Psu's/motherboards

i have a new hp p6313w 64 bit. i wanted to run the Oblivion game at the full HD 1080p so i bought a galaxy gts 250. it would run great untill charactor was outside with all the graphics of the outdoors, then computer would shut down. so i bought a GEN-MAX 480w atx switching psu. it runs the game great but when im not playing the game, say surfing the web, i may get 3-5 crashes in a 3 hour period(screen turns blue, says "windows had unexpected shut down"). so i reinstalled the 250w psu that came with the computer and now i dont have anymore crashes, just the origanal problem with oblivion. is this just a bad power supply unit or what? also, what is the maxium wattage my motherboard will handle in a psu? thanks

There is a overclocking section in the forum, Just start a thread with what you wish other users to post.
Might as well give mine for fun
K7N2-Delta-ILSR
2500+ mobile (133FSB @ 1833Mhz) @ 200FSB X 12 = 2400Mhz
Samsung 3200 512meg X 2 Running 1:1
Innovatek water cooling

Similar Messages

Can a Chip from a 133 kill a 167 motherboard? Can THE REVERSE happen?

I have a frustrating problem that's driving me nuts.
The questions first, the backstory below.
Q: Knowing that the PSU is brand new, perfect.... Is it more possible that a single bad chip on a dual 1.25 proc CPU might be able to do damage a motherboard on a firewire 400 MDD, or is it more likely that a bad chip wouldn't damage a perfectly good motherboard?
Q: Could using a 1.25 CPU from a 133mhz motherboard on a 167 mhz board, have caused the chip to fry?
I can see, since I have one of each (both now fried), that while similar looking, the CPU's are not exactly the same between the 133 & the 167.
5 1/2 years ago I bought an excellent condition firewire 400 MD dual 1.25 167 mhz computer from a music studio owner. I have multiple ADAT's and PCI interfaces that require this computer, and no thousands to upgrade the breakout box with AD/DA converters and PCI card required to make the system run.
The computer worked brilliantly for 3 years, then the PSU went. I replaced it with a brand new one. That one lasted one year, then also died. Somewhere in there, the CPU fried. No idea if those issues were connected. Boards suggested that a bad motherboard COULD have been partly guilty of killing the chip, but they said only possibly.
Last fall instead of buying parts, I bought a complete working MDD off lease from a graphics place, figuring I'd cannibalize from the newer system and also have a parts computer to use when other things went on "my baby" (fans switches etc).
The thing started up crankily, showing corruption of the OS, but we were about to move, and I figured I'd just run Techtool & Disk Warrior when we got unpacked, or just put my original seagate drives in.
I DID NOT REALIZE I'd bought a dual 1.25 with a 133mhz bus.
We moved Nov. Then came winter. The 133 bus Computer sat for 4 months. In Feb I brought it up to my studio and it tried to start once, but never got past a chime & fans. The third try nothing at all.
I re-seated the CPU & added arctic as I'd planned. Nothing. One of the processors seemed to show possible outward signs of being bad, but nothing I could swear to. Then I tested the PSU, it showed dead dead.
I pulled the motherboard and underneath there were "maybe-possibly-I-have-no-idea" discoloration in one area.
At this point I'd had it, so I bought a purported 100% tested working 167 motherboard and a completely rebuilt PSU ...360 watts, 3 month warranty...100% feedback on ebay.... I know it was good.
I installed the components with new arctic in "my baby", pressed power. The fans spun up & instantly I smelled burning. Turn it off. Pulled the heatsink and the lower chip that I'd wondered about had burned it's arctic to a crisp. The other looked normal.
Before getting all nutty on the guy who sold me the motherboard (who has offered to do an exchange)I said I'd go online, SINCE I NOW ABSOLUTELY NEED A NEW CPU, & see what folks said.
Could the motherboard have been damaged BY an already bad chip?
OR could the mismatch of using a 1.25 chip from a 133 board have caused it to fry?
I DO realize that I could have FIRST put the new PSU in the 133 machine, but I was worried that the motherboard might have been damaged when the PSU went, so I didn't.
I'm buying a new chip regardless. I'm trying to track down via the Q's above what is MORE likely and LESS likely before a send the motherboard back. It MAY be fine. To me, BEING fine at full power (and the mismatch) may have been what caused the chip to go.
What do you think?
*I have a frustrating problem that's driving me NUTS.*
Basic questions first, the complete back-story below.
Q-1: Knowing that the PSU is brand new, perfect.... Is it more possible that a single bad chip on a dual 1.25 proc. CPU might be able to do damage a motherboard on a firewire 400 MDD, or is it more likely that a bad chip wouldn't damage a perfectly good motherboard?
Q-2: Could installing a dual 1.25 CPU from a 133MHz motherboard on a 167 MHz board, have caused the chip to fry? Or are these likely unrelated scenarios?
I can see, since I have one of each (both now fried), that while *+similar looking+*, the CPU's are not exactly the same between the 133 & the 167.
5 1/2 years ago I bought an excellent condition firewire 400 MDD dual 1.25 167 MHz computer from a music studio owner. I have multiple original ADAT's, and a Mark Of the Unicorn breakout box BOTH which have PCI interface cards that require this computer, and no thousands to upgrade the breakout box with the new firewire interface to make the system run. Besides to stay all digital I STILL need the ADAT PCI card...
The computer worked brilliantly for 3 years, then the PSU went. I replaced it with a brand new one. That PSU lasted one year, then also died. I wondered what killed it. It was brand new ($400). Somewhere in there, the CPU fried. *No idea if those issues were connected*. Folks here & elsewhere suggested that a bad PSU OR motherboard COULD have been partly guilty of killing the chip, but they said only possibly. *Replacing ALL three* was the only way a non tech could tell.
Last fall instead of buying parts, I bought a complete working MDD on ebay off lease from a graphics place, figuring I'd cannibalize from the newer system, & also end up with a parts computer to use when other things went on "baby".
The thing started up crankily, showing corruption of the OS, but we were about to move, and I figured I'd just run Techtool & Disk Warrior when we got unpacked, and/or just put my original seagate drives in.
*IMPORTANT? I DID NOT REALIZE I'd bought a dual 1.25 with a 133MHz bus*.
We moved Nov. Then came winter. The 133 bus Computer sat for 4 months. In Feb I brought it up to my studio, and it tried to start once, but never got past a chime & fans. The third try nothing at all.
I re-seated the CPU & added arctic Silver (sparingly) as I'd planned.
Nothing.
One of the processors seemed to show possible outward signs of discoloration, but nothing I could swear to.
I tested the PSU pinouts, *it showed dead dead dead*.
I pulled the motherboard and underneath there were +"maybe-possibly-I-have-no-idea" discoloration in one area.+
At this point I'd TOTALLY had it, so I bought a purported 100% tested working 167 motherboard from a near 100% feedback ebayer, *AND a completely rebuilt PSU* ...360 watts, 3 month warranty...100% feedback on ebay.... I know it was good.
I installed the components with new arctic in "my baby", pressed power. The fans spun up & instantly I smelled burning. Turn it off. Pulled the heatsink and the lower chip that I'd wondered about before had burned it's new arctic to ****. The other looked normal.
Before getting all nutty on the guy who sold me the motherboard (who has offered to do an exchange for another) I said I'd go online, *SINCE I NOW ABSOLUTELY NEED A NEW CPU*, & see what folks said.
Could the motherboard have been damaged BY an already bad chip? Or visa versa?
OR, could the mismatch of using a 1.25 chip from a 133 board have caused it to fry when installed on the 167?
I DO realize that I could have FIRST put the new PSU in the 133 machine, but I was already worried that it's motherboard might have been damaged when the PSU went, so I didn't.
I'm buying a new chip regardless.
I'm trying to track down via the Q's above what is MORE likely and LESS likely before sending the motherboard back. It MAY be fine. To my mind, *BEING fine* at full power (and the mismatch) may have been what caused the chip to go, or the chip may have been bad all along having been killed when the other machine's PSU and/or motherboard went.
Oh, *I did all kinds of memory stick swapping, card pulling, disconnected all peripherals. It's none of them that's the issue.*
*What do you guys think?*
Message was edited by: tom2323

