Plugging in redundant on-board power supply

HI,
Is it possible for me to plug in and turn on on-board redundant power supply for a 4402 WLC that is already online and in production without any disruption to Wireless users and APs attached to that same controller?
Thanks, Pat.

That power supply should be hot swappable. But as with anything having to do with power, you are better served by taking the system down. that way you can avoid any arcing.
HTH,
Steve

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Any time I make a purchase on one device, say my Mac Book, the items show as "waiting" in the downloads area of my iPad and iPhone. Once I plug those devices in to a power supply, they begin to download.
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Don't let the computer KYB! We'll solve the problem.
First, however, I believe that there is another number in the model of the computer. Once I have the full model I will see what I can do to help you.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
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++++++++++++++++++
**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
I am not an HP employee.

Power supply clicks twice when plugged in.

I'm new to Mac however I've been a certified PC tech for many years. I recently purchased my first Mac. It worked fine but needed to have the fans cleaned out. I removed the components and power supply just as I would have done for any PC (I was using heel straps and working on an ESD safe workbench). Upon cleaning the components I reassembled the tower (no left over pieces) and heard two clicks coming from the power supply when I plugged it in and when I unplugged it. After troubleshooting the components individually, and still hearing the two clicks I decided to remove the power supply and test it independently. When I plug in the power supply w/o being attached to the tower I still get the same two clicks (making a relay opening and closing sound) no fans or LEDs come on. Falling back on my years in the industry and common since I decided that the power supply needed to be replaced. After receiving the new (not refurbished) power supply and installing it I'm still getting the same two clicks. At this point due to frustration I break down and call the pros. I called four Mac repair facilities (three third parties and The Mac Store) with a question "is it normal for a G5 power supply that is not connected to the logic board to make a relay open and closing clicking sound" and didn't get much help. Since I'm new to Mac I'm unfamiliar with the characteristics of the hardware. I know that if I were to plug in a normal PC power supply w/o the logic board nothing would happen, but I was told by two of the Mac techs that a Mac power supply would still make the same relay noise w/o being attached to the logic board. The problem is that I have now dropped a fair amount of money in this G5 and I have nothing to show for my investment and I don't know where to go from here. If two of the Mac techs were right then I need to send the new power supply back for an exchange, or if the other two Mac techs were right I need to replace the logic board.
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Dear Brian,
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First off, the kid is grounded - second, which model do you have? Have you tried resetting the SMU? Resetting the SMU can resolve some computer issues such as not starting up, not displaying video, sleep issues, fan noise issues, and so on. If your computer still exhibits these types of issues even after you've restarted the computer, try resetting the SMU. To reset the SMU on one of these iMacs:
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Let us know if this helps,

Power supply or logic board failure

First time post, long time Mac user (since 1983). My older iMac G5 1.8 GHz Power PC (ALS) occasionally fails to start when I press the power button or the internal power button on the logic board. The only solution is to unplug/plug the external power cable where it meets the power supply housing (not at the outlet). None of the capacitors seem to be bulging on the logic board, LED1 always lights up, LED2-4 fail when there is a problem but are normal after unplug/plug routine. Noticed that there was no internal Lithium battery where one is supposed to be, but this has been the case for 5 years, so this is probably not the issue. I suspect the power supply. It's an old iMac with plenty of leg left and will be used as a second computer in the home. Any ideas? I don't have a volt meter, but am willing to get one if the test points are easy to get to (I'm not an electronics wizard).

Welcome To Discussions - If resetting the SMU, which is in effect what you are doing, solves the problem and the caps look ok, then the prime suspect would be the power supply unit. They are not expensive, check out [synaptech.com] for prices or[welovemacs.com] whcih will also give you instructions on how to replace it.
It would probably be a good idea to replace the battery it's CR2032 3 volt lithium button, easily obtainable at Radio Shack or similar places.
Let us know how you make out,

Plugging in redundant on-board power supply

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