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Adobe Acrobat Professional & Digital Signatures

OK, I have Acrobat Pro CS3. I can create a "self signed" digital certificate, which will insert my signature onto a .pdf document to "sign" it. But when the recipient opens it, the signature is not digitally certified and the author is UNKNOWN.
I know I need to buy from a third party company a Digital Signature Certificate that works with Adobe Acrobat P:rofessional, but try as I might, using the Help in Acrobat or searching using Google, I cannot find any company that sells a Mac friendly Digital Signature Certificate.
Every site I look at (like Veri-Sign for example) requires Windows and Internet Explorer. Some sites will sell a USB key to make the certificate portable but again these require Windows.
Can anyone help please? What company sells Digital Signing Certificates for Adobe Acrobat on the Mac?

Regarding #1, the short answer is no. Every time the file is digitally signed it necessitates it being saved. That's what allow "View Signed Version" and signature roll back to work.
As for # 2, it depends on the version of Acrobat. Versions 6 and 7 allowed anyone to remove a signature as long as it wasn't a certifying signature. In the case of the certifying signature on the signer could remove. Beginning with version 8 you can only clear if you have access to the digital ID that was used to create the signature.
Steve

Why are nd filters still used with digital?

I'm kind of new to the world of DSLRs, but it just occurred to me from what I know, that nd filters should really be a thing of the past. I mean nd filters are just there to reduce the amount of light right? This is such a basic thing to do when dealing with digital imaging. Other than holding onto the past, why wouldn't there be a way to set your ISO as low as 1? Or am I just totally missing something? I know some professional digital video cameras like the sony f65 have internal nd filters, but unless that's a software thing, then that also seems a bit silly. Can someone educate me if I'm not understanding.
Cheers,
Cg.
Canon 6D,Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM, Sigma 1.4 x EX DG Teleconverter, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 macro USM, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8, EF 40mm f/2.8 pancake, Sigma AF 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM, Pentax 400mm f/5.6

Many "effects" filters are no longer required as the effects can be applied with digital editing software... so while it's true that many filters are "a thing of the past", ND filters are _not_ actually "effects" filters. What they do cannot be simulated by editing an image.
An "good" ND filter wont change the look of the image itself... everything should appear sharp and without any color cast. What it does... is change your shooting CIRCUMSTANCES.
Suppose I'm shooting with an outdoor "fill" flash on a sunny day and my flash can't do "high speed sync" mode... so I'm limited to max flash sync shutters speeds of, say, 1/200th (this varies based on your specific camera model.) The "Sunny 16" rule says that I the normal exposure for full mid-day sun using f/16 is to use the inverse of the ISO as the shutter speed. So at a low base ISO of ISO 100, that'd be 1/100th. But the side-effect of f/16 is a _very_ broad depth of field and suppose I want a deliberately blurred background. I can increase the shutter to 1/200th and this will let me drop my f-stop to f/11... but that's still a LOT of depth of field and no nicely blurred background. If I wanted to bring that down to, say, f/4... I'd have to find a way to dump 3 full stops worth of light. I can't just drop the f-stop to f/4 and increase the shutter by 3 stops to 1/1600th because that's WELL beyond flash-sync speed and my flash (for purposes of this example) can't do high-speed sync.
One really great way to dump 3 stops of light so I can drop my f-stop down without having to speed up my shutter is... a 3 stop ND filter (sometimes called an ND 0.9 -- every "0.1" worth of density blocks 1/3rd of a stop of light.)
Another _VERY_ common use of the ND filter is to get shutters speeds much slower than possible without the filter.
Suppose I want to take a photo of a waterfall and I want a slow shutter so that I can have that gorgeously blurred dreamy looking water. At f/16 my shutter is still at 1/100th... I could go to f/22 and drop the shutter to 1/50th... but that's still pretty fast. If I used 5 stops I could get the shutter down to 1/4 second. A 10 stop ND (ND 3.0) would let me bring that down to 8 seconds...
The final images in these examples would still have the same amount of light and there'd be no tint or color-cast on the images... what you're REALLY doing is changing your shooting "circumstances" which allows you to use different exposure settings than would otherwise be possible without the filter.
Hope that helps!
Regards,
Tim
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

I needed the kind of sofware like digital art large collection of everything

Everytime I ring up the stores they say we dont have that kind of software and they say google images or yahoo images, but I got a professional
digital printing business I need some kind of software if any to where I get my images from.

