Power supply cables

In the upper expansion bay of the G3 DT case the power supply has some cables coming out of it. There are the larger 4-pin sockets for hooking up hard disks. Then there's a smaller 4-pin connector. Does anyone know what that smaller 4-pin connector is for? Could it be used for an extra case fan or blower?

I also believe the small 4-pin connector is for powering a Zip drive.
If you are looking for a power connection for an extra fan or blower, most come with a standard 4-pin connector for convenience. If you are out of 4-pin connector power out plugs in your Beige, simply buy a 1 into 2 plug converter. They are available in places like CompUSA, Rat Shack, and others. Also available on line.
You are dealing with low voltage DC power, so there isn't a problem in splitting the supply from one into two.
Carl B.

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My Macbook Pro with Remakes funny noise when connected to power supply cable and no other response. The best description of the sound I can give is the buz the computer makes on startup. Sound goes on and off while connected

I am new to the Macbook community. I own this Macbook since 10/2012.
My Macbook Pro 15 with Retina Display suddenly totally stopped responding. No display, no activity on keyboard. When I connect power supply cable, the Mac makes a noise as if it is starting up, but this lasts a second and this sound comes and goes the whole time the power cable is connected.
Any advice?
Thanks!

Reset the SMC and the NVRAM:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063
The try a safe boot:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201262
Any change?
Ciao.

No power supply cable for second hard drive

Hard drive in PC is crashing mechanically. Want to ghost a second hard drive before first drive crashes completely. Bought duplicate of existing hard drive, but there is no power supply cable/connector for it. Have SATA plug, but cannot power up second hard drive. What do I do?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

LB1815, welcome to the forum.
If I understand your problem correctly, this is the connector that you need. It converts a single SATA power cable to two connectors. This allows you to connect two drives with on cable. There are many other brands available on Newegg. This is just one example.
Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
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Need a piece for my power supply cable

So my mag safe power supply for my Macbook Pro has the two little "hooks" that pop out and allow you to wrap the cable around them for travel. One of the hooks broke and during the process of trying to get it fixed through Apple, by replacing the hook, I was advised you have to replace the whole thing.
I was wondering if anyone knew any place to get these little guys or had an extra one lying around that they would be willing to sell via a Paypal payment.
Thanks!

Alternative suggestion I gave to one of my clients: buy another power adapter, then use the "broken" one permanently at your desk. So rather than rushing out of the house, forgetting to pack your charger, instead leave one of the chargers in your bag. When you get home, you plug in to the "permanent" desk charger. The one on the desk would never be coiled up, or coiled up in a different way with wire ties or something. And if the charger is under your desk, well, out-of-sight, out-of-mind.
I've done this for years, ever since that first time I forgot my charger and blew my school assignment because no one on campus had a compatible charger I could borrow. While it is an additional expense, it's also a comfort that when I break the charger, I have an immediate spare, or have a second charger for troubleshooting.

I lost the power supply cable of my AirPort Extreme.

I need a power supply cord for my AirPort Extreme.

If it is the tall one, it is standard figure 8 power cable available in any store with electrical items. But not in white.. they are black and grey and even brown but never white. Also the Apple ones are top quality.
If it is the flat one you are talking about the whole power supply. Any 12v 2A or greater with standard 2.5mm dc adapter will work fine.

E30 power supply/cables and upgrading video card.

I'm thinking of buying a decent gaming card, but I can't seem to find any power cables inside my system. The video card I'm looking at has a six pin connector on it. Also, just in case I need to upgrade the power supply, is the power supply unit standard ATX?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

welcome to the forum!
the E30 doesn't come with a PCI power connector due to it only being qualified to run the quadro NVS, 400, 600, and 2000/2000D workstation graphics cards.   you would need a different PSU entirely.   due to warranty and support reasons we can't recommend aftermarket PSUs in this system.
besides, depending on the GPU you're considering, the E30 might not have sufficient airflow to support it.   these are workstations after all and not gaming systems.
similar advice was given to another E30 owner in this thread.   i'm not sure what makes the E30 such a compelling gaming platform but to each their own.
ThinkStation C20
ThinkPad X1C · X220 · X60T · s30 · 600

