Problem configuring msi 11g wirelless broadband router to emule allways gives lo

can anyone help me to configure mi router to use emule i´ve allways get low id
i have an msi wireless 11G broadband router

you need to open up the TCP/UDP ports that emule uses in your router configuration page

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Problems with 3 Wireless-G Broadband Router with SpeedBooster

I bought 3 Wireless-G Broadband Routers with speedboost.
They all had problems. After buying a second one, I figured the first one had a defect. Then I had more problems. Is this just more bad luck? Then I bought the third one, and still had problems, especially with the program it had me install on the pcs I had at home. It just wouldn't keep a connection. Then, most of the time I had to restart the router.. Shame, I thought to myself... I wondered if linksys knew about this router and its problems.. I even tried to upgrade the firmware, and it only had problems after that on one of the routers. I just got a complaint from one of my friends about the router. I had a feeling I knew what it was once she told me the problem it had. Then I asked her the type a router it was. "Linksys" she told me and I told her my story with 3 bad routers. . It was weird..
Oh, well, hopefully linksys will look it up and see what is up with the product. Buying the 3 same routers and them not working was a little weird. At least it wasn't working the way it should have.
That is all from me.. I know this is a serious post, so reply all that want to.

What you want to do is set up your wireless security. The routers setup page
(192.168.1.1) can only be accessed IF someone can get on your wireless network first. Of course, you want to change this password to something other than 'admin' anyway. This you can do by accessing the administration tab in the setup pages of the router by going here to see how it is done.
Now, you want to secure your wireless network by going here.

Wireless-B Broadband Router(BEFW11S4) Problem

I bought a Wireless-B Broadband Router(BEFW11S4) from someone but it didn't came with the CD is there another way to install it like a driver or something like that

There is no "driver" for your router. Your router has firmware that resides on a flash memory chip in the router. Check your router to see which version of the router you have. This should be listed on the bottom of the router, near the serial number.
To setup your router:
First, download the User Guide from the Linksys web site:
http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Content_C1&childpagename=US%2FLayout&cid=1115416835852&...
Next, reset the router to factory defaults (see the User Guide for directions).
Then go to Linksys.com > Support > Technical Support > EasyLink Home Networking Tools > then use EasyLink Connect to configure your router.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 10-07-2007 05:36 AM

Problem in configuring IPv6 interface with default Router lifetime.

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I'm also see an unusual behavior that even after configuring accept_rtadv=0,
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Mac OS 9 does not support IPv6. While you can have IPv6 on your network, a Macintosh running Mac OS 9.2.2 or earlier cannot make connections to services using this network protocol.
To use IPv6 on a Macintosh, you need Mac OS X 10.1 or later (as far as I know).
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alekurkova wrote:
I have one BROADBAND ROUTER TENDA W311R, but I can not make the right configuration to use it.
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That router cannot be used with ADSL, only Infinity, provided you have an Openreach modem.
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
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Without examining this in detail, it is only half of the equation. The other end of the tunnel needs to be configured as well. BTW, don't ever post your WAN IP and shared key in a public forum. Change the key.

I need help to configure new wrt300n wireless and broadband router

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you have a cable modem?
if so you need to reboot the cablemodem so it will see the mac address of the new device your adding to the network.
if you have ADSL we shall take it a stage further.
Regards Simon
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BEFW11S4 Wireless-B Broadband Router Issues

I have been having issues with my router lately. It is a Linksys BEFW11S4 - Wireless-B Broadband Router. It has the latest firmware and everything which was from like, April of 2005 since this is an older router model. I've had it for about 3 years now and have had no problems until this past week. I have Verizon DSL. Anyway, my network connection seems to fail every so often at least 6 times a day at random times. I use WEP security encryption and everything. Every time it fails, I have to reset the router and go into administrator configurations and retype the password then it starts working again. But it is annoying since I just lose connection for no reason when I'm in the middle of something. Even when it fails, it does not indicate that I lost connection or that my connection is weak. It says that the signal is still excellent all the time even when it stopped working and the Internet light is still on. Odd. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong or is it time for me to buy a Wireless-G router instead and hope that fixes the problem? Again, I have had no issues with the router and it has been working great for nearly 3 years until this past week and I did nothing to mess with it. Maybe is it just that the hardware is worn-out? I dunno, I just want this problem solved.

