Power cord too short

Does anyone have a solution for how short and clumsy the power cord is?

Short? Are you using just this part of the power cord:
If you are, you can expand it by removing the two prong part there (it slides out) and putting in the three-prong cable that came with the computer. This thread explains it all.

Similar Messages

  • Is LED display video cord too short to use with Mac Pro?

    I've seen the new 24-in cinema display used with a macbook and noted how short the cord is. Now I'm thinking of getting the new Mac Pro with that same display but won't the cord be too short for me to set the tower near the floor on the side of my desk? I don't want to have to set that tower ON my desktop just so the connector will reach the minidisplay port.
    Any thoughts?

    I have exactly this set up, and it (just) works for me.
    The cable is about 42" from the back of the monitor to the three connectors at the other end, which allows me to have the Mac Pro on the floor, and the monitor on my desk. Obviously, it will depend on your desk height, cable access, etc., but it was a bit of tight fit, so you might want to get out a tape measure and see it will work for you.

  • Keyboard Cord too short

    The USB connection cord on my keyboard is too short to connect to the back of the iMac from the underside of the desk. I suppose I could get a wireless keyboard, but it seems wasteful not to use the keyboard that came with the computer if the only problem is a short cord. Is there such a thing as a USB extension cord?
    (This would also solve the problem of using a wired mouse on the right side of my iBook G4 which has it's USB ports on the left side. It has no Bluetooth built in and I keep knocking out the little Bluetooth stick that goes in a USB port.)
    Thanks!

    A shopping follow up in case anyone else with the same problem reads this thread:
    I had trouble finding a USB extension cord at Office Depot, Staples, and Radio Shack. They have them but not with the right connections at the ends. Be sure you look for one that says A/A , A to A , or A Male to A Female. What the stores here stock were almost all A/B which is what you want to connect a camera or a printer to a USB port on a computer. One salesman sold me an A/B and a separate B/A adapter, but the keyboard didn't like that, no response. I ended up ordering the right cable from an online company -- Cables to Go -- for much less $$ than any of the cables at a retail store.

  • 10th power cord has shorted out. Is this computer fixable?

    This PB G4 15" is still working very well. The only problem is this power cord situation. After the 10th power plug, I duck taped the housing to the laptop so that it would not wiggle loose and make the small fizzle it has done when the cord is not making connection. Was working for a little over a week, and now, despite the sturdy duck tape housing I made, the battery is no longer charging. I fear I have fried yet another power cord. Is it worth taking it to a repair to replace this bad connection?

    10 of them? If after the second one you received a bad cord, it says, you need to read this article I wrote*:
    http://www.macmaps.com/frayguide.html
    If you are taking as good care as I suggest there, it says either your power supply inside the machine is bad, or outside, because having multiple cords fail the same way is unlikely unless there is some bad external influence.
    Be sure your electrician certifies your power port on your wall as safe for the amount of energy the machine needs. Use an APC surge protector if not. While they may not 100% protect you against lightning, at least they'll give your machine the regular current it needs.
    - * Links to my website may give me compensation.

  • Velco strap on new 170W power adapter too short

    I see that the W520 has a larger power supply (170W).  Unfortunately, someone in engineering forgot to lengthen the handy Velcro strap.  It is not long enough to reach around the power supply.  Please have someone look into that.   The strap is not expensive, and fixing the design won't cost much, but I tell you, the feature of having a wraping and straping device on the power adapter is sadly lacking in this new design and really missed.

    Not a good idea. I bet its getting hot. The new router draws a lot more power. Use a short extension cord would be a better idea

  • Charge cord too short for Lumia 900.

    The charge cord for the Lumia 900 should be a little longer.  Even with the plugin right off the side of my bed the charge cord is not long enough for me to be able to read off of my Lumia 900 without needing to unplug my phone from the charger.  (To read news articles the phone has to be in the portrait orientation with the Windows home button at the bottom.  My Samsung Focus charge cord length was long enough. 
    -Paul
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Thanks Kosh and Android for the replies.
    Basically the usb charge cord supplied by Nokia for my Lumia 900 is not long enough to be able to charge and use the phone at the same time. (My battery usually doesn't last a full day.) Nokia supplies a short cord compared to other manufacturers. I believe the charge cord supplied should be longer to equal what other brands supply.
    I would buy a longer usb charge cord but Nokia does not offer one and I am concerned I may not find a good quality one and it may wear out the usb port on my phone prematurely. Plus I will be upgrading my phone soon.
    -Paul

  • Mighty mouse cord too short..?

