POOR battery capacity

I have never had a phone or iPod with such a poor battery life, even in the oldest days of cell phones. Even with everything except the phone turned off. This is incredible! I had a Blackberry before; its battery lasted for a week! With the same usage, my iPhone is done after a day. Incredible!
Am I the only one who is so disappointed? What kinda professional tool is this? It's a toy, and one you can't play with very long.

More than likely your Blackberry was not a 3G phone, and it certainly did not have a 3.5" screen. There aren't many if any 3G phones that provide great battery life when accessing the internet when connected via 3G compared to non-3G phones - especially when compared to phones in the oldest days of cell phones, and there are no 3G phones in the smart phone category that do. Phones in the oldest days of cell phones were used for calls only - not via 3G, no internet access, ano music/video player, and no large screen.
You need to compare Apples to Apples - no pun intended.
I'm not disappointed since I had a 3G non-smart phone prior to the iPhone, and the battery life wasn't great with that phone either - not compared to the non-3G phone I was using before that one.
Depending on the battery life you are getting, you may have a defective battery or iPhone.

Similar Messages

Satellite Pro L50 - poor battery charge capacity

Satellite Pro L50, I had a warning box appear from the Toshiba PC Health Monitor which said
"Your battery charge capacity is relatively poor.
After a period of time, the battery will lose its ability to perform at max capacity & may need to be replaced. This is normal for all batteries. For more info about the 'poor' charge status click the help button."
Clicking the help button indicated the battery condition at about a third charge capability.
Is this an indication that I need a new battery?
The laptop is only 4 months old & I have some concerns. Comments appreciated
Regards, Mooky.

Laptop PSKJPA-00E00U Satellite Pro L50-A O/S Win7 Pro SP1 32b purchased 22/10/2013.
1. 10/7/2014 Toshiba PC Health Monitor indicated "Battery Charge Capacity Poor - Battery will loose its ability to perform at max capacity & may need to be replaced". Battery (PA5107U-1BRS) was replaced by Toshiba as the battery is enclosed within the laptop case.
2. Currently there is a red cross on the battery charge notification icon which indicates "consider changing your battery".
This indicator is a Windows battery health warning which I have now disabled. The Toshiba PC Health Monitor indicates that the battery is good & everything is OK.
PC works fine & battery charge usually lasts about 2 hours.
Is the battery on the way out?
Do I need to contact Toshiba again as the batteries seem to last less than one year & are difficult to replace being inside the case.
I would appreciate any advice as I am unsure where to go from here.
Regards, Mooky

Battery capacity poor

Hi all:
I bought a 13" MacBook in January, about a month after a close friend. He regularly gets 4 to 4.5 hours out of his battery. The best I have ever gotten is 3 and change. I have done the "recalibration," both when the MB was new, and just yesterday, but my battery capacity is far behind his, and I feel defective. The "Full Charge Capacity (mAh)" according to the system profiler is 4813 with 44 recharge cycles, while my friend's is 59xx. What can I do to get Apple to replace this battery, which in my opinion is defective and does not meet Apple's standards?

Hi Robert,
First check your energy option setting, maybe your setting is draining the battery faster than your friend macbook setting.
Best thing you can do is visit apple store and explain the battery problem to them.
I bought my laptop on early June '06 and it start to drop the battery real fast after 8 month of use and the capacity is similar to your battery.
And apple store genius guy examine my macbook and battery and they give me the new one (I have to wait a week since they don't have it on stock).
Good Luck.

What is the original battery capacity in mAh for MBPr?

My laptop battery is very poor (4 hours) in %25 birghtness.
My Original battery capacity is 8400 mAh
Cycle count 5
What is the original battery capacity of the laptop should be?

When I charge my battery, brand new rMBP it says design capacity of 8460, current capacity of 8565, but current charge of only 8142.. why would they all be different?

