PPPoE profile problem

Hi
I have to enble virtual-profile aaa in 7200vxr router but i have only two options:
Router(config)#virtual-profile ?
if-needed
virtual-template
I don't understand where is the problem?
Any help please
the version is:
isco IOS Software, 7200 Software (C7200-JK9O3S-M), Version 12.3(14)T4, RELEASE SOFTWARE (fc2)
Technical Support: http://www.cisco.com/techsupport
Copyright (c) 1986-2005 by Cisco Systems, Inc.
Compiled Fri 09-Sep-05 00:39 by kehsiao
ROM: System Bootstrap, Version 12.3(4r)T3, RELEASE SOFTWARE (fc1)
BOOTLDR: 7200 Software (C7200-KBOOT-M), Version 12.3(9), RELEASE SOFTWARE (fc2)

you can find more information from this document
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/sw/iosswrel/ps1830/products_feature_guide09186a00800879f6.html

Similar Messages

  • Constant IP Profile Problems

    Good Morning Everyone,
    I seem to have constant IP Profile problems where I have to keep contacting the Broadband Helpdesk to get the IP Reset every few weeks.  It seems to do it if the weather is bad (like over the past couple of days) or if i watch videos streamed from  YouTube.  I told the operator this the last time i called, but it was just dismissed and they just reset the profile.
    Last night everything seemed so slow, so i ran a speedtest and yep the profile has dropped again and has been set to 2mbps.  I connect at 8mbps and normally my download speed is around the 7.30mbps mark.  What could be causing this?
    Many Thanks, Steve  
    Here's my first lot of settings as requested;
    BT Speedtest Results (Current - Normal Socket)
     Download speed achieved during the test was - 2.1 Mbps
     For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 0.4 Mbps-2 Mbps.
     Additional Information:
     Your DSL Connection Rate :8.13 Mbps(DOWN-STREAM), 0.45 Mbps(UP-STREAM)
     IP Profile for your line is - 2 Mbps
    Quiet Line Test (Current - Normal Socket)
    Call break up when first connected, slight crackling and hissing
    Connection Plate
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    Home Hub Version
    BT Home Hub v2 with Broadband Telephone
    ADSL Stats (Current - Normal Socket)
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    Connection time
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    Upstream
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    ADSL settings
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    Type
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    Modulation
    ITU-T G.992.1
    Latency type
    Fast
    Noise margin (Down/Up)
    5.9 dB / 22.0 dB
    Line attenuation (Down/Up)
    21.0 dB / 12.5 dB
    Output power (Down/Up)
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    Loss of Framing (Local)
    22
    Loss of Signal (Local)
    2
    Loss of Power (Local)
    0
    FEC Errors (Down/Up)
    0 / 0
    CRC Errors (Down/Up)
    0 / 2147480000
    HEC Errors (Down/Up)
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    BT Speedtest Results (Test Socket)
     Download speedachieved during the test was - 2.05 Mbps
     For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 0.4 Mbps-2 Mbps.
     Additional Information:
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     IP Profile for your line is - 2 Mbps
    Quiet Line Test (Test Socket)
    Very slight crackling and hissing
    ADSL Stats (Test Socket)
    Line state
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    Connection time
    0 days, 0:15:12
    Downstream
    8,128 Kbps
    Upstream
    448 Kbps
    ADSL settings
    VPI/VCI
    0/38
    Type
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    Modulation
    ITU-T G.992.1
    Latency type
    Fast
    Noise margin (Down/Up)
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    Line attenuation (Down/Up)
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    Output power (Down/Up)
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    Loss of Framing (Local)
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    Loss of Signal (Local)
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    Loss of Power (Local)
    0
    FEC Errors (Down/Up)
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    CRC Errors (Down/Up)
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    HEC Errors (Down/Up)
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  • Roaming profile problem?

