Profile problem

I have problem with Profile :
conn / as sysdba
connected:
1. CREATE PROFILE SSPF LIMIT
SESSIONS_PER_USER 1;
2. create user test identified by test;
grant create session, alter session to test;
3. alter user test quota 10M on users;
4. alter users test profile SSPF;
I connect database via users TEST. after sucsessfully connect I manually plug out network cabel. Then connect as Sys from other PC.
select * from v$session; Return that user TEST alredy connectted;
Why Oracle store session of this user valid?

A user process may fail for any number of reasons, including the user exiting abnormally instead of logging out, the terminal rebooting, or the program causing an address violation. Whatever the cause of the problem, the outcome is the same. The PMON background process periodically polls all the server processes to ascertain the state of the session. If a server process reports that it has lost contact with its user process, PMON will tidy up. If the session was in the middle of a transaction, PMON will roll back the transaction and release any locks. Then it will terminate the server process and release the PGA back to the operating system
You can kill those sessions manually by
ALTER SYSTEM KILL SESSION 'session-id,session-serial'- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Kamran Agayev A. (10g OCP)
http://kamranagayev.wordpress.com

Similar Messages

  • Roaming profile problem?

    I'm not sure it's a roaming profile problem or not, but I need help to fix it.
    we use MetaFrame citrix to connect a remote computer running a medical program. Every computer has Citrix online plug-in.
    If user uses computer user always use, everything will be fine.
    It will be failed login Citrix if user need to login to anther computer to load the medical program.  uninstall and re-install Citrix online plug-in will fix it.  There's lots computers and users, I can't fix it by this way, need to find
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    seems no related to profile...
    you can recreate a user account to test.
    just a thoght...
    create a script to uninstall this application. set it as logon script via gpo. when all uninstall, reinstall it...
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  • Color profile problem/question.

    These two exports of the same file were taken on my spouse's D300s, and are good examples of a profile problem I cannot seem to solve.  This is the identical problem I also experience on the Nikon D700 and D3.  The following was exported with the "Camera Standard" profile, and notice the yellow sun reflection on the door panels:
    The following was exported with a xrite generated lightroom profile. Notice the better overall contrast, but also the horrendous unnatural yellow on the same door:
    This difference causes all sorts of distortion in natural animal hair that contains any red-orange.  I use these doors  because they are such a stark example.  Any attempts to correct with the WB will usually result in too much blue elsewhere.  Also I have created many test profiles under many light conditions (both manually and from LR), and they all cause this problem in all three cameras.  This is not a matter of one bad cameral, or one erroneously created profile.
    I have two questions:  Does this example show up well enough to see what I am talking about?   If so, can anyone speculate as to the problem or solution?  Even guesses would be appreciated since I am out of my own, and not expert in this sort of thing.   Thanks!

