PowerBook G4 PRAM battery

A friend donated his retired 17" 1Ghz PowerBook G4 to my collection of older Macs. It worked when he took it out of service but it's been stored off power for several months. Does the PowerBook PRAM battery recharge like the ones in the original G3 Powerbooks or does it run down and die like the 3.6V 1/2AA PRAM batteries in desktop Macs? I've noticed they are quite expensive and not the easiest item to replace.
I can't do any testing at the moment because he forgot to send the power adaptor and the main battery is DOA. Fortunately, he will post the adaptor tomorrow.
Thanks in advance,
Allan

Thanks, BGreg.
This is my fist PowerBook. Other than not keeping date and time, are there any specific problems associated with a dead PRAM battery in this model. I know it can wreak havoc in a Beige G3 and some of the pre-G3 models. I've replaced PRAM batteries in Wallstreets before and that helps with several problems, but the Wallstreet is Old World ROM.
If I have a good main battery, have the computer plugged into wall power most of the time and is connected to our always-on home network, can I except reasonably normal function should the PRAM battery be truly shot?
AJ

Similar Messages

Does a 12" PowerBook have a PRAM battery on the logic board?

We got an 867MHz 12" Aluminum PowerBook in today that doesn't seem to want to hold PRAM values any longer than 5 minutes. It doesn't seem to matter if it's plugged in and using the AC adapter as the source or the battery (as long as it's charged, of course ).
I've gone through the typical battery of tests, like removing the Airport, add-on RAM, etc. but the problems persist. To get the item to boot, I've been repeatedly resetting the PMU (shift-option-command + power button) followed by a PRAM reset (option-command-P-R + power button) and eventually it will chime and start to boot. I suspect that I can end up isolating this to a specific set of steps. One of the oddities I've noticed is that when doing this, the power isn't actually off. For example, if I do the PRAM reset, the item will appear to be dead, but if I hit the caps lock key it's clear that the power is still on.
Once the item boots, I can power it on and off, and it will reboot, as long as I don't let it sit any more than 5 minutes. If I let it sit 5 minutes or more, then I need to go through this whole reset game again.
I've seen stuff like this happen on PCs that often have ROM/PROM batteries installed (sometimes removable, sometimes soldered to the board) that retain system settings. There seems to be something that looks like one of these batteries installed on this motherboard, but none of Apple's tech repair manuals reference replacing it, and it almost looks like its welded to a connector, but then again I'm not sure it's even a battery.
So the question is: Does this motherboard have a PRAM battery on it that's failing? If there is one, is there a replacement or replacement kit available, or am I barking up the wrong tree all together?
Thanks in advance.

From what I can tell, this device uses a "mega capacitor" to maintain the charge on the memory. It looks almost like a battery that I put into one of my old cameras. This capacitor sits between the trackpad and the optical drive. The owner of this system did a DVD upgrade himself and it appears in the process he actually knocked this capacitor off it's base on the mother board. It superficially APPEARS to be connected because there's a bar on the top end of the capacitor soldered to the motherboard that's holding it in place, but the bottom end broke off the motherboard.
The boss of our company theorizes as follows:
1. The PRAM and NVRAM has a high impedance, and when the mega capacitor is properly connected and without power, the discharge rate based on the RC time constant is very long (probably weeks...maybe months).
2. When power is turned off it's the duty of this effective RC network to maintain PRAM and NVRAM since the discharge rate is so slow.
3. With this capacitor busted off, the only capacitance that exists in the circuit is likely that of RF bypass capacitors and any other capacitors that may be used to filter out the supply. Since these are likely much, much lower in value the RC time constant becomes minutes instead of days/weeks/months.
I think this is a good theory for the following reasons:
1. If the unit sits, powered off, for any amount of time greater than 3-4 minutes and it's powered up, the unit comes on, but the CPU doesn't start processing. The optical media initializes, the caps lock key will light, and if you listen closely to the unit you can hear stuff running....but the CPU doesn't start. The conjecture is that the all PRAM/NVRAM parameters have been lost and when the CPU starts it sees nothing there and hence, does nothing. The unit is actually running, it just doesn't do anything.
2. If the unit sits, powered off, for any amount of time greater than 3-4 minutes, the following process will allow it to start up:
a. Turn the power on and leave it on for about 2-3 minutes. This is the dysfunctional state identified above, but what seems to be happening is that the effective RC network is being charged.
b. After several minutes, turn the unit off and then immediately turn it on.
c. The unit boots successfully.
d. We can turn the unit off, and turn it on again, and it will successfully boot as long as we do it relatively quickly (within a minute or two), but if it's left off more than that then the "game" identified in steps a-c must be repeated.
To me this implies the unit relies completely on the "mega-capacitor" to retain voltage on the PRAM/NVRAM. It sort of makes sense because the equivalent impedance of a battery is low compared to that of the RAM chips and it would have the effect of limiting the RC time constant needed for the unit to retain it's PRAM/NVRAM parameters for a very long period of time. That isn't to say the battery isn't supplying anything to the unit when power is off...it may very well be, but I suspect it simply isn't doing it to this circuit.
Does this theory make sense?

