PSU for the HP s5300z

I am putting a new video card into my s5300z and need to add power. I understnad this pc has 220W and the new vid card requires 350W. How do you add to the PSU? Does the current one get pulled and a new one put in it place or do you simply add an additional PSU to bump up the power. Are there any instructions on doing this anywhere?

You can only replace the power supply. www.newegg.com has some nice Corsair power supplies. You will have to do some measuring since you have a slimline chassis to ensure what you buy will fit.
The s5300z has NVIDIA GT220 as an option. I don't know if a bigger ps was required for that video card.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Similar Messages

Any Recommended cpu Fans or PSU for the k8T master 2

I've got the motherboard working but does any one with a k8t master 2 could you recommend any better cpu fans for the motherboard i don't really like the ones that came with it
thanks

As for the powersupply, the best is the Enemax 465, little bit hard to get, but does the best job.
See my sig for the details.

Quest for the Ultra-Quiet PSU

Is anyone prepared to swear by any particular unit?
I can only speak to the Corsair HX1050 Gold, and while it's quiet enough on low-load tasks, there's no mistaking it for "whisper quiet" when playing video. Depending on background noise levels and whether audio is playing, that noise may not be noted. By its an unmistakable engine when playing HD video in a quiet room without an audio track. The source appears to be the PSU fan, and the sound insulation in the case doesn't appear to be much help.
How typical is this?

See the following noise curve from Newegg for the HX1050:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139034
And here is one for the new, very configurable, and pretty expensive AX1200i (I have theAX1200 which does not have the user configurable load vs. fan speed capability):
http://www.corsair.com/power-supply-units/ax-series-power-supply-units/ax1200i-digital-atx -power-supply-1200-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-psu.html
So, let's say you are really pulling 450 watts.
For the AX1200i you would be at 37.5% load and from the chart, 10db (pretty darn quiet)
For your HX1050, you would be 43% loaded and from the chart at about 25db; every 3db of sound level makes a significant difference, so 15db is certainly substantial
Their charts show fan speed per load, but I'm pretty sure the fan speed is actually thermostatically controlled, so if the inlet for your p/s is getting warm air, it will be running faster for a given load.
My p/s is pulling air from underneath the case so it is the same temperature as the room. If yours is configured with the inlet from inside the case, then that air will indeed be warmer. For my Coolermaster case, I can choose which way the p/s is installed; your case may or may not allow for this mounting option.
Jim

Building a system for the first time

I recently posted a few weeks back about buying a system from either Dell or HP http://forums.adobe.com/thread/732545?tstart=0. I quickly learned that those systems were not going to fit my need based on my budget. So, I decided after researching components that I will build a computer by hand for the first time. I am still operating on a budget of around $1000, but I'm giving the budget a bit of flexibility so I don't limit my options. I am a hobbyist who only has experience using Power Director on my laptop, but I had a lot of fun editing for the first time and I want to step up my game. With the new system, I plan to use adobe premiere cs5 and after effects. I will capture my video from either an HD Helmet cam or HD flip format is MPEG-4 AVC/H.264. So where I need help is selecting the right things to optimize my performance. The following is a list of items I'm looking with their prices. Please help me decide what will be right for me. Open to any combo of suggestions or comments. Thanks!
Processor
Intel i7 930 $200 microcenter
Intel i7 950 $230 microcenter
I don't know if I want overclock yet, but it sounds like a good idea. $30 for the upgrade to the i7 950 seems pretty good. ro do I use the money elsewhere?
Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R $210
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128423
Seems like a good mobo. Are there any features that this board lacks that I should look for in another board? Also, newegg offers significant deals on "open box" products. Is this a good way to go?
Ram
I have a few questions for this selection. I've currently budgeted approximately $250 for ram. I'm looking at going with 12GB. I certainly don't have the budget for 24GB, but what about 16GB?
Do I look for 1333 or 1600? 2GB or 4GB sticks? Would I be fine if I bought say 2 packs of 6GB ram, both same manufacturer and same type or would I want to buy 1 pack of 12GB?
GPU
Nvidia Geforce gtx 460 1GB $220
Is it worth it to go to the 470? I know it's a better card but being a budget is really worth the upgrade or can I get away with a 460?
Any recomendations for a 460 as there are many in the same price range?
Drives
I see these drives priced in the $55 range which would leave at around $220 for the lot of em
These are the drives I'm looking at as they are highly recommended on this board:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3
WD Caviar Black
Right now, I plan to buy 4 drives. Do I want 4 of the exact same? or say 1 cavier black for os/ programs and 3 samsung f3 for pagefile/scratch/renders? Can I also get a brief description of what these are too? Also, could have a 500gb for os/programs and 1tb for the rest or would it be advisable for 1tb for all? or 500gb for all?
I don't think I can do a raid setup based on my budget, but I saw this as an option on the thread for storage rules is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip. I don't know really anything about this, but what would the price be to explore this option?
Case
Cooler Master Storm Scout $90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119196
I picked this case for a few reasons. I seem move about every 6 months so the handles on top would be very useful, and it seems to have good cooling. I know a full size case is recommended, but they seem to be significantly more.
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm SSO CPU Cooler $75
Everywhere I look this cooler seems to get great reviews. I figure it could be a good idea to get a good cooler if I get a mid-tower case.
The only other option I can think of for case/cooling is to combine the budgeted price for both and look at different options like a full size case with a less quality cooler. Is this a better option
PSU
Looking into an 850 W power supply. I figure to budget $80 towards as I've seen a few in that range
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817517003
so would something like this work?
Final Thoughts
So, when you add it all up its about $1350. First question, how does this look overall? Nothing I've chosen is obviously overkill, but is there anything I can afford to go cheaper on? or anything I should invest more into?
Thanks again to everyone for the help. The resources, info and people on this forum have just been awesome.

