Port Splitter?

My company recently migrated my department to MacBook Airs (it's amazing). I have a VGA dongle so I can use a 2nd monitor and a Thunderbolt adapter so I can plug in ethernet, but of course the Air only has one port (an HDMI port it's called?) so I can only use one at a time. They have to make some sort of splitter for this port right? I realize I could get a USB adapter instead to plug in my ethernet, but then I'd have to choose between my mouse and keyboard. I found a full-up docking option on the Apple store for $250, but was looking for something a little more simple and price effective. Say I just wanted to split my HDMI port so I had two. Is that possible? Is there a solution that's closer to the neighborhood of $50?
Thanks.

dwhit1110 wrote:
but then I'd have to choose between my mouse and keyboard.
Is there a solution that's closer to the neighborhood of $50?
Apple magic mouse wireless
also wireless keyboard

Similar Messages

Splitter and new HD TVs

I haven't called Verison yet; I wanted to research. I have a 5-port splitter (1in, 4out) where FiOS comes into the house. One of the ports goes to the attic where I have another splitter for multiple TVs. We had no problems until recently when we moved a 2nd HD TV upstairs (fed from the attic). With one HD TV and no splitter upstairs all is fine. As soon as I add the splitter, channels 570 and 574 start to pixilate. I though the splitter had gone bad so I ordered a new one from FiOS. It had no effect.
What can be done? We have four outlets fed from the attic. Once our daughter moves out, 2 will of the TVs will be HD but cable is run to all 4 outlets.
I read that an amp is not the answer since its not compatible.
Relaxdad

It's probable that you simply have too much signal loss. First, you should only have as many split outputs as you have STB's -- additional splits add additional loss and additional points for interference to enter. Any outputs which don't have an STB on them if they can't be eliminated entirely should have a terminator on them so that no signal leakage can occur.
Essentially, you want your network to be as flat as possible with as short as possible a run between each STB and the ONT and between each STB and the Router.
A two-way (one in, two out) splitter loses -3db at each output.
A three-way splitter typically loses -3db on the leftmost output and -6db on the right two outputs (but I have seen cheap ones which lose -6db across every output)
A four-way splitter typically loses -6db across all outputs (but I have seen ones which lose -3db out the left most, -6db out the second, and -9db out the last two).
Most splitters usually show the loss for each output.
Try to think about how you would set this up if all you had were two-way splitters. Then design it so that you can have the shortest path for each STB to the ONT and the Router. Once you have that, you should be able to figure out where you could substitute in 3-way or 4-way splitters.
In particularly, I believe you need to start with a two-way splitter -- and send one output up to the attic before you split it again and the other to the downstairs areas.
If after you do this and reduce your splitter counts and remove any "open" coax outputs, you still have pixelization, then it's possible that Verizon may need to provide some amplification (there are amps available, but you can't use the ones you pickup at the typical electronics store).

Port event mechanism and full dupex socket -AIO with Completion Port

Hi,
I just started to port code from Windows OS to Solaris. I need a way to implement something similar to AIO with Completion Port from Windows on Solaris OS. After initial investigation I have discovered port - events API.
It is quite elegant.
The problem is that I can't figure out if it is possible to use single port to achieve full duplex socketing.
This means is it possible to serve both POLLIN & POLLOUT for given socket ( PORT_SOURCE_FD ) with single port ?
From port_associate man pages it seems that it is not possible to achieve something like that.
"... If the specified object is already
associated with the specified port, the port_associate()
function serves to update the events and user arguments of
the association. ..."
Does this means that I need to create two separate ports - one for POLLIN events and the other for POLLOUT events in order to be able to achieve full duplex concurrent socket ?
Since I'm quite new in Solaris development I would kindly ask you to give me a hint what would be the best way to implement something similar to Windows Asynchronous IO With Completion Port on Solaris OS.
Many thanks
Mirko

Hi,
Yes, it can't use single port to achieve full duplex socketing, under win32, there have some tools, for example [serial port splitter|http://www.softsea.com/review/Serial-Port-Splitter.html], can allow you to share one serial port among several applications, but Slaris can't support this, and the funcation port_associate() need use two separate ports.