Power supply cable melting before my eyes

I finally joined the famed club of the dead power supply owners.
I've had several issues lately with my macbook (while never had any although owner of the very first release of it), mainly with freezing windows, slow reaction time etc.
running Activity Viewer for the past couple days, I could spot mdmimport (Spotlight index daemon) acting quite berserk.
taking up to 97% of my CPU (today it even said it took 128%???).
anyway, I thought it was a fragmented hard drive, giving a hard time to index content, but the weird thing is that I regularly use diskwarrior to adjust the content disposition.
a very weird behavior was that the laptop seemed to start hogging the CPU only on-idle (doesn't that sound a bit odd?).
while the screen was black (after the screensaver timed out) the CPU fan was going berserk, and the power supply was sure close to melting point.
I was saying I kept the Spotlight daemon under control, and noticed that it kept taking all the CPU time.
the curious bit: what the **** are you indexing if maybe only 5 files have changed since yesterday and maybe couple dozens email?
today we got to the boiling point:
I work at some friends' office, go back home, use my laptop on battery.
the battery reaches 3% and I plug the power supply in.
no magsafe light going on, smell, the cable melting before my eyes.
luckily I had some friends with a spare power supply, but had to get to the root of it.
I decided to turn off indexing. ran
%sudo mdutil -i off /
the indexing of the main drive stops.
I've been using my tiger for a few hours already with no visible sign of fatigue, delays, cpu stress.
the cpu fan runs regularly but quite (consider it's a hot weather and my home is at 27ºC).
oh, if you're any curious, do you want to know when all this started?
mh... let me thing...
with one of the most recent Security Updates.
I don't remember which one, but it's not been longer than 10 days. probably a week.
anyone seeing any light in this?

I am convinced that the melting of the magsafe adapter in 99% of the cases is caused by improperly removing your power cord to many times. Don't pull!

Help a newb connect his power supply cables to the MSI Z97 XPower AC?

My Background
I am mostly a software kind of guy, and this is my first time building a computer. I saved lots of money, did lots of research, and picked my parts.
So far, I've installed my CPU & Fan to the Motherboard, and mounted them to the case.
Now it's time to install my Power Supply. Mounting it to the case is easy. The problem comes when I have to connect the cables. The manuals don't explain the purpose of these cables or provide "step-by-step" instructions.
I've been searching for over an hour, but can't get a clear idea of what I'm supposed to do. So I'm hoping someone can help me here.
Hardware
Motherboard: MSI Z97 XPOWER AC
Power Supply: Seasonic X-1250
(EDIT: Forum does not let me link to the manuals, so for anyone who needs...please look online)
Problem
On page 29 of my motherboard manual, it shows 4 different power connection slots (JPWR1, JPWR2, JPWR3, JPWR4). Unfortunately, it doesn't explain what goes in them.
On page 59 & 61 of my Power Supply manual, there is listing of all the key cables.
I think the "Mainboard 24/20 Pin" cable goes into the "JPWR1" slot.
- So I am mostly confused about the other slots (JPWR2, JPWR3, JPWR4).
- Also, it's confusing that there are two CPU cables called "CPU 8/4 Pin" & "CPU 8 Pin".
Can anyone help me?

Quote from: myfamilyshopping on 24-March-15, 20:00:38
Hi guys, I have a follow-up question about my Seasonic PSU "PCI-E cables".
The way my PCI-E cables are designed is...
There's one end which is a single cable with a 12 hole connector...that goes into the PCI-E port on my power supply.
But then the other end splits out into two different cables, with each having a sort of 6/2 connector.
So regarding the end that splits out into two different cables...
Can each be used on different PCI-E devices?
Or is it the case that because my PSU has 3 PCI-E ports (and 3 of the cables I described)...that only 3 PCI-E devices can be powered?
all can be used however you plan to use them! all them connectors are tied to a single 104amp +12v Rail so they are getting power off a single Rail!
as long as what you plug them into do not exceed the Rail's ratings your fine (would take quite a few Graphics cards to get above that) (basically if it works it works) (would take like 2 R9-295x2's or 4 R9-290X's to get to that point)

Why my hp 625 notebook needs the power supply cable to switch on ?

i had windows 7 and now vista ....(don t ask)... .. although i have fully charged battery?

The battery can register as charged but not actually put out enough juice to boot the machine. The only way to really test it is to get another known good battery. I assume this is the original battery and is at least a couple years old?

Help!!! in need of advice power supply is dead

Hey everyone i need some advice, i live in the uk and i have a 2 year old mac book pro and the power supply cable has heated so much that it has melted and stop working, what should i do?? should i just buy a new one or complain to apple and try to and get a replacement ??

This has happened to me before.
Just take the power supply and your laptop to your apple store (make an appointment at the genius bar) and they'll swap it out free of charge as long as ur still under warranty (or apple care)

How to Replace Power Supply

I'm stuck with what I thought was going to be an easy job - compared to a G5 tower or an iMac.
I need to replace the power supply in my Mac Pro (2008) but I'm stuck at getting the small cover off. I've removed the metal plate that was under the optical drives (POV when looking through the side). But it seems there's a small cover for the power supply that's similar to the big processor cover for the liquid cooled G5 towers. I can't figure out how to remove that.
Does anyone have a link to a manual or take-apart guide for the Mac Pro?
Thanks!

Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove
the following:
• Hard drives and hard drive carriers in drive bays 3 and 4
• Optical drive carrier and optical drives
• Any PCI Express cards that block access to the power supply mounting screws
1. Using a short-handled, magnetized 2.5 mm hex screwdriver, remove the four power supply
mounting screws from the bottom of the media shelf.
2. Depress the upper right corner of the power supply and slide the power supply toward the
front of the computer.
3. Lift the power supply a short distance and rest it on the edge of the enclosure.
4. Starting with the top connector and working down, disconnect the four connectors on the
power supply cable from the four connectors on the power harness cable. Note: You must release the locking latch on each power supply cable connector before detaching the connector.
5. Remove the power supply from the enclosure.
Replacing the Power Supply:
1. Rest the power supply on the edge of the enclosure so that its cable can reach the media
shelf divider. Note: The following four steps explain how to reconnect the power supply cable connectors with the power harness connectors. When the power harness connectors are in their original position in the media shelf divider, it is not possible to see where they mate with the power
supply cable connectors. Therefore, the next step shows how to temporarily remove the power harness connectors from the divider for a better line of sight.
2. Starting with the top connector and working down, release the four power harness cable
connectors from their openings in the media shelf divider. Note: Each connector has two locking latches that hold it to the divider. To release the connector, depress the bottom latch first and then the top latch. You may find a flat-blade screwdriver useful in depressing the latches.
3. Placing a hand on either side of the media shelf divider, thread the J1 connector on the power supply cable through the top connector opening in the media shelf divider and connect it to the PS1 connector on the power harness. Repeat for the other three power supply cable connectors.
4. Important: The first three connectors on the power supply cable are marked J1, J2, and J3; the fourth connector is not marked. The four connectors on the power harness cable are marked PS1, PS2, PS3, and PS4. You must connect J1 to PS1, J2 to PS2, etc.
5. Starting at the bottom connector and working up, depress the locking latches on each power harness connector and reinsert it into its opening in the media shelf divider. Important: Test that all power supply cable connectors and power harness connectors are fully seated by tugging on the cables on both sides of each of the four paired connectors.
6. Fold the power supply cable on the bottom of the power supply bay.
7.Lift the power supply and holding the power supply at an angle, llower it into the enclosure until its
upper right corner slides under the corner lip of the enclosure.
8. Slide the power supply toward the back of the computer as far as possible.
9. Make sure the power receptacle aligns with the opening in the enclosure’s back panel and
the four screw holes in the power supply align with the screw holes in the media shelf.
10. Replace the four power supply mounting screws.

K7N2G-LISR Connecting Power Supply

I just bought the mobo K7N2G-ILSR and i will install an
AMD 2700 MHZ with a power supply of 400W in a big
tower Xaser III . Right now I´m confusing how I should plug the power supply cables ,because I can see a connector with ATX powe supply and another one with the reference JPW1. Can anyone tell me if i have to use the JPW1 connector or I have to connect only the power supply in the ATX connector?. If I sould do it this way, which is the use of the JPW1 connector.
I´m new assembling a PC and have no idea how to do this.
Thank you very much for your help and have a nice day
from Spain.

What do you mean by CPU ?.I guess you call the CPU, the case ( Xaser III built by Thermaltake) and inside there is the power supply with the ATX connector (20 PIN) and the other the JPW1 (4 PIN ) and if I understud right , I must connect both into the motherboard.
Thanks again for your help and sorry for being so ignorant in this matter.
Bye

Mac Pro power supply replacement?

We're on our yacht in Hobart, Tasmania. No access to Apple Store.
Re: Mac Pro 2006, how do I assess whether the power supply is failing?
I ask because we have experienced several times over the past couple of years the following issue. Typically in the morning I see the Mac Pro has shut down and will not startup. I go through the SMC reset procedure as per Article: HT1806. The straight forward "press the SMC Reset button" never works. Sometimes just pulling the power cord for a few minutes works. Yesterday was one of the "hard cases". None of the usual voodoo worked, so I left the Mac Pro for about 6 hours with power and all cables disconnected.
When I reconnected power the MP began a familiar 17 second cycle, both sets of Memory Riser Card Diagnostic LEDs illuminate for about 3 seconds, fans start, shutdown (repeat).
Pressing down the SMC RST button stops this loop, but still cannot startup.
Yesterday I pulled the top memory riser, left MP off for 30 minutes then when I reconnected power I could startup successfully. Shutdown, reinsert top rise, restart success.
I called Apple support, authorized a case. The tech went off to consult for 10 minutes or so, then came back and said "we think your power supply is probably stuffed".
To obtain a replacement supply here in Hobart is going to be difficult and expensive. So any advice on how to improve our assessment of the true source of this problem would be much appreciated.
The famous and helpful "Hatter" once suggested to another troubled Mac Pro owner to "leave the computer disconnected from power overnight". My experience is that the longer time disconnected is related to success, but I do not understand why. Why is overnight helpful?
PS - I've not done the following procedure yet, and because it is from the 2008 Mac Pro service manual it may not apply to the 2006 exactly as written. I'm including this info for the benefit of searchers who come along in the future:
Power Supply Verification
To power on, the computer’s logic board requires “trickle” power. If the system fails to power on, first reset the SMC as described in this chapter. If the computer still doesn’t power on, follow the procedure outlined below to determine whether the issue is related to the power supply.
Verify trickle power
Diagnostic LED 2 indicates the presence of trickle power required by the logic board to begin the startup process.
LED 2 should be yellow when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that trickle voltage is present.
Verify Power Supply Is Providing Power
Diagnostic LED 8 indicates that the main power is OK and within regulation. Plug in AC power cord, and press the power-on button on the front panel.
LED 8 should be green when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that the main power is OK and within regulation.
If diagnostic LED 5 and LED 6 are both solidly illuminated at power up, improperly seated power supply cables could be one cause of this behavior. Check all power supply cable connections to ensure they are properly seated.
PSS - I have recently replaced the PRAM battery.