PRAM battery reset or similar for PowerBook G3 400MHz Lombard

Hello,
I recently acquired a PowerBook G3 400MHz Lombard? (not pismo)- with the battery dead and it not getting any signs of life beyond a green light on the display or the caps-lock. I was wondering if there is a simple fix that might get this going, similar to removing the PRAM battery on a Pismo that has been sitting there til the batteries drained. Any help would be appreciated so I'm headed in the right direction on this.
Thanks.
-m

Hi jpl,
First let me say a big thank you for such a prompt response. I love this place because of participants like you... thanks.
You have a Powerbook G4 in your profile; if you do
not have the Powerbook G3 Series Bronze Keyboard, the
following does not apply. If you have a G4, head over
to this forum:
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=
124
Sorry for any confusion. I indeed have a G3 Lombard with the bronze keyboard (Got it in 1999). I then upgraded to the G4 about 3.5 years ago. And just last week I got me a shiny new intel iMac.
The Lombard is currently running Jaguar, but its gotten sluggish and has run out of space (original specs). I want to reinstall OS 9, but I have this current issue with starting it up.
Generally, if the powerbook does boot up, even
occasionally, you do not have a corrupted power
manager. The procedure you quote is for a powerbook
that does not start at all, even after a normal power
manager reset, and this usually occurs when a 'book
has been unused for a few months...this allows the
batteries to run flat and corrupt the power manager.
Unlike desktop computers, powerbooks can run fine
with a dead backup battery.
The computer is being used almost daily...
I would look first at other potential problems...
- Do you have a working main battery?
No.
- Once the 'book is running, does it perform
normally? Can you sleep/wake the 'book and also
perform a restart?
Once it's running it performs normally. I can sleep and wake. I CANNOT perform a restart.
- Once running, open the System Profiler >
Memory...does it report either 512K or 1MB of L2
cache?
My 'book is at home currently... I will check when I get home.
- When shut down, remove the main battery and optical
drive. With the power adapter connected, press the
reset button on the back panel to reset the power
manager, wait 5 seconds, then press the power button.
Does it •always• start normally from a cold start
when following this procedure?
I want to say no, but I will double check this as well when I get home.
Thanks again for your help!

Replace a PRAM battery in a PowerBook TI

Here's my Powerbook:
Machine Name: PowerBook G4
Machine Model: PowerBook3,2
CPU Type: PowerPC G4 (11.3)
Number Of CPUs: 1
CPU Speed: 400 MHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 1 MB
Memory: 512 MB
Bus Speed: 100 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 4.1.8f5
Serial Number: QT1251JML98
Sales Order Number: M7952LL/A
Where's the PRAM battery in this PB? I see everything here BUT the PRAM bat.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Device/PowerBookG4_TitaniumMercury
Which Guide gets me closest to the battery? Thanks

Hi Steve,
Check out the repair guide here at macsales.com.

