PMG4 dual 1ghz wont start up

I'm working on a MDD dual 1ghz. It wasn't starting up...the power light would come on for a second then turn off, then the fans would start spinning. after a couple of seconds it went into wind tunnel mode.
we ordered a replacement power supply, which i put in today. and it still wont start up. same problem. I checked the voltage on pin 24 (with the computer off as it says in the troubleshooting guide) and it was 0 volts, not 12.
I suppose it's possible the new power supply was DOA, but does anyone know if the logic board might either be the reason its not booting, or if the logic board could kill the power supply somehow?
Mac OS X (10.4)

I have the same situation with a single 1Ghz MDD. No chime, power to all fans and HD is ok, but front light only stays on for a couple of seconds and after about 10 seconds, cooling fan shifts into high gear. No video either. I also tried another power supply, but the same thing happens. I guess the question is: 1. Is it possible that both power supplies are bad? 2. Is the motherboard bad? or 3. is the processor bad. Since I don't have another MDD handy, I can't play 'switch the parts" to test each. What else can I do? Can I use the known good power supply from an earlier G4 to test? or are the contacts wrong?
-RicK

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IBook G3 wont start

My iBook G3 12.1screen, 2002 model dual usb wont start up, it worked the other day but now wont, the battery is full, i have also tried another one, there is no reset button on it, i have zapped the pram any ideas

iBooks with the logic board problem have been known to work intemittently. After leaving it sit overnight, does squeezing the case to the left of the trackpad allow you to start up and work for a bit as long as you keep the pressure on it there? If so, you may want to consider trying the shim fix suggested by John Sawyer in the Apple Discussions iBook G3 (Dual USB) Displays Forum:
[Y]ou can often fix this yourself by removing the iBook's bottom housing, and placing a shim of any sort, about 1mm to 1.5mm thick, onto the raised square on the bottom shield. I use a Scotch mounting square--you can get them in hardware stores and many grocery stores. When you reinstall the bottom case, it will press against this shim, which will press against the graphics chip, and may allow the chip to come into better contact with the logic board.
John Sawyer
CJS Macintosh Repair
Instructions for removing the lower case:
iFixit.com
If the shim fix doesn't work (or you're leery of trying it), DT & T Computer Services in Fremont, California offers the cheapest repair I've found. They have a six-month warranty on the repair.
Once you get it fixed, try never to pick it up by the left front corner alone. The theory is that picking it up by the left front corner alone can contribute to logic board failure when the case flexes, causing the graphics chip to come loose from the logic board. If you're picking it up in your left hand (as I often do mine), pick it up in the center under the trackpad.
Good luck.

I have a powermac dual g5 2.0 that wont start up.When I plug it in I get the click from the power supply. When I hit the start button, the white led on the front panel lights up and stays lit. No whir sound from the hard drive or the fan. No lights on the

I have a powermac dual g5 2.0 that wont start up.When I plug it in I get the click from the power supply. When I hit the start button, the white led on the front panel lights up and stays lit. No whir sound from the hard drive or the fan. No lights on the motherboard

The click usually indicates a big problem, but...
How to reset the SMU/PMU on a Power Mac G5 (Late 2004) or Power Mac G5 (Late 2005) ...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1436
Earlier G3, G4, G5 models...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1939
Might be time to replace the PRAM Battery, 4 years is close to their lifespan, far less if ever without AC power, & can cause strange startup problems...
See which one your G5 has...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/CR2032/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/

Quicksilver dual 1GHz 2002 powers off for no reason.

My Quicksilver dual 1GHz 2002 powers off for no reason. Could it be because of overheating? I can run it for an hour or 2 and then it simply powers off as if the electricity went off. No warning, no process. I can wait 30 min and power it up for maybe 10 min and the same thing. Does anyone know what may be causing this? There are some logic bd problems too. It will not shut down. I must hold the power button down until it goes off, and to start it up, I must unplug it f power then replug it into the wall to start it up. Yes it is time for a new one, but this one would be nice as a 2nd Mac.

Hello! Look in apps>utilities>console and see if it's throwing a crash log that might narrow down the problem. It could be a weak power supply that's failing when it gets warmed up or a fan that has quit. Tom

IBook wont start up!!! please help

Hiya Everyone,
My iBook G3 wont start-up. It was fine yesterday but today when i turned tried to turn it on it was completely unresponsive.
When presing the power button nothing happens, no hard drive spin up, no noises...nothing.
This ever happened to anyone before?
All help greatly appreciated.
Daniel.