At http://www.istockphoto.com you can get photos up to XXXLarge
To put this into perspective here is the sizings for each size they offer on the website:
Size
Pixels
Uses
XSmall
425x281
Small web photo
Small
850x562
Large web photo
Medium
1710x1140
Business Card/ Small print piece
Large
2730x1800
Brochure/ Medium print piece
XLarge
4200x2790
Brochure/ Full page brochure
XXLarge
4900x3270
Poster/ Large print piece
XXXLarge
5600x3750
Tradeshow booth/ Large print piece
Now obviously these photos cost more as you increase in size but the site has a scheme that will save you money the more times you buy.

Digital Publishing Suite

I work for a school district and we want to experiment with self publishing 21st century digital textbooks. The combination of InDesign and the Digital Publishing suite looks ideal. However we do not want to be locked into the Apple ecosystem. The goal of the project is openness and a proprietary system like Apple is the opposite ofopenness.
So for $40/month we can get the Creative Cloud and get everything we need EXCEPT we are locked in to the Apple system for tablets and smartphones or we can spend an additional $500 a month for the professional Digital Publish Suite.
That seems odd to spend $500 a month to publish to an open platform. Am I missing something or is there another way to go?
BTW we looked at eBooks but support for video is spotty at best on Android devices (are you listening Adobe Digital Editions?).

If you are only experimenting with digital publishing, you can build Android folios and view them through the Adobe Content Viewer without paying for distribution to the Google Play store.
Once you have built something that you actually want to distribute via the store, you will have to consider your licensing options, but until that live distribution is needed, there is nothing stopping you from experiementing with Android publishing.

Premiere Pro CS4 "Export Settings" window does not show up.

Hello,
I've run into a new problem with Premiere Pro CS4. Basically, when I select "File > Export > Media" my Export Settings window doesn't show up. If I click on the Premiere window I hear the beeping sound and nothing happens, if I hit Enter the Export Data window pops up and then Media Encoder opens. So, it seems that my Export Settings window is still open but I can't see it and make the necessary setting changes. It does not appear to be minimized and I can not locate it on my desktop anywhere. This is really frustrating because I was able to see the Export Settings window just a few weeks ago when I was exporting my last project. I've tried changing my screen resolutions but that didnt reveal the Export Settings window.
Does anyone know what is going on here and, more importantly, how I can fix it? I am really stuck here and am working against a deadline. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
-Ben

Ben,
THANK YOU!!!! For two days I have been struggling with the exact same issue. And of course it was simple to fix, if I had just thought about it. Thank you for taking the time to post your experience. I had tried all sorts of stuff trying to get everything onto my #1 monitor, with desktop & workspace resets, resizing my display, etc. After reading and printing your post,
Hitting ALT+Space,
Down Arrow,
Enter,
and then pressing the left arrow and watching my Export window slide into view, I was laughing so hard, that I was tearing up. It would have been a month waiting for my second monitor to get repaired to get to see what was still being displayed on this ghost monitor. Each week, I video and edit our church's service and then post three versions (Windows Media Player, Ipod-MP4, MP3 Audio) of it to our web site. I would have been four weeks behind were it not for your post.
Again, a BIG Thank You!!!
Tony Salso
[email protected]
Cedar City, UT 84720
Tony—Professional Digital Pictures
--Videographer and Webmaster
Red Hills Southern Baptist Church
Serving Jesus in Southern Utah
[email protected]
www.redhillssbc.org