    On the iBook g4 the usb ports are both on the left side, but i am right handed, and the mighty mouse's cable is very short making it hard to use...Anyone else find this or have any suggestions?
    Thanks

    Dustin Cook1:
    i On the iBook g4 the usb ports are both on the left side, but i am right handed, and the mighty mouse's cable is very short making it hard to use...Anyone else find this or have any suggestions?
    An extension cable would more than likely work, especially since the mouse operates at 1.5 Mbit/sec. A mini hub with separate or captive cable would theoretically work better as an extension since you're not directly transmitting across two different (full and mini sized) cable configurations and a connector. You could also relocate a bunch of your devices to the right side as long as all your stuff plugged in uses less than 500 mA.
    If you live near a Fry's Electronics, they often have cheap (sub $4) USB mini hubs on sale. There's also no reason why a full-spec USB cable or extension should cost more than $1. They're made by the boatload in China for 20 cents each, and I've bought them in bulk at online retailers for $1 each.

  • If a power cord shorts out, can it affect my Macbook Pro?

    I have my 2009 macbook pro 13" plugged in, then suddenly it turns itself off and needs to be restarted using the power button, and when it shuts down, the power cord seems to 'die' too. I think the power cord might be shorting out. Could this be? Could it possibly be a completely unrelated occurrence, where the cord dies and the computer separately spontaneously shuts off (perhaps the battery is dying)? No warning pops up or anything, there is just a tiny 'pop' sound and the screen goes black. I must then use the power button to turn it back on. When I turn the computer back on, the clock is set back to some time in 2000 and wifi is knocked out. But if I put the computer in sleep mode, close the lid, then open it, it reconnects to airport with no problem, and sometimes the light on the power cord will turn back on. I haven't been able to find a similar issue anywhere.
    Some more background: the computer, when turned on and for example using Google Chrome and TextEdit, and these 2 applications only, the battery power quickly deteriorates. In addition, whereas the battery used to deteriorate down to the single digit percentages, it now tends to die at about anywhere from 10-30% battery life reading. This is where I am getting the idea my battery may be going bad. This is my 3rd or 4th power cord in 5 years.

    This cord has not been wrapped or stored in damaging ways, I always circle it up, never use the little ears to wind the thinner cord on the A/C adaptor block because this has been shown to have problems, plus the cord gets all kinked up. I am as delicate as possible with my cords now because my previous ones have been damaged from wrapping/other technical issues (the first, which came with my Mac in '09, was the old 't' style and frayed from factory defect, the second stopped working after about 2 years so I was told it was probably due to age, the third stopped working spontaneously back in July of this year due to unknown causes, and this newly purchased one has been treated as described above, very delicately, wrapped in loose circles and placed in a padded carrying case). The cord was plugged into a surge protector when the issue occurred, at the home of a friend (not in my own home), when the issue began to occur.
    Apple charges $80 for a subpar product that has time and time again failed for various and differing reasons, but they don't change anything because it makes them money when you have to keep buying new power supply cords every 6 months to a year or shorter. I have never had this particular problem where the cord overheats and shuts down my computer. I purchase from Best Buy because I can't afford to wait for 6 weeks while Apple ships new product, nor can I afford to pay extra for shipping. The nearest Apple store is an hour from my house, otherwise I'd go straight there and have my computer and cord diagnosed.
    I am pretty sure the computer battery itself is dying, as well, as the unit is 5 years old.
    I found it strange that no one else I could find had ever documented this same problem occurring.
    Thanks for your time and advice.

  • My MacBook Pro's power cord just died yesterday - no power. I borrowed my husband's to charge my computer and now his is dead too! Is this my computer doing this?

