Power Mac G4 power

We have a Power Mac G4 acrylic tower. It has 867Mhz CPU Speed, 133MHz Bus Speed. Don't know how much info is needed. Today when we push the power button, the button lights, but when released, it goes out and the computer does not come on. We are thinking that it may be the power supply has gone out. Does anyone know about what it should cost to have this replaced? Is this something we could do ourselves? We're wondering if we might find the power supply online and be abel to put it in ourselves. Has anyone done this? Does anyone know where we might find the power supply online? We will do it ourselves if possible but would like to know what we should be paying if we have to go that route. We find there is a great variable in what repair shops charge and want to make certain we are not being overcharged if we have to take it in.
I appreciate any input anyone might be able to give.
Thanks,
Kaye

Firstly, you accidently posted in a G5 forum. Some of the people here may also have a G4 but you're likely to obtain more specific info in the proper forum.
The computer you describe could be replaced with something similar for $200. Power supplies, on the other hand, start over $200. PC power supplies are at least half as much but you'd really have to know exact specifications and dimensions for the generic approach to work. You could search on eBay for a used Mac power supply but who knows how much life is left in it.
If you can't get it working and still need a G4, you might consider purchasing a used one with minimal specs and transferring existing hard drive and RAM into it unless you find a great deal on one configured just the way you like it.

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I updated iTunes on my Mac mini power pc and it nolonger works with my ipod. I can no longer manage my music.

System SW said there was a new iTunes update so I updated and now I can't sync of manage my music on my iPod?
Mac min Power PC
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Power Mac G5 Dual 2.5 freezes up, Power Mac G5 Dual 2.5 freezes up

Hello
I inherited a Dual 2.5 PPC Power Mac G5 from my sister. She was having problems with it suddenly freezing up. She replaced the hard drive but that didn't fix it, and sicne she had a newer Macbook Pro she gave up on it. When I got it I replaced the video card on it with an ATI Radeon, and it seemed to run fine for a while, and then the problem returned. It seemed to have returned after I did all the Apple software upgrades on it (It's running Leopard), but that might be a coincidence. I noticed under Diagnostics on the power up test that some RAM had failed. I also noticed that it was running on 1 gb of RAM even though 2 gb were installed. I removed the faulty Ram (4 256 mb dimms) and hoped that that was the problem. Unfortunately it wasn't. I also installed a temperture reading program. It showed that CPU A is running around 80 C at times and is usually about 10C hotter than CPU B. I'm not sure though if 80C is normal for a G5 or not. I noticed that when it was unplugged that it wouldn't retain the time and date, and took a look at the battery, and sure enough it was starting to leak (but hadn't leaked on to any components). I've ordered a new bttery for it.
I ran a check with Disk Utility and found the HD was ok, but permissions were a bit messed up. Disk Utility wasn't able to fix some of the permissions, but i don't think this is the underlying problem.
I've also opened it and gave everything a thourough vacuuming and cleaning and reseated any removable parts. I took the cover off the liquid cooling unit and vacuumed out the dust. There didn;t seem to be any coolant leaks I could see.
Any suggestions on where I should go from here? I unfortuantely don't have any of the disks for it, so I can't run the AHT until I find one for it (the one for my Macbook Pro wouldn't work).
Sometimes it just freezes. Other times it freezes and the computer fans go on high. It will finally get to a point where it shows the grey multi-language restart screen (where it says to hold down the button to shut it off and the restart).
It was frustrating because on my workbench it was running fine after I switched the video card, and it didn't freeze at all. When I moved it to our computer desk though, the problems returned. Tonight it was to the point where it didn't last 5 minutes.
My thoughts are:
1. Maybe All the RAM is bad
2. Maybe the dead battery is messing it up?
3. When it is heating up with use, something is expanding and not connecting any longer.
What are your thoughts?