    I'm not sure it's a roaming profile problem or not, but I need help to fix it.
    we use MetaFrame citrix to connect a remote computer running a medical program. Every computer has Citrix online plug-in.
    If user uses computer user always use, everything will be fine.
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    seems no related to profile...
    you can recreate a user account to test.
    just a thoght...
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    Howtodo

  • Color profile problem/question.

    These two exports of the same file were taken on my spouse's D300s, and are good examples of a profile problem I cannot seem to solve.  This is the identical problem I also experience on the Nikon D700 and D3.  The following was exported with the "Camera Standard" profile, and notice the yellow sun reflection on the door panels:
    The following was exported with a xrite generated lightroom profile. Notice the better overall contrast, but also the horrendous unnatural yellow on the same door:
    This difference causes all sorts of distortion in natural animal hair that contains any red-orange.  I use these doors  because they are such a stark example.  Any attempts to correct with the WB will usually result in too much blue elsewhere.  Also I have created many test profiles under many light conditions (both manually and from LR), and they all cause this problem in all three cameras.  This is not a matter of one bad cameral, or one erroneously created profile.
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    George, thank you for this information. I have a couple of things for you to try and another question. The ColorChecker Passport color patches are small, so I would suggest trying to reshoot a calibration image with the ColorChecker Passport in the center and filling at least 1/3 of the picture width. In the image you provided the ColorChecker Passport is about 1/8 the image width and far left of center. I know, I know, it should not matter, but give it a try. This is what I'm doing to create camera profiles for all three of my camera bodies (Canon 300D, 600D, 5D MKII), and I have not had a single problem with "color matching" using this procedure AND what I will describe next.
    Concerning white balance procedure you say:
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    I assume you are referring to the large 60% reflectance white balance card on one side of the ColorChecker Passport, but you do not mention how you set white balance. I suggest using the LR white balance eyedropper tool with the smaller 80% reflectance gray scale patch on the ColorChecker Classic target side. This is the 2nd patch from the left bottom in your picture right next to the brightest 90% white patch. Two reasons for doing this! A higher reflectance patch reduces the influence of camera noise in the image with the LR 5 x 5 pixels eyedropper tool. Here's a LR forum post with a heated discussion on these issues (or lack thereof): http://forums.adobe.com/thread/854734?tstart=60 The second purely empirical reason is the "Classic" target side provides me with more accurate white balance than using the larger 60% card. Perhaps this is a defect with my ColorChecker Passport target, but I don't know.
    When setting white balance with the LR eyedropper tool I suggest taking at least five (5) samples of the 80% patch. I use the center, TL, TR, BR and BL corner areas of the patch. Do not use any reading that has a large variation from the others. Please remember that the eyedropper tool is sampling a very small 5 x 5 (25 pixels) area, and image noise or a target paint defect can give you a bogus reading. Write down the temp and tint for each of the five (5) readings, add them, and divide by five to get the "average" white balance temp and tint. Enter the temp and tint values manually into the white balance tool. I create a user preset for each profile which contains only the ColorChecker created camera profile and manually adjusted white balance settings.
    I would also suggest you check the readings of all six (6) grayscale patches for neutrality (R=G=B) using your new camera profile and white balance settings. I have found in some cases using the 65% reflectance patch (3rd patch in) provides the most neutral “overall” white balance setting for the six (6) patches. This is despite the fact it contains more camera noise than the 80% patch next to it. Again, this observation is purely empirical – I am not writing a scientific thesis! It works for me and hopefully it will get you closer to what you want.
    One thing I am going to do tomorrow is borrow a friends color checker to rule out the possibility mine is defective. It doesn't look defective, but the problem is so consistent.
    This is a very good idea! Having worked in a manufacturing environment for over 45 years, trust me when I tell you defective product from even the largest company ends up in the consumer’s hands. Please let us know what you find.