Seems like we are planning very similar PCs. My build is going to be for: amateur video editing including animation mainly with CS5, application design and coding mainly with MS Visual Studio 2008, HTPC (until I build a cheap dedicated unit for the TV), general family computing. I am new to this stuff, but can at least share some pricing and my decision making process so far.
Here is what I have selected so far regarding the parts:
MotherBoard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R x58
Seems like one of the lower cost x58 MBs and has some decent reviews. Wait for a sale, you should be able to find this for around $180.00. That is how much I got it for from New Egg (straight up with savings code no rebate), should be arriving on my doorstep tomorrow. Also, I think Fry's has it now for $170.00 in store, but that includes a $20.00 rebate and tax.
PowerSupply: Corsair TX650W
Some might think this is on the low side. On the other hand, I have gotten other conflicting advice, stating that many people overestimate their actual power needs. So who knows. I have read that a PSU works more efficient when it is matched to the power needs - meaning that a 1000w PSU that is generally seeing 200w usage might not be so efficient. Anyway, I got the PSU for $50.00 from New Egg (with rebate), and it has a good reputation, so we will see how it goes.
Graphics Card: GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5
I was planning on a lower cost card, but then noticed this card for sale over the weekend for $178.00 (with rebate), so I ordered one. I have read the GTX460 has reasonable power requirements, and can be made to take advantage of CUDA/Mercury with CS5 (although haven't done much research into that). This particular version based on reviews, seems fairly quite with the twin fans. It's possible I overspent a bit on this card considering my needs, time will tell.
Here is what I am planning to purchase:
CPU: i7 930
I am fortunate to live near a Fry's and MicroCenter ($200.00). From reading the forum, seems like this is generally the lowest CPU folks go in terms of building an editing machine. I understand the argument that for only $30.00 more, one can upgrade to the i7 950. On the other hand, that argument could be made for many of the components, and then before you know it, a little extra here and there, and the budget is shot:) So I am planning to draw the line at the 930.
Here are my undecided’s:
Memory
I am up in the air between 6or12gig/module compatibility/cost. But one thing for you to keep in mind, is the official memory certified for the motherboard you select. For the Gigabyte motherboard, I missed out on a recent RAM deal, because the RAM was not officially certified for the board. Some people tell me this is important, while others say "RAM is RAM" and no big deal. Something to consider.
HardDrives
Same as you, considering the Samsung Spinpoint F3. Good prices now at MicroCenter on the 16MB cache models in 500 and 1TB sizes. I just don't know if larger cache sizes are important or not, since they are also offered in 32MB and higher.
Anyway, good luck with your build and hope it works well.

