Pram battery direction

Help, I popped out my Pram battery in my G5 to check it and now I can't remember which way the polarity should be. Is the positive pointed to the front of the computer? You'd think there would be something stamped on to the battery carrier.
What's the deal with the DIY pages on this site, it now goes to a warranty info page.

Hi. Yes + to the front, as Fig 5 here
http://www.info.apple.com/usen/cip/pdf/g5/battery_b.pdf
DIY is here
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=26276
Good Luck.

Similar Messages

Directions for changing pram battery on imac DV

Hi,
A friend of mine has an imac 400 DV slot loader with a dead pram battery. I look after this computer for them but have never changed the battery on one of these. Can anyone give me directions and/or photos? I've had a look through older questions but the links all seem to be out of date.
Thanks,
James

This Macworld article has photos that illustrate removal of the bottom housing and EMI shield, to access the motherboard for upgrades. Some experienced users have been able to replace the battery, by accessing it through the memory door on the bottom. This involves the risk of letting it slip out of your fingers and then having to maneuver/tilt the iMac about, to remove the loose battery. Prior to removal, you should note the battery's orientation as to polarity (marked on the motherboard).

Computer clock resets to 1969. PRAM battery probably not the issue.

I have a PowerMac G4 mirrored doors computer running Tiger 10.4.11 that occasionally starts up with that error message saying: "Your computer's clock is set to a date before March 24th, 2001. This may cause some applications to behave erratically."
I know all about resetting the PRAM, resetting the NVRAM, and replacing a weak, or expired battery. I've read the relevant posts on the subject, in which well-intentioned guides say that the problem is "usually" or "generally" related to the PRAM battery. Well, I wish it could be that simple, because I have already had a new battery installed, and the problem continues. It is intermittent; it's been occurring for about six months now; and it persists.
I seek technical assistance and successful, problem-solving suggestions that go beyond merely suggesting that I zap the PRAM or replace the battery.
If there are potential SOFTWARE problems, please direct me to those potentially damaged files. None of the disk utilities that I have used—including Disk Warrior, TechTool Pro, OnyX, Cocktail, or Drive Genius— find anything wrong with my hard drive or the files on it. No corrupted resources are reported. Additionally, Intego's Virus Barrier finds no infected files either.
However, a FileBuddy search of files modified before 3/25/2001 finds several dozen files with improbable dates of 12/31/1969 or 1/1/1970. Fewer files dated 12/31/1969 occur after I go to the Date/Time preferences pane and reset the clock to the current date/time and then restart my computer, especially in regards to system-related files. Nonetheless, several dozen files with a 12/31/1969 still remain, even after the date/time reset and the system restart.
I do not know if any of those pre-historic files are playing a role in this chronic problem, so I offer that information for the technically more astute to ponder upon and factor in to any solutions which might be offered. I have read posts where someone might suggest a re-install of Tiger, but the original poster almost always reports that re-installing Tiger did not eliminate problem, so I would prefer suggestions that rely on a scalpel rather than a sledge hammer.
If someone suspects that there may be hardware problem, I would like to hear theories along that line, too, although I am unlikely to consider gutting the hardware items just to retain the attractive computer case. Even though I do have other computers (an iMac G5 and a MacBook Pro), the PowerMac G4 is my preferred workhorse, and it is the only one configured to run Final Cut Pro (version 4.5; I can't afford to upgrade now), so I want to keep it functional without a major investment into an older machine.
When the computer clock problem first reared its irritating head several months ago, it was accompanied with kernel crashes that turned out to be related to the nVidia video card. I brought the machine in to a local shop, because it was refusing to power on. They installed a new battery to replace the original, probably weak original battery, and they replaced the probably defective nVidia video card with a used nVidia card I found on eBay. The shop also claimed that I needed to replace the motherboard and the power supply to ensure that the G4 would power on and that it would present a desktop without the warning message about the computer clock being set to 12/31/1969.
I decided to reject their assessment, since the whole repair job would have amounted to about $1,100. It seemed like an excessive solution. Since taking the G4 back about three months ago with only the new battery and the replacement video card installed, the computer has powered on every single time without fail, which, to my non-technician mind, would appear to indicate that the power supply is OK. However, I do still get an occasional warning about the computer clock being set to a date before March 24th, 2001.
I do not have the technical expertise or repair knowledge to know if the problem is hardware-related, software-related, power supply-related, or a complex interaction between all of them. If someone can suggest a permanent fix to eliminate the computer clock error problem WITHOUT requiring me to make a major investment in repairing or replacing hardware components, that would be ideal. On the other hand, if this clock problem is merely is an irritant, but not a sign of something more serious or expensive, then I am willing to live with it and get around the problem by going through the steps of resetting the clock when required and then restarting the computer with a correctly set clock.
My main goal, of course, is to have a reliable, stable computer. If it costs too much to eliminate the computer clock irritation on a permanent basis, then I am willing to live with the problem, as long as its presence does not disrupt my work flow. In that case, I would appreciate it if someone could explain what might be going on, so that I know what to expect and what to do about it.
I hope this is sufficient information with which to make a diagnosis and recommendation. If not, ask for more. Thanks.
bowlerboy

