Possible solution for optical drive problems

I recently purchased a memorex cd/dvd lens cleaner at best buy and cleaned my drive with it. It now reads everything it wouldn't before. I haven't tested it but I imagine burn reliability is better too. For those that aren't having real troubles with their drive, you might try a dvd cleaner. My drive is a GWA4080MA. Disks that are now readable include TDK DVD-RW and +RW, Sony DVD+R DL, Sony DVD-R and Office Depot DVD+R DL.

A lens cleaner brought my drive back from the dead (according to Apple) so I second that suggestion.

Similar Messages

Buy my problem of camels Store Lee games possible solution for me my problem?

Buy my problem of camels Store Lee games possible solution for me my problem?

This worked for me, sort of. A while back when I downloaded that windows update that installed the new version of IE, I noticed that IE wouldn't connect to the internet and pages wouldn't load. However, I thought nothing of it because I use Firefox and FF was working just fine.
I went into IE earlier this evening (it still wasn't working) and tried to follow your recommended steps. I got up to step 4 and IE froze. I tried closing it, reopening it and repeating the steps but it would always freeze at step 4. In another thread, someone was saying that iTunes released a security update and that fixed the store for them so I tried opening Apple Software Update and that froze. I tried it several times, nothing. Would always freeze. I even tried updating thru iTunes and IT would freeze.
Finally, I went to the control panel and uninstalled IE7. The iTunes store and the Apple Software Update program are now working! So thank you very much for your suggestion. Otherwise, it may have never clicked with me that IE was the problem.
Windows XP

Possible solution for people having problems updating InDesign CC to 9.2.2 on Windows 7/8

So after InDesign CC x64 (x32 version seemed fine?) giving me constant update failed errors and about four different error codes each different way I tried to fix it, I decided to find out why, like many I have been getting this in my Install log.
FATAL: Payload 'Adobe InDesign CC x64 Application Language Files_9.2.1.101_AdobeInDesign9AppLang64-en_US 8.0.0.15 {35937D37-6FF2-1014-BDC2-9CD1656E73E4}' information not found in Media_db.
Reinstalling via Control Panel or the CC Cleaner tool did nothing to remedy the situation and the same error kept occurring, even though CC is meant to download the language files (apparently)
However, what I thought was odd was the fact that it references 9.2.1 not 9.2.2. It seems Adobe CC installs InDesign CC 9.2.1 from a fresh install but then fails on the 9.2.2 patch, but it seems 9.2.1 itself is either corrupted or something doesn't go right with the language packs as the error above shows.
SOLUTION: Manually install both the 9.2.1 and 9.2.2 patches.
Get them from here: http://prodesigntools.com/adobe-cc-updates-direct-links-windows.html
Both will be named setup.zip, so rename them to something like setup_9.2.1 and setup_9.2.2 and extract both zip archives.
Install the 9.2.1 patch followed by the 9.2.2 patch, reboot and Creative Cloud should stop whining. It worked for me on Windows 8.1, open up InDesign > Help > About InDesign and check the version, it should be 9.2.2.
PROFIT.
Hope this works for others. Hopefully Adobe fix this in a CC app update, as this had me going in circles for a while.

Hello,
This solution worked for me.
I was encountering the Error Code — U44M1P34.
This error occurred when Creative Cloud Manager notified me of the InDesign CC 9.2.2 update.
I tried almost everything, removing / uninstalling the program, removing / uninstalling all the programs, deleting all the left behind folders of the programs, re-downloading them from Creative Cloud Manager and even trying manually to install the 9.2.2 update.
Thank you.
Andreas

PrintWindow api with possible solution for capture screenshot Google Chrome window