A Problem for the Ages...

OK. I'm incredibly frustrated right now, and am facing the damndest computer problem I have ever seen in my entire life. Some people thrive when confronted by incredibly difficult problems, I just get really pissed off because my computer ought to behave, and it isn't. So here is my LONG story, and I hope there people here who thrive on solving bizarre, inexplicable PC problems:
Two weeks ago, my computer turned itself off in the middle of the night. It was on and fine when I went into bed; when I woke up it was off. I turned it on, and just before it reaches the "Windows XP" loading banner, it restarts itself. This is repeated every time.
When I try using Safe Mode (I tried all Safe Modes, normal, last known good, networking, command prompt, etc) the same damn thing happens. It starts loading device drivers, gets to "/DRIVERS/MUP.SYS" and restarts. (I later copied MUP.SYS from my dad's XP Pro computer to my hard drive, but problem persists)
I tried booting off the Windows XP boot cd. It hangs when it's at the blue screen that reads "Setup is starting Windows..." every time.
So I then began removing peripherals. I tried just one hard drive, my PCI video card (recently sold my AGP card and was working with an old PCI Voodoo3), and my one stick of PC3200 RAM. Same thing.
I changed the RAM, using a PC2700 stick. Same thing. I removed the hard drive so that only my CD-ROM was connected to the motherboard. I booted off the CD, it STILL freezes at that screen (see above).
I took my hard drive and placed it in another computer. It booted fine, up to the Windows Log-in screen (I did not log in because I did not want Windows to start modifying itself according to the other computer's hardware).
So I tried different video cards, AGP and PCI. Same deal. One strange thing that happens is that sometimes, when I try to start the computer, it gives me one long beep, pauses a few seconds, and repeats the beep again and again. There is no POST code consisting of one repeated, long beep, not according to Phoenix AwardBIOS' website (they make my BIOS). I have to turn the machine on and off a few times, and then it starts up fine. Sometimes this doesn't happen at all and it boots up fine.
Finally I RMA'd my motherboard. The new motherboard came in today. I hooked her all up, and guess what? SAME PROBLEM!!! Obviously the motherboard is not at issue here.
Again, the motherboard in it right now is A NEW ONE that has just been RMA'd from MSI. It shows some wear so it clearly is refurbished, but the BIOS has just been flashed with the latest revision, etc., and they have tested it and everything so I think the possibility of a BIOS reflash being the solution is even more remote than overheating.
I tried a second PSU. No dice.
One more thing of note: my C:\ is an NTFS drive. A normal bootdisk can't access it, so it certainly can't FDISK or CHKDSK or anything else to it. I have tried to find a way to create an NTFS-compatible bootdisk (even followed instructions on Microsoft's site) and they don't allow me commandprompt-level access to the NTFS drive.
In that vein I will also point out that I don;t think it's the hard drive. I booted my hard drive in another machine and it was fine; I then took another machine's hard drive and put it in mine, and had the same problem.
I'm completely at my wit's end here. Again the other damning thing, which I mentioned above, is the spontaneous tendency of the motherboard to beep. A single, long, loud beep, repeated consistently on boot, and no video being shown on the monitor. I reboot a few times, same thing, reboot again, it works fine. Why? ? This has happened on BOTH motherboards, my original and this new, RMA'd motherboard (same model of course).
At this point I am at my wit's end. Anyone got any ideas???
Edited for language...
SYSTEM SPECS:
AMD Athlon XP 2600+ (Barton)
MSI K7N2-Delta (MS-6570-020 model #) motherboard
One 512mb stick of PC3200 RAM, Corsair Value Select
Western Digital Hard Drive (120gb) special edition (primary hdd)
Maxtor 20gb Hard Drive (secondary, nonbootable hdd)
Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy 2 PCI
SMI 2602W Wireless Networking Card PCI
3dfx Voodoo3 3000 PCI (also tried VOodoo3 2000 PCI, eVGA GeForce 2 Ti4200, all same results)
Pioneer 115 DVD-ROM
ASUS 50x/48/24 CD-RW

Ok. Relax. Take a deep breath and avoid beeing near any mace; who knows it could be found in your case by "accident".
What I'm about to say is REALLY really basic. Even dumb.
Next time you have such a problem, try to go for the obvious first; Check your CPU fan. Saved me a few hours of scratching alot of times. Test your ram with memtest86+ http://www.memtest.org without any HD in.
Next, check for the latest BIOS in. Now if everything is cool there, it MUST be your software that has a problem. XP often boot differently when on another system, be careful.
I'd look into a nice backup/format XP thing. Takes some time, but might erraticate the suffering. Anyways, keep me posted.