Short answer =
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
======================================================================
Long answer =
Thanks, BDAqua, for offering your help. I'm not exactly new to these forums, but somehow my previous contributions have all been wiped out, so I've restarted under a new account name.
I've had my G4 MDD for five years, and it's always been quite stable for me, so I'm not quite sure that this model is "cantankerous." I do find the computer clock error message irritating, though, so it would be nice to know the source of the problem and its permanent solution.
Since my original posting, I elected not to Shut Down the G4 to see what would happen. It functioned just fine since then, allowing me to create some short Final Cut Pro movies as Christmas presents to family members. With one exception, all other applications also functioned without problems. The only problem I'm encountering has to do with H-P Photosmart Studio, an application bundled with the HP All-in-one model C7280. It will not settle down to work, forcing me to Force Quit it every time. Since that app works fine on my iMac G5, I decided to trouble-shoot it by reinstalling the HP software, a process that requires me to Shut Down. (If possible, I want to see if the problem is with the HP software, or with Tiger on my G4.)
However, before I can get even get to trouble-shooting the HP Photosmart, the G4 gives me that computer clock error upon re-boot. In the past, the Date & Time error message has appeared upon a cold reboot, no matter whether I had reset the Date & Time in the preference pane via the Network clock or manually. However, I never conducted my tests in conjunction with disconnecting the A/C power cable. So, I decided to try the the test you suggested. Here are my observations and the results of the test.
1) Upon Shut Down, cool down, and restart, I get the computer clock error message mentioned at the beginning of my original post, telling me that my clock is set to a earlier date.
2) When I open the Date & Time preferences pane, however, the date and time shown there (as well as on the Finder's menu bar) is current.
3) The Network setting was ON, so, to comply with this test, I unchecked the "Set date & time automatically" box. I do not need to reset date and time manually, because, as I mentioned they ARE set correctly, even though the message I got upon restart said that they are not. (If memory serves me correctly, though, the Date & Time panel would actually show 12/31/69 as the computer clock's read-out, so this discrepancy is somehow connected to this problem. )
4) I shut down the G4 for 2 hours, and I disconnected all cables and plugs to it, including A/C power.
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting.
6) I take screen captures of the error message and the menu bar: both .PNG files are time-stamped as of 12/31/1969 at around 7:01 PM.
7) I will now reset the clock to the current Date and Time by turning the Network time feature back on, so I can get on with my work while the trouble-shooting process continues.
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
If it's a software problem, then should I do I clean install of Tiger? If I do that, is there any evidence that a clean install will do any good to eradicate the problem?
On the other hand, if this is a hardware issue, is it contained to merely being an irritant that I can fix merely by adjusting the Date & Time whenever the problem occurs (which I can live with, as long as the system is stable after that fix), or is this error message regarding a sign of something more ominous failing on the motherboard?
bowlerboy

PRAM battery reset or similar for PowerBook G3 400MHz Lombard

Hello,
I recently acquired a PowerBook G3 400MHz Lombard? (not pismo)- with the battery dead and it not getting any signs of life beyond a green light on the display or the caps-lock. I was wondering if there is a simple fix that might get this going, similar to removing the PRAM battery on a Pismo that has been sitting there til the batteries drained. Any help would be appreciated so I'm headed in the right direction on this.
Thanks.
-m