Hi Curtis,
I'm not sure though if 80C is normal for a G5 or not. I noticed that when it was unplugged that it wouldn't retain the time
Nope, not normal, way too hot, above 70°C... If you have any temps in the 70°C/160°F range, that's likely it.
Have you blown the dust out of everything with high pressure air?\
1. Maybe All the RAM is bad
The Memory test can really only be trusted if it finds a problem, not if it doesn't find a problem.
Memtest OS X...
http://www.memtestosx.org/joomla/index.php
Rember is a freeware GUI for the memtest ...
http://tech.kateva.org/2005/10/rember-freeware-memory-test-utility.html
If you're sure the RAM is good, try the Hair Dryer trick...
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=13240047#13240047
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15223603#15223603
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15499912#15499912
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15613068#15613068
It can show on any G5, and even many other computers & electronic devices of the period.
http://www.macintouch.com/reliability/pmg5.html
http://lowendmac.com/ppc/power-macintosh-g5.html
2. Maybe the dead battery is messing it up?
Might be time to replace the PRAM Battery, 4 years is close to their lifespan, far less if ever without AC power, & can cause strange startup problems, thoigh not once vooted as a rule...
See which one your G5 has...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/CR2032/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
3. When it is heating up with use, something is expanding and not connecting any longer.
Could be the lead free solder issue with the RAM slot, and/or the thermal paste between CPUs & heatsinks need replacing...
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16223700#16223700

Power Mac 10.5.8 Cannot Eject Drives or Send Files to Trash

Hello,
I'm posting to the forum for a friend. He is using a Power Mac OSX 10.5.8 with Dual 2 GHz Power PC G5 processor. The past two months he has been having issues deleting files and ejecting drives (flash drives and external hard drives). He will move files to the trash and the animation (poof of dust) and sound will occur but the actual file is not deleted. Also, when he tries to eject any drives, an error message appears stating the drive is in use by other applications. However, no other applications besides finder are open, and when I check the task manager, none are running in the background. This error has caused one of his external hard drives to become corrupted. We recently updated the computer and after the update the permissions were messed up and we couldn't even create a new folder due to insufficient permisions. We're currently running all available first-aid commands from disk utility. If anyone knows what the issue might be, please respond.
Much appreciated, blessings.
Isabel

Hello,
Could be many things, we should start with this...
"Try Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu at top of the screen. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
*Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.*
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Select your Mac OS X volume.
5. Click Repair Disk, (not Repair Permissions). Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk."
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Then try a Safe Boot, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, reboot when it completes.
(Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive.)
If perchance you can't find your install Disc, at least try it from the Safe Boot part onward.

Power Mac G5: A common dilemma: to upgrade or buy new

I know there are a lot of discussions on this topic going around, but everyone's needs and uses are different, so I'd appreciate any input on my situation.
I own a Dual 1.8 GHz Power Mac G5 with only 1GB RAM and a failing 160GB hard drive.
At this point, I basically only use this machine for web browsing, iTunes, and Garageband, and am running Tiger.
I had been having some major hard drive problems so I wiped my system and re-installed Tiger , importing everything from my iBookG4 (which, I recently dropped and the screen connection has failed and is unusable except for as an external hard drive in target disk mode. it is probably too expensive to fix for what its worth so I will probably try to sell it for scrap).
Anyway, everything was ok for about a week until I opened firefox and noticed all my settings and bookmarks were gone. When I restarted my computer, my music, pictures, documents, and movies folders were all unable to be located (although my applications were fine and my hard drive still showed that the space was the same). I'm not sure if I imported some problem from my iBook or if my hard drive was just messing up again, but I've decided that I either need to upgrade or get a new computer.
Basically, I am thinking about upgrading my memory, getting a new hard drive, and upgrading to leopard (mostly for time machine). Or, possibly getting a new iMac or waiting a bit and then getting a new iMac or even (gasp) a PC (highly unlikely).
I was going to get the memory from ramjet and I was thinking of only adding 1GB to make 2GB but could be persuaded of getting more but 400Mhz DDR memory is a bit more expensive than other types. As for the hard drive, I was thinking about getting a Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 SATA 3.0Gb/s 320-GB Hard Drive with a 16 MB cache. I could pay $15 more for a 500GB with 32 MB cache but i really don't need the space and am unsure whether the cache will really help much. Seagates used to have a pretty good rep I thought, but now they seem to be getting mixed reviews, so I don't know.
Obviously, I am no computer expert, so any help would be great. Would it be worth it to spend between $250 and $325 to get the memory, drive, and leapord when I could maybe sell my G5 and my 23" apple cinema display (the old clear kind) and get an iMac? I could maybe get about $700 - $800 for the G5 and around $300 - $350 for the display. Will an iMac be faster than my G5 with the upgrades? I don't think I need a mac pro for my current uses.
Thanks for your help. Feel free to offer advice on what to do with my iBook too.
-rhineth

