Post Power Supply replacement problems

Hello,
I'm trying to resuscitate my PowerMac G5 after a power supply failure and I'm having some issues. I've reached the end of my expertise and so I need to reach out to the community in hopes of being pointed in the right direction.
So here's the series of event that led me to where I'm at right now along with some symptoms:
- My PowerMac G5 Dual 2.0 (june 2004) died in a puff of smoke one day, smelled like burnt plastic. I was pretty sure it was a power supply issue. My computer does not qualify for the Apple extended PSU replacement program. After the death, the power supply would click whenever it was plugged in but otherwise the computer was unresponsive.
- I ordered in a new 600W power supply and replaced the toasted one. I took care to place the CPUs back exactly where they were to avoid having to re-calibrate them.
- I plugged my computer back in with the same configuration minus the second hard drive. The primary hard drive should be bootable.
- The first time I powered it on it had no monitor or keyboard/mouse connected. The fans went off at normal speed, the chime chimed and then the fans went full speed.
- I powered it off and plugged in a keyboard/mouse and monitor and now when I power it on I can hear the fans, then the chime then the CD drive reads a bit of the CD and then that's it. No video.
- It somehow seems to ignore the keyboard and mouse: I can't use the keyboard to reset the PRAM. I can't use the mouse to open the CD tray.
- Powering the computer down requires the "press and hold for 2 sec" versus the immediate power down like when the computer is in Target Disk mode.
- The power status led doesn't flash in anyway at boot, indicating no problem with the RAM, ROM or processors.
- The diagnosis lights inside the mac are not lit until I remove the plastic cover which triggers the default behavior of running the fans at full speed. Then the led lights up.
- I reset the PMU but it didn't seem to make a difference.
- I tried accessing the disk in Target Disk mode but since the keyboard appears to be ignored I don't think the G5 even gets in Target Disk mode. In any case it doesn't mount on the remote computer.
- I notice that the fan on the video card doesn't spin. The video card is an ATI 800XT with a Zallman fan and heatsync installed.
I'd be tempted to say that the video card got fried with the PSU failure but then shouldn't I be able to use the keyboard to reset the PRAM and such ? The fact that I'm unable to do that leads me to believe that perhaps a part of the logic board or the front panel got fried...
How would I go about troubleshooting this without buying a new logic board and front panel ?
Any ideas ?

Going through the exact same issue started about 1.5 weeks ago thinking about giving up and buying a Mac mini for access and snow leopard.