    George, thank you for this information. I have a couple of things for you to try and another question. The ColorChecker Passport color patches are small, so I would suggest trying to reshoot a calibration image with the ColorChecker Passport in the center and filling at least 1/3 of the picture width. In the image you provided the ColorChecker Passport is about 1/8 the image width and far left of center. I know, I know, it should not matter, but give it a try. This is what I'm doing to create camera profiles for all three of my camera bodies (Canon 300D, 600D, 5D MKII), and I have not had a single problem with "color matching" using this procedure AND what I will describe next.
    Concerning white balance procedure you say:
    Using the grey card of the same product placed just outside the subject crop.
    I assume you are referring to the large 60% reflectance white balance card on one side of the ColorChecker Passport, but you do not mention how you set white balance. I suggest using the LR white balance eyedropper tool with the smaller 80% reflectance gray scale patch on the ColorChecker Classic target side. This is the 2nd patch from the left bottom in your picture right next to the brightest 90% white patch. Two reasons for doing this! A higher reflectance patch reduces the influence of camera noise in the image with the LR 5 x 5 pixels eyedropper tool. Here's a LR forum post with a heated discussion on these issues (or lack thereof): http://forums.adobe.com/thread/854734?tstart=60 The second purely empirical reason is the "Classic" target side provides me with more accurate white balance than using the larger 60% card. Perhaps this is a defect with my ColorChecker Passport target, but I don't know.
    When setting white balance with the LR eyedropper tool I suggest taking at least five (5) samples of the 80% patch. I use the center, TL, TR, BR and BL corner areas of the patch. Do not use any reading that has a large variation from the others. Please remember that the eyedropper tool is sampling a very small 5 x 5 (25 pixels) area, and image noise or a target paint defect can give you a bogus reading. Write down the temp and tint for each of the five (5) readings, add them, and divide by five to get the "average" white balance temp and tint. Enter the temp and tint values manually into the white balance tool. I create a user preset for each profile which contains only the ColorChecker created camera profile and manually adjusted white balance settings.
    I would also suggest you check the readings of all six (6) grayscale patches for neutrality (R=G=B) using your new camera profile and white balance settings. I have found in some cases using the 65% reflectance patch (3rd patch in) provides the most neutral “overall” white balance setting for the six (6) patches. This is despite the fact it contains more camera noise than the 80% patch next to it. Again, this observation is purely empirical – I am not writing a scientific thesis! It works for me and hopefully it will get you closer to what you want.
    One thing I am going to do tomorrow is borrow a friends color checker to rule out the possibility mine is defective. It doesn't look defective, but the problem is so consistent.
    This is a very good idea! Having worked in a manufacturing environment for over 45 years, trust me when I tell you defective product from even the largest company ends up in the consumer’s hands. Please let us know what you find.

  • Constant IP Profile Problems

    Good Morning Everyone,
    I seem to have constant IP Profile problems where I have to keep contacting the Broadband Helpdesk to get the IP Reset every few weeks.  It seems to do it if the weather is bad (like over the past couple of days) or if i watch videos streamed from  YouTube.  I told the operator this the last time i called, but it was just dismissed and they just reset the profile.
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    BT Speedtest Results (Test Socket)
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    Upstream
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    Fast
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  • Color profile problem after installing CS4

    OK.
    First, let me post these side-by-side comparisons:
    As you can see in Image 1 (the "before," left-side photo in each comparison), the colors and overall appearance are distorted. I've read things about gamma but it's all confusing to me. This is surely a color profile problem, right? The transition among pixels that involve colors of yellow and gray is rocky, grainy, and the flat out color is just wrong. Now this color problem affects pictures when opened in both Photoshop 7.0 and the standard Windows Photo Viewer. Meaning, whenever I open pictures in both PS 7.0 and Windows Photo Viewer (my default viewer), this color problem totally messes up certain photos and really damages my ability to edit. I'm an avid photo editor and it's imperative I have proper color display so that I can accurately edit. Keep in mind that certain pictures do not take on this error. When a photo is generally brighter, the distortion is basically invisible. It's photos that are dark or have dark portions in them that display the distortion.
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    Since images display their true form in Windows Office Picture Manager, I don't think I need to calibrate my screen. Or do I? I've read things about it, and to some people, it's not necessary. Right? Okay. I really hope someone can give some advice! Thank you!
    P.S. Here's the original photo. On my screen, it looks distorted when opened in photoshop or opened w/the viewer. However, here on Firefox, it's fine.

    You should try to familiarize yourself with the concepts of color management.
    It's kind of too in-depth a subject to walk you through from a cold start here...  There are a lot of good resources out there to help you get started.  For example, in just a few seconds Google turned up this:
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    The one thing to remember is this:  There is NO quick solution, easy set of defaults, or direct answer to making your setup do what you want without your having to understand color management.
    People may tell you to calibrate your monitors, or use a particular color profile as a default, or whatever, and they may have good, solid reasons for telling you those things, but if you don't attempt to get your mind around color management it will always seem as though something isn't working right, or is simply magic, which will be frustrating to you.
    Here are some basic questions to ponder:
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    Is your monitor a wide-gamut display and do you have a color profile set up for it?  What kind of monitor is it?
    What version of Windows are you running?
    Do you know the difference between a color-managed app and one that is not color-managed?
    Which of the apps you're using/showing above are color-managed?
    What are your settings in Edit - Color Settings?
    Take some time and do some research, get your head around the concepts, and it will all make more sense I promise you.
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  • How to solve the Embed Color Profile problem...

