Pixma Pro 100 printing dark and muddy

Hi,
I have seen several threads about this and tried to read those over and learn from them first but I'll admit to being so lost.
I've had the printer since August and previously had a PC with Windows 8. Since December, I've been using a Mac. With both computers, though, I always got dark and muddy prints, especially with blues and greens. I have installed drivers and looked for any software updates and the Canon website says I'm up to date. But when I go to print something, in the drop down box there are two options for paper - plain and photo. With my PC, there were a dozen or more options (matte paper, glossy paper, art paper, etc.).
I have installed ICC profiles from Red River Paper, as I did with the PC.
On a previous thread, I saw to go to Canon My Printer and then to settings. I'm guessing that's software? I don't seem to have that on my computer. I looked online and it came up on various software download sites but not the Canon web site. I am leery about installing from one of those web sites so I didn't.
After reading another thread, I went in to PhotoShop and selected a different color space (Adobe 1998).
I apologize for being so lost but apparently I am in need of super-simplified instructions. I cannot seem to figure this out. It's so frustrating and discouraging. I appreciate any help!
Thank you!

First, you must not let the printer set anything. Turn off every bit off control it has. You can do this with the Canon My Printer under the Printer Settings tab. Do you know how? I will guess, yes, for now but if you don't get back to me.
Second, you need to have your photo editor (like Photoshop) handle all the settings and color matching. You know how to do this? I prefer Photoshop.
And lastly, it is essential you get some settings on your monitor that somewhat matches what the printer is printing. Your printer may be doing exactly what you are telling it to do and you have no idea it is, because your monitor is so far off. If you don't do this step, you can forget the other steps. However, there are only a few things that you need to be concerned with. You don't need any fancy extra add-ins to do this. No additional software or gadgets, no spiders or monkeys, etc.
But you must get the gray-scale very close. You need to get the brightness very close and you need the contrast very close.
Most folks set there brightness way too high by default. This presents a big problem when judging prints. You need to judge your prints in good light, preferably daylight. Again they may be correct and you don't know it.
After you do these things you can make adjustments to your prints by just looking at your screen. Because you know the monitor and printer are on the same level. One more point, you can NOT get a printer to print every color exactly the way you saw it. It isn't possible as all colors and adjustments effect all others. My goal is to get the skin tones right. That is what people notice most. Remember you are dealing with two different disciplines here. One is colored light and the other is colored dyes. They are not the same thing.
For instance, I know my Pro-100 tends to print darker than what I see on the monitor (typical for most users). So, I automatically know to set it's prints 1/2 to one stop brighter in Photoshop, in my case. It also prints with a slightly warn tone. Most of the time, with portraits especially, this if OK but sometimes it is not. In that case I adjust the "temp" setting slightly cooler in PS.
All the Canon photo printers I have ever seen have this warm/magenta cast. Canon engineers must prefer this look. It can not be changed. You need to "fix" it in post. You will also likely see a color tint even in your B&W prints. This is normal.
Make sure you have the correct ICC profiles and you are using Canon brand ink and paper until you get good with the printer. Very, very important, otherwise you don't know if the printer is doing exactly what you are telling it to or not. This is a must!
Important to, use the USB connection until everything is right. You are just adding another issue when you try to set up the printing and the wireless all at the same time. Just like using Canon branded products until it is a go. Use a real printer USB cable. Not just any old USB cable.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

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Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer ejects 3.8 in of a 4X6 paper and prints only 2.2 in of the image printing from Photoshop CS6, I'm sure I set everything correctly - what could I be missing?

Using Mac Pro running Snow Leopard (10.6.8) & editing & printing from Photoshop CS 6.
Have new Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer and set it up yesterday. First thing printed was a
document from MS Word (a letter) 8.5 X 11 plain paper - this came out OK. Next I fire up
Photoshop and open a 4 X 6 inch image to do a test print. I set it up in the print dialog as
4X6 paper, Canon's Pro Glossy paper profile, rear tray, standard print quality, Photoshop
manages the color. I load the paper in the rear tray close the covers and hit print. Now, when
it starts to print the printer moves about 3.8 inches of paper out of the printer and starts printing
on the remaining 2.2 inches then spits the paper out. It does this in Photoshop (any image it doesn't
matter), and it does it printing from Capture NX. I have been able to get it to print on the paper
correctly using Apple's Preview program but that that's not going to do me any good. I was on
the phone with Canon tech support for about 2 hours and they were completely puzzled suggesting
I would have to use Canon's printing apps instead to print - that doesn't do me any good either.
I want to be able to print from Photoshop. Any one every heard of this or experienced the same
problem? Thanks JamesD!