Similar Messages

PowerMac G5 Power Supply Replacement _ Sharing some information

I thought I might share my experience here with the recent replacement of the 600w power supply on my DP 1.8 G5.
Like many who have experienced the failure, the loud cap gun like sound when the PS failed was a sound I didn't want to hear.
Because this system is the workhorse of my business it was imperitve that we ether got it back up and running or replace it. After a quick call to Apple, even though the system is out of warrenty, I realized this was going to be an in house repair, one because of the cost invloved, and two because of our time frame.
My thought was how bad can a power supply replacement be? We replace them all the time on our Web Servers and other Linux based systems.
To those of you that have done this G5 repair I'm sure you are snickering about this time.
We were able to locate a new power supply and had it over nighted. To those of you ready to tackle the job here is our experience:
1. Remove the fans, both the front and rear.
2. Pop off the covers on the processor heat sinks so you can get to the allen head screws that hold the processors in place. ( Yes you have to pull the processors to remove the power supply) Make sure you have a 2.5mm allen head driver with at least a 5.5" shank so you reach the screws that hold the processor in place.
3. Mark the processors, A or B, top or bottom, you want them going back in the same slots.
4. Once you have loosened the screws (leave them in the posts, no need to pull them out) pull each processor straight up. Don't wiggle them or rock them, you don't want to bend any pins.
5. If you have the lower RAM slots filled I would pull the RAM, you'll need the room to get the Power Supply cover out of the way. Again be sure to mark the modules so there is no mismatch.
6. Remove the 2 screws that are holding the PS cover in place. I found that if you lift the front of the plate up and then slide it to the front, it clears the case. It IS tight to remove this cover, be careful not to jam it against the logic board. I also found its flexable so I could torque it a little from the middle to pull it out.
7. Remove the 4 screws from the bottom of the case, they hold the PS in place.
8. Remove the 3 connections from the logic board.
9. I found that with the case laying on its side, I tipped the power supply up horzontialy towards the top on the case, and then it lifted stratgit out.
10. Pop the new in the samew way the old one came out, and make the connections to the logic board. The front connection is a pain because the pig tail isn't all that long, so you end up doint it with one hand.
11. Reinstall the 4 screws on the bottom of the case, and reinstalled the PS cover using 2 screws.
12. Put you processors back in place, first the top and then the bottom, be careful here, you don't want to bend any pins, line up the posts and push straight in, you'll feel it seat itself. Tighten up the screws. Don't overtighten these they need to be snug.
13. Replace the ram, and the top covers for the heat sink and your fans.
At this point you should be all set, replace the dust covers close up the case and fire it up and all should be well.
We of course cleaned up the case before replacing the PS and we DID run into a problem with the top processor not seating properly. When the machine booted we got to a gray screen and that was it. I suspected a processor wasn't seating properly and when I pulled the top processor I found a piece of dust between the pins. Of course when I removed the dust I bent a pin, and spent the next 20 minutes realigning it it with a safety pin. I know bad idea but I was desparate. We got incredibly lucky with the alignmnet and the machine booted and has been running like the bear it is.
We have built and service a lot of machines over the years, and I have to tell you pulling processors to change a PS just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I also have to take issue with the unavailability of information from Apple. I KNOW they want you to use their services but not all of us are in the position to lay out 250 for a PS and another 300 for labor and wait 10 days:)
I was in touch with a couple of people I know that stated when they pull the PS they also pull the logic board. I didn't find that to be necessary in our situation.
Like always when you open the case take the necessary precautions with static discharge and electrical hazards.
Hope this helps somebody out there, I know there wasn't a whole lot of info I found for the task in detail.
G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

You really need to call Apple and ask about your particular machine. Sometimes Apple will still honor the extended warranty if it applies, even if you're beyond the expiration, and your machine might fit a narrow set of circumstances that doesn't apply to everybody else.

Mega 651 Power Supply Replacment..

Hi Everyone,
Where on earth do you find a power supply replacment for the Mega651. I've tried tracking it down from FSP Corp. (manufacture sticker on supply) and countless websites but can't find one anywhere...Anyone?
Thanks!
Steve

Hi Pico,
have a look at this post :
The definitive(?) guide to replacing the MSI Mega PSU
it may be of use

Fan & Power Supply Replacement Kit from 2003

Hi All,
I was so excited to finally retire the G4 500 and replace with a shiny used G4 1.42 Dual. Unfortunately, I never botherd to learn about the "WIND TUNNEL" effect.
I know Apple offered a free Fan and Power Supply Replacement Kit back in 2003 that is no longer available (through Apple), but surely some wise Capiltalist Mac Reseller out there must be offering the same solution for a handsome fee.
Can anyone offer a URL?
Thanks!
J
G4 1.42 Dual GHz Mac OS X (10.4.7)
G4 1.42 Dual GHz Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Hi
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression the original MDD G4s suffered from the worst noise and Apple addressed the issue as best they could in the FW800 G4s (including the dual 1.42) and the rereleased MDD 2003 G4.
Verax sell a quiet MDD cooling kit:
http://www.verax.de/verax.php?template=catalog_entry&entryid=44

Replaced power supply same problem

took my imac g5 to apple store where genius told me it needed a new power supply because machine would not turn on and when it did just to gray apple screen Even though the serial number was in the range for extended repair program, i was told mine was to old and did not fall under any repair program. I replaced power supply same issue of gray/white apple screen and fan kicks on loud. reset pram, reset smu, checked diagnostic led lights 1,2,3 all light as they should. Cannot start up with discs either. Anyone with any ideas it would be much appreciated.

