PT killer?.....I think so

Hi,
I ordered Logic Studio upgrade from the Apple store yesterday morning, it arrived this morning. It took a couple of hours to install no hitches.
Ive been using it for a few hours now, and I cant tell you how happy I am. This program is unbelievable. It is so well designed.
For the price, and bundled software/audio this would surely have to be the best DAW available. Ive used other DAWS in the past , PT , Cubase, but none of them come close to this one.
The apple remote in one hand and playing a line with the other hand is very cool!
Anyway , gotta get back to it.
D

This is a hard one cuz I would not know where to start...
I come from the Notator days as well... It was after the release of L7 that I finally was force to switch due to L7's massive instability. I hated to the switch as I had done more that 200 projects in Logic many of them in the works - so I had to convert a whole lot. I had been using Logic with TDM hard ware ever since they offered it so I had been having PT just sitting there all those years. My opinion of PT was that it was Clumsy and technical and hard to get into... The Audio Engineer we had hired 4 years prior to making the switch had always been brown nosing PT but I didn'T wanna hear about it... I had my opinion and Logic was my little baby....
When I made the switch it tool me about a week to understand how protools works with audio... The only analogy I could draw is this: I started with a PC in the company where I worked and when I switched to a Mac I first thought that it was complicated... THe only reason I thought that was that I had gotten used to thinking complicated with the PC... The mac was actually a lot more intuitive than the PC... Same goes audio wise for PT in comp. to Logic...
After two week of using PT I went to that audio engineer that had talked to nicely about PT and invited him out for dinner.... Then I told him that I had been walking the path of the ignorant the past years and that I sure regretted not having listened to him in the first place... PT is like an arrange-able sample editor... The audio is not getting buried like it does in Logic... Imagine everything you would like to do with audio then add 400% (what you cant even imagine) and then you might have the audio capabilities of PT.... Many Logic users can work with audio in Logic and they can do so in a great way (in their opinion) most of the times it's cuz they havent been trying PT for a few weeks or more... Many people think that the city of Hamburg has great summers but that is only until they spend a few summers in Miami or Bali... then they'll re-evaluate their opinion. If you can get you hands of a .pdf manual of PT - and dont mind reading in it every know and then - then you will start to grasp why this application has become the industry standard...
Midi wise - you can do a lot with PT - but Logic is just superior when it comes to that. PT users on the other hand cant understand why logic is so much better.... They say; Hey, what more do I need than being able to record midi end edit it.... Well - A Logic user wouldn't even enter that discussion he'd just say - Try it - and you'll know why Logic is the Industry Standard when it comes to midi...
PT and Logic are the greatest apps out there - one dominates the Audio field 100% and the other the Midi field 100%.....
When PT was written is was written to handle audio only.... Then at some point they added midi...
When logic (notator) was written is was written to handle midi only - Then at some point they added audio....
Both are two different concepts with different focus on different fields. Depending on what you do and how you create music you should make the decision on which DAW to choose or both....
Many people today relying on TDM plug-ins (Many of them are NOT available in other formats) are slowly switching to protools software as Logic only utilizes about 10% of the TDM abilities - ADC be one of them - and that is very important when starting 96K and above.... So - TDM integration in Logic is not so important anymore which L8 underscores as they have added NO new TDM features.

Similar Messages

"In-page analytics" data doesn't display in Google Analytics "Content" screen since updating to Firefox 4. How can I fix this?

This feature is supposed to show the number of times visitors to your website have clicked on the various pages. It requires some google code in each page (which I have). It worked in the previous version of Firefox and still works in the iExplore browser. It stopped working after the update to FF4.0. No error messages... it just does nothing.