Hi,
as all you know, PrintWindow api give us a black image when us want a capture screenshot of Google Chrome window. So, a friend said me that a possible solution for this problem is:
Reduce Google Chrome window for -1px in both sides and after this, reset to original size. And so, will repaint again.
Based on code below, someone could help me make this? sincerely I don't know where begin.
[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
static extern IntPtr FindWindow(string lpClassName, string lpWindowName);
[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
static extern IntPtr FindWindowEx(IntPtr hwndParent, IntPtr hwndChildAfter, string lpszClass, string lpszWindow);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern IntPtr GetDC(IntPtr WindowHandle);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern void ReleaseDC(IntPtr WindowHandle, IntPtr DC);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern IntPtr GetWindowRect(IntPtr WindowHandle, ref Rect rect);
[DllImport("User32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
[return: MarshalAs(UnmanagedType.Bool)]
static extern bool PrintWindow(IntPtr hwnd, IntPtr hDC, uint nFlags);
[StructLayout(LayoutKind.Sequential)]
private struct Rect
public int Left;
public int Top;
public int Right;
public int Bottom;
public static Bitmap Capture(IntPtr handle)
Rect rect = new Rect();
GetWindowRect(handle, ref rect);
Bitmap Bmp = new Bitmap(rect.Right - rect.Left, rect.Bottom - rect.Top);
Graphics memoryGraphics = Graphics.FromImage(Bmp);
IntPtr dc = memoryGraphics.GetHdc();
bool success = PrintWindow(handle, dc, 0);
memoryGraphics.ReleaseHdc(dc);
return Bmp;
private void button1_Click(object sender, EventArgs e)
IntPtr WindowHandle = FindWindowEx(IntPtr.Zero, IntPtr.Zero, "Chrome_WidgetWin_1", null);
Bitmap BMP = Capture(WindowHandle);
BMP.Save("C:\\Foo.bmp");
BMP.Dispose();
Any suggestions here is appreciated.

Hello,
I would prefer capture the screen rather than get it from that application directly.
It has been discussed in the following thread.
Is there any way to hide Chrome window and capture a screenshot or convert the Chrome window to image?
In this case, you could remove the line "ShowWindowAsync(mainHandle, 0); " since you don't want to hide it.
using System;
using System.Runtime.InteropServices;
using System.Diagnostics;
using System.Drawing.Imaging;
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern bool ShowWindowAsync(IntPtr hWnd, int nCmdShow);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
public static extern bool GetWindowRect(IntPtr hWnd, out RECT lpRect);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
public static extern bool PrintWindow(IntPtr hWnd, IntPtr hdcBlt, int nFlags);
public WhateverMethod()
//initialize process and get hWnd
Process chrome = Process.Start("chrome.exe","http://www.cnn.com");
//wait for chrome window to open AND page to load (important for process refresh)
//you might need to increase the sleep time for the page to load or monitor the "loading" title on Chrome
System.Threading.Thread.Sleep(4000);
chrome.Refresh();
IntPtr mainHandle = chrome.MainWindowHandle;
RECT rc;
GetWindowRect(mainHandle, out rc);
Bitmap bmp = new Bitmap(rc.Width, rc.Height, PixelFormat.Format32bppArgb);
Graphics gfxBmp = Graphics.FromImage(bmp);
IntPtr hdcBitmap = gfxBmp.GetHdc();
PrintWindow(mainHandle, hdcBitmap, 0);
gfxBmp.ReleaseHdc(hdcBitmap);
gfxBmp.Dispose();
bmp.Save("c:\\temp\\test.png", ImageFormat.Png);
ShowWindowAsync(mainHandle, 0);
[StructLayout(LayoutKind.Sequential)]
public struct RECT
private int _Left;
private int _Top;
private int _Right;
private int _Bottom;
public RECT(RECT Rectangle)
: this(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Right, Rectangle.Bottom)
public RECT(int Left, int Top, int Right, int Bottom)
_Left = Left;
_Top = Top;
_Right = Right;
_Bottom = Bottom;
public int X
get { return _Left; }
set { _Left = value; }
public int Y
get { return _Top; }
set { _Top = value; }
public int Left
get { return _Left; }
set { _Left = value; }
public int Top
get { return _Top; }
set { _Top = value; }
public int Right
get { return _Right; }
set { _Right = value; }
public int Bottom
get { return _Bottom; }
set { _Bottom = value; }
public int Height
get { return _Bottom - _Top; }
set { _Bottom = value + _Top; }
public int Width
get { return _Right - _Left; }
set { _Right = value + _Left; }
public Point Location
get { return new Point(Left, Top); }
set
_Left = value.X;
_Top = value.Y;
public Size Size
get { return new Size(Width, Height); }
set
_Right = value.Width + _Left;
_Bottom = value.Height + _Top;
public static implicit operator Rectangle(RECT Rectangle)
return new Rectangle(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Width, Rectangle.Height);
public static implicit operator RECT(Rectangle Rectangle)
return new RECT(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Right, Rectangle.Bottom);
public static bool operator ==(RECT Rectangle1, RECT Rectangle2)
return Rectangle1.Equals(Rectangle2);
public static bool operator !=(RECT Rectangle1, RECT Rectangle2)
return !Rectangle1.Equals(Rectangle2);
public override string ToString()
return "{ + _Left + "; " + " + _Top + "; Right: " + _Right + "; Bottom: " + _Bottom + "}";
public override int GetHashCode()
return ToString().GetHashCode();
public bool Equals(RECT Rectangle)
return Rectangle.Left == _Left && Rectangle.Top == _Top && Rectangle.Right == _Right && Rectangle.Bottom == _Bottom;
public override bool Equals(object Object)
if (Object is RECT)
return Equals((RECT)Object);
else if (Object is Rectangle)
return Equals(new RECT((Rectangle)Object));
return false;
And the key method used is the one shared in
Get a screenshot of a specific application.
Regards,
Carl
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GT70 2OC Optical drive problem.