It sounds like you may be having logic board problems. Enough dual USB G3 iBooks suffered from this problem that Apple began the iBook Logic Board Repair Extension Program in January of 2004. Check out the FAQ page and if the symptoms look familiar (in other words, any of these things happened before it quit working entirely), give Apple a call. If your iBook qualifies, it's a free fix.
If you are past the three-year time limit, try calling and asking for Customer Relations (NOT Customer Service--they can't help you) and ask them to please make an exception to the three-year limit in your case.
If the answer from Apple is absolutely, positively, "NO!" DT & T Computer Services will do the repair for $195 plus shipping to and from Fremont, California. They offer a six-month warranty on the repair. They also do free diagnostics, in case the logic board is not the problem.
Or maybe now is a good time to be thinking about a new MacBook? They do look nice.

G5 wont start

I gave a dual processor G5 Mac Pro that wont start. This happened after it had sat unplugged fro a prolonged time. Now when I push the startup button, the power light goes on momentarily, there is a click, and then the power light goes off. I have replaced the 3.6V battery and pressed the small setet button on the logic board. Still same problem.

Firstly there are PowerMac G5s, and then there are Intel (non-PowerPC) Mac Pro.
Mac Pro came out Aug 2006 1,1
http://www.apple.com/support/macpro
http://www.apple.com/support/powermac

Quicksilver G4 Dual 1ghz power supply...

I'm pretty sure that the power supply in my Quicksilver G4 Dual 1ghz is going. Initially, I was only getting the familiar bong for startup, but nothing else. I then noted that the fan on the GForce Ti card wasn't spinning, nor the fan on the optical drive. I removed the Ti card, my second hard drive, and two RAM chips; the computer started, then shut down. I pushed the power button, it finally started. The fan on the optical drive is still not spinning (still plugged in though.)
I did buy a new motherboard battery, put it in, and followed the process of resetting the CUDA/PMU. I did that before doing the above so I know the battery is fine.
That's why I'm almost sure it's the power supply.
So, my question is, where and how do I go about purchasing a new power supply for this computer? Any help and/or suggestions would be most appreciated.

Some of the symptoms might desribe a logic boarrd, cpu or Power Supply issue. This article might assist:
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.asp?p=420908&seqNum=4&rl=1
If you are extermly confident with a multi meter you might try the following procedure. However, be sure to use appropriate ESD procedures as "static" can kill your machine and be sure to take care as electircal power can kill you.
PS verfication:
1. Power Mac G4 (QuickSilver/QuickSilver 2002) (see Figure 3): Connect the black lead of the volt meter to pin 11 of the 22pin power supply connector. Connect the red lead of the volt meter to pin 22 of the power supply connector. The volt meter should measure approximately +25V. If you do not get a reading of +25V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step. If you do measure +25V on pin 22, the power supply is likely OK. Go to the next step for further verification.
Start up the computer by pressing the power button on the front of the computer. Note: Verify that the power cable is plugged into connector J30. If the computer starts up normally, the power supply is OK. If the computer does not start up, go to the next step.
2. Check to see if the power supply fan is spinning. If it is not, go to the next step.
3. Connect the black lead of the volt meter to pin 16 of the power supply connector for AGP and PCI models or pin 11 for Gigabit Ethernet/Digital Audio/QuickSilver/QuickSilver 2002 models. Connect the red lead of the volt meter to pin 1 of the power supply connector. The volt meter should measure approximately +3.3V.
If you do not get a reading of +3.3V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step.
4. Connect the black lead of the volt meter to pin 16 of the power supply connector for AGP and PCI models or pin 11 for Gigabit Ethernet/DIgital Audio/QuickSilver/QuickSilver 2002 models. Connect the red lead of the volt meter to pin 4 of the power supply connector. The volt meter should measure approximately +5V. If you do not get a reading of +5V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step.
5. Measure the voltage of pin 10 on the power supply connector. The voltage should measure approximately +12V. If you do not get a reading of +12V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step.
6.The testing is complete. You have just verified that the power supply is not the cause of the “No apparent power” symptom.

