Printing pictures , skin tones are not correct. not printing fine

RESOLUTION:
select the:
PRINT>>PRINT JOB>>PRINT JOB>>PRINT TO>> JPEG FILE
IT WILL WORK FINE.
FOR PERMANENT SOLUTION WITH OTHER IMAGES AS WELL:
DOWNLOAD ADOBE RGB 1998 color profile
FROM THE LINK:
http://www.adobe.com/digitalimag/adobergb.html
INSTALL IT AND THEN GOTO:
PRINT>>PRINT JOB>>COLOR MANAGEMENT>>PROFILE>>OTHER>>ADOBE RGB1998.

The OP is providing bad information. The post and advice should be ignored!

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Printing from Lightroom (CCS) on a PC and my skin tones are coming out a lot redder than they should.

I am printing from lightroom on an Epson Stylus Pro R2880 on my PC.
Overall, my colors have been fine. Not perfect, but good enough for what I'm doing.
But, I have noticed that my skin tones are coming out extremely red/pink.
1) How do I fix this?
2) How do I optimize my colors so that my prints come out as close as possible to what my computer shows me?
Thanks!

Hi there!
It's a known problem. I solved it by going through an advanced profiling method. I described it here in detail: ColorChecker: How to get PERFECT skin colors with every camera - Hans van Eijsden Photography
Warning: advanced stuff. But once you got it covered and once you calibrated your printer, it's a big time saver. Good luck.
-Hans

My 6500a prints very small, there are no settings in printer pref. that allow enlargement

my 6500a prints very small, there are no settings in printer pref. that allow enlargement

Hello MartyTheArtist,
May I know you installed Basic Print Driver or Full Feature Software?
I am not holding 7110 printer but I have access officejet 6700 and Photosmart 7510.
Anyway, you should able to see the similar print options if you did install full feature software.
When you print, under the print advance options, there is an option called. "HP Real life Technologies". You may on this option and it will "automatically remove redeye in photographs and to automatically adjust high-contrast photos to reveal details that are otherwise lost in shadows. I have attached the screen shot for your reference."
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c01072230
I am an amteur photographer and personally, I do prefer to do post processing jobs in Photoshop first and then use the printer just to print by choosing the apporopirate photopaper and using Best Mode.
May be you might have differnet preferences way of doing it. I am just sharing my way of printing photos
By the way, when you install Full Feature Software, you have the option to install HP Photo Creation Software which is very simple and easy to create greeting cards, photo books and many other things. Maybe you might give it a try if you have not tried.
Kindly let us know if you have more queries
Cheers,
Bryan
*I am an HP employee*
** Please click "Accept as Solution" if it solved your problem, so others can find it **
***Give Kudos to say "Thanks" by clicking on the thumbs up button under my name***

Hello Community...Macbook w 10.6.8 and I need printing help. Using three canon photo printers of same model and need them to print individually. They are older and NOT network-able. Currently using another Mac to print to 2nd printer. 3 is idle.

Is there software available where all I have to do is hit print and any of the 4x6 printers will print? Once I get this issue settled, I'll get a second larger format. I have to get this rectified because of time and ease. As mentioned, I have a second mac that I share screens with so my assistant can find pics for customers while I'm shooting. So, I can print through that mac to the printer. (ie....print to canon@##%#@Mac 2) I don't want to bring a third computer just to print to three of the same model printer. (That's what I've been doing) BTW....I totally know there are faster dye-sub printers out there but I'm about 4 more events from purchasing one...($$$) Some print under 10 seconds. I would appreciate any answers out there. Thank you.