Memory: $60 for 2 x 1GB, I'd call that very affordable.
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/3200DDR2GBP/
Disk drives: 2 x $69 for pair of WD Caviar 640GB
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Western%20Digital/WD6400AAKS/
It is not about capacity as much as speed and quiet, cool, and how well it handles OS X. I use half the drive, other half is unformatted free space. I'd skip the Seagates. 7200.11 is current.
I expect new iMacs in '09 as they are overdue.
Hard drives you keep or put in FW case.
Current Leopard is 10.5.4 DVD but would be nice to see another DVD now with 10.5.6, $109 (Amazon, maybe less Newegg?).
iMac vs others:
http://www.macworld.com/article/133467/2008/05/imaccomparison.html
http://www.barefeats.com/harper7.html
http://www.barefeats.com/imp02.html
Sounds like three things you may not be doing or have:
SuperDuper for backups. You don't need Leopard.
Disk Warrior. Everyone, or I should say "HFS+" needs #1 disk repair utility.
Backup drives. Two backup sets you switch between, and a small "emergency" partition on one for running Disk Warrior and such.
I replace or move older drives to backup use and put new boot drive in on a yearly basis. Some new drives and memory should be all you need. A couple people even stress their system with graphics and video, and upgrading to 3 or 4 new drives revived their system so that they could hold on and wait another year.

How to erase a hard drive on a i MAC Power PC with OSX 10.5.8 pre-intel?

I got this i Mac G5 Power PC with a 20" screen (no iSight) and last generation of i Mac repaired. Capacitors and a power supply did revive my machine and it works fine. I would like to donate my machine and want to erase the hard drive and make sure that all my personal data is gone.
I have the Leopard disk and I am told that if I booth my machine with the disk while holding the C key then I can go to Disk Utility and erase my hard drive.
Does anyone have a step-by-step approach to guide me through this?
Any help will be most appreciated!
Thank you,
Guy

Drive Preparation
1. Boot from your OS X Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Steps 4-6 are optional but should be used on a drive that has never been formatted before, if the format type is not Mac OS Extended, if the partition scheme has been changed, or if a different operating system (not OS X) has been installed on the drive.

How do I install windows home server on my power mac?

My power mac g4 is the graphite version I think and I put the disc in my computer and booted up and I pressed alt on my windows keyboard ( i think its options on a mac keyboard) but when I got to the screen where it displays the options to boot from the only one I saw was the hard drive? I tried putting my xp disc in too and that didn't show up either?

If you just want to share files, that can be done with Mac OS X File Sharing. It is already available in "regular" Mac OS X, and all you have to do is turn it on.
For best performance, you can attain "near Hard_Drive" speeds using Gigabit Ethernet cabling and Gigabit Ethernet Switches. Wireless in quite a bit slower.
This article discusses wiring it up:
Creating a small Ethernet network
and this article discusses configuring File Sharing:
http://homepage.mac.com/car1son/os9xnet_nfilesharing.html

A UPS model that works with Mac Native software to do a graceful shutdown and automatic restart during a power failure.