    My MacBook Pro's power cord just died yesterday - no power. I borrowed my husband's to charge my computer and now his is dead too! Is this my computer doing this?

    there are only 2 statistical probabilities of both charger blocks (NOT the cord as you report) going at the same time.
    and what "goes" is one of the 2 capacitors inside them.
    A: bad power on your outlet (more likely)
    B; also likely is a defective IO board in your macbook causing the charger blocks to go kaput
    Contact Apple for appt for free diagnostic examination in shop  

  • EA4500 -Short Power Cord

    I have a modular L-Computer desk, with a shelf above the typing area where all my many wireless devices reside. It's 2 level, with my EA4500 last in line, in the highest position for the signal to propagate to the rest of the house from the modem. Now, here is where I need some suggestions, the shelf is 5 feet and some inches off the floor, the power cord is about 4 feet (I sure miss the power cord of the WRT600N -it was about 6 feet! Really handy) Any chance I could use that power cord on the EA4500? I am not using now, of course. I thought I would check here 1st. (writing Cisco is pretty worthless or the new support provider -Cisco does not answer & the new support provide is really not much help either -we're still going about me being out-of-country presently to get support) <sigh> [boy, it would be nice if they had a universal power supply or long cords, in my case.
    Thanks for any thoughts -using and over-kill 6 foot extension -cords here are really bad -took me 3 to find 1 that works!
    Hwy101

    I checked the power adapter specification for the WRT600N router and it is 12V and 2A for the output. I searched online also for the EA4500 as I could not find it on the KB site. I found out that the EA4500 router’s power adapter specification is also 12V and 2A which is from this link: http://www.amazon.com/Voltage-rating-adapter-support-supply/forum/Fx1S3NSPCTQSWNS/Tx3R9DN0CJG9ZU6/1?.... And it is stated on that link as:
    Stamped on the EA4500 AC Adapter is the following info: EA4500 Power Supply
    AC Adapter Model CAD2412
    Input: 100-240V ~ 1.0a 50-60 Hz
    Output: 12V - 2.0A Max. 24W
    Part No. CAD2412C
    WAVIII answered on February 18, 2013
    In that case, you can make use of the power adapter that came with the WRT600N. You can double check by comparing specifications on the actual power adapters, too.

  • ThinkPad Tablet 10 power cord

    Hi,
    I bought 3x ThinkPad Tablet 10 20C1, i thought that the power cord was USB to the adapter. My intention was to install it in a tablet stand, but the cord is too short. Is there a way i can extend the power cord? Any accessories available to extend the power cable to the Tablet?
    Regards,
    Carlos
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    No it's not. Tablet 2 can charge via Micro USB cable; this feature was removed from Tablet 10 so that the more powerful proprietary ThinkPad laptop power cable employed by the TX40 series models can be used. Saying that, if you have one of the newest ThinkPad laptop models, you should be able to use its AC adapter cable to charge your ThinkPad 10 without any hassles.

  • Longer Power Cord for new G5

    Just received the new 20" G5 and was a little dismayed at how short the power cord is. I want to situate my mac in the center of a room and I can, of course, use a simple extension cord but I was wondering if anyone made a longer power cord that would be compatible with the "mickey mouse" input on the back of the mac. Does anyone know if such an item exists and if so, how to get one?

    Dale,
    I believe the power cord is of standard length. It will be difficult to find a longer one. Perhaps you could build your own power strip for whatever furniture you want to place the iMac on. The power strip can have a long enough cord, and you would have something to plug other stuff in to.
    Steve
    PS - I find nothing 'Mickey Mouse" about the connector. It's too round

  • After reading and resetting everything with Keyboard I still get blank white screen. The only way I can boot to Mavericks is unplug power cord, push and hold power button while plugging power cord in. Fans at full speed.

