Profile Image Question

I've seen little avatars of ipod and other thing while reading these forums, would someone please tell me how to put one on my profile. Thanks a bunch!

Hair-splitting follows . . .
The forum administrators have tried having custom avatars on these forums, but due to instability problems with the forum software they turned that feature off
Custom avatars were available off and on and finally (for the last year and a half at least) on using the previous (WebX) forums software.
Custom avatars were not initially available using Jive's software (v4.x) because that was not a feature of Jive's software at that time. When Jive included that feature in a later version (5.x), we were told (in the Lounge) that the reason it wouldn't be enabled was that users would have to submit their custom icons to Apple to be uploaded and that Apple wasn't willing to put in that effort at that time, so, ultimately, we don't really know whether the use of custom avatars will cause added instability to the present system (though that is a reasonable assumption) because other exigencies have so far prevented their implementation. Ho hum.

Similar Messages

Profile Imanges are not getting deleted from Profile Image library

Hi,
If I go mysite and edit my profile and set a profile images and save the changes. Image is uploaded to profile Image library in the root of the mysite.
I Edit my profile again and this time I remove the profile image and save the changes. Image is not getting deleted from the profile Image library.
as per my understanding it should get deleted. My site clean job is running. user profile is active in AD.
Thanks
Omkar

My first question would be is it a big deal if the picture doesnt get deleted from the libarary? My understanding is that the profile picture field is a URL link, the first time you add a picture it will provision 3 copies of differing sizes to the
library. When you "remove" the picture, it just empties out the picture URL field. Which is a nice hidden recovery if someone accidently deletes a profile photo they really wanted (Or if your company really locks down picutures so you only get
a choice of a couple avatars instead of a personal photo).
Similar issue:
http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/sharepoint/en-US/17bc8538-568f-4fff-8933-458fdba4b701/delete-user-profile-picture-in-sharepoint-2010-when-account-is-deactivated-or-deleted-from-ad?forum=sharepointadminprevious
and response:
Since the user photo library follows certain standards OOB:
http://iedaddy.com/2010/12/sharepoint-2010photo-management-for-social-mysites/
I would say just create a small script that will periodically read the UPS and make sure there are no photos sitting in the library not associated to an account... here's an example of accessing the User Profiles w/ Powershell:http://iedaddy.com/2010/06/sharepoint-2010-updating-user-profile-properties-with-powershell/
You would just modify it to delete image files whose name is not associated to an existing NTName in the UPS.
ieDaddy
Blog: http://iedaddy.com
Twit: @iedaddy

Community Profile Image

Greetings again dear friends! I haven't been active on the Community for quite some time due to other commitments not allowing the leisure for social media involvement. Some may know me under a different username which, due to popular demand, has recently been kindly changed to reflect an 'affectionate' variant of my real name. As per suggestion, I opted for a short one as they're becoming more and more rare in availability. Staff and member opinions are welcome. Hopefully my activity within the Community will steadily increase, time permitting, with ample contributions to posted content. I do have a question in relation to user profile image, which I believe is currently limited to one chosen from the stock avatar collection; although I could be very wrong here. My question is whether it's possible to use a custom image such as a photo of one's self on their profile, and if so, how is this achieved? Any enlightenment would be appreciated. Great to see everyone (or at least their screen names ) again and I look forward to further interaction with Community participants. Regards, Terry

Good evening Terry. Whilst the basic method to input a personal Avatar is correct what you weren't told is, that there is a qualifiying period of use and ranking to be achieved as decided and determined by site management. They will monitor your use and when they see fit will advise you and open that aspect up for you to upload your avatar. Yes I know you have previously been a member and have a carry over of posts etc. etc., but this applys to all returning after an extended period or indeed new members. Look forward to your contribution on CS.

User profile images not persisting after log off on Server 2012 R2 RDS Session Hosts

Hi,
We have a 2012 R2 remote desktop deployment, with two session collections, a gateway server, and connection broker.
We have set these session collections to use centralised user profile disks.
What I am having an issue with, is that when a user sets their profile image through the server they have logged on to (I have the desktop experience pack installed so they are able to do this), they can see the user tile has been set with that image in
settings and also on the start menu, but as soon as they log off the server and back on, their profile image has been reset to the default blank image.
I have checked all of my group policy options, and cannot find any settings that could be impacting this.
Does anyone have any ideas why these images are not persisting for users or admins?
Thanks, Eds