What a bummer! If you can get hold of the reseller, go after him for legal discs, if you can't get him, call Apple at 800-767-2775 and they will send you an appropriate set for a nominal fee.

Questions regarding power supply replacement

I just read the post on tips for replacing a power supply. Here's my scenario:
I have an HP Compaq dc7900 Convertible
Intel Core2 Quad CPUQ8400 @ 2.66GHz
3.49 GB of RAM
NVIDIA Quadro NVS 290
256 MB dedicated video memory
I am using some multimedia presentation software that requires a minimum of 512 mb video memory, so I am thinking of getting:
HIS H465F1GHA Radeon HD 4650 1GB 128-bit DDR3 AGP 4X/8X HDCP Ready Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161308
The specs clearly state that the card requires a 400W or greater power supply. The stock power supply with my desktop is 365W max. My stock power supply seems to be a little taller than others I have looked at. Most seem to be about 3.25" tall and mine is 3.75". I was thinking of getting this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028&cm_re=corsair_600-_-17-139-028-_-Pro...
What are my choices here? Will I need to drill holes or something?
HP Compaq dc7900 Convertible
Intel Core2 Quad CPU
Q8400 @ 2.66GHz
3.49 GB of RAM
Windows XP Service Pack 3
NVIDIA Quadro NVS 290
256 MB dedicated video memory

Here is that part# also: http://www.supernotebook.com/power-supply.php?psupart=3786
Your original PSU has an orientation with the plug left. Fan to rear.
The 630W has the rear grill and a mounted fan on the case. It must be installed with the same orientation with the plug left, otherwise the fan will not work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/462434-001-460968-001-HP-POWER-SUPPLY-/230473182692
It perfectly matches your picture of the original PSU. Note the 6 holes.
BTW- I called the supplier, and was told these are generic supplies.
1) It has 3 fans: rear, side, and back (you can not see the back grill in their pic)
2) the dimensions are as listed, it is 3.25" as you noted, not 3.75"
Things sure do get dicey!
Sent you a PM.
I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
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(2) HP DV7t i7 3160QM 2.3Ghz 8GB
HP m9200t E8400,Win7 Pro 32 bit. 4GB RAM, ASUS 550Ti 2GB, Rosewill 630W. 1T HD SATA 3Gb/s
Custom Asus P8P67, I7-2600k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX660 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Custom Asus P8Z77, I7-3770k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX670 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Both Customs use Rosewill Blackhawk case.
Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 Plus

Power Supply Replacement!

Good Day!
I bought HP LASERJET PRO 100 COLOR MFP M175 from a Future Shop store in Canada two years ago. A few months ago I left Canada and headed to my home country, with no hope of returning back again to Canada, so I decided to ship the printer with me to use it at home. Unfortunately, unaware of the voltage difference between 110v, North American voltage standard, and the 220v voltage standard in my home country, I plugged the printer cord into the wall and .. boom (you know what happened). A local accredited service center found the power supply out of order, and suggested replacement.
My question is: How can I find HP-certified service center in Montreal, Canada and how much it costs to replace the power supply (warranty is expired)?!
Regards,
Jeffery
This question was solved.
View Solution.

@7kem, welcome back to the forums
I would suggest calling HP directly to inquire about ordering a replacement power supply for your printer.
HP's contact info:
If you are calling within North America, the number is 1-800-474-6836 and if you are calling outside of the US/Canada,: click here.
Best wishes
R a i n b o w 7000I work on behalf of HP
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say
“Thanks” for helping!
Click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution!

Mac Pro 2,1 Spontaneous Restart with No Boot - Power Supply PSU Problem?

