Purchased the Sony Tablet in June 2012, started to shut down during regular use (blank screen, swirl

I am a long time Sony customer… mostly TVs and other entertainment items.
Purchased the Sony Tablet in June 2012, started to shut down during regular use (blank screen, swirly lights comes on, and soft reset required) in September 2012.
December 2012, issue started to take place more frequent (to the point it was too annoying).
Sent the tablet in for repair before X-Mas and just got it back from the TX repair center yesterday (1/14/13).
They replaced the motherboard.
1/15/13, 11:49AM, the same issue happened.
I am asked to mail it in again, so they can fix the issue.
I like Sony products, but this is something new for me.
I like to know if this is common for the tablet, please share story.
My concerns are:
They replaced the motherboard (that is pretty much the core of the tablet!)
What do I do when my warranty expires in June 2013 and the issue is still there?

I and many others have the same issue. You can an find some links to reported issues in my thread.
Sony has yet to acknowledge the issue and define whether it is software or hardware based. This lack of communication is very disheartening.

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New Build, personal use and doing it myself:
BOARD: MSI Z77A-G45
BIOS: *?* click-bios reports "E7752IMS V2.5", but "MS-7752 VER: 1.4" printed on board?
PSU: Thermaltake 850-watt Black Widow 69A 12v rail
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K BX80667i73770K - Quad Core, 8MB L3 Cache, 3.50GHz, 77W, Unlocked, fan included, no extra cooler yet
MEM: Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B 2x4GB 1600 MHz, 9-9-9-24, PC3-12800, 1.5V
HDD: WD Blue WD10EALX 1TB, SATA 6Gbs, 7200RPM, 32MB Cache
CASE: Thermaltake VN770M1W2N Overseer RX-I Full Tower
OS: Win7 Pro 64-bit
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Have done CMOS clears and also re-seated the cpu and heatsink/fan, and all pins and board connections looked OK.
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2) I have not yet removed the board and tried to start it outside the case - could a short be causing the 2nd slot to malfunction? Standoffs are built into the case but they didn't seem too low, and the amount of standoffs matched the mobo mounting holes wiwth nothing else protruding. It's a really solid board that did not bend when being attached. It's also possible to look down behind the board with the front cover off and see that nothing is touching it. Will breadboard it next, since I have to take it out, anyway.
3) Where exactly is the Bios version printed on the board? Click Bios reports version as 2.5 but appears that 1.4 is marked on the board. Have done no updates of any kind, only thing I did was disable the splash screen so I could see POST (like I could read that fast...!). Do I need to contact MSI to find out what Bios version actually shipped with this board? It's OK if I got an older board with updated BIOS, but it's confusing when something different appears to be printed on board.
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I'm currently working from an ASUS M3A78-CM board with AMD Phenom 9650 2.4 GHz. I've never dealt with an MSI or an Intel system before, and the Click-Bios is something new to me. Alas, I'm not an expert, but I've followed the basic steps I knew. What did I do wrong, overlook or just plain don't know? I sure would appreciate another opinion before I give up. I'm amazed at the speed of this motherboard/CPU combo - it's probably more than I need, but I'm intrigued to figure it out.
Looking forward to those opinions,
Jilliebob

Quote
Do this, and while it is in the open re-examine your cpu pins w/ a bight light and hd zoom or a magnifying glass.
Thanks, xmad, I'll look at th CPU again tomorrow/next day under the glass when I take the board out. I already checked them under magnification and was leaning toward a funky board, but it never hurts to re-check. Eyesight is not what it used to be, for sure (I miss DOS, if that's a clue...). Don't want to flash the BIOS if not necessary, since it runs Windows fine and everything works except that RAM.
Bernhard, I don't have CPU-Z installed on that machine and don't want to install anything else until it's working normally. I'd never seen Click-Bios before and just need to get over my initial suspicion of something new! Also learn my way around it before I change anything. I'd never encountered a board reporting a bios different than printed on it. I've never messed with manual memory settings or done more overclocking than just a little exploratory and suprisingly successful nudge - if you could point me toward a good basic explaination of all those settings, I could learn from there.
Appreciate your input very much.
Have learned a lot just reading the threads here for the last few days. This is the best forum I've ever encountered. I'll report back - some suggestions in other posts resembling my problem ended with no resolution, and that's a shame because one doesn't know if it worked or not.

Solved Vista Home Premium Start up / shut down loop

Ta Da The C:\windows\winsxs ETC. that was my solution found it on this site and other sites and decided to try it:
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I have an HP Pavilion m 7580n ( Media Center) that is locked in a start up shut down loop.
It starts normally and runs up normally until the desktop flashes on the screen for about 3 seconds. At this point It is still loading things like the Internet connection , Icon indicates connected, nvidia control panel icon. It never gets any further than that.....?
if I am fast enough to dbl click an icon it will load whatever the icon represents but will immediately flash to the "Shutting down" screen. It then shuts down and auto starts the loop again.
I have also tried ctrl / alt / del and I get there but it crashes instantly.
The machine is now running Vista Home Premium. Upgraded from XP by an online download so I have no OEM disk.
I dont know if it is 32 or 64 bit I would guess 32 as it was an XP upgrade
What I have tried so far
I have ruled out ANY Hardware problems by swapping hard drives and loading a different OS. Win 7 on it and everything works fine for hours. Benchmarks, stress tests, temp tests, games, mem tests
I have made a vista repair disk and tried all of the "Non Destructive" options available.
I have tried every safe mode option.
I have hooked the problem hard drive to another computer and accessed it that way, and ran virus scanners
and clean and repair programs. No Bad sectors, clusters, nothing bad
I have removed all "Junk" and files I can replace
I have striped all unnecessary hardware. swapped RAM, Vid Cards ETC.
I have tried all of the above both connected and not connected to the Internet and everything many times and many differant combinations.
Nothing has made any difference at all
A little history of the machine.
It was bought second hand with the Vista Installed and came with a paper sticker with a hologram
and a Key That was apparently mailed after the online update ?
It was activated and displayed windows genuine logo in System Folder
It received updates automatically and by request no problems.
I mention this only because I cannot be absolute certain it is a legal copy and was wondering if this is some sort of disabling of pirated software or an expired demo?
It was used in a cottage where it could possibly of had a power failure during an auto update. I mention this as some update problems resemble my problem. I have shied away from trying those fixes as they involve elevated commands and such and my knowledge in that area is very limited. and I dont have any of the stages loading screens
It would be easy for me to format and reload an OS But the files I want are protected and I cant access them from another computer.
I havent Listed any Hardware as I am satisfied it is not a hardware issue However it is the AMD X 2 64 version
Any Non hardware related suggestions would be appreciated as I am certain this hardware all works
I get no BSOD's no errors.
Thanks for reading my lament