Please check that the user is not getting a temporary profile each time he logs in. Also, make sure that the RDP client is properly configured to display the Wallpaper: http://www.webapper.com/blog/index.php/2007/10/18/enabling-desktop-wallpaper-on-remote-desktop-terminal-services/
This posting is provided "AS IS" with no warranties or guarantees , and confers no rights.
Get Active Directory User Last Logon
Create an Active Directory test domain similar to the production one
Management of test accounts in an Active Directory production domain - Part I
Management of test accounts in an Active Directory production domain - Part II
Management of test accounts in an Active Directory production domain - Part III
Reset Active Directory user password

Can't see profile images and emoticons

I have some problems with skype : I can't see the profile images and the emoticons.Take a look of this picture : http://postimg.org/image/58di6ht7n/
[Topic title updated by moderator to be more descriptive. Original topic title was: "I have some problems."]

Hi and welcome to the Skype Community,
Which Windows version are you on?
Please check the "Color depth" setting of your display settings and make sure you have it set to 32bit. There's a known ussue of emoticons and avatars not showing if you set it to just "16bit".

Album Artwork wanted in Music App - NOT Artist profile image

Right, so i've already read a bunch of threads pertaining to this issue but none have helped me so im starting my own.
I'm a hardened iphone user, and mac user in general, residing in the UK.
I recently bought an iphone 5s on O2 network and syncronised my new handset from a back up i had which was made from my old iphone 4s.
Now, im aware others experience a similar problem with the Music app in iOS7 - in that some artists show an "Artist profile picture" and others show one (of perhaps many) album artworks which are stored on the device.
This is an issue for me, here's why...
Being a huge music lover, and a creative (im a graphic designer) i digest my music library when scrolling visually through the artworks i see.
Without them, im usually highly uninterested in listening to anything as i can never decide what to put on.
Some artists profile pictures look more or less the same too, so i could be staring at 3 seperate artists who all look the same yet span completely different genres and i'll skip past every one of them because i cant remember exactly what songs i may have of theirs on my iphone.
I've read up on how people have managed to get ALL artists in their music library to display the artist profile picture instead of the album artwork, but not how they managed to get the album artwork back instead of the artist profile images.
I find this heavily annoying having just invested in a 64gb (32gb wasn't enough for my library of music) and ironically, i now don't want to listen to any of it because its so difficult to mentally register what i have in front of me, and make a choice...
help!

I know there is a setting in iTunes but I am not sure if it applies to iOS. Especially if songs are purchased directly on iOS but you can experiment with it.
In Preferences > Store > Share details about your library with Apple

Image ofFFolder withslternating face profile and question mark on screen

Can't use my Powerbook because of alternating face and question mark on screen.
What's wrong and how doI fix this?

That means that your system can't find anything to boot from. Do you have the original OS X discs that came with your system? Find the one that says in small print on the label 'AHT Version x.x'. Insert it and reboot holding the option key down. Choose the Apple hardware test, click the arrow to the right, and follow directions. Choose the extended test. What does it tell you?
If it gives you an indication your hard drive isn't present, you can insert the first OS X disc, and reboot holding the C key down, which will cause the system to boot from the OS X disc. Choose utilities from the menu bar, and disk utility. If it sees the hard drive, try a repair disk.
Please post back what you find.

Color profile problem/question.

These two exports of the same file were taken on my spouse's D300s, and are good examples of a profile problem I cannot seem to solve. This is the identical problem I also experience on the Nikon D700 and D3. The following was exported with the "Camera Standard" profile, and notice the yellow sun reflection on the door panels:
The following was exported with a xrite generated lightroom profile. Notice the better overall contrast, but also the horrendous unnatural yellow on the same door:
This difference causes all sorts of distortion in natural animal hair that contains any red-orange. I use these doors because they are such a stark example. Any attempts to correct with the WB will usually result in too much blue elsewhere. Also I have created many test profiles under many light conditions (both manually and from LR), and they all cause this problem in all three cameras. This is not a matter of one bad cameral, or one erroneously created profile.
I have two questions: Does this example show up well enough to see what I am talking about? If so, can anyone speculate as to the problem or solution? Even guesses would be appreciated since I am out of my own, and not expert in this sort of thing. Thanks!