Help! Poor battery condition

Hi, here I have a question with my battery which is now in "Poor" condition.
I bought my SL510 about 4 years ago. Several days ago I noticed its battery's capacity dropped to 7.89 Wh, which is almost only 10% of its design capacity.
After some researching, I found a lenovo utility named "Battery Firmware Update Tool". It finally worked and the capacity came back to 100%!
BUT! I made a big mistake after. Forget where I got the **bleep** suggestion to do a battery gauge reset after the updating. I did it twice! And my poor battery is poor again, only 3.89 Wh now, and can not get better whatever I tried.
Anyone can help me here? Or just give me a confirmation that there is no way to rescue my battery and I'll give it up. But I don't think a simple "Gauge Reset" can kill a battery or shorten its life. If so, it should never be provided to the customer.
Thanks!

Thanks again. But it seems my bad English misled you.
The 3 hours battery lasting time was after I updated the battery firmware. Right now it drops to less 20mins because of the "Gauge Reset".
Thanks anyway. I'll give it up.
hausman wrote:
zhangandi wrote:
By the way, how long usually it takes to do a "Gauge reset"? I ran it overnight, it was still running, I had to stop it myself. Is that the reason to damage the battery?
A battery gauge reset discharges the battery fully then recharges it. That process takes several hours. Do not use your ThinkPad during this process because that will make the gauge inaccurate.
Due to the chemistry in a Li-Ion battery it's possible that a full discharge could damage the battery. IIRC the documentation does warn against doing resets too many times. So if you're now getting 3 hours out of a charge on a 4 year old battery I'd just leave well enough alone and use the battery as is.

Mid 2010 MacBook Pro battery capacity at 89% with 64 cycles

Hello everyone,
I have a 13" mid 2010 MacBook Pro that I got around Christmas time. I downloaded coconutbattery a couple days ago and when i used it then My battery capacity had been 91%. So I thought that this was odd because of how new the computer is still (15 wks old with 64 battery cycles) so I read about how the battery needs to be recalibrated from time to time and after doing so (followed the directions perfectly) My capacity is now down to 89%. Should this be something to be concerned about or is this normal?

It's quite normal and sometimes a recalibration can see things go up as well as down

MacBook Pro Mid 2010 Battery Capacity

I've read a few threads about this, mostly about battery capacity rapidly dropping after an install of ML. I installed ML when it first came out, and just noticed the drastic decrease in battery life about 3 weeks ago. My capacity could have potentially been dropping since I installed ML (and I just now noticed it), or it may have just started a couple weeks ago when I noticed. I'm not sure.
Either way, my MacBook Pro (Mid 2010) now has a battery life of less than an hour, even with extremely light processor load. I contacted Apple about this, and the tech said that the battery was rated for 1000 cycles. I'm currently at 220, and my battery capacity is a pathetic 30%. He said that since I wasn't under warranty, there was nothing they could do besides replace the battery - which I really want to avoid since I'm a broke college student.
Is there anything I can do here? I understand that I'm not under warranty anymore, and this wouldn't be a problem if my battery was degrading normally. However, getting 1/5th of the recommended battery life is pretty sad. I've read that doing a clean install of Mountain Lion/Lion might help. Is there a way I can do this without having to back up all my files? I don't have an external hard drive or anything.
It seems this is a common topic in these forums. Any help or links to solutions would be great. If this is answered in a similar topic, I'll gladly delete.
Here is the system info on my battery, incase that might help:
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number:          9G030040MD3MA
Manufacturer:          DP
Device Name:          bq20z451
Pack Lot Code:          0
PCB Lot Code:          0
Firmware Version:          201
Hardware Revision:          2
Cell Revision:          158
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):          1453
Fully Charged:          No
Charging:          Yes
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):          1939
Health Information:
Cycle Count:          220
Condition:          Service Battery
Battery Installed:          Yes
Amperage (mA):          1507
Voltage (mV):          12214
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          0
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          15
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Wake on LAN:          Yes
Current Power Source:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep:          0
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          15
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
Reduce Brightness:          Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed:          No
AC Charger Information:
Connected:          Yes
ID:          0x0100
Wattage (W):          60
Revision:          0x0000
Family:          0x0085
Serial Number:          0x00cb7bc3
Charging:          Yes
Thanks in advance

Condition:
     Service Battery
You need a new battery.

