"power dial" mystery and power supply
1. So it has a power dial with 3 settings, but anyone can give me real info (non of that for dummies answers) about what does the power dial do? does it change what settings, disconnets some of the 4 cores? limits what etc'?
2. what power supply does it have? I think I saw 250W in one place, that makes no sense since at that level, one cannot upgrade the graphic card to even an envidia 8600 level.
any info?
Hi csmba, welcome to the forum,
unfortunately you haven't included which system you have.
If you have a K100 series, which I suspect then;
1) this link should hopefully provide more information for you. (Basically a manual switch for "speed stepping" )
2) according to this site, it can have a 280W or 400W.
Regards
Andy ______________________________________
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Upgrade video card and power supply or upgrade my pc?
I have a :
HP
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muvee autoProducer Basic: Automatically create professional looking home videos and burn to DVD
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Cyberlink DVD Suite Deluxe: Automatically fix and edit videos and create CDs and DVDs. Edit, burn and archive data to discs.
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Microsoft Works 9: Includes a word processor, spreadsheet, database and calendar
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Motherboard Chipset NVIDIA GeForce 8200 Chipset
CPU CPU Type Phenom X4 Installed Qty 1 CPU Speed 9550(2.2GHz) L2 Cache Per CPU 4 x 512KB CPU Socket Type AM2+ CPU Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor
Graphics GPU/VPU Type NVIDIA GeForce 9300 GE Graphics Interface PCI Express x16
Memory Memory Capacity 5GB DDR2 Memory Speed DDR2 800 Form Factor DIMM 240-pin Memory Spec 2GB x 1 & 1GB x 3 Memory Slots (Available/Total) 0/4 Maximum Memory Supported 8GB
Hard Drive HDD Capacity 750GB HDD Interface SATA HDD RPM 7200rpm
Optical Drive Optical Drive Type DVD Super Multi Optical Drive Spec SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology
16x DVD±R, 8x DVD+RW, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD+R DL, 4x DVD-R DL, 5x DVD-RAM, 16x DVD-ROM, 40x CDR, 32x CDRW, 40x CD-ROM
Audio Audio Chipset Integrated
Communications Modem 56K LAN Chipset Integrated LAN Speed 10/100/1000Mbps
Front Panel Ports Front USB 2 Front IEEE 1394 1 Front Audio Ports 2 Card Reader Front panel 15-in-1 memory card reader: supports SmartMedia, xD, MultiMedia Card, Secure Digital (SD), Mini Secure Digital, Compact Flash I, Compact Flash II, IBM Microdrive, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick Pro Duo, RSMMC, MMC Mobile, MMC+
Back Panel Ports PS/2 2 Video Ports 1 DVI, 1 HDMI Rear USB 4 Rear IEEE 1394 1 RJ45 1 port Rear Audio Ports 6 ports S/P DIF 1 port
Expansion PCI Slots (Available/Total) (2/3) PCI-E x1 slots
(0/1) PCI-E x16 slot
Mouse Mouse Type HP optical mouse
Keyboard Keyboard Type HP multimedia keyboard
Physical Spec Dimensions 16.54" x 15.16" x 7.60" Weight 32.00 lbs.
Manufacturer Warranty Parts 1 year limited Labor 1 year limited
Sorry for the long copy and paste. I read that I can upgrade the video card and power supply. But atm when I play world of warcraft at ultra settings, I tend to lag really bad in the new instances with the new cat expansion that came out. I wanted to know if I should upgrade the video card and power supply for better performance or just upgrade my whole pc tower. Fyi, I am running a Acer X243w lcd flat panel monitor if that helps too.My brother has a high end laptop with a built in, high end gaming video card (I forget which one). He's able to run the game on full-on Ultra.
I have an integrated video card which games the game on.. 'cartoon'.. mode. It's lower then low. When someone shoots a powerful spell at me, I go into a DOS Prompt. (not really, but it's pretty bad).
Funny thing is, I can still kick my brother's butt in any PVP match he wants to set up.
But I guess his graphics are pretty....
As for which video card works best, I'd have to do some research. After that graphics update they did with CAT, it's kind of a toss up again.
I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
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Up for the Challenge? A Real Mystery (Fried Power Supply?)
I didn't know if this is the appropriate place to post this, but here goes.
I have a file server at home that runs Arch/KDE. It used to be a desktop/gaming machine, but I don't really play games on my computer anymore so I re-purposed it as a file server (SSH, Unison). It has a Geforce 9800GT video card and a 610watt continuous power supply. (No onboard video, requires a video card to function).