My G5 wont start

After i upgraded my OS from tiger to leopard i had alot of problems like my creative suite CS2 wont start and crashes i remove it all as the guide said with all the files on the library and user and i reinstall it again and it works for few days and then i empty the trash and after i shut it down it wont start again, i have now the apple logo with the loading sign down of it and it stays for a while and then the fan sound stars to get loader and loader and thats it, can any one HELP?

John,
They're about $50 and up. Here's a laundry list of options... the preferred one here seems to be the Sonnet Tempo 2-port card. I don't have a SATA card installed, so I can't really advise you much more on which one to choose. I will say, though, that some cards/configurations have issues with waking from deep sleep, if you normally enable sleep on your Mac and it's important to you.
Gary
1GHz DP G4 Quicksilver 2002, 400MHz B&W rev.2 G3, Mac SE30 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 5G iPod, Epson 2200 & R300 & LW Select 360 Printers, Epson 3200 Scanner

I updated and now safari just wont start!

so heres the deal:
ibook 1ghz 14", 512 ram, 30gb, X 10.3.9.
So I updated to the latest security update, and now safari wont start - the icon just bounces once in the dok and dissapears.
I tried resetting the application bit using the chmod command, but to no avail.
So i redownloaded the 1.2 update, with no sucess.
I deleted safari (doh!) and tried to install from safari 1.0, but apparently that is not possible to install under my version of os x.
Im really reaching the end of my tether now - all my bookmarks etc are in safari - and whilst I can use the other multitude of browsers on my system Id rather be on safari (excuse the pun).
Please please please help me!!!
Edit: Just tried to use software update, and that wont launch either :S
Edit: just found a related article after looking around the boards - please forgive me for not looking hard enough initially.
And for anyone having the same problem, check out: Saxman, "Post Security Update: NO Safari, Mail, Sftw Update, ...", 02:24am Aug 17, 2005 CDT
Edit: Well I tried the steps outlined in the above link - with no luck.
So I guess im still stuck & on checking them Im afraid to say that many of my apps wont launch, mail, safari, limewire, Software update to name but a few...
any thoughts?
Edit: Well I guess I just didnt pay enough attention to the advice in the post linked above.
Where the instruction tells you to remove the webkit from within the system folder's library I was actually removing it from the global library on the root of the hard drive! :P
Ah well, all is fixed now - and infact my ibook seems to be running faster, and safari is definately running faster now
Tally Ho!

It's not only Safari, it's every programm! The function is called "Resume" and will launch back the applications in the same way as you leaved them.
You can change it back in
System Preferences > General > Restore windows when quitting and re-opening apps

Mac wont start if ADC is not Connected??

I have a G4 Quicksilver Dual processor, with Tiger OSX installed on it. The video card installed has a ADC and VGA connector. I recently wanted to change from the ADC monitor to the VGA(new PC Monitor). But when the apple display is not plugged in the computer wont start.
Why
I have done all the system preference stuff and changing secondary to primary and even swapped video cards with another machine which i know works with the VGA connection.
Please Help
Cheers

I do not believe it's the Graphic Card, I think it would need either a new Logic Board or Power supply.
Which card is it exactly, some can run both monitors at once.
And there may be a slight possibility that a Keyboard like this with a "Power Key" at the top right corner may work to start it...
http://tinyurl.com/5s28kla

Help with setup of G4 dual 1ghz AGP system

Hi,
I bought a stripped down G4 dual 1ghz machine off eBay.
When it powers up, there is no beep and the display does not fire up. I have tried a variety of video cards (PCI and AGP) that I have hanging around.
What I have:
10,000rpm 15gig scsi drive and adapter card
7200rpm 80 gig ide drive and adapter card
Original cd/dvd drive
512meg sdram
When I power on, the fans and drive power up. A red light on the motherboard is on. The usb attached keyboard does not seem to have any power (the little light doesn't turn on when I press caps lock)
I am trying to install the operating system. The install disk is in the drive. I have tried resetting the PRAM and PMU with no results.
I am kind of new to the Mac world. Anyone have a starting point for me?

