Presets for workflow

Hi, got deleted from Scott Kelby's site because I posted this? Got to wonder. Anyway, do any of you understand what I'm trying to say?
Lightroom presets for workflow. A basic starting point. First you will need your monitor calibrated. Lightroom 2. Photoshop CS3 or newer.
After working with Lightroom for about two weeks now. I found that there is a learning curve to working with develop settings and trying to find the best image. I took this up, because I was getting kind of flat looking results with lightroom only. Figured I needed a good starting base to work from.
Since I already had CS3, I took the raw file from lightroom and edited it to CS3 threw edit export. Then using curves in CS3, I used Scott Kelby's Method of working darks, mid-tones and highlights. From there I made any final tweaks opening up curves again.
Next saved the image and went back to lightroom 2. where it showed up as a PSD file. Next, I made a virtual copy of the (raw file) original and tried to match the same exposure, colour, contrast, etc. of the psd using lightroom. Making these adjustments in the develop module, mostly using Basic and Tone curves. After getting as close as possible to the settings I had made in curves with CS3 (psd file), I used the virtual copied clone file in lightroom to make a preset.
I called this preset "CS3 snap" and use it as my base starting point in lightroom. Works pretty good and I make tweaks from there when working with a new image. I think there is room for other presets in areas like hard backlight and Black N White.
Would like to know how other lightroom users are getting consistant results. Improving processes, techniques. Those of you who leave their email, I'll send you the preset free. I would send my blog link, but am afraid I might get deleted as spam. Would like to know how it works for others. Jon L

Honestly, does anyone here understand what I'm trying to say?
First, export a raw or dng file to CS3
Then make a good image in CS3-the best you can.
Next save it in PSD format, by just clicking the save button. This will take the changes back to lightroom.
Then, make another virtual copy of the original raw file.
Go and try and get the image to match, by using lightrooms setting sliders.
Once you have an a close match, save as a preset. One for standard images, and one for
backlight images.
This should make every image easier to fine tune. You will have to do this for every camera you own. Jon

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