PRAM Battery for Powerbook G4 17" 1.33 problem

I have an Aluminum Powerbook G4 17" 1.33 GHz computer and need to replace the PRAM battery. This poses a problem. Typically they sell the PRAM battery/USB board as one replacement because the two rechargeable 3.7 v coin CGL 2430 batteries are spot welded & soldered to the USB board in parallel. The replacement part is 922-6064. When I look for a replacement, all I can find are used parts which mean that the batteries have a diminished life. Panasonic stopped making those batteries in 2005 and I can't find anything comparable. Even the places that advertise new parts say they only have used in the end. Next model up, the 1.5 GHz Apple made a battery pack that can be replaced. NewerTech makes that replacement. I would like to replace the batteries on my present USB board - new ones can be soldered or a plug can be added, but I have run into these problems. Those coin batteries are not available and I know the voltage, but not the amperage of those coin batteries that were used. NewerTech can't tell me the voltage/amperage of their battery pack for the newer version Powerbooks, so I don't know if jury-rigging one of those packs would work with my version of the Powerbook. I can't find Apple's specs anywhere for the voltage/amps that should go into the PRAM/USB boards in the 1.33 model and the 1.5GHz model so that I can figure how to do this repair modification. The USB boards for both models look the same, but I don't think that they are, but what is the difference? Anyone have an idea how I can do this modification to add PRAM power to my USB board?

Actually, this is a very minor problem, if the negligible incidence of posts here about replacement PRAM batteries dying is any indication. Apparently there are very, very few users of Powerbooks (going all the way back to the G3s of 1998-2001) whose use of these machines has outlasted a second PRAM battery. I still have a working 2003 Titanium Powerbook with its original PRAM battery in place, a working 1998 Powerbook G3 with its original PRAM battery in place, and a working 1997 Powerbook 1400C with its original PRAM battery in place. I doubt that new replacements are available for any of those batteries, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy used ones if I intended to use any of those computers for several more years. I suggest you go ahead and do the same, and install the used battery yourself to keep the cost down.
Message was edited by: eww

Do these Powerbooks have a rechargeable PRAM battery?

Only reason I ask is my PB is between batteries at the moment so I've been using it without one installed. If I leave it unplugged overnight however when I switch it on in the morning it has lost its PRAM memory (the "You computer's date and time is incorrect" error pops up). However after I've used it for about an hour or so if I unplug it then plug it back in later it appears to remember the date and time. I just wondered if the PRAM battery is recharged by the AC and if I left it plugged in over night it would recharge it fully.

I left the PB with the AC plugged in for nearly 20 hours, unplugged it and forgot about it for another day (it hasn't got a battery in it still). When I just turned it on just now, the date and time had reset again. Does this mean the pram battery is a dud or does it only charge up when the PB actually has its main battery in it?

HELP: trying to find a PRAM battery

hi everyone,
My PowerBook needs a new PRAM battery but I'm having a heck of a time finding a retailer that has the exact one need for our dear 15" G4 PowerBooks. iFixit lists them but has currently does not have any in stock.
http://www.ifixit.com/Mac-Parts/PowerBook-G4-Aluminum-15%22-Model-A1138#0-PRAM+B atteries
Could you please point me in the direction of a retailer that both sells them and has them in stock?
Your help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
yours,
JimQ

Pbparts.com has 2 in stock: http://www.pbparts.com/shop.php//9227173.html

PRAM battery or no PRAM battery?

I can't seem to find a reliable answer on the Internet, even from companies that sell PRAM batteries.
I have a 15" MBP purchased in August, 2010. Model A1286, 2.66 GHz Intel Core i7, SDD, 8GB RAM.
Does it have a PRAM battery or not? If so, what's it's expected life?

OMG,
If you're talking about the PRAM battery in the Beige G3 and not the PowerBook, there are few, if any, tests that say "dead" or "alive" with certainty. The Beige is, in my experience, the most finicky computer when it comes to weak PRAM batteries. I've taken batteries out of my Beige that were starting to give start-up problems, dropped then in older Macs where they worked flawlessly for several more years.
Older Apple tech docs show using a multi-meter to test the battery while in the computer. Other people say to test it out of the computer. The later has the battery under zero load, so I question the results. Typically, the threshold low voltage level is said to be 3.1 to 3.2V. I've tested batteries reading 3.2V (in my hand--no load) that would not allow my Beige to start properly.
Management is often better than testing. If you get a used computer, replace the PRAM battery before doing anything else. Once you have a computer running, leave it on wall power at all times; this keeps the battery out of play so it's not losing charge. If you have to remove the computer from wall power for more than a few hours, remove the battery and tape it to the case.
If you do those things, the battery will not be a problem to routine operation. Even then, I avoid leaving a battery installed for more than three years.
I got my Beige in mid 1999, and it's on the third battery. The first failed prematurely because i was unplugging the computer before going on vacation or extended business trips. The second lasted longer. I replaced it in late 2004 as a routine precaution while doing some other work on the Beige.

