Power Supply Components missing
Hi
I am a first year Electronic engineering student and I would for obvious reasons like to get to know and use Multisim.
So i decided to build a power supply on it to test with different loads and gadgets attached to it.At first it looked quite easy until
I realized that there's some components that I cant find on the database and would have to make myself.Im not that PRO yet and I only have 6 days left on the trial.
Could someone please help me out? Just point out the Equivalent Components on the NI database
Here is the Power Supply I want to build and simulate on Multsim.
http://www.rason.org/Projects/powsupply/powsupply.htm
I had trouble finding a Voltage Regulator and Some of the Transistors aswell.
Thanks and Regards
Cart
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Hello,
If you cannot find a component in Multisim you can always create it using the Component Wizard (Tools menu), here is a basic tutorial:
Component Creation 101
In order to create a simulatable component you need a SPICE model. SPICE models are created by the manufacturers therefore, visit the manufacturer's website to see if they have the model you need, you can also use a search engine.
For your reference I am attaching a Multisim file with the LM723. You can save it to yourUser Database, just right-click the component and select Save Component to DB.
I hope this helps, welcome to Multism!
Regards,
Fernando D.
National Instruments
Attachments:
Multisim file.zip 23 KB
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I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMDQuote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough. -
Choosing the Right Power Supply
First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs -
Power consumption with dual power supply
Hi,
I need to know how dual power supply works, I mean, when you have two power supplies in a router if both of them are working at the same time, or if one of them is working while the other one only begin to work when the first one stops.
And if both of them are working at the same time, what is the power consumption, the same as if only one of them was working?
Thanksmarianares0001 wrote:Hi,I need to know how dual power supply works, I mean, when you have two power supplies in a router if both of them are working at the same time, or if one of them is working while the other one only begin to work when the first one stops.And if both of them are working at the same time, what is the power consumption, the same as if only one of them was working?Thanks
The implementation details can potentially differ per product category but usually the following is applicable:
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I'll discuss my research into each possibility in order:
(1) I've found a small number of sites selling replacement power supplies for the QuickSilver G4 systems (shipping not factored into the prices I'm listing):
(a) $174.00 from DV Warehouse (http://www.dvwarehouse.com/Power-Supply-344-W-PM-G4-Quick-Silver(733-800-867-933-1ghz/Dual)-p-20361.html)
(b) $179.99 from Mac-Resource (http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART)
(c) $219.95 from WeLoveMacs (http://www.welovemacs.com/posu344wapog.html)
(d) At the time I searched, I didn't see anyone selling the same model power supply on eBay.
If I choose to purchase a replacement, I'll most likely go with the cheapest vendor since it's listing the part as new.
(2) I'm not confident enough to attempt a fan replacement, and since the power supply fan has been dead for an unknown length of time, I'm not entirely confident it hasn't been damaged from excessive heat. If anyone has a link or useful document that explains how to replace the power supply fan safely, I'd be open to the option. Right now, the most information I currently have is the physical specifications of the original fan (correct me if I'm wrong!):
Protechnic 80x80x25mm MAGIC (made by Sechang Micro)
12 Volt, 0.24 Amp
38.27 CFM, 3000 RPM (max), 29 dBA
P/N: MGA8012HS
I would probably want a better alternative if I went this route, since I didn't expect the fan to die quite this soon (although I generally run my system 24/x7).
(3) I found this other post where another G4 QuickSilver user had the same problem: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2198292
That thread has a link to the following site with recommendation for purchasing power supplies:
http://www.Performance-PCs.com/
However, I've limited experience with voltage requirements and I don't know anything about the physical connector or dimensions of the power supply itself. At best, I know the model of my power supply is 614-0157 and can max out at 344 W.
If anyone has input and suggestions to help me fully explore my options, I'd really appreciate it. Otherwise I'll land on safe ground by buying an entire replacement of the same model, swap it out, and be done with it.
Power Mac G4 QuickSilver (M8360LL/A) Mac OS X (10.3.9) 2 GHz Processor Upgrade (Giga Designs), 1.5 GB RAM, 5 Internal HDDsI decided to purchase a replacement power supply from DV Warehouse, since it was the cheapest vendor I could find selling the part as new.
When time permits, I intend to open the original power supply cover to see how challenging it would be to replace the fan. When I do, I'll add more about it to this thread.
One thing I'm noticing with this power supply fan while it's still in use with my system: If I push on a fan blade with a plastic stick while the system is powered up, I'll see the fan revolve a little (very slowly) before stopping. Not sure if that can be a useful clue as to which component within the power supply could have failed.
PB PM - About your earlier comment to blowing A/C air against the back of the case being more of a hinderance than helpful, is that true even when the component has no assisted airflow at all? In other words, my logic in using a floor fan to force colder air into the power supply is to help cool the components within it since there is otherwise only natural airflow to help keep the PS from overheating.
Thanks! -
Imac G5, Can I use a power supply from a G4 Q-silver (rewired connector)?