Things you need to know about 6280

Hi everybody, I used to have a 6680 and I say this with regret. Why? I gave it to my girlfriend as a gift. Now that was a good sturdy functional phone. Now I bought a 6280 from Vodafone. I wanted a N70 but the Vodafone representative recommended this one. I chose to go with the 6280 because the N70 looked a little bit too fragile. She also said there are no significant differences. Well, she couldn’t be more wrong. Let me tell you why. The first thing I should mention is that 6280 is not a symbian phone! This, for who knows what it means, it is a lot. I wasn’t aware. You cannot switch between applications for one. So now since I bought it, I gave it a go, see what it is all about. Nice graphics, big screen, no problems (I read here somebody had some). The first annoying thing that hit me is the back light. Goes out in an instant. Or 10 seconds they say. Depends on how you measure time. The problem is you cannot adjust that. Neither the contrast. Nor the luminosity. Some people find these features useful. Nokia seems doesn’t. Some people said on this forum that the sliding front does not have a good grip. Mine seem to do. Navigating through folders is somewhat frustrating but this is subjective. Another thing you should know is that you cannot set the memory card as the default storage space and the phone memory is small. Just about 5MB free with … nothing on it. But I guess you can get around that and be happy with what you have. Now for the real problems. One big issue for me was synchronizing with Outlook. I got it working in the first try. No problems there. But when checking the contact list on the phone … well, disappointment. The 6280 does not record company name, job title and birthday. This is a huge problem for somebody well organized like me. Birthdates are saved in calendar but they do not show up in the contact details. Try finding a birthday through the entire calendar! Second thing that got me down is that the contact phones have no area codes. This you might say “well, it’s ok”. Not if you modify something and then you get your contact updated in Outlook with no area codes. Again BIG problem. My second frustration was with the email accounts. It was hell to figure out how to configure and then I realized. If you have multiple email accounts … you should get another phone. 6680 is good. I assume any symbian enabled phone will do. Not this one. You cannot have all the emails grouped or in separate folders at least as it is on s60 phones. No. here you have to go to “Menu – Settings – Configuration – Personal Config Settings – select other email account and activate it”. Then you go back and go into the email folder. Good job Nokia! I think they could have found a worst sequence to do it. Also, get this, I assume (99% I know) that the emails get stored in the phone memory. You have no way of moving to memory card and no way of reading office or pdf files. Note that on symbian there are applications to do it. As for the battery, I don’t know yet. It did not last one day anyway but I gave it a good run and I know it will improve after several recharges. The good things I know about this phone is that the video has a good quality. I cannot say for pictures because I do have a professional digital SLR camera and I cannot compare without being mean. It is still a phone. The radio is average. Good enough I say. Small note to end this. The phone should have predictive text input. Should, because it is not in the menu. A problem that a firmware update should resolve. I don’t know to what version since I might have the last one. It is: v 03.60 10-02-06. I would buy another model. If you are like me, pay attention to all I had to say. Cheers!

Good posts a lot of information I needed or to know, or more so wish I'd known prior to purchasing the 6280. Came across this post while trying to find resolutions to a number of the 'problems' with this model that you've listed, or for accuracy's sake functional and features missing from this phone or poorly develop, in comparison to other models.
Fact: One 'bug' that hasn't been raised in these posts is the management of a contact thumbnail's through PC Suite does work. Adding a thumbanil on the PC doesn't appear on the phone, and adding a thumbnail on the phone doesn't appear on the PC.
Oppinion: The lack of management/handling of Company name & Birthday were the killer for me!
Fact: Also I've only had the phone about 2 days now and I've had it just stop and mysteriously restart on me about 4 times. Admittly I've been using it a lot but not doing anything out of the ordinary to expect that.
Oppinion: On the plus side the screens resolution great, and the photos very good for a phone. Neat little cropping tool, but nothing to rotate. Although the camera doesn't have a protector the case can be replace fixing and scratches! The phone is generally pretty responsive, boots and shuts down very quickly too.
Oppinion: I'm probably being over critical here but the video call's camera at half arms length barely shows your whole face, at full arms length it's 'closer' to what you'd see on a passport. Although at this distance viewing the person your calling is more difficult. The phone has a good digital zoom in-out feature during a video call. But given the small portion of you shown under normal circumstances I don't imagine this would get used often. Admittly it was entertaining to keep the phone where it was and zoom in on my eye, but it's entertainment value will wear off (or maybe i could call me iridologist).