PSU for K8T Neo-FIS2R

What model of PSU has its cooling fans which can be controlled from PWFAN1 and PWFAN2 on the K8T Neo-FIS2R motherboard?
Kaz

Sorry but there is no real specific one out there that I have ever seen. Most of the Bios options you see have been available since forever with Via Chipsetted boards. However DOT is specific to MSI which is Dynamic Overclocking technolodies. DOT can automatically overclock your voard depending one what your doing. I recommend staying away from it as it can cause as many issues as anything in your rig. And then there is Cool and Quiet which is an AMD 64 Bit CPU specific option to downclock the multipliers for the CPU during Idle Times to save energy and keep the CPU cool. Again it is not really needed.
The rest of the stuff you can use google to find individually or by searching for Award Bios's or Via Chipset Bios settings.
These are way to much for any one person to post a complete guide to here as all the info is readily available elsewhere.

PSU for 11.2.0.2.2

Apologies if this is a stupid question, but...
I'm looking to upgrade my 11.2.0.2 RDBMS and GI home to the latest PSU (11.2.0.2.2). However, I'm a bit confused as to which patch I need to apply.
The 11.2.0.2.2 PSU for RDBMS is 11724916
The 11.2.0.2.2 PSU for GI is 12311357
Should I run patch 12311357 on BOTH my GI and RDBMS home? The readme for 12311357 indicates that I should install 12311357 (which is the PSU for GI 11.2.0.2.2) which contains the 11.2.0.2.2 database PSU on both homes. However, that would mean we're installing the GI software on top of the RDBMS software.
Have I got this correct?

FYI, I discovered that I do need to apply 12311357 on both homes (which supersedes the 11724916 patch).

PSU for Windows 64?

Hello,
We have 11.2.0.2 for Windows 64 installed. I am unable to find ANY PSUs for Windows. I cannot find 11.2.0.2.5 , or 11.2.0.2 or any others (ie 11.2.0.2.7 for example).
Do they not exist for Windows? They for the other platforms (ie LINUX). I have tried in vain to find anything other than patches for 11.2.0.2.0.
Does anyone know why this is? I can certainly upgrade to 11.2.0.3. But where are the PSUs for Windows?
Anyone know what the deal is?
Thanks

damorgan wrote:
I have forwarded a link to this thread to someone at Oracle support ... hopefully she can help.
If not with the PSU ... with fixing the website so we can all find things.
Note to the community ... having problems finding patches at MOS? If so please send me a short email describing the issue you are having and I will forward them to the right person. Information to include in your email:
1. What were you looking for?
2. Did you already know the patch number?
3. Did you already know a bug number?
4. In your opinion why were you unable to find the patch?
Thank you.Problems finding patches at MOS? Really?
Don't get me started ..... oopsies - too late! ;-)
Log on to MOS
Patches & Updates
Patch Search
Product or Family (advanced)
Field: product is <select a product> - list is too big and slow to load. Should be a drill down through a hierarchical list?
And release is <> - list is greyed out – non-selectable
And platform is <select list> - select LInx x86-64
Returns “no patches found”
Really? No database patches for Linux x86-64?
OK, change from platform= to type=patchset.
Returns “no patches found”
Really?
Pretty much the only way I've been able to find something is if I discover an actual patch number mentioned in a forum message .... or have a bug number that is published and then cross references back to a patch number. But even that doesn't seem to be dependable, though I don't have a specific example at hand.