Hi jpl,
First let me say a big thank you for such a prompt response. I love this place because of participants like you... thanks.
You have a Powerbook G4 in your profile; if you do
not have the Powerbook G3 Series Bronze Keyboard, the
following does not apply. If you have a G4, head over
to this forum:
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=
124
Sorry for any confusion. I indeed have a G3 Lombard with the bronze keyboard (Got it in 1999). I then upgraded to the G4 about 3.5 years ago. And just last week I got me a shiny new intel iMac.
The Lombard is currently running Jaguar, but its gotten sluggish and has run out of space (original specs). I want to reinstall OS 9, but I have this current issue with starting it up.
Generally, if the powerbook does boot up, even
occasionally, you do not have a corrupted power
manager. The procedure you quote is for a powerbook
that does not start at all, even after a normal power
manager reset, and this usually occurs when a 'book
has been unused for a few months...this allows the
batteries to run flat and corrupt the power manager.
Unlike desktop computers, powerbooks can run fine
with a dead backup battery.
The computer is being used almost daily...
I would look first at other potential problems...
- Do you have a working main battery?
No.
- Once the 'book is running, does it perform
normally? Can you sleep/wake the 'book and also
perform a restart?
Once it's running it performs normally. I can sleep and wake. I CANNOT perform a restart.
- Once running, open the System Profiler >
Memory...does it report either 512K or 1MB of L2
cache?
My 'book is at home currently... I will check when I get home.
- When shut down, remove the main battery and optical
drive. With the power adapter connected, press the
reset button on the back panel to reset the power
manager, wait 5 seconds, then press the power button.
Does it •always• start normally from a cold start
when following this procedure?
I want to say no, but I will double check this as well when I get home.
Thanks again for your help!

HELP: trying to find a PRAM battery

hi everyone,
My PowerBook needs a new PRAM battery but I'm having a heck of a time finding a retailer that has the exact one need for our dear 15" G4 PowerBooks. iFixit lists them but has currently does not have any in stock.
http://www.ifixit.com/Mac-Parts/PowerBook-G4-Aluminum-15%22-Model-A1138#0-PRAM+B atteries
Could you please point me in the direction of a retailer that both sells them and has them in stock?
Your help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
yours,
JimQ

Pbparts.com has 2 in stock: http://www.pbparts.com/shop.php//9227173.html

Show status of a Mac's PRAM battery

Is there any software available for Mac OS X Leopard to show the status of the Mac's PRAM battery? Thanks.

Based on what you've posted, your instructor is clearly trying to get you to dig deeper into computer security.
If you're depending on anti-virus and anti-malware tools as your foundation of knowledge here, then you will want to learn more about the trade-offs inherent in those tools — classic signature-based anti-virus isn't particularly effective against polymorphic malware or other shenanigans, nor is it particularly effective against spearphishing or other such targeted attacks, nor against 0days.
Here is some reading that'll give you a grounding in what's involved with OS X security:
Apple security guides for 10.6; the basics are still true
NSA security guides for iOS and OS X
If you don't find any malware on your system — which is entirely possible with Microsoft Windows, OS X or Linux — then you'll want to use your initiative here, abd perform some sort of directed research. Possibly describe some malware and how it might bypass "protective" tools — like that antivirus stuff you're depending on — or describe how components such as Gatekeeper and XProtect work in some details and what the tradeoffs are with these tools and with other forms of anti-virus and anti-malware tools.
Opinion: remember too that you're looking to satisfy or to preferably to impress your instructor, and you're looking to satisfy or to impress potential employers — a good school teaches how to research, and how to think. What you happen to learn about, while you're learning to think for yourself and to research questions? Perversely, that is almost incidental. (All of the tech I learned about in college is long gone, or has massively evolved.)
Obtaining and maintaining a reasonable assurance that your system has no malware would probably be more far more interesting in general, too — "randomly" finding one hunk of malware is a much smaller achievement, after all.

How to replace an PRAM battery?? IMac g3 9.1 "Bondi Blue"

I think that my PRAM battery is dead. Can anyone give me instructions to replace it? I have a full working battery from an older computer lying around somewhere...

Hi, Ben -
Replacing the battery in early iMacs can be tricky. You would probably get a quicker directed response if you reposted this question in one of the hardware forums for the iMac G3 models. The most appropriate would probably be this one, the Using your iMac G3 (CRT) forum -
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=888
Not all computers use the same battery. This Apple KBase article cross references battery part numbers with models -
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA21569

Pram Battery replacement?