Unplugging all network devices from Fios router prevents DVR freezing and remote control lock ups.

All,
I recently had a Verizon tech visit my house due to constant DVR and remote control freezing. TV content was freezing whether it was locally recorded, pulled from another DVR in the house, or On Demand. On a hunch after the tech tested everything and was about to leave, he unplugged my gigabit switch from the Fios router. Lo and behold everything started running perfectly. Since to the tech, the problem was solved, he closed the case and was on his way. The probem is of course I have more devices than the built in router switch provides ports for. My network is compised of an 8 port Netgear gigabit switch downstream from the Fios router with two wireless access points (with their own built in gigbait switches) connecting to the Netgear gigabit switch. There are no loops in the switch topology. I've tried changing out the router, the gigabit switch, removing the wireless acces points individually as well as plugging the access points directly into the Fios router switch (one at a time with no Netgear switch in the middle) and all scenarious cause the DVR/remote control freeezing to come back. The only devices I can plug into the Fios router without causing freezes are PC's....anything with it's own switch essentially brings the network to it's knees. If anyone has an idea how to get my network back in one piece AND make the DVR's/remotes behave, I'd greatly appreciate the help!
My Fios equipment:
MI-424WR GEN-3I rev I (eye) running firmware 40.19.36
5 Motorola HD-DVRs all QIP 7232-2 running software release 1.9.1 platform build 25.39 (Oct. 22, 2012)
Specific config:
75/35 Fios connecting via ethernet from ONT. Set-top boxes connect to Fios router coax port via powered splitter.
*All SNR/dB mesasurements taken by the tech from the set-top boxes and router are well within spec.
Fios router provides DHCP addressing. Wireless N access points are configured for roaming with the same SSID and non-overlapping channels. Access points are not providing routing or IP adressing...all layer 3 and up services still provided by Fios router
Diagram:
ONT
|
Fios Router ---------Cable Splitter---------Set Top Boxes
|
Netgear Switch
|           |
WAP1    WAP2

WayfarerII wrote:
... DVR ... remote ... freezing ... TV ... whether ... locally recorded, pulled from another DVR ...
... tech ... unplugged my gigabit switch from the Fios router ... and ... everything started running perfectly ...
... config:
75/35 Fios ... via ethernet from ONT ... Set-top boxes connect to Fios router via powered splitter ...
ONT
|
| cat5
|
Fios Router ---------Cable Splitter---------Set Top Boxes
|
Netgear Switch
|           |
WAP1    WAP2
I am inclined to echo several of the "tns" comments, particularly with respect to your splitter. My layout is based on a standard 8-port splitter of the type usually supplied in a VZ install. In addition I do have a ChannelPlus device that functions as a powered splitter, but its use is limited to distribution of secondary TV signals to older analog TVs. My first point then is that this may be an offender as "tns" has suggested.
In addition, I'd describe your wiring as "non-standard" (red-colored items in the above diagram)  As you're no doubt aware, with 75/35 you don't really need Cat5e from the ONT (your original diagram). It seems the highest tiers do require it, but in "standard" installations this run is coax directly to an 8-port non-powered splitter (below diagram), then from that splitter via coax to all STBs and CableCards, other TVs, et.), and also to the Actiontec.   Subsequent feeds from the Actiontec to wired devices (including WAPs) are via Ethernet (typically Cat 5e).
In fact I don't immediately see how your STBs get additional services such as On Demand and IMG with the wiring shown in your diagram (perhaps someone can help me out here). In "standard" installs the Actiontec must be connected via coax to the ONT to provide such services to other network clients. I don't see that requirement being met here.
For starters I'd recommend that you change your service from WAN Ethernet to WAN coax. This can easily be accomplished over the telephone. Then I'd run coax directly from the ONT to the Actiontec as in my revised diagram below (blue-colored items). If your setup can manage with this arrangement, I think it will help greatly with the "freezing" issue.
ONT - - - - - - coax - - - - -
                                         |
Fios Router --- coax--- Standard 8-Port Splitter --- coax --- Set Top Boxes
|cat5
Netgear Switch
|cat5          |cat5
WAP1 WAP2
Subsequent Note: You provided additional info while I was composing a response, and I'd like to offer another comment. Structured wiring "panels" of the type usually available are pre-configured to provide data, phone and video. This usually means that one is in certain respects limited by the ideas of the panel designer. I have what can be called a structured wiring layout, but it really is composed of individual small custom networks for each service (automation, security, video, data, telco, etc.), configured so that all wiring terminates in "home run" fashion at a central panel (a few details here: http://forums.verizon.com/t5/Home-Networking/Cmon-Show-Us-Your-Network/m-p/481733#M765 ). This layout makes it easier to make adjustments (and there have been quite a few over the intervening years). I'm thinking that in your case you may have to abandon the powered splitter (presumably) built into the panel in order to avoid your present fix.
Subsequent Subsequent Note:   From your description it seems that you are using more than a single "whole house" DVR to supply programming to other devices. This is a bit puzzling to me because somewhere along the line I recall reading that only a single whole house DVR was allowed on the network. Can you elaborate a bit?