Thank you very much.
I scanned my computer and see that it is not a virus problem. The problem lies with FoxNews.com not being compatible with the latest Flash Player or plug-in. I can view on-site videos from within Firefox on all sites except FoxNews. It is the only site that has a huge separating space in the middle of the front page. and that displays a large area of code words where it should have an ad: "clicksor_default_url = '';clicksor_banner_border = '#99CC33'; clicksor_banner_ad_bg = '#FFFFFF';clicksor_banner_link_color = "
I ran the super bug-killer "ComboFix" (thinking the code was from the "Clicksor" virus) and was relieved to discover that it wasn't a virus.
I can easily view videos on FoxNews from within Internet Explorer (and there is no "clicksor" code displayed in IE either). The problem lies somewhere within the Firefox version of Adobe's Flash Player /plug-in or FoxNews' incompatible code. Users are being kept up-to-date with the latest Adobe updates, but FoxNews must be using old software and needs to catch up. There must be a lot of people having this problem.

How to use COMMIT and ROLLBACK in BAPIs

Hi experts,
Can we use COMMIT or ROLLBACK in the BAPI just like how we implement it in the ABAP programming ?? If it is yes,
Where can we exactly use normal COMMIT and where we use BAPI_TRANSACTION_COMMIT when we are implementing BAPIs ?
Please clarify this. Any reply is really appreciated !!
Thank you in advance.

Hi
see commit is the thing which saves the changes you made to the
database otherwise imean if u have not done the commit work what
happens is the changes will be killed once the your program life has
been killed i think you got why we will do commit work
BAPI's are the methods through which we can input the data i mean it
is an interface technique it is a direct input method.
for example you have inserted some data into one table by using this
BAPI technique but you not done the Commit BAPI then wht happens is
the changes u made to the database cannot been seen in the table these
will get effective once u have Done the Commit BAPI
i think i am clear to u
Rollback
see by taking the above example only we can know wht is Rollback it is nothing but UNDO option in ms office se untill saving if we want one step back we will do it by undo option am i right similalry untill commit ing i.e. nothing until saving the changes made u can delete the modified change i.e. u can go to the stage how it was previously ok
i think u got me
plzz reward if i am clear to u.......
see once u have done commit u cant rollback
same as once u saved one document u cant undo the document changes i think u got me
Thanks and regards
plzz dont forget to reward if i am useful....
u can contact me as my details are in my business card if u want any further clarification....

Macbook air slow shutdown

My brand new macbook air 13" seems to have a pretty slow shutdown time (20s+).
As I am new to mac I spent several days trying to find a fix without any succes.
After a shutdown I just ran a console search for a exit timeout and found the following:
01/11/13 00:04:38,068 com.apple.launchd[1]: (com.apple.appkit.xpc.openAndSavePanelService[261]) Exit timeout elapsed (20 seconds). Killing
I think this might be the problem but I am not sure which terminal command should be used to reduce the killing time.
Could anyone please help me ?

I've just read on another thread that it could be lion 10.7.1. I can't say this for sure since I immediately restored my time machine backup. I'll re-install lion and check it out, then, I'll put my time machine back.
Pffieuw, wish me luck.

Youtube video's seem to "freeze" the image while the audio continues playing. Never had that problem with Internet Explorer...how can I fix this?

I used to use a different...server?...Internet Explorer. Before, when I used that, I could watch video's on youtube and they would run smoothly-image and sound in perfect sync. Now that I'm using Firefox per suggestion of a computer savvy friend, I can't watch youtube vid's in the same way. Most of the time, the audio will keep playing, but the image will stop. The only way I've discovered to prevent this is to be playing with the mouse on the side of the screen constantly. (which, when playing music video's for background while cooking dinner in the kitchen, it's rather impractical to be running back and forth to be playing with the mouse)
I'm not a very computer savvy person. I'm using a laptop...it's an Acer...I think I have either Windows Vista or Windows 7...

Thank you very much.
I scanned my computer and see that it is not a virus problem. The problem lies with FoxNews.com not being compatible with the latest Flash Player or plug-in. I can view on-site videos from within Firefox on all sites except FoxNews. It is the only site that has a huge separating space in the middle of the front page. and that displays a large area of code words where it should have an ad: "clicksor_default_url = '';clicksor_banner_border = '#99CC33'; clicksor_banner_ad_bg = '#FFFFFF';clicksor_banner_link_color = "
I ran the super bug-killer "ComboFix" (thinking the code was from the "Clicksor" virus) and was relieved to discover that it wasn't a virus.
I can easily view videos on FoxNews from within Internet Explorer (and there is no "clicksor" code displayed in IE either). The problem lies somewhere within the Firefox version of Adobe's Flash Player /plug-in or FoxNews' incompatible code. Users are being kept up-to-date with the latest Adobe updates, but FoxNews must be using old software and needs to catch up. There must be a lot of people having this problem.

