Power switch problem in 300MHz wallstreet

The power switch moves around under the hole in the clutch cover, making it hard to turn the machine on. Does anyone know if it can be reattached? If not what part should I buy?

Hardy Geer,
I have a wallstreet and the power switch is indeed different than the pismo. However, if you want to look at it you can easily remove the keyboard and just pry it off at each end. I looked at the iFixit site for the dismantle instructions for the hinge cover. They recommend that you remove everything including the processor daughter card and the modem but I can't see why you would need to do that. I think they just took a full dismantle and chopped it at the hinge cover. So you should be able to just pop loose the keyboard with the expansion bay releases, maybe you'll have to remove the heat shield, then pry off the hinge cover and take a look. The hinge cover WITHOUT buttons is about $6 on ebay. I didn't see one with buttons.
Hope this helps.
john

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Power switch problem

Hi all,
I have a strange problem with the power switch, I means the switch on back of the Power Supply, not on the front panel. Just switch on the power supply, all fans in the case will immediately running! The system remain un-booted. Then if I press the power button, the system will boot normally.
My understanding is, when I switch the power supply, the whole system will do nothing, ONLY after the power on button, boot will start, fan will spin. Do you have the same problem? How to solve it?

I can't believe this would suddenly start happening, but this is a copy and paste (in italic) from another thread on this forum.
False Start For Me As Well !!!
Hello,
I've just bought and tried 3 different Antec Neopower power supplies on my MSI Neo2 Platinum motherboard (AMD Nforce3, socket 939) and I still experience the same problem :
Everytime I switch on my computer I hear the fans working, the disks starting but the power led remains off and if I do nothing the screen remains black. I have to hit the power button one more time in order to startup my computer. I do not have this problem when I restart the computer from windows. Moreover I could see that when I unplug the power connectors of my 2 raptors I do not have the problem, the system is starting the first time I switch it on (I tried different cables of course). I also removed the power supply from the case but it's still the same.
Precision : I NEVER had this kind of problem with my former Tagan 480W.
As I already tried with 3 different Neopower power supplies I now ask you for help. Please
Now that looks like a power issue.

K7N2 delta power switch problem

I'm a first time poster, and a first time PC builder. I recently bought all the components listed in my signature from newegg. I was careful installing everything, but when I attempted to power it up, there was no response, nothing at all. No fans, no diag LEDs, nothing. The only response at all came after I shut off the switch on the back of the power supply. About 5 seconds after removing power, there is always a quick high-pitched descending chirp that lasts about half a second.
I verified that the outlet and cable were good. PS is set on 115V, and the rear switch was on. Pressing the front button simply didn't do anything. I confirmed the power supply is good - to test I disconnected the power supply from the mobo, but left the hard drive and fans connected and shorted the green lead on the power connector to ground. Everything spun up.
I reconnected the power supply to the mobo, which was isolated outside of the case, and removed all components but the processor, heatsink/fan, and RAM. I adjusted the thermal sensor under the processor to ensure contact, and added a little extra thermal grease. Again, no response when the power button was triggered, either with the button itself, or by shorting the power switch leads on JFP1 with a screw driver. The PSU wasn't putting out anything.
Finally, I tried the same setup again, this time shorting the green lead on the mobo power connector (JWR1) to ground with a paper clip from above while the power connector was attached to the motherboard. All fans spun up, and I got diagnostic LEDs - Red, Red, Green, Green.
Is this indicative of a faulty power switch connector on JFP1?
Any help would be appreciated...

Hi Richard,
I have connected the power switch to the motherboard, to pins 6 and 8 on the JFP1 connector. There is no response when the button is pressed. If I remove the power switch leads and short the pins with a screwdriver, there's no response. When I short the green lead on the motherboard power connector (JWR1) to ground, however, the system boots normally, with no other changes to the hardware.
Seems to me that the JFP1 connector isn't functioning. I'm just curious whether this is a reasonable conclusion, or if there could be something else blocking the power signal.
Thanks
jack

Power switch problems (computer will not start)?

When I woke up this morning my (new) computer refused to start, it worked fine yesterday. Since the LED on the PSU was on I figured that it was something wrong with the power button. I switched places of the reset and power button on the mobo and the computer booted fine one (1) time, but wouldn't start the second time i tried.
Any idea of what could be wrong?
Computer:
Mobo:
MSI P965 Platinum
CPU:
Intel Core 2 Duo 2,13GHz
Memory:
Corsair TWIN2X, 6400 DDR2, 2048MB
HDD:
Samsung SpinPoint SP2504C 250GB
GPU:
Sapphire Radeon X1950PRO 256MB GDDR3
Chassis:
Cooler Master Mystique 631
PSU:
Hiper Type-R 530W

Check all power connections from PSU to Mainboard and components.
-JPWR1 (24pin)
-JPWR2 (8pin)
-JPWR3 (4pin)
Check power connection your X1950PRO (6pin)
If that doesn't help, clear CMOS and try again.