George, thank you for this information. I have a couple of things for you to try and another question. The ColorChecker Passport color patches are small, so I would suggest trying to reshoot a calibration image with the ColorChecker Passport in the center and filling at least 1/3 of the picture width. In the image you provided the ColorChecker Passport is about 1/8 the image width and far left of center. I know, I know, it should not matter, but give it a try. This is what I'm doing to create camera profiles for all three of my camera bodies (Canon 300D, 600D, 5D MKII), and I have not had a single problem with "color matching" using this procedure AND what I will describe next.
Concerning white balance procedure you say:
Using the grey card of the same product placed just outside the subject crop.
I assume you are referring to the large 60% reflectance white balance card on one side of the ColorChecker Passport, but you do not mention how you set white balance. I suggest using the LR white balance eyedropper tool with the smaller 80% reflectance gray scale patch on the ColorChecker Classic target side. This is the 2nd patch from the left bottom in your picture right next to the brightest 90% white patch. Two reasons for doing this! A higher reflectance patch reduces the influence of camera noise in the image with the LR 5 x 5 pixels eyedropper tool. Here's a LR forum post with a heated discussion on these issues (or lack thereof): http://forums.adobe.com/thread/854734?tstart=60 The second purely empirical reason is the "Classic" target side provides me with more accurate white balance than using the larger 60% card. Perhaps this is a defect with my ColorChecker Passport target, but I don't know.
When setting white balance with the LR eyedropper tool I suggest taking at least five (5) samples of the 80% patch. I use the center, TL, TR, BR and BL corner areas of the patch. Do not use any reading that has a large variation from the others. Please remember that the eyedropper tool is sampling a very small 5 x 5 (25 pixels) area, and image noise or a target paint defect can give you a bogus reading. Write down the temp and tint for each of the five (5) readings, add them, and divide by five to get the "average" white balance temp and tint. Enter the temp and tint values manually into the white balance tool. I create a user preset for each profile which contains only the ColorChecker created camera profile and manually adjusted white balance settings.
I would also suggest you check the readings of all six (6) grayscale patches for neutrality (R=G=B) using your new camera profile and white balance settings. I have found in some cases using the 65% reflectance patch (3rd patch in) provides the most neutral “overall” white balance setting for the six (6) patches. This is despite the fact it contains more camera noise than the 80% patch next to it. Again, this observation is purely empirical – I am not writing a scientific thesis! It works for me and hopefully it will get you closer to what you want.
One thing I am going to do tomorrow is borrow a friends color checker to rule out the possibility mine is defective. It doesn't look defective, but the problem is so consistent.
This is a very good idea! Having worked in a manufacturing environment for over 45 years, trust me when I tell you defective product from even the largest company ends up in the consumer’s hands. Please let us know what you find.

DNG Profile Editor - questions about

0) Thank to Eric Chan for your work on this. Until now I used the Camera Calibration process through Photoshop and Camera Calibration table. But I see this as a big progress.
1) Will it stay only DNG editor or it will be also for raw pictures without a necessity to convert them to dng?
2) Will it be only stand alone aplication or as well a part of the LR?
3) Now I can switched off and on one color change (by the left mark in the Color List Box). Could it be possible to switch off and on the whole Color List Box to see all done changes?
4) I have red your comment that this tool doesn't work with lightness, only hue and saturation. But if I want to work on a specific picture (i.e. a man wearing a red sweater), it will be fine to have it in the brightness close to an end picture. Will it be possible to open a picture not only with WB, but also with exposure, blacks and other basic development setting?
5) Under the eye drop tool, I can see numbers of "initial" or "starting" color. But I can't see the numbers of changed color. It would be fine if I know the new numbers to see how close I am to them. It would be fine if the number over the color List Box will be also for starting color and also for end colors.
And one little proposal: if the color will not change, show in Color List Box only the starting (left) half of a color. Than I can simply see that I didn't set a new color or the color stay exactly the same (it is only a question if exactly the same or very close to the same).
6) It could be, that I will not use the exact color checker table for what you did process on the tab Chart. But many of color checker are delivered with exact numbers and picture on a cd, so it will be fine if I could open this "master" picture of a checker producer in a right panel under the Color List Box and simply take from it the end colors. First go to the main picture on left, choose the "initial color" and then simply go to this "master" picture in right and take the "end color". What do you think about this?
7) If I work on the tab Chart, I get the error window "not neutral gray patches, row 4 culumn 1". But if I move the circle to row 4 culumn 2 it works fine. Is there any difference or problem?
8) And last: how far is acting the shift of color. It will not work only for the one color but close surroundings will be also efeccted. How smal or large is the surroundings? E.g. if we take 360 degres for hue.
Tom