Comtrend powerline adapters - Extreme danger

I would like to post a warning to all users of Comtrend powerline units. One of mine was showing a red status light showing an error condition so I attempted to reset it by unplugging it. As I removed it from the power socket the front casing came away and my fingers strayed dangerously close to the now exposed mains voltage circuit board. It would appear that the fragile plastic mounting pillars simply sheared off. Incredibly this panel is held in place by only two screws and once the pillars shear there is nothing to stop the panel coming off. It is not as if this has been exposed to undue stress, I have probably plugged it in and removed it five times or so since it was new. A photo of the unit is at http://www.thehomeofcricket.com/comtrend.jpg
I had an absolutely farcical conversation with the gentlemen at the call centre who really didnt understand the problem or the danger and wanted to know if my broadband was working, in the end he suggested that I call an electrician!
Finally when I spoke to someone at BT Vision they insisted that the only solution is to send an engineer out, they seemed unconcerned at the potentially lethal nature of these devices. As BT apparently will not tell you this I am posting this information on all boards where BT Vision is discussed in the hope that it will prevent someone getting killed.

I think Christine & John are right, these units certainly do run hot and I think this is the reason for the plastic weakening rather than melting. I would have thought at the very least the cover would be bonded/glued to main assembly - I think these come under the category of "no user servicable parts" so should probably never be openable after manufacture - it wouldnt be cost effective for the manufacturer to repair them anyway. They carry the CE mark which now looks fairly meaningless, I wonder how many other "hot" units such as laptop transformers carrying the CE are liable to fail and or catch fire.

How to test FireWire 800 port

Hello -
My MBP's FW800 stopped working on my WD MyBook 1Terabyte Pro Edition II HD. I tested with an identical MyBook HD and same. I switched cables. Nada.
Both FW400 and USB work just fine.
Any way to test/verify the port is dead without having to take it in for service check, which means I am without a computer for a week or two?
Thanks for any sage advice given.
Steve

hi fgm14,
"If you connect a bus powered firewire device
(Firelite) in my case. You MUST NOT connect any other
firewire drive EVEN IF POWERED in either the 800 or
the 400 port"
I found this info too. I think it was the reason for "killing" the 800 port temporarily (see my post above).
In fact both, hd and camera were self-powered during capturing. In my Case there is one special aspect which MAY have caused the port-killing: I think - I'm not sure - that I disconnected the camera's power plug after capturing but let the camera-fw-400-port connected. Maybe the mbp thought (so far it is able to do? from now on the fw-400-unit is to be bus powered.
At the moment I solved it this way:
- external hd connected to the 800 port of the mbp c2d
- camera connected to 400 port of the external hd
So far it works: capturing dv-material with final cut pro to the external hd.
I find this a great pain - can anyone else confirm
this advice?
In fact it IS a great pain having 2 ports one cannot use simultanously without paying a lot of attention on how the parts are powered. Is this apple-like? I think we have to consider: it is - as the myth of apple products reliability is only a myth! I had 2 logic boards to be replaced (G4, G5; in both cases one of the two processors didn't work right from the start), three 23'' acd's were returned because low color and lightning quality before I bought a even cheaper eizo-model.
I love the apple hard- and software-designs and maybe on windows its much more trouble with the system, but is it satisfying enough?
Does Apple ever answer these forum questions - I see
no way to talk to them after 90 days.
My experience: the only way is to buy an apple care protection plan to reduce your efforts and costs for a time. Normally phone support ends up in "Please contact your local apple service provider."
Good luck
ccp
G4 · G5 · MBP C2D Mac OS X (10.4.9)

I think I killed my Mac!

