Puzzled about what taste has to do with screen calibration.

I want to calibrate my screen so that when I edit pictures they will have the best chance at looking the same to others on other screens as they do to me, and will look as closely as possible on screen as they might on paper if I choose to print them.
In that case, I don't understand why discussions about calibration involve steps where something is adjusted to taste. In particular, if I calibrate with the Huey pro, at the end of the exercise, it asks me to choose the gamma and color temperature to suit my preference. But if I change the gamma, the picture changes in appearance, without changing any actual values in the picture settings. Doesn't this mean that I'm changing the appearance *to me* without affecting its appearance for anyone else. Doesn't that defeat the whole purpose of calibration. Please enlighten me.

The resultant for anything visual is the human eye which varies from person to person so preference and taste become factors.

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Adobe Flash doesn't open some videos. It did work prior to software update. It has to do with settings - but I don't know which or what?

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What 17" laptop for photoshop with screen capable of uniform brightness and good viewing angles ?

Hi
Whilst I gather that an IPS screen is the must have for quality, I have just found out that such is not the end of the search, but the start, as they can vary,
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Searching further I found the Envy has a 15.6" screen.
Can I get opinions on these specs?
Price
$1,753.99*
Instant rebate
-$250.00
Total:
$1,503.99
Components
• Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
• System Recovery DVD with Genuine Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
• 3rd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3610QM Processor (2.3 GHz, 6MB L3 Cache) I could have chosen a bit faster GHz, but it added quite a bit more to the cost. This is a quad 4, isn't it?
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LR2.7 colour difference with screen calibration

Bonjour,
The thread title mirrors my perplexity:
I have calibrated my new Asus 246Q screen with a I1 unit. The profile is 'correct'
Viewed with the Windows image viewer & comparing with the Kodak printer check files, I obtain a good correspondence with the screen OS in 'scenery mode' ( oddly, better than in RGB, although this screen reflects 95% RGB)
However, when I view the check file in LR2.7 ( or PSE7 ), I obtain a jaundiced image ( Lady's face!) and pronounced desaturation of all colours.
The printed image - canon printer newly calibrated professionally ( I am a rank amateur ) - corresponds to the LR2.7 file.
Thus, I am at loss as to how to deal with the problem : both screen & printer seem correctly calibrated but LR2 is off on colour.
Thanks for any available help.

Your Asus PA256Q is a wide-gamut monitor: http://www.asus.com/Display/LCD_Monitors/PA246Q/
When using a wide gamut monitor with non-color managed applications the colors may appear muted with hue shifted. See this post for an explanation:
http://photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00SlmZ
You are experiencing the exact opposite, which indicates your monitor calibration is improper and may have been performed with the display set in the wrong mode. The Asus PA256Q monitor comes with a factory calibrated 'Adobe RGB Mode:'
"Each PA246Q is pre-calibrated with a maximum ΔE (Delta E) of less than 5. Ensures precise reading of color input and guarantees excellent color fidelity."
When you do your own calibration with the i1 Display 2 monitor calibrator what display mode setting are you using? Does the Asus user manual provide detailed instructions on performing your own monitor calibrations as to what settings to use? Have you tried the display's 'Adobe RGB Mode,' and what does your user manual say concerning the ICC profile to be used with this "factory calibrated mode? You either have a user setup problem, or a defective monitor!
Try testing Lightroom with the factory adjusted Adobe RGB mode setup, making sure you follow all instructions concerning display settings and recommended monitor profile. If Lightroom still doesn’t look right with the factory calibrated Adobe RGB mode setup, then the display is probably defective. If Lightroom images now look good, then your setup procedure for creating custom monitor profiles with the i1 Display 2 calibrator has a flaw. Read the user manual, or try contacting Asus technical support:
http://service.asus.com/products_lcd.html
Possibility #2: The standard i1 Display 2 monitor calibrator color filters are optimized for sRGB gamut displays. Only the "custom" i1 calibrators sold with NEC (MDVSENSOR2) and EIZO bundles have wide gamut optimized filters. I'm not sure if this could be a part of your calibration problem, since I would assume the onscreen calibration differences to be fairly subtle.
Once you have a proper "wide gamut" viewing setup with Lightroom you will need to switch the display’s view mode setting to 'sRGB:' when using non-color managed applications such as web browsers and Microsoft Office applications, etc. The other alternative is to use two monitors – Wide gamut for color managed applications, and standard (sRGB) display for everything else.
I suggest NOT using the preset modes Scenery, Theatre, or Standard, except perhaps for viewing movies – As already stated these are uncalibrated modes:
Asus PA246Q SPLENDID Video Preset Modes: 6 Modes (Adobe RGB Mode, sRGB Mode, Scenery Mode, Theater Mode, Standard Mode, User Mode)

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1. How do I go about registering the Touch to my own Apple account? She has her own Apple/iTunes account (she also has a gen 2 Nano and a gen 2 Shuffle), and I want to be able to sync it with my own account. I realize that the songs and videos will be lost in the transition, but that's irrelevant to me.
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Thinking about replacing my sons old ipod with the new fifth genertation.can i just sync the new one with the computer so he doesn't lose what he currently has stored on his old one

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Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
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a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
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b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
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Best Buy lies in their ad about what they will do with their calibration!