Yesterday I helped a client with his PC. I was trying to figure out if his issue was his video card or his motherboard, so I shut down the server, unplugged it, and removed the video card and put it in his PC to test (since my video card is known-good). After testing, I put it back in my server, connected the power cable to the video card, secured it with a screw, and continued working on my server.
About a half hour later, I noticed a really foul stench coming from my PC. I checked all the temps (CPU, video card, etc) and all were in range. I even tried a video card from a different PC and it still stunk. I traced the smell to my power supply, which stunk really bad. (Smells like a burned up motor). The Fan in the power supply turns just fine but it stinks! I unplugged it and stopped using it.
The server works absolutely fine (runs good, boots up fine, graphics works great, everything works) but it smells so bad you can smell it quite some distance from the tower so I'm not comfortable leaving it on.
Here's the mystery:
Is it possible that it's all just a coincidence, that the power supply decided to die coincidentally after testing the video card in another PC, or could testing the video card in a different PC have caused the power supply to burn up? The problem is definitely the power supply, but what I'm wrestling with is the fact that the server has been on for probably several weeks straight with no issue, and it decides to quit immediately after testing the video card in another PC. I know the coincidence is possible but it seems like a stretch.spctrl wrote:
It is probably rather simple.. I've had the same general thing happen many times. When you turn on your machine the hardware demands a lot more power compared to when it is just running. Disks and fans need to spin up and so forth. So this PSU might have been fine if you had just kept it powered on, it would never have happened. Having said that it's bad that such a powerful unit dies, but I've come to accept that most power supplies are garbage when it comes to reliability.. Doesn't matter if you spend extra $$$ on a "good" brand or if you stick to cheaper ones - they just suck in general..
If I had the money I'd buy a UPS to remove power surges and such, but until then I will have to buy a new PSU every second year I guess.
That makes sense. I emailed the company to get an RMA yesterday, and have not heard back yet. I don't have the money to buy a new one so it really depends on them replacing it under the warranty. I'm sure I'll be without the server up to a month until it's fixed. -
Dv7-2185dx Power supply and Fan issues
A little while ago, my fan started making ridiculously loud noises under normal operating. It sounded as though it was possibly grinding on something, and as my notebook's warranty expired some number of months ago, I decided to take it apart myself and try to diagnose it.
In the taking apart process, a bit of an issue happened, and long story short, two cables got pulled from their white jack head. It was part of the power supply ( hp spare part # 536857-001), that had two parts that went into the system board, the top of which had a six pin jack head, and the bottom of which had a two pin jack head (with a red and black cable. When I searched online for replacements, they only seemed to have the top half of the power cable, and not these other two mysterious wires.
After trying to set the wires back in and putting the computer back together, I managed to boot the machine up with essentially no problems. However, this only lasted a short time in testing, because when I moved the computer back 10 feet to my room from the table I was working on, the screen would no longer power on. So I began re taking apart the computer, and found out that the computer will still power on without those two wires in, but the screen appears to be completely off. Not even just the back light failing, but the screen seemed to be completely off.
So this leaves me with a few questions that hopefully someone can answer.
1) What on earth do these two wires do or power?
2) What is the best way to repair the wire?
3) I'm pretty sure that the red wire is on the left side and the black wire on the right side, but can anyone confirm that?
4) Has anyone had any similar issues with the fan? I'm assuming I'm going to have to replace it, but I don't really know.
Thanks in advance,
Matthew Nickolai
(photos incoming as soon as I can find a cable to connect my camera to my computer)What is the real name to that part??? except my laptop is the dv7-2180us but i think our plugs are probably similar. Mine has a short and I tried to order it but ended up only getting the bigger plug instead of both of them. The part number you listed was the one that I ordered but its not the one that goes in my laptop. The pre sales support told me to speak to a technician but since mine is no longer in warrenty I have to call and more then likely they'll charge me or ill get some person I cant understand.
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Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p
Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
NathanQuote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp. -
IMac G5 bluetooth + airport + power supply problems - oh and the dvd drive
Yeah, seems like a lot is going wrong with my mac lately. I bought the iMac G5(no isight) model last year around july. I had some power issues (i.e. leaving the house with it turned on to come home and find it off) For the last year though that was all that was wrong. Once I had to reinstall OS X because it would not find the OS X harddrive during one of these power losses, but that was it.