Tool icons, navigation, elements need to be larger for those that want it

I have read through many forums from May 2012 right up through the current ones about this issue. There are a lot of Photoshop users who are complaining about the size of tool icons and other elements as being way too small. Then there are others who defend the size of Photoshop and some who say the icons haven't really changed. Finally, there are some who say Adobe will not do anything about this.
Let me offer a perspective as a 15 year user of Photoshop and other Adobe products. Under the earlier versions of CS, Photoshop would follow the Windows sizing instructions inputed by the user. So if we wanted everything to be large and 150% of normal size, Photoshop would follow those instructions regardless of the monitors resolution. In CC especially, it appears Adobe has abandoned any connection in its software to what the user has defined in Windows about sizing. This isn't so much about the actual size as defined in Adobe's code but how those sizes vary or don't vary based on Windows settings.
This is no minor matter. We are now working on a high resoltuion, 23" Apple Cinema Monitor at top resolution. We do that to get maximam clarity. At the same time, we know that we cannot possibly use any software that looks as small as it would in that resoltuion without adjustment. So we turn around and crank Windows up to maximum oversize in every setting that exist. The result is that desktop icons show at the size we want and other major software also shows at the size we want. The best example is Cubase which is a professional digital audio workstation. Cubase is to muisic what Photoshop is to images. Both highly professional tools. The difference is that even in high resolution, Cubase defers to the Windows sizing. All the icons, menus, navigation bar, track workspace and more are very large just like the icons on our desktop.
This means that we know it is possible and not difficult for all software to follow the Windows settings inspite of the native resolutlion. So far Adobe has chosen not to do this. Below is a screen shot of PS CC on our monitor (actually 2 monitors with Apple Cinema on the left where PS is). Unlike all the screen shots that have been shown by others during the last 18 months, we made sure that our desktop icons could be clearly seen as well. Notice the size difference between PS icons, navigation and elements versus our desktop icons. Cubase looks like our desktop icons. So why can't PS?
It is our recommendation that Adobe do the following immediately. You can't ignore 18 months or more of complaints from a large number of users without addressing the problem. The world has gone to high resolution monitors but for many of us, we need the size of software to be larger than the native resolution we are using. It's not a matter of dropping the resolution. That is not desirable and not necessary based on our actual experience. That produces other types of problems with lack of clarity that don't work. Try to select a single strand of a sound wave when there are one hundred a second in low resolution. We need the resolution but we also need the software to show larger for those that want it. For those that don't, you may be happy but why should everyone else be unhappy or unable to use the new software.
1. Provide a yes/no option to allow Adobe CC to follow the Windows sizing settings inspite of monitor resolution. Those that don't want to do this can leave it no. Those that want it can turn it on and make the entire program look bigger.
2. Provide internal CC settings to increase the size of any and all visual workspace elements and tools on a percentage basis for maximum flexibility. There may be good reasons why some people don't want to change their Windows sizing but do want to increase the visual size of CC programs.
Frankly, this is not rocket science and I'm amazed Adobe didn't jump on solutions after the 2012 forum discussions. To hear from people that nothing is gong to be done is scary for the user and should be scary for Adobe since it could result in losing customers and sales. Let's make this program work for all users on all resolution monitors in the way they need it to work. Other major software companies have done this. Why is Adobe the odd company out on this.

