Possible USB/Battery problem?

I bought my ipod in June of last year, and it was working fine until October-ish, but my computer had a loose wire and switched itself off. My ipod then started to overheat a great deal, and since then I've not been able to switch it on, nor has the computer been able to recognise when the ipod was connected to the computer.
Any help?

That is enough to fix it if it is just a firmware problem, which you better hope it is lol. If its anything else, you prolly will have to get it looked at. I would like to know what the testing process is when they receive your product? I snet mine in and they got it, but its not tested, also it shows the zen and the zen battery, too. I duno if I was suppose to take the battery out before sending it in.

Similar Messages

USB - battery problem

Hi all, I hope someone will be able to help me, I'm in panic
I bought my iPod Nano on CES this January, and yesterday evening something went wrong. I tried to charge it through USB on my PC, and I just flickered, lights turned on and off, got "USB device malfunctioning" in my toolbar and that was that...
Then I tried the same thing through power adapter, but once again, only lights went on and then off and nothing... :((((
I came to work this morning, plugged it to my office PC, it started charging, I was confused, but happy to see it work and after 10 minutes I heard repeated beep sound from my iPod and it said something "battery or power supply not functioning blah, blah..." or something similar, then it went off, graphic appeared on screen (big black battery half charged and a lightening) and nothing...
It's disconnected now, I don't want to make any more mess, untill I find out what can be wrong.
HELP PLEASE!
iPod Nano 2GB Windows XP

If it was bought defective is it possible that problem appears after 6 months?
I am sure I charged it properly from the first time, cause that's something I pay attention to with everything I buy new, starting with mobile phones, but who knows.
I took it to service few minutes ago, couldn't wait for them to start working, and they said they will give me their verdict on my iPod in an hour or so...
I'm only afraid that it might be some electric shock that came directly from installations at home, and that it burned something inside...
If that's the case, I'm ready to say goodbye...

Tactic 3d Rage Wireless Possible USB Transmitter Problem

Hi guys,
It is my 3rd rage wireless replacement (mini usb charging entrance were broken on the previous two).
So after unboxing it again, unfortunately I went to firmware page and upgraded the firmwares both usb transmitter and headphones. Nothing went wrong until I try to re pair the headphones with the usb transmitter.
Headphones are working with every buttons on it, it also gets into pairing mode (with fast blinking red lights). However the usb transmitter does nothing when I hold the connect button, it blinks normal instead of rapidly (as stated in the manual).
I tried everything and read many threads but could not find similar problem. I do not think that it is bricked but please help me if it is possible to fix this problem.
Yes it is ridiculous that a simple firmware upgrade is destroying such an expensive product. Shame on you creative!
Many thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by Xotli
Hi guys,
It is my 3rd rage wireless replacement (mini usb charging entrance were broken on the previous two).
So after unboxing it again, unfortunately I went to firmware page and upgraded the firmwares both usb transmitter and headphones. Nothing went wrong until I try to re pair the headphones with the usb transmitter.
Headphones are working with every buttons on it, it also gets into pairing mode (with fast blinking red lights). However the usb transmitter does nothing when I hold the connect button, it blinks normal instead of rapidly (as stated in the manual).
I tried everything and read many threads but could not find similar problem. I do not think that it is bricked but please help me if it is possible to fix this problem.
Yes it is ridiculous that a simple firmware upgrade is destroying such an expensive product. Shame on you creative!
Many thanks in advance.
Hi Xotli,
Do you encounter any error(s) during the firmware update of the headset and the USB transmitter?
Do not connect it to the USB hub. At any one time, the headset and USB transmitter cannot connect together during firmware update; only separate update is allowed.
Here's the instructions given for updating USB transmitter via Windows:
- Download the file onto your local hard disk.
- Ensure that your Sound Blaster Tactic3D Rage Wireless Transmitter is connected to your computer.
- Ensure that the Sound Blaster Tactic3D Rage Wireless Headset is removed from your computer.
- Un-compress the downloaded file to a folder in your local hard disk.
- Double-click <SBTR_PCFW_US_TX_1_59_140721.exe> from the folder which stores the uncompressed files.
- Follow the instructions on the screen.
- After the installation of the firmware is completed, unplug and plug in your transmitter and start pairing with the Sound Blaster Tactic3D Rage Wireless headset again.
Cheers,
JL-CL