Bad PRAM battery?

My PB G3 Pismo wouldn't respond when I pressed the power button. After unplugging, replugging, resetting the power management, etc., I decided to go in. After a little tinkering around and no results, I pulled the PRAM battery cable out of the logic board and it booted up normally. This thing spent a lot of idle time in a drawer before I decided to pull it out and get re-acquainted with it.
Does this mean I have a bad PRAM battery? If so, where's a good place to get one, along with other add-ons for this unit - such as AirPort card/RAM/Hard Drive? Thanks.

sdburns,
Storing a powerbook allows the batteries to run flat which in turn can corrupt the power manager; if normal power manager resets do not clear the problem, disconnecting the internal, rechargeable backup battery will solve the problem. Normally, this PRAM battery is just discharged; leaving it connected to the power adapter for 24 hours or longer will charge it up.
Here is an article which describes how the battery works and also how to test it:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=30580
Occasionally, a discharged/old PRAM battery will have an internal failure and will prevent the powerbook from starting. Reconnect the battery and start up; if successful, allow it to recharge, then test.

PB 5300c Pram Battery Replacement

Several months ago I picked up a PowerBook 5300c in excellent, well taken care of condition. All works well with it but the pram battery is dead.
Having it replaced would cost me more than what I paid for it. I don’t have much experience with the inside of PowerBooks, except putting Ram in my Pismo.
Does anyone have experience replacing these on your own?
Is it a major undertaking?
Does anyone know of an internet site or source of information that may be able to help me if I decide to try this?
Thanks
greg

Greg,
You want the "PowerBook1905300.pdf" take-apart manual here:
http://www.whoopis.com/computer_repair/
You can save the file to your HD with a control-click on the name and selecting the appropriate command.
You might also enjoy reading the 5300 FAQ at this site:
http://www.alksoft.com/5300_stuff.html

Computer clock resets to 1969. PRAM battery probably not the issue.

