Possible Solution for iMac Airport/Internet Woes

Airport signal constantly dropping out and web pages taking an age to load?
INSTANT SOLUTION (Well it worked instantly for both me and one of my friends with the exact same issues anyway!)
Simply add the following to your DNS Servers
4.2.2.1
4.2.2.2
No more constantly dropped airport signal and no more waiting for pages to load. Internet now working as fast or even faster than ever!
I'll admit that I had little confidence in this working myself (Found an old article on the web ages ago that suggested this for a similar problem but cannot for the life of me find the article now!) but was completely blown away when it actually worked a treat!
For anyone who does not know how to add DNS servers:-
Open System Preferences/Network/Airport (In left hand pane)/Advanced (Button at bottom)/DNS (Tab along top)/Click plus sign and type in (Do this for both 4.2.2.1 and 4.2.2.2)/Click OK/Click Apply
Hopefully you should now have a solid connection!

**** that's a shame, I really thought this would work for some people. My friend's connection has been rock solid for months since he did this (After having the same issues) and mine hasn't dropped signal strength for 2 days since doing it (I've only recently had the issues).
Don't know if it's just coincidence or not but mine seemed to start dropping signal strength and slowing down after downloading RealPlayer. RealPlayer downloader started running the next time I openened Safari and my connection went totally erratic from then on. Deleting it did not rectify it, using the Open DNS servers (208.67.222.222 and 208.67.222.220) didn't work but since entering the 4.2.2.1 & 4.2.2.2 I have had no issues.

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Buy my problem of camels Store Lee games possible solution for me my problem?

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This worked for me, sort of. A while back when I downloaded that windows update that installed the new version of IE, I noticed that IE wouldn't connect to the internet and pages wouldn't load. However, I thought nothing of it because I use Firefox and FF was working just fine.
I went into IE earlier this evening (it still wasn't working) and tried to follow your recommended steps. I got up to step 4 and IE froze. I tried closing it, reopening it and repeating the steps but it would always freeze at step 4. In another thread, someone was saying that iTunes released a security update and that fixed the store for them so I tried opening Apple Software Update and that froze. I tried it several times, nothing. Would always freeze. I even tried updating thru iTunes and IT would freeze.
Finally, I went to the control panel and uninstalled IE7. The iTunes store and the Apple Software Update program are now working! So thank you very much for your suggestion. Otherwise, it may have never clicked with me that IE was the problem.
Windows XP

HT201272 Hi there! today i wanted to buy some gems so i charged my acc with 10 dolars and try out to buy gems. problem is i m getting "your purchase could not be completed" error... I have tried all possible solutions i found on internet...my restrinction

Hi there! today i wanted to buy some gems so i charged my acc with 10 dolars and try out to buy gems. problem is i m getting "your purchase could not be completed" error...
I have tried all possible solutions i found on internet...my restrinctions are disabled...tried reinstaling, relogging, restarting phone.. nothing seems to help...
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iTunes Store Support
http://www.apple.com/emea/support/itunes/contact.html

PrintWindow api with possible solution for capture screenshot Google Chrome window

Hi,
as all you know, PrintWindow api give us a black image when us want a capture screenshot of Google Chrome window. So, a friend said me that a possible solution for this problem is:
Reduce Google Chrome window for -1px in both sides and after this, reset to original size. And so, will repaint again.
Based on code below, someone could help me make this? sincerely I don't know where begin.
[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
static extern IntPtr FindWindow(string lpClassName, string lpWindowName);
[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
static extern IntPtr FindWindowEx(IntPtr hwndParent, IntPtr hwndChildAfter, string lpszClass, string lpszWindow);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern IntPtr GetDC(IntPtr WindowHandle);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern void ReleaseDC(IntPtr WindowHandle, IntPtr DC);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern IntPtr GetWindowRect(IntPtr WindowHandle, ref Rect rect);
[DllImport("User32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
[return: MarshalAs(UnmanagedType.Bool)]
static extern bool PrintWindow(IntPtr hwnd, IntPtr hDC, uint nFlags);
[StructLayout(LayoutKind.Sequential)]
private struct Rect
public int Left;
public int Top;
public int Right;
public int Bottom;
public static Bitmap Capture(IntPtr handle)
Rect rect = new Rect();
GetWindowRect(handle, ref rect);
Bitmap Bmp = new Bitmap(rect.Right - rect.Left, rect.Bottom - rect.Top);
Graphics memoryGraphics = Graphics.FromImage(Bmp);
IntPtr dc = memoryGraphics.GetHdc();
bool success = PrintWindow(handle, dc, 0);
memoryGraphics.ReleaseHdc(dc);
return Bmp;
private void button1_Click(object sender, EventArgs e)
IntPtr WindowHandle = FindWindowEx(IntPtr.Zero, IntPtr.Zero, "Chrome_WidgetWin_1", null);
Bitmap BMP = Capture(WindowHandle);
BMP.Save("C:\\Foo.bmp");
BMP.Dispose();
Any suggestions here is appreciated.