As the last posts suggest I did buy a purportedly good dual 1.25 Hz CPU that the seller says came from a 167 motherboard.
The seller also told me that ALL dual 1.25 CPU's came from 167MHz motherboards.
IS THIS TRUE?
I don't know if he's right, but when I installed the "new" dual 1.25 MHz CPU, it started once, and fried. The thermal compound and heat sink were installed... the compound was NOT overly applied.
I sent the chip back to him, and he claims that his records show the chip tested good before shipping and that it is now fried.
He suggests only two possibilities:
1. Too much thermal was applied (didn't happen, I was thoroughly schooled in the application of the compound & have done it before).
2. The chip was run without the heat sink. Neither is true. I actually had a second fan blowing directly on the heat sink, since the cover was open.
From his standpoint, my board or technique fried the chip. From my standpoint, the chip may simply have been ready to go, and when installed with a new motherboard and new PSU, it simply went, OR he's wrong about dual 1.25 chips ONLY coming from 167 MHz boards.
I'm basically in a situation where one seller is going to blame the other, and/or me. The seller I got the motherboard from immediately sent me a new one, no questions asked. The CPU seller, wrote to me and is awaiting a reply.
I need the question above regarding were there dual 1.25 CPU's ever sold with 133 MHz motherboards to begin to respond to his well, accusation essentially.
I can't do any further testing without another chip. I already paid $100 plus for that chip.

Dead board or PSU? failed XP install?