1. For now DNG-only. Here's why:
http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/DNG_Profiles_FAQ#PEOnlyDNG
http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/DNG_Profiles_FAQ#WhyNameDNGPE
http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/DNG_Profiles_FAQ#WhyPESeparate
2. Standalone for now. See above links for why.
3. Use the 'Preview Color Changes' option in the Options menu.
4. You can use 'Apply Raw Adjustments' in the Options menu to see your raw adjustments. This is __not__ recommended for building a general-purpose profile because you are then optimizing a profile with specific image adjustments in mind, rather than building a profile based more on the inherent camera characteristics.
5. True, that is a limitation of this implementation.
6. I am not sure what you mean. The Chart Wizard automatically optimizes the color patches in a test shot based on reference values for many physical charts, which is more practically useful than the numbers printed on the reference card that comes with the chart.
7. Make sure you avoid color casts in the bottom row. The PE is picky about making sure your gray patches are relatively neutral. It is an attempt to help you get a better profile.
8. Use 'Show Affected Colors' from the Options menu.
You may wish to read this page carefully and thoroughly:
documentation
It is the reference online documentation for the DNG Profile Editor and a few of the things you wish to do, such as preview all color changes, apply raw adjustments, and visualize the extent of each color adjustment, are all documented there.

Color Profile Setting question

Hi! I am new to the forum and have a strange question. I shoot with a Canon 40 in Adobe rgb color space. I import all the images into lightroom and sometimes I edit in PS (CS4). When I choose "edit in PS4" from lightroom, the color profile is Pro Photo and not adobe RGB.
My question is: can I set up PS to automatically convert any profile to Adobe RGB? I thought I did in edit/color spaces but tried it and it's back to pro photo colorspace again.
Help?

Check your Color Settings in Photoshop and select "Ask when opening" in your RGB settings. It could be that ProPhoto RGB is setup as your Photoshop RGB workspace, but I think you can change it to Adobe RGB there. You might also be able to set it in Bridge as your default RGB colorspace. I like the option of using "Ask when opening" in case I want to use ProPhoto on certain types of files and Adobe RGB on others.

Another Lens Profile Enable question

I know this question has been asked repeatedly and I believe have read all the answers to date but is it possible to keep the check box checked for each new picture being developed in Lightroom 3.4. The default profile works fine but the box has to be checked for each new photo and this is disruptive of a smooth workflow. If it is not possible please let me know. thanks jc

Thanks Beat, I was unaware of the performance impact Lens Profile corrections have on the Spot Removal tools.
If you don't normally use the Spot Removal tool on your images (I don't), then you are better off enabling Lens Profile in the default Develop settings. For those few images that need Spot Removal work simply uncheck 'Enable Profile Corrections.' Don't forget to re-enable lens profiles when done to see your final results.
I also suggest determining your own lens profile default settings. I use Distortion '0', Vignetting 50-75, and C. abberation 100. REASON: Distortion setting will cause some cropping of the image when applying correction and in most images distortion is not visible. I suggest manually selecting Distortion correction only for those images that exhibit obvious straight line curvature. I actually find most pictures shot with my highest distortion lens look better with '0' Distortion correction. The Vignetting setting at 100% can look unnatural and may cause areas toward the corners of your image to lose some sharpness, especially with very wide angle lenses. I set my default for 50% Vignetting and rarely see a need for more. The C. aberration control does an excellent job of correction and has no other issues, so I leave it at 100%.
I suggest you try it for yourself with each individual lens and make your own judgment – Your mileage may vary dependent on lens performance and subjects. Certainly feel free to set your default lens profiles settings differently for each lens where you feel it looks best.....and that may be 100 for all of them. You can always "fine-tune" the adjustments for images that require it.
To change the lens profile default settings, adjust all sliders to the new settings, click the down-arrow next to 'Setup' under 'Lens Corrections,' and select 'Save New Lens Profile Defaults.' You can also choose 'Reset Lens Profile Settings' to return to 100, 100, 100 default.

Core Image Question New ATI 9800 in QS 2x1ghz

I just installed a Radeon 9800 Mac Edition (128MB) in my Quicksilver 2002 Dual 1ghz w/ 1.5 GB RAM running Leopard.
I downloaded and installed the latest version of ATI Displays (4.5.7).
In System Profiler, under Core Image, it says, "Hardware Accelerated" instead of "Supported" like I expected it to say.
I do have two CRT monitors connected to the card, but it says the same thing if I only have the main connected.
Profiler says this:
ATI Radeon 9800 Pro:
Chipset Model: ATY,R350
Type: Display
Bus: AGP
Slot: SLOT-1
VRAM (Total): 128 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x4e48
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-A0750A-201
Displays:
VGA Display:
Resolution: 1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz
Depth: 32-bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
CPD-G420S:
Resolution: 1152 x 870 @ 75 Hz
Depth: 32-bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Should I be concerned about this? Is there a way to change it to "Supported"? Is there something obvious I'm missing?
Thanks!