Hello again. I recognize that a print is good if you like it and bad if you don't, despite what others might say, but I will at least share my experiences. They might help you or others who are following this thread.
My monitor is calibrated with Spyder 3. Gamma 2.2, 6500K, 83 cd/m^2. Contrast at 50%; brightness about 52%. My monitor lets me choose blackness level - it defaults to 50%.
When I print the test image I linked to above, using Lightroom, with no adjustments, my technical output is as follows:
Middle step wedge shows twelve disticnt steps. Whitest step is color of unprinted paper.
It varies from paper to paper, but I can discerne at least the 252 step and on some papers 253 - telling me I have good highlight detail.
On the black side I discerne 8 or 10, nothing lower. (That sounds like what you are reporting).
Artistically I am very happy how my print looks - nice red strawberries, good flesh tones, etc.
One my monitor, the on-screen image is almost identical to the print. I am surprised that you can see the 2 wedge step on screen at a very similar brightness.
I also checked out this B&W test image:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/bw_printing/bw-test-image-2.html
You are probably aware of this since you are printing with Print Studio Pro, but others may not be.
You can print a series of test images:
find the one that best suits your taste, enter the calibration values in PSP, and save them as a custom setting. Then, each time you want to print recall the setting.
You can do a similar thing in Lightroom using the printer driver and User Templates.
There would be some one-time trial and error to that approach.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

Canon Pixma Pro-100 prints very dark

I see that this is a recuring problem with the Canon Pixma Pro-100, but as nothing I have found online helps I'm asking and are hoping that someone can solve this problem for me.
Just picked up a Pixma Pro-100 today, and installed it on my 2011 iMac 27" (Yosemite) with downloaded drivers from Canon's website to be sure i have the latest ones. I also checked the printers firmware but that's the latest at 1.100. Wether I'm printing via Lightroom or Photoshop; or via Canon Print Studio Pro, My Image Garden, or via LR / PS directly; with- or without PS as color manager; the prints turns out to be much to dark.
I have to set an exposure of +2/3 in LR to be anywhere close to getting the same result as on the screen. I'm also careful to select the right ICC profiles for the correct paper. My monitor is calibrated with an Spyder4pro and I also re-calibrated it during this process to see if that helped.
Well. Long story short; the prints are to dark. So i borrowed my wife's 2013 MacBook Pro (Yosemite) Spyder4pro, and installed the latest drivers from Canon. Again; on this machine the prints are also to dark with about +2/3 to correct for the printer to do something that looks like the monitor. Both monitors are also set to about 30% brightness.
I also have access to an Epson Stylus Photo R3000 and the prints from this comes out much brighter.
Sadly I see that many others also have the same problem. So; here's the question. How do I fix this? Do i have to return the printer again and get a refund? Because this is clearly not good enough.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hello again. I recognize that a print is good if you like it and bad if you don't, despite what others might say, but I will at least share my experiences. They might help you or others who are following this thread.
My monitor is calibrated with Spyder 3. Gamma 2.2, 6500K, 83 cd/m^2. Contrast at 50%; brightness about 52%. My monitor lets me choose blackness level - it defaults to 50%.
When I print the test image I linked to above, using Lightroom, with no adjustments, my technical output is as follows:
Middle step wedge shows twelve disticnt steps. Whitest step is color of unprinted paper.
It varies from paper to paper, but I can discerne at least the 252 step and on some papers 253 - telling me I have good highlight detail.
On the black side I discerne 8 or 10, nothing lower. (That sounds like what you are reporting).
Artistically I am very happy how my print looks - nice red strawberries, good flesh tones, etc.
One my monitor, the on-screen image is almost identical to the print. I am surprised that you can see the 2 wedge step on screen at a very similar brightness.
I also checked out this B&W test image:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/bw_printing/bw-test-image-2.html
You are probably aware of this since you are printing with Print Studio Pro, but others may not be.
You can print a series of test images:
find the one that best suits your taste, enter the calibration values in PSP, and save them as a custom setting. Then, each time you want to print recall the setting.
You can do a similar thing in Lightroom using the printer driver and User Templates.
There would be some one-time trial and error to that approach.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