  • Color profile problem after installing CS4

    OK.
    First, let me post these side-by-side comparisons:
    As you can see in Image 1 (the "before," left-side photo in each comparison), the colors and overall appearance are distorted. I've read things about gamma but it's all confusing to me. This is surely a color profile problem, right? The transition among pixels that involve colors of yellow and gray is rocky, grainy, and the flat out color is just wrong. Now this color problem affects pictures when opened in both Photoshop 7.0 and the standard Windows Photo Viewer. Meaning, whenever I open pictures in both PS 7.0 and Windows Photo Viewer (my default viewer), this color problem totally messes up certain photos and really damages my ability to edit. I'm an avid photo editor and it's imperative I have proper color display so that I can accurately edit. Keep in mind that certain pictures do not take on this error. When a photo is generally brighter, the distortion is basically invisible. It's photos that are dark or have dark portions in them that display the distortion.
    *Note: I took these before-and-after pictures with my camera, because screencapping would not work, since you all don't have the same color profile issue on your computer. That's the only way I can show you!
    HOWEVER, when I open photos in another standard Windows application, "Microsoft Office Picture Manager," the color problem is magically erradicated altogether. It shows photos as I've been seeing them all along, until I installed CS4 about two weeks ago. Before installing CS4, everything was fine and I had been using Photoshop 7 for years and have never had a problem. I'm guessing CS4 messed something up. It had to have. Just FYI, I uninstalled CS4, hoping it would reverse the problem. But still, the color issue persists in PS 7 and in my regular Windows Photo Viewer.
    Since images display their true form in Windows Office Picture Manager, I don't think I need to calibrate my screen. Or do I? I've read things about it, and to some people, it's not necessary. Right? Okay. I really hope someone can give some advice! Thank you!
    P.S. Here's the original photo. On my screen, it looks distorted when opened in photoshop or opened w/the viewer. However, here on Firefox, it's fine.

    You should try to familiarize yourself with the concepts of color management.
    It's kind of too in-depth a subject to walk you through from a cold start here...  There are a lot of good resources out there to help you get started.  For example, in just a few seconds Google turned up this:
    http://www.adobepress.com/articles/article.asp?p=1315593
    The one thing to remember is this:  There is NO quick solution, easy set of defaults, or direct answer to making your setup do what you want without your having to understand color management.
    People may tell you to calibrate your monitors, or use a particular color profile as a default, or whatever, and they may have good, solid reasons for telling you those things, but if you don't attempt to get your mind around color management it will always seem as though something isn't working right, or is simply magic, which will be frustrating to you.
    Here are some basic questions to ponder:
    What image color profile is your image carrying?
    Is your monitor a wide-gamut display and do you have a color profile set up for it?  What kind of monitor is it?
    What version of Windows are you running?
    Do you know the difference between a color-managed app and one that is not color-managed?
    Which of the apps you're using/showing above are color-managed?
    What are your settings in Edit - Color Settings?
    Take some time and do some research, get your head around the concepts, and it will all make more sense I promise you.
    -Noel

  • How to solve the Embed Color Profile problem...

    Hi Everyone,
    This vijay from Chennai. I have one doubt for rectify the Embed color Profile problem, that's is how can i judges whether the file had Embed Color Profile or not. anyone solve this problem.
    Thanks in Advance.
    -yajiv

    I used another profiles name, because I dont have the old one installed anymore, Youll have to be exact about the letters though.
    And from a prepress-standpoint Id like to point out that removing the profile as opposed to »Convert to Profile« seems a peculiar practice, though of course Your reasons for doing so may be valid indeed.
    You could try:
    var myDocument = app.activeDocument;
    if (myDocument.colorProfileName == "U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2") {
    // =======================================================
    var idassignProfile = stringIDToTypeID( "assignProfile" );
    var desc2 = new ActionDescriptor();
    var idnull = charIDToTypeID( "null" );
    var ref1 = new ActionReference();
    var idDcmn = charIDToTypeID( "Dcmn" );
    var idOrdn = charIDToTypeID( "Ordn" );
    var idTrgt = charIDToTypeID( "Trgt" );
    ref1.putEnumerated( idDcmn, idOrdn, idTrgt );
    desc2.putReference( idnull, ref1 );
    var idmanage = stringIDToTypeID( "manage" );
    desc2.putBoolean( idmanage, false );
    executeAction( idassignProfile, desc2, DialogModes.NO );
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  • Full screen colour profile problem