Creative Zen Micro 6GB/Problems with Power Switch and Firmw

The power switch on my Zen Micro has died. I can't turn it on or off unless I 'jump start' it from a USB cable and leave it alone to go into idle shutdown. I've had this player just three weeks and this is happened and frankly I'm disgusted. But wait, my story get's worse:
So before sending it back to Creative I thought that I should at least exhaust every possible cure. First on my list? A Firmware upgrade to v2.22.05. I downloaded the program and set about installing the new firmware but halfway through the process it hung and I had to end it prematurely. Now what I had was a ZM that apparently had v2.22.05 but was not being recognised at all by my computer. Media Explorer wasn't picking up on it and neither was WMP although strangely when I connect the device it's there in the Device Manager...
So, check back with the website and it said to download an update for Mediasource and that should solve the problem. Downloaded the patch but then realised that I hadn't installed Mediasource on my computer (can't remember why I didn't though). Went back to the downloads page and downloaded Mediasource. Tried to install it but I can't. The reason? because my computer isn't detecting the ZM and I can't install it until it recognises that it's there.
As a last resort I thought that I would try to use 'Rescue Mode'. Seemed simple enough, remove the battery and hold down the power switch. Then put the battery back in and wait for the rescue screen to come up. Seems easy enough. Oh wait, I don't have a working power switch.
What I do have though, is a small piece of plastic and metal that I can't turn on, can't turn off, can't put any songs on, can't listen to, can't fix and can't be bothered with. I have a ?60 paperweight.
Anyone at all have any idea what I should do? I just want to put it all in a box and send it back to Amazon with a request for a full refund or a threat to take them to the Small Claims Court.

Although a failed power switch is not unknown, I only recall seeing two or three other cases of this. It's not common.
If WMP isn't working with the device having v2 firmware something is wrong. Unfortunately this can be difficult to fix, but take a look here in the Zen FAQ at Nomadness.net.
MediaSource won't detect the player if there's some issue e.g. WMP0 not detecting it. You can of course also try installing Zen Micro Media Explorer (Creative Zen Micro Media Explorer Web Update to be specific) which has MTP support.
Are you are presumably under guarantee, and as you bought from an Internet store, it's best to return it direct to Creative. Contact Creative Support to arrange this.

HI .. I have a new macmini 2.5 Ghz 10.7.3 Lion, had a problem today ,it froze so I could not shut down using mouse or tablet. used the power switch, when I tried to restart I got audible 'beeps' from it.

HI ....I have a new macmini 2.5 Ghz 10.7.3 Lion, had a problem today ,it froze so I could not shut down using mouse or tablet pen. used the power switch, when I tried to restart I got audible 'beeps' from it. I managed to restart it but kept getting a message come up on one ot the dual screens ' restart using the power swich to turn it off , then press it again to restart.'
This worked okay , but now it just keeps freezing whenever I start it up. I thought the issue could be my old Epson Expression 1680 scanner not being compatible , so I have unplugged it. I also had a look at the new memory I installed when I got it, but this seems not be the problem.
It is connected up to an Eizo Flexscan S2231W using a cable straight into the HDMI input , the other monitor is a small Acer using the VGA into Thunderbolt port.
When I turn the Eizo screen on first and then press the power button on the mac-mini, I hear the chime then the screen flahes the 'Digital no signal' message on and off for about 30 seconds , then the monitor comes on as normal. But it is still freezing up on me after using it for a while and I am having to use the power switch button to turn it off again.
Can anyone help please.

I really don't have an answer for that one. I guess that while trying to get things working correctly, I would use the most basic monitor I had which in your case would be the Eizon using the Thunderbolt port and adaptor.
When you boot into Safe Mode the startup is quite slow, but you should get the Apple logo and then the spinning gear below it (release the SHIFT key when it appears.) Then after a little more time you should see a gray progress bar appear below the spinning gear. When that disappears the computer will startup to a login screen.