New Canon Pixma Pro-100 printing with streaks on backgrounds

Hello. I just purchased the printer last week. I'm operating on a MacBook Air. I typically use LightRoom and Photoshop.
I'm a professional photographer and recently look a class at ICP and learned how to print there. I was shocked at how beautiful the prints were. This was using an Epson in a classroom.
I did my research and talked to other photographers and decided the Pro-100 would be perfect for me, and so far, it is.
I've had trouble with magenta casts when using LightRoom. Switched to PhotoShop and got better results. But some prints, especially those with a simple, plain background, faint lines appear across the page.
Here's an example. The lines appear top to bottom every 1/4 inch or so:
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Call Canon at 1-866-261-9362, Monday - Friday 10:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. ET (excluding holidays).
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

Pixma Pro 100 printing setup error

I'm new to printing, I just got my Pixma Pro and so far have had terrible results. 1/10 times I get beautiful prints, the rest are terrible, washed out and like they have a grey film on them. I think its either a colour management or paper management issue. I'm trying to use 8.5 x 11 " Canon Pixma Photo Paper with Matte finish. I'm printing with Photoshop. I have the same problem whether I click on Photoshop handle colour or Printer handle colour, but the 1/10 nice prints were acheived manually setting the paper to "glossy" under the print settings menu in Photoshop CS6 rather than selecting Matte which is what the obvious choice is.
When I chose Photoshop handles colour management I get the same grey prints no matter what Printer Profile I select. Though it seems most logical to chose Matte Canon Pro - 100 <LU> 3 Photopaper because thats what I'm using, again the 1/10 nice prints were acheived selecting Photopaper Pro 3 <PT> Platinum.
I don't understand how any of this works. The picture I am trying to print is here, nice blues and greens. http://www.flickr.com/photos/27816471@N06/9076033417/in/set-72157634198994950 it just looks grey and washed out when I print, sort of like the printer is 1/2 out of ink but it says its not. Blacks and greys are good.
what do I do? I know its operator error but I can't re-produce any of the environment to get decent prints from this so i'm considering junking or returning. really dissapointed.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

It is very difficult to determine which side of the matte paper is the printing side.
Before you decide you have printer/printing problem get some glossy photo paper and try with that.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

Pixma Pro-100 Printer

Can any one please advise if they have had difficulty getting colour cast free B&W prints from the Pro-100 when printing an image file that has been converted to B&W using Photoshop CS5 even when using Canon paper (Paper Plus Glossy II) and the correct profile.
I even have tried printing the image after Gray Scale conversion in Photoshop (output for printing as an sRGB image) which removes all colour information from the file and I still got a sepia toned print.
Even with colour prints I noticed that at default settings the prints were slightly warmer than they should have been in the white areas of the image.
I have tried printing with Photoshop managing the colours and the printer colour management turned off and with the printer managing the colours with the B&w box ticked both from Photoshop and using the Canon Studio Print Pro software supplied with the machine.
One reviewer on Amazon states that he found it impossible to get a tone free B&W image even after trying all the tweaks to the machine that a Canon tech of ten years experience could suggest.
I realize that it is possible to mostly correct for the colour cast using the colour management sliders in the printer driver but that of course negates the objective of printing using the correct profiles and the settings may have to be changed for every paper type.

Thank you for the reply to my enquiry.
I have corresponded with Red River Paper in Texas on this issue as they were one of two professional the reviewers of the Pro-100. For their tests they printed on Red River paper using their profiles and Canon ink. They report that no perceptable colour hue appeared in the trials they made when printing black and white prints with the printer's colour management set to neutral. Rereading their review of the Pro-100 it is evident that they probably used a colour image and let the printer software convert it to B&W.
The observation made by one of two professional reviewers of the printer that I have read so far is that the use of matte photopaper for this printer has generally been less satisfactory than for gloss or lustre in their experience and that art papers are pretty much out of contention as shadow detail suffers amongst other things. Red River paper however didn't report problems using a range of their papers and profiles.
Are you suggesting using a B&W image generated in camera by the camera's software from the RGB colour output of the sensor as the image source for a B&W print or are you suggesting using a colour image and letting the printer software convert it. Whilst such methods might produce a more tone free result (if say a Canon camera was used to generate the image as a jpeg) this is definitely not the choice a serious amature or professional photographer would normally make as the options for enhancement of the image during the conversion process with Photoshop are the main artistic reasons for choosing a B&W image over a colour one in the first instance.
As I explained in my previous post one of the B&W images I trialed extensively had been Gray Scale converted using Photoshop CS5 prior to output as an RGB file for printing selecting the printer to mamge the colours as well as printing it as a Gray Scale dot gain 25% file (using Photoshop to manage the colours). To my understanding In both cases the image should have no colour information present in it at all only shades of gray, however the prints were still noticably sepia toned.
Also in my earlier post I raised the issue of a noticable warm cast to the normally white areas of a colour image when printing on Canon Paper Plus Glossy II using the correct media settings and profile for that paper.To remove it required a colour management setting of -5 Magenta and -10 yellow. I would have thought that the printer should be accurate for whites provided my monitor is calibrated as well which it is.
I seems strange to me that you would recommend the purchase of the Pro-10 printer to get colour cast free B&W images as Canon designers seem to have gone to the trouble of using additional grey inks in the place of primary colours in this their latest model of their range of dye based printers. In fact I recall during their release to the market that a Canon representative made the comment that he could see very little advantage now to choosing pigment over dye ink printers now that the Canon Chromalife 100 ink system had been perfected.
Please can you advise whether you have actually tested the Pro-100 printer and noticed this problem with B&W images as I'm really keen to get to baottom of this problem.