I have been searching the apple support pages for the correct procedure to replace the Pram battery. Everything is working well on my G4 so this procedure is preventative.
Can I swap the battery and start the computer up or do I have to press the pram button? Perhaps i have to hold down some magic combination of keys or at start up?
Thanks very much

Some references for you:
[Texas Mac Man's PRAM, battery, PMU tutorial|http://www.geocities.com/texas_macman/pram.html]
[PRAM reset directions|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238]
You don't need to reset the PRAM if swapping the battery, though if you leave the computer without a battery for longer than about 30 seconds (or is that minutes?), it will lose the PRAM memory and will be as if you had reset the PRAM.

What's easier? Replacing pram battery or hard drive and dvd drive?

I have a dead imac g4 flat panel with all my files and a dvd drive. I have a working imac same year, same processor but with only a cd drive.
First, I want my files.
Then, I wouldn't mind keeping one of them as a dvd player.
Would appreciate any suggestions!
(I don't actually know if it is the battery or power supply which is dead.)

My experiences lately with my NEW (to me) 20" iMac G4.
1.25 GHZ PPC 1 GB RAM 160 GB HDD
Purchased on eBay in the orginal box for $349.00 delivered.
When the computer arrive it appeared to be in excellent shape. It turned on and operated without any problems. I really purchased as a project, and intended to restore to as NEW as possible. The iMac arrive with the usual specification for the model (born on date 3/2004). Specification were 1.25 GHZ PPC, 1GB RAM 512/slot.
So I purchased some parts to get started (like I said above everything worked).
1. OWC RAM 1GB/slot for a total of 2BG's ($55.98/Free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/2700DDRS1GBA/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/2700DDR1024/
2. OWC PRAM battery ($3.99/free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAA36VPRAM/
3. OWC LG internal Optical Drive ($45.99/free shipping)
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/optical-drives/superdrives/imac/g4
4. IOGEAR Bluetooth (ver 2.1) Adapter (USB 2.0 Micro) ($13.99/free shipping)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833139019
5. Apple Wireless Magic Mouse (had a spare)
6. Apple USB Keyboard (newest) (had a spare)
Before installing the parts I cleaned out the dust and grim (nasty dirty), removed the Fan and cleaned (nasty dirty), I also removed the Thermal Grease and applied new Thermal Grease (used Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound). I used a powerful vaccum and a air compressor (120 psi), and damp Q-Tips.
On the outter shell and back of monitor I used SoftScrub/Bleach lite scrub and then rinsed with a damp cotton rag (looks brand NEW). Was sure to remove ALL of the SoftScrub.
On the screen I used iKlear and a iKlear cleaning cloth, screen is in MINT condition.
Honestly the computer looks and operates much better than I had anticipated.
I really didn't need to install a new Optical drive in the 20" but it was a cheap upgrade. And so. I have a iMac G4 17" with the same spec's as the 20" iMac so I opted to install the 20" iMac's Optical drive in the 17" iMac. The 17" would only play CD'd and not DVD's.
After putting everything back together I installed Leopard 10.5.6, then upgraded to 10.5.8. I installed Quicktime 7.7 for Leopard and iTunes 10.6.3. Installed iLife09 (no iMovie), iWorks09, Superduper (latest), and Disk Warrior 4.4,
I chose not to upgrade the HDD simple because it is working fine and I don't have any critical information stored on it.
My final upgrade would be to install a new FAN but I'll wait on that for a while. Since the Fan operates fine it does have a very, very slight whine meaning the bearings are starting to wear a bit. Probably because of the dirt and grime that was on there from before.
I would like to buy a NEW Fan to install but right now the only option is to buy a Apple Fan (part# 622-6215). I wouldn't mind a non OEM Fan but the little fins on the side of the Fan's walls are a concern for proper air flow.
http://www.welovemacs.com/9226215.html ($69.95 + $4.50 shipping).

Hard drive 6 gb/s and PRAM battery questions

I have two questions:
1) Does iMac Core Duo 20'' (early 2006 first intel model) support 6 gb/s hard drive (I recently bought a WESTERN DIGITAL Sata III 6 Gb / s buffer 64 Mb 7200 rpm)? when I will upgrade my hard drive it will recognize 6 gb/s speed data transfer? or it will recognize lesser?
2) Can I use any 3V Lithium CR2032 coin Battery as PRAM battery replacement on my iMac? I know that its 3V CR2032 from Mactracker or nay other sites from internet, but I would like to know if I can use a battery from any brand or shoul I get the exact same of the one apple use?
thanks!