    After reading and resetting everything with Keyboard I still get blank white screen on 2nd? page of boot. The only way I can boot to Mavericks is unplug power cord, push and hold power button while plugging power cord in. Fans run at full speed, machine boots then runs normal except the dvdrw will not . The mid 2011 IMAC had the same problem with LION. I changed hard drives, formatted, and installed a clean install of latest os x mavericks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    EtreCheck version: 1.9.15 (52)
    Report generated August 30, 2014 at 6:56:41 PM EDT
    Hardware Information: ?
        iMac (21.5-inch, Mid 2011) (Verified)
        iMac - model: iMac12,1
        1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 4 cores
        4 GB RAM
    Video Information: ?
        AMD Radeon HD 6750M - VRAM: 512 MB
            iMac 1920 x 1080
    System Software: ?
        OS X 10.9.4 (13E28) - Uptime: 0 days 0:16:53
    Disk Information: ?
        ST3120026AS disk0 : (120.03 GB)
        S.M.A.R.T. Status: Verified
            EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
            Untitled (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 119.17 GB (87.12 GB free)
            Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
        HL-DT-STDVDRW  GA32N 
    USB Information: ?
        Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
        CHICONY USB NetVista Full Width Keyboard
        Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
            Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
        Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
        Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
    Thunderbolt Information: ?
        Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
    Gatekeeper: ?
        Anywhere
    Kernel Extensions: ?
        [loaded]    com.nvidia.CUDA (1.1.0) Support
        [loaded]    com.sophos.kext.sav (9.0.61 - SDK 10.7) Support
        [loaded]    com.sophos.nke.swi (9.0.53 - SDK 10.8) Support
    Startup Items: ?
        CUDA: Path: /System/Library/StartupItems/CUDA
        FanControlDaemon: Path: /Library/StartupItems/FanControlDaemon
    Launch Daemons: ?
        [loaded]    com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
        [running]    com.arcsoft.eservutil.plist Support
        [running]    com.bjango.istatmenusdaemon.plist Support
        [loaded]    com.oracle.java.Helper-Tool.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.autoupdate.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.configuration.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.intercheck.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.notification.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.scan.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.sxld.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.webd.plist Support
    Launch Agents: ?
        [running]    com.arcsoft.esinter.plist Support
        [running]    com.bjango.istatmenusagent.plist Support
        [loaded]    com.nvidia.CUDASoftwareUpdate.plist Support
        [loaded]    com.oracle.java.Java-Updater.plist Support
        [running]    com.sophos.uiserver.plist Support
    User Login Items: ?
        Macs Fan Control
        Firefox
    Internet Plug-ins: ?
        FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 14.0.0.176 - SDK 10.6 Support
        Flash Player: Version: 14.0.0.176 - SDK 10.6 Support
        QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
        JavaAppletPlugin: Version: Java 7 Update 67 Check version
        Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
    Audio Plug-ins: ?
        BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
        AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
        AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
        iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
    iTunes Plug-ins: ?
        Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
    3rd Party Preference Panes: ?
        CUDA Preferences  Support
        Fan Control  Support
        Flash Player  Support
        Java  Support
    Time Machine: ?
        Time Machine not configured!
    Top Processes by CPU: ?
             1%    WindowServer
             1%    fontd
             0%    firefox
             0%    SystemUIServer
             0%    SophosWebIntelligence
    Top Processes by Memory: ?
        229 MB    firefox
        156 MB    SophosScanD
        152 MB    InterCheck
        131 MB    com.apple.IconServicesAgent
        115 MB    SophosAntiVirus
    Virtual Memory Information: ?
        424 MB    Free RAM
        1.53 GB    Active RAM
        1.37 GB    Inactive RAM
        699 MB    Wired RAM
        1.26 GB    Page-ins
        0 B    Page-outs

    I'd start by getting rid of the following software responsible for these extensions.
    Kernel Extensions: ?
        [loaded]    com.nvidia.CUDA (1.1.0) Support
        [loaded]    com.sophos.kext.sav (9.0.61 - SDK 10.7) Support
        [loaded]    com.sophos.nke.swi (9.0.53 - SDK 10.8) Support
    Startup Items: ?
        CUDA: Path: /System/Library/StartupItems/CUDA
        FanControlDaemon: Path: /Library/StartupItems/FanControlDaemon
    Use the uninstaller provided with the Sophos software. You can uninstall CUDA via the preference pane. Be sure you remove the com.nvidia.CUDA extension which is located in the /System/Library/Extensions/ folder. Not sure if Fan Control has an uninstaller so you will have to do it manually:
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    Most OS X applications are completely self-contained "packages" that can be uninstalled by simply dragging the application to the Trash.  Applications may create preference files that are stored in the /Home/Library/Preferences/ folder.  Although they do nothing once you delete the associated application, they do take up some disk space.  If you want you can look for them in the above location and delete them, too.
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    Some software use startup daemons or agents that are a new feature of the OS.  Look for them in /Library/LaunchAgents/ and /Library/LaunchDaemons/ or in /Home/Library/LaunchAgents/.
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    There are many utilities that can uninstall applications.  Here is a selection:
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        2. AppDelete
        3. Automaton
        4. Hazel
        5. AppCleaner
        6. CleanApp
        7. iTrash
        8. Amnesia
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    Reinstall Lion, Mountain Lion, or Mavericks without erasing drive
    Boot to the Recovery HD:
    Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
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    When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list.  In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive.  If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported then click on the Repair Permissions button. When the process is completed, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
    Reinstall Lion, Mountain Lion, or Mavericks
    OS X Mavericks- Reinstall OS X
    OS X Mountain Lion- Reinstall OS X
    OS X Lion- Reinstall Mac OS X
         Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet
                     if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.

