PSU Question

I've read a lot in the forum about weak power supplies causing a lot of problems. I honestly don't know too much about PSUs, but this is what I have:
AHEAD Model SH-350 Version 2.03
350W Max
3.3V @ 28A
5V @ 32A
Combined 220W
Can somebody tell me if this is sufficient or any good? If not, any suggestions on a new one?
BTW, I've also had problems with certain games (WC3, The Sims, etc) crashing to the desktop. At the time of the problems I was running this:
Asus A7A266 MoBo
1.4 Athlon
256MB DDR PC2100
5400RPM 30Gig
DVD-Rom
CD-RW
Sound Blaster Live! Value
Radeon VE 32MB (don't worry, my TI4200 will arrive tomorrow)
Win98 SE
Under those conditions, do you think my power supply was the problem?
I am currently doing some upgrades:
120GB Maxtor 7200 8MB HDD
additional 256 DDR PC2100
48X CD-RW
MSI GF4 TI-4200 TD8X-64
WinXP Pro
Hopefully these upgrades will solve my crashing problem. But does anyone see a potential problem with my PSU after those upgrades?
Thank you for all your help!

I do not have a link to the maker. I purchased my computer from CyberPower Inc. with a 350W PSU...I did not have the option of choosing a brand.
But I take it that brand is important?

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omnikron: Perhaps you haven't read "Rules of the Forum", as people like you, hate rules other than your's, but I'll reproduce a part for you to read:
" No racial / sexual / age / political related remarks or declarations allowed. In the "everything under the sun" (off topic) forum you may post jokes of the above nature, however if a moderator thinks the joke to be over the line and/or gets complaints from users it can/will be removed" So please remove the moving message and the words at the begining of your signature as they aren't related with it.

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Hey guys
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http://www.casetech.co.uk/ENERMAX-Noisetaker-370W-Power-Supply-Model-EG375AX-VEG-p-17070.html
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Input Frequency Range: 47Hz~63Hz
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Ruud00,
That Power Supply is getting a little small for today's performance comps.
I think it should power your current comp but leaves little room for future upgrades.
Take Care,
Richard

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Hi
I have read a lot in these forums about the issues arose with the K8N-PLATINUM NF4U SLI board and the PSUs most of the users have.
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Thanks for your reply blazing storm but many people here talk all about a "safe minimum of 24A on the 12V trail".
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Treebeard, you just need to utilize either CPU1 or CPU2. The 4-pin CPU input is sufficient. CPU1 give 4-pin; CPU2 give another 4-pin. Adding them up = 8-pin for Extreme Edition CPUs. Depends on what CPU you have, if you have Pentium D Presler > 3.2Ghz, it's better to use 8-pin. Below that, 4-pin is just fine.

PSU Question on an MSI K8N Neo4 Plat

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Quote from: jrb357 on 25-March-05, 14:30:21
Well if your True 430 is of the newer vers. with 26a on the +12v you should be just fine. I'm running one and things seem stable for the most part, other then that 220fsb OC issue with the Neo4 and Winnie's, but it OC's 270fsb x9 totally stable with Clockgen and with a 10% OC on the vid card scores a 4100 in 3DMark 2005. It has a minor studdering in some 3D games, that makes me wonder if a psu with the 24pin connector would help stablize it in 3D games just alittle. So i'd say if you already own the psu go ahead and use it, but if you're looking for a new one I'd think about a different psu that has the 24pin mobo connection with a minimum of 480w and 28a/+12v.
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Another psu question

Okey. I need to know if my psu is good enough for geforce 4 ti 4200.
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Output | Peak | Max
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The chip will not support 6 channel output unless you have the S-Bracket with you. I can you can reach your local dealer and try getting one from them.
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Jeevs,
You have 3 different posts into separate forums. Not a good idea cross posting into the wrong subs. I'll consolidate the issues concerning your p6-2302eam desktop.
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(2) The PSU question could be only answered based on the card requirements. (added wattage).
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I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
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read check list in unoffivcial guide at the top
mabey you unplugged somthing
first is power outlet on a switch, if so is it on.
double check that psu is plugged in allthe way on outside, does it have a switch
on the back of the psu, is that on.
double check the front case wires, power button leads
is the motherboard on the brass risers, not touching case
is the 20 pin power plugged in, how about the 4 pin square plug.
try one mem card, ..
and try to reset cmos jumper, just make sure power is off......
i am assuming the new psu has more then 18a at 12v
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you will know when you see it.)