    I just posted this as feedback to Apple and was curious to see if anyone was having the same problem:
    I have a dual monitor setup: One Eizo CG222W and one Eizo CG210. The 222W is my primary display (menu bar on this one). Both monitors are calibrated and profiled with a Spyder3 and ColorEyes Display Pro. I have the profiles loaded on both displays. It is worth noting that both (particularly the 222W) are wide gamut, so you may well not see this happening if you are looking at an Apple Cinema display (no offence, but you're just not going to see this so pronounced on an Apple display). To put it into perspective, I have just bought the CG222W and was not noticing any issues with the CG210 because its gamut is narrower (but still wider than a cinema display).
    So, if I view an image within Aperture (not full screen), then it looks normal, but when I hit full screen and look at the same image (on the same display), it is noticeably over-saturated. As a check I also opened the same image in Photoshop (on the same display) and it looks exactly the same as when viewed in the normal (non full screen) view of Aperture.
    It is clear that there is a colour profile problem with Aperture. It appears that when full screen mode is selected, a different profile is loaded for the display, or a different working space (if Aperture provides such functionality). I won't be doing any image adjustments in full screen mode until this has been corrected.

    There is well documented issue with this problem. The fix is to set your default monitor to whichever monitor you are using to view Aperture in full screen, using color sync utility.
    The reason you don't have this problem in PS is because it has its own color management within the software.
    Hope this helps,
    Cheers

  • Another IP profile problem and disgruntled custome...

    Right, I'll try to keep calm when posting this...
    Since 27th March 2011 I have been plagued by 2Mb downstream speeds out of a possible 7.5Mb.
    Before this date I had no issues and nothing has changed in terms of wiring, configuration or the like.
    After running speedtest, my line is capable of 7-8Mb but my IP profile is at 2Mb. I have contacted BT on at least 4 occasions and each time they said my profile has been reset and I should wait 24/48hrs for the speed to improve.
    Annoyingly, each time I wait, the end result is the same, 2Mb!
    Not short of losing the will to live and moving my BB to another provider, I want this issue sorted. It is unacceptable that after more than a week and numerous promises, the issue is still outstanding.
    I dont want to speak to 1st line support anymore, they are an insult to my intelligence. Someone from tech/engineering who is reading this that I can have a sensible technical conversation with, please contact me.
    Here are my stats.
    Speedtest:
    FAQ
    Test1 comprises of two tests
    1. Best Effort Test:  -provides background information.
    Download Speed
    1952 Kbps
    0 Kbps
    2000 Kbps
    Max Achievable Speed
     Download speed achieved during the test was - 1952 Kbps
     For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 800-2000 Kbps.
     Additional Information:
     Your DSL Connection Rate :7616 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 448 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
     IP Profile for your line is - 2000 Kbps
    The throughput of Best Efforts (BE) classes achieved during the test is - 13.39:23.67:62.96 (SBE:NBEBE)
    These figures represent the ratio while sententiously passing Sub BE, Normal BE and Priority BE marked traffic.
    The results of this test will vary depending on the way your ISP has decided to use these traffic classes.
    2. Upstream Test:  -provides background information.
    Upload Speed
    310 Kbps
    0 Kbps
    448 Kbps
    Max Achievable Speed
    >Upload speed achieved during the test was - 310 Kbps
     Additional Information:
     Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 448 Kbps
    We were unable to identify any performance problem with your service at this time.
    Homehub 2.0
    Line state
    Connected
    Connection time
    3 days, 20:24:21
    Downstream
    7,616 Kbps
    Upstream
    448 Kbps
    ADSL settings
    VPI/VCI
    0/38
    Type
    PPPoA
    Modulation
    ITU-T G.992.1
    Latency type
    Interleaved
    Noise margin (Down/Up)
    10.8 dB / 27.0 dB
    Line attenuation (Down/Up)
    28.0 dB / 11.5 dB
    Output power (Down/Up)
    19.8 dBm / 11.8 dBm
    Loss of Framing (Local)
    0
    Loss of Signal (Local)
    5
    Loss of Power (Local)
    0
    FEC Errors (Down/Up)
    15091 / 15
    CRC Errors (Down/Up)
    72 / 2147480000
    HEC Errors (Down/Up)
    nil / 4
    Error Seconds (Local)
    35