1.5 Gb/s is the controller transfer speed for that model. SATA 3 at 6 Gb/s didn't arrive until after those computers were produced. SATA 2 can be jumpered down to 1.5 Gb/s (WD SATA 2 drives will use jumpers on pins 5&6), which you may or may not have to do, depending on the drive.
Not a guess. The WD drive you bought won't work.
You don't need the ridiculously overpriced Apple battery.
Specs here.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/stats/imac_cd_2.0_20.html

PRAM battery for iMac 333MHz

I have be trying to upgrade a iMac 333 MHz from 8.6 to 9.2.2
I am up to 9.1 but need to connect to my dsl to do the 82MB download.
I have been moving the iMac around to different electrical outlets now the iMac will not start up.
The date and time each time went to 1956 so I am thinking it is the PRAM battery right?
Does anyone know the type of PRAM battery I need to replace? I do not have the manual or tech specs...
JTS

http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86181 Macintosh Family: Batteries and Part Numbers.
Radio Shack's battery# is 23-026. It is a 3.6V Lithium 850mAh1/2 "AA" battery made for Apple computers.
Mac 3.6 Volt Battery

How Necessary is PRAM battery on MacBook Pro (c2d intel 2.13, model a1211)

Hello Everyone, I stupidly broke the socket/clip where the pram battery attaches to the logic board on my Macbook Pro (c2d Intel 2.13). Unfortunately, since the socket/clip is a surface mount component and the way it broke (I don't see solder pads) I'm unable to re-solder the clip back on to the motherboard. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about (borrowed from someone else who apparently did the same thing): http://yfrog.com/6ximg0870nj
My first question is if anyone knows how vital the pram battery is to a Intel Macbook? It seems that the laptop works fine without the pram battery. Is the battery only necessary to retain pram settings if the main laptop battery is removed and the power adapter disconnected?
Second question is whether there is any alternative to repair the logic board other than get an entirely new board? The laptop is recently out of warranty (Applecare expired earlier this year) and I don't believe that Apple would have covered this since I caused the damage myself.
Third question(s) is whether it would cause any problems to use the logic board out of a c2d 2.33 a1211 macbook pro (I can get my hands on one for a pretty reasonable price)? The only difference I can see between the two boards is the clock speed of the main processor and the amount of video ram. Would there be any advantage to using this logic board? Doesn't seem like the speed bump and video ram would do to much.
Thanks in advance for any comments/help you can offer.

Much obliged. So it sounds like the only time this will be an issue is if I disconnect the regular battery and the power supply at the same time. The rational thing to do here is to just live with it rather than blowing hundreds on the new logic board and risking additional damage during replacement.
I just wish I wasn't so OCD about this. Bothers me a bit to know that something is wrong with the laptop even if it doesn't manifest itself on a day to day basis.

How do you change the pram battery on a slot loading iMac?

I'm hopeful that a new pram battery will solve the problems I've been having with my iMac. I just have to put it in, and judging by the correspondence I've seen on this subject, that's not an easy job. (One letter spoke of having to remove 16 screws) Does anyone know of a site that gives instructions complete with illustrations for changing the battery? It seems silly to have to take my set to a repair shop to change the battery, but I don't feel up to removing 16 screws without very clear instructions.