I don't have that printer and I'm not on Mac, so someone else has to step in there. Generally a green/magenta cast indicates none/double printer color management. But then I don't know what you mean by "slight".
The Spyders aren't the most consistent and reliable calibrators out there. I had a Spyder 3 sensor that I just threw away because it gave a distinct red cast (I have several other calibrators, so there was no doubt). Another potential problem is that with most calibrators you can only adjust the white point along the blue/yellow Kelvin scale, but not on the green/magenta scale. This is often necessary to get a good white point color. In this case you need to use the monitor's OSD controls, and if possible the "pre-calibration" function in the calibrator to measure and monitor it - if that function exists. And I don't know if this is possible with an iMac.
This is basically a question of getting the white point right, both on the blue/yellow and the green/magenta axis (and luminance of course). The goal is to get a visual match to paper white on screen. With the white point properly set, neutral color balance relates to that, and the rest more or less follows by itself. (In addition you should set the proper black point/contrast for full control, but that's not the issue here).

I am trying to print Ticketek ezytickets. Only the barcode is printing but the tickets are blank. Not sure what else to do. Please help

i am unable to print Ticketek ezytickets. Only the barcode is printing correctly But the tickets are blank

What is your operating system? Reader version?
Is this a local or online PDF? If online, in what browser?

Printed picture's colors are different

Hi,
I just purchased a HP Deskjet Ink Advantage 6525 printer for printing some photos. I open an image in photoshop, then I press print. I have the following settings:
The result is very poor. The colors are dark, like a photo from instagram. My monitor is a SAMSUNG S24C750P. Photoshop version CS6 (osx).
I would like to know what's the correct setup for printing photos.
I really appreciate your help, this is very confusing.

You're not supposed to use sRGB as print profile. What you want is a paper/ink profile for the specific paper you're printing on (HP whatever glossy/matte and so on). These profiles are provided by the printer manufacturer and normally installed along the printer driver.
But I don't think HP does that, in the interest of "simplifying" things for the customer. Check to see what profiles are available (but I expect there won't be any paper profiles there). So in that case you can't let Photoshop Manage Color, you have to pick the other option and let the printer handle it.
I've never been able to figure HP out. They actually make very good hardware, but their philosophy seems to be that their customers are completely illiterate and need hand-holding every step.

Pictures in iBook are partial/missing not displaying correctly

I downloaded new iBook called "Foundation" and the pictures are incomplete/partial/missing. Tried deleting the book and re-downloading and still same problem. Some pictures are complete, some partial and some just have a question mark inside a blue box (where the picture is supposed to be i am guessing). There are also pages that have a large pink box that says ... "This page contains the following errors: error on line 1 at column 1: Ending error. Below is a rendering of the page up to the first error." I could live without the pictures but this is an exercise book and the pictures are very important! Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Christopher. After I posted my original question, I did come to realize that it was Helvetica not Future PT showing. Here’s what happened, and here’s why I still need some guidance…
The document dropped Future PT because when my wifi signal dropped, the Creative Cloud app displayed this error symbol (see graphic) in my menu bar.
At that point, my computer could no longer access my TypeKit fonts and the document reverted to the system's Helvetica default.
This was not an isolated incident.
If I turn wifi off manually, there is no issue and CC continues to operate in the background as it should, with TypeKit fonts still available.
However, if the wifi drops out on its own, I get the above error symbol and I then lose access to my TypeKit fonts. Very rarely, the CC app will self-correct when the signal is restored. More often than not, I must quit the CC app and relaunch it in order to get things back to normal.
This doesn’t strike me as normal behavior Have you ever encountered anything like it? Do you know of a fix that will allow the CC app to self-correct when the wifi signal is restored?
Any assistance will be appreciated!
Thanks!
P.S. TypeKit troubleshooting doesn’t address this particular issue.

Colors are mismatched between photo and printed output. The printed output's tones are off.

This is an HP Photosmart Plus B210A printer.
I have almost-new print cartridges installed (correctly).
I have done a print quality test and the test page seems to be very good.
The paper I'm using is high-quality photo print paper.
I'm using quality setting of 'best'.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

If it is not a hardware issue, then go into the printers folder, right click on your printer, then select properties. Select the color management tab, you can adjust colors from there.
This document below would apply to the hardware end of it:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02142902&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=4021935&tmp...
007OHMSS
I was a support engineer for HP.
If the advice resolved the situation, please mark it as a solution. Thank you.