I have a PowerMac G4 mirrored doors computer running Tiger 10.4.11 that occasionally starts up with that error message saying: "Your computer's clock is set to a date before March 24th, 2001. This may cause some applications to behave erratically."
I know all about resetting the PRAM, resetting the NVRAM, and replacing a weak, or expired battery. I've read the relevant posts on the subject, in which well-intentioned guides say that the problem is "usually" or "generally" related to the PRAM battery. Well, I wish it could be that simple, because I have already had a new battery installed, and the problem continues. It is intermittent; it's been occurring for about six months now; and it persists.
I seek technical assistance and successful, problem-solving suggestions that go beyond merely suggesting that I zap the PRAM or replace the battery.
If there are potential SOFTWARE problems, please direct me to those potentially damaged files. None of the disk utilities that I have used—including Disk Warrior, TechTool Pro, OnyX, Cocktail, or Drive Genius— find anything wrong with my hard drive or the files on it. No corrupted resources are reported. Additionally, Intego's Virus Barrier finds no infected files either.
However, a FileBuddy search of files modified before 3/25/2001 finds several dozen files with improbable dates of 12/31/1969 or 1/1/1970. Fewer files dated 12/31/1969 occur after I go to the Date/Time preferences pane and reset the clock to the current date/time and then restart my computer, especially in regards to system-related files. Nonetheless, several dozen files with a 12/31/1969 still remain, even after the date/time reset and the system restart.
I do not know if any of those pre-historic files are playing a role in this chronic problem, so I offer that information for the technically more astute to ponder upon and factor in to any solutions which might be offered. I have read posts where someone might suggest a re-install of Tiger, but the original poster almost always reports that re-installing Tiger did not eliminate problem, so I would prefer suggestions that rely on a scalpel rather than a sledge hammer.
If someone suspects that there may be hardware problem, I would like to hear theories along that line, too, although I am unlikely to consider gutting the hardware items just to retain the attractive computer case. Even though I do have other computers (an iMac G5 and a MacBook Pro), the PowerMac G4 is my preferred workhorse, and it is the only one configured to run Final Cut Pro (version 4.5; I can't afford to upgrade now), so I want to keep it functional without a major investment into an older machine.
When the computer clock problem first reared its irritating head several months ago, it was accompanied with kernel crashes that turned out to be related to the nVidia video card. I brought the machine in to a local shop, because it was refusing to power on. They installed a new battery to replace the original, probably weak original battery, and they replaced the probably defective nVidia video card with a used nVidia card I found on eBay. The shop also claimed that I needed to replace the motherboard and the power supply to ensure that the G4 would power on and that it would present a desktop without the warning message about the computer clock being set to 12/31/1969.
I decided to reject their assessment, since the whole repair job would have amounted to about $1,100. It seemed like an excessive solution. Since taking the G4 back about three months ago with only the new battery and the replacement video card installed, the computer has powered on every single time without fail, which, to my non-technician mind, would appear to indicate that the power supply is OK. However, I do still get an occasional warning about the computer clock being set to a date before March 24th, 2001.
I do not have the technical expertise or repair knowledge to know if the problem is hardware-related, software-related, power supply-related, or a complex interaction between all of them. If someone can suggest a permanent fix to eliminate the computer clock error problem WITHOUT requiring me to make a major investment in repairing or replacing hardware components, that would be ideal. On the other hand, if this clock problem is merely is an irritant, but not a sign of something more serious or expensive, then I am willing to live with it and get around the problem by going through the steps of resetting the clock when required and then restarting the computer with a correctly set clock.
My main goal, of course, is to have a reliable, stable computer. If it costs too much to eliminate the computer clock irritation on a permanent basis, then I am willing to live with the problem, as long as its presence does not disrupt my work flow. In that case, I would appreciate it if someone could explain what might be going on, so that I know what to expect and what to do about it.
I hope this is sufficient information with which to make a diagnosis and recommendation. If not, ask for more. Thanks.
bowlerboy

Short answer =
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
======================================================================
Long answer =
Thanks, BDAqua, for offering your help. I'm not exactly new to these forums, but somehow my previous contributions have all been wiped out, so I've restarted under a new account name.
I've had my G4 MDD for five years, and it's always been quite stable for me, so I'm not quite sure that this model is "cantankerous." I do find the computer clock error message irritating, though, so it would be nice to know the source of the problem and its permanent solution.
Since my original posting, I elected not to Shut Down the G4 to see what would happen. It functioned just fine since then, allowing me to create some short Final Cut Pro movies as Christmas presents to family members. With one exception, all other applications also functioned without problems. The only problem I'm encountering has to do with H-P Photosmart Studio, an application bundled with the HP All-in-one model C7280. It will not settle down to work, forcing me to Force Quit it every time. Since that app works fine on my iMac G5, I decided to trouble-shoot it by reinstalling the HP software, a process that requires me to Shut Down. (If possible, I want to see if the problem is with the HP software, or with Tiger on my G4.)
However, before I can get even get to trouble-shooting the HP Photosmart, the G4 gives me that computer clock error upon re-boot. In the past, the Date & Time error message has appeared upon a cold reboot, no matter whether I had reset the Date & Time in the preference pane via the Network clock or manually. However, I never conducted my tests in conjunction with disconnecting the A/C power cable. So, I decided to try the the test you suggested. Here are my observations and the results of the test.
1) Upon Shut Down, cool down, and restart, I get the computer clock error message mentioned at the beginning of my original post, telling me that my clock is set to a earlier date.
2) When I open the Date & Time preferences pane, however, the date and time shown there (as well as on the Finder's menu bar) is current.
3) The Network setting was ON, so, to comply with this test, I unchecked the "Set date & time automatically" box. I do not need to reset date and time manually, because, as I mentioned they ARE set correctly, even though the message I got upon restart said that they are not. (If memory serves me correctly, though, the Date & Time panel would actually show 12/31/69 as the computer clock's read-out, so this discrepancy is somehow connected to this problem. )
4) I shut down the G4 for 2 hours, and I disconnected all cables and plugs to it, including A/C power.
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting.
6) I take screen captures of the error message and the menu bar: both .PNG files are time-stamped as of 12/31/1969 at around 7:01 PM.
7) I will now reset the clock to the current Date and Time by turning the Network time feature back on, so I can get on with my work while the trouble-shooting process continues.
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
If it's a software problem, then should I do I clean install of Tiger? If I do that, is there any evidence that a clean install will do any good to eradicate the problem?
On the other hand, if this is a hardware issue, is it contained to merely being an irritant that I can fix merely by adjusting the Date & Time whenever the problem occurs (which I can live with, as long as the system is stable after that fix), or is this error message regarding a sign of something more ominous failing on the motherboard?
bowlerboy

