Print much darker than displayed photo
recently upgraaded to latest Mac system. Using Canon Pixma Pro 9000 printer. When printing image, final print very much darker than displayed on screen! Using LR 4
Have a look at this video: http://tv.adobe.com/watch/getting-started-with-adobe-photoshop-lightroom-4/lightroom-4-pri nt-the-perfect-image/
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Why are the photos i print much darker than the monitor image?
why are the photos i print much darker than the monitor image?
Please read this post then provide some details. What printer model? What operating system? What program are you printing from?
Some programs such as Photoshop give the option to print to CMYK or sRGB color spaces. Even though the printer uses CMYK inks the driver is expecting sRGB data. If CMYK is selected the prints will be much too dark.
Another thing to check is the media type. If you are printing on plain paper and have seelcted Photo paper the prints have too much ink.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V -
Images seem to print much darker than they appear on screen?
I have been using iPhoto to create cards and then I later save them as .pdf files so I can take them to another mac connected to an Epson 1400 printer and print them. Prior to making the cards in iPhoto, I do basic levels and auto color adjustments in Photoshop. Some of the cards that I am printing seem to be so much darker than the way they appear on screen. I understand that there is a differene between what is presented on a display and the way something may print, but the difference is so drastic. Is this something to do with iPhoto?
Thanks.rick.pearl
Because every maker of computer, software and printer have a different definition of the various colors Apple and others got together to agree definitions that would work together. So if you assign a color space to an image - sRGB, say - then any software or hardware that respect the color space will be using the same meaning for 'green' or 'blue'.
In iPhoto Preferences -> Advanced, check the box for Embed Color Sync Profile, and this will embed a profile on every pic you add from now on.
As to the one's already in, Old Toad has kindly created an Automator action that will add an sRGB profile to pics already in iPhoto. You can downlaod it from here.
http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/wa/default?user=toad.hall&tem platefn=FileSharing7.html&xmlfn=TKDocument.7.xml&sitefn=RootSite.xml&aff=consume r&cty=US&lang=en#
Regards
TD
as to the points: most everything I do is pointless -
Elements 10, Windows 8, 64 bit, Epson Artisan 835 printer: Prints are really dark even after applying enhancements, like adjusting lighting. Prints are darker than Photoshop Edit Screen. Prints are acceptable using Paint, Windows Photoviewer, or Photo Gallery.
In general theory, one now has the Edit button for their posts, until someone/anyone Replies to it. I've had Edit available for weeks, as opposed to the old forum's ~ 30 mins.
That, however, is in theory. I've posted, and immediately seen something that needed editing, only to find NO Replies, yet the Edit button is no longer available, only seconds later. Still, in that same thread, I'd have the Edit button from older posts, to which there had also been no Replies even after several days/weeks. Found one that had to be over a month old, and Edit was still there.
Do not know the why/how of this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe there WAS a Reply, that "ate" my Edit button, but had not Refreshed on my screen. Refresh still showed no Replies, just no Edit either. In those cases, I just Reply and mention the [Edit].
Also, it seems that the buttons get very scrambled at times, and Refresh does not always clear that up. I end up clicking where I "think" the right button should be and hope for the best. Seems that when the buttons do bunch up they can appear at random around the page, often three atop one another, and maybe one way the heck out in left-field.
While I'm on a role, it would be nice to be able to switch between Flattened and Threaded Views on the fly. Each has a use, and having to go to Options and then come back down to the thread is a very slow process. Jive is probably incapable of this, but I can dream.
Hunt -
Prints are darker than what appears on PC screen
Windows Vista Business OS
Acer laptop PC
PSE6
Good morning.
I'm so hoping that someone has an easy solution to this printing issue.
In PSE6, I've created 85 scrapbook poem pages in the following format: 300 dpi; 12 x 12 size that will be reduced to a print size of 8 x8.
I worked all summer on this project for my 98-year young grandma who is the author of these poems. Gram is spry and healthy, but given her age, we are both concerned that it will take a long time to remedy the problem - if the only solution to lighten is to go through each layer of all 85 pages and reset the light intensity. As she says in jest, "time" is really not on her side. This is our second poem book project - the first was handmade scrapbook poem pages that were printed directly from a UPS copycenter printer.
For this second project, I printed some test copies of a couple of pages on my inkjet Lexmark printer. Photo quality paper: the printed copy was much darker than what appeared on the laptop PC screen - details couldn't be distinguished. Lower quality paper: the printed copy had a faded looking print.