I encountered a problem with my optical drive, it don´t want to read (detect) original disks, everything from games to office cd´s and dvd´s makes problems. I have to reinsert the medium repeatetly, it takes two to five tries to make it work. Thing that frustrate me most is that my backup disks (the burned ones) works right away. Any ideas ?
1) I did try to clean optics on week old laptop with computer duster, and it did nothing as there were no dust in OD.
2) I guess problem is with security system on original disks. I remeber this isa problem sometimes , and it usually gets fixed by FW update for optical drive. Bud I couldn´t find any.
Does anyone have the same issue ?

I have an older GT70 (446US, not the newer 2OC version) and all disks worked fine with it, even after upgrading to Windows 8.
I would contact MSI Support and see what they recommend.
>>How to contact MSI.<<

Tried the posted solution for the RETR problem and it works once then it returns. How do you make the change permanent?

Tried the posted solution for the RETR problem and it works once then it returns. Once the email dl'ds the file deleted per the instructions returns. How do you make the change permanent?

Hi DOC808HI
# I don't know what you mean by "posted RETR solution". Could you please post a link to the suggested solution? Perhaps you are referring to this thread: https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/questions/991792 ?
# Anyhow any further troubleshooting information you can provide will be great e.g. Your Operating System Version (XP, 7, Mac OS X Mavericks), your anti-virus if any, your mail provider, your ISP, what you did, what happened with exact error message, what happened
Cheers!
...Roland

