Problems With Aluminum Keyboard and My Macbook

Hello! Recently I've been having major issues with my newly acquired Apple Aluminum Keyboard... It has been staggering and lagging A lot and also a few key's are failing to work on the keyboard (d and s just to name a few)
I'm wondering if anyone knows if this is Software or Hardware related issue? If anyone could help please reply back =]
Cheers,
Hamish

Call Apple support.
If the problem is hardware they will exchange the defective keyboard with a new one.

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I have a problem with the keyboard on my MacBook. The letters are typing as symbols and the delete and return/enter buttons do not work. Does anybody know how to fix this?

I have a problem with the keyboard on my MacBook. The letters are typing as symbols and the delete and return/enter buttons do not work. Does anybody know how to fix this?

Hey skyshade13,
Thanks for the question. The following article outlines how to restore a previous iTunes library should there be no content after updating. While the article does not speak specifically to your symptoms, attempting the steps by utilizing the "Previous iTunes Libraries" folder may resolve your issue.
No content shows up in iTunes after updating
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1967
For further information see the following information:
OS X Lion: iTunes opens to "created by a newer version" alert
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3918
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http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1451
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Matt M.

[K8N NEO3-F] Problem with USB keyboard and PS2 mouse after upgrading BIOS

Hello everyone!
I have upgraded BIOS from 1.1 to 1.4... I have Sempron 2600 (64bit) so BIOS v.1.1 did not recognise it.
The motherboard works, but after upgrading I have a small problem with my keyboard and mouse.
When I use USB keyboard my PS2 mouse doesn't work. When I connect PS2 keyboard mouse works!!!
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Thanks, bartull@
PS. Does BIOS v.1.3 recognise Sempron 64bit? Can you give me a link to it?

I think that the problem may have been caused by flashing either with liveupdate or with winflash. I had the problem when i used winflash correctly (shutting down all programs, checking all the boxes to clear bootblock and cmos) but had usb keyboard connected during flash. My suggestion is to reflash with floppy to last bios version that worked using only ps2 mouse and keyboard with the following instructions:
DOS floppy flash shall be performed with :
awfl833d.exe w7030nms.180 /py /sn /wb /cc /cd /cp /f /e
(Replace biosfilename with appropriate version for Neo1/neo2 etc , switches remain the same )
After flash is complete :
TURN OFF PSU (don't restart) wait 15 seconds
Turn on again , press the power button .
Enter BIOS and load optimized defaults (NO OTHER CHANGES) , save + exit
Boot the system again with the floppy in the drive to let the DMI pool build and update itself .
If that works, then reflash to the bios you tried before with the same procedure. Once you have stable system with ps2 keyboard and mouse working, re-enter bios and enable usb and keyboard support as a lot of bios' have it disabled by default for some strange reason.
Good luck.

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I've just purchased a 21" imac running os x lion 10.7.3 and although the mac sees the keyboard when I set up the Keyboard from system prefs, it says 'keyboard cannot be found even though the Bluetooth prefs says it's there'.
Second, there's an on/off button on the right hand side which glows green for a second when it's pushed, and ditto if you push it again, so I don't know if the keyboard is on or off! Surely it should glow grren when ON and not when OFF or is there a problem with the keyboard itself?
Bill

Hello:
I've just purchased a 21" imac running os x lion 10.7.3 and although the mac sees the keyboard when I set up the Keyboard from system prefs, it says 'keyboard cannot be found even though the Bluetooth prefs says it's there'.
Is the KB working on the system or not?
Second, there's an on/off button on the right hand side which glows green for a second when it's pushed, and ditto if you push it again, so I don't know if the keyboard is on or off! Surely it should glow grren when ON and not when OFF or is there a problem with the keyboard itself?
That is the way it is designed. When you turn the KB on, the light is on for a brief period of time. It does not stay on.
Barry

Problem with wireless keyboard and wireless mouse

All of a sudden, after more than 6 mos., I am having problems with both the wireless keyboard and wireless mouse. I am getting a "connection lost" message on the screen with a picture of the keyboard. It only stays there a few seconds, disappears, then the keyboard is ok again.
The mouse is even more frustrating. I am not using the ball for scrolling, just moving the mouse to move the pointer. It will be working perfectly, then for 15 to 30 seconds will either not respond, or be extremely slow, then be ok again. This has repeated a number of times today, especially when I am in iTunes. The batteries are fine in both devices, since I had the problem, changed the batteries, and still have these problems. Any ideas?