Hello,
I would prefer capture the screen rather than get it from that application directly.
It has been discussed in the following thread.
Is there any way to hide Chrome window and capture a screenshot or convert the Chrome window to image?
In this case, you could remove the line "ShowWindowAsync(mainHandle, 0); " since you don't want to hide it.
using System;
using System.Runtime.InteropServices;
using System.Diagnostics;
using System.Drawing.Imaging;
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern bool ShowWindowAsync(IntPtr hWnd, int nCmdShow);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
public static extern bool GetWindowRect(IntPtr hWnd, out RECT lpRect);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
public static extern bool PrintWindow(IntPtr hWnd, IntPtr hdcBlt, int nFlags);
public WhateverMethod()
//initialize process and get hWnd
Process chrome = Process.Start("chrome.exe","http://www.cnn.com");
//wait for chrome window to open AND page to load (important for process refresh)
//you might need to increase the sleep time for the page to load or monitor the "loading" title on Chrome
System.Threading.Thread.Sleep(4000);
chrome.Refresh();
IntPtr mainHandle = chrome.MainWindowHandle;
RECT rc;
GetWindowRect(mainHandle, out rc);
Bitmap bmp = new Bitmap(rc.Width, rc.Height, PixelFormat.Format32bppArgb);
Graphics gfxBmp = Graphics.FromImage(bmp);
IntPtr hdcBitmap = gfxBmp.GetHdc();
PrintWindow(mainHandle, hdcBitmap, 0);
gfxBmp.ReleaseHdc(hdcBitmap);
gfxBmp.Dispose();
bmp.Save("c:\\temp\\test.png", ImageFormat.Png);
ShowWindowAsync(mainHandle, 0);
[StructLayout(LayoutKind.Sequential)]
public struct RECT
private int _Left;
private int _Top;
private int _Right;
private int _Bottom;
public RECT(RECT Rectangle)
: this(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Right, Rectangle.Bottom)
public RECT(int Left, int Top, int Right, int Bottom)
_Left = Left;
_Top = Top;
_Right = Right;
_Bottom = Bottom;
public int X
get { return _Left; }
set { _Left = value; }
public int Y
get { return _Top; }
set { _Top = value; }
public int Left
get { return _Left; }
set { _Left = value; }
public int Top
get { return _Top; }
set { _Top = value; }
public int Right
get { return _Right; }
set { _Right = value; }
public int Bottom
get { return _Bottom; }
set { _Bottom = value; }
public int Height
get { return _Bottom - _Top; }
set { _Bottom = value + _Top; }
public int Width
get { return _Right - _Left; }
set { _Right = value + _Left; }
public Point Location
get { return new Point(Left, Top); }
set
_Left = value.X;
_Top = value.Y;
public Size Size
get { return new Size(Width, Height); }
set
_Right = value.Width + _Left;
_Bottom = value.Height + _Top;
public static implicit operator Rectangle(RECT Rectangle)
return new Rectangle(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Width, Rectangle.Height);
public static implicit operator RECT(Rectangle Rectangle)
return new RECT(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Right, Rectangle.Bottom);
public static bool operator ==(RECT Rectangle1, RECT Rectangle2)
return Rectangle1.Equals(Rectangle2);
public static bool operator !=(RECT Rectangle1, RECT Rectangle2)
return !Rectangle1.Equals(Rectangle2);
public override string ToString()
return "{ + _Left + "; " + " + _Top + "; Right: " + _Right + "; Bottom: " + _Bottom + "}";
public override int GetHashCode()
return ToString().GetHashCode();
public bool Equals(RECT Rectangle)
return Rectangle.Left == _Left && Rectangle.Top == _Top && Rectangle.Right == _Right && Rectangle.Bottom == _Bottom;
public override bool Equals(object Object)
if (Object is RECT)
return Equals((RECT)Object);
else if (Object is Rectangle)
return Equals(new RECT((Rectangle)Object));
return false;
And the key method used is the one shared in
Get a screenshot of a specific application.
Regards,
Carl
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Invalid ELF Heder [possible solution, for the unlucky]