I've tried 3 UPS's (2 APC and one TripLite) that state they are OSX compatible, however, they do not fully respond to the native osx setting in (system Preferences/ Energy Saver/ UPS/Start up automatically after a power failure). This is what happens:
During a power outage, the OS does a graceful shutdown, but does not reboot when power is restored.
Apparently, the UPS is not notified to turn off during the shut down process. The power (on-Off-On) cycle is required by the mac to restart.
Trip lite tech support says they have software that works with Windows and linux to do this, but not mac.
I've tried two older APC UPS's, One Smart UPS1500 and a Back-UPS 1500 with the same result on two different servers and one iMac.
At this point I'm looking for a make and model of a UPS that does work. If anyone can verify a make and model that actually does this, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Its a simple test, just pull the plug on your UPS, wait for the system to shut down, and then plug the UPS back in. The system should reboot.

Many of the CyberPower UPS units are compatible. Checkout the home solutions on this page: http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups-systems.html

I need a new power cord for my Mac book Pro its the T type mag connector. I don't need a Tech just a new cord. How do I buy one. The closest Aplle store is 75 miles away and I do not drive.

I need a new power cord for my Mac book Pro its the T type mag connector. I don't need a Tech just a new cord. How do I buy one. The closest Aplle store is 75 miles away and I do not drive.

Are you in the US? Order one from here: http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_mac/mac_accessories/power?mco=MTM3NjU xNDg
Or check out Best Buy.

How do I use my Mac plugged into power?

Hey guys, I usually use my laptop at home, plugged into power, for 3-4 hours a day (at night, most of the time), always with full charge.
I'm aware of the battery calibration and that Apple suggests that we do it once a month and everything.
My doubt is, during the period when I'm not using my Mac (during daytime, when I'm at work), what's preferable:
1. That I leave it plugged into the power, so the charger keeps the green light and the battery level?
OR
2. That I unplug it from power when I'm not using and then, when I get home to use, I plug it and use?
I've been doing the second way, but I'm afraid that during the hours that the laptop is off and unplugged from power, that it might lose some battery capacity and then, when I plug it again, the charger start to charge the battery.
Anyway, the way I've been doing, when I connect the charger, it's always the green light, it never starts to charge, although the battery level never exceeds 99% ( but it says "fully charged").
So, what's preferable?
Thanks!

There is no reason to leave the computer on battery power if you can connect it to an AC power source. Leave it connected to the charger unless you need to use it on battery power.
About Batteries in Modern Apple Laptops
Apple - Batteries - Notebooks
Extending the Life of Your Laptop Battery
Apple - Batteries
Determining Battery Cycle Count
Calibrating your computer's battery for best performance
Battery University

I want to run hardware test on my Power Mac G5 but it isn't working.