I have a MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum/SLI Motherboard with Hiper Type R 580W PSU
Couple of months go I left the power off to the PC for a few days(The switch on the back of the PSU off). On turning it back on (PSU switch lit up) the PC wouldn't power up on the front button, no LED's nothing. After a considerable amount of wire waggling and taking it apart a couple of times it did power up and has been fine for the last couple of months so long as you don't turn the power off on the PSU switch on the back of the PC. And...Windows XP died on me at the weekend, wouldn't start in safe mode etc and failed on installing over the top of the old system so went for a clean install (I have all my storage files on a second drive so that's safe) there's only the system on the first drive.
I reformatted the drive the long way which went OK but when Windows started to install it failed saying a whole load of .dll files couldn't be copied. I shut everything down to go back to it the day after but on connecting the power sure enough I have no power again, PSU switch lights up but apart from that it's dead. I've tried jumping the front power switch terminals on the board with no luck.
So two issues, no power which I assume is either a dead or touchy board or PSU. There's no light on the board so any way of testing the PSU? I don't have a spare that I can try.
If and when I do get power any ideas on the failed windows install?
I'd appreciate your help before I start throwing money at it getting a new PSU or motherboard.
Cheers
Al

Disconnect all of the drives, remove all of the memory and pci cards except for only only one stick in the slot nearest to the cpu and one video card. Also disconnect the AC cord before doing a cmos clear.
See if it will start up with this barebones configuration. Then add the other sticks of memory. If it still works, run memtest86 to check the memory. 5 passes without any errors should be enough.
Add the drives one at a time to see if any of them are causing the problem. Once you know that the drives are good, do the same with the PCI cards. Let us know the results.
It would help if we knew what was in the system. Use the info that I provide on my systems as a guide to what we need to know.

SoundBlaster X-Fi Platinum w/780i Motherboard issu

I have discovered a large number of issues with this sound card using the motherboard that seem to be 00% driver related. I'm looking for information from other 780i motherboard users, to try and establish the most stable drivers for this particular card. The setup I'm using is:
EVGA 780i Motherboard (P06 BIOS)
Intel Q6600 @ 3.6ghz (.48v - B3)
2x EVGA 8800GTX's SLI'd 575/800
2x gb OCZ PC8500 Reaper
SoundBlaster X-Fi Platinum
SilverStone ST000 PSU
D-Tek Fusions / Thermochill 360.3 / Swiftech MCP655
Currently, I'm running one video card, not in SLI. When it was SLI'd, it did not give any different issues other than normal (no squeals of death or anything). The issues? Well, it seems to have jumped from driver to driver.
The initial issues were essentially the worst random artifacting on a computer I've ever seen. Everything on the computer had been tested (multiple video cards, psu's, motherboards, ram, etc) extensi'vely, and we eventually boiled it down to system instability, either in the sound card, or the system voltages. Since the system runs perfectly at stock (and overclocked) settings without the sound card, the sound card has won the prize at being at fault. The original thread is located here (http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=428753).
Either way, I used Drivercleaner and removed the drivers when attempting to re-troubleshoot the card. I installed a set of the 6.0..360 (05/08) drivers, and have had the video issues completely disappear with another one rising in it's place. Again, general instability when running programs, ranging from Internet Explorer, to World of Warcraft, all of them resulting in a windows based error. As the system is 00% stable without the sound card, and updating the drivers appeared to fix the previous problems in lieu of some new ones, I'm just looking for someone with the same motherboard, and same card, with no issues, as well as what drivers they're running. I'm going to take a shot and install the ones off the CD and see if that makes any difference, as well as any others I can find in attempts to salvage the card.
Additionally, there are no IRQ conflicts associated with this. The video card is on 6, and the Sound Card is on 7.
Tips from any 780i users?
Message Edited by Tyrith on 07-05-2008 04:06 PM

SATA drive no longer boots

The PC was running fine for about two weeks with a single 160GB SATA drive.
One morning, with no hardware changes, the PC refused to boot. A blue screen of death flashed very quickly past as the PC rebooted. Windows suggested safe mode, and when I booted into safe mode the PC stopped loading drivers immediately after mup.sys. I've had this problem before with mup.sys on other PCs (I believe the real problem is the ACPI driver loaded immediately after mup.sys). In any case the solution is usually to remove any hardware or, in the worst case, re-install XP.
Running windows XP setup from CD it will no longer re-install onto the SATA hard drive. Even the recovery console will not work, claiming there is a problem with the drive. I know that the drive is not dead, because it gets as far as trying to install the ACPI driver.
Install a ATA HDD, installing XP on to it. Ran SP1 and all the updates. The ATA HDD worked OK until I plugged in the SATA HDD, which caused the new version of XP to hang at the mup.sys driver again. Disabled the SATA controller, and then everything works again. Ran all the updates for the motherboard and BIOS but that did not help. Switched SATA cables but did not help. Tried the SATA RAID controller but that did not make any difference. Variously tried disabling everything I could in the BIOS setup but that made no difference.
Now, I know that my no-name RAM might be a bit dodgy, and the PSU a little wimpy, but the PC works fine as long as the SATA HDD is either disabled or not plugged in. It actually ran perfectly for two weeks, and I was surprised how cool the CPU runs.
I looks like the next step is to try another SATA HDD, then PSU, then motherboard, but is there anything else which might help my situation before I go out and buy those items?