Poor battery life and WiFi connectivity on iPhone 5s

I have bought a new iPhone 5s 16GB running iOS 8.1.2 3 days ago. The device that I have got has a poor battery life and WiFi connectivity. I have tried lots of methods given on the internet like turned off the auto-brightness, reset the phone to default settings.
Then contacted the Apple Care for battery issue. They asked for the diagnostics to check the problem. They said its happening because of the crash of inbuilt app Springboard asked me to try "Set up as new iPhone". Even after doing all these, I am still getting battery not more than 4 hours.
This is not expected from Apple. Such an awful experience on my first iPhone buying.

Puneet_Agg wrote:
I have bought a new iPhone 5s 16GB running iOS 8.1.2 3 days ago. The device that I have got has a poor battery life and WiFi connectivity. I have tried lots of methods given on the internet like turned off the auto-brightness, reset the phone to default settings.
Then contacted the Apple Care for battery issue. They asked for the diagnostics to check the problem. They said its happening because of the crash of inbuilt app Springboard asked me to try "Set up as new iPhone". Even after doing all these, I am still getting battery not more than 4 hours.
This is not expected from Apple. Such an awful experience on my first iPhone buying.
Where exactly did you buy this new 5S?

Poor battery life and high temperatures on MacBook Pro Retina 15"

I'm having never-ending problems with poor battery life and high temperatures on a MacBook Pro Retina 15"
I took it in for service and they told me it needed a new logic board and replaced it. When I asked why they were vague about the reasons, they said "it just needed one, it failed some test". I now have the computer back and it runs the same way it always did. I bought this laptop because it was supposedly capable of high end video editing in 1080P (or so Apple's website claims) and also photo editing.
"The processor, graphics, all-flash architecture, memory, and display in the 15-inch MacBook Pro give you unprecedented mobile video editing capabilities. Super-responsive flash storage delivers up to nine streams of 1080p ProRes (HQ) content for multicam editing in Final Cut Pro X,3 while the latest quad-core processors on the 15-inch MacBook Pro decode multiple streams of video, and a powerful GPU renders millions of pixels onto the screen. With flash storage that offers up to four times the performance of a traditional hard drive,1 you can even edit four streams of uncompressed 8-bit 1080p HD video, right from the internal storage on your 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina display.4"
However, when I'm just browsing the web and emailing it runs quite warm and battery life is quite poor. Sometimes doing those same activities I would say it gets so warm it's almost uncomfortable to have on your lap and the fans are running fast enough to become noticably noisy. I'm also driving only one screen at and a time and I heard that the MacBook Pro can supposedly do three screens.
If actually try to do something like video editing with final cut pro the laptop gets really hot, the fans are on full blast and battery life drops to only an hour or two. I think when I rendered just a 3 or 4 minute clip once I got less than hour of battery life. I will have to time again.
Anyway most people (including the sales guys) are telling me no way this is not normal. When I play with demos in the store browsing the web they are not getting warm or hot to the touch. My friend's 2013 MacBook Air is also NOT getting warm to the touch doing the same activities.
I installed iStat Pro so I could check the temperature and fan speeds. I'm seeing temperatures of 70+ on the GPU, 85+ on the GPU diode and 65+ on the CPU heatsink along with elvated fan speeds above 5K which becomes noticeably noisy. I understand that might be normal for the most processor intensive tasks but it really doesn't seem right for just light web browsing and e-mailing. (I also may have viber and skype open but that shouldn't matter). CPU usage is usually running between 2-10% as this is all happening to.
Furthermore, straight from the specs:
Intel HD Graphics 4000
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M with 1GB of GDDR5 memory and automatic graphics switching
I am assume "GPU" and "GPU diode" are temp measurements on the discrenete NVIDIA video card, especially since MacBook Airs from the same and newer generatio do not have this reading. Since Apple Claims the graphics "automatically switches" it seems all the harder to believe the GPU is reaching 85+ when in theory it shouldn't even be activated. I mean, shouldn't the INtel HD Graphics 4000 be capable of simple web browsing and e-mailing? Especially with only one screen activated (be it it the internal or an external)?
What should I do here? When I asked the repair guys "OK well what is the normal operating temp range for the various sensors" they said "Sorry Apple doesn't provide that info".

