Printer is 4 plus years old and has always worked perfectly. when I turn it on I get error message
Error message "remove and check color cartridge. I did and also cleaned it but error message persiste
Replace the cartridge with a new HP and try again.
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos Thumbs Up to the right in the post.
If my post resolved your problem, please mark it as an Accepted Solution ...
I worked for HP but now I'm retired!
Similar Messages
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my iphone 4 is almost 2 years old and has started locking up. what do i do to get it working as it used to?
Have you tried: restarting, resetting, restoring?
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My charger has stopped working, it is only a year old and has no frayed or exposed wires.
My charger is about a year old and has been working perfectly until today. It has no frayed parts or any wires exposed on it. i plugged it in and it wasn't charging and my battery icon on my monitor had an x on the inside of it and wouldn't charge. I tried again to charge it after it finally died and it didn't work, I used my mom's charger and it worked perfectly fine, so it isn't the batter that is having a problem. Has my charger just spontaneously stopped working or it is a common flaw that occours often with other users, and if so is there a soloution to fix it or get a discount on a new charger for what I am going to assume is a design flaw in the box on the charger because that is the only other thing I can think of that would be causing my charger any problems?
I had a lightbulb once. Brand new. Screwed it in its socket, lit it up. 20 minutes later it was dead. It's "brother" from the same twinpak is still shining bright almost 2 years later. Same thing here. The manufacturing process only guarantees that the mean time between failures is adequately long. But the individual units follow a probabilistic bell curve: sometimes you get one from one end and dies right off, most times you get one from the middle and lasts awhile, occasionally you get one from the other end and seems to last forever.
If you have AppleCare, it will be replaced for free. Else you will have to pay the $79 we all have. Of the 8 Mac portables I've owned, in only one did the power brick die on me. Replaced it at my cost, watched the Mac die a month later. -
My mac is one year old and has the latest os x 10.9.5. Will the older creative suite run on my mac?
Hello; I am planning on buying an older "unopened" adobe creative suite package that runs on Mac OS X v.10.2.4 through v.10.2.7. My mac is one year old and has the latest os x 10.9.5. Will the older creative suite run on my mac?
you can check other users experiences, http://roaringapps.com/apps:table
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My computer is extremely slow, with the rainbow wheel appearing with every click. It is one year old, and has all the most recent updates. Why is it so painfully slow?
That sounds horrible. There are a number of reasons it could occur.
The first thing to do is ensure you have adequate backups, because what you describe can be a symptom of impending disk failure.
To help determine the possible causes of this behaviour read the following. None of what follows is intended to fix anything, but it will provide the additional information required to advance troubleshooting. There are four separate parts to it; read everything first.
Boot OS X Recovery by holding ⌘ and r (two fingers) while you start your Mac. At the Mac OS X Utilities screen, select Disk Utility. Select your startup volume (usually named "Macintosh HD") and click the Repair Disk button. Describe any errors it reports in red. If Disk Utility reports "The volume Macintosh HD appears to be OK" in green then you can be reasonably (though not completely) assured your hard disk is in good working order.
When it finishes restart your Mac and test again for operation. If it's still not behaving as you expect it should, please post the results of EtreCheck in accordance with the following instructions:
Apple Support Communities contributor etresoft wrote a very useful app to quickly gather certain system information that may help point to a cause of this problem. Read about it here. It contains a link to download EtreCheck. Don't download it from anywhere else (such as may be found by following the results of an Internet search).
Click Open - etresoft contributes to this forum frequently and can be considered a trustworthy developer.
It will take a moment to run as it collects its data.
Copy and paste its output in a reply.
Do not be concerned about anything that says "Problem" or “failed” or anything else that may appear in red.
EtreCheck was designed to remove any personal information (such as your computer's name and serial numbers) but if you see anything that looks like an email address or any other personal information that should not be divulged to others, please delete or obscure that information when you post the reply.
When you are finished with EtreCheck, quit the program. It occupies very little space, and you can keep it or drag it to the Trash as you wish.
After completing the above please determine if the problems also occur in "Safe Mode":
Safe Mode or "Safe Boot" is a troubleshooting mode that bypasses all third party system extensions and loads only required system components. Read about it: Starting up in Safe Mode
You must disable FileVault before you can start your Mac in Safe Mode.
Starting your Mac in Safe Mode will take longer than usual, graphics will not render smoothly, audio is disabled on some Macs, and some programs (iTunes for example) may not work at all.
Merely starting your Mac in Safe Mode is not intended to resolve the problem, it's to observe its performance without certain additional components.
To end Safe Mode restart your Mac normally. Shutdown will take longer as well.