Then about two weeks ago, I came home to a turned off iMac. I thought the power had gone out in my apartment, but the clocks were all right, and to my surprise the iMac would not turned on. Because I am not under warranty I searched online and found an extended exchange program for my emc model. (http://www.apple.com/support/imac/powersupply/repairextension/) I made an appt at the apple store and they replaced the power supply.
I got the machine back two nights ago and my bluetooth hardware wasn't recognized. And I now had a new "ink" system preference panel in the hardware section which aparently is some sort of handwriting recognition tablet. It ticked me off, but I just wanted to use my computer.
Well today I came home from work and my computer was acting funny. Everywhere I clicked brought up dashboard. This had never happened before and I had no choice but to force a shutdown. Powered it back up and poof, there goes my airport card. No hardware recognized. Now I have a 25 ft cable running the floor of my apartment. This was cause enough to call apple. I was told to make another apointment to bring the computer in. The guy made it sound like it was no big deal to lug a 30 lb bulky computer 40 miles and through a crowded mall. He also made no promises that the repairs would be covered under the exchange program.
I just wanted to hear any suggestions before I decide whether or not its worth it to bring in the computer. Nothing shows up in system profiler under bluetooth or airport. Should I just lie to the "genius" and tell them that my computer still shuts down randomly? I think that way they would at least replace the logic board (which I think is the problem) before telling me to sell my kidney and pay for repairs. I've tried reseting the SMU, and I looked at the bluetooth and airport cards to see if they had been accidently disconnected during the PS replacement. They are actually screwed into the logic board so I think their connections are efficient.
Oh and about the DVD drive. I have to use two cd's in order to burn a single disc. The first disc I put in the drive NEVER works. It spins for about 30 seconds then starts buzzing like blender and spits the cd back out. The second blank disc I put in USUALLY works, but sometimes it takes three discs. This problem has always been there since day 1, but I don't burn enough cd's for it to be an issue.
Thank you for listening to my gripes. I really don't think I'll make the mistake of buying the first issue of a model.
iBook G4 900mghz, iMac G5 20" 2.0 ghz Mac OS X (10.4.8)OK, first thing -to restore your bluetooth, shut down, unplug for a few minutes and then reboot. Thay usually brings the BT back. You should also repair permissions. Reset your SMU nd your PRAM as well.
Try those four things and please post back,
Miriam -
Hi all - My mac pro 1,1 has an enigmatic problem. It's quad-core, 3Ghz, running OS X 10.7.5. The problem began some months back, when running HD video conferences, HD streaming videos and some other graphics-moderate (I won't say intense) uses, such as slide shows in Just Looking. My machine has an ATY, RadeonX1900 card and 2 monitors - both Apple displays, one being 30 inch 2560x1600, the other being 24 inch 1920x1200.
When I start those types of graphics-moderate apps, after about 5 minutes, something would crash (the monitors making a noise as it did) and the displays would both go black. The power did not appear to be fully cut off from the monitors. I think that the underlying applications, however, did not crash. So, I could still hear and speak to people during video conferences, and I could hear the sound tracks of videos.
Attempts to restart the computer and get the monitors back did not immediately work to undo the problem, if done straight away. The only way to correct the problem (so as to have the monitors work) was to wait for a few minutes and then restart.
After a lot of puzzled looking at console logs (and I confess that I am not an expert), I ran into a blank.
But, because of the timing of the crashes (after ~5minutes use) and restarts (after some minutes wait), I reasoned that the problem might be temperature related.
Once on that path of thought, I found this article:
http://worldtv.com/blog/guides_tutorials/fixing_an_overheating_mac_pro_no_expens e_required.php
I installed both Temperature Monitor and SMCFanControl. And I experimented, and got interesting results:
Now to the puzzling bit: SMCFanControl shows that the speed of the Power Supply Fan doesn't vary much, even if I use SMCFanControl to ramp fan speeds right up. All of the other fans react to SMCFanControl, going up to and above 2500rpm when commanded. But the Power Supply Fan does not. Having watched it for a few days now, the Power Supply Fan, according to AFCFanControl, never varies outside of a range from about 600-640 rpm, regardless of what I do with AFCFanControl.
Also (and not surprisingly), whenever the graphics-moderate apps run, when I ramp all the fan speeds up using SMCFanControl, Temperature Monitor shows that the all of the temperatures within the machine plummet, except in the power supply locations. Power Supply Location 2 is the worst affected. Because the Power Supply Fan does not react as the other fans do, the "crashes" still occur.
I could post some screen shots of the read outs of SMCFanControl and Temperature Monitor, although I think I have covered the key points in this post.