Well, it turns out it was the SATA HDD, and it seems to be repaired.
The method was to boot Windows XP from another HDD into safe mode and repair the drive. Windows would not boot from the SATA HDD at all, nor run in safe mode. When booted from the other HDD Windows would not access the SATA HDD normally, but would for some reason in safe mode. There must be a difference between the SATA drivers used in safe mode vs regular mode.
CheckDisk found many cross linked files and fixed them (took about an hour) and now the SATA HDD looks like it is working.
How did the file system get damaged? Good question, since I have never seen NTFS get messed up like this. In any case I'm probably going to replace the HDD in case it was the controller.

Stability Issues With X58 Pro

# CPU: Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz
# Motherboard: MSI X58 Pro LGA 1366 Intel X58
# Memory: CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
# Video Card: SAPPHIRE 100270SR Radeon HD 4850 X2 2GB
# Power Supply: Thermaltake Purepower 800watt
# Sound Card: X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro Series
Hello. Starting about 1 month ago I've been experiencing this issue. I can be just cruising the internet watching youtube video and listening to music then the computer will freeze and this loud screeching sound would come out of my headphones (and scare the crap out of me). This issue never occurred while I was playing any PC games until recently.
Yesterday I was fed up with the issue so I pulled open the case and cleaned every fan out (which I do every couple of weeks). Now the issue seems to be occurring while playing video games or listening to music. All the fans appear to be functioning properly and I don't believe it could be heat related because I have the Antec 1200 case which has 6 case fans. I've run PC Wizard 2009 and SystemFAN while playing some games and none of the temperatures I saw look too extreme.
So I'm suspecting it could be the RAM, soundcard, PSU, or motherboard but could use some more assistance before I start RMAing it.

Quote from: Blaise on 29-September-09, 04:08:16
I'd be inclined to blame the Creative drivers for your sound card first. Try updating (or if necessary, downgrade) the drivers and see if it makes any difference.
I actually pulled out the sound card an hour or so ago and removed the drivers. I'm running on onboard audio and the system just randomly restarted while I was talking to people on Ventrilo.

990fxa-gd80 resume issue

Hello, i hope someone among you good guys can help me with a very annoying issue i am experiencing in my system, that is driving me mad and that i could not solve in a month of tries. I own an HTPC based on the following configuration:
AMD Phenom II X4 945 CPU
MSI 990FXA-GD80 M/B
8Gb Corsair XMS3 DDR (2x4Gb)
Corsair AX-650 PSU
Samsung 256Gb 830 SATA SSD (2 partitions, system + data), AHCI SATA mode
Seagate 3Tb Barracuda SATA HDD with GPT table
ATI HD 5750 video card (2 displays attached)
Terratec Cinergy DVB-S2 card
Hauppauge HVR-2200 DVB-T card
Silverstone LC-16m case with Imon VFD + Imon Pad remote and USB card reader
Internal serial port, 1394 and eSATA ports enabled
Logitech USB Webcam, USB speakers and USB G110 illuminated keyboard
Toshiba laser mouse
Windows 7 x64 sp1, windows Media Center + DVBLink TV source, MST and various other programs.
Hibernation disabled
No overclok
I used this HTPC with much satisfaction from nearly 1 year, never experiencing an issue: i used to keep it in S3 mode 24/7 and it always got out from S3 state to record TV programs without any problem.
I installed the second drive, the 3Tb Seagate Barracuda, the first week of september. Then a day between the firsts of october i installed Mediaportal to give it a try; fearing system modifications by that software, i saved a backup image in my second drive. After a pair of days (or maybe at that time i noticed it for the first time), the issue has started.
The issue consists in a strange system freeze when the HTPC tries to wake up from S3: when the HTPC tries to exit S3 state the case led gets on, the HDD led blinks once or twice and then fans start running loudly and the HTPC freezes BEFORE the display can show any image (it remains black and goes to power saving mode) - power led on and HDD led off. No blue screen (the display is off). No memory dump. Keyboard's leds off. No manual crash dump possible. All i can do is keep power switch pressed until system complete shutdown.
But the really strange thing is that it happens ONLY once or twice a day, in the rest of the times the HTPC gets to wake up from S3 normally without any issue: it usually wakes up from S3 a number of times per day (7/8 minimum), but only 1/2 times the freeze issue happens (more often early in the morning or around twilight, seldom in other time slots)... Also, when on, the HTPC runs flawlessly as ever.
Thinking MP was guilty in some way, i restored the backup image but unfortunately the issue didn't disappear! So MP was no to blame... something different had happened to my PC...
I think you can understand that such an issue is really serious for an HTPC, because it makes it really untrustable for scheduled recording work: often recordings fail because of the HTPC freezing when it tries to resume... my wife is really sad about it...
Trying to solve the issue, i made the following:
running memtest and video card memory test - no error found
change nearly every MST options - no effect
reading carefully W7's event viewer logs after and between freezes - nothing found that could clarify the issue
changing all ACPI and power related BIOS options (C3 support, EUR 2013, CPU phases, DDR phases, shadowing, etc...) - no effect
updating BIOS and all drivers - no effect
disabling cool'n'quiet - no effect
unplugging Segate 3Tb HDD - no effect
unplugging all external and internal USB devices (except mouse) - no effect
uninstalling ATI video card and running with legacy drivers - no effect
disabling embedded Ethernet adapter - no effect
unplugging the second display (an HDTV) - no effect
tried to get a manual crash dump - not possible as when the issue happens the HTPC is freezed
Those tries took very long to be made, because every time i have to wait all day long for the issue to happen: it NEVER takes place if i wake up the HTPC after a few seconds sleep, seems like it needs at least a few hours of S3 state to take place.
Now, many particulars of the issue seem to lead to a compatibility problem between PSU and motherboard: i read about other users experiencing similar problems using high-end PSUs (min load related?), problems they solved by finding older or cheaper PSUs compatible with their MB (that's a blind try thing, luck was needed)... but in all cases PSU functioning was not bad, so no RMA was possible. Anyway, it is obvious that changing MB solved the issue as well... so Corsair support states it is not a PSU issue but a MB related one.
This seems to be a frequent problem for intel z68 based MBs, but i suspect my 990fxa MB can show the same compatibility issue with Corsair AX PSU, assuming some power related modification has happened in the last month in PSU or MB circuitry.
So i would like to know if someone else is/is not experiencing the same issue using same MB and PSU; more, i would like to know what 80+ PSU is SURELY working flawlessly with my MB, in case i should have to solve the issue by replacing the Corsair PSU (that is manufactured by Seasonic); finally, i would like to ask MSI technicians to verify the issue and possibly working around it with a BIOS update (maybe raising resume initial load, if PSU min load is to blame).
Thanks in advance.