PSU for OCing

Hi everyone. I want to get a SLI setup soon with AMD Athlon 64 3200+ (90nm, oc to somewhere about 2.4-2.6) 2x GeForce 6800U, 1GB PC4400 RAM, WD Raptor,etc.
But I have a dilema about the PSU. These are my options:
Enermax:
http://www.enermax.com.tw/products_page.php?Tid=1&gon=241&Gid=18&Gid2=25
PC Power and Cooling:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_166&products_id=2133&osCsid=de21dc783c0728db96918737c69b333d
Ultra X Connect:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_223&products_id=2128&osCsid=de21dc783c0728db96918737c69b333d
I can get the Enermax here, but the PC Power and Cooling and Ultra I'd have to order from the USA. This means another 39$ for shipping and 20$ for Western Union money transfer. So, which PSU?
The thing why I'm afraid to get the Enemax is because a lot of people have problems with dual rails.
Thanks a lot.

http://www.powmax.com/
Click on the Power link. Hmmmm.. Why would powmax advertise Ultra?? unless they're some how related. ANyhow this is where i found it ( sry for link to other forum.
http://www.hardforum.com/showindex.php?t=836194
Take it how you will. Like I said mine has been fine, so far.I just don't care for Powmax.
Antec and Enermax are reputable brands, you will be satified with either. The neopower has the modular power connectors which may be desirable to you.
LKS

HP Z400 600W PSU, reduce the noise?

Hello, i bought the 600W psu a few months ago because i wanted to have a great graphic card.
But i think the noise from the computer is way to loud. Im verry sure its the PSU since the 475W version was verry quiet when i tried it.
Can i do anything to reduce the noise from this thing? Open it, replace the fan to a better one perhaps?
I know there are some people who have managed to get a ATX PSU into their HP z400 using a "HP Z400 PSU to standard atx adaptor" but i dont really know how to build a cable like that... Its probably easy but i have no knowledge about things like this.
https://plus.google.com/photos/111388964237560787781/albums/5362166283613539361
If anyone could buid this cable for me and i could buy it i would really appreciate it! Becuase then i could use whatever ATX PSU out there?

Hi,
You might get better assistance on the HP Enterprise Business Forum since you have a professional workstation.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Minimum ratings of PSU for 6800 Standard?

I have just received MSI Geforce 6800 and found the package that says it requires at least 350 watts. My case has 350 watts but it is called Eagle with:
3.3v - 28A
5v - 35A
12V - 16A
The case which comes with 350w I bought one and half year ago and it is worth cheap £30 therefore PSU is cheap and nasty? I'm not sure whether to go ahead and buy a proper PSU but I would have to order from England as the computer shops in N Irelands are crap!
As you might wonder why I am posting this. After installing 6800 card, my computer is running with 3DMark03 test but then last night during Troll's Cave in CPU testing freezes & unresponsive so I had to reset my computer. Today, I started running 3DMark03 but the text looks fuzzy or something...I had to stop it for the sake of my 6800.
Could PSU be responsible for it? I just wished that MSI should state the PSU minimum requirement so that I can make order for both card and PSU at the same time.
Thanks in advance

Quote
Originally posted by Sartori
Hello
I also was wondering about this, heres a thread I started but didn't get much for replies. It is hard too know what too do alright. I guess just overkill would solve any issues or questions one had about psu rating.
Antec PS question
What more do you want? Wonkanoby said it short and neat.
I'll elaborate...
For starters, looking at your hardware in that link you provided, I would never match up my current hardware (investment) with that power supply except in the minimalistic conditions. Such as just one drive, one optical and a midrange VGA card, perhaps a sound card, but that's about it. The voltages you supplied are from idle? Perhaps you should download and install MBM5 and get an average over time as MBM5 does that.
Run a graphic intensive game for an hour or so, then look at the average in MBM5 on the 12v rail, then you will get a good idea of the load capabilities.
IMHO that is bare butt minimum for your system and you increase the risk of damaging your investment when you push a PSU beyond it's capabilities. Don't forget that if you have poor cooling, the PSU's efficiency drops and you are not getting the rated power. Seems as if you don't have a cooling problem as you don't have any problems.
Yes, overkill is a good thing when it comes to a $100 part that is the heart of your investment costing upwards of $1000. Seems a small pennance for proper operation and a peice of mind.