One day I was working away on my Mac Pro 2,1 Quad Core 3.0 (2007) with 8 gb ram running Lion and it just shut itself off like someone pulled the power cord (but no one did of course). Then it attempted to restart, but wouldn't boot. Basically I haven't been able to use it since as I can't get the computer to stay on for any length of time.
I'm thinking its either the power supply or the, oh no, logic board.
Symptoms have been like this so far:
Initially I would get a chime and a boot start but then I would find the computer would shut itself off somewhere in the process and try to restart. Usually the next time I would get no chime and a horrible repeated clicking of my optical drive with a rythmic fan whirring up and down on the original ATI x1900 xt graphics card. I would have to manually power off with the power button to make it stop. Sometimes it would try to restart again anyway. The only way I could get a chime again was to unplug and wait (longer the better). But even if i got a chime and a start of a boot, invariably the computer would turn off again.
I couldn't boot from another source, I couldn't run apple hardware test, I couldn't run diagnostic,... it just wouldn't stay on to do it.
I hauled my mac pro (out of warranty) to the apple store genius bar and the problem presented itself, continuously. The gent was able to get fsck to work long enough to determine my hard drive was ok and said it was one of three things - the power supply, the graphics card, or the logic board. He said because the comp powered on and then shut off, and because there was intermittent chiming, he didn't think it was the power supply. He thought it was the graphics card and said I could leave my Mac for 10 days and they could take a looksy, or I could just install a new graphics card on my own.
I chose the latter, bought a ATI Radeon 5770 from the apple online store for $275 and installed it.
Problem persists.Exactly the same as before. Got initial chime, then next time no chime, optical drives clicking and graphics card fan whirring up and down rhythmically.
I had a touch of time to disconnect everything and I get a chime consistently now when I have my boot drive, graphics card, 4 gb ram, and monitor attached. (As well as wireless mouse, keyboard, trackpad). I even got to logon once only to have a prompt shut off and restart attempt. also I verified it was at least one optical drive clicking (when I removed them both) during these boot attempts.
The improvement in chiming seemed to be when I unseated one ram riser ( I have to with 2 x 2g ram modules each).
I also checked the diagnostic leds on the logic board and all was as it should be... says I got trickle power and rail power etc.
Is there anything else I can do to determine what's wrong? What do you guys think is wrong? Could it be bad RAM? Power Supply? Logic Board?
All your help is massively appreciated in advance!

Well I ran as many tests as I could with no definitive results to the point I would have to start buying replacement parts and testing that way. I opted to take it back to the apple store and they said it's (dun dun dun dunnnnn) the logic board.

SEARCHING FOR TUNSTEN E POWER SUPPLY REPLACEMENT

I am working here in Baghdad, Iraq and need to know where to purchase a replacement AC adapter.
Type is PalmOne SAC MODEL R3W005-500
PALM PIN: 163-5877A-US
INPUT: 120VAC 60HZ 100MA
OUTPUT: 5.5VDC 500MA
ITE power supply I think the power supply was plugged in to 220 by accident. However, I do have a universal which works some but only charges at 4.5 volts. I would like to replace old one. But do not know where to go. I am sure I will have to purchase online.
Post relates to: Tungsten E

Hello and thank you for using the Palm Help Forums!
I was unable to locate a charger on our website but I was able to locate the charger you need on a different website. http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CL-920&Category_Code=CC
This is for the Tungsten E device you currently own. I hope this resolves your issue.
-Pat

IMac broken, Power Supply replacement?

My 13 months iMac G5 20" 2GHz shut down all the time.. mostly within 10 minutes after booting.
A friend of mine had the same problem 2 months ago. Apple replaced his Power Supply for free since the guaranty is 12 months.
My machine is one month past guaranty, 13 months old and therefor Apple wants $200 to fix my computer!!
As I can see my iMac ain't covered by the iMac Repair & Extentionprogram since mine is a 2GHz.. My seriealnumber starts with W8519XXXXXX..
Does W8435xxxxxx - W8522xxxxxx mean that all serialnumbers between these two are convered by this program?
http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/
How can Apple charge me $200 for a obious production fault?!
iMac G5, 2GHz, 20" Mac OS X (10.4.7)