System performance problems for reasons that cannot be isolated to any other cause justify an SMC reset. Be sure to read the procedure carefully and follow all the steps exactly as written, even if they seem inapplicable or trivial. -
My macbook is five years old and has become slow. often displays the whirling kaleidoscope. can anyone please give me advice on what to do?
Quite often the HDD is the source of the problems. Look at this comprehensive guide for possible solutions:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3521
Ciao. -
My MacBook is almost two years old and has started running really slow. It gets bogged down when it is running different programs at the same time, like Safari and Pages. It didn't react this way until recently. Any advice would be very welcome.
Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive (the drive itself, not the volume icons below it.) Is the SMART status "Verified?" If not, replace the drive immediately. If the status is "Verified," the drive may still be failing. Back up all data, if you haven't already done so. Reinstall Mac OS X, then run Software Update. Test with all wired peripherals disconnected. If it's still slow, you have a hardware problem.
Mac OS X 10.6 Help: Reinstalling Mac OS X -
My keyboard failed to put accents spelling.
Through the system can not recognize the keyboard. This keyboard has one year and has always worked well and suddenly became this way, what to doHi ,
Do you remember if you have installed some software prior to this issue?
Delete programs you never use.
If the issue reoccurs in Clean Boot, but works fine in Safe Mode, the cause may be the disabled hardware drivers. You may narrow down the
causes in Device Clean Boot.
Device Clean Boot
=================
1. Click Start, type "devmgmt.msc" (without quotation marks) in the Search bar and press Enter.
2. Expand "Sound, video and game controllers".
3. Right click on your sound card and then click "Properties.
4. In the dropdown menu of Device Usage, please choose "Do not use this device (disable)" and click OK.
5. Please use the same method to disable other dubious hardware such as: internal modem, network card and CD-R drive. Please note some devices
such as video adapter are not available to be disabled.
Tracy Cai
TechNet Community Support -
My
Toshiba 1TB 2.5 inch External StorE Art HDD doesn't show up in Finder.
The light is on and it hums. Has always worked perfectly and now this. Using it on a 2010 Mac with Snow Leopard 10.6.8tried another cable (from a camera) with no joy. However after turning off TM and searching for the EHD and not finding it, I revisited Disk Utility and can 'see' it there. The bad news is that it says,
Verifying volume “Toshiba 1TB”
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Invalid extent entry
The volume could not be verified completely.
Error: This disk needs to be repaired. Click Repair Disk.
Verify and Repair volume “Toshiba 1TB”
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Invalid extent entry
The volume could not be verified completely.
Volume repair complete.Updating boot support partitions for the volume as required.Error: Disk Utility can’t repair this disk. Back up as many of your files as possible, reformat the disk, and restore your backed-up files." -
The video and sound was working on my computer two days ago (and has ALWAYS worked on my computer since purchasing it in 2010) but now for some reason I can't play video and there is no sound. I updated software today. Still sound & video not working.
Please help.One of the following steps should help.
1. Install Adobe Flash Player.
http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/
Restart computer. Relaunch Safari.
2. Enable Plug-ins
Safari > Preferences > Security
Web Content:
Click in the box for "Enable Plug-ins".
3. Check whether you are currently in YouTube HTML 5 trial.
http://www.youtube.com/html5
At the bottom left of the page uncheck the box for
"You are currently in the HTML5 trial".
4. Reset Safari.
Click Safari in the menu bar.
From the drop down select "Reset Safari".
Uncheck the boxes next to all items.
Check the box next to "Remove all website data".
Click "Reset".
5. Turn off Extensions/Plug-ins if any that may interfere with Flash working properly.
Safari > Preferences > Extensions
Best. -
I had my hard drive cleaned and cannot install cs6 master collection from disk. I am getting error message failed to initialize. please download adobe advisor support. I am using a pc and have windows 8. Please help.
start at the top and work your way down applying applicable fixes until your problem is resolved.
if cc (win): https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/kb/creative-cloud-desktop-application-failed.html
if, your error is:
"Installer failed to initialize. File not found." or "Installer failed to initialize. This could be due to missing files."
first, rename OOBE Folder to OOBE.old.
to find OOBE:
64 bit win OS: Program Files x86\Common Files\Adobe\OOBE
32 bit win OS: Program Files \Common Files\Adobe\OOBE
mac os: HD>library>application support>adobe>caps
mac os: USER>library>application support>adobe>OOB
if that fails or isn't the exact error you see, uninstall, clean (http://www.adobe.com/support/contact/cscleanertool.html) and reinstall.
if you're using a dvd to install:
copy the disc contents to a desktop directory and install from that directory.
if you're using a mac:
1. Try to Create a new user account in Mac with Administrator Priviledges.
2. Login to the New user, Navigate to Mac HD> Application> Utilities> Adobe Installer folder, Locate products like Adobe Reader, Adobe Flash, Adobe Air and un-install them
3. Navigate to User Library> Application Support> Adobe and move Adobe to Trash.
4. Navigate to Mac HD> Library> Application Support> Adobe and move Adobe to Trash.
5. Start the installation again.
if everything applicable above fails, check your installation logs:
http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop-elements/kb/troubleshoot-install-using-logs-elements.html -
trying to log into firefox but keep getting firefox is in offline mode and can't browse the web, I've unchecked the work offline in the file menu but still get error message...