Frequent internet drops (T4 modem reboots, upstream issues)

We've been with Comast for about a year and a half -- from day one we've had lots of problems staying connected to the internet. We've tried a number of solutions to no avail. (replacing router, removing splitter, removing unnecessary cable splices, etc.) After posting logs on some other forums, it seems we are experiencing some sort of upstream connectivity issue. Today the internet dropped about 10x in a span of 2-3 hours -- I looked at the modem status during this time and EVERY time the problem was the same -- T3 and T4 modem reboot errors and an inability to connect to upstream channels 46 and 47. It was these same two upstream channels EVERY time, which seemed odd. Here are a few snapshots of the logs and whatnot: Modem error log:http://tinypic.com/r/2ytxso5/8 Upstream channels 46 & 47 during T4 drops:http://tinypic.com/r/2d829f9/8 Overall modem signals (when modem is successfully connected):http://tinypic.com/r/2efsup5/8 From what I can tell, the signal strength is excellent. I'm guessing Comcast's first suggestion will be to "replace the modem." Keep in mind this has happened from day one when our modem was brand new -- as such, I really think there is something wrong with the actual physical line or something. From a frequency standpoint, this happens daily anywhere from every 10 minutes to every few hours (making things like online gaming literally impossible to do). At this point I think the only course of action is to have a tech come out and investigate this in-person. If anyone has any other suggestions let me know.

We had the same problem, up until about two weeks ago. Our internet would keep dropping and the modem would re-cycle. I do web design and run an eBay store, so this was incredibly frustrating. It started only happening a few times here and there, but eventually it got to where it was down/re-cycling more often than not...at least it seemed to be. Comcast was good about sending a tech out right away to see what the problem was. It was obvious it wasn't something that could be diagnosed and fixed over the phone support line. The technician came out and identified the same problem you are describing. Upstream connectivity issues. I don't remember all of the explanation, but we were unable to maintain a constant upstream connection. After a few minutes of checking out our wiring, he discovered the problem. During one of the last visits from a Comcast technician (we've had several problems over the years) they installed an 8-port splitter block to handle all of the cable outlets in our house. This was our problem. The 8-way splitter caused the upstream signal to degrade and be unable to maintain the connection. He took out the splitter block and replaced it with some sort of powered splitter (it looked expensive, but they didn't charge us for it). This took care of the problem immediately and we haven't had any problems for the last couple of weeks. Our speeds also increased dramatically. If you have any splitters (especially more than say three or four ports) this could be your problem. 8-way's are definite no-nos. At any rate, I would definitely have them come out and check out your problem. It is more than likely a wiring issue. I know how frustrating it is to experience the issues you are having. The technician used his phone to somehow track down the problem. The guy was really knowledgeable and explained things to me really well...I'm just too old to remember everything he said. He was in and out in all of fifteen minutes. At the end of everything, there was no charge for anything and our service has been wonderful ever since.