It seems that the Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not respond to increased loads.
Instinctively, I'm worried that if that's right, it might be a hard problem to fix. Any suggestions? Help! I would really appreciate them!
Cheers
PThanks for your response Grant. I had already read about, and I think excluded, dust in graphics card/fan/assembly as a cause. The entire inside of the computer, including the graphics card/fan/assembly, is as clean as a whistle. It looks clean. I've cleaned the dust out every now and then (including a few days ago). Also, my undersanding (derived from the article, linked in my first post) is that I might expect to see high temperatures in the Northbridge and memory module B if the graphics card was overheating. According to Temperature Monitor, however, locations do not increase in temperature when I run the relevant apps. Finally, the graphics card/assembly does not feel too hot to touch.
It is strange that SMCFanControl lists the Power Supply Fan as being software controllable, if that fan is not. Still, your comments are consistent with my observations, as the fan simply does not respond to software control.
There are two upsides: First, I've something of a work-around. I've worked out what temperature must be achieved in Power Supply Location 2 for a crash to occur, and I can watch that location in Temperature Monitor, terminating the process before that treshold is reached. Of course, that's not ideal. Second, ramping all the other fans up does significantly delay the onset of the problem, and makes recovery time much quicker.
Is there any donwside to peridically ramping up the other fans when running the relevant apps? Given that it causes all of the other locations to cool significantly, could this lessesn the life expecancy of the mahcine? (I don't want to run the fans up all the time - that's like sitting next to a jet ready for take off!)
Also, a correction to my first post: Yesterday, with all the other fans running on full and running an HD streaming video, the Power Supply Fan did, eventually, slowly, come up to ~740rpm, which is much higher than the ~640rpm maximum I had previously seen, and this may have aided delaying the onset of the problem.
I'm not sure where this leaves me? The problem might now be able managed. Well, sort-of. But it's not eliminated. -
Help with using itunes with 4s library after i upgraded to iPhone 5 and computer power supply went
long story hopefully an easy fix....
on wensday my power supply went and had to ship computer across country to Puget Computer Systems as we weren't sure if it was power supply or mobo...luckily it was power supply.
i daily backed up iphone 4s with itunes (10.7) as i do all music manually, playlists, etc. have like 3,000 plus songs, videos, audiobooks, mail aaccts and about 48 apps.
so next day (sept 19th) apple comes out with iOS 6 which i update my 4s to with no problem. I wanted a day to play with it to learn my way around.
next day i wait in line for 8 hours overnite and was #2 in line at apple store for my ATT 32gb white iPhone 5. while at apple store I get my icloud backup which gets all paid music,apps, etc since itunes version 10.3 (i always did both backups so as not to lose my contacts more than anything.
I have other paid stuff that is in library on computer along with audiobooks and about 2700 more songs.
my icloud backup put the playlists on iPhone but not most of the music for them as lots were ripped from my cd's.as i double them up making a copy on iPhone and a copy on itunes.
So I have been using iPhone 5 with no problems just don't have all of itunes library on it. My computer is coming back this week how do I plug in iPhone 5 via USB (which will be seen as new phone even though it has same name) and use my existing iTunes 10.7 library which the backups in iTunes still has iOS 5.1.1 on it?
There must be an easy way of doing it as i don't want to wipe off iphone 5 again as i don't see any purpose my library is all organized perfectly. I know my way around windows 7 pro 64 bit pretty well just don't know what itunes is going to say once it sees "joe's iPhone" again and installs the usb drivers and icon for it. what will it ask in regards to library and how do i use it with previous iOS on it?
Thank you very much for the help as I am going to need it.
yes i broke the cardinal rule of cross posting and apoligize for it just amazed i couldn't find answer via google nor any apple store genius knew it either.Hi All,
Any help?
No one has any answers here amoungst all this apple knowledge?
Thank you -
I am using an Agilent Power Supply to apply a voltage to a
thermistor to heat an Al chassis. I want to use LabVIEW to tell
the power supply to apply 5V for 10 minutes, then step to 7V for 10
minutes, etc. I am completely new to LabVIEW, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
In addition to that, I want to place a type J thermocouple onto the Al
surface and use a Keithley 2000 DMM to monitor the temperature (it has
a built in conversion from V to Temp for type J). I will also be
using another Kelthley 2000 DMM to record the output voltage of a new
uncalibrated thermocouple. I would like to collect the output
voltage for this uncalibrated thermocouple and the temperature reading
from the type J simultaneously. How should I go about doing this
in LabVIEW? I will be using version 6.1. The power supply
and DMMs will be connected to a PC using GPIB.