well i duno whre to post this, but whatevr..
[woffle]
yesterday i found that for whatever reason a lot of apps stop working ,
and instead started complaining about libc.so..6 having an invalid ELF Header... [?] i dunno, that was before and after the upgrade to the 2.5 version...
anyay, i googled it and found a few random users with this problem, so i knew it had nothign to do with anything.. prolly just the unlucky ones lol..
[possible solution]
anways... i managed to fix it [i think] by linking /usr/lib/libc.so.6 to /lib/libc.so.*2.5 instead of /usr/lib/libc.so
[add]
/usr/lib/libc.so is an ld-script btw. duno if it should be that way..
i'd file a bug report, but as i said.. it just happened out of teh blue, i did no sys up/down-grades , compiles, nothing... apart form install kdebase to get kate...

Hi Florin,
Check person type useage also. coz When Employee.Ex-Applicant' person type changes to 'Employee.Applicant', no other actions can be processed for that person.
Kind Regards,

Applecare for iMac - Airport Extreme registration

I have an iMac registered with Applecare, and I'm trying to register the same applecare with my Airport Extreme. Does anyone have any idea how to do it? I used the same activation code for iMac, but it won't let me register.
Thanks in advance for any help!

If you read the applecare agreement, you will find airport extreme, keyboard, and mouse etc. are covered automatically by iMac Applecare when you use these devices with the covered iMac. Anyways.. i got the answer from another forum, i actually don't need to register it online... Thanks all the same!

Possible solution for white C2D iMacs with screen artifacts or lines

I have a white 20" Core 2 Duo iMac with the famous screen artifacts issues. Screen tearing, horizontal lines, goofy pixels, you name it. From my research it seems there are countless others with these problems.
I tried running the SMC fan control app to boost fan speeds. This helped a little, but did not completely solve the issue. A lot of people think these issues are related to heat, and I agree, but only partially. When a graphics chip overheats it is eventually damaged. I have damaged my share of graphics chips while overclocking them in my PCs. In the case of my iMac and maybe plenty of others, I still have issues if the GPU is hot or cold.
I installed WinXP using bootcamp. I finally found an application which will change the clock speed of the GPU on the fly. The X1600 GPU in my iMac has a 475Mhz core speed and 500Mhz memory speed. I cut these down to 400Mhz on the core and 400Mhz on the memory. At these lower speeds I no longer have any issues with screen tearing, horizontal lines, or random crashing. I do still have a few wierd pixels here and there, but they are not all that noticeable and I can live with them.
Now for the fun part. I wanted to permanently fix these speeds into my GPU so when I boot back to Mac OS X, I don't have any issues, and I no longer have to boost fan speeds or run any additional apps. I spent most of today taking apart my iMac, putting DOS on a spare SATA hard drive, and running an external monitor while booting my iMac with the spare drive hanging out the side. All this so I can run ATIflash, and use it to dump an image of the GPU BIOS ROM file.
Well, I ended up finding out the ATI GPU has no ROM to flash. My best guess is open firmware or something like that passes this data on to the GPU when the system boots.
So, in my case slowing the GPU down significantly reduced my problems while running within windows. I am 100% confident slowing the GPU down will also improve issues within Mac OS X, but I have no way to pull this off.
If Apple reads this, or if anyone has any connections at Apple, can we please get an optional firmware update to reduce the speeds of the X1600 GPU? It won't fix all the iMacs with these issues, but it will fix quite a few, and for those out there who don't have any issues at all with their white C2D iMacs, lowering the GPU speeds will most likely prevent damage from inevitably occurring, keeping them a happy customer.
Now, some of you may not like the idea of a slower GPU, but if I have to pick between a slower GPU and an $800 logic board, I will take the slower GPU any day.