Power Redundancy problem for cisco 3750 stack switches

Hi Team,
I have installed and configured cisco 3750X series switches in stackwise. Those are having dual power supply.
Power redundancy test performed:
1. Removed one of the power supply and inserted it back.
2. once the first power supply is ready, removed another power supply and switch got rebooted.
please find the below stack-power output:
JP2-RDC-DIS-02#sh stack-power detail
Power Stack           Stack   Stack    Total   Rsvd    Alloc   Unused Num Num
Name                  Mode    Topolgy Pwr(W) Pwr(W) Pwr(W) Pwr(W) SW   PS
Powerstack-2          SP-PS   Stndaln 700     477     223     0       1    2
Powerstack-1          SP-PS   Stndaln 700     477     223     0       1    2
Power stack name: Powerstack-2
    Stack mode: Power sharing
    Stack topology: Standalone
    Switch 2:
        Power budget: 223
        Power allocated: 223
        Low port priority value: 22
        High port priority value: 13
        Switch priority value: 4
        Port 1 status: Not connected
        Port 2 status: Not connected
        Neighbor on port 1: 0000.0000.0000
        Neighbor on port 2: 0000.0000.0000
Power stack name: Powerstack-1
    Stack mode: Power sharing
    Stack topology: Standalone
    Switch 1:
        Power budget: 223
        Power allocated: 223
        Low port priority value: 22
        High port priority value: 13
        Switch priority value: 4
        Port 1 status: Not connected
        Port 2 status: Not connected
        Neighbor on port 1: 0000.0000.0000
        Neighbor on port 2: 0000.0000.0000
Can anyone help what went wrong here?
Thanks
Manish

Cosmetic bug
CSCui21029    3750X Stack no standalone stays in running configureation as standalone
Symptom:
When you are configuring a 3750x stack and initially putting it into a stack ring topology by configuring the following.
Switch(config)#stack-power switch 1
Switch(config-switch-stackpower)#sta
Switch(config-switch-stackpower)#no stan
Switch(config-switch-stackpower)#no standalone
You will see that in the running configuration it shows up as standalone mode
stack-power switch 1
switch mode: standalone
stack-power switch 2
switch mode: standalone
Conditions:
3750X stacks with any license level
Workaround:
none

HP Mini Netbook Power Switch

My sister is not able to power on her HP Mini 1010NR netbook. I was looking at the HP Mini 1000 Mainteance ans Service guild and could not find a part number for the replacement switch. Is there a parts manual and breakdown on this hardware area? The netbook is out of warrenty, but I would like to fix the issue with a replacement power switch.
Thanks for any help!
Update:
I found part #506336-001 to be a "on/off switch and USB card" through a google search, but the service manual only states it to be a USB board. Can anyone verifiy that tis is the correct part number?

I happen to own one of those.
There is no internal power unit, per se. Notebooks and netbooks have power circuitry that distribute and rectify power to various parts of the system board.
The greates likelihood is that your power adapter is faulty. Does the power led light up when it is plugged into the netbook?
Troubleshoot power/battery.
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

Lacie D2 HD crashes iMac upon turning Lacie power switch off

I have a newish Lacie D2 external 1T hard drive (thunderbolt and USB 3 ports) attached via the thunderbolt port to my newest iMac.
All was working just fine until last month when, after ejecting the Lacie and then turning its power off at the Lacie power switch I noticed that my iMac (OS X 10.10.2) screen immediately went black and the iMac began its restart routine. I have tried both thunderbolt ports and the Lacie crashes the iMac consistently. The USB 3 port works just fine and does not crash the iMac.
I have run Disk Utility and it reports no problems. The files on the Lacie are fine and I can copy files to and from the Lacie as usual.
Suggestions???
Thanks in advance,
Bill..

Thankyou for the helpful and considered reply. Your suggestion that the Lacie drive circuitry has been damaged is the conclusion I'm coming to as well.
I have subsequent to this post tried a second Lacie external HD that uses the thunderbolt ports and experienced no problems upon powering of the external HD. This suggests that the crashing problem is localised to the problem Lacie drive. I was concerned that one or both of the iMac's thunderbolt ports may have been damaged.
As you suggest, I may have to purchase another external drive and copy all the contents from the failing Lacie before consigning it to the trash pack. For the moment I have implemented a very high tech solution: a piece of masking tape over the Lacie's thunderbolt port !!
Thankyou
Bill..

WEIRD Neo2 Power-on problem (no, not the same old thing)

First post, go easy on me:
My new Neo2 has what seems (at first glance) to be one of the most common problems I've read about here and on other forums: After windows shutdown, the machine will not power on at all using the front power switch. To get power, I have to clear the CMOS, and then the machine comes on and boots perfectly as soon as power is applied (without pressing front power button). I've tried the 4xHt setting as suggested here and elsewhere, no joy. I have not updated my BIOS from 1.4 stock yet, but will be soon due to voltage needs(prolly to 1.37mod).
Anyway, in researching this problem, I've come across something strange that may be helpful to others. When checking my front panel connections on the MB, I noticed that there is only one "Power switch" connector on the MB. I'm referring to the 2 prongs that the power switch lead connects to.....I only have one prong. the positive prong seems to be missing (the one with the white "+" at the base). This isn't normal is it? The machine is rock solid, even OC'd,other than this one issue.
Having said all that, I have 2 main questions.
1. Would this missing prong produce the symptom I'm having? After all, the power switch seems to just not work at all. If it weren't for the little "glitch" with some Neo2's where the machine comes on when power is applied, I dont think I would ever have gotten this thing to power up. Ironic huh?
2. Assuming question 1 is a yes, can I fix this? I refuse to RMA this board, as it's overclocking very well so far, and judging by the low voltages used so far, I'm not even close to maxing it out yet.
Any help or insight appreciated. Thanks.
P.S it may be worth mentioning that others with similar problems might want to verify the integrity of both prongs with a voltmeter.