Possible CMOS Battery problem with my Satellite 1405-s151

I have a satellite 1405-s151. Since July it won't start. when i turn it on the green lignts is on but nothing else happens. however it sometimes starts with a bad checksum (ROM) or Cmos error.
someone told me that it could be a dead the cmos battery.
what u think about this ? i live in senegal and there is no toshiba center

Hi
I don't think this is a problem with the CMOS-battery. If it is defective or has a low voltage, the machine will give this error message, BUT it will never have a problem booting up because of it. A defective battery will make the system lose track of time and date and possibly some settings You might have made in the SETUP but when the unit starts and gives the error message (You have to press F1-key to continue) the default settings will be set and they are good enough to make the system boot. I suggest You remove any hardware You might have added to the unit (memory, PC Cards and so on) and try again. If it still fails then I think Your machine is defective and need service.
best regards
Tom

4S battery problem - phone dies, can't charge or turn on??

Having some possible battery problems with my iPhone 4S. I'm on Sprint, with the latest iOS and running on Windows 7. It all has to do with when the battery dies, and has happened 3 times already...
1. battery died, this happened:
(about a month ago)
plug in to PC via USB, low battery sign (with small sliver of red available).
almost immediately (about 2 seconds), apple logo startup screen appears.
about 20 seconds later, vibrates twice.
a second later it flashes the lock screen then goes to black with a spinny wheel for about 5 seconds.
then the apple logo startup screen shows again...and same thing repeats.
does not charge at all. same problem when plugged in to wall charger.
somehow the next day I got it to show "connect to iTunes" screen, and restored the iPhone.
2. battery died, same cycle happening.
(about two-three weeks ago)
I left it alone for a week & set a Genius Bar appointment.
somehow, the day before the appointment, I was able to plug in the iPhone, charge it, and turn it on with no problems at all.
I took it in anyway to the Apple Store and they did a "firmware restore", supposedly different from the restore I did on my home computer.
3. battery died, same crap again.
(yesterday...)
possibly interesting to note was that the battery was fully charged and left alone for the day, but was dead when I checked on it in the evening.
I think something is happening where the battery isn't actually completely drained - so the second time around when I got lucky, the battery had fully run out... so when I plugged it in to charge it didn't try to turn on straight away (because it couldn't).
...Not really sure though.
Any thoughts?????

Could possibly be the battery, I just thought if you remove the battery then try turning the phone on with the charger plugged in and see if that works, but then realised it doesnt as I just tried it, so ignore that one ha ha. Id try another battery in it and see if that solves the prob, if that doesnt work, it might either be totally screwed or just might need re flashing if the firmware has gone down the pan for some reason.

At a loss with my Galaxy battery Problems. If you can help you are awesome

So about 2 months ago my Galaxy 1's battery got really low but when I plugged it into charge it it said "Use genuine battery only. Shutting down in 10, 9, 8, ...ect..."
After calmly trying to explain to the phone that the battery it had was the one it had always had, I decided "well it's 1.5 yrs old so it's possible the battery has gone bad." Got a new battery and it has worked just swell up until now. Same scenario. Battery was really low, plugged in the charger (which is the original wall-wart that it came with, has always worked..ect..) and we're back to the use genuine battery only stuff again.
I am an electronics tech but admit I have very little knowledge of these particular kind of Li-ion batteries. There are 4 terminals but I know, because of its 3.7V nomimal, that it is only a one cell battery so I was wondering is it still possible the battery can get out of balance somehow when it gets too discharged and cause this issue? Is there something I can do as far as manually balancing these terminal? Is this balance idea completely wrong anyway? Is there anybody who knows what causes this/how to fix it? I guess what I ultimately want to know is: What is the phone seeing on this battery that is making it think it's not genuine????
I am very frustrated because, as I said earlier, I am just a poor electronics tech and really don't want to pony up another 40 or 50 bucks when this could just happen again and I will be getting a new in August anyway.
HELP!!!!
please