    Hi this is a peer to peer forum in other words customers helping each other the only BT presence are the Forum moderators
    could you first try the following test connect a corded phone to the test socket at the rear of the master socket and then dial 17070 and select option 2 any noise heard there should be reported to bt faults calling 151 and reporting a noisey phone line but do not mention broadband if there is any noise there once solved you broadband connection will improve within a few days also it is worth leaving your hub powered up 24/7 with no restarts for 3/5 days if the line is stable then your ip profile will return on its own when the exchange equipment see the line as stable. Changing isps will not help as they all use the same  copper pair betwen your home and the exchange 
    If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

  • Pppoe-start problem

    hello,
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    when i ping i get
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    Last edited by linux-obsessed (2011-04-25 20:40:28)

  • Persistent IP profile problems

    Hi,
    I live a long way from my local exchange so often lose sync. Not just me either - many of my neighbours suffer the same problem. I can almost always (>98% of time) sync at >1400kbps. Unfortunately, I suspect my repeated losses of sync are causing my IP profile to shrink to a minimum value. Currently it's set at 135 kbps and has been for the last 7 days.
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    So two requests/questions:
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    2. Is there anything I can do to prevent my profile sinking so low in future given that I can almost always sync at decent speeds?
    Regards,
    aje987

    Thanks for responding.
    Also (coincidence?) a BT engineer phoned me shortly after my first post to say they were about to reset my IP profile.
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    For your connection, the acceptable range of speed is 0.05 Mbps-0.25 Mbps
    Additional Information:
    Your DSL Connection Rate :1.95 Mbps(DOWN-STREAM), 0.45 Mbps(UP-STREAM)
    IP Profile for your line is - 0.14 Mbps
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    System Up Time 09:42:42
    Port
    Status
    TxPkts
    RxPkts
    Collisions
    Tx B/s
    Rx B/s
    Up Time
    WAN
    PPPoE
    7519
    7470
    0
    58
    446
    03:45:53
    LAN
    10M/100M
    65349
    66885
    0
    1333
    365
    09:42:37
    WLAN
    54M
    8140
    8628
    0
    83
    29
    09:42:26
    ADSL Link
    Downstream
    Upstream
    Connection Speed
    1984 kbps
    448 kbps
    Line Attenuation
    63 db
    15.5 db
    Noise Margin
    6 db
    16 db

  • Could not find a PPPoE server problem.

    I have been running my G4 plugged into a netgear ethernet hub for quite some time to get online. I also have a wireless router connected to it on which I run my windows laptops. I never had a problem having them all online at one time. I didn't use my G4 for a few weeks, when I turned it back on and tried to get online, I got the "could not find a PPPoE server" message. If I unplug the ethernet cable from the hub and plug it directly to the DSL modem, it connects with no problem, plug it back into the hub and it won't connect. I swapped the hub for a Linksys 5 port ethernet 10/100 switch. Same thing happens and I get the same message, but it will not get online if any of the PCs are online, if I shut the PCs down then the mac gets online, but if I have the mac online then the PCs will not connect. I have been on the phone with the drones from earthlink and they have been useless. If you tell them that you are running any kind of routing device the will not help you at all. I am at a loss as to how to get around this, like I said, it was all working fine before. I am not sure if the problem is at my end or if earthlink did something at their end. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    G4 Mac OS X (10.4.7) dual 533 MHz
    G4   Mac OS X (10.4.7)  

    Do you need to "spoof" the MAC address of the router or hub? some ISPs actually read and register the hardware MAC address of the first two devices downlinked. Modem and router, modem and G4, etc.
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    Possible that something happened. Or that your router needs to be reset. Or that a storm did something while you were gone, though you seem to have swapped devices enough to rule that part out. Or a bad cat5 cable that a mouse or cat gnawed on.
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    Do you have a surge protector in front of your modem? and again an RJ45 filter before it goes out to your router or G4? I put all my equipment on APC UPS and going through surge and line protection to protect ethernet ports and equipment.