A possible solution for the folder exclamation or folder! problem

This worked for Windows XP. Don't know if it will work for the Mac but it may.
Three days ago my wife’s iPod, 4th gen 40gb, stopped working. I got the folder exclamation icon (or folder! as some have described it). I hooked it to my laptop and had no joy with it. The system (XP) would see it sometimes as a removable and sometimes as a hard drive. Disk Manager saw it a couple of times but it always took about an hour for it to show up. I messed with it about 5 hours the first night and then decided to take it to the Apple Store the next day. The guys at the Genius Bar had the same problem, this time on a Mac. Told me it was out of warranty and that the best I could do was find someone who could repair it. I’m a tech and I don’t want to mess with it but I’m not going to pay someone $200+ to replace what is essentially a laptop hard drive. So I kept plugging away and researching on the net. I’ve seen a lot of posts concerning the icon as well as a few concerning the partitioning of the drive. I’ve even seen where some people are advocating opening the iPod and shaking the drive which is never a good idea. Nothing really seemed to help so I kept working on it myself.
I did find a solution and it takes a bit of time. It involves deleting the current partition and formatting it again. Since I’m using this on XP I had to format the partition as a Fat32. In order to do this I had to use the Knoppix operating system because Microsoft limited XP’s ability to format Fat32 partitions to 32GB. If you have an iPod that is less than 32gb you may be able to just format it using XP. I also couldn’t get XP to delete the partition so using Knoppix worked out very well since it has a program called QTParted on it that works like Partition Magic. Knoppix is free and does not have to be installed. It runs entirely off of your CDRom drive. If you have about an hour to try this I’d be interested in whether it works for anyone else.
I believe the problem that most people are having comes from the fact that the Fat32 file system is not good for keeping a “clean” hard drive. It tends to leave bits and pieces around and if you update a lot it can affect the hard drive’s performance. I know that Restoring using the updater is supposed to fix this but it appears that the updater software does a quick format. That won’t always fix the problem. By following what I did you will blow away the existing partition and create a new one and format it to the Fat32. This effectively makes it a “clean” hard drive.
Before I walk you through this I just wanted to say that I’ve purposely blown my wife’s iPod away 4 times to make sure that this works. Works like new now and did so after each time I blew it away. You should have seen her face when I did it.
The things you will need and need to do are:
CD Burner (you need to be able to create a disk from an ISO Image
Blank CD
Download a copy of Knoppix 4.0 from http://www.knoppix.com
Download the current version of iPod updater http://www.apple.com/iPod/download/
Make sure your system can boot from CD-Rom (Check your system docs)
About an hour of your time
1. Using your software of choice, burn the Knoppix image to your CD.
2. Place your iPod in Disk Mode. You do that by resetting the iPod and , on 4th gen at least, once it resets immediately hold down the Select+Play/Pause buttons. You should see it say Disk Mode at the top of your screen. Not sure how to do that on other iPods but I figure if you’ve gotten this far you will be able to figure it out.
2. Shut your system down and place the Knoppix cd in your cdrom. Make sure your system will boot from CD
Note: If you are using a laptop you may not be able to use the mouse by default with Knoppix. You can try to enable it when you first start Knoppix. You do this by typing the following at the Boot: prompt.
Knoppix pci=irqmask=0x0e98
If that doesn’t work for you then you may need to hook another mouse to your laptop.
3. Once Knoppix is up go to the K button (located like the start button on XP) and go to the system group. You will see a program called QTParted. Start that program.
4. On the left of the QTParted screen you will see the hard drives on your system. One of them should be your iPod. It should say something like /dev/sda1. Click on that device. In the bottom on the left side for Drive Info I was given the information that it was an Apple iPod and the capacity. Don’t know if everyone will get that but it stands to reason that you should.
5. You should now see the iPod’s partition information on the right side of the screen. I don’t know about anyone else’s but my wife’s had 37mb free and that turned out to be important. Make a note of any unallocated space you may have and keep it for the next step. Highlight the partition and then delete it. Once deleted you will need to go to the upper left corner of the screen. There is a button there to Commit changes that you have made. Click on this button and wait for the process to end.
6. Now to create a new partition. In the right panel right click again on the drive. Select create partition. It will ask you what type of partition you want to create. Select Fat32 and where it gives you the option for the partition size, use the slide bar to leave the amount of space free that was unallocated in step 5. The reason for this is that when I first partitioned my wife’s I used all of the available space and the iPod didn’t like it. Once you have the size set hit OK (or whatever it is to continue). Go again to the upper right and hit the Commit button. Wait for the changes to happen and then shutdown your system, remove the Knoppix cd and then boot again as normal.
7. Once your system has rebooted start the iPod updater. Once it asks you to plug in your iPod connect your iPod and you should be able to Restore it.
As I said I did this 4 times to make sure it worked and each time both the updater and iTunes saw the iPod with no problems.
At this point you should have your iPod back up and running. I apologize if I haven’t been very detailed here but I’m at work and typing this from memory. I wanted to get this out now while I’m thinking about it because I’m getting ready to go away for a couple of months and won’t have time to do this at home.
Let me know if this works for anyone.
Windows XP Pro
Windows XP Pro