Looking for advice for the next step

I am having problem with stability when I overclock my system.
I am trying to clock my system by the guidelines of the above sticky
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=40413&sid=
and these other threads
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=29142&sid=&threadview=0&hilight=&hilightuser=0&page=1
and
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=42515&sid=
I change my setting to:
DRAM freq = 333
CPU clock = 250
Spread Spectrum = off
AGP/PCI freq = 66/33
CPU VCore = 1.6v
DDR Volatage = 2.7v
AGP Voltage = 1.55v
Mem - 2-3-3-7 burst length 4
AGP Aperature = 64MB
Set PAT to Slow
When I run my cpu/case temp never gets over 56C/33C respectivily, but when I run SiSoftware Sandra Standard 2004 burn in test the system crashes after ~10mins. Also if I run Memtest86 at these setting the sysem crashes after ~10min
Also, if I bump the cpu clock to 271 to get the memory running at 434MHz (which the memory is rated too) I get the memory timing too tight boot error.
I am beginning to thinking my memory has problems, since it won't run at 434Mhz
-Fazle
p.s. I am updated to the latest bios 2.0

If you can enable HT than it must be P4 2.4c (G seems for the giga Hz).
I'm using the Core Center which are not usual in this forum (since you also can adjust it manually on the bios or using clockgen software or else).
My final FSB result using CC is 246 - 247 mHz.(Although the result before automatic rebooting is 251 mHz), so depend on the CPU quality (not all the CPU with the same mark P4 2.4c have the same quality of OCing) is more likely you have stability problem between 245 - 250 mHz using manual setting by 1 mHz.
On the other word by reducing the FSB is more likely you can be stable.(since you already have high Vcore and moderate Vdimm and not stable on 250 mHz).
Try to found out yoursef by testing it step by step and find the best FSB setting for your Mobo with regard of memory timing, Vcore, Vdimm.
M/B 865 PE Neo-2 PFS Platinum Edition
CPU:P4 2.4C (HT enable) and ThermalTake SubZero 4G
(Commander,Turbo,2434 mHz - 2760 mHz)
Memory: Corsair XMS 3500 2x512 meg (dual-channel dimm 1 and 3)
VGA:ELSA Gladiac 925 Ti4600
HD:2 SATA Maxtor 80gig and 1 ATA Maxtor 80Gig
CD/RW Yamaha and Pioneer DVD
PSU:ThermalTake Silent PurePower 480W (W0010/Black)
+5 V/40 A, +3.3 V/30 A, +12 V/18 A, -5 V/0.3 A, -12 V/0.8 A, +5 VSB/2 A Peak Load 550 W
Window XP SP1
NEC FP2141SB
Microsoft DesktopPro
Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Platinum + Klipsch Promedia 4.1

12c Upgrade patch requirement for the preupgrade console

Instructions for the preupgrade console patch, "Apply the preupgrade console patch on your existing Enterprise Manager system to get access to the Enterprise Manager 12c Upgrade Console" specify that PSU3 (9282397) or later must be applied. What qualifies as "or later". Running opatch lsinventory shows patches of lower numbers only.
Thanks!
Randy Kennedy

Hi Randy,
"PSU3 (9282397) or later" in this case means PSU3 or a newer EM 10.2.0.5 PSU (Patch Set Update); for example, PSU4 (9786002) or PSU5 (10168579).
Regards,
- Loc

Do we still need the PSU with the -5v (on pin 20)?

The reason I'm asking is I've heard that this has been changed (corrected) by MSI.
I've seen posts by some that claim they are using Antec PSU's with no problems, the Antec's do not have the -5v to my knowledge.
Thanks!

Compression: DB statistics and DB indexes for the InfoCubes are less relevant once you use the BI Accelerator. In the standard case, you could even completely forgo these processes. However, note the following aspects:
Compression is still necessary for inventory InfoCubes, for InfoCubes with a significant number of cancellation requests,
and for InfoCubes with a high number of partitions in the F-table. Note that compression requires DB statistics and DB
indexes (P-index).
DB statistics are necessary in particular for real-time InfoCubes and reading the most current data.
DB Indexes (index on the time dimension) are necessary in particular if the E fact table is not partitioned. Note also that you
need compressed and indexed InfoCubes with up-to-date statistics whenever you switch off the BI Accelerator index.
DB Indexes (index on the time dimension) are necessary in particular if the E fact table is not partitioned.
Note also that you need compressed and indexed InfoCubes with up-to-date statistics whenever you switch off the BI
Accelerator index.
Please refer to the below link for useful information on BIA.
http://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/sdn/bi?rid=/library/uuid/11c4b71d-0a01-0010-5ca0-aadc2415b137#q-3-2
Hope this helps.