Fix & follow up on Topic: Powerbook G3 Wallstreet Battery issues

My answer was VERY simple! I too had a Wallstreet G3 that the battery suddenly stopped charging. Bought two new batteries, still the red X through the menu icon. Read forum after forum about logic boards, PRAM battery replacement (mine is dead)Battery Reset v 2.0, resetting power manager,loose contacts inside bay, copper (I think) interferring with A/C port, faulty power adapter, etc. & addressed the easy ideas putting off any inside hardware fixes.
Today decided to revisit a fix so I could break down and order whatever parts I thought I needed & put a battery in & the red X on the battery icon appeared, but then went away - so very briefly - then back to the red X. So having read today again about faulty power cords & remembering the copper touching the port problem, reached back & wiggled power cord to be sure it was pushed in OK & suddently the screen dimmed & I got the message window that I am running on reserve power & unless I plug into A/C right away the computer will shut down...words to that effect which meant that I had lost A/C power to the port just by a simple wiggle; so I pushed it a bit and held it in & the screen brightened so I knew it was back on A/C! After experimenting with pushing it in & around some more & having it dim, get the message & then come back on, when I left it on I noticed the battery icon had the lightening flash on it and the power strip showed the right bay battery was charging!! I WAS THRILLED!
Got to the root of the problem & did not spend a dime or replace any hardware! It has been an hour now (I haven't touched the power cord since)& it is still charging with the icon 1/3 filled with red and the first of the 5 blank indicators for the right bay in the power strip filled gray.
Hallelujah!

Thank YOU so very much for taking the time to tell me about the DC power inlet because I found your answer after troubleshooting whether or not I thought I needed a new power cord or had a faulty port because I discovered when applying pressure to just the power cord housing right at the point of entry being careful to not disturb the actual cord it still caused the computer to behave erratically so I think you are absolutely right.
I purchased this from e-Bay a couple of years ago and am thrilled with it (am a Mac user from its very beginning and have had several open to swap harddrives, upgrade memory, etc.) so have been researching replacing the PRAM battery since a new one came with the computer which former owner didn't put on and since I have discovered it IS a TOTAL teardown I know why, but if my husband is comfortable soldering a electronic, I'll have him follow your directions when I get to the PRAM battery.
How would I recognize what needs soldered and any tips I should know on type of solder, etc? Any online fixit photos you can point me to? I'm all set on the tear down.
Thanks again!!!

What's easier? Replacing pram battery or hard drive and dvd drive?

I have a dead imac g4 flat panel with all my files and a dvd drive. I have a working imac same year, same processor but with only a cd drive.
First, I want my files.
Then, I wouldn't mind keeping one of them as a dvd player.
Would appreciate any suggestions!
(I don't actually know if it is the battery or power supply which is dead.)