Thanks for your thoughtful answer. I do appreciate the issues here.
I'm aware of the problems in how applications work in an OS when that OS keeps changing (too much?!). Yes, this could be very consuming from a resource perspective and could take some time.
That's why my second recommendation addresses this problem without having to worry about the OS. It is not a huge resource or time issue for Adobe to provide internal sizing controls for all aspects of its software that have nothing to do with the OS or the resolution of monitor. We've had that sizing control for how big the file we are working with shows on the screen since Photoshop 1.0. I am aware of applications that added such sizing controls over 10 years ago and one of them over 15 years ago. This isn't new.
So let's put aside the disucssion about the OS and just focus on a way to define how big the entire PS program shows including all tools, elements and navigation on a percentage basis. Just an addition to the internal Preferences of the program itself. If I want PS to show at 200% or 300% of it's standard size, let me do it
The time and resources to add this to the program are not huge. Further, since this issue has been discussed for a long time, it should have been much higher on the priority list. If I was running product development, I would have made this a mandatory part of the introduction of CC. The number of complaints are simply too high to ignore this or say that it's going to take time. That tells me it's not a high enough priority on the development list.
Let's remember that for every person who does complain on these forums, there are a hundred or more that don't but are experiencing the same thing. The small size of PS tools, icons, elements and text is simply unacceptable to too many users for it to have gone on unaddressed this long.

Preview has taken over RAW file type binding from Photoshop

Preview v 3.0.4 has taken over as the default program with which to open RAW files. Double-clicking a RAW file in OS 10.3.9 or earlier (?) used to automatically open RAW files into the latest Photoshop version installed (be it 7, CS, CS2).
After purchasing a new Dual 2.7 G5 with Tiger 10.4 or 10.4.4, ALLL RAW ICNS have changed to a PREVIEW.app's icon for RAW images, and RAW files now default to Preview when double-clicked, instead of the Photographer's choice of Photoshop, as it has been for years.
These and other file type bindings (PDF) have been captured by Preview in the new OS.
What is going on? What to do? How do I regain the original file binding of RAW files to an intelligent and professional program (PHTOSHOP CSx), instead of this NEWBIE nearly unusable PREVIEW application?
Simply remove all PREVIEW resources? Then it's usefulness for browsing large numbers of images will be lost.
I simply want PREVIEW to leave my professional digital world alone and let me continue working efficiently.
Any help? Ideas?
Thanks a bunch,
jes360

Simply select one of your crw files, do GetInfo (command-i) on the file and in the Open With section choose Photoshop. Click the Apply to All button. From now on all crw files will open in Photoshop. I suspect the default changed because Preview can now open many many raw files, and not everyone has Photoshop.
Francine
Schwieder

Photoshop Crashes after GPU Upgrade

I just recently upgraded my GPU from an nVidia GTX 460 to an AMD Radeon R9 290, and since then I've been experiencing problems with Photoshop.
Just after I upgraded my GPU, I did a clean uninstall of my old drivers, installed my new drivers (which I also updated to the latest version [13.12] just today), and tried using Photoshop.
At first, I was prompted with an error dialog saying that Photoshop could not detect my graphics card, so it has disabled OpenGL support.
I ignored the error, and proceeded to editing an image, but after a few actions Photoshop crashed, prompting me with the 'Photoshop has stopped working' windows dialog.
After restarting Photoshop, I went to Edit -> Preferences -> Performance and checked the GPU Settings box, which was now grayed out.
When hovering over it, Photoshop displayed a notification saying that there is a problem with my Display Driver, and that I should re-install it.
I re-installed my graphics driver, tried several different versions too, re-installed Photoshop, did a clean uninstall (with the help of the Adobe Clean tool) and re-install, but none of these actions helped.
While I was in safe mode (for cleaning up my GPU drivers), I launched Photoshop and realized that even though it told me that there was an error with my drivers, it would work just fine, without crashing after executing a few actions.
I also checked the Help -> System Info dialog for possibly obtaining additional information about the error, but the only relevant thing I can see is 'The GPU Sniffer crashed on XX/XX/XXXX at XX:XX:XX'.
I find this weird, because when I manually run the sniffer, it simply exits after printing 'snifferStart="XXXX-XX-XX_XX:XX:XX"'.
The last thing I tried doing was renaming sniffer.exe to something different.
This resulted in Photoshop re-enabling the GPU Settings box (but obviously saying that there is no GPU detected), and getting rid of the weird crashes.
However, it also resulted in various other glitches, like the main view not updating, the layer previews not properly working, etc.
Finally, I should note that I tried using both Photoshop CS6 (which I initially had installed), and a trial version of Photoshop CC.
My system specs are the following:
OS: Windows 8.1 (64 bit)
RAM: 16GB DDR3
CPU: Intel i5 3570K
GPU: AMD Radeon R9 290
Secondary GPU (Onboard): Intel HD 4000 Series
Currently Installed Photoshop Version: Photoshop CC 14.1.2 (x64)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