Thats not the issue I can assure you I know about vsync I have allways used it I just hate screen tearing. The problem isnt going to 30fps Ive tried real time fps monitoring. It happens with literally every game no matter what the graphics settings Is.
I have however narrowed down the issue, I have connected an external screen via hdmi which bypasses the intel graphics adaptor and its butter smooth, The problem lies somewhere with how optimus works or the driver. As optimus always uses the intel graphics adaptor to output to the laptop display that has to be the issue. I have tried updating the intel display adaptor drivers but no joy

USB Sound Problem

I'm having a problem with my Bose USB sound system that has just recently developed. The system is plugged directly into the back of my Mac Pro desktop so it's not going through any hubs or secondary systems. When I first start my computer the sound works just fine. But after about 10 to 15 minutes of use the sound stops completely - as if the sounds have been turned off. If I boot into Windows 7 using Boot Camp, the sound system there works just fine with no problems at all, so I do not believe this issue is hardware related but is something associated with OS X.
This all started recently after installing Tinker Tool and then realizing that their latest version is not compatible with Snow Leopard. I followed their directions and told Tinker Tool to restore the previous settings and then I removed it from my system. Now, I'm having this USB sound problem. I think it's highly probable to be the cause of my problem.
Is there anyway to reinstall the USB drivers in OS X without reinstalling the entire OS? Or, is there something else I can try to restore the USB function to Snow Leopard? Many thanks for any tips or suggestions.

They are plug and play.
I did try unplugging all of the USB devices and then powered off the computer and unplugged it for about 5 minutes as I heard that that sometimes solves USB problems. However, upon reconnecting the problem returned. All other USB devices seem to be working normally - it's only the Bose sound system. I tried plugging it into a different USB port in the back of the computer but the problem continued after about 10 minutes. Therefore, I am convinced this is not hardware related.
At this point I am thinking I need to reinstall OS X Snow Leopard to undo whatever Tinker Tool damaged. Is it possible to just replace the USB drivers in OS X without reinstalling everything?

Lumia 620 usb disconnection problem

Hi. Am facing a problem of usb disconnection while transferring data from my laptop. It's good for 1 or 2 minutes, after that am getting device not available on my laptop.
Also I noticed the charging symbol on battery is blinking when connected to usb, but ok when connected to power cord. Is that blinking normal?
clarify please

The blinking is not normal. I haven't run across any bad USB cable problems on Nokia phones but there have been some HTC USB cables that work to charge but not fot the PC connection. If you have another similar USB cable try it. Try other PC usb ports also

Anybody that has ever had, or still have battery problems....