mythic: You do NOT have to use FAT32. You don't even have to delete and recreate the partition. All you have to do is format the hard drive of the iPod. That's it. Your procedure will work even if you format the new partition as NTFS.
But don't take my word for it. Try it yourself.
I've done this exact same thing a hundred times, and I never used Knoppix to do it. All you have to do is:
1. Force the iPod into Disk Mode as described here: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651 (note that there's a different procedure for 3G and older iPod's!)
2. Start the iPod Updater (on an XP box). Having the Updater open will prevent iTunes from auto-launching and trying to screw around with the iPod.
3. Connect the iPod. It'll show up as a normal drive letter on the PC (if the PC crashes at this point, that's a Windows specific problem, not an iPod one).
4. Use the Disk Management tool (located in Control Panel->Admin Tools->System Management) to format. Doing this as NTFS is perfectly fine. Do not do a quick format.
5. After the format, go back to the updater and hit Restore.
It works every time. I've posted this like a thousand times, but nobody ever seems to pay attention.
Why does it work? It's simple, really. The Updater's Restore process is broken if there are bad sectors in certain locations. Formatting the iPod's partition like that causes it to do a scan for bad sectors. That's why the format takes so long (quick format skips this scan). The reason NTFS works fine is because one of the things the restore process actually does is to rewrite the iPod's partition table, and in the process it converts that NTFS space back into a FAT32 space. So really it makes no difference what that partition is, Restore will overwrite it anyway.
For information's sake, what the Restore process actually does is to write a disk image onto the iPod's drive. This disk image itself is tricky, but the Restore procedure is not particularly complex. You can even extract that image and write it to the iPod yourself in Linux using dd. That works just as well.
Anyway, when the drive won't write to a specific sector, then the Restore program freaks out. Formatting will remap the unwritable sectors and fix the problem. It's the bad sector remapping that's important here, not the partition layout or the filesystem type. Fix the drive problem and the Restore will work.

Possible solution for headphone problems with Mac Mini

A month or two ago, I posted a question about problems I was having with getting earphones and earbuds to work with my mid-2010 Mac Mini. I just wanted to share the (quite simple) solution that solved my problem.
My problem: I couldn't get any earphones or earbuds to work with my Mini, despite my trying several different sets. Finally I took my Mini into the local Apple store.
Solution: Though it was not stated in any Apple support literature or postings online, the solution was to push the mini-jack into the audio out port until the mini-jack clicked. I was just being too cautious. I was pushing the mini-jacks into the port (which were in the back of the Mini, so I couldn't get a good handle on what I was doing, since the Mini's back was facing away from me). I wrongly thought I'd pushed as far as the jack(s) should go. Not so. I should have pushed harder until there was a 'click' and the mini-jack was all the way in. Once that was done, no problem.
Chalk it up to my stupidity or to a lack of detail in Apple's support and help literature, but that was the solution. I hope this helps others with similar audio out issues.

Thanks for the response but I think maybe you missed part of my post. The keyboard works fine with my mac book and with my son's macbook. The keyboard is actually working right now. It has been a problem with shut down and then strart up. I think that I went through all those other SMC and PRAM efforts with Apple support and actually many others and they were completely stumped. I think that this is a complicated problem for which there may only be a work around but I am hopeful that the next time I shut down, it will work. I appreciate ideas but if my 4 or 5 hours with Apple support cannot help, I do not believe this is going to be a simple solution but if someone has encountered this or something similar, I would welcome their ideas. I have gone to the Apple Store in Madison, WI on several occasions and unfortunately I often know more than the people that help me so I am reluctant to go there and to trust the staff at the genius bar. For example, I recently purchased and Apple watch and the first person that helped me did not know how to turn it on and the second person did not know it came with two different length bands, and I once bought a case for my iphone and the person who helped me was more interested in the color than in the functionality of the case. I could go on but I am not confident in the competence of the staff there so I am hoping that someone in the support community can help me.

Second optical drive problem

New to macs after a 14 year hiatus. I recently installed a new pioneer BDR-205 blu-ray drive as a second lower drive in my mac pro 2009 running SL and fully updated. The original first upper drive is a model HL-DT-ST DVD-RW GH41N. Pioneer and OWC both confirmed that the new drive would be plug and play. After proper installation, I confirmed that both drives could at least play a dvd.
But after using the computer for a while and then trying to open the new blu ray drive, the eject won't open it, rather eject only opens the upper first drive. The new drive shows in the system profiler but not the disk utility or anywhere else. When I click on the eject icon at top right of screen, that action hangs for a while. When it resolves itself, only the upper primary drive is available to eject. Clicking alt + eject on keyboard temporarily shows the eject symbol on screen but either does nothing or opens/closes the wrong top drive. I reboot, use the computer for a few hours, try it again to check it but the same problem exists.
FYI- I've researched other similar help threads everywhere and I don't see any options for "cable select," jumper options or the like with this new drive.
Any ideas?