There is a little easier Way to Navigate in Doing an F.D.R. than that Method: I listed it here if you prefer going this Route..
2. Re: FACTORY RESET FOR RAZR AN RAZR MAXX

Solutions for Imac G4 with no HDD

Bought a "Lamp" Imac G4 at auction with HDD removed.
It is such a design tour-de-force, I had to have one, if only just to use as a digital picture frame.
I'd like to use it for pictures, occasional web browsing, maybe a little music here or there.
15" screen, 1Gig processor, 512MiB RAM, 80GB HDD (removed)
I'm not afraid to install new RAM, or an airport extreme card, but replacing the HDD looks like a 36 step journey into tiny screw ****.
My two "cheat" solutions are: (I know nothing about Apple)
(1)     Add an external HDD...prolly via the firewire 400 port?
Is this doable at all with no internal HDD? Can it be that simple? What kind of drive? Please advise.
(2) I use a lot of Linux distros with my PCs (it doesn't take an Apple lover to despise Windows) Would it be possible to install an IMAC G4-friendly "light" distro like puppy Linux? An OS which can run live in the RAM?
(3) Any other simple way to avoid installing a new HDD in the VERY tightly packed globe of the "lamp"?
Feel free to hold my hand like the I-child that I am...

I run an external firewire harddrive off of my iMac g3 600. Works fine.
Restore Tiger 10.4 & Leopard 10.5 DVDs are available from Apple by calling 800-767-2775 as of January 20, 2013. Collect your Mac's serial number. Prepare you credit card for a workout. There is a reasonable fee.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4720126?tstart=0
Requirements for Mac OS X v10.5
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3759
You need an external Firewire drive to boot a PowerPC Mac computer [ a few G5's will boot from USB ].
I recommend you do a google search on any external harddrive you are looking at.
I bought a low cost external drive enclosure. When I started having trouble with it, I did a google search and found a lot of complaints about the drive enclosure. I ended up buying a new drive enclosure. On my second go around, I decided to buy a drive enclosure with a good history of working with Macs. The chip set seems to be the key ingredient. The Oxford line of chips seems to be good. I got the Oxford 911.
I'd give OWC a call. 1-815-338-8685.
FireWire 800 + USB 3, + eSATA
save a little money interface:
FireWire 400 + USB 2.0
This web page lists both external harddrive types. You may need to scroll to the right to see both.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/1394/USB/EliteAL/eSATA_FW800_FW400_USB
     (2) FireWire 800/400 Ports (Up to 100MB/s / 50MB/s)
     (1) USB 3.0 Port (Up to 500MB/s / 60MB/s)
     (1) eSATA Port (Up to 300MB/s)
Has a combo firewire 800/400 port. Not sure what this is. Looks like you will need 400 cable.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ministack
The startup manager will list all of your bootable partitions then give you a choice of which to boot.
Place cd machine. Poweroff your machine. Hold down the option key then power on. This brings up the startup manager. Click on your dvd. Click on right arrow key.

Possible fix for loss of internet!!!

The other threads were getting a little out of hand so I wanted to start fresh. It seems as though there are a lot of possible root causes for the internet connection drop problem. I have applied this fix to two computers with success. It may not work for you, but it's easy to try and won't screw everything up. Please mention if it works for you!
http://www.devtronik.com/
http://www.devtronik.com/apple/a-troubled-little-apple/

Glad it worked for you, but I happen to like my Firewire port for backing up my macbook, I also like using a external Bluetooth mouse and occasionally the built-in ethernet port, so removing any one of those items isn't really an option for me.
I tried to rationalize why doing this would help. Removing those network ports logically indicates doing so may be releasing an interupt making it available for another device like the Airport card.
This would NOT surprise me as I have seen numerous Interrupt errors in the past related to a dysfunctional Airport connection but that was with 10.5.5.
You would have to study your System Profiler system.log log file carefully for those errors, I tried to search for one in my current log file but couldn't find any.
Theoretically, you should be able to add those items back in one-by-one and rebooting between. Your active network connection should remain on top with highest priority.
But you would think there would be enough interrupts to assign one to each of those devices. Look for interrupt assignment errors in your system.log.
But I use on occasion the Maintenance utility downloaded from Apple to clean cache and rebuild the services or daemon database. This may be why I don't have any hardware interrupt conflicts.