Tv not supported when connecting HDMI to ipad 30 pin connector running ios 8

tv not supported when connecting HDMI to ipad-2 30 pin connector running ios 8. Was working fine with ios 7.

Hello,
I need to conect it to either a mouse or an OLED display to transfer the content I was going to use thee standard charging USB to a port splitter and sending it from there but I wanted to check before I did something stupid.
Thanks.
James

Fax not sent. Modem hangs up before transmission

I have been searching the forums and not found an answer to my problem
I have tried fax software from several different companies . All have had the exact same problem. I suspect the problem may lie in the modem itself
Every time I try to send a fax. I hear dial tone. I hear and see the unit on the receiving end pick up. I hear the recognition tones, and then my modem hangs up.
Which software I use or how I try to send the fax seems to make no difference.
I am connected to the internet vie Ethernet with a DSL modem on the same phone line
Please help

Hi DasColeman!
You cannot be connected to the Internet, while you are sending a FAX.
You must use a Dial-Up connection, to FAX.
Not all DSL Cable Modems can be configured to send a FAX using the Panther 10.3.x FAX function.
Review this KB Article Can I fax with my cable, ADSL, DSL, or ISDN modem using Mac OS X 10.3?.
I have DSL as well, and when I want to send or receive a FAX, I disconnect the Ethernet cable from the Mac Ethernet port, plug a wire from the wall jack to the Internal Modem port on the Mac.
I have a two port Splitter/Filter plugged into the wall jack.
The Cable/DSL Modem wire, is always plugged into one of the ports on that splitter.
When I want to use the FAX function, I plug the telephone wire into the other port, but I do not unplug the Cable /DSL Modem.
The Splitter/Filter may not be a necessity. If you don't have one, just unplug the Cable Modem wire from the wall jack, and plug in the telephone wire.
I then set the Network System Preferences, back to the Internel Modem, deselect the Built-in Ethernet, selecting Internal Modem, and dragging it to the top of the window.
This of course will disconnect the Mac from the DSL connection, and you can then use the Internal Modem to send or receive a FAX.
Also review this Topic Faxing, for additional tips.
Additionally, when you enter the recipient FAX number, use this format 1-area code-xxx-xxxx.
ali b

Internal Modem No Longer Dials

For the first time in a while I tried to fax something off my Mac today and no matter what I did, the mode wouldn't dial the number. I am using the Fax PDF command. I tried entering the phone number manually, and I tried creating an Address Book entry with the number, but neither one worked. It launches the Internal Modem icon in the dock, and when I went to the Internal Modem window it would show the fax preparing to send, but never dial and just go into a hold for a few minutes, then try again with the same result.
Next I went to Faxing under Print and Fax in the System Preferences and selected Receive Faxes on This Computer to see if maybe that would make the modem dial when I tried to fax something, but that didn't help.
Finally I tried going into Network under the System Preferences and selecting Modem. There I clicked off the Wait for Dial Tone Before Dialing to see if that would get it to dial, but now it just says, "Waiting for Modem to become available." I've faxed off this computer before, so it should work. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is or how to fix it? (Under About This Mac, the Modem information lists the modem driver as com.apple.driver.AppleSCCSerial (v1.3.0), and I'm afraid that something has happened like the driver got updated in one of the automatic software updates to a version that for some reason won't run on my Mac, even though I'm using 10.4.11.) If anyone can help, I'd sure appreciate it!