Even with AMD power reduction, consumption while on is nearly ten times than in standby... it happens me to leave my PC in S3 for 3/4 days, so power consumption would be too much (i write from Italy and here AC current is much expensive!).
Anyway, i took a more accurate look around about PSU/MB incompatibility and i'm now sure enough that this is the problem. It seems certain MBs in power saving modes (like S3) require a too low power from PSU, so that PSU min load is not achieved, that makes it malfunction. This happens to new, energy efficient PSUs, that eliminate minimum load resistors to achieve maximum efficiency...
Look at this: http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58802.
So this issues happen because MB is too efficient (it requires too low power from PSU) and PSU is too efficient itself (it eliminates power used to remain above min load in power saving). Is this true? It seems ridicolous to me!!!!!!! To save a couple of watts we are forced to leave PC on so wasting dozens of watts? Are PC engineers really dummies?
BUT it looks like this can easily be solved by a BIOS adjustment, isn't it?

Cant figure out my problem

Hello, I got my new rma'd board back last wensday. I put it togeather, boot and get no post. I unplug a few things (fans, cdrom, etc) and I post. So after doing a few tests I Decide my thermaltake 420 (12v.18a) wasnt strong enough. I go to best buy, compusa, and circut city and finaly find an antec 430. This model had 26 on the 12v rail but a little less on the 3.3 and 5 then my old psu. So I picked it up for 100. (I know pricy But i wanted to get it runing) So I put it togeather. Still having problems and somtimes not posting. I tried to run a fresh copy of Xp, but it just keeps freezing while formating. I tried twice, it froze at 4 and 6 percent. Sometimes when it doesnt post I reboot and it works fine. Its so weird. Do I really need a 550 watt psu for this system. The mobo is brand new.
Specs: AMD a64 3400+
MSI k8t-neo
Corsair value memory 512(one stick)
maxtor 60 gig hd
ati radeon 8500
SB audigy 2
Sony CD burner

An Antec 430 actually only has 20 Amps on the 12 Volt line. However, I don't think that's the problem as my Antec 430 has been fine for 6 months now. The fact that you say closing the case door caused a freeze makes me think something is loose somewhere. Check all your connections, especially PSU to motherboard and Hard Drive to Motherboard. Unplug them all and re-plug them back in. Hopefully that will fix your problem. Simple, but maybe it's the ticket. I had the same sort of problem with my girlfriend's Dell once. Straight out of the box it wouldn't boot. After unplugging and replugging everything, it was fine. Funny thing was that nothing felt loose in the first place.
You may want to reseat the memory too.