YouCanfindUs wrote:
Bad DMZ + Portscan = Reboot. I’ve noticed that a portscan will cause the router to reboot if you have a bad DMZ host specified in the DMZ settings. The “Dummy DMZ” is a known method for stealthing Linksys routers, but apparently doesn’t work due to this problem. This problem has been confirmed on the DSLReports discussion board as a problem thats been around for a while, not just in 1.39.2. I’ve found that even with a valid DMZ host, a portscan will sill hose the router. If you turn on the “daignostic logging” (see hidden features section), you can see log entries that say [HH:MMS] Free=xxx, where xxx is getting smaller and smaller until it resets. (Note: this happened with default filtering settings, no spi, block wan, etc)
UDP Traffic Can Cause Reboot. In much the same way as the DMZ problem, sending large amounts of UDP traffic can hose the wireless interface. I used QCheck to send 1mBit of information in 10 seconds from a desktop (wired) to a laptop (wireless). You can see the [HH:MMS] Free=xxx decline. When it gets to 0, the wireless interface activity light goes solid and the router locks. This bug hasn’t been confirmed yet on any message board or newsgroup. (Note: this happened with default filtering settings, no spi, block wan, etc)
hmmm..just curious what model number are you referring to? Is it BEFW11S4 ver 1 or 2???
Yesterday is history. Tomorrow is mystery. Today is a gift.

Airport Express not working when used with Broadband Router **HELP!!!**

Hello.
I have an ethernet network in my house, and I am connected to the network via a Linksys router for Broadband VOIP and internet. I am on a G5 in my home office and want to stream music to my Airport Express for my home stereo in the living room, via the ethernet connection.
The problem is that when using the router in my network, only the Admin Utility sees the base station-- iTunes does not.
If I remove the router from the equation altogether and plug the network ethernet cable directly into the G5, the AX in the other room works just fine and I can get internet on the G5 in the office. The problem is that I need the router to operate my Vonage VOIP phone service and to connect a second computer to the internet as well. The IP address for the router in the home office is "192.168.x.xxx" and when I try moving it to the living room and connecting the AX to it, the Admin Asst doesn't see the AX at all.
When I connect the router to the network in the office, I can use internet on both computers and the VOIP phone service, and the AX Admin Asst. sees the base station from the other room. But again, iTunes does not.
Is there a way to configure the router to see the AX?
Thanks for your help!

Forgive me if this a little off thread, but I have just managed to get this to work and thought it might help people with similar configuration issues (mix manufacturer wireless networks)
I received an Airport Express (FW v. 6.3) for Christmas this year. I already am using a D-Link DI-524 wireless(G) router (Rev A FW 1.03) for my Comcast cable modem in my house (downstairs). What I wanted to do is to add the Airport Express in my office upstairs to my network (client mode) so that I could print from my HP Deskjet 3740 printer and listen to iTunes on my stereo through Airtunes. I have two iBooks (G3) with regular (802.11b) airport cards in them) running Tiger.
I ran into a couple of snags though. I could see the printer in Rendezvou and I could see the airport express in iTunes. I however could not print to the printer or connect to the speakers. I was able to connect to the speakers very intermittenly and then the audio would be disrupted every few seconds.
After a bit of hacking, what I found is that it seems that WPA PSK security doesn't work between the two. I changed the security to 128 bit WEP (ASCII mode). This means that you need an exactly 13 character pass phrase. This is necessary because Apple (and pretty much only Apple) supports 40 bit WEP (5 chars) and D-Link (and the rest of the Windows wireless universe) supports 64 bit WEP (7 chars), but they both support 128 bit WEP. I assume you could set both up as an open network if you were far enough from your neighbors, but I am in a townhouse complex, so I thought I probably better have some security on the network.
Now I only see one network (the one set up on my D-Link router) and I can print to my printer and stream to my stereo through iTunes (without disruption). Seems to work seemlessly now.
I should also mention that I did about three other things. I moved the LAN subnet on the D-link router to 192.168.1.1 (DHCP client address are now between 1.100 and .1.200) I had heard that this was necessary since both routers tried to use the 192.168.0 subnet, but I think this is only necessary in relay mode. I also statically assigned the IP address for the Airport Express. Finally I set up a firewall rule of Source WAN/LAN IP addresses of 192.168.1.100-200 of any protocol from ports 1-20000 to the same destination address range should be allowed to allow for all LAN traffic to be passed. I am very certain this is unnecessary and possible dangerous for security, but I thought I should mention that I did it.
Hope this might help someone.
Michael
iBook G3 (600 MHz) Mac OS X (10.4.3) D-Link DI-524 Router. Motorola Surfboard Cable Modem. Comcast Broadband