Ok, first you need to know that I am “Not” a Mac guy, (I want to be though) and my Boss gave me a G4 Imac PowerPC to take home and learn on. Here at the office he gave me a G5 with 10.4.11 on it. Anyway to make a long story short, I took the little Imac home and was playing around with it and I noticed that even though I had an admin account on the computer I did not have ownership. So I decided to just reinstall the computer and have a clean start. Now you have to understand that I have been an IT engineer for 17 years and never really had much to do with Mac’s other than networking them into the Windows environment. So there I was thinking “well how hard could this be” and I attempted to wipe the drive using the disk sets Matt (my boss) gave me. He had given me 2 sets one box has a big blue X on it and reads version 10.0 the other box has another big X on it but the X has a Leopard skin on it and reads 10.2.3. So I put the blue X disk in thinking (from what I read) that you should use the original disk to wipe the computer. We it would not boot to the disk (yes I held the C key) I tried several times with both disk sets to get it to boot. Finally I decided that this was stupid and I was just wasting time, so I took the computer apart and pulled the drive out and connected to my big PC and formatted the drive. I was thinking that the Mac disk would see a clean drive and boot right into the OS so I could reinstall. This was not the case, in fact it did nothing but flash a little folder and a question mark. By now I am sure you all are laughing pretty hard but please try to understand that I am only now learning how a Mac works and believe me when I say they are very different from PC’s. Can someone please tell me how to fix this?
Thanks for your time, I am really impressed how well Mac’s work and wish I had started using them years ago. (but that’s another story)
Have a great day,
Mike,
Message was edited by: Eagle77

Wow, you really have to let go of some of those IT engineer habits. You don't have to rip the disk out to get a new OS on it. But I know the feeling when you're trying to get something done and things don't work as expected, and you're trying to use you acquired PC skills on the Mac.
The question mark simply means that the Mac can't find a bootable partition, so it's no indication that you killed it! Mac and PC use different partitioning schemes, so repartitioning on the PC (which I assume you did to be able to format the disk) will not work.
As an alternative to the c key, try d (for dvd), or alt (which brings up the boot menu, takes some time though). Also, you have to press that key as soon as you hear the chime, and keep it pressed until you see a reaction. The Mac won't start beeping at you for doing that.
Those disks are ancient, btw. The current version is 10.5.2, that's three major OS versions more recent. To get started, those should work, but I wouldn't try to do any development on such an old system.

NBOX FX5900SP 256MB....i think i killed it :evil:

Hi folks
i think i've killed my 5900SP ......... i removed both heatsinks and fans to replace the thermal grease, it looks as though i must have knocked a couple of capacitors from the card, and now it wont boot.
it gets to the bios screen which shows the different cd roms and the bios number etc..... there are white vertical stripes down the screen and then it resets and reboots and shows the same screen again before rebootin again.
i just really was wondering if there is anything that can be done for it or if all thats left is to throw it in the trash?????
Athlon64 3000+ Newcastle, thermaltake purepower 480w psu, 1GB mushkin level1 (2-3-2-5), MSI K8T Neo-FISR2 , MSi FX5900SP 256MB GFX

thank richard, thats the only choice i got lol.......RMA it(if they'll take it) or chuck it hehehehe

I think...I killed it : O

It was working fine 2 minutes ago when I was using stop watch.. It worked perfectly. Then I pluged it into 360 to listen to music but it wasn't recongnized. I moved the usb cable around a little and the sad face came up on nano followed by a battery very low signal when the battery wasn't even halfway yet. I took it out of the uneversial dock and tried turning it on but apple logo just stayed up for a minute and the battery low warning came up again and killed it... Now it won't responed to anything. Some help