New PC Build for CS5 Master Suite

Hi,
I'm building a new PC to use with the CS5 Master Suite of programs (amongst others) and am looking for a little advice.
I've already read through lots of posts here and got some valuable advice, however there are so many different options available that I still have some questions. I hope you can help.
System will be used for web design, graphic design, photo editing and video (inc HD).
Here is the component list I've put together so far:
1. Motherboard
Asus P6X58D Premium Intel X58 (Socket 1366) DDR3
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-379-AS
£243.00
2. CPU
Intel Core i7 930 2.80GHz (Bloomfield) (Socket LGA1366)
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CP-318-IN&groupid=701&catid=6&subcat= 1272
£222.00
3. Memory
Corsair Dominator Tri Channel 6GB (3x2GB) PC3 - 12800 1600MHz DDR3
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-269-CS&groupid=701&catid=8&subcat= 1389
£190.00
4.System HD
Western Digital VelociRaptor 150GB 10000RPM SATA-II 16MB Cache
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-236-WD&groupid=701&catid=14&subcat =167
£135.00
5a.Storage HD's
Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache - OEM
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-082-SA&groupid=701&catid=14&subcat =1279
£57.00
5b.OR
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-336-WD&groupid=701&catid=14&subcat =1279
£77.00
6a. Quiet Case
Coolermaster Sileo 500 Silent Case - Black
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-164-CM
£63.00
6b. OR
Antec Solo Quiet Mini Tower Case
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-058-AN&tool=3
£73.00
6c. OR
Antec Sonata III Piano Black Quiet Case
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-073-AN&tool=3
£105.00
7a. CPU Fan/Cooling
Noctua NH-D14 Dual Radiator CPU Cooler
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-011-NC
£67.00
7b. OR
Corsair H50 CPU Watercooling
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-002-CS
£67.00
8a. Graphics Card
Asus NVIDIA GeForce GTX 480 1526MB
http://www.cclonline.com/product-info.asp?product_id=46710
£435.00
8b. OR
nVidia GeForce GTX 470 PCI-Expres VGA Card 1280MB
Eclipse Computers
£312.00
8c. OR
PNY Quadro FX 1800 768MB
£266.00
9a. Quiet Power Supply
Corsair HX 750W ATX Modular SLI Compliant Power Supply
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-018-CS&groupid=701&catid=123&subca t=1084
£130.00
9b. OR
Corsair HX 1000W ATX Modular SLI Compliant Power Supply
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-012-CS&groupid=701&catid=123&subca t=1084
£195.00
10. Windows 7 Pro 64Bit
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit - OEM
Overclockers
£120.00
1. Has been recommended on these forums. Good to have USB3.0.
2. CPU is affordable and fast, with the ability to overclock it if I feel the need for a bit more speed in the future.
3. Would love 12GB, but will start with 6GB and perhaps add more later.
4. Started looking at Solid State Drives as I love the comments about how fast they load programs, etc., however as they are still really expensive felt that going with a fast standard drive would be best. As I plan on having a dual boot system, I would get two of these. One would have OS, CS5 and all my other software installed and the other one would have the minimum for CS5 installed and the OS tweaked for performance with video editing.
5. Both seem like great drives. Anyone any preference? Would plan on getting two and use one to store video rushes and the other for previews and the page file. Would getting a HD with a 6GB/s interface be worth it?
6. I want a quiet case and one that's no higher than 45cm. I already own the Antec Solo and I like the elastic HD mounting. Anyone any preference?
7. Noctua comes recommended on these forums, however am concerned with it's size. Love the idea of water cooling an the H50 system make it easier and less fuss being a closed system. Final choice must be quiet and I've read differing reviews on both.
8. Can't wait to use the MPE, so want a decent card. Torn between getting a cheaper card and upgrading later or spending the money now on a GTX480 and doing the software hack until fully supported.
9. With a GTX480 would a 750w PSU be enough?
GRAPHICS CARD
I've read reports of the GTX480 not being faster than the 2XX version card, however am I not correct in saying that the 2XX cards are no longer being sold? Should I be looking for a card from a particular manufacturer, i.e. Asus, Gainward, Point of View, Gigabyte? Or even Nvidia themselves?
I am worried about the heat generated by the GTX480 and the associated fan noise to cool it. Any thoughts?
Love the water cooling solution, perhaps some day. http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-480-liquid-cooling-danger-den-review/1
HD SET-UP
C:
WD VelociRaptor 150GB
Main System
C:
WD VelociRaptor 150GB
Video System
D:
DVD Burner
E:
Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB
Video rushes
F:
Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB
Video previews / Page File
G:
1.5TB
Other storage
H:
1.5TB
Other storage
DUAL BOOT
For my dual boot, has anyone had experience of using a HD caddy like this one? http://www.ebuyer.com/product/172727
I read a review which said that there was no real speed difference as there is no interface card, just a cable to the motherboard. It would make my dual boot less complicated to set-up as I wouldn't need to use Win 7 to dual boot or use 3rd party software like Acronis OS Selector. It would also free up space for a further internal HD.
PREMIERE OUTPUT TO A HDMI SCREEN
I've been going back and forward on the best solution to get a proper output of my timeline in Premiere to an external monitor. I was set to go with the Matrox MX02 Mini, however some here have said they're unstable (to a degree). Although with the CS5 drivers not out yet, perhaps it's too early to say.
Although none of my video work has been for broadcast (so far), I see a great benefit from being able to preview my timeline on a TV screen as opposed to a PC monitor. I will be running two screens so I need both outputs from the graphics card.
I look forward to receiving your collective wisdom.