Disconnect the drives, that part will come later. Concentrate on getting the machine to chime and light up the screen. The chime is generated in software when at least 1K of RAM is working and the processor can execute an instruction test without getting lost. It should be able to chime and light up the screen to show the flashing question mark with no drives.
Remove and re-seat anything with a connector on it. Use anti-static procedures, especially when handling RAM and Processor. The Dual 1 GHz uses the 167 MHz Bus, so it needs DDR 333/PC2700 memories. Were you thinking of buying more memory? getting another module now would give you more stuff that is "Known good".
The single 1.25 GHz processors are simpler, run at the faster (167 MHz) Bus speed, and are a little cheaper if you need to buy on a "Known good" processor for testing.
There is a G4 diagnostics CD image available for download, but you need it to chime and light up the screen first.
The 10.4 CD has Apple System profiler available, and its reports include a "diagnostics" report.
almost forgot: You need 3.2 Volts out of that 3.6 Volt 1/2 AA battery. You can try removing it for testing, but you will need one with at least 3.2 Volts for daily use.
Message was edited by: Grant Bennet-Alder

Satellite A660 wont start again until i turn to safe mode

Just purchase toshiba Satellite A660: i tell the story to compensate closely to my answer, hopefully ..
I just purchase it new, run the insallation program for first use. When its up and running just within that day i noticed that it start to hang up when i hooked external drive for some program installation (adobe lightroom).
Its still fine but when i turn it off, it wont start again until i did turn to safe mode so that i could back up some of the files and run the recovery again.
This time on 64bit. When its finish its process, it works well for just a couple of hours.
It fell faster now thou, maybe because its on 64bit? ( any recommendation whether its 32 or 64bit) specs: i5 , 4ram, 1g ddcatd graphics , win7 home premium, ..
Now, when i turn it off it never start back again windows say.. start up repair. ..
I did let it run since this morning until now still they cant find whats the problem (i'm refering the loptop) .
So any idea on whats goin ?

> It fell faster now thou, maybe because its on 64bit? ( any recommendation whether its 32 or 64bit) specs: i5 , 4ram, 1g ddcatd graphics , win7 home premium, ..
64bit Operating system is better if your notebook supports 4GB or more RAM.
Why? Because Win 32bit recognizes max 3.2GB even if more RAM is available.
This is 32bit limitation; no matter what OS it is; Linux, Win XP, Vista, Win7 etc
This is the reason why 64bit OS are so popular in the last time
Regarding the OS issue;
I recommend running a HDD recovery again... this means you should reinstall the OS usign the Toshiba recovery option;
Press F8 while powering up the notebook, Choose Repair my Computer, -> HDD recovery

After Effects just bounces in the dock but wont start

Hi all,
Just installed CS4 production studio under Snow Leopard. All works well and updated using the Adobe Updater. All apps are fine except AE which just bounces in the dock a few times and then stops. I read that this could be because Rosetta was not installed. I installed Rosetta from the Snow Leopard DVD and still nothing. Have restarted 3 times just in case (I also read that several restarts may be required to get it to work), but still nothing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Dave