How to print without yellow toner cartridge in a laser printer hp CP1215. I broke yellow cartridge.

I accidentally broke the yellow cartridge of my brand new Laser Printer hp CP1215. I want to just use only other colors like magenta and cyan etc. But the printer is not printing at all because there is no yellow cartridge.
Is there a way out to print using other colors like magenta or cyan? I want to do only text typing (highlighting) using these colors. I am using Windows 7 Ultimate and hp Color Laser Printer CP1215.
I want to highlight some text using magenta or cyan to show important points. I want to use black, magenta and cyan colors for text. Changing settings to print only black and white cannot do this.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi RaoPN,
Sorry you feel this way. Far as i am aware most color laserjet printer producted in the market today are designed to work with all the cartridges installed.
I am an HP employee.
Say Thanks by clicking the Kudos Star in the post that helped you.
Please mark the post that solves your problem as "Accepted Solution"

Standard text displayed correctly in print preview but not in print

Hi,
I have a script in which a standard text has to be printed in the output.
The standard text contains some german characters.
These characters are displayed correctly in print preview but not in print.
The text is maintained in 3 languages DE,EN and Russian.
The same text is being printed in some standard report. But that is displayed correctly both in print and print preview.
Please suggest something.
Regards,
Richa Aggarwal

Hi Richa,
Check this document from SAP: [help doc|http://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/go/portal/prtroot/docs/library/uuid/f0652a95-5f0b-2a10-5aba-c085f8bbe6d6?QuickLink=index&overridelayout=true]
It indicates that you have to be sure to select "Unicode" fonts for your SAPScript form to ensure the proper printing of "Unicode" characters. If a character does not display then that means it does not exist in the font that you are using.
Regards,
Ryan Crosby

Printing pictures via bluetooth to a bluetooth printer that is not online

i was wondering if iphone will be able to send a picture or file to a bluetooth printer that is not online i'm out in the field alot and need to print pictures right there i have a bluetooth printer in my van. my old phone would send via bluetooth and i could give customer the pic at that time instead of having to bring them back to the customer. please advise
thank you
jimski3332002

I suppose that would depend on the model of the printer, some print companies provide apps for wireless printing to certain models. But if the printer isn't online and you're looking for a BlueTooth only type of connection, it still may be a good idea to check out the app store to see if the makers of your particular printer have written an app making it possible for you to do so.

Having trouble getting skin tones to print "accurately"

Hello! This is my first post to a forum, but I am unhappy with the skintones of my portrait shots in the printed results and am driven to seek your collective help. I realize that an image on the monitor will never match exactly to the printed image because the media is entirely different. I am pleased with the image results for everything except the human skintones. Portrait shots can look great on the monitor, but the printed image always has a greenish cast. This happens when shooting outdoors in sunlight and on overcast days. No flash was used.
I am shooting RAW (uncompressed NEF), using Nikkor lenses on a D200. My printer is an EPSON Stylus Photo 2200. Mac Pro 2x2.66 GHz Dual-Core Intel Xeon processor. RadeonX1900 graphics card. Apple Cinema 24" Display calibrated with SpyderPRO. Epson Premium Glossy Photo paper. Aperture 1.5.3. Lately I have been using a 105mm, 2.8, VR Nikkor lens or the 17-55mm, 2.8 Nikkor lens. (I think I have all the right equipment, now if I could only fix the user!)
I notice that Aperture has default setting applied to my images in RAW Fine Tuning and the Boost is always set to 1.00. Chroma Blur Radius=2.00 and Auto Noise Redution is checked. Sharpening Intensity=0.5 and Edges-0.73.
My in camera white balance is set to full sun. Aperture white balance temparature comes in at 4860K.
What is the Boost and if I change it to 0.00, the skin tones are not as saturated and reddish in the display, but the printed image has a greenish cast. Should I be changing this value at all?
I see that other folks post fabulous portrait images on the web with lovely creamy skin tones, but I can never achieve that effect. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance for any help you folks can send my way.