Here are the components I plan to buy this week:
Description
Inc VAT
1000W Corsair CMPSU-1000HXUK, ATX, EPS12V, PS/2, Modular Power Supply, UK Version, 5 Year Warranty
£184.11
300GB Western Digital WD3000HLFS VelociRaptor, SATA 3Gb/s, 10000rpm, 16MB Cache, 4.2 ms
£154.78
Coolermaster ATCS 840 Classic Full Tower Aluminum Case, Black w/o PSU
£143.31
1TB Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3, SATA 3Gb/s, 7200rpm, 32MB Cache, 8.9 ms, NCQ, OEM
(2x) £96.30
Sony AD-5240S-0B 24x DVDR 12xDVDDL DVDRW x8/-RWx6 SATA Black
£14.99
12GB (6x2GB) Corsair Dominator, DDR3 PC3-12800 (1600), CAS 8-8-8-24, DHX, XMP, DF, 1.65V
£357.34
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit, Single, - OEM
£110.53
Intel Core i7 930 D0 SLBKP Bloomfield 45nm, 2.8 GHz, QPI 4.8GT/s, 8MB Cache, 20x Ratio, 130W, Retail
£236.37
1280MB Asus GTX 470, 40nm, 3348MHz GDDR5, GPU 607MHz, Shader 1215MHz, 448 Cores, 2xDVI,mini HDMI
£293.13
Asus P6X58D-E, Intel X58, S1366, PCI-E 2.0 (x16), DDR3 1333/1600/2000, SATA 3Gb/s RAID, ATX
£168.22
Noctua NH-D14 Dual Radiator CPU Cooler (Socket LGA1366/LGA1156/LGA775/AM2/AM2)
£66.99
Noctua NF-P12 Vortex-Control 120mm Quiet Case Fan - 3 Pin
£17.61
Noctua NF-S12B ULN Ultra Low Noise 120mm Cooling Fan, 500/700 RPM
£16.99
Plus a couple of PSU to motherboard extension cables and Windows 7 Pro. It was mentioned by someone that the CPU thermal paste you get with the HN-D14 is fine, so no need to buy anything else.
One extra fan (NF-S12B) to cool hard drives and the other for somewhere else in the case. Perhaps I don't need these.
I presume that I should try and get an OEM CPU as I'll not need the heatsink and fan that'll be in the retail version?
I'm just waiting for Scan to get the case back in stock. Should be today. All priced at Scan, except last three items which are from Overclockers.
Anyone any final thoughts or tips?

Help! I need to upgrade my Dell Optiplex GX260 (tower) power supply!

Hi,
I plan on taking a trip to Best Buy today to purchase a video card and power supply for my Dell Optiplex GX260 (tower). I am looking to get at least a 500W power supply. Can you tell me the BEST power supply that will work/fit that Best Buy sells? Thanks very much.

I see that you posted back in March of 2009 so I hope that you haven't already fried a motherboard or PSU while learning the hardway, as I feel that I almost did. We have a Dell GX260 that my daughter wants to play some games on but I found out that the Graphic Card (ATI Radeon 7500 series) was not good enough for the games that she wants to play so I decided to upgrade the graphic card, unfortunately I found out that a lot of newer cards have PCI-Express connectors and not the PCI I need. As well, I found out that most of the PCI cards above what I have need more than the 250Watt power supply that I have. So I thought, why not just upgrade my my PSU and then I found out that Dell actually rewires their PSU differently than the industry standard ATX connectors but I see a lot of post and recommendations from people that say that you can use any store bought PSU to upgrade your Optiplex GX260 but BEWARE that if you bought your system after late 1998 then you have a Dell system that has their own proprietary wiring configuaration and even though you can buy a standard ATX PSU at bestbuy and it will seem to fit properly, it will either fry your new PSU or worse yet, it will fry your motherboard as well. In fact, I went to bestbuy three days ago and bought a graphic card and the salesman told me that if my PSU was not at least 300Watt, which is what the card required, that I can come back and buy a standard PSU from them and that would fix the problem. The salesman even knew that I had a Dell System so I wonder if BestBuy would be willing to replace my motherboard if I had fried it based on what the bestbuy salesman told me to do???? Anyway, read this link http://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=339053 and see what you think!! I am glad I stumbled across the information and plan on upgrading my PSU with a compatible Dell PSU or look for a Dell Converter (if there is such a cable) or just replace both my PSU and Motherboard as directed. I also think I might actually build my next PC from scratch with all industry standard parts, as I was very ignorant up until now that Dell was doing this to their products and I have 3 of their systems in my house....but no more!!! I did find a Dell compatible PSU 500 Watt on PCPower.com but it comes with SATA drive connectors and my Optiplex GX260 has IDE connectors so I don't know if I can get a SATA to IDE conversion or not but as you can see I am still researching my options. I might actually find it will be cheaper to just buy a new system or build the one of my dreams!!
I know I wrote a lot but I hope that this information is helpful to someone else out there who is in the same boat as me.

Survey

This is a survey to see how many people would like to have a forum where we can post the settings and system specs we have used for a successful overclock with certain cpu's, psu's, motherboards, ram chips, video cards and so forth. Also you current OS, service pacs and final settings that work without have memory errors, constant reboots and overheating problems.
Make sure tha cpu's are correctly identified by name, core and fsb.
Any thoughts gals and guys?

There is a overclocking section in the forum, Just start a thread with what you wish other users to post.
Might as well give mine for fun
K7N2-Delta-ILSR
2500+ mobile (133FSB @ 1833Mhz) @ 200FSB X 12 = 2400Mhz
Samsung 3200 512meg X 2 Running 1:1
Innovatek water cooling

Hp p6000 desktop not starting power supply...?