Hi AdmrlLocke!
j.v. is doing an excellent job of assisting you, but see if the info posted below, is helpful.
You cannot be connected to the Internet, while you are sending, or receiving a FAX.
Not all DSL Cable Modems can be configured to send a FAX using the OS X FAX function.
Review this KB Article Can I fax with my cable, ADSL, DSL, or ISDN modem using Mac OS X 10.3?.
I have DSL as well, and when I want to send or receive a FAX, I disconnect the Ethernet cable from the Mac Ethernet port, plug a wire from the wall jack to the Internal Modem port on the Mac.
I have a two port Splitter/Filter plugged into the wall jack.
The Cable/DSL Modem wire, is always plugged into one of the ports on that splitter.
When I want to use the FAX function, I plug the telephone wire into the other port, but I do not unplug the Cable /DSL Modem.
The Splitter/Filter may not be a necessity. If you don't have one, just unplug the Cable Modem wire from the wall jack, and plug in the telephone wire.
I then set the Network System Preferences, back to the Internel Modem, deselect the Built-in Ethernet, selecting Internal Modem, and dragging it to the top of the window.
This of course will disconnect the Mac from the DSL connection, and you can then use the Internal Modem to send or receive a FAX.
Also review this Topic Faxing, for additional tips.
Additionally, when you enter the recipient FAX number, use this format 1-area code-xxx-xxxx.
ali b

Dual monitor via Displayport

Hi,
I am using a HP Compaq Elite 8300 and have two monitors connected. One via the diplayport and one via VGA.
I would like to know if it is possible to connect the two monitors via the displayport?
(the monitors should still register as two seperate monitors, not one large monitor)
If yes, which hardware would be needed?
Thanks.

Hello Grewy,
I understand that you want to connect your monitors to a single display port.
You can order a display port splitter.
In order to have a different image on both displays you would need to look for a POWERED display port splitter.
Let me know how everything goes.

Cannot Send A Fax

When I try to send a Fax, the Internal Modem window shows thathe Modem is trying to send a Fax but I do not hear a dial down and the Fax is never sent.
I can hear the modem dialing if I use the "Internet Connect" window but I do not want that window to appear, let alone use dial up instead of my DSL Ethernet connections.
Suggestions?

Martin,
"DO YOU MEAN THAT I CANNOT FAX IF I AM USING DSL?"
Not unless you reset the Network preferences, and use a telephone wire, as I previously advised.
I have DSL as well, and when I want to send or receive a FAX, I disconnect the Ethernet cable from the Mac Ethernet port, plug a wire from the wall jack to the Internal Modem port on the Mac.
I have a two port Splitter/Filter plugged into the wall jack.
The Cable/DSL Modem wire, is always plugged into one of the ports on that splitter.
When I want to use the FAX function, I plug the telephone wire into the other port, but I do not unplug the Cable /DSL Modem.
The Splitter/Filter may not be a necessity. If you don't have one, just unplug the Cable Modem wire from the wall jack, and plug in the telephone wire.
I then set the Network System Preferences, back to the Internel Modem, deselect the Built-in Ethernet, selecting Internal Modem, and dragging it to the top of the window.
This of course will disconnect the Mac from the DSL connection, and you can then use the Internal Modem to send or receive a FAX.
Also review this Topic Faxing, for additional tips.
ali b

MacBook-Apple Modem use with DSL Modem

I have a MacBook and also purchased an Apple USB Modem. Have not installed it as I now have DSL and their modem. Don't appear to be able to fax with the DSL modem, thus want to know if it's a problem installing the Apple USB Modem for faxing purposes? Is it possible and do I need to disconnect the DSL modem to do so?
<Post Relocated by Moderator>