Quote
Do this, and while it is in the open re-examine your cpu pins w/ a bight light and hd zoom or a magnifying glass.
Thanks, xmad, I'll look at th CPU again tomorrow/next day under the glass when I take the board out. I already checked them under magnification and was leaning toward a funky board, but it never hurts to re-check. Eyesight is not what it used to be, for sure (I miss DOS, if that's a clue...). Don't want to flash the BIOS if not necessary, since it runs Windows fine and everything works except that RAM.
Bernhard, I don't have CPU-Z installed on that machine and don't want to install anything else until it's working normally. I'd never seen Click-Bios before and just need to get over my initial suspicion of something new! Also learn my way around it before I change anything. I'd never encountered a board reporting a bios different than printed on it. I've never messed with manual memory settings or done more overclocking than just a little exploratory and suprisingly successful nudge - if you could point me toward a good basic explaination of all those settings, I could learn from there.
Appreciate your input very much.
Have learned a lot just reading the threads here for the last few days. This is the best forum I've ever encountered. I'll report back - some suggestions in other posts resembling my problem ended with no resolution, and that's a shame because one doesn't know if it worked or not.

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17" 2.2GHz i7 Quad-Core MacBook Pro  8G RAM  750G HD + OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Boot HD 
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 In Memory of Steve Jobs 

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Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
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Release the (left side) Shift (⇧), Control (⌃), and Option (⌥) keys and the Power Button at the same time.
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Note: This will not delete any data.
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Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
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Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
Turn on the computer by pressing the Power Button.
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Continue to hold down the keys until the computer restarts and you hear the startup chime for the second time.
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Repairing a disk using Disk Utility on the Recovery HD.
Note: This should not delete any information or files from the disk.
Repairing a disk can help solve various file-related issues.
Make sure the computer is powered off before continuing.
Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
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Select Disk Utility.
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Then, choose the Repair Disk button on the right.
If the Repair Disk button is grey or unavailable, select Verify Disk and then select Repair Disk.
If this does not solve your issues, you may have no choice but to reformat the drive using Disk Utility.
You should also repair your startup disk’s disk permissions as well.
Repairing a disk’s permissions using Disk Utility on the Recovery HD.
Note: This should not delete any information or files from the disk.
Repairing a disk's permissions can help solve various file-related issues.
Make sure the computer is powered off before continuing.
Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
Press and hold both the R and Command (⌘) keys on the keyboard until the Recovery partition loads. If this does not work, shut down the computer, press the Power Button to turn on the computer, and then hold in the Alt (⌥) button immediately after you press the power button. Then, select the Recovery HD partition to boot up in the Recovery HD partition.
Select Disk Utility.
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Then, choose the Repair Disk Permissions button on the right.
If this does not solve your issues, continue on and run Apple Hardware Test.
Using Apple Hardware Test to troubleshoot a hardware problem
Your issues might be caused by a hardware problem. Running Apple Hardware Test can help you solve this problem by showing you the faulty hardware.
Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
Press and hold the D key on the keyboard before the grey starting screen appears.
Continue to hold the D key until the loading screen shows up. You should see a globe.
When AHT has loaded, select your Language and then press the Return (↩) key.
Select the Perform Extended Testing checkbox located under the Test button.
Press the T key, select the Test button, or press the Return (↩) key to start running the diagnostics.
Report any issues it shows in a reply.
If Apple Hardware Test does not show any issues, continue on and reinstall OS X.
If Apple Hardware Test does show any issues, report them in a reply.
Reinstall OS X
Note: This will not erase any data on the disk. However, it is highly recommended that you create a backup before continuing.
Reinstalling OS X can solve various problems such as corrupt system files.
Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
Press and hold both the R and Command (⌘) keys on the keyboard until the Recovery partition loads.
Select Reinstall OS X and then choose Continue.
Follow the instructions.
If your computer still does not boot up
If your computer still does not boot up, it may be due to a hardware problem or software conflict.
Make an appointment with an authorized Apple service center or by making an appointment at the Genius Bar by going to this link:
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Austin

I have a 2007 macbook that is stuck on the loading page and after a while it shuts down by itself. I don't know what to do anymore please help!!!

I have a 2007 macbook that is stuck on the loading page and after a while it shuts down by itself. I don't know what to do anymore please help!!!

Hello Sebas4224
Start with the article below to troubleshoot issues with your MacBook starting up and staying on. Let me know how it goes in case it does not help and I or others can assist you further.
Mac OS X: Gray screen appears during startup
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2570
Regards,
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Purchased the Sony Tablet in June 2012, started to shut down during regular use (blank screen, swirl

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