Again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated- I have no idea
where to begin on such a project. I have taught myself how to
make a basic VI- converting temp in oC to oF, but that is as far
as my knowledge goes.What you want to do should be fairly straightward and a good way to learn labview.
First off, if you haven't already, I would download the drivers for the Keithley and Agilent instruments. I found the keithley drivers at the link below. You will need to find the labview drivers for the Agilent PS at their website. Drivers are the VI's you will use in your program to control the insturments.
http://sine.ni.com/apps/we/niid_web_display.download_page?p_id_guid=E3B19B3E90B0659CE034080020E74861
If you open Labview and go to the help menu and click on Labview bookshelf there is alot of information on getting you started coding labview. This should get you started, if you have anymore questions just ask in this same thread and I am sure you will get all the help you need.
Brian
Message Edited by BrianPack on 09-14-2005 05:21 PM
Message Edited by BrianPack on 09-14-2005 05:21 PM -
I'm rather new to using labview and I having an
issue with a test Data Aquisition lab I'm trying to setup using a
Keithley 6221 AC/DC current source and a basic PCI M-series NI-DAQmx.
First of all, I'm looking to update the current value on a power
supply at a rate of atleast 10Hz and I'm using SCPI commands and VISA
communication through ethernet to do so. Attached below is the VI I
have written.
The issue I'm having is this:
My VI will
loop through the values fine in software, or so it seems. I am unable
to get the Power supply to update sequentially if I don't set my loop
delay to anything greater than 130ms. If I try to run the loop faster
it starts skipping values instead of counting 1,2,3,4,5,1,2,...etc. it
goes 1,2,4,5,2,4,1,2 on the display of the power supply and my DAQ unit
also skips these values so I know that the number just isn't getting
read to the Power supply in time. I was wondering if this was due to
my sloppy programming or if it is a hardware issue, my computer or the
method of communication to the power supply? Is this due to the fact
that I'm using ethernet and VISA communication? Is there a faster way
to communicate or is GPIB faster? Any input at all would be extremely
helpful.
On a side note: Right now I'm using an pre-determined
array of values that I can update on the fly but in the future this
with be put into a closed-loop control system. The value for the
power supply output will be determined by the loop and sent that way.
Attachments:
basic DC loop 6221 Keithley.vi 145 KBAlso, one of the string constants is NOT set to '\' Codes Display. Here is an alternative method of calculating the index. I removed the DAQ and VISA stuff since I could not run it.
Lynn
Attachments:
basic DC loop 6221 Keithley.2.vi 16 KB -
Power supply needed for MS-7220 (Diamond Plus) and others.
The following statement is taken form the K8B Diamond Plus Manual.
For ATX 12V power connection, it should be greater than 18A.
If I am interpreting correctly, the ATX 12V connector should have dedicated to it a minimum of 18A.
My first, question is if the Power Supply has two or more rails, how do you know the power dedicated to the ATX 12 connector on the Power Supply?
Second, if a +12V rail is not dedicated the connector, how do you know what is connected to each rail of the Power Supply?
This maybe the source of why many are saying, they have more stable system performance when using single rail Power Supplies.
I have tried eleven different manufactures to get more detailed Power Supply specifications, but no responses; today through February 1st is the Chinese New Year.
Those of you running the K8B Diamond Plus, what are you using for Power Supplies and are you having any instability problem?
One thing I did find curious was that going the manuals and in most all of the newer Socket 939 motherboards have this specification, but nothing in the motherboards specifications of on the MSI Web Site about this required and the are a lot of 500-600 Watt power supplies sold that do not meet this specification.
The statement Total Wattage does not mean a thing has even more meaning to me now.
Are we going to have to know the Current Rating of each cable on the output of a Power Supply now to insure we are purchasing the correct Power Supply?
RogerRoger
Ihave a Tagan 580w U22 with switchable dual/combined +12v rails and it is very stable,set it combined for 35a.
Only thing to ponder was the 4/8 pin +12v/p4 connector,power supply has the correct split 2x4pin connectors so does the board but there is a little removable cover over 4 pins,so thinking MSI fitted it there for a reason I have fitted only one 4 pin connector,no problems as yet.
Think you may well have a point re the 18a.
I have just given my son my old sli platinum/cpu/heatsink/ram/vga card,this setup ran 250/11/4 @ 1.4v & ram 2.5 3 3 7 1.1 @ 2.75v with the Tagan.this setup now fitted in his case but with a dual 18a rail Enermax and he can't o/c stable to the old settings.Case has better cooling than the wavemaster it all came from.