UPS for the G5's

I wrote APC for their recommended UPS for a G5. $839, dedicated 20 amp service! We just added $1000 to the cost of owning a G5! Here is there response. What are the rest of you doing? Blind sided, Bill
Response (Patricia Mandelare) - 08/22/2006 10:45 AM
Dear Bill,
Thank you for contacting APC's email support on 08/21/2006 04:46 PM. I would be happy to assist you. I apologize for the length of time it has taken to receive a response from us.
I did some research on the new Apple PowerMac G5 for a previous customer and found we only recommend Smart-UPS units for Dual G5 or Xserve MACs. A Back-UPS RS 1500 most likely would go into overload with this server attached. A Smart-UPS 2200 would be adequate to power this computer. The Apple PowerMac G5 has a large inrush current when waking up and going into sleep mode. The Smart-UPS 2200 should be able to cover the inrush current when this server wakes up or goes into sleep mode. The Smart-UPS 2200 (APC model number SUA2200) would be at approximately 38% of its capacity and provide approximately 38 minutes of runtime for your G5 PowerMac. You may click on the link below to view the technical specifications for the SUA2200:
http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspecindex.cfm?basesku=SUA2200
Please be aware that the SUA2200 has a NEMA 5-20 input plug. This is a 120 volt 20 AMP T-shaped plug and it does require a dedicated 120 volt 20 AMP circuit in order to draw the full 2,200 VA capacity of the unit.
If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me by responding to this incident. It would be my pleasure to ensure that your issue is quickly resolved!
Solutions to most common customer problems can be found in our APC Knowledge Base which can be found at:
http://nam-en.apc.com/cgi-bin/namen.cfg/php/enduser/stdalp.php?ISOCountryCode=us
In the event that you require additional APC solutions, please check out the link to my personal APC Web Commerce page below:
http://buy.apc.com/commerce/storefronts/caps/default.aspx?StorefrontCode=ecaps&C ountryCode=us&EmpName=pmandelare
From this page you can take advantage of APC's Trade-UPS program, (Customers may trade in old UPS(s) regardless of brand, for new APC UPS(s), with a full 2 year warranty at up to a 35% discount!. As a benefit to our customers, now you can also buy additional APC accessories including Netbotz, at a significant discount, if purchased along with your Trade-UPS.), You can also view weekly specials, purchase replacement batteries for both UPS units and laptop computers, and also purchase from APC's Factory Outlet Store.
Thank you for choosing APC!

Grab a APC 1500VA Smart UPS (black unit). It supports USB, has 8 AC outlets, and is NEMA 5-15P on the UPS cable (standard wall plug).
Loads with a Quad, 7800GT and 3GB RAM is about 35% with dual LCD monitors and a Z5500 5.1 Speaker setup. G5 reports about 28 minutes of runtime at this load.
System never goes above 40% at full load. There is a small inrush current that bumps it up to about 40-45%, but nothing major or to even consider worrying about.
It's never overloaded the UPS (red overload LED + Alarm), even when you turn the UPS off and back on, and everything attached to it comes back on all at once (including the G5).
I've easily ran 2 additional P4/Opteron systems off the same UPS with no troubles.
APC is talking bollocks when they recommend a 2200VA unit, and a 20 Amp service. The G5 I think is rated at 10 Amps *maximum*, and anything over that would probably fry the PSU. I doubt that it would hit half of that even with 16GB of RAM.
The unit is about $300-$500 I think these days. I wouldn't run anything that says Back-UPS because of quality issues, personally. Definately grab a Smart-UPS for a G5 at the minimum, but that's just my opinion.
-S'Captain

PSU for the HP s5300z

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