  • Aperture and dual monitor ICC profile problem

    I am using an Epson Stylus Pro 3800 and run Aperture 2.1 from a MBP with a Cinema Display 23". I calibrated both displays (the 23" and the MBP display) with my ancient but working ColorVision Spyder, using OptiCal 3.7. I calibrated for a gamma of 2.2. and native white point. I check the results with various test images.
    Here is the problem: the calibration produces a perfectly calibrated display, but when I open Aperture some color change is taking place, as if Aperture pulls in a wrong profile for the display (which then also leads to wrong colors in the prints): sometimes the photo which I have printed out before in perfect quality displays with either a nasty yellow cast or with totally oversaturated colors. I have used ColorSync utility to make the 23" the default display and I have also tried to simply close the MBP to work only with the 23", and sometimes either of these this did the trick. Most of the times, however, I get these color casts or oversaturation of the photos which I had worked on for a while and printed earlier with perfection.
    I ran Disk Utility to Repair Disk Permissions (many Epson-related permissions were wrong, for example "Library/Printers/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/Libraries/UtilityCore.framework/Versions/ A/Resources/Icon8007.png", should be -rw-rw-r-- , they are -rwxrwxr-x ) and reinstalled the latest Epson driver for 10.5 repeatedly.
    Even more surprising, at times the color of the full screen image can be off at the same time the thumbnail looks perfect! How is this possible? It seems as if thumbnail and full image use different display profiles. In addition, if I export the Master and display it in Lightroom or CS2 it looks perfectly fine and prints as expected. (I use the appropriate "canned" ICC profiles for the printer-paper combination).
    The most surprising happens, however, when I drag the image from the 23" to the MBP: when the image is about half-way between the two displays (that is, one part is displayed on the 23", the other on the MBP scree) it suddenly changes from off-color or oversaturated to the correct color on the 23". If I then move the image up to the 23" again, the wrong display colors appear again.
    I am at a loss: I have spent a lot of money on the gorgeous screen, the great printer, and Aperture (which is a great program), but I cannot get Aperture to print reliably, or rather, I cannot get Aperture to use the right display profile to display the image correctly in a reliable way.
    I have read kbeat's color management blog and many entries on this blog here, but I have not found a solution. I appreciate your help.

    Kai,Simon,
    This is the problem i have been having.Colour profiling is correct,prints are rubbish.I run a fuji frontier
    as well as epson printers.Anything from aperture is not what you see on screen.I am running aperture2.1.
    Today we are removing 2.1 and doing a reinstall of 1.1 but not upgrading to 2 to test run prints.I have been looking for answers to this for sometime.
    Simon,the problems we are have are very similar to you clients,photoshop fine,aperture not.I also have 20"external apple monitor attached which is used as the colour correcting monitor ( as the imac screen is not that good for criticl work ) I will post my findings here.
    Simon, if you wish to investigate further,e-mail me,i am in leeds
    daisy ( not a happy printer )

  • Mogrify ICC Profile problem

    I have been using Mogrify on export from LR, and I love it. Only one problem. On B&W conversions, when I open them in PS, I get an error box saying "The embedded ICC profile cannot be used because the ICC profile is invalid. Ignoring the profile." Clicking on OK, it will open, but it is Grayscale instead of RGB. I only have to click on Image>Mode>RGB to get it back to normal, but we do a LOT of B&W, and it would be nice not to have to do this every time.
    I am on a PC, XP. I have tried directing Mogrify to all of the sRGB profiles I can find on my computer, using Mogrify format options>Convert to colorspace. No help. I have tried just clicking on the Grayscale button in LR, and also converting to B&W by using a preset that moves all the saturation sliders to -100 (I like the tones I get this way better). The same results on both. Interestingly, if I move only one slider to -99, I get a good export. No error message, and an RGB file.