I just received an OEM copy of Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 with my Canon Pixma Pro 100 Printer. What exactly is OEM. Is it a full version? Can I transfer files between different computers?

@

OEM means "Original Equipment Manufacturer", or in your case, Canon (not Adobe) is providing the software. It is identical to what you can buy from Adobe. It is the full version (that's the only version of Lightroom that exists)
Transfer files between different computers ... this is not a function of Lightroom. Lightroom neither helps nor prevents you from transferring files from one computer to another.

I purchased a Pixma Pro-100. My prints do not reflect the edited images from CS6/LR5.

I just got a Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer. I'm running CS6 and LR5. My monitors are calibrated, my color space is Adobe RGB (1998). I want the Photoshop /LR to manage my color. I (believe) am using the correct profile for the Canon paper (Pro Luster). However, my prints do not reflect the edited versions I am viewing on my monitors. The colors are darker, dull, a bit on the reddish side, and not as vivid as what I am expecting. Is there anyone out there who can guide me to the proper way to set the up my printer and color space? I this is very confusing to me.

You don't need any additional gadgets to set up your monitor(s) and the printer. Mostly you will just frustrate yourself and waste a lot of ink and paper. Stop wasting your time with them, too.
You do need to get three things set carefully. You need the brightness, the contrast and the grey-scale set right for the printer.
Big point to remember you are dealing with two completely different types of color. One is light and the other is dyes. They will never match exactly except for maybe one or two colors at a time. I generally shoot for flesh tones as that is what people notice mostly.
Always check the details and never let the printer do any color managing. All Canon printers I have worked with have a reddish bias. You can not or at least it is very difficult to get rid of it. Canon engineers seem to prefer a warm tone in their printers.
I curently use three of the Canon Pro printers form the 9000, 9500 II amd the 100. All are great printers. But right now what you are seeing and what you are sending to the printer is different. These need to match or you need to know what to adjust in PS to make them match. Don't use LR to print, it isn't as good as PS and it will be different. If you must, stick to either/or but not both. I prefer PS.
Always shoot RAW and use ACR to convert in either LR or PS but I always print from PS.
Let me know how you get along.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV, EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 85mm f1.2 L II USM, EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II,
Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO, Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

Canon Pixma pro 100 Ink how to identify the black cartridges when label was accidently removed

I just started putting a new Canon Pixma Pro 100 printer together- I was not thinking and removed two of the grey (light), and grey cartridges labels. Now I do not know which to put in the slots, I cannot see any gradient by holding them up to the light, and the actual cartridge is not marked. I am soooo dumb, any suggestions.

You got a 50/50 chance. Go for it!
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Canon pixma pro 100

Hi guys,
I've just received my new canon pixma pro 100 printer & I'm having problems setting up. When powered up the printer instantly made a grinding noise. Switched it off a few times but the print head holder failed to slide along the rails. All stoppers & tapes have been removed so nothing to obstruct the set up process.
Can anyone help or had similar issues?
Thanks in advance.

You are possitive there is no packing or tape left inside? 100% sure?
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

So, CAN I turn off the printer's color management? Pixma Pro-100.

So, I am trying to turn off the color management function for the Pro-100...
On my Windows desktop, I use Photoshop to print with Canson Rag 210, color profile installed, allow photoshop to manage colors and print a beautiful, perfect print with the Mark 9000. Now, I have the Pixma Pro-100 and using the exact same settings, I print wirelessly with my laptop, and I get these dark, red/orange hued prints that are atrocious.
I should mention the same exact photograph printed between setups ALWAYS prints better with the Mark 9000 and my desktop. However, when using my laptop and the Mark 9000... Crap. Laptop and Pixma Pro-100... Crap. What is my MAC doing that my desktop is not?! How can identical settings print such drastic results? Photoshop does warn me (newer version on my MAC vs. Windows) to turn off the printer's color management in the printer's settings, but I do not see that option. Maybe I'm missing it? How do I do that? I'm thinking it may help!