Hello,
So far, so good. My computer started after I changed
the battery, however, I can't be sure until tomorrow
morning because my set was still warm when I started
it. Tomorrow is the acid test. I'll let you, and
everyone else who has tried to help me, then.
Glad to hear that you survived, and that it seems to be working
Let us know what you find tomorrow.
A few comments: Whatever happens, this experience
will give me more courage for the future. I now know
that I can open my computer without breaking
anything--anything important, that is.
That's always a good thing
Possible problem: After putting in the new battery, I
noticed a loose black wire with a metal tip right
next to the battery.
Interesting...
The only thing I could think of that might look like that might be the Airport antenna.
But, it could be something else. Without pictures, it would be hard to really guess at it.
I hadn't noticed it before, so I
don't know if I might have accidentally unplugged it
from where it should be. Anyway, just to be sure, I
wrapped the metal tip with scotch tape to insulate it
in case it comes in contact with a metal part.
Was it attached to the logic board (the main circuit board which your battery was on)? Or, was it coming from somewhere inside the computer's case?
Any idea or description of where it's other end was attached?
I hate to tell you this now, but electrical tape would have been a better choice for insulating it. It's still possible for electrical current to pass through scotch-tape.
A small, white polyethene? part fell out during my
activities. I can only hope that it's not essential.
Without a description, it's hard to say what that might have been.
Does it look like a bracket? If so, it may have gone around one of the connectors around the CD-ROM drive connectors, or one of the other cables you disconnected.
Otherwise, if it doesn't appear to have a function, it might just be a piece of broken plastic.
If it's flat and rectangular, it could also be a cap that goes over the battery. But, those are usually black with a couple of tabs to hold it in-place.
Also, it looks like two small,flat, grayish tabs got
snapped off the bottom panel when I removed it.
That happens sometimes. I was fortunate with my system. I've opened it many times without breaking anything (yet).
I didn't find the job to be easy, but maybe that's
because I was stresed out during the whole operation.
Yes, that doesn't help.
Fear was the problem. I was afraid that I might touch
the wrong part, I was afraid that I might drop a
screw ito the computer, I was afraid that I was going
to break the bottom panel in the process of removing
it, etc. The most difficult step was replacing the
heat shield. For a while, I thought that I would have
to give up and just attach it as best I could.
Glad to hear it all went back together.
Hopefully the extra parts and cable were not important. I would feel better figuring out what they were if it were my machine. But, it's up to you if you want to delve back in there and try and figure it out.
Well, that's a summary of Niku's excellent adventure
in the computer repair world. Tomorrow I'll know if I
was successful. Wish me luck.
Thank you for the update. I hope all goes well and continues working for you.
Be sure to tell us what you find out in the morning.
Let us know if you have other questions.
P.S., if you'd like, go ahead and click the "Helpful" or "Solved" buttons on any of the posts / replies above if you feel they were helpful or adequately answered your question.

Replacing pram battery

I will be opening up my iMac (G3 400 early 2001) soon to install a new hard drive. I realized this would be a good time to change the pram battery which is original, but still good.
If I do the replacement quickly enough will all the settings be saved? If not, what is involved to restore them? Is resetting the pram necessary? What, in general, should I know about doing this?
Also, since this will, at the same time, involve replacing the HD for upgrade- I will be cloning bootable external to new HD (with partition just below 128GB- how will the battery change complicate, if at all, this procedure? If settings are lost should I restore them when booted first from the external before cloning and partitioning? Thanks for any help on this.

You are stressing too much about this. Just replace the battery. After you get everything reassembled you will want to reset the PRAM and then set the clock.
It has nothing to do with the hard drive.

Replace PRAM battery in in Intel core2 duo iMac?

I have just installed the iStat widget in my Intel Core2 Duo 2.16 Ghz iMac. I was a little surprised to see a battery level reading on it (of 45%). I wonder if it is measuring the remaining life of the PRAM battery. Remembering how badly my Powermac and my wife's G5 iMac behaved when their back-up batteries needed replacing, I want to avoid the same situation on my Intel iMac. However I can find nothing on Apple support for replacing the PRAM/back-up battery on an Intel iMac, so I am wondering if there is a replaceable battery or not. Anyone know?
Thanks
Wilson

From iSlayer Battery Section:
This section shows various information about your Mac’s battery. This section is only visible if you actually have a battery and won’t appear on desktops.
Percentage
The current battery charge as a percentage. This is also shown as a bar at the bottom of the section.
Time
Time left using the battery, time until charged, or “Charged” if the battery is fully charged.
Source
“AC” if the Mac is connected to mains power, or “Battery” if the battery is being used.
Status
This shows if the battery is charged, charging or draining.
Battery Health
This is a comparison between your current battery capacity and capacity of it when it was new. For example, if your battery lasted 5 hours when it was new, a figure of 50% suggests you should get 2.5 hours out of your battery now.
Cycles
The amount of battery “cycles” the battery has had. One cycle is defined as a complete discharge and charge of the battery, but partial discharge and charges also count. So, two half discharge and charges are the same as one complete discharge.
For some tips on how to get the most out of your laptop’s battery, please visit this Apple support page.
Message was edited by: lakewoodlawnman

Pram battery direction

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