    Hi Everyone,
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    I used another profiles name, because I dont have the old one installed anymore, Youll have to be exact about the letters though.
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    You could try:
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    // =======================================================
    var idassignProfile = stringIDToTypeID( "assignProfile" );
    var desc2 = new ActionDescriptor();
    var idnull = charIDToTypeID( "null" );
    var ref1 = new ActionReference();
    var idDcmn = charIDToTypeID( "Dcmn" );
    var idOrdn = charIDToTypeID( "Ordn" );
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  • Full screen colour profile problem

    I just posted this as feedback to Apple and was curious to see if anyone was having the same problem:
    I have a dual monitor setup: One Eizo CG222W and one Eizo CG210. The 222W is my primary display (menu bar on this one). Both monitors are calibrated and profiled with a Spyder3 and ColorEyes Display Pro. I have the profiles loaded on both displays. It is worth noting that both (particularly the 222W) are wide gamut, so you may well not see this happening if you are looking at an Apple Cinema display (no offence, but you're just not going to see this so pronounced on an Apple display). To put it into perspective, I have just bought the CG222W and was not noticing any issues with the CG210 because its gamut is narrower (but still wider than a cinema display).
    So, if I view an image within Aperture (not full screen), then it looks normal, but when I hit full screen and look at the same image (on the same display), it is noticeably over-saturated. As a check I also opened the same image in Photoshop (on the same display) and it looks exactly the same as when viewed in the normal (non full screen) view of Aperture.
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    There is well documented issue with this problem. The fix is to set your default monitor to whichever monitor you are using to view Aperture in full screen, using color sync utility.
    The reason you don't have this problem in PS is because it has its own color management within the software.
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  • Aperture and dual monitor ICC profile problem

    I am using an Epson Stylus Pro 3800 and run Aperture 2.1 from a MBP with a Cinema Display 23". I calibrated both displays (the 23" and the MBP display) with my ancient but working ColorVision Spyder, using OptiCal 3.7. I calibrated for a gamma of 2.2. and native white point. I check the results with various test images.
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    I ran Disk Utility to Repair Disk Permissions (many Epson-related permissions were wrong, for example "Library/Printers/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/Libraries/UtilityCore.framework/Versions/ A/Resources/Icon8007.png", should be -rw-rw-r-- , they are -rwxrwxr-x ) and reinstalled the latest Epson driver for 10.5 repeatedly.
    Even more surprising, at times the color of the full screen image can be off at the same time the thumbnail looks perfect! How is this possible? It seems as if thumbnail and full image use different display profiles. In addition, if I export the Master and display it in Lightroom or CS2 it looks perfectly fine and prints as expected. (I use the appropriate "canned" ICC profiles for the printer-paper combination).
    The most surprising happens, however, when I drag the image from the 23" to the MBP: when the image is about half-way between the two displays (that is, one part is displayed on the 23", the other on the MBP scree) it suddenly changes from off-color or oversaturated to the correct color on the 23". If I then move the image up to the 23" again, the wrong display colors appear again.
    I am at a loss: I have spent a lot of money on the gorgeous screen, the great printer, and Aperture (which is a great program), but I cannot get Aperture to print reliably, or rather, I cannot get Aperture to use the right display profile to display the image correctly in a reliable way.
    I have read kbeat's color management blog and many entries on this blog here, but I have not found a solution. I appreciate your help.