The work offline option can be found from Firefox button -> Web developer or from the menubar toolbar -> Work offline (Or at least thats what happens in Windows).
Have you any other reason for being offline; router off, firefox not dialing up or whatever. Or is security software or a firewall blocking firefox, or a network connection, or firefox setting etc set wrongly.
See also
*[[cannot connect after upgrading firefox]]
*[[options window - advanced panel]]
* [[error loading web sites]] -
My 13" macbook just stopped working. When you turn it on you get a white screen and hear a repetitive clicking sound on the left side. Is this the hard drive? Any suggestions on replacement drives?
ThanksPut your install DVD into the optical drive (CD/DVD drive) and reboot. Be sure to either use the disc that came with your Mac, or, if you installed a later Mac OS X version from disc, use the newer disc. As soon as you hear the boot chime, hold down the "c" key on your keyboard (or the Option Key until the Install Disk shows up) until the apple shows up. That will force your MacBook to boot from the install DVD in the optical drive.
When it does start up, you'll see a panel asking you to choose your language. Choose your language and press the Return key on your keyboard once. It will then present you with an Installation window. Completely ignore this window and click on Utilities in the top menu and scroll down to Disk Utility and click it. When it comes up is your Hard Drive in the list on the left?
If it is, then click on the Mac OS partition of your hard drive in the left hand list. Then select the First Aid Tab and run Repair Disk. The Repair Disk button won't be available until you've clicked on the Mac OS partition on your hard drive. If that repairs any problems run it again until the green OK appears and then run Repair Permissions. After repairing use Startup Disk from the same menu to choose your hard drive for restarting from your hard drive.
If your hard drive isn’t recognized in Disk Utility then your hard drive is probably dead. -
Hi,
My MacBook Pro won't connect to the internet, although it says it is connected. The laptop is about 2 years old and up until now has worked fine. My work PC laptop is connecting to the internet fine so I know it can't be the connection. I've checked for Adware/Malware (just in case) via safemac and that all seems fine.
I'm running OSX 10.8.5.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
LizBelieve it or not, that article helped me find a temporary solution. After reading it I realized that the problem did have to do with my DNS settings. I had taken the DNS settings that my ISP gives me when I dial up and plugged them into the configuration for my AirPort card. This apparently caused a problem because, although my wireless network is always on, it's not always connected to the internet. So those DNS settings were invalid most of the time.
I found that as long as I leave the area for DNS servers blank, the computer logs in normally. This further confirms my suspicion that something was trying to access the internet at login. I guess as long as I don't specify any DNS servers, the computer realizes it doesn't have an internet connection through my AirPort card.
So I just created two network locations: one for when my network is connected to the internet and one for when it isn't. In the first, I kept my original DNS settings because they work as long as I have an internet connection. In the second I did not specify any DNS servers. This seems to work fine, but I'd still like to know what is trying to access the internet at login. I've disabled the automatic update feature in all my programs that have it, but that doesn't seem to help the slowdown at login. Does anyone know how I could figure out what program is trying to access the internet? -
My husbands ipad2 64gb 3G the screen keeps freezing. What ever you are working on stops after about 2 minutes the screen freezes and after another few moments you are required to put you password in again. It only started this morning and had been working perfectly until today. I purchased from eBay three weeks ago. If watching bbc new you can only watch for 2 minutes and same for video and games. Keeps coming back to screen saver where all icons are. Sometimes we are to use the on off button to get it going again. I set it up the same as my own iPad 32gb. Hope you can help? Thanks.
Spilled water without flavorings and especially without sugar is something from which your computer may recover. The best thing to do is to shut off as quickly as possible and remove the battery pack. Place the computer in a sunny window with the lid open to promote evaporation of the water. On top of a refrigerator is also a warm perch that'll promote drying. It is difficult to say exactly how long it takes to dry the computer; that depends on ambient temperature and humidity, and how how water is in there.
The biggest threat from the water is corrosion of metal parts, so drying quickly is a must. Also, water can form mineral salt deposits that can grow conductive dendrites between adjacent traces on printed circuit boards. The formation of dendrites is aggravated if you apply power before the machine is dried out. The worst damage would be if water managed to get in the breather hole of the hard drive - luckily, the way the drive is mounted, that would be fairly unlikely.
Bill
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