I've got a G5 Imac with a blown PS, and I'm thinking of modifying a G4 Quicksilver power supply for use as the power source for a 20" Imac G5. Yeah, I know it sounds a bit weird, but hey, I was given this Imac G5 (1st Gen. 1.8GHz) for free. It's missing the back cover, and the PS is shot. So if I blow it up it no major loss. It's a project!
I have determined that the original PS is shot and needs to be replaced. I don't really want to drop $140 for a replacement PS, as I would also have purchase the back cover for another $40 + shipping. Go figure, right? It appears that most of those power suppies tend to fail early, anyway.
During my checks of the Imac internals, I also noted that during the "power on" tests, using the old power supply, I would get the second indicator light on the motherboard to flash for just a moment. According to Apple, this indicates that the motherboard is probably good, and that the power supply is bad as it's only providing a momentary voltage spike during the start up faze, before the power drains from the PS. Then it quits. So I thought, is it possible to use the QS power supply, only modifying (rewire) the main 22 pin connector voltages so they match the Imac's pinout? Both connectors are 22 pin and most of the pinout voltages match up the same. There would appear to be only two major connectors that would need to be rewired. So can I use a modified QS power supply to power my Imac?
A couple of extra notes about this Imac:
1) There is no back or stand with this Imac, it just the main guts. So I would need to build a suitable enclosure to maintain proper air flow, and use the QS power supply outside the Imac. That wouldn't appear to be a big problem.
2) My biggest concern is this. The QS power supply uses 28v for the start circuits, versus 24v for the G5 Imac PS. Would this make a significant difference, and if so, why? I'm assuming it will, but it an area I'm unsure of with the Imac. Any thoughts or experiance in this area here would be greatly appreciated.
3) Hey, if worse comes to worse, I can always purchase the extra parts and rebuild the Imac for around $200-$300 US, and it would still be a deal (at least I think so). However, at present this is just a pet project, and if it goes south (doesn't work), it's not like I'm out some major $$$$.
Thanks in advance!I have no idea whether your ideas would work, but go to xlr8yourmac.com for some ideas. If you decide to purchase parts, try [http://www.synaptech.com/catalog> and also look at [http://www.jimwarholic.com/2008/07/how-to-repair-apple-imac-g5.php] for tips.
Let us know what you end up doing, -
Help : Simple Power Supply Filter
First , thanks to everyone who answered my question on "time step too small".
I am in the filter stage of a very simple power supply. However, when I connect a capacitor to the output of my rectified signal, the output signal of the load is not what I expect to see.
I expect it to be fairly constant, and located at the peak of the input voltage.
Any help will be deeply appreciated.
I have attached the circuit to it.
Thank you.
Attachments:
Bridge Rectifier.ms9 945 KBO.K. Here's a picture of your circuit with the PI Filter attached to it. I just arbitrarily selected the components to use. I used low value caps so you can still see a slight ripple on it. A larger capacitor at the end of the bridge will filter this ripple almost completely out. Most circuits I have seen usually have this cap set somewhere in the 100uF-300uF range and the output capcitor in the range of 10uf-50uf range.
I can't remember the formylas for designing a PI Filter, but I am sure if you search the internet there are resources that can help you with that. I think I may refreshen my memeory on this subject as well.
Here's the picture and I hope this works for you.
Kittmaster's Component Database
http://ni.kittmaster.com
Have a Nice Day
Attachments:
Bridge Rectifier PI Filter.JPG 147 KB -
I keep getting an alarm on my xserve telling me power supply has failed
Raid admin shows an event that power supply 2 has failed and the audible alarm goes off on the server but the the components section in raid admin shows all ok.
also the power supplys both seem to be running ok when I look at them visually.
is this a bug or should I replace the power supply?
RTCan you clarify what Mac and Mac OS you really have? Facetime was introduced in 2010, four years after PowerMacs were discontinued. And "iOS" is not an computer OS.
Doing "About this Mac" will show your processor type and OSX version. That should help us figure out if you need to be moved to a different forum. -
Can I put a new graphics card and power supply in my computer.
Hey all, I have the P7-1459 comp and it is good, but i was hoping to maybe give it a gaming boost. But i havent been able to find out if it could handle what i want to do. The new Graphics card would require a 450W power supply and i dont know if this comp could handle it. Anyone know one way or another? Need some help.
This question was solved.
View Solution.Joshua, you are very welcome!
I am sorry that I misunderstood your question. I thought that you wanted to know if the computer would handle the card.
Yes, you can upgrade the power supply unit (PSU). I suggest measuring the existing PSU and comparing those measurements to the one that you choose. I like OCZ and Corsair. They will provide enthusiast quality with a reasonable price. A good video card requires clean, stable power. I recommend at least 500W; 550W to 600W would be even better. This would allow for some future upgrades. The computer only uses the amount of power needed to run the components.
I hope this helps.
Please click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
++++++++++++++++++
**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
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