I will be taking the PDF format of the pages to the UPS copycenter, again. I've been told that the prints can be lightened, however, I'm concerned that the quality of the print will be compromised.
Any easy solutions to resolve this problem?
Thank you.
ShinleeAny suggestions or comments about this topic? I've been told by the UPS copy center that lightness/darkness modifications can be made from their printer; however my concern is that the print quality will be affected (i.e. lightening will cause a faded look).
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External projection much darker than the source
I am using a mini displayport to vga adapter and the external image is much darker than the source running on my mbp. this is going into a mixer then out to a projector. I also have an old pre intel powerbook that is doing the same thing(into a mixer and out to a projector) with s-video , with no problems at all.
this is a recent problem with the mbp,6 months ago it worked fine.
could it be the new os? if so how do i get back to the one i need?I am having the same problem with my brand new MacBook Pro connecting to a video projector with a Mini-display to VGA connector. Many of the pictures are darker
than they should be. In PowerPoint I had to go to those darker slides and lighten them up (brightness up and contrast down). Now they are tolerable, but they still look better on the Mac screen than the projected image. Have tried three different projectors and find the same result. Projected colors are quite a bit different also. Puzzeled in Pennsylvania -
Why are colors in Illustrator 6 so much darker than in Illustrator 4?
I recently switched from Illustrator CS4 to CS6. The colors in 6 are much darker than in 4, and are not accurate to actual Pantone colors (they were very close to being accurate in 4). Has anyone experienced this, and does anyone know what to do about this?
Your color management settings may have changed since you said all colors are darker. check your color management settings match between CS6 & CS4.
Edit >> Color Settings
In regards to the difference between CS6 and CS5 or before the color books are now LAB not CMYK, so that means the values are different. A bad thing for print if you change the color mode to CMYK, the colors will be far off what the PMS book says, and you will have to manually fix this e color to match what CS4 uses.
CS5 the book colors were in CMYK so when you converted to CMYK the colors were a close match for printing.
In CS6 the color books switched to LAB which may be more accurate for RGB and digital workflows, but not Print CMYK.
In CS6 converting to CMYK, introduces scum dot (small value which serves little purpose and introduces screening) in cyan and black you would not desire, and in for example flexible packing scum dot would increase the visibility of a moire pattern. For printing never use the CMYK conversion in CS6.
Depending which PMS book you use the CMYK values change.
485 is 95m 100y in the Latest Color Bridge Book, so many brands prior to the bridge book reject that cmyk match for brand consistency with existing printing.
485 is 95m 100y in the solid process book. Many brands stick to this especially if they are matching what their brand was prior to the color bridge. -
Custom .look grade applied in Premiere seems much darker than in Speedgrade
I'm just starting to dig into the interaction between Premiere and Speedgrade. Maybe I'm missing something. When I try to apply a Lumetri custom .look file as either an effect or a filter in Premiere, the result is MUCH darker than it appears in Speedgrade. To explore further, I rendered the clip in question via Speedgrade, imported the result to Premiere, and the grade looked as it had in Speedgrade. Applying the .look file via Premiere to the same source clip, the result was once again far too dark.
Is there some setting that I'm missing someplace? Are other people having the same result?I'm not sure if you still have the same problem but I've noticed that certain LUT's that you can find in Speedgrade can help match the two programs and the way they display the image. Also I've realized the "Input Saturation" setting DOES NOT translate well into Premiere.
Try this:
1. Take a grade you made and turn the Input Saturation up quite a bit for that specific grade..
2. Create a separate .Look file with that grade.
3. Turn the Input Saturation back to default and make a separate .Look with that grade.
4. Switch between the grades from Step 1 and Step 3 to see if it better matches your Speedgrade image.
Note: If these still don't match, what matched my two programs almost perfectly was using the DAY4NIGHT - SL - 3527.itx LUT in the Speedgrade options under: Timeline > Setup at the bottom. Use this LUT in conjunction with Steps 1 through 4. Experiment with different LUTs.
I hope that helps! :-) -
How can i order prints of more than one photo at a time?
Hi I am trying to order prints of more than one photo at a time but can only select one photo - if I press command it just jumps to the next photo, not allowing me to select multiple photos.
ThanksEasiest way is to make an album of the photos you want to order, crop them to the print size, select all and order
LN -
H264 encoded playback file is much darker than original .avi
Hi -
I am trying to encode a large .avi file as H264 and everything goes well, but the playback is MUCH darker than the original .avi file is. I have done this before with a black and white video and had no problem, but this one is not working.