OK... Now I feel like Scott of the Antartic writing in his journal before the inevitable... I am writing this purely to help anyone else with the same issue to resolve it without the pain that I am still experiencing. Hopefully the last entry will read "all solved" and not "I am about to pop outside... I may be some time..."
After using CS2 for the bulk of my work I thought I'd try and get this solved once and for all, especially as we have a DVCPROHD project coming up and need CS4 to do it.
OK... The so now I have the suite running, except Premiere is running under at trial without the presets and the updates fail when installing. Contacted support this week, they wont re-open the original case because it has been over a month. Fair enough, new case.
The adobe guy takes control of my machine, deactivates it, then from Finder deletes lots of folders. He then asks me to re-install the products. I do this (2 hours later) and run Premiere and it appears to work with presets. I look a bit closer and notice that under the help menu of Premiere Register, Deactivate and Updates are all greyed out. This is not the case in the other products of the suite. OK, so not a major deal but does imply something is not installed right. I run the Adobe Updater, Premiere updates, but AE, PS and several updates fail.
Call back to support. This time the Adobe guy takes control of my machine suggests I deactivate the suite, run the un-install and then download and run the CS3 Clean script and re-install. I do all this. Another 2 hours later feeding discs into the machine... and... Premiere looks fine, presets all there... but wait for it... AFTER EFFECTS JUST BOUNCES IN THE DOCK BUT WONT START.
3rd call back to support and ask for the issue to be escalated. This is difficult and I have to cause a fuss to realise that this problem is the same one that has been hanging around for months and that I am not prepared to spend more hours removing every trace of Adobe from my machine and re-installing - this doesn't work. The support technician asks me to delete a hidden folder that has all the Adobe patches in it, manually download the AE 9.0.2 update and install it. It installs but AE wont start. I explain that I've had enough and want the problem escalated.
I finally get a call back from a 2nd level engineer this morning. After explaining the that AE wont start and then answering the question "why is this a problem for you!" we do some quick troubleshooting. This time I have to pull out the network cable, turn off Airport, create a new user account, log on to it and then see if AE runs. Which it does. Within seconds we get launched into the pre-determined script, "if it runs under another user account then there is nothing wrong with the applications and I should call Apple". After being patronised for a further 5 mins I had to PROVE to the guy that it was also possible that the fault was Adobes. I also know the moment I phone Apple, the response will be "Call Adobe".
The only example I could give him at the time was to image a piece of software I had written that allocated memory based on the screen resolution (this is a user preference) and if my code was badly written and crashed when encountering a screen resolution bigger than my code was expecting. OK, is that Apple's fault, no it is my code. Will it run under one user and not another, yes it will. There are a million other posibilities. Some I agree could be Apple's, but equally some could be Adobes and the big fat fob off as soon as you can is terrible.
I have also since realised since leaving this call with the technician, that:
1) This is a brand new iMac and the Adobe Suite was the 1st piece of 3rd party software installed on it.
2) The iMac is for video editing and nothing else.
3) This was working without presets before the Adobe guys deleted all these files and asked me to re-install. It is more likely that they have deleted something they should not have rather than the a bug in the OS. A bug in the OS is still possible but I suspect the problem is with a rogue bit of installation code from Adobe.
Finally incase anyone from Adobe is reading this:
I have paid thousands of pounds for this software.
I have been unable to use it for months.
A problem like this should be gold dust for you. Here is the chance to get to the bottom of an issue that several people are having, understand the mechanics of what is going wrong. Write a KB article as well as a patch and this would save the time/money and effort of an awful lot of people (including your own).
As a short thought experiment I would like everyone at Adobe to image the following:
You pay £1,000 of your own money for a tool to do your work on the promise that you can make this money back in productivity gains, new business, etc.
The tool you use every day to make a living won't work. For the benefit of the experiment, imagine this is your email client, web browser or case management tool.
You have no IT group to replace your machine or to come and solve it.
You can't tell your customers that your software is down and you have to keep doing your job.
You have to spend an additional 3 days in your own time, working late or weekends to try and fix the software yourself.
You to keep downloading a Gigabyte of data 3 or four times and you have to pay for downloads. Currently you are running up a bill of over £100 in downloads and phone calls.
You don't get paid the overtime and your customers start complaining you are late with your work.
You lose customers... you eventually get fired because you have lost too many of them.
...This is what it feels like for a small creative business to not be able to install the software they bought.

WONT START AT ALL

Dear all, this is frustrating. The system just wont start up, chimes and spins around but just goes up to the apple logo and that is it. I leftit in sleep mode all night by mistake and the following day refused to start. Any ideas pls? I've done all the suggestions to reset the pram/ram.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled on some models, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 7
Repeat Step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 8
This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 9
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested. If you can't get to an Apple Store, go to another authorized service provider.

Satellite U400-14B shuts itself off and now it wont start up

Hi
just got a new Satellite U400 this week.
Was working perfectly the first few days, then last night, it just shuts itself off and now it wont start up.
I press the on button and the row of lights next to it light up, but nothing happens I dont even get as far as the Toshiba screen.
I have tried many things. I left it plugged in overnight, tried taking the battery out and no result as of now.
The little led lights on the bottom indicate that there its plugged in, the battery is white not orange, when pressed they all light up again only for a split second.
The only thing I can liken this too is when a car wont start and you keep turning and turning the key, well in this case pushing a button, and nothing happens, the fans dont whir or anything...
help please...

Has extra Memory (RAM) been installed? Try removing one Memory Module and try a different Memory Slot.
If bad memory is not the problem, then there is not much else you can do except send it to an ASP for warranty repairs.

PMG4 dual 1ghz wont start up

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