Hello,
If a sad iPod icon or an exclamation point and folder icon appears on your iPod’s screen, or with sounds of clicking or HD whirring, it is usually the sign of a hard drive problem and you have the power to do something about it now. Your silver bullet of resolving your iPod issue – is to restore your iPod to factory settings.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=60983
If you're having trouble, try these steps at different levels one at a time until the issue is resolved. These steps will often whip your iPod back into shape.
Make sure you do all the following “TRYs”
A. Try to wait 30 minutes while iPod is charging.
B. Try another FireWire or USB through Dock Connector cable.
C. Try another FireWire or USB port on your computer .
D. Try to disconnect all devices from your computer's FireWire and USB ports.
E. Try to download and install the latest version of iPod software and iTunes
http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/
For old and other versions of iPod updater for window you can get here
http://www.ipodwizard.net/showthread.php?t=7369
F. Try these five steps (known as the five Rs) and it would conquer most iPod issues.
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/five_rs/
G. Try to put the iPod into Disk Mode if it fails to appear on the desktop
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651
If none of these steps address the issue, you may need to go to Intermediate level listed below in logical order. Check from the top of the lists to see if that is what keeping iPod from appearing on your computer in order for doing the Restore.
Intermediate Level
A. Try to connect your iPod with another computer with the iPod updater pre-installed.
B. Still can’t see your iPod, put it in Disk Mode and connect with a computer, instead of doing a Restore on iPod Updater. Go and format the iPod instead.
For Mac computer
1. Open the disk utility, hope your iPod appears there (left hand side), highlight it
2. Go to Tab “Partition”, click either “Delete” or “Partition”, if fails, skip this step and go to 3
3. Go to Tab “Erase” , choose Volume Format as “MAC OS Extended (Journaled), and click Erase, again if fails, skip it and go to 4
4. Same as step 3, but open the “Security Options....” and choose “Zero Out Data” before click Erase. It will take 1 to 2 hours to complete.
5. Eject your iPod and do a Reset
6. Open the iTunes 7 and click “Restore”
For Window computer
Go to folder “My Computer”
Hope you can see your iPod there and right click on the iPod
Choose “Format”. Ensure the settings are at “Default” and that “Quick Format” is not checked
Now select “Format”
Eject your iPod and do a Reset
Open the iTunes 7 and click “Restore”
In case you do not manage to do a “Format” on a window computer, try to use some 3rd party disk utility software, e.g.“HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool”.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=501330&tstart=0
C. Windows users having trouble with their iPods should locate a Mac user. In many cases when an iPod won't show up on a PC that it will show up on the Mac. Then it can be restored. When the PC user returns to his computer the iPod will be recognized by the PC, reformatted for the PC, and usable again. By the way, it works in reverse too. A Mac user often can get his iPod back by connecting it to a PC and restoring it.
Tips
a. It does not matter whether the format is completed or not, the key is to erase (or partly) the corrupted firmware files on the Hard Drive of the iPod. After that, when the iPod re-connected with a computer, it will be recognized as an fresh external hard drive, it will show up on the iTunes 7.
b. It is not a difficult issue for a Mac user to find a window base computer, for a PC user, if they can’t find any Mac user, they can go to a nearest Apple Shop for a favor.
c. You may need to switch around the PC and Mac, try to do several attempts between “Format” and “Restore”
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2364921&#2364921
Advance Level
A. Diagnostic mode solution
If you have tried trouble shooting your iPod to no avail after all the steps above, chances are your iPod has a hardware problem. The iPod's built-in Diagnostic Mode is a quick and easy way to determine if you have a "bad" iPod.
You need to restart your iPod before putting it into Diagnostic Mode. Check that your hold switch is off by sliding the switch away from the headphone jack. Toggle it on and off to be safe.
Press and hold the following combination of buttons simultaneously for approximately 10 seconds to reset the iPod.
iPod 1G to 3G: "Menu" and "Play/Pause"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Menu" and "Select"
The Apple logo will appear and you should feel the hard drive spinning up. Press and hold the following sequence of buttons:
iPod 1G to 3G: "REW", "FFW" and "Select"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Back" and "Select"
You will hear an audible chirp sound (3G models and higher) and the Apple logo should appear backwards. You are now in Diagnostic Mode. Navigate the list of tests using "REW" and "FFW". The scroll wheel will not function while in diagnostic mode. For further details on Diagnostic mode can be found at http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/diagnosticmode/
Try to do the 5in1, HDD R/W and HDD scan tests. Some successful cases have been reported after the running the few tests under the Diagnostic mode. In case it does not work in your case, and the scan tests reports show some errors then it proves your iPod has a hardware problem and it needs a repairing service.
B. Format your iPod with a start disk