I noticed the same problem if I had my two R9 290s in Crossfire mode. If I turn off Crossfire, I get no error.
HOWEVER, as I have just upgraded from 2 GTX580s, and I do a lot of professional digital painting, I noticed using my Wacom Intuos5 (I usew the Cintiq 24HD with GTX580 at work), there was heaps of lag in painting with a standard brush. If I just did a slow stroke, the 'paint' would be lagging behind the brush 5-10mm onscreen. I tried setting the 'Use Graphics Processor' down to Normal and Basic, and it got worse. I turned 'Use Graphics Processor' off completely and there is no real discernible lag, feels very natural as with the Nvidia cards. However, because this is turned off, I loose any GPU 'accelerated' advantages like animated zoom etc.
My setup:
Catalyst Software Suite: 13.12
Display Driver ver. 13.11
OpenGL(tm) Driver ver. 6.14.10.12618
Catalyst Control Center ver. 2013.1206.1603.28764
i7 2600K @ 4428Mhz | Asus p8z68 Deluxe | 8GB RAM | 2 x Gigabyte R9 290 | X-Fi Ti | 5TB | Silverstone Strider 1500W | SilverStone FT02B Fortress | Win7 64bit | ASUS VG236H 23" 3D LCD x 3 | Logitech G19 KB and G9 Mouse

Photo color

A friend took our wedding photos using a professional digital camera, when I look at the pics on my macbook pro in iphoto the colors are perfect. When I have taken them to a photo lab to print they are very purple in color and disappointing (as they are when i look at them in flickr) - I had a photo book printed using the apple product and the color was fine. I tried using iphoto to order prints but they came back purple. Very disappointed as I cant find anywhere I can have my wedding pics printed.
Any suggestions?

Hi remlap.
Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More.
I am sorry to hear that you are having issues with your print quality. I have done some research on the issue and I have found a great document on troubleshooting issues when your Images are Fuzzy, Blurry, Jagged, or Grainy.
If this document does NOT resolve the issue, please write me back so that we can attempt other steps to resolve the issue.
Thank you so much for your time.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say “Thanks” for helping!
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
W a t e r b o y 71
I work on behalf of HP

Best practices for applying sharpening in your workflow

Recently I have been trying to get a better understanding of some of the best practices for sharpening in a workflow. I guess I didn't realize it but there are multiple places to apply sharpening. Which are best? Are they additive?
My typical workflow involves capturing an image with a professional digital SLR in either RAW or JPEG or both, importing into Lightroom and exporting to a JPEG file for screen or printing both lab and local.
There are three places in this workflow to add sharpening. In the SLR, manually in Lightroom and during the export to a JPEG file or printing directly from Lightroom
It is my understanding that sharpening is not added to RAW images even if you have added sharpening in your SLR. However sharpening will be added to JPEG’s by the camera.
Back to my question, is it best to add sharpening in the SLR, manually in Lightroom or wait until you export or output to your final JPEG file or printer. And are the effects additive? If I add sharpening in all three places am I probably over sharpening?