10.5.3 update -A possible solution for those who have hard spinning fans!!!

Hey people!
I've been diggin around the internet for a solution to this problem... I couldn't find anything at all till I started to mess with my macbook around... I tried to reindex the spotlight by deleting the previous indexed list of files with an app called "spotless" but nothing happened. I even tried to reset the SMC - system management controller - but still nothing happened... I tried some other things out but I had come out unsuccessful TILL... I remembered myself to try all this out in safe mode....
This was so far the strangest thing I've ever experienced on a mac... by entering in safe mode the fans just started to ramp down and my laptop returned to what it used to be! Just that - entering on safe mode! After entering and after listening to the fans loosing speed, I rebooted in normal mode and my laptop was healthy again!
To start up into safe mode (to "Safe Boot"), do this:
- Be sure the computer is shut down.
- Press the power button.
- Immediately after you hear the startup tone, press and hold the Shift key.
Tip: The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone but not before.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple and progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
P.S. - if you get lucky with this procedure just reply me and spread the word!
Good luck!
Rui Caldeira
Message was edited by: Caldeira

Actually... it really solved the problem for me! My computer have sounded like a jet plane for the last couple of days. But I'm not sure if the only solution is to boot into safe mode. I recommend you to do like this:
1.) Remove the spotlight indexes and disable the service if you don't use it. You can use Spotless to do this. You find it here: http://mac.softpedia.com/progDownload/Spotless-Download-9834.html
2.) Reset the SMC. Om a MacBook, you turn the computer off and remove AC and the battery. Hold the power button for about 10 seconds. Insert the AC but NOT the battery and boot the computer. Shut it down and install the battery.
3.) After the SMC reset, boot the computer into safe mode by holding the shift key during boot up.
4.) Let the fans spin down in safe mode for a couple of minutes.
5.) Restart the computer into normal mode and the fans should now be spinning normally again!
This worked for me, but only in the order above!
/D

Possible hack for iMac not connecting at startup with WPA2

Hi,
Like many others whose iMacs fail to connect at restart or after waking from sleep, I've tried all the suggestions with no improvement.
Then I tried the following (this is AirPort specific, but other routers may have the same setting):
1. Open Airport Utility
2. Click the AirPort Icon
3. Click the Wireless tab
4. Click Wireless Network Options...
5. For WPA Group Key Timeout, change the popup from hours to days and enter e.g. 30 days
6. Click Done
7. Click Update and the AirPort will reboot.
After it comes back online, try rebooting your mac. YMMV, but if you're like me, the connect at startup issue will be fixed (at least for 30 days

Hi, this has worked for a few...
Make a New Location, Using network locations in Mac OS X ...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2712
10.7…
System Preferences>Network, top of window>Locations>Edit Locations, little plus icon, give it a name.
10.5.x/10.6.x/10.7.x instructions...
System Preferences>Network, click on the little gear at the bottom next to the + & - icons, (unlock lock first if locked), choose Set Service Order.
The interface that connects to the Internet should be dragged to the top of the list.
Instead of joining your Network from the list, click the WiFi icon at the top, and click join other network. Fill in everything as needed.
For 10.5/10.6, System Preferences>Network, unlock the lock if need be, highlight the Interface you use to connect to Internet, click on the advanced button, click on the DNS tab, click on the little plus icon, then add these numbers...
208.67.222.222
208.67.220.220
Click OK.
Also, turn off IPv6:
System Preferences » Network » AirPort » TCP/IP tab » Configure IPv6
Or whatever Interface you use.