    Kai,Simon,
    This is the problem i have been having.Colour profiling is correct,prints are rubbish.I run a fuji frontier
    as well as epson printers.Anything from aperture is not what you see on screen.I am running aperture2.1.
    Today we are removing 2.1 and doing a reinstall of 1.1 but not upgrading to 2 to test run prints.I have been looking for answers to this for sometime.
    Simon,the problems we are have are very similar to you clients,photoshop fine,aperture not.I also have 20"external apple monitor attached which is used as the colour correcting monitor ( as the imac screen is not that good for criticl work ) I will post my findings here.
    Simon, if you wish to investigate further,e-mail me,i am in leeds
    daisy ( not a happy printer )

  • Mogrify ICC Profile problem

    I have been using Mogrify on export from LR, and I love it. Only one problem. On B&W conversions, when I open them in PS, I get an error box saying "The embedded ICC profile cannot be used because the ICC profile is invalid. Ignoring the profile." Clicking on OK, it will open, but it is Grayscale instead of RGB. I only have to click on Image>Mode>RGB to get it back to normal, but we do a LOT of B&W, and it would be nice not to have to do this every time.
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    Hi Marty,
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  • Acrobat 9 Pro....Distiller / ICC Profile Problem

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    Adobe Tech support was most helpful on this.  First download the updated
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  • 5800 XM WPA-PSK and network profiles problem

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    Ok, I was testing the wifi part without a sim card inserted, with a sim, the phone connects to the profile properly, but without the sim it has an odd behavior, not loading the profile and wrongly stating that it can't connect when it does (but disconnects randomly).
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  • Colour profiles problem - images saving too dull. Please help.

    I realise you have probably had this question a million times before and I have looked at enough related threads, but I am still at a loss as to what to do. Please note I'm not the most computer-savvy.
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    I made my edits anyway, saved for web as .jpg, checked the jpg in Photo Gallery before uploading... It saved duller than it should have done!
    Uploaded the jpg to the internet... and I have the dull image uploaded.
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    Being an artist who displays work online and has a certain reliance on the internet... my images have to be accurate and consistent all the way through. Is there anything I can do to set things back to the way they were before?
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    eartho - All my images are already converted to the sRGB colourspace by default, as far as I can tell. My images out of camera, the ones I have edited and saved as jpg - I even checked some old images. Through Mode/Convert to Profile, they're all already set to sRGB.
    emil emil - Thank you. I will do that in the morning - right now my head hurts and I need my bed.

  • CUPS - Conferencing profil problem

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  • 6500 classic-Profiles problem

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    Knowledge not shared is knowledge wasted!
    If you find it helpfull, it's not hard to click the STAR..

  • Print driver/color profile problems after 2.0 update

    Since I updated to the latest version of aperture 2 I have had problems with printing on my canon 5200R printer. The coloring is way off, as if aperture does not seem to recognize the canon print drivers or color profiles. I have read about printing from another program but was so happy with color quality using aperture 1.5, is there a fix for the current problem?

    Bump.

  • Display Calibration Creates Color Profile Problems.

    I haven't received any response out of the MBP Display forum and I thought you guys might have better insight anyway because you are dealing with color calibration more often. Here it is:
    I used colorsync utility to calibrate my monitor, hoping it would at least get the colors more accurate than they are with the "Color LCD" profile. The Color LCD profile has a bad yellow tinge to it. I went through the process 4 times so I would be able to choose the best profile out of the 4. (Now I can't delete the extra profiles but I guess that is a different topic...) The color accuracy and the gray-tone is MUCH better BUT I have a slight (understatement) saturation problem.
    My problem is after using Color Sync, ALL of my REDS are oversaturated and blown out. There is a problem with the blues and greens as well but it isn't as bad. Of course, they look fine in non color managed applications (ie FireFox) but everything else makes my photos look horrible. Even the RAW files straight out of the camera look blown out.
    I had, at first edited these files on a PC so they always looked fine but now that I have switched to Mac I have noticed how oversaturated they are in all of its color managed applications. (Safari, preview, and even the desktop.) I thought perhaps that I had just pumped up the contrast and saturation too high on the PC and the color profile was now creating a problem because the color was set for an un-profiled file. BUT after viewing the unaltered .NEF's straight out of my camera, they too are oversaturated.
    Now, I have some wallpapers I had downloaded from the web that look the same as before. It is just MY OWN photographs that are oversaturated. Obviously I have chosen the wrong color profile or something is wrong with my workflow. The wallpaper that looks the same doesn't have a profile assigned it when I view-info. It just labels the color space as RGB. All my photos that have problems, have a color profile assigned. I am using sRGB as recommended. There are a few still using Adobe RGB (which is what my camera defaults to) and they have the same oversaturation problem.
    Aperture is set to export with an sRGB profile and CS2 uses sRGB as well.
    Any advice? What monitor and color management profile's are you guys using?
    I can't tell what is right anymore. What should I edit my photos to look good in? The only MONITOR profile that doesn't blow them out is Adobe/Apple RGB, Color LCD, and a few of the other default installed profiles.
    I've got a bad case of color vertigo!