When I installed Leopard on my Quicksilver I noticed the wording went from Supported to Hardware Accelerated for my Radeon 9600.
From what I've read about Core Image in the past, if a programmable GPU isn't available, AltiVec may be used. The following link contains some additional information:
http://arstechnica.com/reviews/os/macosx-10-4.ars/15
I'm wondering if the wording has been changed to reflect whether it's performed by the GPU or not. It would be interesting to see what's shown for graphics cards that don't support Core Image.

Exporting Images Questions

Hi,
I basically understand all of LR except for the only part that matters - getting my images out of LR for various purposes such as standard printing, enlargements, work website, personal website (in the future), Facebook etc. I'll save most of my web-related questions for another thread.
I don't have a printer, so I'm mostly interested in saving images to jpegs to take to a print shop (and possibly send online to some place like Shutterfly) and get them printed in good/high quality and untarnished (i.e. cropped or other manipulations by the print shop). I also live overseas in an undeveloped and unsophisticated country, so I have the language/concept challenge of explaining what I want to print shops. I'm having my own trouble with the concepts I also think in inches, but have to convert/work in cm.
1) I'll start with the most dumb question. In the Export dialogue, is "Image Sizing" the physical size that I am trying to make the print?
2) Is the aspect ratio affected by the Image Sizing settings? For example, if I have a 4:3 image but want it printed 4x6 inches or 5x7 or 8x10 etc. what happens in the Export dialogue? I think the image would get cropped, but I'm not sure
3) What do I do for enlargements? For example, I want to make a 4x6 inch print and then a 20x30 inch print of the same image? What settings do I need to change? I assume with an enlarged image I need to be careful of exceeding the original file size. Next question...
4) Is Image Sizing > "Don't Enlarge" the way to prevent the file size from exceeding the original file size? Or, is "Limit File Size to xxx" in File Settings the way to do this? I see no way in LR of knowing what my original file size is; or what it is after some cropping - the file size changes after cropping, right?
5) According to many (but not all), "Quality" in File Settings does not need to = 100. If I understand correctly, it's actually a 12-step scale that dramatically increases the file size in the last few steps of the scale with practically no discernible improvements. I wonder how the "Quality" setting might affect the print quality at various physical print sizes? Should "Quality" be set differently for prints vs. web? I don't really know what the file size of the image is after exporting until I open the properties.
6) A friend told me to just set print Resolution to 300 and web Resolution to 100 because it'll be easier to make calculations about pixels, image size and file sizes.
My friend also showed me Photoshop (which I don't have), and it seemed easier to get information about physical size, pixels, image size etc. I also looked at the LR Print Module, but I don't see anything in the module that clarifies my confusion about the above questions. Maybe some answers above will also help me understand how to export/save/upload images for my web-related purposes.
Ultimately, I think I'm trying to get a set of user presets for the various needs I might want and I apologize if I'm just not understanding the concepts or confusing them.
Thanks
Andrew

Thank you Jim. It's getting me toward the right direction. I've been experimenting with all different types of export settings to try and learn what is happening in LR.
I basically understand the concept of the # of pixels to print size.
However, for example:
1) I have an image from my OMD-EM1 that I shot in 4:3
2) I crop it to 2x3/4x6 in the Develop module > Cropping Tool. (But, LR never shows the crop size or file size)
3) I export it and set 6 inches by 4 inches in the Image Sizing dialog at 300 ppi
(Let's leave Quality at 100 for ease)
I fully understand that the image comes out at 1200x1800. The file size is 2.84 MB
I can tell the print shop to print a 4x6 inch print. It won't be cropped and it should have good quality.
4) Now I want a print of the same image at 20 inches x 30 inches (same aspect ratio and crop)
5) I export it and set 30 inches by 20 inches in Image Sizing at 300 ppi (9000 by 6000 pixels)
(Quality is the same at 100)
The file size is now 37 MB. This is going to be a problem, right? Pixalation??
If I go back to the original RAW file, the file size is 18 MB. Now, I have a file twice the size of the original.
I was told that you don't ever want to exceed your original file size.
If I drop the Quality to 90 and keep ppi at 300, then the file size is 16 MB.
Or if I reduce the ppi to 150 (keeping Quality at 100), then the file size is about 10 MB.
Is there going to be any difference in the final print?
Btw, I don't see any way in LR to find out what my original file size is; my cropped file size or what my exported file size will be until after I export it and open the properties tab or scroll over it.
I think Photoshop has a built-in print size/pixels/image size calculator.
I have no idea what I would do if I manually cropped something to a non-typical aspect ratio and then wanted to print it. But, that's probably another topic/thread.
Also, remember I live in Cambodia. I don't have the luxury of sending online to a quality print service or take to a real print shop. I have no idea what they use for printers here or how they set them up, but one problem is that they like to make everyone look "white"
Thanks again and apologies again for not quite understanding.
Andrew