Brian, I called Apple and I think they fixed the problem with the keyboard. Unfortunately, I did not write down the exact keystroke sequence they gave me, but let me tell you what I did. I unplugged the computer and waited 60 seconds. After I plugged in back in, I was told to immediately hold down 4 keys. I think they were something like Ctrl, Command, Shift, and R. Those may not be the exact keys, maybe it was Option instead of Ctrl, and maybe R is not right. I am not sure. Those keys are held down until the second beep is heard after the computer was turned on. Supposedly, this re-established connections between the computer and the keyboard. Sorry I did not write down the key combination. If you can, call Apple and get the proper key stroke combination

Annoying problem with aluminum keyboard

i recently bought the new aluminum keyboard and i love it except for a couple of things:
i really liked where the volume and brightness controls were on my old keyboard. i have searched high and dry to see how to move the volume controls from F10-F12 to F16-F19, and the brightness controls from F1-F2 to F14-F15. the reason i want to remap these keys is not only for convenience, but also because i need the F1-F12 keys free.
now, you will probably remind me that in the Keyboard & Mouse preferences, there is an option to use the F keys as standard keys (meaning that if i wanted to use the brightness/media/volume) i would need to hold down the fh key, but this is a huge inconvenience to do, and i would like them back in their respective places.
how is it possible to 1. remap the mentioned controls to where they used to be? and 2. not have to hold down the fn key to press them?
i would greatly appreciate any help on this, as it is frustrating me by the hour.

thanks for the reply but unfortunately that program only allows you to open apps/folders when keys are remapped.
i don't see what would be so hard about writing a program that did the following:
- recognize a command from your keyboard (fn + f10 = mute audio)
- create a new shortcut for this command (f17)
so it will read: replace f17 with the function of fn + f10
guess i will have to keep waiting..........

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Hi everyone:
This seems to be a slightly obscure question -- at least, I can't find a ready answer for it with the search terms I've tried, possibly because most people don't use this particular accessory with the iPhone.
I have an iPhone 4 that I bought from and use on Softbank, the carrier in Japan, where I live. While visiting the United States recently, I bought an Apple Wireless Keyboard from an Apple retailer. I wanted to carry it with me for use with my iPhone, so I would reliably have a convenient way to access the Internet without being confined to the touchscreen keyboard. (I live in a rural area where WiFi spots are uncommon, but my iPhone's access to Softbank's data network is fairly good and consistent.)
However, to my frustration, I can't use the keyboard due to a mapping problem. The Bluetooth connection is fine -- the iPhone can discover the keyboard. However, the mapping is off: typing "Q" gets me "A," typing "Z" gets me "W", numbers and punctuation are off, etc. The key point: This is NOT a problem with the International Keyboard settings (under the Settings -> General -> Keyboard -> International Keyboards menu). I have the Keyboard setting set to QWERTY, which is the layout of the Apple keyboard; I have tried all the other possibilities, just in case. None of them work. Setting the Keyboard setting to QWERTY does not make the external QWERTY keyboard map correctly.
The rather ironic addendum is this: While on a recent trip to Tokyo, I visited the Apple store in Shibuya and, after concluding the main business of my visit (discussing my MacBook's battery problems with an English-speaking staffer), I took out my iPhone and keyboard and asked him about my mapping problem. He started with the Keyboard menu, tried the same things I had tried, realized they weren't working, and puzzled over the problem for a while. Then he did this: He hit a key combination (I believe) that brought up a menu on the iPhone's screen. "Ah, there's your problem," he said, and selected a new setting. The problem was instantly fixed.
To my chagrin, however, I neglected to write down what "Ken" had done to fix the problem. Argh... I was looking at the iPhone upside-down; I'd already taken up more than half an hour; people were waiting, and I guess, being used to living in the countryside now, that I'm not used to Shibuya crowds any more. Anyway, I didn't take careful notes or ask him to walk me through it, and now I cannot recall or repeat what he did. And I still can't use my keyboard!
Any ideas or advice, anyone? How did "Ken" fix my problem, and how can I repeat it? Much, much appreciated, in advance.