Best Buy lies in their ad about what they will do with their calibration!
The ad that promotes Best Buy calibration here:
http://images.bestbuy.com/BestBuy_US/en_US/images/abn/2008/tvv/pcon/BestBuy_HDTV_Calibration.pdf?h=4...
clearly states:
A calibration session
includes two inputs on
the set, so if you have a
DVD player and cable
box, for example, the
HDTV’s inputs will be
calibrated specifically
for the video output
from those two devices.
Calibration also
adjusts the sound levels
and positioning of the
speakers in a surroundsound setup, so your
entire home theater
will look and sound as
good as it can
The actual calibration you get is:
No Audio, just the picture!
The following are NOT included with this service:
Setup of audio or video components
You were warned!

DarkWingDUCK wrote:
This is right, calibration does not include setting up of audio or video components. A calibration tech will makes sure, for instance, your 5.1 system has the speakers in the correct position. If your rear-left is in the front soundstage, that can be corrected on site. Most of what they do on site is run the auto-calibration software on an AV receiver if it has not already been done. Other than that, you can opt to pay up to $800 for a full-fledged ISF or THX calibration from an independent calibrator. You get a very good value for the $199.
The service provides a "video" calibration, not audio.
Well in that website link I provided and in the "First Glimpse" magazine they give you at the store, page 17, says they offer more than what you said:
Calibration also adjusts the sound levels and positioning of the speakers in a surroundsound setup, so your entire home theater will look and sound as good as it can.

About what can be done with free tools today

Hi,
I'm quite new to MHP and JavaTV. I've seen many web pages that informed me about MHP (like Steve's one, thanks if you see this message), but I'm still a bit confused about what can and cannot be done with the free tools available today, eg XleTView, openMHP or others.
I'd like to fetch a DVB stream (or an object carousel? I'm not sure about it) from a DVB-T card (which has BDA drivers) and access it with MHP (in order to find which services are available, etc...).
Tell me if I'm wrong, I think XleTView or openMHP can't access my DVB-T card, it's just useful to test Xlets.
Is there a way to have it access the DVB-T card, or even a stream or an object carousel that would be on my hard drive?
Many thanks, and sorry for the silly questions.

[oops]
when I say "it's just useful to test Xlets", I don't want to say it does only minor things. I understand all the MHP stuff is complex to implement, so don't take it bad, I just expressed myself the wrong way :)
I'm grateful to the programmers who help to do this. Thanks!
[oops]

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Hey there Galileo,
It sounds like your iPhone screen is solid white and you cannot do anything with it. Take a look at these steps from the following article about that kind of issue:
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If you see a solid color screen (black, white or blue)
Plug in your device to a power source. If you see the low-battery screen when you plug in, let your device charge for at least 10 minutes (20 minutes for iPad) before using it.
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HT1551 When i tried to purchase a movie, My Apple TV said it would take 11 hours to load. Any ideas about what to do or what is going on with that?

When i tried to purchase a movie, My Apple TV said it would take 11 hours to load. Any ideas about what to do or what is going on with that?

It always has a very high number at the beginning, but it never takes that long....
However, it can take several hours....I've found this to be true on any device or computer I've downloaded movies or tv shows on - Mac, PC, iPad, Kindle Fire....you name it.
However, even if it does take a long time, that does not prevent you from starting to watch it as soon as it has done a little downloading. Here is the Apple link for typical download times:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1577
Here is a link with Purchased Movie FAQs:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1906#faq24
Cheers,
GB

OK, I'm perplexed. I've been a mac user for almost 30 years. My entire ecosystem is Mac and I remained with mac through the dark 90s. What apple has does in the past 2 years is unbelieveable. I just upgraded to 10.86, then 10.9, no end of problems

OK, I'm perplexed. I've been a mac user for almost 30 years. My entire ecosystem is Mac and I remained with mac through the dark 90s. What apple has does in the past 2 years is unbelieveable. I just upgraded to 10.86, then 10.9, no end of problems.
I can no longer mirror and of my monitors VGA or HDMI, my itunes which supplies iphone and ipad has disabled podcast app so that I can't listen to my favorite programs and I find out after the fact that Office software is not compatible with OSX 8.6.
Forget about the fact that itunes looks like it was developed by a 1980s MS-DOS programmer. Its kludgy, limited and generally does not work.
What does one do? Frankly, I used to use macs because they were like info appliances that just worked. Now the time to manage tech glitches from the company has become way too costly. Sadly, Apple has become Microsoft and Microsoft seems to become Apple.

"... as do the users who are downloading recent OSXs in record numbers."
USUALLY YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU DOWNLOAD UNTIL YOU HAVE IT !!!
APPLE USED TO HAVE GREAT STUFF BUT OBVIOUSLY TRIES TO INVENT FOR THE SAKE OF INVENTING !!!
THIS IS ACTUALLY A STEP BACKWARDS (TO MS).
CALENDAR & CONTACTS SYNC VIA ICLOUD ONLY IS AN ABSOLUTE NO GO !!!
@APPLE: FIX THIS ASAP !!!

Hi I bought an iPhone 5 from a friend. but he got it as a warranty replacement from Apple so he has no paperwork with the serial/IMEI. I need that kind of paperwork to be able to use my phone at work. what do I do to get it?

Hi I bought an iPhone 5 from a friend. but he got it as a warranty replacement from Apple so he has no paperwork with the serial/IMEI. I need that kind of paperwork to be able to use my phone at work. what do I do to get it?

That information, and more, can be found in the About page of the settings. Tap Settings > General > About and you'll see a lot of information about the device.

Puzzled about what *taste* has to do with screen calibration.

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Puzzled about what taste has to do with screen calibration.