I have a similar problem with the Pioneer 205 blu-ray burner in my Mac Pro (2009). It would disappear after a period of time but then eject would fail and the drive became non-responsive. Typically it would be less than half an hour before the drive would disappear. Changing Energy Saver preferences made no difference.
Also, restarting doesn't bring the drive back, but shutting down and restarting from cold does.
Alone, this isn't so bad, as the drive's failure doesn't stop the system from working — I just need to shut down and restart to use blu-ray. But I think I've found a solution. To stop the drive falling asleep in the first place, I'm using this AppleScript, running in AppleScript Editor for now:
repeat
do shell script "drutil info"
delay 28
end repeat
So, every 28 seconds, the optical drives are polled. A delay of 120 seconds was too long, but it's been a few hours now and the drive is still responsive. I'll leave it running overnight; if it's still good in the morning I think we can chalk this up as a useful workaround.
Obviously, a Pioneer or Apple firmware fix would be better. I've had something similar with a Samsung hard drive — it would fall asleep and not come back after 20 minutes — but that was far worse, as it locked up the Finder. This is benign by comparison, though perhaps indicative of a fussy SATA problem in the Mac Pros?
Hope this script helps someone out.

Mac Pro optical drive problems

I have a 2009 Mac Pro and have been having problems with optical drives I've installed in the lower bay. I initially installed a Toshiba drive that had Lightscribe technology, as I needed this for my wife's business and my Lacie external Lightscribe drive finally died. This drive worked great except for a loud "click, click" noise that it made every few minutes when not in use. I had originally attributed this noise to a hard drive starting or stopping but after repeated attempts to isolate the drive were unsuccessful, I resorted to using my old mechanic's stethescope and the noise seemed to be coming from the lower optical drive. I confirmed this by opening its tray and leaving it open which got rid of the noise. It was a very annoying noise, easily heard in my bedroom across the hall when the machine was asleep (and I wasn't). I decided to change it out for a Blu-Ray drive as the prices had come down out of the stratosphere. I bought a Pioneer drive from OWC and after having it disappear and reapper on me, behavior verified as a problem by checking these boards, I exchanged it for an LG unit. This one works fine and seems to stay recognized by the Apps that use it but a "click" is back. This occurs with about the same frequency as the Toshiba but is a single click and is much quieter. There is no periodic noise from the factory Superdrive. Someone suggested somewhere that this could be caused by Spotlight trying to access the drive. This doesn't seem logical as the noise only happens when there is no disk mounted. Would there be any software that would periodically "ping" the optical drive, even when the system was asleep? I can live with the noise from this one but am still curious if others have had this problem, and may have come up with a solution. Thanks, Ted
The drive installed now is an LG model number: WH12LS39KMP, the previous noisy drive was a Toshiba SH-S223

Repeated starting and stopping hard drives is not a good idea, and should be limited to laptops running on battery power. With most, the heads rub on the discs while starting or stopping. Drives specs usually allow only 25,000 to 50,000 starts. Temperature changes between running and sleeping puts stress on electronics, and can cause earlier failures. Also the starting current stresses the motur circuitry.
Apple optical drives have special firmware. If you look in the "ATA" section of "System Profiler" (Utilities folder) you should see that the Apple supplied drive supports "Low Power Polling". This may be why Apple optical drives don't have problems with drive sleep mode.

975X PowerUp--setting up PATA RAID0 and 2 optical drives (Problem Solved)

Hi, all. Revamping my existing system extensively and need some help.
I have 2 optical drives and 2 hard drives. I want to have the optical drives set up as master/slave on one IDE cable and the 2 hard drives set up as a RAID array on a second IDE cable. I did it on my old mobo but is this possible with the 975X Platinum PowerUp?
The manual says that IDE1 can support a master and slave, but that IDE2 only supports a master. However, I know this to be false because IDE2 is the slot that the JMicron RAID controller governs. I can manage to set up a RAID0 array with both HDDs master/slaved and plugged into IDE2. However, the optical drives in IDE1 are not recognized if I do this. I can get the system to recognize the optical drives if I plug them into IDE2... They work, but are incorrectly recognized by the JMicron portion of system post as a RAID array. I can't install Windows on the RAID array because so far the system won't access the optical drives without them being on IDE2--which I need for JMicron to control the RAID array. You can see how this would cause trouble. Is there some way that I can go into the BIOS and tell the system that IDE1 is the optical drives?
I have looked in the manual and on websites. Nobody seems to have the same problem. I know that I am a bit behind the times by not having a CD-RW/DVD-RW combo drive, but even having only the one device would not solve the problem of devices on IDE1 not being recognized by the system. This sounds like it should be possible to set up correctly, but because of the unfamiliarity of the motherboard and the complexity of the BIOS in relation to my last one, I know I am not doing something right. I hope I've made the situation clear enough to make sense to other people!
Any suggestions?