I have not tried this solution myself, I heard that there were few successful cases that the users managed to get their iPod (you must put your iPod in disk mode before connecting with a computer) mounted by the computer, which was booted by a system startup disk. For Mac, you can use the Disk Utility (on the Tiger OS system disk), for PC user, you can use the window OS system disk. Try to find a way to reformat your iPod, again it does not matter which format (FAT32, NTFS or HFS+) you choose, the key is to erase the corrupted system files on the iPod. Then eject your iPod and do a Reset to switch out from Disk Mode. Reboot your computer at the normal way, connect your iPod back with it, open the iPod updater, and hopefully your iPod will appear there for the Restore.
If none of these steps address the issue, your iPod may need to be repaired.
Consider setting up a mail-in repair for your iPod http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/
Or visit your local Apple Retail Store http://www.apple.com/retail/
In case your iPod is no longer covered by the warranty and you want to find a second repairing company, you can try iPodResQ at your own risk
http://www.ipodresq.com/index.php
Just in case that you are at the following situation
Your iPod warranty is expired
You don’t want to pay any service charges
You are prepared to buy a new one
You can’t accept the re-sell value of your broken iPod
Rather than leave your iPod as paper-weight or throw it away.
You can try the following, but again, only do it as your last resort and at your own risk.
Warning !!!! – It may or may not manage to solve your problem, and with a risk that you may further damage your iPod, which end up as an expensive paper weight or you need to pay more higher repairing cost. Therefore, please re-consider again whether you want to try the next level
Last Resort Level
1. . Disconnecting the Hard Drive and battery inside the iPod – Warning !! Your iPod warranty will be waived once you open the iPod.
In Hong Kong there are some electronic shops offering an iPod service for Sad iPod, the first thing they do is to open up the iPod’s case and disconnecting the battery and the Hard Drive from the main board of the iPod. Wait for 5-10 minutes and reconnecting them back. The reason behind which I can think of is to do a fully reset of a processor of the iPod. In case you want do it itself and you believe that you are good on fixing the electronics devices and have experience to deal with small bits of electronic parts, then you can read the following of how to open the iPod case for battery and HDD replacement (with Quicktimes)
http://eshop.macsales.com/tech_center/index.cfm?page=Video/directory.html
2.Press the reset button on the Hard Drive inside the iPod – Suggestion from Kill8joy
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2438774#2438774
Have I tried these myself? No, I am afraid to do it myself as I am squeamish about tinkering inside electronic devices, I have few experiences that either I broke the parts (which are normally tiny or fragile) or failed to put the parts back to the main case. Therefore, I agree with suggestion to have it fixed by a Pro.
2. Do a search on Google and some topics on this discussion forum about “Sad iPod”
Exclamation point and folder and nothing else
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3597173#3597173
Exclamation point and folder and nothing else
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2831962#2831962
What should I do with my iPod? Send it or keep it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=469080&tstart=0
Strange error on iPod (probably death)
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435160&start=0&tstart=0
Sad Face on iPod for no apparent reason
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=336342&start=0&tstart=0
Meeting the Sad iPod icon
http://askpang.typepad.com/relevanthistory/2004/11/meeting_thesad.html#comment-10519524
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2236095#2236095
iPod Photo: unhappy icon + warranty question
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2233746#2233746
4th Gen iPod Users - are we all having the same problem?
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2235623#2235623
Low Battery, and clicking sounds
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2237714#2237714
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2242018#2242018
Sad iPod solution
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=412033&tstart=0
Re: try to restore ipod and it says "can't mount ipod"
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=443659&tstart=30
iPod making clicking noise and is frozen
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2420150#2420150
Cant put it into disk mode
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3786084#3786084
I think my iPod just died its final death
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3813051
Apple logo & monochrome battery stay
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3827167#3827167
I am not suggesting that you should follow as well, but just read them as your reference. You are the person to make the call.
Finally, I read a fair comments from dwb, regarding of slapping the back of the iPod multiple times
Quote “This has been discussed numerous times as a 'fix'. It does work, at least for a while. In fact I remember using the same basic trick to revive Seagate and Quantam drives back in the mid to late 1980's. Why these tiny hard drives go bad I don't know - could be the actuator gets stuck in place or misaligned. Could be the platter gets stuck or the motor gets stuck. 'Stiction' was a problem for drives back in the 80's. Unfortunately the fix can cause damage to the platter so we temporarily fix one problem by creating another. But I know of two instances where a little slap onto the table revived the iPods and they are still worked a year or more later.”UnQuote