You should treat the two file types differently. RAW data never has any sharpening applied by the camera, only jpegs. Sharpening is often considered in a workflow where there are three steps (See here for a founding article about this idea).
I. A capture sharpening step that corrects for the loss of sharp detail due to the Bayer array and the antialias filter and sometimes the lens or diffraction.
II. A creative sharpening step where certain details in the image are "highlighted" by sharpening (think eyelashes on a model's face), and
III. output sharpening, where you correct for loss of sharpness due to scaling/resampling or for the properties of the output medium (like blurring due to the way a printing process works, or blurring due to the way an LCD screen lays out its pixels).
All three of these are implemented in Lightroom. I. and II. are essential and should basically always be performed. II. is up to your creative spirits. I. is the sharpening you see in the develop panel. You should zoom in at 1:1 and optimize the parameters. The default parameters are OK but fairly conservative. Usually you can increase the mask value a little so that you're not sharpening noise and play with the other three sliders. Jeff Schewe gives an overview of a simple strategy for finding optimal parameters here. This is for ACR, but the principle is the same. Most photos will benefit from a little optimization. Don't overdo it, but just correct for the softness at 1:1.
Step II as I said, is not essential but it can be done using the local adjustment brush, or you can go to Photoshop for this. Step III is however very essential. This is done in the export panel, the print panel, or the web panel. You cannot really preview these things (especially the print-directed sharpening) and it will take a little experimentation to see what you like.
For jpeg, the sharpening is already done in the camera. You might add a little extra capture sharpening in some cases, or simply lower the sharpening in camera and then have more control in post, but usually it is best to leave it alone. Step II and III, however, are still necessary.

Missing Items in the Action Panel

Hi! I'm making my way through Adobe Flash CS4 Professional Digital Classroom and am stumped by one of the directions.
I'm learning the basics of ActionScript 3.0 and it says, referring to the Action Panel, "Press the Add a new item to script button and choose flash.display > MovieClip > Methods > stop."
However, when I click the Add icon, it lists only:
Top Level
Language Elements
adobe.utils
air.net
fl.accessibility
fl.containers
fl.controls
I don't see flash.display anywhere. What did I miss?
Matt

Thanks, but I don't think that's it.
This is what I see:
Thoughts?

X-Fi questi

Just a couple of questions. What would be considered the "best" X-Fi soundcard available? I would assume it's the Elite Pro, since it's the most expensi've and all. Are there any major problems with the Elite Pro that would deter me from buying it's? I hear problems about systems with 4GB of RAM, which I dont have but I will have soon, but I also hear that they're working on a new driver to fix that issue. Another question. Obviously putting the card on Entertainment mode is going to make music sound better. But most of the games that I play are older games or ports of console games (Quake III, Halo PC, Phantasy Star Online/Uni'verse). Should I be switching to gaming mode for these games, or would entertainment mode be best? And is there any easier way to switch between the two modes, because it seems kinda annoying having to do it manually. It'd be nice if I could just push a button on my keyboard and it'd switch between the two, I dont know what they were thinking. And if anyone wants to know, I'm running XP SP2 and using headphones. Also, I was considering buying an X-Fi card for my laptop since I saw that one was available. However, it's labeled as an Xtreme Audio, and from what I've heard the Xtreme Audio series isnt a true X-Fi card but is instead uses the same architecture as the Audigy2Z series. It's probably better than onboard audio anyways, but can anyone vouche for it being any better than the Audigy2Z notebook card?Thanks in advance.Message Edited by cApNhOwDy on 02-04-20082:28 PM