Dont think the enermax is bad just that it supplies the power a different way.
Regards
Rossoevo -
I purchased a used 1st Gen Time Capsule with a 1 tb hard drive.
When I plugged it in and did the initial setup, it worked fine, but gave me a hard drive error. A few minutes later the green light turned solid orange, then blinking orange, then the status light went off. The lights in back stayed on.
I removed the hard drive and rebooted, it turned green for 5-10 minutes then reverted back to a solid orange, blinking orange, then went off.
Next I purchased a remanufactured internal power supply, and installed it (without the hard drive in). It turned green almost immediately. After about 15-20 minutes, I decided to try to install the hard drive again, booted it up, and tried to erase the hard drive with was working properly according to the software. It stopped erasing the disc after about 20 minutes and turned solid orange again, then blinking, then no status light (but back lights were still lit).
I'm a bit flabbergasted at this point, any suggestions on what to do next? I think i've pretty much replaced everything except the logic board, but can't seem to find any information on the symptoms of a logic board malfunction.
Thanks!!!!!!!A Gen3 is identical board to a Gen4 although they have some differences in firmware and wireless card was updated on every model.. but a Gen3 is substantially faster than Gen1, Gen2 which also have identical boards.
You can with careful shopping get a Gen3 pretty cheap.
Most use a delta power supply which I think is a lot better than the flextronics used in most Gen1/2
You can sell back the parts to ebay.. people still would buy the power supply etc. Even just the case can be useful to a repairer.
But if the board is gone.. it is hard to repair.. not impossible.. but hard.
Gen 3 and Gen 4 are not without faults.
See this page.
https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/new-issue-with-a1355-gen-3-tc
I have fixed it a different way.. by using the small converters you can buy in bulk from ebay for $1 each.. KIS3R33 .. they produce 3.3V at 2A peaking at 3A.. amazing.. I keep using them to replace onboard power converters by removing the inductor and simply power directly.. the end result has worked great. You can simply change the resistors around and get any output from 1v to 20v depending on input.
Is it worth doing it .. no of course not.. it will waste many more hours than $50 is worth.. but it is kind of fun that you can actually make things work again.
Here is a pic of the Gen 3 totally powered by me. All onboard power removed.
This was to track down the fault in the Gen3.. but I am kind of pleased that it ended up neat enough and reliable enough to work for more than a year.. the Gen3 still serves as a way to get Netflix via network for a friend running 24/7.
The units supply (from left to right)
1v, 1.1v, 3.3v, 5v, 1.8v
It is feed by 12v supply which is also directly connected to the hard disk.
So it is possible to fix.. !! Only got to be a bit crazy. -
IMac G5, nuke and pave, new power supply, want to start fresh!
Hi there. My iMac G5 is old and was put away for years after the power supply broke. Well, my 6 year old decided to fix it. Sent the power supply off for repair. $59 later, we're back on... but we are ONLY back on. Nothing is booting up. Just spinning and flashing a ???. I'm on Lion with all my other computers. How can I just nuke the old G5's OS and start fresh? I have old Snow Leopard Disks. Can I start from that? Any thoughts?
The latest OS you can use on a G5 is 10.5.8, Snow Leopard is only for intel machines. Use a retail copy of Leopard and you should be all set, or use the install discs that came with the machine. You can call Apple, give them your serial number and they will send you new install discs.
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I am new to the Macbook community. I own this Macbook since 10/2012.
My Macbook Pro 15 with Retina Display suddenly totally stopped responding. No display, no activity on keyboard. When I connect power supply cable, the Mac makes a noise as if it is starting up, but this lasts a second and this sound comes and goes the whole time the power cable is connected.
Any advice?
Thanks!Reset the SMC and the NVRAM:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063
The try a safe boot:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201262
Any change?
Ciao. -
I have a macbook air (mid 2012) and a thunderbolt display (27'').
Do I absolutely need to connect the power supply together with the thunderbolt cable ?
I found that the screen won't wake up if only the thunderbolt connection is plugged. Is this normal ?I just got my ATD and late 2011 MBP up and running. I've not tried running without the power adapter from the ATD plugged in, but I just tried and didn't have any problems with the display not waking. You may want to take your query to the ATD forum - https://discussions.apple.com/community/peripherals/thunderbolt_display - perhaps someone there has experienced a similar issue.
Good luck,
Clinton
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