Everytime I open FFox I find over 400 cookies on my machine despite clearing history, deleting them etc - please help me eliminate them I think they are killing my computer!

Thank you for the opportunity to submit this query and hurray for the volunteers who will tackle it! Thank you!
on opening FFox, I routinely run Tools/View Cookies and clear my Error Console. I INVARIABLY find over 400 cookie directories arranged in two "lists". I clear them with Delete All Cookies and carry on.
I have tried limiting cookie access (ie: no 3rd party), and I have cleared my History including Cookies, BUT everytime I open FFox, they are all back!
I have even installed a Mozilla Cookie Killer plug-in, but though it may work, the little buggers are back the very next time I open FFox.
I believe their presence is seriously degrading my old but much loved Dell Inspiron 6400's performance and I would dearly love to be able to remove them permanently.
If you could help I would be very grateful.
Cheers and best wishes,
Patrick
Launceston Tasmania Australia

That's going to be a ridiculous waste of money and energy.
First of all, the current ATI drivers don't support multiple GPUs, so at the moment even a single 4870X2 would be only a 'normal' 4870 (which is quite a speed beast already). GFX drivers evolve rapidly, so things might look different next month, but when it comes to Linux and hardware there's one Golden Rule: stay away from the newest stuff and wait for proper support to get coded.
I also wonder what power supply could possibly cope with the differences between idle and full load; that's way beyond 400W. But then, I'm one of those "quiet&green" types where >100W idle is already a bit much.
I kind of understand that you want to get it done and not worry about hardware for the next 10 years or so, but that's simply not how the hardware world works and never did. At least not for the average consumer.

I think I've killed my partner's lenovo S10e

My partner's S10e had developed (the infamous) cracks near the hinges -on the RHS it was hanging on with duct tape...with wires visible
Then the power cable supply developed a fault (loose wire just before the plug into the computer) - computer lost all power as we were trying to copy a file off there...we ordered a new adaptor -so I decided I'd better take a look at the hinges...
Downloaded the hardware manual and followed the instructions -removed the battery, hard drive, palm rest, keyboard and keyboard bezel -no problems - then realised that the metal hinge had snapped ...decided that would be too much like hard work to replace- so bodged it better with tape and wood external support - and put it all back together...again no obvious problems tried it - the windows screen flash up for a second and then it died - thought maybe it was just because the battery was flat/no power
When the new supply arrived tried it again - dead - no LED lit
The power supply cable seems ok (tested plug with multimeter)
So have removed the battery, hard drive and DIMM - no luck - so removed everything I did before and can't see any problems -the blue LED flashes for a micro second when the power is supplied (not sure if it always did that and I didn't notice before or not)
So does anyone know what the problem is? Have I killed the motherboard? Any suggestions ?

Could be most anything. Could well be something that was damaged prior to you touching it that finally gave up. Broken hinge suggests some less than tender care so might be that care started things toward doom.
As to what you can do, try tapping around the case and see if anything changes, if it does it might be a loose wire/connection. Be sure the new power supply is actually putting out what it is supposed to. Pull battery and power supply press and hold power swithc ten seconds, try the reset if there is one.

Is any one able to make Siri understand the word "contempt", my Siri just keep thinking I'm saying content. It's killing me

My topic explains it all.

This has been an annoyance of mine for awhile. I would love to be able to designate which calendars "count" when siri is thinking about me.