Yes I have.
Just web browsing and basically doing nothing I'm hear a lot of aduible fans, I'm getting 85C+ on GPU diode, 65+ on cpu heatsink. I since installed anohter program that shows me not just the CPU heatsink but the cores and the cores are at 90C+.
Seems like a lot of heat for doing nothing. Not only that but I have these problems with no external monitor while on battery power too.
I don't know what to do. They already replaced the logic board. Others seem to get advertised battery life out of Apple products and not have products that get **** near hot enough to burn you while just web browsing or watching a movie let alone advertised tasks like Photoshop and Final Cut Pro.

Possible solution for those suffering from poor battery life - data dropouts etc...

I was having the same bizarre data dropouts - an FDR and cache wipe with no app/data/settings restore fixed it for me, yes it IS a pain in the rear - YES it will take a couple hours if you have a ton of apps and accounts - YES it IS worth it, phone is working as it should now!
Cache Wipe:
Press and hold the Power button and turn the phone off.
When the screen turns off, press and hold Volume Down and Power.
When the white HBOOT screen appears, use the volume button to move down to “RECOVERY.”
Press the Power button to select “RECOVERY.”
When the triangle and exclamation appears, hold the Volume Up and Power button at the same time.
Using the volume button, scroll down to “Wipe cache partition” and select it.
Select “Reboot system now.”
Before doing the FDR do this:
Menu-->System Settings-->Privacy-->under the Backup & Restore items clear the Automatic Restore checkbox.
***NOTE*** By doing this you will lose everything on the phone and internal storage(NOT on the microSD) - you will have to manually reinstall all apps, setup all accounts etc...it take awhile to do but it has solved 99% of the issues I was having: dragginess, dropped 4G, poor battery life etc...
Factory Data Reset
From the screen of your phone, press the Menu button
Tap System Settings.
Scroll down and tap Privacy
Tap Factory Data Reset
Check Erase internal storage if you would like to erase all the data on the phone internal storage such as applications, music, movies or photos.
Tap Reset Phone

There is a little easier Way to Navigate in Doing an F.D.R. than that Method: I listed it here if you prefer going this Route..
2. Re: FACTORY RESET FOR RAZR AN RAZR MAXX

Apple care is useless in India. I bought an iPhone 5 from a Maple store in June 2013. Also got convinced at the store and purchased an additional Insurance worth Rs 1000 at the same time. The iPhone 5 has a very poor battery life. Needed to be charged at

Apple care has been of absolutely no help to me. My 10 month old iPhone 5 stopped charging one fine day and Apple denies any responsibility for the same. Between my Family of 4, we Re currently using 5 Apple devices. Am so disappointed with the service from Apple. Although my cell phone is well within the warranty period , I have been denied a replacement. And the Shield Insurance that I purchased is now declining the insurance amount even. They insist I prove that it is an accidental damage. And Apple refuses to cover what they choose to call a 'physical damage'. So where does that leave me ?!

I cannot see the damage. But the screening centre has pics showing it is damaged. Apple refuses to cover a physical damage. But the reason the device is damaged could only be coz it had a poor battery life from start. The iPhone 5 is infamous for the same. We all know it. Apple conveniently denies responsibility.
And the Insurance company says it covers only accidental damage. Now how am I to prove an 'accidental' damage ? Unless I lie to them....

Macbook Pro 11,3 High End Retina battery capacity

HI,
As recent as 2 weeks ago I receieved a macbook pro that I purchased online. However due to the physical problems I had another one sent to me by apple. While waiting for the shipping company to pick up the problematic macbook pro I thought I'd compare the battery life on both of these units. to my suprise the old unit was performing better in terms of battery life.
New Macbook Pro 11,3 Capacity: 8688 mAh
2 Weeks Old Macbook Pro 11,3 Capacity: 8969 mAh
My questions are as follows:
1) Is this to be expected?
2) Should I complain and get it replaced again?
3) Anything I could do to increase the capacity on the new MPR?
Appreciate your input on this, cheers!
Happy holidays!