Possible solution for problems printing with ICC profiles - esp. R2400

(N.B. This is long because I've decided to go in to details about the background of the problem etc.. Also note that whilst my experience is with the Epson R2400, anyone with problems printing using ICC profiles in Aperture may find this post helpful, as will be explained further down the post.)
Ok, here's the situation. I've been an Aperture user for over a year, and an R2400 owner for half a year. In that time I have done a huge amount of experimenting, but I've never managed to get Aperture to work perfectly with Epson's 'premium' R2400 ICC profiles - the ones you can download from their site which are better than the ones provided 'in the box'. This hasn't been too big a deal because, in fact, the R2400 does a rather good job just set to 'System Managed' in Aperture and 'Epson Vivid' with a gamma of 1.8 in the printer driver. Nevertheless, it really annoyed me that something that should work wasn't, which is why I've spent a lot of time trying to figure out what's going on. Having said that, I have come across a method which will give you pretty good prints out of your Epson R2400 using the premium profiles in Aperture - it's not perfect, but it's the best you're going to get if you want to use those profiles in Aperture. I understand the words 'it's not perfect' aren't what photography experts would probably want to hear, however, I have seen a few anguished posts from R2400 owners in here before, so I think some people may find it useful.
The whole reason why Aperture is hopeless at using the R2400's premium profiles is because - unusually - their default rendering intent is set to 'relative colorimetric' rather than 'perceptual'. You might say 'but that's good - it means you get more accurate colours!', and if you do, you're right... however, there's a snag. To get an image to reproduce well using Epson's premium profiles and relative colorimetric rendering, you really need to use black point compensation. This is where the trouble lies: Aperture's black point compensation is diabolical to the point of being unusable when used with relative colorimetric rendering - I feel I need to be awarded compensation every time I've ever tempted to use the setting. So because BPC in Aperture is unusable, that effectively makes the premium profiles unusable too, because Aperture always uses the default rendering intent specified in the profile.
The solution? Use perceptual rendering instead. Ok, so you can't change the rendering intent in Aperture, which makes that sound a tad difficult. However, as I said in the above paragraph, Aperture always obeys the default rendering intent specified in the profile... so you can see where we're going with this: we need to change the ICC profiles' default rendering intent from 'relative colorimetric' to 'perceptual'. I did some digging around and found one or two expensive pieces of software that could do that... but then I found that, lo and behold, the Mac OS has a command-line utility which can do the job for us, for precisely £0.00. It's called SIPS or 'Scriptable Image Processing System', and you can find out some information about it here: http://developer.apple.com/technotes/tn/tn2035.html#TNTAG58 For those who don't like reading technical jargon however, here's what you need to do to convert a profile's rendering intent. First go to terminal, then type in the following command:
sips -s renderingIntent perceptual
Do not press 'enter' yet. Instead, add a space after 'perceptual', find the ICC profile you want to modify, and click and drag it into the terminal window. You should then find that your command looks something like this:
sips -s renderingIntent perceptual /Users/yourname/folder/RandomProfile.ICC
At which point you can then press 'enter', and the command will execute, giving you an ICC profile which will now make Aperture use perceptual rendering.
There is just one further thing to be aware of after doing this: for some crazy reason, you then need to turn on BPC in Aperture for the prints to come out as good as possible. Black point compensation shouldn't make any difference when using perceptual rendering as the idea of perceptual is that it takes account of things like that anyway, however, in Aperture BPC does make a difference, so remember to turn it on to get a half decent print. In general, I find that prints made using this setup come out pretty well; they almost perfectly match prints made using the profiles with a perceptual intent in Photoshop Elements, except for the fact that Aperture blocks up the shadows a bit more than Photoshop. However, if you can live with that, you might find this is quite a workable solution.
Now, I said near the beginning of this post that all the above can apply to other printers too. Most printer profiles have 'perceptual' set as their default rendering intent, in which case everything I've just said won't be of much help. However, If you are reading this because you're having problems with ICC profiles in Aperture, but you don't use an Epson R2400, find your problematic ICC profile, double-click on it, and take a look at the window that opens: specifically, at the 'Rendering Intent' the window mentions. If it doesn't say 'Perceptual' then it may well be worth trying the steps I've outlined in this post to set it to perceptual, to see if doing so produces an improvement when using the profile in Aperture.
Finally, just one note of caution: if you decide to try out the steps I've detailed above on a paid-for custom-made profile, please back your profile up before messing with it. I haven't experienced any problems when using SIPS to change a profile's rendering intent, but I obviously can't guarantee that it won't do something weird and corrupt your expensive custom-made profile.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask, although (contrary to any impression I may give) I am not a colour-management expert; I'm just someone who doesn't give up when they have a problem that should be solvable.
Thomas
Mac Pro 2.0GHz with 30" ACD; 15" MacBook Pro 2.0GHz Mac OS X (10.4.10)

Thomas
Wow - thanks for such a comprehensive post.
I have Aperture and a 2400 so this information is exceptionally useful to me.
Again - thanks for caring and sharing
Brian

A possible workaround for C2D Airport problems?