Express to Broadband router via ethernet cable

I need to confirm something. I would like to purchase an Express 802.11n to set up a faster internet connection for my wife's MacBook, it can use the enabler. I have a fast FIOS internet connection (20/10). Can I connect the Express to my broadband router via an ethernet cable and will my wife see the speed difference? I have done a few speed checks and the 802.11g Airport network peaks out at about 7 mps. I expect to see her machine peak at about 15 mps if configured as a 802.11n only network. Is this about right? I would still have to suffer with the slower network, but us men do crazy things for love.
Mark

If your wife's MacBook is connected directly via Ethernet to the FiOS router does it show a connection faster than 7 Mbps? If not, changing the wireless interface isn't going to help anything.
If she does get the full 20 Mbps via Ethernet then switching to 802.11n might getter her a faster wireless data transfer.

WRVS4400N with Sky Broadband router

Hi
I recently purchased WRVS4400N. Though I am having problems trying to configure the WRVS4400N to work with my ISP's (Sky Broadband) router which in essence is a customised Netgear router.
Basically I want the WRVS4400N to handle all networking aspects such as WiFi, DHCP etc and for the ISP's supplied router to handle just the internet connection. So far I have switched the ISP's WiFi off, turned off DHCP though unable to get the correct setting on the WRVS4400N to use just the internet connection. Any help with trying to set this up would be good ?
Thanks
Andrew

I believe that the WRVS4400N router is one of the latest high end wireless router from Linksys, it has Wireless N capability, DHCP, and VPN. If you just want to use this router for DHCP and Wireless, you can just use the default settings in which DHCP and Wireless were enable by default. I also remeber that the default IP address of this router is 192.168.1.1 in which you can be able to access the configuration page for settings modification.
Message Edited by aponikikay on 08-04-2009 02:47 PM

Airport Express not connecting to Broadband router

Dear Apple lovers,
I have been stuck with an issue for the past few weeks, and i hope that your experience can help me sort out the connectivity issues.
Infrastructure:
Telco-provided Broadband modem router provides the internet connectivity. it connects to the house rooms thru data points.
I have an Extreme setup as a extender to the broadband router (becuase the rooms are far way from the broadband router, i have to do extend the wireless..)
The Extreme has been working fine for the past 2 years, even after the broadband modem router has been upgraded.
However, the Express started giving problems as soon as the broadband modem router was replaced.
I have tried resetting the Express many times, i've tried creating a new Network (they ask for PPOE settings which creates endless loops), creating it as an extender to the Broadband and even to the Extreme. So i've tried all options, and i'm not sure where to start looking for answers (searched this forum many times..)
Issue is that the Express is the furthest away from the Broadband, and if the room doors are closed, the Express has to rely on the Ethernet connection to the broadband for connectivity. Which makes me think that the right installation option to choose is " set up as an extender to Broadband modem" Is this correct?
With the doors closed, the express cant reach the extreme too (extreme is in another room).
I have an iMac, iPhone and iPod that has been suffering from no WiFi for the past month.. we're like in rehab for Internet addiction.. Hope there's a kind soul out there who can point out the right direction to follow (chose which option), or to diagnose the problem, and eventually solve it.
There's also intermittent issues with setting up the express, it just cant be configured. But it still blinks orange and green(sometimes). So i dont think the express needs to be changed..
Thanks in advance for the help ( if any.. )
Have a nice day!

I didn't understand how you had the setup and configuration.
You have a modem router combination device that is creating a wireless network, an AirPort Extreme that is extending the wireless network, and an AirPort Express that is also extending the network?