Have you tried printing from the MacBook using Canon Print Studio Pro or letting printer manage colors? I know this doesn't specifically answer your question, but PSP is designed to handle the PS/printer interface.
Download PSP 1.3.5 from the Canon support site.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/printers_multifunction/pixma_pro_series/pixma_pro_100...
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

PIXMA Pro-100 and Windows 8.1 Help Please....

Hello,
I will try to be concise
Spent all day on the phone for this without the same answer twice *sigh*.
I have been told and I have read over and over that YES, the Pro-100 WILL absolutely work with Windows 8.1.
Then...I find out that it's possible that it will NOT work unless I have 8.1 Pro Pack.
Is this true?
IOW...Is there anyone using the PIXMA Pro-100 with Windows 8.1 *without *Pro Pack just fine?
I ordered the printer yesterday before being told about this, and need to know if I have to cancel my order before it ships.
Thank you very much for any and all help.
Sherri
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Sherri,
I have been using the Pro-100 along with three of the printers it has replaced, the 9000, 9500 and 9500 II since Win 8.1 came out. They all work and work well with WIndoze 8 or 8.1. I use Photoshop and Lightroom so the OS really doesn't matter. If you do not have either of these, I will suggest you check into Photoshop Elements as an option.
With one of these mentioned programs you do not need any thing additional. Including the Canon software that comes with the Pro-100. But a couple of Canon's software is pretty good like the printing on a DVD. But PS, or PSE, is where it at for photos that are possibile by the Pro-100.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV, EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 85mm f1.2 L II USM, EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II,
Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO, Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

Unable to center a print on 8/5 x 11 inch paper with Pixma Pro 100

I've been using a Pixma Pro 100 for just 3 weeks. No matter what I do or try, prints on 8.5 by 11 inch paper using the manual feed tray are not centered. In portrait orientation, the margin on the leading edge short edge is slightly less no matter what size the image. For example, if the leading edge margin is 1/4 inch, the opposite margin is 3/8 inch. If the leading edge is 7/8 inch, the opposite margin is 1 inch dead. The long side margins are equal. I'm using Photoshop Elements 9.0. I've tried printing out of the edit space, where "center print" is an option, but I realize now that this just centers the image in the window representing the print, that it does not center the image on the page. I have not notice this problem with smaller size paper, such as 4 x 6. Any suggestions? I have not tried loading the paper in the internal or "rear" tray because I thought the paper path with the manual feed would be straighter. Besides, I'd like to be able to use the manual feed with even larger paper and get centered prints.
P.S. I just tried selecting "borderless" print in PSE 9 with a custom image size smaller than the paper, e.g. 7 x 9.8 inches, and crop to fit. Just looking at the preview, this seems to have resulted in equal margins left and right, top and bottom (the L-R margins are different than the T-B margins of course). I was unable to make any of the necessary adjustments in Canon Print Studio Pro - I could not figure out how to unlink the height and width of the image.

"... that is a remarkably unhelpful and condescending response."
Condescending or not, however, it is still most likely PSE that accomplishs this task. I don't use PSE anymore since I switched to Lightroom. Hence the suggestion to find a PSE forum.
But it is the software that let's you move or put the photos where you want them to print.
A PSE forum may be able to show you how to do this. Example below, if I want two 5x7s in oppoiste corners, it is done easily in LR.
If I wanted one photo centered it is a simple click to get the adjustment "squares" and move the photo. (Bottom picture)
BTW, I am not worried.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

I have a Pixma Pro 100. Does anyone know what printer setting I would use to print on 11 x 14 paper?

I'm trying to make 11 x 14 prints but I'm unsure what what size to set it as in Photoshop. I'm using Epson paper which works fine with the printer I just don't know what settings to use.
Thanks.

Go into the OnScreen Manual and search for page P010. That will give you instructions for custom paper sizes.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

Canon Pixma Pro 100 won't print

Hopefully someone can help. I just purchased a new Pixma Pro 100 and diligently set it up using a USB connection to my laptop (Windows 8, 64 bit). The printer printed the alignment page fine, but won't print anything else (including a Test Page from the device Properties box). I immediately get an on scree error message when trying to print.
Any thoughts out there?

Unplug the printer for 15 minutes. Unplug it from everything. Don't use My Image Garden. Use Easy Photo Print EX (came with your printer) or some other program.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV, EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 85mm f1.2 L II USM, EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II,
Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO, Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

Pixma Pro 100 printing dark and muddy

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