    sorry uberfoto, did not get what MBP meant at first.
    what Jan says about color calibration tool is right....and start again from the RAW.....
    i am photographer in the advertisement, reportage, portraits and landscape.
    my problem was to get the thinks printed as I saw them on the screen.
    here what I have to say on that (part of another discussion):
    ".... Sorry, but no AppleTFT Display comes close to a hardware calibrated display. Maybe they are semi-professional. I do not say this to insult Apple, ore somebody else, but i say this to sway out the illusion of , " if I just spend more money on the calibration tool and software, I´ll have better prints". It´s just not possible, because the display cant show what is there. A Apple CRT Studio Display is far better in this. I you want to have a flat-screen TFT Display to bring good results, you have to choose one that is able to be hardware calibrated and has a higher lookup table (EIZO, LaCie, QuatoGrafics......)
    I use use one professional EIZO CG21" and one semi-prof. EIZO FlexScanL985EX(21") and the diffrence is important between the two.
    But i need only one to be Print Proof ready.
    Before i was always afraid when i gave the picture file to my client, because of what my pictures look like once it is printed. Now the outcome is right or differs only very little from what I saw on the screen. my calibration tool is EYE ONE. "..
    BUT your main problem is how it looks in the web.
    my thoughts and suggestion on this:
    1. most people see the web on PC Display. those use a gamma of 2.2
    (apple = 1.8) so pictures appear more blue with more contrast. this setting is made to hide the low ability of the system and display to show colors as they are and give and give crispy impression. So you will have to consider this when you prepare the pictures for the web. therefor the standard calibration of your MBP is best for your needs. ( for printing the Display has to be set on 5.600 kelvin ,that would be to warm 4 the wwweb).
    2.
    a) In the beginning I use Aperture 1.5 (or Lightroom) to select and prepare the pictures as I like them.
    b) then I export them in 8 bit/300 dpi in the size they will be used as PSD or TIFF.
    c) I will then open them in Photoshop (color-settings=web /internet) make the cleaning and so on.( 4 the web I always increase the saturation because sRGB and JPG will throw away lots of colors).
    d) AND NOW "save for the web ". This is definitely the best tool to prepare pictures for the web. on the right upper part of the window there is a flash-open menu where you may choose to see the colors like in windows or macintosh system.
    and on the lower right of the application-window there is a roll-down menu where you may preview the results in different browsers of your choice.
    It is here where you can produce amazing high Q pictures 4 the web under 100 kb.
    Hope this may help.
    good luck,
    larry
    G5 dual 2.3/4,5 gigRam/ATI 9600 128MB-PB G4 12"   Mac OS X (10.4.2)   EIZO CG 21"+EIZO L985ex 21"
    G5 dual 2.3/4,5 gigRam/ATI 9600 128MB-PB G4 12"   Mac OS X (10.4.2)   EIZO CG 21"+EIZO L985ex 21"
    G5 dual 2.3/4,5 gigRam/ATI 9600 128MB-PB G4 12"   Mac OS X (10.4.2)   EIZO CG 21"+EIZO L985ex 21"

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