cApNhOwDy --> Any particular reason why the Auzen X-Fi Prelude 7. is better than the X-Fi Elite Pro?
Hardware
Better Circuit Board. Better Audio.
The Auzen X-Fi Prelude is a one-of-a-kind circuit board designed by Auzentech's engineers, leaders in the fields of analog and digital audio. Assembled with superior components, the board includes Auzentech-only innovations such as user-upgradable Operational Amplifiers, combo-ports that support both coaxial and optical connectors, and more.
National LM4562NA High Performance Audio OPAMP
The LM4562 from the NATIONAL combines extremely low voltage noise density (2.7nV/ ? ^Hz) with vanishingly low THD+N (0.00003%) to satisfy demanding audiophiles.
TI OPA234 SoundPlus? High Performance Audio OPAMP
The OPA34 series are ultra-low distortion, low noise operational amplifiers fully specified for audio applications. A true FET input stage was incorporated to provide superior sound quality and speed for exceptional audio performance.
Swappable OPAMP Socket (Front L/R only)
OPAMP IC can be easily replaced with another one. The swappable dual DIP type Operational Amplifier(OPAMP) provides convenient do-it-yourself upgrade for ultimate analog sound quality and color.
Optical / Coaxial COMBO Port
The SPDIF Output port has 25mbps bandwidth and supports DTS-
HD/DolbyTrue HD. It is possible to shift between Optical and Coaxial in this port. Optical cable can be connected with the TOSLINK adaptor (included with soundcard)
AKM AK4396VF DAC
The AK4396 is a high performance stereo DAC for 24bit 20dB stereo, 96kHz sampling rate, DSD Input, ultra-low out-of-band noise, 80mW, digital attenuator manufactured by Asahi Kasei Micro systems.
AKM AK5394AVS ADC
The AK5394A is a 24bit, 96kHz sampling 2ch A/D Converter for professional digital audio systems. The modulator uses the new advanced multi-bit architecture and achieves 23dB dynamic range and wide bandwidth with superior distortion characteristics.
Solid Condenser for maximum durability & stability
The solid capacitor has been adopted to provide higher durability and stability than usual condensers, and to stabilize the electric power source.<span class="blue">
<span class="blue">Dolby? Digital Li've
<span class="blue">Available via the latest [url="http://www.auzentech.com/site/products/x-fi_prelude.php#downloads]free driver update[/url].
Enjoy audio from your PC or game console through your home theater with Dolby? Digital Li've. A real-time encoding technology, Dolby Digital Li've converts any audio signal into a Dolby Digital bitstream for transport and playback through a home theater system. With it, your PC or game console can be hooked up to your Dolby Digital-equipped audio/video receiver or digital speaker system via a single digital connection, eliminating the confusion of multiple cables and ensuring the integrity of the audio signal.
[b]?Dolby Digital Li've in Elite Pro?[/b]
99.99 $ ---> 50 ? aprox. ----> [b]Auzen X-Fi Prelude[/b]
[color="#ff0000"]300 ? ----> Elite Pro
Message Edited by Rad-Wulf on 02-06-200802:57 PM

Color settings on camera

I've been doing a lot of playing with my new Canon XL2 and am starting to wonder if messing with the on camera settings is really worth the time? I mean, with the white balance set properly and lighting set, the other options seem to be a waste of time. For one thing, you can't see the colors well enough on the small view finder to make great judgement calls, the footage that you import is going to eventually go to color anyway to be checked and possibly corrected, and its very easy to put a little too much of something in the original that you might wish you'd have caught before pressing record.
So, how many of you spend the time to setup the camera during filming? Is this a skill I should really perfect, or am I ok leaving it set to auto for those types of things and just worrying with the white balance and light settings?
Thanks,
glenn

Let me get this straight, you are presenting an argument against learning your toolset? You are throwing out craft and knowledge for an auto-everthing minidv camera and a piece of software? Is this an argument against professional Digital Imaging Technicians and everything they bring to the plate in a digital cinema production? Is this an argument against professional video operators and everything they bring to live/live to tape multicam productions?
Briefly, there is merit in recording almost a raw, unprocessed image such as that from the Thomson Viper but at the same time, the Canon XL2 is an 8bit minidv camera; think highly compressed, narrow dynamic range video format. I should think that rather than process the heck out that imaging in post, that you'd want to learn to paint your imaging in camera or at least through careful charting and camera control know that you're maximizing as much dynamic range as you can get from such a wretched video format. Yeah, no way can Mr. Auto do that.
You are correct that the piddly lcd viewfinders on these "prosumer" cameras leave a lot to be desired which is why on set monitoring is of the utmost importance. If you're employing a lighting rig than you sure as h3ll should also be employing on set monitoring.
You are saying it's a waste of time to learn how to control gamma, the knee points, detail, master ped, and other arcane things such as chroma levels, hue, color matrices and iris and just leave it all in automatic, to let the visions of some nameless engineers in Japan determine how we should view things??
I'm sorry to be blunt but I don't see how this can be taken seriously. I would go broke if I took this point of view in my present and future employment.
Z

Professional digitizing embroidery

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