What I tried:
I have the original install disc 1 which came with the machine in the optical drive (which is the usual one). I printed the hardware test guide which is on the disc, disconnected everything but mouse, keyboard and monitor. I tried to boot, pressing the Alt/Option key, but the "system picker" or boot menu won't show up. What happens is what somebody described as for "old world" macs: my system boots with no finder window open and without the white screen and apple logo (which usually shows up during startup).
I also tried something I found in a user manual pdf for Power Mac G5 on the apple archives: Booting and press-holding C (btw it's strange that this manual says something different than the manual on the original disc). What happens here is that my machine is booting from the original disc but it boots in Installation mode. I looked at every drop-down-menu I could find there for several times but there is definitely no hardware test, since this is thought to install Mac OS 10.4.
I also tried the Intel-way and holding D during boot, but no surprise, it only booted the first drive (like it should on a pre-Intel).
But something about this all is very strange. Yesterday night I tried all these steps above and when I was close to fall asleep in front of my monitor it suddenly worked and I made it finally into the hardware test. If I remember correctly, I was holding down the C key, but as I said a was pretty dizzy and can be mistaken. I ran hardware test once enhanced and it stopped during ram, giving me an error code I wrote down. But since I made it into the test and was so tired, I thought "lets continue tomorrow" which was my epic fail for this year, I guess. Today I repeated every step, every way I tried but it just doesn't work; and I read sooo many forums and Q&A's.
By the way here is my error code which appeared after 49 minutes (to proof I didn't dream this):
"2MEM/1/4: DIMM3/J14"
Why do I want to do this?
Around the 1st of September this year my Power Mac G5 didn't boot anymore (the fan speeding issue). After reading a little online I came to the point that its either my Ram memory or its my graphics card or its Pram or NVram. I resetted Pram and NVram, I also replaced battery and then it booted again for one day but on the following day it didn't. I repeated every step but the battery replacement since it was a brand new one. It can only be Ram memory or my Graphics card (which is the standard one for this machine).
Since then my Power Mac was rarely in use, only two or three times in Firewire Target Mode to access some of the data. Yesterday I wanted to do this again; booting it in FT mode but I must have connected my keyboard too late during booting and my machine surprisingly booted just fine! I was so stoked about this! Then I wanted to find out why it didn't work for a while and started several steps. Ran maintanance scripts, repaired the system volume, checked for enough free space, checked my Ram and then I stumbled on the interwebs over the hardware test which is delivered on the original install disc 1 and I never heard about this before (strange enough). What followed is written above.
What do I have?
I have this:
Modellname:
Power Mac G5
Modell-Identifizierung:
PowerMac7,3
Prozessortyp:
PowerPC G5 (3.0)
Prozessorgeschwindigkeit:
2 GHz
Anzahl der CPUs:
2
L2-Cache (pro CPU):
512 KB
Speicher:
4 GB
Busgeschwindigkeit:
1 GHz
Boot-ROM-Version:
5.2.4f1
Seriennummer (System):
CK52107BRTY
Hardware-UUID:
00000000-0000-1000-8000-000D93640EEE
Sorry for the German but I think you still get it. The PPC was delivered with 10.4 and I bought it used from a friend with his original Update disc to 10.5 and I updated to the max, 10.5.8. I have 2x 1TB drive (similar ones) together as a Raid0 and three partitions on it. (I know now that it doesnt make that much of a sense).
Yeah so I really want to find out why my machine didn't work for three months but since it is so old and I'm a student, it doesn't make any sense to me to go to an Apple store or similar to have it expensively serviced since there is no guarantee that these guys really help you (heard some stories about the local stores here).
Is there a way to re-access the hardware test and run it to the end?
As you might have noticed, I'm pretty desperate. I would soooooooo appreciate it!!
Best,
Erik

"2MEM/1/4: DIMM3/J14"
Replace the memory in the DIMM 3 slot.
If you are running Mac OS X 10.5 you can use this program to test your G5's memory:
http://www.kelleycomputing.net/Rember/
It will subject your RAM to a more thorough test than Apple Hardware Test.

HT201897 Does a Mac Mini purchased in the USA require a power converter for operation in Europe or should I only purchase a different power cord for it?

Does a Mac Mini purchased in the USA require a power converter to operate outside of the USA or can I simply purchase a different power cord for it?