All serial numbers within the numbers listed should be covered, and your number seems to fall in that category. However, if yours is not a Rev A , Apple may feel that your problem is not the one they are dealing with. They do specifically state:
"Some second generation iMac G5 computers have serial numbers that fall within the upper band of the ranges listed below. Only first generation iMac G5 computers are affected by this program."
I would call them again and try, politely, to point out that not only did your warranty just expire, but that your serial number is among the affected ones and your problem is one of the ones the extension program addresses.
Good luck,
Miriam
Rev A 20" iMac G5, 15"iMac G4, 15"iMac G3 DVD Mac OS X (10.4.7)

M78 power supply replacement

Hi,
I need to replace one of my business' desktop PCs and I'm thinking about getting a an M78 (2111C3U) model.
I read online where the power supply has a proprietary connector, so I was wondering if anyone has the part number or knows what a replacement will cost.
My reason for asking is that I had a Dell lap top once with a proprietary power supply that went bad. It turned out to be a very common problem that even caused a few fires. Dell would not work with us for a reasonable solution (lap top was out of warranty) so I'd like to know in advance what I'm getting into if I go with this power supply.
My bad experience with Dell was 6 PCs ago. As result, I've been Dell "problem-free" for a while now and I've really enjoyed it.
thanks

The hardware maintenance manual may be of help to you:
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/thinkcentre_pdf/m78_hmm.pdf
From what I've seen, Lenovo business-focused systems, the ThinkCenter, are more reliable than the average consumer system.

C3750X - Power supply OIDs problems

Hello,
We are trying to monitor two stacks of CISCO WS-c3750X running IOS 12.2.(58)SE.
We can get the state of the power supplies, but after a power cycle or reboot of the switches the identifier of ONE of the Power supplies ALWAYS change. The OIDs for the rest of the PS do not vary. The problem happens in the two stacks.
Any idea or work around?
Kind regards
Mark

Hi,
I'm trying to determine if the issue addressed in this post is a match with the following symptom:
As you can see from the output below - the switch 2 power supplies appear to be healthy:
SWITCH#show env power switch 1
SW PID                 Serial#     Status           Sys Pwr PoE Pwr Watts
1A C3KX-PWR-350WAC     AZS161707F3 OK              Good     Good     350/0
1B C3KX-PWR-715WAC     LIT16180RRU OK              Good     Good     715/0
SWITCH#show env power switch 2
SW PID                 Serial#     Status           Sys Pwr PoE Pwr Watts
2A C3KX-PWR-715WAC     LIT16180RRY OK              Good     Good     715/0
2B C3KX-PWR-350WAC     AZS161707FZ OK              Good     Good     350/0
Yet, the snmpwalk output shows a Sw2 PS2 power supply fault:
              snmpwalk -v1 X.X.X.X -c READONLY .1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13.1.5.1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.1035 = STRING: "Sw1, PS1 Normal, RPS NotExist"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.1036 = STRING: "Sw1, PS2 Normal, RPS NotExist"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.2034 = STRING: "Sw2, PS1 Normal, RPS NotExist"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.2035 = STRING: "Sw2, PS2 Faulty, RPS NotExist"
Do my symptoms match with the issue addressed in this post ?
TIA,
Amir

Where can i buy a power supply replacement (UK)

Hi
my power adapter for WRT54GS is broken
I've checked it using a friends power supply (he has the same router)
even though i only brought it early last year so its still under warranty
I missplaced my reciept and cant find it
so Im looking around the internet for a replacement but cant find
any1 know where i can buy 1??
this is whats written on the power adapter:
Model No AD 23/1C
Model No: 12100BS
PRI. :230V~50Hz 100mA
SEC. :12V 1000Ma 12VA
btw im in the UK so need a UK plug
really appreciated any help

You got a problem on you hands . Call Linksys and ask them to see where you can get a replacment

Mac Pro power supply replacement?