The avi is created in Sony vegas Pro and i found some online info suggesting that this is a known problem in earlier versions of Premiere, and that there is an edit that cna be made to the Prem60.ini file. However, I am running Premiere Pro 4.0 and can't even find an .ini file in the folder now.
This is encoding from NTSC 720 x 480 23.957 fps, to H264 NTSC DV Widescreen High Quality.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!Thank you for the reply!
Actually, When I export the avi project into Adobe Media Encoder, it gives me the following settings and they have been great until this file:
Export Settings:
Format: H.264
Preset: NTCH DV Widescreen High Quality
The summary info is NTSC, 720x480, 29.97 fps, LOWER
I have used these same settings before and the qulity has been outstanding.
I did read online that there was a problem in premier 6.0 with Premiere working better with the Microsoft codec rather than the Soney vegas Pro codec and that to solve teh proble you can edit th ePrem60.ini file to tell the program to ignore the Sony codec and default to the MS one, but that's for an older version and I cant even find an ini file for Premiere Pro...
I would really appreciate any help I can get on this - -
PSE6 Mac Printing Colours darker than PSE4 - Adobe accepts problem !Help!
*PSE6 Mac Printing Colours darker than PSE4 - Adobe accepts fault*
My work requires that when I create prints for artists I must replicate all the prints exactly everytime. It worked perfectly from PSE2, PSE3 and PSE4 but now......
I am unable to replicate quality of printing on MACOSX PSE6. it works great on PSE4. I mailed some printed images on art paper to adobe in amsterdam and a cd with the same images. After weeks of discussions phone, email and after testing using their work flow....they came back with some answers.
Finally a couple of replies from Adobe re colour problems and they have accepted that they are double managing the image and that I should use printer management to do the colour conversion.. here are their two replies and the comment that they will now drop me until???????
Answer #1 Your Customer Service Number is: 129800224 Thank you for contacting Adobe Technical Support. After consulting with my colleagues about the issue you raised, I can let you know the following: The issue is both on our as well as the driver software side and the workaround we have given is the best available at this time. This issue is affecting all printers, not just Epson or Canon. The soft proofing effect that you are seeing in the print preview is indeed an attempt at soft proofing. However since Photoshop Elements managed prints are incorrectly double colour managed it is not as useful as it was initially designed. As to the exact details of why this occurred, we have no official information. We believe that this will resolve the issues you are experiencing, however, should the reply not help solve the problem, please contact us again, quoting the case number given above, and we will re-open the case.
Answer # 2 Subject: Re: Adobe TS #180107025 / Mario / PSE6 oversaturated Print (KMM3793441I51L0KM) Dear Mr. Laugesen, We have had word back from our engineers regarding your issue. The Photoshop Elements team are aware of the problem and are working with Apple and the printer manufacturers to get this to work correctly. In the meantime, the only workaround is to switch off colour management in Photoshop Elements and let the printer handle the colour management. Unfortunately we can not make an estimation as to when a fix will be provided. We will close the case for the time being as there really is nothing more we can do about this issue besides offering the suggested workaround. Closing this case does not mean that the research will stop however and the engineers are working on a solution to this.finally fixed With PSE9
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Photos sent to Online printing service darker than on calibrated monitor
ok, I know that prints are typically darker than what is shown on the screen(with loss of detail in the shadows that was visible on the screen.) I calibrated my monitor using both the eyeone display 2 puck and coloreyes software using gama 2.2, D65, Luminance 120. (which calibrated closely to using the eyeone software. I am using a 2008 macbookpro laptop. I like the colors on the screen and I exported the files using sRGB but also checked the soft proof and both the soft proof and exported photos (in preview) looked fine.
Here are my questions. I used black point compensation, is this correct?
Also, knowing that the photos are printing darker what is the best way to compensate? Should I use the gamma adjustment on the export or should I perform an adjustment on the photo in aperture? (If in aperture which adjustment?)Can you print them yourself? How do they look?
IME, Black Point Compensation should be used (I forget why, but it is recommended).
If prints you make look right, I would bring it up with the on-line printing service. -
Objects and Images Printing Much Darker When Sent to Press
So, I'm sure this has been addressed multiple times in many other threads, but for the life of me, I can't find one that addresses my specific issues. So here goes...
When producing ads or catalog layouts with drawn objects, be it solid or gradient filled, or when adding color photos to the design, it always happens that everything turns out much darker on their end. It's frustrating and I don't know if it's something I'm not doing, or if it's something in the offset printing process... Advice would be appreciated.