Please join me in finding a solution.
Lets all converse in this thread about battery problems. I Have noticed many many many battery and power problems going unresolved in this discussion forum and I think if we all get organized into one thread and work together we may find a solution.
If you haven't read of my battery and power problem before here is the run down.
-battery won't charge(0% and then eventually "No Batteries Availiable")
-Battery is NEW. It is valid(works in other iBooks).
-Its not the DC-in board. No, no... I replaced that and it did nothing, it probably won't help you either.
-I've done all the pointless stuff.(Resetting PMU, PRAM, NVRAM, Deep Reset PMU)
-Battery is Charged(Used my friends iBook). Yet my iBook will not power on from the battery.
Now. I know many iBook owners are having the same problem. I have worked countless hours on this problem and I am never going to give up.
Now throughout searching countless forums of Battery Problems I have gathered some observations.(All these observations are only taken from cases similar to mine)
-They have the same problems I have stated.
-All the Resets in the world don't help them
-Some of them mention a noise coming from the iBook.
-Some of them mention buying third party power Adapters.
-The thread usually ends with them asking more questions and replies never come so they give up.
-They all usually go unresolved or Solved in the case that they just buy a new laptop.
So taking that I am pretty sure that this problem needs to be solved. I have been giving it a good try but without information I just cannot get too far.
Any of you people with the same problem as me... We should all compare certain statistics and symptoms to see if we can zero in on what the problem is.
These are my suspicions.
I purchased My Power-Adapter from Ebay. It looked legit and everything and it provides the iBook with power pretty well. Yet I stumbled across something. It says on the Power Adapter that it is a 65(watt) Power Adapter. But when I check in the System Profiler, This is what it reads:
AC Charger Information:
AC Charger (Watts): 45
Connected: Yes
Now why would the Power Adapter say 65(watts) but when I check the stats on my iBook it receives 45(watts). I have checked all the stats of these iBooks and I know that they need 65(watts) to function properly. Some people say 45w will power an iBook fine but I think this is why the battery won't charge. The power Adapter I bough online clearly stated that it will work correctly on my model and it Even says 65w on the adapter. Remember the faulty batteries? Could people be possibly making faulty power adapters and selling them now too? My friend has moved so I cannot test his "Apple" adapter to see if it works.
I also think this may be the cause of these processor sounds(That are stupidly diagnosed as HD failures) that some people like me get. I found out if I turn the processor down to "reduced" the sound goes away. Maybe the "whizzing" sound could be a capacitor being overworked so it can provide the processor with power or the processor itself but I really think these issues are related.
In saying that... This is what I want. Anybody out there that has the same(or similar) problems as I do, please do this:
-State the issues you are having with your iBook.
-Go to System Profiler and Under Hardware click Power, copy all of those statistics in the right pane and paste them in your reply.
-Say what kind of iBook(or Powerbook) you have.
-Say what kind of battery and what kind of Power adapter you have.
-Ask for other statistics that you think might help you.
-If you have any ideas of what the problem is please tell me.
-And if you already know a solution please tell us all.
We can all tackle this problem if we work together.

I can't speak to all of your problems, but there are a few things that may help.
+I purchased My Power-Adapter from Ebay. It looked legit and everything and it provides the iBook with power pretty well. Yet I stumbled across something. It says on the Power Adapter that it is a 65(watt) Power Adapter. But when I check in the System Profiler, This is what it reads:+
+AC Charger Information:+
+AC Charger (Watts): 45+
+Connected: Yes+
+Now why would the Power Adapter say 65(watts) but when I check the stats on my iBook it receives 45(watts). I have checked all the stats of these iBooks and I know that they need 65(watts) to function properly. Some people say 45w will power an iBook fine but I think this is why the battery won't charge. The power Adapter I bough online clearly stated that it will work correctly on my model and it Even says 65w on the adapter.+
You are incorrect about this. The adapter that shipped with iBooks, initially, was a 45-watt model. 45 watts is all it takes to properly run the iBook and charge its battery. The iBook registers the adapter as 45 watts because the iBook only takes the amount of power that it needs. A Powerbook needs the full 65 watts in order to run the computer and charge the battery simultaneously.
Did you replace your DC-in board yourself? Has it ever worked since the DC-in board was replaced? Are you sure you got it plugged in properly?
Yours is acting exactly the way my husband's did when his DC-in board needed to be replaced. That is, it would work from a fully charged battery, but would not charge the battery. A DC-in board replacement was the fix for his, and sounds like that would be the fix for yours, too. If you did it yourself before, maybe you need to either try it again (you could have received another bad one), or send it off to have someone else do it.
Good luck.