  • Mag Safe power cord sparks when connected or disconnected--whereupon the MacBook Pro 13'' dumps date and time, and all passwords, plus any/all unsaved information.

    I purchased my MacBook Pro 13" from the Apple Store in Tucson, AZ, in mid-January. Since then, every time the Mag-Safe cord is jostled, not even disconnected, sparks fly from the power terminal on the computer, the computer shuts down, and dumps its passwords, as well as the date and time.
    Any work in progress is also lost.
    I work overseas, and Apple's advice was to give them my credit card number, await shipment of a new power supply and cord, and then, when I return the old power supply and cord, i'd receive a credit. That won't work, as packages from the US to my location take weeks if they arrive at all. There is no Apple Store within a reasonable distance. Or, Apple suggests, when I'm home on leave in mid-June, I should bring the computer to the Apple Store for repair--I have only days in which to do that, but I suppose I'll need to try. My concern is that I'll need to return overseas without my computer and won't be able to retrieve it for months, until my next leave.
    This issue shows up elsewhere online. Is there a short in the power terminal in the computer, or on the Mag-Safe power cord, or within the computer itself? It's a known issue, thus I wonder why it hasn't been fixed.

    Odd, but here's a copy of Page 1 of the links I got:
    Apple Portables: Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters26 May 2011 ... If the spark comes from somewhere other than the blades of the plug, .... Apple Portables: Reducing cable strain on your MagSafe power ...
    support.apple.com › Support - Cached
    Apple - Support - Discussions - Magsafe sparked when plugging into ... 
    2 posts - 2 authors - Last post: 22 FebI plugged my magsafe adapter into my macbook pro (mid 2010 model i think ...
    discussions.apple.com › ... › Power and Batteries on a MacBook Pro - Cached 
    Mag Safe power cord sparks when...: Apple Support Communities6 Jun 2011 ... Mag Safe power cord sparks when connected or disconnected ...
    https://discussions.apple.com/message/15350172
    Show more results from apple.com
    Apple power brick sparks lawsuit • The  Register
    - 4:52am6 May 2009 ... Apple power brick sparks lawsuit ... Apple, for its part, made the MagSafe one of the featured, um, features of the MacBook Pro when it ...
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    @apple MagSafe failure sparking all over the place, not recalled ...1 Jan 2011 ... ryanol: @apple MagSafe failure sparking all over the place, not recalled? Not repairable 79 bucks  later #applefail another design fail for ...
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  • Week-old Pro won't turn on, power cord doesn't light up

    I bought a new 13" non-retina MacBook Pro a week ago. Now my laptop will not turn on, and there is no green/amber light on the power cord when it is connected.
    Backstory: I've already had problems with this machine. The same day I bought it, it no longer recognized my admin password that I had set up and logged in with several times. I had to reinstall the operating system.
    The day it stopped working, I had been transferring some files from my old laptop to the pro via an external hard drive. The laptops charge was getting low, so I plugged in the charger. In order to do this, I had to unplug &amp; replug the external hard drive's power cord to get both to fit. I was dumb and forgot that it was necessary for the drive to work, but after I had realized this I assumed that it wasn't such a big deal. After all, I had already transferred everything I need over and there was nothing on the drive that controlled the laptop in any way. There was a popup similar to when a flash drive isn't ejected properly. It said that some things on the drive could be corrupted, but I didn't pay much notice because, as I said, everything I needed was already off. However, after I clicked "ok", the machine shut down.
    Now, my laptop is completely unresponsive. No lights, no fan, nothing at all that would show it is functioning at all. Pressing the power button does nothing. When I plug in the charger, there's no colored indicator. I know this isn't an issue with the charger, because I tried another charger and it too did not have a green/amber light.
    Does anyone know what's wrong, or how I can fix this? If not, I'm bringing it back in to Apple to be fixed/returned.

    Clare,
    Please don't be insulted here, but sometimes the obvious is the stuff that bites us. Are you sure the power cord is plugged into a good outlet? If you're using the cord that attaches in place of the onboard AC connector, is it securely snapped in?
    It seems odd that this happened when it did, meaning you were low on power to begin with. If you think about it, this is how a no power to the charger situation would behave.

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