I am currently using ID CS5.5, and am an intermediate to advanced user, but when it comes to color management...I'm lost.
It's disheartening sending out great ads and layouts when they come out so crappy on their end. (PS...forget about asking for proofs, cause I've asked for years on projects like mass catalog printings, and they just don't do it...so I need to work around that). Thanks guys and gals!its one of those "how long is a piece of string" questions.
as pete said, colour calibration with your monitor may be a factor, but there are many other items to consider, such as:
* the quality of the light in the room in which the monitor is in;
* whether the images being printed are beyond the max ink weight for the paper (an uncoated stock will have a lower max ink weight than a coated stock)
* what RGB-CMYK conversion is being used. to demonstrate this, try this - take an RGB pic, make it CMYK using the SNAP newsprint profile and save it as 1.tiff. then, go back to the original RGB pic and make it CMYK using the COATED FOGRA 39 profile and save it as 2.tiff. now, place both pics into indesign and go to the seps preview and compare the picture qualities side by side.
there are also issues which may be present at the printer's end, but I won't speculate as to what they may or may not be doing. instead, it is worth having a chat to your providers. Providers interested in your work normally take the time to provide as much information as they can.
it seems to me that if images are constantly coming out darker, that the max ink weights for the stocks being printed on are being exceeded. when submitting ads/prints, are you using the ink limit preview in the seps preview panel and checking it against the max ink weight suggested by the publisher or printer?
my buck o'five.
colly -
Ripped DVDs show much darker than source. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Ok, so this is not quite an ATV question (since I see the darker image when playing directly on iTunes on the Mac) but a lot of people are talking about this topic on this forum...
I've tried everything (or almost everything):
I tried Mac The Ripper + VisualHub (with the "go nuts" option)
I tried Handbrake (up to 8000kps)
I tried MediaFork (up to 8000kps)
Regadless of the framerate, options, different combinations possible on each of those applications, the image generated is considerably darker than when viewing the DVD itself. I'm happy with the rest (resolution, "smoothnes", "chopiness", "blurriness", etc.) but it's killing me that I can't "increase brightness when ripping", so to speak, in order to get something much closer to what's displayed through the DVD.
Does anybody know how to compensate for this? I've seen other people complaining of the same thing but havein't seen any suggestions yet.
Thanks and Regards,
Julian
Dual 2.7 GHz PowerPC G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2.5 Gb RAM
Dual 2.7 GHz PowerPC G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2.5 Gb RAMWould you mind sharing the settings you use (or would use) to rip a movie with the highest quality possible (i.e. quality as close to as what you see in the original DVD) but still playable by Apple TV?
Since many of my commercial DVDs are themselves only encoded in 4 to 5 Mbps range and since H.264 represents a more efficient codec than MPEG-2, I personally do no fee obligated to use video data rates equal to the original nor the maximum the profile will allow simply because it is available. I do, however, like the Context-Adaptive Variable Length Coding (CAVLC) approach of QT Pro and have adopted its "break points" as, at the very least, starting points for manual conversions. Video data rates for some popular 16:9 encode display H.264 "Main" profile formats appear to include:
720p24 (1280 x 720 @ 23.98/24 fps or 25 fps.): 5.0 Mbps
540p30 (960 x 540 @ 23.98/24 fps, 29.97/30 fps): 3.8 Mbps
480p30 (854 x 480 @ 23,98/24 fps, 29.97/30 fps): 3.0 Mbps
405p30 (720 x 405 @ 23.98/24 fps, 29,97/30 fps): 2250 Kbps
360p30 (640 x 360 @ 23.98/24 fps, 29.97/30 fps): 1850 Kbps
Usually recommend testing a 2-4 minute segment that includes a brightly lit scene/a darkly lit scene with rapid vector motion (preferably compound vector motion)/rapid transitions and then adjust the video data rate/quality (quantimizer) settings as needed. -
My document prints fine from Illustrator with the paper setting as U.S. Letter but it clips the bottom of the image. So I select "borderless 8.5 x 11" and it no longer clips the image but it prints WAY darker, from golden do a dark gray brown. Please help! Thank you!
LuMich,
Some printing colour issues are caused by an overly helpful printer driver setting causing a inappropriate colour management at printer level. I may be conceivable that such a setting is invoked when you print borderless, so it may be worth having a look at that (im)possibility.
Maybe you are looking for
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