Since it is a fresh install, the only drivers that are installed are the ones that came on the Windows XP SP2 CD and the JMicron RAID drivers that I slipstreamed in. However, the directory structure and instructions for use weren't very clear in the .zip file that the RAID drivers came in. It says:
"For floppy install:
Please copy all the directories and files in the "floppy" folder to the root directory of a floppy disk to create a pre-install disk for Win2K/WinXP/Win2003/WinXP 64bits/Win2003 64bits.
For example,
A:\amd64
\x32
txtsetup.oem"
Well, my power supply does not have a connector for a floppy drive, which is why I was installing the RAID drivers with a slipstreamed XP CD. However, in the actual .zip file, there is no "floppy" folder! There are 4 subdirectories: Application, Driver, Floppy32 and Floppy64. The Driver directory has 2 subdirectories: amd64 and x32. I didn't understand whether I was supposed to use the files in the Driver/x32 folder, or the ones in the Floppy32 folder.
I ended up slipstreaming the files from the Floppy32 folder because it seemed to make the most sense according to the instructions. However, I noticed both in nLite and when Windows was actually preparing setup that multiple RAID drivers were found in and loaded from this directory, whereas in the Driver/x32 folder, nLite detected only one set of RAID drivers. Did I use the wrong directory to get the JMicron RAID drivers when I made the slipstreamed XP CD? Or do you think there is a different problem?

Lion optical drive problems

Since I switched to Lion on my Mac Pro, some DVD dics (Blank and commericial DVDs) cause the drive to freeze. The disc does not mount and cannot be ejected. The only way to get the disc out is to restart the computer. After restart the disc will mount and behaves normally. It does not happen every time, but is very annoying. The same optical drive (Apple installed Super Drive) never had this problem when running Snow Leopard. Is it possible that I need some sort of firmware update?

You may have an issue with your system software. I haven't observed such an issue on my Mac Pro's two optical drives.
Consider reinstalling Lion via internet recovery which should install 10.7.3.
Reinstalling Lion Without the Installer
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alterhatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You can also re-download the Lion installer by opening the App Store application. Hold down the OPTION key and click on the Purchases icon in the toolbar. You should now see an active Install button to the right of your Lion purchase entry. There are situations in which this will not work. For example, if you are already booted into the Lion you originally purchased with your Apple ID or if an instance of the Lion installer is located anywhere on your computer.

Unusual optical drive problem: Seeking advice.

The issue with my optical drive is not that it refuses to accept a CD, but rather it writes (visible) rings of inactive songs onto my audio disks. For a while, I tolerated the two or three songs in the middle of my CD that didn't play music, but the rings are getting wider and more songs are lost. My warranty is a good deal past expired, and I'm wondering if there is an affordable solution to my problem. I love music, and (remarkably) I prefer CDs to scrolling through my phone or iPod while driving. I have read several community posts and endless tech advice, but none of it seems to pertain to this specific MacBook affliction. Is this an issue that "cleaning" can solve, or will I have to go ahead and replace the entire optical drive? What else could be causing this problem, and how should I proceed?
Regards,
Abigail

Hi,
thanks for the quick reply - I have followed some of the steps here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2801
reset the PRAM and SMC unit. The problem is that the description says:
"The disc-insert cycle runs the motor for about 6 seconds."
My disk inserts (when it is about 3/4 in, the load mechanism takes it in all the way) but does not spin for any time. I hear an attempt, then
the drive spits the disk out.
Looking at this forum, I tried to blow some air inside the drive, no difference
and have found this:
http://muzso.hu/2008/08/17/how-to-clean-the-lens-of-a-slot-loading-optical-drive -a-macbook-pros-superdrive
which is mostly related to cleaning the lens while my problem is with the drive not spinning.
Do I need to open up the superdrive??
Also, thanks for the tip on AHT!
Message was edited by: qwertyu