A collegue advised the other day to download iStumbler, a free application that seems to sit and monitor all connections coming in your Airport, also for Bluetooth, Bonjour, etc.
Well, I did... and ever since this thing started to work seeing my Network wifi the airport bars has returned back to the maximum level and there has been no connection drops, re-connecting flawlessly after sleep.
Its funny also how iStumbler is able to see more Network wifis than the Airport menu: I see 2, sometimes 3 connections that I never saw on the Airport menu.
The signal is reported to be at 70% with a 13% noise. But working great!
Can someone with Airport problems try this solution and see if it works too? Maybe we are into something?
Regards,
-- Carlos

I had installed istumbler a couple of days ago it did seem to improve the signal for a period then the signal dropped back to the normal 4/5 bars.
After your post I started istumbler again and found there was an update the purports to solve signal problems with core 2 Duo macs.
I have updated and have full signal strength for last 5 minutes longer than ever before.
Fingers crossed

Possible solution for Windows printing - Incorrect permissions

We have an Epson CX6400 all-in-one printer attached via USB to a Mac.
The printer works fine after having to reinstall most of the print subsystem and drivers when upgrading from OS X 10.3 to 10.4.
We also have some Windows XP and Linux computers.
I'm using Bonjour for Windows XP to print, and prior to 10.3.9, it was working correctly. After subsequent upgrades, printing from OS X would work fine, but not from Windows.
Bonjour configures IPP printing using a generic Postcript driver that in term Mac OS X processes locally using the actual printer driver.
When printing from Windows, the printer queue would stop and I would have to manually delete the print job and restart the queue, before I could print anything.
Trying to figure it out, I checked /var/log/cups/error.log, and I'd invariably see the following when trying to print from Windows XP:
I [31/Jan/2006:22:49:56 -0500] Started filter /usr/libexec/cups/filter/pstopdffilter (PID 15403) for job 119.
I [31/Jan/2006:22:49:56 -0500] Started filter /System/Library/Printers/Libraries/PrintJobMgr/Contents/MacOS/PrintJobMgr (PID 15404) for job 119.
E [31/Jan/2006:22:49:56 -0500] PID 15403 stopped with status 1!
when running /usr/libexec/cups/filter/pstopdffilter manually from the console with what I thought would be the proper command (from the terminal, as root), it didn't die on me, and would rather show me debug information about the fonts being used on the intended document.
Solution:
(Note: I don't work for Apple and this can potentially create security issues, but it works as intended otherwise).
Using the console, go to /usr/libexec/cups/filter, as follows ($ is the prompt, type AFTER the prompt):
$ cd /usr/libexec/cups/filter
$ sudo chmod +s pstopdffilter
Sudo will ask for your password to temporarily gain root access.
This executable (pstopdffilter) is owned by root, so the command "chmod +s" makes the process running this command to run as root instead of whatever user process invokes it.
It shouldn't have to be run as root. Possibly the file/directory where it needs to write to has incorrect permissions.
Again, running these processes as root is not a good idea, and a malformed PS file might make it crash and possibly exploit something else. It's unlikely that this will happen, but just be warned.
E.
PowerBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Thomas
Wow - thanks for such a comprehensive post.
I have Aperture and a 2400 so this information is exceptionally useful to me.
Again - thanks for caring and sharing
Brian

A possible solution for pushing subscribed calendars to iOS devices

This one has been bugging me for a while and the solutions I've found here and elsewhere didn't work for me.
The problem: I subscribe to four sports schedules via iCloud. I have them set up on an iMac running 10.9.5 and all are configured as iCloud subscriptions. All events show up on the iMac and also on my MacBook. Events from two of those calendars would show up on my iOS devices. Two would not.
Looking into it today, I noticed that on the two that worked, the URL for the subscription (the "subscribed to" field when you do Get Info for the calendar on the Mac) is a URL that ends at the file suffix ".ics". The two that did not work had HTTP parameters that followed the ".ics" at the end (a '?' after ".ics" and a bunch of text following).
On the iMac, I tried removing the parameters so that the URLs ended in ".ics" for those two calendars. And just like that, all of the events now show up on my iOS devices.
Just thought I'd put this out there in case it is the same situation others are running into.

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