The Boost slider under the Raw Fine Tuning change the contrast of the image. I set it up to be 0.80 as default, sometimes I lower it even more. Then I use the controls under the exposure section to adjust the exposure and contrast. I finish it with the levels adjustments.
It's very easy to get reddish faces when the contrast is to high. If that's the case in the color adjustments I lower the saturation of the reds a little bit and move the slider of the hue a little bit to the right, usually a value of 2.0 is enough to make them more orangy.
It's crucial that you set up the white balance properly. A grey card is a great help to have a neutral tone in the image, then I usually go a bit warmer, around 200-300K more than neutral.

The clock is not correct (ten minutes) - iPhone

The clock is not correct (not an hour but ten minutes). That was for several weeks.

Are you using auto to set the time or manual. Auto takes the time from your cellular carrier's towers. Does the time change as you travel around town?

Photosmart Premium C10a pictures are automatically corrected?

This printer is brand new so all new printer cartridges are installed. I have been trying to print pictures that have vibrant colors and the printer (I'm assuming) is changing the colors such as lime green to aqua. It also is bumping up all the colors so dark pinks are red, lighter greens are darker, etc. How do I turn this "feature" off?

Oops, it's a C310a.
Also, operating system is Windows 7.

Skin tones in LR

Skin tones in LR often seem to look pasty and flat. I've been reading Lee Varis's book "Skin", and in it he says Caucasian skin tones should have a roughly equal amount of yellow and magenta (with yellow between 1 and 10 points higher) and about 1/4 to 1/3 the amount of cyan.
Most of the pictures I take of Caucasians and import into LR actually have yellow as the lowest value, with magenta and cyan being roughly equal. These skin tones look pale and somewhat pasty:
When I adjust this same image in Photoshop using Lee Varis's method, I get the following results:
Even though the numbers are "correct" in the second version, I think it has gone too far in the other direction.
In any event, I'd like to know 1) if others have the same problem with the way skin tones appear in LR, 2) if you have found a good way of color correcting for skin in LR without exporting to PS. I'd like to get the color as accurate as possible in LR so I don't have to edit every image in Photoshop.
Thanks.

I am a pro, I shoot primarily for magazines in my area, have been doing so for over 10 years now. I shoot A LOT of people. Here are my thoughts for you:
1) The top photo was shot in an open shade area, this creates a color balance/temperature problem. It is too blue for a daylight setting, yet not blue enough for a cloudy setting.
2)Using a whibal or other reference card for skin tones is very hit or miss. They will give you a very accurate balance of rgb values, but rarely if ever give the most pleasing skin tones. It is a good stating point however, especially for large groups with mixed ethnicity.
3) BY the numbers is a good way to go, I have used it often, since learning it way back in the 90's. However I hardly ever work with in the cmyk color space. There for I have adopted the numbers for use in an RGB space.
Here are my numbers for Caucasian skin tones. This was averaged off of 7 different samples in varying lighting conditions. This is also based on LR's rgb 0-100 scale:
Green Should be 11% lower than Red
and Blue should be 13% lower than green
Example R-------------G ----------- B
84.6---------78.1----------71.2
60.3---------52.5----------40.8 measured in shadow
78.8--------- 70.2---------60.3
87.2--------- 80.5--------- 74.9
78----------- 70.2 ---------64.7
With the exception of the shadow reading above, each came from a slightly different Caucasian skin tone....
Also skin tones are going to change wildly based on shooting conditions. You almost can not make a preset for skin tones unless you shoot in a controlled studio environment and shoot the exact same way each time.
Other wise best advice I can give it to use the above number samples as a guide and learn to "see" skin tones. After you "See" them than you will not need the numbers any longer, because you will know what feels right.
I also tend to back the vibrance slider down 1 or 2 notches if skin tone is very important to the image, but I am sure that is due to me shooting a D60
Also...Every skin color under the sun can be balanced by the numbers once you know the percentages.....experiment with white balance and hsl until you find what looks right for THAT person.

Printing pictures , skin tones are not correct. not printing fine

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