I think the new update for the ellipsis 7 killed my tablet, please help?

I have an ellipsis 7 tablet and yesterday i decided to give it is update. my tablet started to up date and then the screen turned black. when i finally turned off i tried to turn it on, it showed the powered by android screen and then turned black while still lit up. ever since i tried to update it that is all it will do besides show me the battery symbol when i plug it in. Ive have tried everything, charging it, factory reset letting it die completely and trying to reset it, everything. Why has this update killed my tablet and can you please help?

Oh no! That's definitely not good, Krista001. We're here to help out with your Ellipsis tablet. I appreciate all the troubleshooting steps you have done thus far. Just to confirm, the alternate restart method where you hold down the power button for about 15-20 seconds did not restart your tablet like normal either?
If it is still experiencing issues, please reach out to customer service at 1-800-922-0204 for further assistance. You may also send us a DM to if you like. Please accept my Follow request, and then Follow me back. You should now be able to send us a DM.
NicandroN_VZW
Follow us on twitter @VZWSupport

HELP! I think I killed my Mac!

I have a Mirrored door, 1 ghz dual, G4 that I bought new in 2002. I recently needed to do some upgrades and I think I exceeded it's capacity and fried it!
I recently upgraded (a month ago) to 2 ghz of ram, added a 20" LCD monitor, and added a 4th internal drive 2 nights ago (500 ghz ATA, joining my 2 old 80 gig drives and a 20 gig drive). The new HD was added in desperation when my external 230 gig drive went down with all my UNbacked up files on it. I was able to getthe drive working again and desperate to get everything on all my drives backed up. Finished backing everything up to the 500 yesterday morning and everything seemed fine... then last night I was reading email and suddenly my screen went blue and wouldn't come back. I restarted and at first the power wouldn't even come on... or the button lighted up and then died out before the start up tone. I thought maybe the power supply couldn't handle the load, so after letting it cool down for a long time, I unhooked 2 of the internal drives... leaving my startup and 500 gig running. This time the power came on, start up sound played and the button stayed light (and I could hear fans), but the monitor stayed black. I turned the monitor on and off and got the little "analog / digital" box in the upper left corner for a couple minutes and it seemed like the screen lightened a tiny but, but then it gave up and went black again.
Soooo... is my mac dead... the motherboard fried... or could it just be my graphics card? How can I tell?
I'm in the middle of several huge deadlines and need to resolve this NOW... if it can't be fixed today I need to buy a new Mac immediately, get everything installed and get the deadlines done by Monday even if I work all day and night through the weekend, so I'd really appreciate advice ASAP.
I have every reason to believe my data is intact... but if I get a new Mac, is there anyway to move my internal drive to the new Mac so I don't have to reinstall all of my software or is that just an exquisite form of suicide?
If I get a Mac Pro (w/intel processor) will my regular Mac OSX software still work ok? Or Should I go for a G5 machine for convenience?
HELP!
G4 dual 1Ghz, Mirrored Door Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
Unfortunately this goes to prove why backups should be external, not internal. Neither G5 nor Intel Macs support ATA/IDE drives directly. They use the new SATA technology. However, a Firewire/IDE hard drive case will let you use the old hard drives on a new Mac. The G5 Mac has better support for Mac OS 9 applications, though not as good as a non-Firewire 800 Mirror Dual G4 (the Firewire 800 Dual G4 only could use Classic and couldn't boot Mac OS 9), and the Intel Macs have no support for Mac OS 9 at all. In addition if your applications have no Universal equivalent they may run slower on an Intel Mac than a G5 as my FAQ explains:
http://www.macmaps.com/macosxnative.html#INTEL
Macmaps will be down briefly today for an upgrade.
If once you connect the old hard drives you aren't able to see them on the new machine, you may want to use some of the tools on my backup FAQ:
http://www.macmaps.com/backup.html
and directory FAQ:
http://www.macmaps.com/directoryfaq.html
In the worst case scenario you may be forced to use a data recovery firm.
Good luck in retrieving your data!

PT killer?.....I think so

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for