Another one of those battery problems...so scared

Hey all,
I know that many people are posting battery problems and I think I have a similar one...I just don't know if apple will listen to me. My 15" mbp shuts down at around 45% charge for no reason. I applied the update that apple provided but to no avail.
Unfortunately, here are my stats:
Battery Installed: Yes
First low level warning: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 3824
Remaining Capacity (mAh): 3824
Amperage (mA): 239
Voltage (mV): 12604
Cycle Count: 529
It seems i have decent capacity but the cycle count indicates that the battery is old (about 13 months). So what do you guys think? Do I have a chance of getting a free replacement with the protection plan? If there is a possibility, what tactic should I use-you know- call apple, mac genius, what should I tell them. The problem has been bothering me for a while and it seems to be getting worse.
If I probably won't get the replacement, can someone recommed some good alternatives you found to the default batteries, preferably those with a greater capacity/battery life. Keep in mind, I'm a college student so any money I can save would mean a good month's worth of food that isn't crackers and ramen.
thanks,
any reply would be greatly appreciated.

Unfortunately, I really doubt Apple will give you a free replacement battery. Apple specifies that a battery should maintain 80% of it's original full charge capacity for 300 cycles. As you point out, you have 529 cycles on your battery - it's had a good life! But Apple will tell you (correctly) that batteries do wear out, and that's what is happening to yours.
So, you either need to live with the poor run time that comes with an elderly battery, or purchase a new one. It's just one of the extra costs of ownership, like buying gas for your car.
If you check on Google, there may be slightly less expensive 3rd party batteries out there. If you go that route, given the problems many people have had with these batteries (which Apple has acknowledged), be sure you trust the vendors warranty. Else, you may be better off just buying direct from Apple.
Wish I had better news, but I hope this at least sets your mind at ease a bit...(except for the $ part, of course...).

IPod Battery Problems.. Send in for a replacement?

My iPod is just over a month and a half old. I use it very often. The battery lately takes about 12 to 14 hours to fully charge. Once I get a full charge into the battery, the battery lasts about 10mins, even though I don't play games or scroll alot.. Is there a battery problem here? should I send it in for a replacement? Also, when I get a replacement iPod.. Is it possible to request that my new ipod be a different colour? (I hate my pink iPod)

welcome!
1) if your ipod is under warranty, then you should send it in for service/replacement
2) as for requesting a different color... I would doubt it, but who knows....
http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/

[N85] USB charging problem

Hello all,
I tried to charge my N85 with an [non-Nokia] USB battery charger (Lenovo 90W Slim AC/DC Combo Adapter) via the Nokia Connectivity Cable (CA-101) to keep down the amount of chargers I have to carry.
But except of asking, which data connection profile I want to use, there is no charging at all.
Am I doing something wrong or is the N85 only chargeable by the original Nokia wall charger?
Thank you
sicut

30-Nov-2008 09:35 PM
rbreton74 wrote:
@sapporaby: Are you sure you have read my post completely? "Apple" is a brand o usb charger that does not work with my Nokia N85. It's a brand like "Kensington", with a usb charger that do work. Both usb charger worked with my old Nokia N95. I just want to know whether someone else has this problem usb charging problems too or if only my problem, and to make know @sicut that he is not the only one with usb charging problems with his Nokia N85 and his Lenovo charger.
@sapporaby, is it "apple" a word taboo for you? Why "kensington" is not taboo? Why "lenovo" is not taboo either?
1. I have had every Mac made since 2003.
2. I am typing this on a Mac now.
3. I have had and still have every iPhone made.
4. Same with every brand iPod.
5. I am running Apple software right now and the Nokia for Mac software.
Is that taboo enough for you? DON'T ASSUME because now your taboo question is moot.
As for your the Apple charger does not work issue, my question still stands. While your Apple charger may have worked with your N95 there is no reason why it should work with your N85. Are they the same phone?. Is the N85 made by Apple? No again. Does the Apple charger supply the same charging voltage as the Nokia charger that came with the phone? These are issues that come into play. What is so hard to use the cable that came with the phone. It seems, and maybe I am wrong but you and the OP are making a mountain out of a moe-hill.
Just use the cable that came with the phone, in the USB port of your computer and be done with it. I am having a very hard time trying to understand what the problem is with using the cable.
Message Edited by sapporobaby on 30-Nov-2008 10:07 PM
Show the KUDOS button some love.... Hit that bad boy.... It don't hurt....
Apple iPhone 5,
Retina MacBook Pro, iPad Mini, Nikon D4