My experiences lately with my NEW (to me) 20" iMac G4.
1.25 GHZ PPC 1 GB RAM 160 GB HDD
Purchased on eBay in the orginal box for $349.00 delivered.
When the computer arrive it appeared to be in excellent shape. It turned on and operated without any problems. I really purchased as a project, and intended to restore to as NEW as possible. The iMac arrive with the usual specification for the model (born on date 3/2004). Specification were 1.25 GHZ PPC, 1GB RAM 512/slot.
So I purchased some parts to get started (like I said above everything worked).
1. OWC RAM 1GB/slot for a total of 2BG's ($55.98/Free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/2700DDRS1GBA/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/2700DDR1024/
2. OWC PRAM battery ($3.99/free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAA36VPRAM/
3. OWC LG internal Optical Drive ($45.99/free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/optical-drives/superdrives/imac/g4
4. IOGEAR Bluetooth (ver 2.1) Adapter (USB 2.0 Micro) ($13.99/free shipping)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833139019
5. Apple Wireless Magic Mouse (had a spare)
6. Apple USB Keyboard (newest) (had a spare)
Before installing the parts I cleaned out the dust and grim (nasty dirty), removed the Fan and cleaned (nasty dirty), I also removed the Thermal Grease and applied new Thermal Grease (used Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound). I used a powerful vaccum and a air compressor (120 psi), and damp Q-Tips.
On the outter shell and back of monitor I used SoftScrub/Bleach lite scrub and then rinsed with a damp cotton rag (looks brand NEW). Was sure to remove ALL of the SoftScrub.
On the screen I used iKlear and a iKlear cleaning cloth, screen is in MINT condition.
Honestly the computer looks and operates much better than I had anticipated.
I really didn't need to install a new Optical drive in the 20" but it was a cheap upgrade. And so. I have a iMac G4 17" with the same spec's as the 20" iMac so I opted to install the 20" iMac's Optical drive in the 17" iMac. The 17" would only play CD'd and not DVD's.
After putting everything back together I installed Leopard 10.5.6, then upgraded to 10.5.8. I installed Quicktime 7.7 for Leopard and iTunes 10.6.3. Installed iLife09 (no iMovie), iWorks09, Superduper (latest), and Disk Warrior 4.4,
I chose not to upgrade the HDD simple because it is working fine and I don't have any critical information stored on it.
My final upgrade would be to install a new FAN but I'll wait on that for a while. Since the Fan operates fine it does have a very, very slight whine meaning the bearings are starting to wear a bit. Probably because of the dirt and grime that was on there from before.
I would like to buy a NEW Fan to install but right now the only option is to buy a Apple Fan (part# 622-6215). I wouldn't mind a non OEM Fan but the little fins on the side of the Fan's walls are a concern for proper air flow.
http://www.welovemacs.com/9226215.html ($69.95 + $4.50 shipping).

Hard drive 6 gb/s and PRAM battery questions

I have two questions:
1) Does iMac Core Duo 20'' (early 2006 first intel model) support 6 gb/s hard drive (I recently bought a WESTERN DIGITAL Sata III 6 Gb / s buffer 64 Mb 7200 rpm)? when I will upgrade my hard drive it will recognize 6 gb/s speed data transfer? or it will recognize lesser?
2) Can I use any 3V Lithium CR2032 coin Battery as PRAM battery replacement on my iMac? I know that its 3V CR2032 from Mactracker or nay other sites from internet, but I would like to know if I can use a battery from any brand or shoul I get the exact same of the one apple use?
thanks!

1.5 Gb/s is the controller transfer speed for that model. SATA 3 at 6 Gb/s didn't arrive until after those computers were produced. SATA 2 can be jumpered down to 1.5 Gb/s (WD SATA 2 drives will use jumpers on pins 5&6), which you may or may not have to do, depending on the drive.
Not a guess. The WD drive you bought won't work.
You don't need the ridiculously overpriced Apple battery.
Specs here.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/stats/imac_cd_2.0_20.html

PRAM battery for iMac 333MHz

I have be trying to upgrade a iMac 333 MHz from 8.6 to 9.2.2
I am up to 9.1 but need to connect to my dsl to do the 82MB download.
I have been moving the iMac around to different electrical outlets now the iMac will not start up.
The date and time each time went to 1956 so I am thinking it is the PRAM battery right?
Does anyone know the type of PRAM battery I need to replace? I do not have the manual or tech specs...
JTS

http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86181 Macintosh Family: Batteries and Part Numbers.
Radio Shack's battery# is 23-026. It is a 3.6V Lithium 850mAh1/2 "AA" battery made for Apple computers.
Mac 3.6 Volt Battery

PowerBook G4 PRAM battery

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