Hi IMAC LADY!
You cannot be connected to the Internet, while you are sending, or receiving a FAX.
You must use a Dial-Up connection, to FAX.
Not all DSL Cable Modems can be configured to send a FAX using the OS X FAX function.
Review this KB Article Can I fax with my cable, ADSL, DSL, or ISDN modem using Mac OS X 10.3?.
I have DSL as well, and when I want to send or receive a FAX, I disconnect the Ethernet cable from the Mac Ethernet port, and plug a phone connection cord, from the wall jack to the Internal Modem port on the Mac.
If using an External Modem, connect to that.
I have a two port Splitter/Filter plugged into the wall jack.
The Cable/DSL Modem wire, is always plugged into one of the ports on that splitter.
When I want to use the FAX function, I plug the phone connection cord into the other port, but I do not unplug the Cable /DSL Modem.
The Splitter/Filter may not be a necessity. If you don't have one, just unplug the Cable Modem wire from the wall jack, and plug in the phone connection cord.
I then set the Network System Preferences, back to the Internel Modem, or External Modem, deselect the Built-in Ethernet, select Internal or External Modem, and drag it to the top of the window.
This of course will disconnect the Mac from the DSL connection, and you can then use the Internal Modem to send or receive a FAX.
Also review this Topic Faxing, for additional tips.
Additionally, when you enter the recipient FAX number, use this format 1-area code-xxx-xxxx.
ali b

