Problem with MSI P45 Platinum DDR2 mainboard and Corsair Dominator PC8500C5D Ram

Hi, I have encountered with a problem.
First I had
MSI p45 platinum ddr2 bios ver. 1,4
Intel E8400
Corsair Dominator PC8500C5D 2x1Gb
2 Asus ATI EAH 3870 Crossfire
and it was running with windows XP without any problems.
Problems began when I decided to upgrade to 6Gb of ram and to install Vista 64. Ram modules witch I bought are the same Corsair Dominator PC8500C5D, but 2x2GB.
When i put them together adjust voltage 2.1v and timing 5-5-5-15 they fail mem test with huge amount of errors.
when I test only 2x2gb modules memtest sometimes doesn't open at all, sometimes just stops working on 8 minutes of test. couple of times they completed memtest without any errors.
Can someone advice what should I do and what could the problem?
Thank you for your answers.

Quote from: obsessed on 15-October-08, 18:20:44
Corsair Dominator PC8500C5D 2x1Gb
Problems began when I decided to upgrade to 6Gb of ram and to install Vista 64. Ram modules witch I bought are the same Corsair Dominator PC8500C5D, but 2x2GB.
1) the modules are not the same (the DDR2 chips are different)
2) as general rule, mixing 2x1GB with 2x2GB is a bad idea.
cheers

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Hi again!
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MSI P45 Platinum official v1.5 bios
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================================
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================================
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================================
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================================
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================================
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ICH Voltage: 1.52v
================================
Spread Spectrum: Disabled
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thanks for the tip. i'm currently logging all my OC settings in an excel file. i just finished played an hour of COD4 without any restarts or instability. currently my settings are just the same except CPU voltage is at 1.344v and i reduced my Dram voltage to 2.0v. running memtest for over an hour, 2 passes already with no errors. i'll stress test it over the weekend.
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hello friends,
I want to ask question about MSI P45 Platinum motherboard. MSI P45 Platinum Motherboard support DDR3 Ram or not.
I am very confuse.

Read here for specs P45 Platinum.
http://global.msi.eu/index.php?func=prodmbspec&maincat_no=1&cat2_no=170&cat3_no=&prod_no=1479#menu
5th line from top, DDR2 800/1066/1200.
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Regards

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Try to push the onboard-power-on button and see if that changes anything.
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Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
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Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

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Quote from: Jack t.N. on 20-May-09, 03:16:19
Only, if you set the controller to AHCI Mode (which would not really be a problem either). You probably won't need any additional drivers when the controller is working in IDE Mode.
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ftp://driver.jmicron.com.tw/jmb36x/Win2k_xp_Vista/
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Quote from: flink on 30-April-09, 13:56:54
i'm sure the hole for the cmos clear button in the i/o shield is the problem. the button is pressed by the i/o shield and your pc won't start.
a well known problem.
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Problem with MSI P45 Platinum DDR2 mainboard and Corsair Dominator PC8500C5D Ram

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