THAT'S IT. Sir, you have solved my problem. Thank you!!
And I feel a little silly; this will doubtless seem to an expert as if it should have been obvious all along. But isn't that always the way in hindsight?
Here's what happened: The key combination I was trying to remember was "Apple/command + space on the hardware keyboard," as you just said above. The "menu" it brings up is, apparently, a list of keyboards. I take it that this list is the same as the list of the "virtual" keyboards on the iPhone? I have never had more than one external keyboard -- the Apple Wireless -- but I do have several keyboards active virtually, as the iPhone in Japan seems to come with both the "Nihongo Ten-key" and the "Nihongo Romaji" keyboards active, and I added several other languages as well.
When I hit "Apple/command + space," this list comes up on the iPhone's touchscreen. Highlighted and checked at the top is "English," just as if it had been selected all along. But nonetheless, when I first turn on and pair my keyboard with the iPhone, I need to perform this key-combination action, as if to "reselect" English, and then the keyboard promptly starts working properly as QWERTY. I can only assume that one of the others had been default-selected before -- presumably one of the Nihongo ones? -- and that this was causing the interference.
Thank you again! You have made me and my wireless keyboard very happy.

Migration Problems with Time Capsule and New MacBook Pro

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Bob,
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Overall I love the Mac approach compared to the nightmare that was (is) Windows (although I do also run an Ubuntu Linux box just to keep me honest). That said, your sales reps do your products a HUGE disservice when they give glib and incorrect answer to what was, I believe in my case, a very specific and precise question.
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Serious problem with xorg - keyboard and mouse locks all the time.

In the last week I've notices serious problems with xorg.
After some event, I am not sure which one, keyboard stops responding.
Mouse cursor works, but I can't click on anything.
I can't switch to text console.
But I can kill xorg with CTRL+ALT+BACKSPACE.
Have you noticed something similiar?
I use xfce4, [testing] repository.

Jacek Poplawski wrote:
In the last week I've notices serious problems with xorg.
After some event, I am not sure which one, keyboard stops responding.
Mouse cursor works, but I can't click on anything.
I can't switch to text console.
But I can kill xorg with CTRL+ALT+BACKSPACE.
Have you noticed something similiar?
I use xfce4, [testing] repository.
I had that a few days ago, couldn't reproduce it. I was also running xfce4. I havn't had it today and im running xfdesktop+xfce-mcs-manager+pekwm+xfce4-panel... so it may have been xfwm4.
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How to fix shortcuts problems with foreign keyboards and photoshop in english

Some shortcuts won't work with a non english keyboard and you'll have to switch to english keyboard to fix this but it's not always practical
You can use a program from Microsoft available here to customize your keyboard
http://msdn.microsoft.com/fr-FR/goglobal/bb964665.aspx
It works well with Win 7 64 bits and it's easy to use !
And you can still use your normal keyboard with others application (windows can switch automatically keyboards)

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Strictly speaking a cable should meet the HDMI standards before it can be sold and if it doesn't work you should ask for it to be replaced. Higher cost cables cost more because of quality, quality that is represented in quality control or tolerance, higher price cables will likely have a lower failure rate, but that doesn't mean cheap cables shouldn't work when you buy them.
Uniformity in diameter and in length are paramount. If one component is 1/3200 th of a mm longer than another the signal will become out of sync, variations in diameter can cause the signal to bounce back along the cable.
Personally, I'd never buy an expensive HDMI cable but I'd also avoid the ultra cheap ones, they should work out of the box, but throughout their life they will likely be pulled, bent, tripped over and run over with the vacuum cleaner, better cables are likely to have greater resistance to such treatment.

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I have a problem with boot camp and maybe macbook pro?