Depending on which European country (should their mains access plug/port shape vary) the
cord set with correct ends on it has to match. You can buy a cord that plugs into the Mini
where the factory cord goes, and the other end has one for the wall source shape. The wire
for the application should be able to support 110~240VAC.
With the cord or an accurate image in hand, you could either get a new cable to match both
realities (mini + wall supply mains local) or an adapter (US/Standard to EU/Local) for just
the head or input part of the original Apple cable. One plugs into the other, then into wall.
If you have a new Mini with a small modular plug/port on the computer end of the power wire,
it would have only two holes and no ground; the other end would have two prongs of equal
shape and size. Not a polarized plug and not a grounded three-prong. To get a replacement
power wire for the MINI to go from power source to the Mini is recommended, if you are going
to be staying in one location for awhile. A Travel Kit that offers no electrical conversion but only
the physical shape adapter kit, should a available in travel stores, airports; big box discount
stores, computer and electronic stores. This page shows the cord end of the appliance shapes.
The other end would be the mains shape for whichever country you are going to....
http://www.signalandpower.com/European-Power-Cords/
So to match the country or regional power mains type is a primary concern for obtaining the
correct replacement cord to supply the Mini with local mains power. The end which plugs into
the Mini is of a certain type (numbers for EU and elsewhere are published, see link + images)
& the end that gets plugged into the mains or utility side, needs to match the local specification.
The link to Apple, to contact for Support and Service information in prior post, should be able
to help find a source for the local replacement type cord they'd sell local people with a Mini.
Apple local sources offer replacements for this purpose; and for travelers, a second cord for
a direct use (not adapter plugs) is a better bet. For those who only need a cord in two places.
If you are traveling to Denmark, UK, Swiss or other EU countries require different adapters.
Even places where the power itself may be somewhat similar. However your MINI has an
automatic power supply that will conform to that energy standard, you only need to supply a
correct non-transforming adapter. Simply a connection to adapt one shape to another.
The general purpose travel kit that is not specialized to Apple power adapters, would have a
plastic plug/adapter with the local pins on one side, and the US/standard two slots on the other.
So, no circuitry nor any other change of electrical power inside this device would be required.
http://www.signalandpower.com/2-Prong-Plug-Adapters/
http://www.signalandpower.com/Convert-to-Europe-CEE-716-plug/
http://www.signalandpower.com/Swiss-AC-Power-Cords/
In other words, I believe my other post already covered this. On the ground on either end of the
path, adapters are common and the Mini does not use proprietary electrical components IF you
have one of the more recent shape aluminum models with the power supply built in. The older
Mini has the power brick and two wires. A US/Standard plug adapter to EU/Local would work in
either case, since all you'd do is plug the adapter plug into the local mains and the US plug into
that one... I see these kinds of discards for as little as 25¢ in thrift stores in Alaska. Or you can
buy a new one. Or you could get a complete cord with correct ends on it, for Mini + local mains.
Hopefully this helps somewhat. The only info missing is which EU country or region is involved.
Their shapes of plug are different, so the adapter end for local supply has to match their standard.
Swiss, Denmark, UK, and others offer different shapes and so on.
The Apple store in the location you are traveling should be able to supply you with a replacement
cable for a modern MINI, that has the correct local mains end, and the correct Apple mini end on
the opposite. Since the unit is automatically switching, the magic is done.
Since I supplied a means to locate any number of Apple stores, authorized service providers &
other Apple related vendors in my earlier reply: https://locate.apple.com/country you could contact
any of them along your route in the City in whichever EU country, to find a local MINI power cable.
In any event, I'm done...
Good luck and happy trails...

2Gb Memory Modules - Power Mac G5?

New here, but a returning Mac user.... at last....
Just got hold of an older (early 2005) G5 Power Mac (Dual 2.7Ghz). Can anyone tell me if it's OK to upgrade the memory using 2Gb memory modules (assuming of course I have matching pairs, and don't exceed the max memory - 8Gb I think)?
Sorry, I'm only able to find that 2 x 1Gb modules is OK, but so far nothing on 2 x 2Gb modules...
Thanks.
~Mark~