I have a solid green light on the power supply but the fan does not come on. (nothing but the green light comes on) The start up button flickers briefly when pressed but only after being unplugged and only once until it is unplugged again. I have gone though the hp trouble shooting page. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

As you did not define the model number (just a reference to the HP p6000 series) I had to guess it was the stock 300W used in several of the models.
It the green light is 'on' with applied voltage, but goes out when the computers power switch is depressed, that usually means the power supply has failed. Open the case, and repeat the sequence, noting the PSU light, motherboard LED, and watch the CPU fan. Now, press the computer power switch. Did the CPU fan turn briefly? If the CPU fan quit, and the motherboard LED is now off, I again would suspect the PSU.
I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
To say THANK YOU, press the "thumbs up symbol" to render a KUDO. Please click Accept as Solution, if your problem is solved. You can render both Solution and KUDO.
The Law of Effect states that positive reinforcement increases the probability of a behavior being repeated. (B.F.Skinner). You toss me KUDO and/or Solution, and I perform better.
(2) HP DV7t i7 3160QM 2.3Ghz 8GB
HP m9200t E8400,Win7 Pro 32 bit. 4GB RAM, ASUS 550Ti 2GB, Rosewill 630W. 1T HD SATA 3Gb/s
Custom Asus P8P67, I7-2600k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX660 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Custom Asus P8Z77, I7-3770k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX670 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Both Customs use Rosewill Blackhawk case.
Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 Plus

Just a quick question regards my mobo..

I might possibly bricked my motherboard which I already ask a while back,, just a quick question,,, Now I did hooked up the powersupply to the motherboard alone,,, no other components,,, just the PSU and motherboard,,, then I use a paperclip to put static force on the motherboard's power button ( where powercables on the case should suppose to be in ),,, now the motherboard just keeps on blinking as my problem b4,, so its really the motherboard right??? I just want to confirm that the motherboard is the problem and no other components... thnks

It is finally enough n2th2n. Don't open tons of threads for the same issue. For your board issue use your original thread: forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=184002
Consider this a final warning.

Building a Linux Box Part 2

Originally I was thinking about building a shuttle box (shuttle barebones system). After some research and some consideration to lifespan and futureproofness,
here's plan B (for about the same price as the shuttle build, but with alot more potential).
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-MA790FXT-UD5P AM3 DDR3 AMD 790FX ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6813128377
Cpu - AMD Phenom II X3 720 2.8GHz 3 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 95W Triple-Core Black Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6819103649
Psu - Rosewill RG530-2 530W 80Plus Bronze Certified, ATX12V v2.3/EPS12V v2.91, SLI Ready, Active-PFC Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6817182160
Case - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6811129042
Plus a sata lite-on dvd burner
Note: Some of these things are combo deals on newegg right now: case + psu, cpu + motherboard.
The thing is, with this motherboard, I'm thinking about going with AMD and there relatively new AM3 socket. I can't find much info relating to linux compatabilty with this
particular motherboard / cpu. I don't imagine there would be a problem, but what do I know:P........let me know if you think there might be a problem.
Last edited by greyhat.goon (2009-02-24 07:44:15)

Hmm..... +1 for Intel and +1 for AMD.
So, here's a question. Are the new sockets /cpus automatically linux compatible? Say, like in my first post above, I get a
new fancy pants motherboard with DDR3 memory and an 1. ( AM3 socket and phenom II core 3 cpu) or 2. (Intel Icore 7 cpu / socket). These
are not really new architectures right?, so either should be fine with linux?
Edit
Ok, I finally found something on Phoronix, posted today.
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=n … &px=NzA4OQ
http://global.phoronix-test-suite.com/? … -3263-7163
Seems like in principal, both are fine under linux. Sorry if this was a stupid question .........just wasn't clear/obvious to me.
I guess I don't really understand the compatibity issues with new processors and such.
Thanks again for all of the info!!!
Last edited by greyhat.goon (2009-02-25 05:00:00)

Fried a component?? Which one..

Hi all,
I recently tried to replace a system fan on a thermaltake tsunami case, because it was very noisy.
The 120mm fan i was replacing had 2 wires wired in to a molex and a system fan connector for the motherboard.
The new fan only had a fan cable, therefore i decided to remove the 2 thin wires from the molex when removing the old fan. Something in hindsight i should not have done.
I then discovered the new fan required a separate mount - which i need to buy.
So i tried to power up the pc without a front fan but unfortunately It seems i have killed something:
The cpu fan doesnt spin, neither does the psu fan.
The psu is making a noticeable wurring noise when switched on, i do get lights come on the motherboard so the psu isnt completely dead, but im not sure what ive fried, and what i need to replace.
Itll likely be the psu or motherboard.
Any Help will be very much appreciated.
Hiper 480W
2 34Gb raptor Raid-0
Intel Duo 2.4gz
Msi p6n plat.
2gig xms2 Corsair 6400c
8800 gts 320mb

Just resit every hardware and power molex in the system, and try booting up again.

Psu's/motherboards

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