AIR for iOS: Icons & Launch Image question

Launch Image:
AIR has been so changed since I used it last time, I can't really figure out anything, documentation is somewhat confusing to me. Could you anyone of you please answer my question? To some, it could be pretty simple.
My app is exclusively for iPads, works only in Lanscape mode, so I've included 2 launch images, which name: Default.png & [email protected] (I named them after reading this: http://help.adobe.com/en_US/air/build/WS901d38e593cd1bac1e63e3d129907d2886-8000.html)
When I copied final .ipa file to my iPad 2, well, its launch image appeared in Portrait mode! So, I'm totally confused as how many launch images I need to provide and what should be their name? I use Flash Professional CC to publish, I've included all the launch images in Publishing settings, so is there any order I need to follow or order in Included Files just does not metter? Please keep it in consideration that this app is only for iPads (specified in Publishing dialouge box) and works only in Landscape mode (both, left and right).
Icons:
I followed the above mentioned webpage and provided Flash Professional CC these icons: 29x29, 48x48, 50x50, 58x58, 72x72, 100x100, 144x144 & 1024x1024. I know 50x50 icon is created by AIR from 48x48, yet I provided it and 512x512 icon is only for development purpose, we need to manually provide it while uploading it to App Store, so I did not provide it.
When I copied final .IPA to iTunes, iTunes does not show App Icon as it used to show for development-ipa. So, I just want to confirm is it normal or I missed something?
Lastly, I copied final .IPA to my iPad 2, when I started it, I noticed that first it show the 'launch image' in Portrait mode (as mentioned above) and after may be 1-2 seconds, the launch image gone and it showed blank (black) screen untill my app started. The blank black screen showed up for 3-4 seconds. Is it normal?
Thanks.

Hey Yusuf,
"Default.png" is a portrait mode image for iPhone, iPhone 3 and iPhone 3GS.
For iPad 1, 2 & Mini you will need a 1024x768 image called "Default-Landscape.png".
For iPad 3 and 4 you will need a 2048x1536 "[email protected]".
So all you have to do is include these launch images in the publish settings and that's it, there is no special order and you do not require any other "Default" images other than those two. This should also resolve your blank screen problem.
It's normal for release builds not to show their App icon in iTunes, you'll notice that when you right click and press "Get Info" on an app you should be able to see the icon.
Hope that helps,
O.

Fixing Text and Image questions

Is there a way to make the back ground translucent so that
you can vagly see the background image. Like some way to change the
opacity in a container?
How come when I create a div tage and insert a picture in
there. I hit enter right after the picture to type in text there is
spacing from the top of the picture to the top of the container? I
want it so that top of the picture still remains flush. I can't
figure out how to keep it there.The only soluction I came up with
is to hit shift enter then type txt below. That keeps the container
flush with the top. Oh I forgot to mention I also have it set to
float left. Can someone help me with this problem.
One last question. I have test on the left hand side of the
page going down, in a menu fashing. I hit shift enter after each
row so the spacing is somewhat close. But when I try to indent a
row it indents the whole thing. Is there a way to just indent a row
buy itself if the row was created using shift enter?
Thanks for being so helpful :)

>>How come when I create a div tage and insert a
picture in there. I
hit enter right after the picture to type in text there is
spacing from
the top of the picture to the top of the container?
I'll guess that you're using design view. When you hit
<enter> and your
cursor is to the right of your image, Dreamweaver puts the
image in <p>
tags. <p> tags have an inherent margin, which is why
you're seeing space
above the image. You can add some css code to the head of
your page (or
add it to your external style sheet) as such -
p {margin: 0;}
>>I hit shift enter after each row so the spacing is
somewhat close.
Try using css to control your spacing, instead of using
shift-enter.
Likewise, you can also use css to take care of your indents.
BUT...it would be good to see your page, instead of guessing
how you
have set things up. Do you have a link?

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