2 x 2Gb modules will not work.
Apple specs here: PMG5 RAM Requirements

Power Mac G5 (late 2005) memory showing two different speeds

Alright, here's the situation. I have a late 2005, Dual 2,0Ghz, water cooled, model, G5 Power Mac tower. These have 8 memory slots, (1 upper bank of 4 slots and one lower bank of 4 slots located directly above and below each other on the motherboard). The two inside slots (the two slots that are closest together - one from each bank) are labeled slot 1. Then the next two slots (moving outward from the middle) are slots 2, then slots 3, then slots 4. Anyway,according to the Apple specs, the memory should be set up in matching pairs of like modules: i.e. slots one = 2 X 1GB sticks of matching PC4200, slots 2 = 2 matching sticks of PC4200, etc., etc, up to a total of 8 GBs of compatible memory.
I have 8 X 1GB sticks of "matching" Kingston PC4200 memory installed, and it even shows up on the "About This Mac" page as 8 GB. However, if you take this one step further and proceed to the "More Info" page, under the "Hardware" tab, the "memory" info it shows up as 4 sticks of DDR2-PC4200, and 4 sticks of DDR2-PC3200. Ironically, slots 0,1,2,3 indicate as PC-4200 (533Mhz), and slots 4,5,6, & 7 indicate as PC-3200 (400Mhz). Can anyone give me some insight as to why this would be happening? I've also re-arrainged the memory modules, but the memory speed discrepancy stays the same.
Any help would be appreciated!

It's likely no problem if everything is running fine, some SPIDIF chip anomoly I think.
I've read several problems with Kingston RAM in Macs.
Here's my Quad G5's RAM...
DIMM0/J6700:
Size:    1 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    PC2-4200U-444
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    Unknown
Part Number:    Unknown
Serial Number:    Unknown
DIMM1/J6800:
Size:    1 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    PC2-4200U-444
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    Unknown
Part Number:    Unknown
Serial Number:    Unknown
DIMM2/J6900:
Size:    2 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    PC2-4200U-444
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    Unknown
Part Number:    Unknown
Serial Number:    Unknown
DIMM3/J7000:
Size:    2 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    PC2-4200U-444
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    Unknown
Part Number:    Unknown
Serial Number:    Unknown
DIMM4/J7100:
Size:    2 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    PC2-4200U-444
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    Unknown
Part Number:    Unknown
Serial Number:    Unknown
DIMM5/J7200:
Size:    2 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    PC2-4200U-444
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    Unknown
Part Number:    Unknown
Serial Number:    Unknown
DIMM6/J7300:
Size:    Empty
Type:    Empty
Speed:    Empty
Status:    Empty
Manufacturer:    Empty
Part Number:    Empty
Serial Number:    Empty
DIMM7/J7400:
Size:    Empty
Type:    Empty
Speed:    Empty
Status:    Empty
Manufacturer:    Empty
Part Number:    Empty
Serial Number:    Empty

Upgrading 1.8 MHz Power Mac G5 (memory and OS)

I recently purchased an iMac loaded with Leopard. I would like to use the install disk to upgrade my older Power Mac G5. My machine is running 10.3.9 currently.
I know I need to increase memory, but by how much? A salesman sold me additional memory some time ago, but it caused a lot of problems and I removed it. Now I'm leery of what to buy. Will the following memory description be appropriate, both in type and quantity to run Leopard?
1GB PC3200 DDR 400MHz Module For PowerMac G5 Models(requires pairs!), iMac G5, Mac mini 1.25GHz/1.42GHz Models. TRUE PC3200 CAS 3.0(or Faster) Non-Stacked 64x8 device Low-Noise PCB Solution! New, Lifetime Advance Replacement Warranty. (OWC3200DDR1024)
My Power Mac's memory currently consists of 2-128MB DDR SDRAM PC3200U-30330.
I'm application-oriented and not too technically savvy.

The G5s came stock with 256MB 6 yrs ago but even then it was sub-standard amount and 1.2 - 1.5GB RAM was much better for even basic light use.
2GB should be a good improvement, you have 4 DIMM slots likely. But it depends on what you plan to do or use it for. Buy from vendors that sell and cater to Mac hardware.
OEM DVDs like from an iMac can't be used, they don't load sometimes, and you really do need retail discs. Good luck finding 10.5.x DVD retail.
New drives can also do a lot to improve performance.
Realize though, other than running older PowerPC applications, the iMac should be able to do most things very well.

Power Mac G4 power

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