Are you getting a chime?
The chime says the computer passed the first part of the Power-On Self-Test, and if enough working RAM and a boot drive can be found, booting is likely. Lack of a chime says something else is amiss.
The usual procedure in cases of no chime is to pretend that something is loading down the power supply. So you remove all the drives and the graphics card and everything except a minimum of RAM, and look for the chime. If you get to the chime, then you add back the graphics card so you can see what is happening, and boot to the Installer DVD. then bring back an item at a time and see when it craps out.

An ATX P4 power supply and a MSI-6119 motherboard. Does it work?

I am reparing my computer. (Power supply broke down)
I found a cheap ATX 350W P4 power supply.
It is intended for P4 motherboards, and has the same connectors as my old PSU, except one more: the ATX 12V connector (4 pin , 2 yellow 12V and 2 black earth), that you normally have to plug in a 4 PIN connector called JPW1.
On a PII/III board such as the MSI-6119, there is no JPW1.
Apparently the PSU doesn't start up if the ATX12V connector iis not plugged in.
How can I make it work?

Thanks for the manual.
No beep when booting without RAM. No sound at all. power supply does not start.
I did the following:
1. Disconnect PSU from everything - do not plug ATX connector, but short circuit pin 14 (green) and 15 (black) of the 20 pin ATX connector - put in external power cable. The PSU starts humming.
Apparently, when pin 14C is pulled low, the ATX PSU jumpstarts. ( see http://www.duxcw.com/faq/ps/ps4.htm ).
2. disconnect all drives ( HDD, CD, FDD ) (power supply and ATA66 cable) - plug 20 pin ATX connector in motherboard - connect power cable - no boot;
CONCLUSION 1: Pin 14 is not pulled low by the circuits of the motherboard, which it should. why?
3. connect all drives ( HDD, CD, FDD ) with power supply cables to PSU and ATA66 cable to motherboard.
PSU not connected to motherbord
short circuit green and 15 of the 20 pin ATX connector.
Power supply starts, HDD and CD however not ( FDD starts ).
CONCLUSION 2: connection of ATA66 cable disables power supply to HDD and CD/RW
4. connect only power supply cables to HDD/CD /FDD and not the ATA66 cables.
No connection of PSU with mothetboard
short circuit green and black of the ATX connector. ( So Motherboard not implicated )
- Power supply starts, HDD / CD and FDD start also.
CONCLUSION 3: my HDD etc and internal power cables are OK.
And I am no step further.

Trouble replacing the power supply for a 20" imac g5

I have purchased a new power supply and going through the replacement instructions but I cannot get the cable to disconnect. In the instructions it says
4. Disconnect the power supply cable by pressing the connector release tab and using a
wide, flat blade screwdriver to pry apart the connector.
5. With your fingers, pry the cable off the connector.
But the parts simply will not come apart and the plastic is just getting all mangled and making it more difficult. Is there some sort of trick to this?

Don't keep forcing anything or you'll end up having to replace those cables/connectors.
This is what I might try, however, I have to say I have never had to do this and maybe someone who has will have a better idea: You might try dribbling an extremely tiny amount of silicone spray downwards into the connector. Don't allow it to get on the outside of the connector where you need to grip it. And don't spray the silicone directly; first accumulate a little in a small container (one of those small cough syrup measuring cups would do), then try to get some on something that will hold only one or two drops and feed it in from there. I don't think it will reduce the conductivity of the contacts, but try to keep it only on the plastic, if possible. Shake the can of silicone spray well before using.
You might also try using a small piece of a non-slide rubber mesh pad, the kind used under rugs, to help grip the connector better. And jiggle it a little from side to side while pulling it out.

Power supply cables

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