Great to hear :) I was really worried about my battery capacity as well when I got my 2nd mac.
The reason I exchanged my first one was it had really bad battery life. I tried all sorts of solutions and nothing seemed to work. It would always show I had a high battery capacity but the battery life was just terrible. I decided to exchange it and when I got my replacement I noticed it had low battery capacity. It turned out to be a great laptop it has much better battery life and it's capacity went up after I put a couple cycles on it.

Has anyone found a solution to the poor battery life in Mavericks?

Hi all,
I was wondering if anyone has found a reliable solution to the poor battery life after updating to Mavericks. I tried to have the Mac shutdown by letting it go all the way dead and then charge it back up but it still is lousy. To literally see the battery guage go down in such a short period of time is surprising as I didn't have this in my previous OS. My machine is a five month old Macbook Pro Retina. I want to say I started seeing this change after installing the last Mail update for Mavericks. I definitely didn't encounter it after the initial update to Mavericks.
Thoughts, comments, ideas?
Ed

Read through the posts on the right side of the page under 'More Like This'. Several fixes have been mentioned amongst them. But as there was an issue in Mountain Lion that was rectified with an update then it may just be a case of waiting to see if Apple issue a solar update for Mavericks. Remember it has only been out two weeks so I would doubt that if there is an update coming for it that they would release it without thorough testing.
Cheers
Pete

Battery Capacity Question

This morning my battery capacity was at 48% after I calibrated it over night due to the system profiler telling me to "check battery." After using my computer for a little while without it being plugged in, my battery was down to about 45min remaining for power. Then I closed the lid and put it to sleep. After about an hour I opened it and immediately the message popped up saying that my computer was running on reserve power and I should plug it in. Now, my current battery capacity is at 26%.
Does anyone know why this has happened? Should I just get a new battery?
Thanks!

It means that you most likely need a new battery. If your computer is still under warranty then bring it there. If it's out of warranty, then you might have to pay. If your battery has less than 300 charge cycles then you can ask if they are willing to replace it for free or a minimal charge since Apple said their battery should held 80% life after 300 cycles.

My battery capacity decreases per charge!!!

Hi guys I need help, I am very frustrated about this matter , This is my first macbook pro retine late 2013 the latest one out yet 4gb ram baseline model with the dubal core i5. I started playing LOL or League of Legends an online game a few weeks back.
When I did start I was completely hooked and played multiple hours even with the battery charger plugged in. The battery lost its total capacity from 6300 its about 6200 then it fell 6150 ok then I statred carying ok I LOVE MY MAC AND ITS BATTERY.
So i went like ok i will play max 40 mins per day, fine huh 1 time per charge cycle make sure the charge cycle is 20 hrs long I have been trying to do this more or less BUT EVEYTIME I PLAY THE GAME EVEN IF THE CHARGE drop is only 30% my total battery capacity drops.
I am checking this through MULTIPLE apps and every time i play the drop is bloody 0.5 percent and i CANT TAKE IT and when i dont play on a chrge cycle there is NO DROP IN THE OVERALL capacity.
Note i take soo much care when i pay i charge it to 100 and keep it ice cold when i play and its not plugged in. Any advice are the apps wrong is my capacity decresing are macs not meant for gaming or if i conture down this path will i have to eventully replace my battery just any adivce or thoughts on this matter will be VERY APPRECIATED!!!

When Taxing the system, Running it Hard as most all games do, it will draw power from both the AC charger and the battery at the same time.
The AC charger Apple supplies is not large enough to do both Power the system and charge the battery, or even keep the same charge on the battery, when the system is working hard.
As to the overall capacity of the battery that will go down with the increase of charge cycles.
What you are seeing is completely normal for all Mac notebook computers.

POOR battery capacity

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