HD ERRORS. MOST LIKELY BATTERY PROBLEM

If your iPod is making funny noises and not properly booting or being recognized by Windows (no Mac experience here), then it is possibly your battery that has went south on you.
Simple tests include, charging the iPod fully, and performing a HARD RESET ON THE UNIT. I am not sure if this will erase the music on it, but most likely will just reset all of your settings. It may also not let you sync up with your iTunes anymore, as after this is done, I found that I had to re-register my iPod with iTunes.
The different gens have different methods of doing this. In the case of mine, turn the hold on then off, then perform a hard reboot. Pressing both menu and play at the same time for a couple of seconds.
This will cause the unit to hard reboot. Now, boot it into disc mode (pressing and holding forward and reverse for a couple of seconds), and plug it into your computer. This should work, you can also perform a scandisk on the unit to check and see if the HD has bad sectors on it. If so, a scandisk setting of full or thorough will re-map the bad sectors to good ones, and no new music will be written ot the bad sectors.
From here you can try and open iTunes to see if you can copy music to your iPod.
Now this may not work in 100% of cases, but i have been finding that this works for a variety of odd iPod behaviour. Apple knows the batteries are garbage, starting from the first gen of the device. Sometimes the HD is actually shot, other times the circuit board is shot. The battery is a cheap replacement for the unit, mine new (OEM) cost me $30 CDN with shipping from the States to Canada. I found it online through some searches for the battery part number.
Opening the unit can damage the acrylic coating, so be careful here. The battery I ordered came with a tool to help open the unit without damaging the acrylic. It was too late for me, but I didn't care as a $30 cdn iPod (4th gen 20gb) with some scratches is better than a $400 one without.
I hope this helps many of you guys out there with weird iPod behaviours. If anyone has any other tips, add them to this post to help others try and troubleshoot their iPods.
Cheers!
Windows XP Pro
Windows XP Pro

A USB 2.0 port is a minimum system requirement.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=305703

N86 USB charging problems

The N86 uses its micro USB port as the main point chraging but, for some reason, only accepts from the included charger or when the included USB cable is connected to a PC.
I bought an external USB battery from Amazon that I used during travel to charge my iPod and other devices that use USB charging, but the problem is that it doesn't charge the N86 no matter how many times I try it. It also didn't want to charge when I connected its USB cable to a USB wall plug.
The output of the battery is upto 1000mA which is the same the max for the USB port.
Can anyone can shed any light on this matter?
Thanks in advance!

I recently bought the HAMA "Piccolino" charger kit with both a "100-240V socket to USB" and a "12V Car Cigarette lighter plug to USB"
At first no luck charging my N86 8MP
But after shorting pin 2 and 3 in the USB the charging works
It seams that the phone don't see the charger when pin 2-3 is not in data mode or shorted.
Pin 2 and 3 are the two middle pins in the standard USB plug.

13" MBP Mid 09 Battery problems with snow leopard

Last night i decided to upgrade my wifes 09 macbook from the stock 160GB harddisk to an Intel 320 series HDD.
I had gotten the Snow Leopard upgrade when i bought the mac in 09, but never bothered to install it. (Leopard worked just fine for my wifes non sophistcated needs)
So I did a timemachine backup, swapped out the HDD for the SSD and installed 10.6
Prior to the update, the battery would hold a charge perfectly well, and charge like it should. As soon as i booted 10.6 I noticed the battery status said not charging and the indicator light on the charger wasnt on.
I reset the PRAM, then the SMC, did all my updates, and nothing changed. Still no charge.
So I reswapped out the HDD back in to the macbook, As soon as i booted it, it said calculating charge time, 20 seconds later, it was charging.
The battery in 10.5 and 10.6 report OK health, with 260 or so cycles. The battery problems are ONLY in 10.6.
HELP!

Try reinstalling Snow Leopard:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.

Possible USB/Battery problem?

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