MSI N580GTX - freezing games

Got a new MSI 580GTX Twin Frozr II/OC. After using it for a month or so it started acting up. When playing a more demanding game (Call of Duty: Black Ops, BulletStorm, Homefront, etc) it runs well for a few minutes, and when GPU temperature reaches about 60 or 65C (which is not that much) game freezes. When I press Ctrl-Alt-Del and I start Task Manager (or simply cancel and go back to game) most of the times it continues to run for some time (from a few seconds up to a minute or two) probably until temp reaches critical again. If I play something less demanding, such as CSS, if I'm lucky I might not get a freeze, but occasionally I do, but after a longer period, something like 15-20 mins or more. This didn't happen when it was brand new, a couple of months ago, but it started at some point while playing Bulletstorm and then somewhat got worse. First I thought it was a hitch with the new NVidia drivers 275.33 (which is not unheard of:) so I tried reverting to some older versions. Went through 270.61 and a couple more, now I'm on 267.24 and it makes no difference. Tried upgrading (and then downgrading to be sure) to latest BIOS version on the video card (1.04) and that didn't help either. Motherboard BIOS has been upgraded more than a year ago, with no issues, and it has worked that way so I'm pretty sure that's not it. Being all out of options I pulled it out to clean it (there was no dust on it by the way) and re-seated it nicely on the slot, just to be sure. Nope, that didn't fix anything. By the way, when I get the freezes, GPU usage is not even that high, it runs at about 50-60% capacity. CPU is also about 50% but never goes above 55 or 60C on core #4 (always the hottest), but I never had any problems with the CPU overheating before anyway.
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CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad 9450 @ 2.66GHz
2x500Gb WD HDDs
PSU: Thermaltake ToughPower 700W
Memory: Corsair XMS3 DHX CM3X2G1333C9DHX
OS: Win7 Ultimate x64
That enough about sys config or do you want to know more?
Thanks, any help appreciated.

Quote from: Hiro on 12-June-11, 09:36:07
.... and when GPU temperature reaches about 60 or 65C (which is not that much) game freezes. ..
what is the speed of the GPU fan with those temps ? and second question; do you clean the old drivers before install this new card ?

A few questions about replacing a PSU with few variations.

So I've spent a lot of time the last few weeks browsing these forums, searching the web, watching eBay, and asking around locally. I am still torn between forking over the $150-$200 for an eBay replacement or trying one of the adapters (http://atxg4.com/mdd.html) with an ATX PSU.
First off, I would like to get a little insight into my problem, to make sure I'm diagnosing it correctly. Two weeks ago I went to turn on my trusty 1GHz FW800 to type a quick document for work. I have been using this machine for over 6 years, without a single problem. The only modifications I made to the machine in the first few years (besides OS updates) was 3 sticks of memory, and another 60gig HD. Two years ago, I wanted to update my vid card to try and squeeze a few more years out of the machine. I went with the ATI 9800pro 128mb card. In order to use my Studio Display with this new card, I had to purchase the DVI to ADC Adapter with it's own power supply. Everything was peachy.
The other night, I pushed my power button, like I've done thousands of times before, and the button lit up like usual, but I didn't hear a fan or any noise coming from the machine, and the power button slowly faded. I then proceeded to push it again, and this time nothing...no light, no noise. And this is how it currently sits...
I've done pretty much everything I can think of to figure out what's wrong. I've tried unplugging and re-plugging, replacing and testing the power cord, using a different surge protector, using a different outlet, resetting the PMU, replacing and testing the battery, and reseating my memory sticks and graphics card. When the machine is plugged in, there are no red lights that glow. So, I followed the PSU test using a multimeter. I removed the black connector cover and stuck the probes in as best I could to get a reading, and I could not get a single reading from the first step of the PSU test. Am I safe to say my PSU is shot? Or...should I get some kind of a reading even if it is shot?
Lastly, I've read that one of the drawbacks of using an ATX PSU is that I will not be able to use my Cinema Display. With my current setup, using the DVI to ADC Adapter with it's own power, will it be possible for me to continue using my Apple Cinema Display if I were to use an ATX PSU? Thanks in advance for any insight/advice anyone can give!

The power Supply adapter page says you won't have the 25V for the Cinema Display. Your other power just may work. Hopefully, someone else who has done the ATX mod & has a cinema display will respond.
Suggest you also post your question in the cimena display forum at http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=111
 Cheers, Tom

ATX PSU conversion question

Hello,
I'm converting an ATX PSU for use on a Sawtooth. The PSU I have is 20 + 4 pin type. So the 4 pin part is discarded on a Sawtooth. Anyway, my question is: can I use the 3v(Orange) line from the discarded 4 pin part, and move it over to pin 8, instead of soldering a nearby 3v line onto the pin 8 line? I'm thinking I can just remove the 3v. orange line from the discarded 4 pin part, install a new pin, and insert it into the pin 8 slot on the motherboard connector.
Thanks,
medinaray

This link shows the differences in the ATX & Sawtooth power supply pins/voltages
http://atxg4.com/sawtooth.html
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 Cheers, Tom

Question about CRS PSU Patch.

Hello all,
My customer is currently RAC 10.2.0.4.3 (i.e 10204 patchset + Database PSU Patch 9119284) and with 10.2.0.4 CRS
Currently due to a CRS Bug we recommended customer to apply CRS PSU 10.2.0.4.4 i.e Patch 9294403
Now the question is :
can the customer apply the CRS PSU 10.2.0.4.4 when he is with 10.2.0.4.3 RDBMS PSU ?
(NOTE: CRS PSU should be applied to both CRS_HOME and RDBMS_HOME)
I do see that RDBMS PSU 10.2.0.4.5(9654991) is available and the goal is to minmize the issues.
Thanks.

Hi,
For 10.2 RDBMS/ASM home, you normally apply CRS PSU and DB PSU. It does not matter which is greater as you are on the same release like 10.2.0.4.
So if you have CRS PSU 10.2.0.4.4 and DB PSU 10.2.0.4.5, this is fine as both patchset(s) are on 10.2.0.4.
It is better to apply the same CRS PSU on both CRS and RDBMS/ASM homes.
Hope this clears every thing.
Regards,
Amr
OCS

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