We're on our yacht in Hobart, Tasmania. No access to Apple Store.
Re: Mac Pro 2006, how do I assess whether the power supply is failing?
I ask because we have experienced several times over the past couple of years the following issue. Typically in the morning I see the Mac Pro has shut down and will not startup. I go through the SMC reset procedure as per Article: HT1806. The straight forward "press the SMC Reset button" never works. Sometimes just pulling the power cord for a few minutes works. Yesterday was one of the "hard cases". None of the usual voodoo worked, so I left the Mac Pro for about 6 hours with power and all cables disconnected.
When I reconnected power the MP began a familiar 17 second cycle, both sets of Memory Riser Card Diagnostic LEDs illuminate for about 3 seconds, fans start, shutdown (repeat).
Pressing down the SMC RST button stops this loop, but still cannot startup.
Yesterday I pulled the top memory riser, left MP off for 30 minutes then when I reconnected power I could startup successfully. Shutdown, reinsert top rise, restart success.
I called Apple support, authorized a case. The tech went off to consult for 10 minutes or so, then came back and said "we think your power supply is probably stuffed".
To obtain a replacement supply here in Hobart is going to be difficult and expensive. So any advice on how to improve our assessment of the true source of this problem would be much appreciated.
The famous and helpful "Hatter" once suggested to another troubled Mac Pro owner to "leave the computer disconnected from power overnight". My experience is that the longer time disconnected is related to success, but I do not understand why. Why is overnight helpful?
PS - I've not done the following procedure yet, and because it is from the 2008 Mac Pro service manual it may not apply to the 2006 exactly as written. I'm including this info for the benefit of searchers who come along in the future:
Power Supply Verification
To power on, the computer’s logic board requires “trickle” power. If the system fails to power on, first reset the SMC as described in this chapter. If the computer still doesn’t power on, follow the procedure outlined below to determine whether the issue is related to the power supply.
Verify trickle power
Diagnostic LED 2 indicates the presence of trickle power required by the logic board to begin the startup process.
LED 2 should be yellow when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that trickle voltage is present.
Verify Power Supply Is Providing Power
Diagnostic LED 8 indicates that the main power is OK and within regulation. Plug in AC power cord, and press the power-on button on the front panel.
LED 8 should be green when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that the main power is OK and within regulation.
If diagnostic LED 5 and LED 6 are both solidly illuminated at power up, improperly seated power supply cables could be one cause of this behavior. Check all power supply cable connections to ensure they are properly seated.
PSS - I have recently replaced the PRAM battery.

Are you getting a chime?
The chime says the computer passed the first part of the Power-On Self-Test, and if enough working RAM and a boot drive can be found, booting is likely. Lack of a chime says something else is amiss.
The usual procedure in cases of no chime is to pretend that something is loading down the power supply. So you remove all the drives and the graphics card and everything except a minimum of RAM, and look for the chime. If you get to the chime, then you add back the graphics card so you can see what is happening, and boot to the Installer DVD. then bring back an item at a time and see when it craps out.

Power supply fan problem?

My G5 has been making this noise intermittantly - but more often - and it seems to be coming from the area near the bottom of the computer, underneath the main compartment where the processors, HD, etc are. It sounds like a dying fan or the like to me. What do you think? Is there anything I can do, or should I bring it in to Apple?
http://www.nd.edu/~jcolman/noise.aif
PowerMac G5 (Dual 2.3) Mac OS X (10.4.4)

I had a similar problem. You can try cleaning the fans first, but you may have a bad bearing in one of the fans. I ended up having the PS replaced.
Cleaning a Power Mac G5's Power Supply Fans >>
To troubleshoot the problem, put the computer to sleep, stick the plastic nozzle from a can of compressed air though the front grill on the lower right as the red arrows indicate to block one of the PS fan blades from going around. Wake the computer back up and see if the noise is still there. Mine wasn't, so I pulled the nozzle out while the computer was running and the noise started up when the fan started running. I knew I had a bad fan motor then and had the PS replaced. There are two PS fans as you can see in the picture, so you can test each one this way. Good luck!
-Bmer
Mac Owners Support Group
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Post Power Supply replacement problems

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