W520 Owners: Compatible Splitter for combo Headphone/ Microphone Port

The w520 has a combo Headphone/ Microphone Port. You can use either a headphone or a microphone but NOT both UNLESS you have a ...
1. Headset with special 3 ring jack such as
      a. ThinkPad In-Ear Headphones (#57Y4488)
      b. 3.5mm TRRS Plug type Headphones for Smartphones (e.g. iphones, etc.) -- so you use the same headphone/mic you use for your cellphones (but lesser sound quality)
2. Splitter - so you can you use your own microphone and your own headphone/ stereo speaker (for better sound quality)
This solution was found here...
http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/W-Series-ThinkPad-Laptops/Where-is-the-Stereo-out-on-the-W520/ta-p/47306...
But a list of Compatible Splitters was not listed...
The aim of this thread is to verify and list compatible Splitter for W520 combo Headphone/ Microphone Port
The specs of the splitter are as follows: (Kindly verify if correct)
3.5mm (1/8") TRRS male plug (aka Smartphone plug) TO
3.5mm TRS Audio-Out Jack/ female plug AND 3.5mm Microphone-In Jack/ female plug
I browse online and found possible splitters. (In no particular order)
1. Sound Professionals Part# - SP-SMARTPHONE-CABLE
http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-SMARTPHONE-CABLE
--it was mentioned in the details tab that it is compatible with " Lenovo T410, T410s, T510, X, L & Edge computers"
so it is possible that W520 is compatible if the other Lenovo have the same combo port
- nickel contacts
2. Headsetbuddy Gold PC Computer Headset to 3.5mm Smartphone Adapter (Part# 01-PC35-PH35G )
http://www.theheadsetbuddy.com/gold-pc-computer-headset-to-3-5mm-smartphone-adapter/
- it was mentioned "Convert two 3.5mm plugs to single smartphone 3.5mm headset plug (TRRS) with mic and audio"
   so it fits the specs but I am not sure if it was tested for W520...
- gold contacts.
3. Headsetbuddy Gold PC Headset to 3.5mm Smartphone Adapter (Part# PC35-PH35G )
http://www.theheadsetbuddy.com/gold-pc-computer-headset-to-3-5mm-smartphone-adapter-1/
- same description as above but different part#. I am not sure if this is the same product or just a typo error on their website.
-gold contacts
4. Headsetbuddy PC Computer Headset to 3.5mm Smartphone Adapter (Part#01-PC35-PH35 )
http://www.theheadsetbuddy.com/pc-computer-headset-to-3-5mm-smartphone-adapter/
- - it was mentioned "Convert two 3.5mm plugs to single smartphone 3.5mm headset plug (TRRS) with mic and audio"
   so it fits the specs but I am not sure if it was tested for W520...
- nickel contacts
5. KV Connection iPhone 1/8 inch microphone and headphone adapter - 3.5mm 4 conductor TRRS Male to 3.5mm TRS Jacks (Part# KM-IPHONE-2TRS)
http://www.kvconnection.com/product-p/km-iphone-2trs.htm
It was mentioned that they have "Premium shield coax a/v cable for EMI/RFI interference...DC blocking protection ... microphone impedance matching"
They say it will "work with most 3.5mm mono or stereo microphones except for for unpowered ECM (electret condenser mics). If your microphone is an ECM without batteries then this special version of the adapter KM-IPHONE-2TRS-ECM is the adapter you would need."
So I guess the the type of microphone will have an effect also on what splitter to get.
On this site..
http://www.wfu.edu/~yipcw/lenovo/2011/T420s/review/
It says that on using the Part# KM-IPHONE-2TRS, with a "mono mic [Sony F-V410 cardioid imp 600 Ω vocal] in , it reverts to internal microphone for some reason.) and headphone"
So there can be incompatible mics for any splitter you use... OR is the defective splitter or the computer setting that is wrong...???
-nickel contact
6. KV Connection iPhone 1/8 inch electret condenser microphone and headphone adapter - 3.5mm 4 conductor TRRS Male to 3.5mm TRS Jacks (Part#KM-IPHONE-2TRS-ECM)
http://www.kvconnection.com/product-p/km-iphone-2trs-ecm.htm
-On site it says "This adapter is specifically for unpowered ECM (electret condenser mics). If your microphone is an ECM with batteries then the standard adapter, KM-IPHONE-2TRS is the adapter you would need."
-nickel contacts
7. eVerbatim splitter
http://www.everbatim.net/store/index.php/hardware/microphones-audio/headphone-microphone-jack-splitt...
- It says "This adapter has been designed and tested to work with all current Lenovo ThinkPad computers with a combined audio (VOIP) jack running Windows 7. Some ThinkPads that have the combined jack and that are running XP do not work with the adapter, which is a software issue and not a defect of the adapter. "
-nickel contacts
8. Startech 3.5mm 4 Pin to 2x 3 Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter - M/F (Part# MUYHSMFF)
http://www.startech.com/Cables/Audio-Video/Audio-Cables/35mm-4-Pin-to-2x-3-Pin-35mm-Headset-Splitter...
It says "allowing you to add a mono microphone input as well as a stereo output to your PC or Laptop, through a single 3.5mm audio port."
-nickel contacts
Kindly tell if you have used any of this on your laptop. And tell...
1. Compatible with your headphone? (what kind you use)
2. Compatible with your microphone? (what kind you use)
3. Any problems with sound?
I hope we can continue this thread to list the compatible splitters for the Lenovo Thinkpad W520... Please do add if you have seen other brands.
Thanks

Hi all
To be frank, some of the multimedia laptops, with SRS Premium Sound, etc. are having the same speakers as W510 / W520 and is very loud (AFAIK, Dell Inspiron N5110 have the same speakers as W520 and the placement is just below the palmrest like surround sound). Theoretically, it makes the sound less focus and soft, but it works well with that laptop.
The Mic and Speakers are powered by the amp / drivers. The hardware in fact is very good, the only problem with it is the driver / software not well written. Good Hardware + Bad Software = Bad Product.
If you want a better sound / mic, you could try my Dolby Home Theater v4 solutions, hopefully it could meet more than your expectations and solve your problems without any cost. In fact, Dolby GUI is more customizable than Conexant. Most of us would not think it's more complicated, as techies would prefers more options to have fun.
1. I don't even need a external mic, an internal mic does the job with this fix.
http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/W-Series-ThinkPad-Laptops/W520-bad-microphone-Usable/m-p/528497
2. Dolby makes the sound much better and louder with correct settings. If not, my post are not able to stay active till now, reaching 100+ posts.
http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/W-Series-ThinkPad-Laptops/W520-Sound-Enhancement-Thread/td-p/442761/pag...
Installation steps:
Simplifications of installing and optimizing Dolby Home Theater v4 threads. Message 77 and 78 + Attachment.
3. Get a USB solution only if you need multichannel audio, stereo / wave mix or studio grade quality, if you are just using for entertainment, etc. W520 with Dolby Home Theater v4 should be more than sufficient.
Cheers
Peter
=============================================
Does someone post helps you? Give them a kudos as a reward, as they will do better to improve
Mark it as solved if the solution works for you, so it could be reference for others in the future
Refunded Set: W510, 4876-A11
Current Set: W520, 4284-A99
Dolby Home Theater v4!:
http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/W-Series-ThinkPad-Laptops/W520-Sound-Enhancement-Thread/m-p/451401#M155...