I am having issues with boot camp here is what I did.
I attempted to partition for windows then this message popped up after 2 minutes:
Verification failed. this disk could not be partitioned.
Use Disk Utility to repair this disk.
so I used the disk utility to repair the problem then this message came:
First Aid failed
Disk Utility stopped verifying “Macintosh HD” because the following error was encountered:
The underlying task reported failure on exit
Verifying volume “Macintosh HD”
Checking HFS Plus volume.
Checking Extents Overflow file.
Checking Catalog file.
Incorrect block count for file Temp File
(It should be 13 instead of 0)
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking Catalog hierarchy.
Checking Extended Attributes file.
Checking volume bitmap.
Checking volume bitmap.
pair",0)
Checking volume information.
Invalid volume free block count
(It should be 23087569 instead of 23087570)
The volume Macintosh HD needs to be repaired.
Error: The underlying task reported failure on exit
1 HFS volume checked
Volume needs repair
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Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer. Now shutdown the computer for a couple of minutes and then restart normally.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior (4.0 for Tiger) and/or TechTool Pro (4.5.2 for Tiger) to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
If you are unable to repair the drive then you will need to reformat the drive using Disk Utility. Of course this will erase all your files so have a backup before you start.
Basic Backup
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Retrospect Desktop (Commercial - not yet universal binary)
2. Synchronize! Pro X (Commercial)
3. Synk (Backup, Standard, or Pro)
4. Deja Vu (Shareware)
5. PsynchX 2.1.1 and RsyncX 2.1 (Freeware)
6. Carbon Copy Cloner (Freeware - 3.0 is a Universal Binary)
7. SuperDuper! (Commercial)
The following utilities can also be used for backup, but cannot create bootable clones:
1. Backup (requires a .Mac account with Apple both to get the software and to use it.)
2. Toast
3. Impression
4. arRSync
Apple's Backup is a full backup tool capable of also backing up across multiple media such as CD/DVD. However, it cannot create bootable backups. It is primarily an "archiving" utility as are the other two.
Impression and Toast are disk image based backups, only. Particularly useful if you need to backup to CD/DVD across multiple media.
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files.

Problems with screen, keyboard and trash when logging in?

Hey. When I restart or turn on my mac the login screen pops up, as per normal, but for some reason the screen is really dim, like only 4 squares dim, and so is the keyboard. I thought it was the ambient light sensor because I'm usually in a well lit room but I tried it in a dim room and the same thing happened. When I log into my account, it doesn't change and I have to push the the F2 and F6 keys so the screen and keyboard is at max. What do I do to stop this from happening? Also, the trash always has this folder called "recovered files" in it. Where does it come from? And how do I stop it from appearing? Thanks in advance!

Hi Fonzo
For backlight functions not working correctly try an SMC reset (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964), read the instructions through carefully before attempting.
As for Recovered files:
One or more Recovered Files folder may appear in your Trash after restarting your computer. The recovered files are temporary files used by Mac OS X applications. Usually temporary files are deleted by an application when it no longer needs them. If an application quits unexpectedly, the temporary files may not get deleted by the application. When you restart your computer, Mac OS X moves these temporary files to the Trash.
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J.C

I have a problem with my motherboard and my battery of my 2010 macbook pro 13". It was just serviced with a new screen, keyboard, and logic board.

I have a problem with my motherboard and my battery of my 2010 macbook pro 13". It was just serviced with a new screen, keyboard, and logic board. How much will a new battery and motherboard cost and would it be worth it or should I just get a new computer. It was about 300 dollars to get it serviced last week. if it adds up to much past 600 dollars I will just get a new one. THANKS FOR ANY HELP!
P.S During classes today it began beeping in my bag. Like three kind of long steady beeps then a short pause, and when I opened it I couldn't see anything but it was on so I turned it off and back on.

Depends on what options your Apple store offers - if they can do a depot repair (where they send it out), that's around $300 for all parts & labor.
If the store doesn't have that option, a logicboard is around $600, battery $80-$100, from what I've seen.
If they JUST replaced the logicboard, you absolutely should NOT have to pay for another replacement - the replacement is covered by a warranty. If they want you to pay for it, make sure you have a copy of the receipt for the work that was recently completed so you can show it to them. They have no reason to charge you for another logicboard.
~Lyssa

Apple Aluminum Keyboard and 23" cinema Display and MacBook Pro??

Hello there
I have just purchased an Apple Aluminum Keyboard and have and MacBook Pro with and 23" cinema display, and if i try to connect the keyboard to my cinema display via USB the keyboard don't work.
i have an Apple mighty mouse that works fine wen connected to the USB port on the display...
why is it not working...

have you tried a different USB port on the ACD? Maybe the one you used was defective? I run a 7-port bus off one of the USB ports for all my hardware. OTOH, I do use bluetooth mouse and keyboard!

Problems With Aluminum Keyboard and My Macbook

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