    Hi Marty,
    Did you ever find a solution to this problem. I, too, ran into this and it drove me nuts since Photoshop or my online photo site could not display the images. Photoshop complained of a missing ICC profile. After experimenting, I found that setting the Lightroom/Mogrify plugin to No Sharpening did the trick. Also, when using Basic Sharpening, any sharpening value below .2 had this problem. Once I bumped it up beyond that, the images magically started working again and Photoshop was happy with them. I have no explanation and couldn't find one in web searches. But, once I found a solution that did work, I stuck with it.
    I would still be interested in knowing if I did something wrong or if its just a bug in Mogrify.
    Del

  • Acrobat 9 Pro....Distiller / ICC Profile Problem

    I have loaded Acrobat 9 Pro 3 times and continue to get following error message every time I reboot computer:  "Distiller can not find your ICC profiles.  Please reinstall the software." Acrobat opens ok but will not print or perfom perform email forwarding as an attachment; Distiller will not initialize.
    Does anyone have a fix???

    Adobe Tech support was most helpful on this.  First download the updated
    Distiller ICC profile files at:
    http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/thankyou.jsp?ftpID=4075&fileID= 3790
    Unzip the file and copy only the *.icc files (without regard to the subfolders that they are in - in other words, take the files out of each of the subfolders) to the followng folder in Windows 7:
    c:\windows\system32\spool\drivers\color
    These new files will probably overwrite some old ones.
    This solved the problem for me.
    This is actually the best solution though I found that instead of copying all the .icc files to the windows\sys...  folder, all you need to do is copy the 3 Video files from the RGB folder (VideoHD.icc, VideoNTSC.icc, and VideoPAL.icc).  Once you add these three files to  c:\windows\system32\spool\drivers\color  you will be good to go.
    It seems that this was an error on the part of Adobe in that there is no reason to include Video files for printing.  Nevertheless, the distiller will look for these and return the ICC profile error message if those files are not present.

  • 5800 XM WPA-PSK and network profiles problem

    Hi,
    I've just purchased a 5800XM phone, with the idea of setting up my personal email account on the device, using my office's network access point.
    The access point / router is a Comtrend 5361. The SSID is set to hidden (no broadcast), and the security is set to WPA-PSK (pre-shared key).
    On the Nokia phone I go to 'Settings -> Connectivity -> Wireless LAN' and choose 'Other (hidden netw.)'.
    Then I choose 'Connect', set the WLAN network name, the phone shows a message 'No WLAN network found', but then prompts to choose network mode (Infrastructure - Hidden),  and then password. It connects succesfully and asks for storing the network profile under offline mode, I tell it to do so, and the new profile appears under 'Network destinations -> Internet'. So until now everything seems ok.
    The problem is that after the phone disconnects from the internet, the stored profile seems to be useless, since the phone never connects automatically even if the AP is available and always shows 'Search for WLAN'. In the list the hidden access point never shows up so the only choice is repeating the steps that I mentioned above, creating a new profile every time I want to surt the net.
    Is there a solution to this, or a third party software that can do the trick?, I have OS V21.0.25, custom version 21.0.025.219.06 from Vodafone, no updates available as of today, but I've tested it with a phone that has the latest OS v30 and it shows the same behavior.
    I can't change the access point settings, so I must stick to WPA and hidden SSID, so for me this is almost a deal breaker.

    Ok, I was testing the wifi part without a sim card inserted, with a sim, the phone connects to the profile properly, but without the sim it has an odd behavior, not loading the profile and wrongly stating that it can't connect when it does (but disconnects randomly).
    So the problem is that wireless lan management doesn't work properly without a sim card.

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