Will apple tv work with a hdmi splitter of some kind ? TV only has 2 hdmi ports and both are in use

will apple tv work with a hdmi splitter of some kind ? TV only has 2 hdmi ports and both are being used .
If splitter will work any recomendations as to best type to use

The Hatter,
I am a novice at Mac so I read all I can. From what I understand the NEC monitors I bought require Display Port for their maximum performance. The GTX 680 only has DVI outputs. Difference from what I understand is larger bandwidth with the DP.
You said I have the 4000 for CUDA. I am not all that familiar with CUDA and when I do read about it I do not understand it.
A concern I have is, that if I connect the 2 high end NEC monitors via the 5770, using it's 2 Display Ports I would have nothing connected to the 4000. Is the 4000 doing anything with nothing connected? I read where in a PC system the 2 cards would interact but in a Mac system they do not.
Bottom line, as I see it, the 4000 will not be useful at all to me, since I want a dual monitor set-up.
So far the 5870 seems the best choice, higher band width than the 5770, and it has 2 Display Ports to optimize the NEC monitors.
I'm not sure how fine I am splitting hairs, nor do I know how important those hairs are. I am just trying to set up a really fast reliable system that will mainly be used for CS6 and LR4. Those NEC monitors are supposed to be top notch.

Anyone with experience using a Fosmon 3-way HDMI Splitter Hub Switch Port Cable Cord?

Would like to feed my new MacBook Pro laptop and an existing Dell Latitude laptop into the same 25" Hanspree HDMI monitor. Appears that the above Fosmon 3-way HDMI splitter Hub Switch could work since the input feed is manually selectable on the Splitter Hub. Before purchasing this and accompanying cables, has anyone had positive experience with use of this Splitter?
Cajun4ISU

Yes, you can connect an HDMI monitor directly up to a 2011 using an HDMI cable.
Look at > http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/mac_mini_mid2011_ug.pdf in Chapter 1 on Page 15 of the User Guide.

Multiple displays with 15"and 19"monitor using a VGA splitter on my Mac Pro

Hi, so I have a brand spanking new Mac Pro and have been using a cheap, basic 15" monitor with it. As I'm doing lots of Edit/graphics work I've just purchased a new monitor, it's a 19" Acer flatscreen. Now I'm hoping to work the same display across both monitors, so I can set up my preview window on the 15" and do my work on the 19" screen.
The Mac has two DVI output sockets in the back, both monitors are VGA but I only have one DVI to VGA adaptor. Though I do have a VGA splitter! So I've tried going from one DVI socket to VGA, then put the splitter into that and then each monitor into each split socket, if that makes sense? I now have the same display on each screen i.e. while I'm typing this I'm looking at it twice but I want to see it once over two screens, how do I adjust this, there's no option in display settings?
Is it simply that I need to buy another DVI to VGA adaptor and use the other port? Just looking to save myself a tenner, that's all!
Thanks!
Alex

Yep, you're right! Thanks, working now, very useful.

Port Splitter?

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