It certainly is not normal for one of the two power pins to be missing from the MB. However, all that connector does is to allow the front panel button to start (and stop) sending operating power to the MB. It has no affect on performace of the MB if you power it on some other way (i.e, by clearing CMOS). I would guess that MSI purposely allowed the fans to come on when starting up the system for the first time (or after CMOS clearing) to let the user know what that the MB is not "dead". I assume you are not able to power the system off with the front panel power swich or restart it after you shut down Windows. Neither of these should work if the power switch connector is not correctly connected.
As mentioned above, it is a rather simple job to have a qualified technician replace the pin, assuming the connection below the pin is in good shape. But I would only trust a compter technician to do the job, and then only after he tells me that he has done it before. Otherwise, I think your only option is to RMA the board.
Good luck.

Hi, I'm having a macbook pro here and it spoiled after a year of using, i though it was the power adapter problem because when i try to charge my mac battery that is depleted it shows a very dim light and my mac won't start up

Hi, I'm a macbook pro user but recently my macbook just spoiled, i though was my power adapter problem because when i charge my mac battery that is depleted, it shows a very dim light and my mac just won't start up, even i bought a brand new 80 euro power adapter it still give out the same result.

when I switch it on, the little led light it up and u can hear the fun running and after 5 to 10 seconds switched off again / ive got all my recordings in there
Try Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
If that doesn't help, try Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
in really disappointed with apple,
Serge... you are aware that you are responsible for backing up your importanta data correct ?

Startup, "desktop" screen is stuck in a loop, no keys work, must "power" switch down.

Upon power up, all normal until the loading of the "desktop" screen. It does not finish loading, All icons and their text ids load, but the "icon" pictures do not finish loading. The computer then goes into a reload of that screen, rather rapid loop, no escape from loop. No keys work, mouse does not work, touch pad does not work. Must use power switch to shut down. Norton 360 security, current, no problems reported. Backup thumb drive startup also fails. Thank you for any ideas....

I took computer to our local gurus. How he managed to gain contol I didn't ask. He removed Norton 360, and all went well afterwards. When I got home with computer, I began to reinstall "Norton 360" and received the following message that "Norton 360 is not compatible with your computer..." Well, it had worked for 1-1/2 years flawlessly, but what the heck.....? I scrapped the "360" plan, paid for "Norton Security", installed that new-to-me program with no errors. Up and running with no problems, and as the new "Norton Security" was able to access "my vault", I have all my passwords, etc. to various URLs. That I might have lost all of them was a horrible thought, even tho' I have them off site. In summary, the "Norton 360" brand new incompatiblilty with Windows 8.1 and my HP ENVY shut me down this a.m. Best of luck to you with your computer...

Power switch design needs a rethink

Making the main power switch a key on the keyboard was really a terrible idea. I hit it by accident at least a few times daily. Is there any workaround for this? For example is there a way to reassign the on/off function to <fn> on/off so you have to hold down two keys at once? I really really wish apple would go back to the recessed metal button I had on my previous macbook pro. I never had this problem before. Progress, I guess? I suppose it's one of many chanes that led to the ultrathin design.

We are just fellow users like you. If you want Apple to see your suggestion:
Where to send product feedback to Apple:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/

Imac power switch

Just purchased a new iMac yesterday. Has anyone had problems when pressing the power switch and you hear the chime, screen flashes, then goes black?
It seems to only happen when I had it unplugged. After a few tries it powers up to the desktop.

Hello TM:
The chime (one) is normal. That indicates the Mac has successfully performed a start up self-test. The screen flash and the black screen is definitely not normal. I would contact Apple at once (store or Applecare) and request a replacement under warranty.
Barry

Power switch on the back of shuffle

Has anyone had problems with the shuffle power switch? Only days after I got it, the switch became much to easy to slide and eventually wouldn't turn the unit on? I've looked at this board and I can't find this problem anywhere. Was I just unlucky?

most likey, yes, go do a chat with a apple person

Power switch problem in 300MHz wallstreet

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