Satellite M645 S4070 optical drive problem

I have used my laptop for a year without problem.
Last weekend, i just noticed that my optical drive did not work any more. When I put a DVD in, the drive indicator light flashed for couple seconds, then off.
I checked device manager, the system shows the optical drive information, but with a exclamation mark which means sth is wrong.
I uninstalled the driver and restarted my laptop. It shows that the driver was not properly installed.
By the way, I believe that I already disabled ODD power on/off utility. I use windows 7.
Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi Peter,
I am having the same trouble as numerous others have mentioned on the board. I have a Satellite L635 running Windows 7 and although I have had it for just about a year now, I have had no problems with the CD/DVD drive (very little used BTW) until today. I've searched the boards and have done everything suggested...I already had all my power options where they should be (except my model does *not* have one specific for the optical drive--just the cooling method and FN Tab doesn't work on my model either), so I tried to uninstall the power saver, rebooted, and it didn't work. I tried MS Fixit and it didn't work. I went to the run command prompt and typed in regedit like another post suggested and went through those directions. All I had listed was upper filter, so I deleted that, rebooted, and found that it messed with my iTunes settings. I had to install the lastest version of that anyways, so now, 7 hours later after the drive first took a crap, my iTunes is still giving me the message that "The registry settings used by the iTunes drivers for importing and burning CDs and DVDs are missing. This can happen as a result of installing other CD burning software. Please reinstall iTunes."
After I had done the bulk of all of the suggestions, I rebooted and I was able to get info off of one disc, but then it crapped out again part-way through the second one. Any other suggestions???

Optical drive problems after upgrade to Tiger 10.4.10

I've just had my machine updated to Tiger 10.4.10 after having two new hard drives installed after a hard drive failure. I'm now having issues with burning data for backup purposes.
I can't burn anything with Mac OS Disc Burner utility, it doesn't seem to recognize blank disc's DVD's or CD's. It keeps telling me to load a disc when one is already in the drive.
System profiler recognizes CD-R's & DVD-R's when they are in the optical drive
I can burn with Toast Titanium ver 6.0.3 DVD's & CD's. The burned CD's will mount. The burned DVD's will not mount.
I have checked the burned DVD's in the optical drive of my iBook G4 Mac OS 10.3.9 and they mount on it fine.
Movie DVD's will mount & play. Software DVD's will mount and load applications.
I have cleaned the drive with a cleaning disc.
The Optical Drive was working fine before the upgrade, so what is the problem?
I can only assume two problems now!
1.) the optical drive has a physical malfunction
2.) there is a software issue between Tiger 10.4.10 & this optical drive (this is my favorite at the moment)
The upgrade was done by an Apple Authorised Service Provider they say there are no issues with Tiger & the optical drive.
So any ideas or help would be much appreciated.
Machine Name: Power Mac G5
Machine Model: PowerMac7,2
CPU Type: PowerPC 970 (2.2)
Number Of CPUs: 2
CPU Speed: 1.8 GHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB
Memory: 1.5 GB
Bus Speed: 900 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 5.1.5f0
PIONEER DVD-RW DVR-106D:
Model: PIONEER DVD-RW DVR-106D
Revision: A606
Serial Number: DBDL909690WL
Detachable Drive: No
Protocol: ATAPI
Unit Number: 0
Socket Type: Internal
PIONEER DVD-RW DVR-106D:
Firmware Revision: A606
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipped/Supported)
Cache: 2000 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -RW, +R, +RW
Burn Underrun Protection CD: Yes
Burn Underrun Protection DVD: Yes
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, CD-Raw, DVD-DAO
Media: No

I'm having a similar problem. I bought my G5 with Panther OS on it a few years ago. The DVD drive functioned perfectly back then. Then I upgraded to Tiger this past year which caused the DVD drive to open later..that is, I'd have to hold down the eject button for a good 2 or 3 seconds before it would open or close. Previously it responded instantly. Now what happens more and more is it can't read DVD-ROM disks that it has burned. My imac G4 with Jaguar has no trouble reading the disks but Tiger 10.4.9 and 10.4.10 simply refuse to mount DVD ROM disks that it burned.
I'm trying to make a duplicate DVD of the offending disk on my single-processor G4 and then put THAT disk into the G5 so it can read the info. Hopefully that will be my work-around.
It's got to be a software issue and I keep hoping the Apple wiz kids will put out an update to remedy this. Something's fishy with the DVD drive programming.

Possible solution for optical drive problems

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