Linksys wireless N broadband router getting disconnected frequently

I have a linksys wireless N broadband router which is connected to 3560 switch. My problem is that my linksys keep on disconnecting but my campus network is working nicely. But hosts which are connected to linksys are not getting access properly when i logged into the linkys and i do ip release and renew it gets connected and after some time its disconnected again i logged into the linkys and again i do ip release and renew then its get connected again. I have been doing same to get internet access.
Linkys gets ip through our DHCP server.
I have reset the Linksys as well but still facing the same problem.
Note-Our campus network is working fine only problem is with linkys.
Thanks in Advance
Khem

If your using a WinXP you can download the tool that will automatically configure your router. Click here for the tool, then select Easylink Connect

Will my Lenovo W510 WiFi work with a 2.4:5Ghz Netgear N600 WNDR3400 dual-band home broadband router?

My first post ever ... so please be gentle with me.
BACKGROUND:
1. I'm considering a new router to replace my Linksys WRT54G.
2. The Netgear N600 WNDR3400 dual-band home broadband router has a simultaneous 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz AP capability.
3. While I know my Lenovo W510 WiFi works fine at 2.4 Ghz (802.11G), my question is:
QUESTION:
Q: Will my Lenovo W510 laptop wireless card connect at 5Ghz?
NOTES:
Note: The OS is Centos 6.3 Linux (x86_64).
Note: I'm not sure how to tell you WHICH wireless card I have, so I googled and tried this command:
$ /sbin/lspci -knn | grep -i network
WHICH REPORTED:
00:19.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Intel Corporation 82577LM Gigabit Network Connection [8086:10ea] (rev 06)
03:00.0 Network controller [0280]: Intel Corporation Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 [8086:4238] (rev 35)
$ /sbin/lspci -nn -s 03:00.0
WHICH REPORTED:
03:00.0 Network controller [0280]: Intel Corporation Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 [8086:4238] (rev 35)
$ /sbin/lspci -vv -s 03:00.0
WHICH REPORTED:
03:00.0 Network controller: Intel Corporation Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 (rev 35)
   Subsystem: Intel Corporation Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 3x3 AGN
   Control: I/O- Mem+ BusMaster+ SpecCycle- MemWINV- VGASnoop- ParErr- Stepping- SERR+ FastB2B- DisINTx-
   Status: Cap+ 66MHz- UDF- FastB2B- ParErr- DEVSEL=fast >TAbort- <TAbort- <MAbort- >SERR- <PERR- INTx-
   Latency: 0, Cache Line Size: 64 bytes
   Interrupt: pin A routed to IRQ 32
   Region 0: Memory at f2000000 (64-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=8K]
   Capabilities: <access denied>
   Kernel driver in use: iwlwifi
   Kernel modules: iwlwifi
$ /sbin/modinfo iwlwifi
WHICH REPORTED (edited):
filename:       /lib/modules/2.6.32-279.5.1.el6.x86_64/kernel/drivers/net/wireless/iwlwifi/iwlwifi.ko
alias:          iwlagn
description:    Intel(R) Wireless WiFi Link AGN driver for Linux
... stuff ...
parm:           11n_disable:disable 11n functionality (int)
parm:           5ghz_disable:disable 5GHz band (default: 0 [enabled]) (bool)
... stuff ...

As an update, I bought the WNDR3400v2 router and am supremely disappointed with its lack of power - but - the Lenovo W510 DOES work perfectly fine connecting to both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz radios.
The problem is the signal strength only twenty feet away up one floor is dismal (as compared to what it was with the ancient Linksys WRT54G for example).
What bothers me is that Netgear goes to great lengths to hide the power output of the radio so I 'suspect' that it is anemic and I don't (yet anyway) suspect the radio on the W510 laptop. Netgear support would only tell me the EIRP at 2.4GHz is 20dBm, and at 5GHz it's double that. So I can only assume the power output from that. If I assume a 5dBi antenna gain for both frequencies, that results in a power output guesstimate of 15dBm (32mW) at 2.4GHz and double that at, i.e., 18dBm or 64mW, at 5GHz.
The other side of the equation, of course, is the power & gain of the W510 radio & antenna.
Do we have specs for the W510 power output & antenna gain (e.g., a typical laptop is about 50mW (roughly 15 to 18 dBm) pushed into an antenna with a gain of about 1/2 dBi to about 1 dBi at best, regardless of what the specification sheet intimates)?

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

Problem configuring msi 11g wirelless broadband router to emule allways gives lo

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