Qiucktime video too bright when finished!

Why is the final Quicktime video always a lot brighter than it looks while I am working on it in FCP?
Thanks.

I don't know. I need to do some testing.
I posed the same questions recently here (and was surprised no one chimed in with a definitive 'answer'):
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2469123&tstart=0
My guess is that I'd turn off the FCP feature in QT7 (and only use QT7 for the features it has but QT10 does not), but be aware that QT7 videos look a bit different even with that turned off.

Similar Messages

7D Video Too Bright

Hi, I'm fairly new to the 7D. I thought I had all my video settings correct, but when taking a video outside it is either too bright or washed out. I set all my settings in Manual mode then I saved it to a custom setting. Upon taking video, my Exposure Level Meter is automatically metering very high. I would sincerely appreciate it if anyone could point me into the right direction for correction. Thanks, Ray
My settings are as follows;
Quick Mode
1920x1080 @24frames
Shutter Speed - 1/50
Aperture - f/2.8
ISO - 160
AF Point Expansion
Landscape
Cloudy (used for warmth)
Evalutive
Auto Lighting Optimizer - Off

I'm not surprised your exposure meter is telling you that your exposure is very high... if you are outside during the daytime and using those settings, then it's because it actually is very high.
When you are using 'manual' mode the metering doesn't control the exposure. The light meter is only reporting information to you... in other words it is offering you "advice" which you can choose to take or ignore. But the meter will not change the camera settings when you are in "manual" mode... it uses the settings YOU dial in.
I'm wondering why you chose 1/50th, f/2.8, and ISO 160.
That would produce an extremely over-exposed shot if you are outside in daytime.
In full mid-day sun, at f/16, the shutter speed can be set to the inverse of the ISO setting. This is called the "Sunny 16 Rule". It was a guideline developed back in the days before cameras had light meters as a way to help photographers remember common exposure settings without having to meter the light.
So at ISO 100 you can use a shutter speed of 1/100th. But the rule goes on to say that in light overcast (this is when you have thin clouds... but you can still see objects casting a shadow) you lose 1 stop of light (half the light) and can make up for this by increasing the exposure time (e.g. switch to 1/50th) -or- by increasing the ISO (e.g. ISO 200 instead of ISO 100) -or- by opening the lens aperture by 1 full stop (e.g. switch to f/11 instead of f/16).
In moderate overcast you lose 2 stops. Moderate overcast is when things no longer cast a shadow... but it does not yet look so dark that it seems as though it's about to storm.
In heavy overcast you lose 3 stops (when the clouds are getting fairly dark.)
But even in heavy overcast at ISO 100, three stops down from f/16 is f/5.6. If speed the shutter up to 1/200th then you can get down to f/4. If you speed the shutter up to 1/400th then you can get down to f/2.8. (and this is with "heavy" overcast).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Video too Bright!?!?

Copy of dkrauts post in other forum.
I have the K7N420 Pro(MS-6373) and I've tried several different monitors but no matter what I do the brightness is way too high! I've applied the latest drivers and even tried the software controls in Windows Video properties. I have to adjust the brightness to 0 and the contrast to 100 to make the picture tolerable but even then I get a washed out gray instead of pure black. Even when my montor goes into power save mode, I still get a gray screen instead of black. It seems like the video circuitry is overdriving the brightness. Is this a known problem with the integrated video chipset? any fix?
Thanks! Dave

Copy of my last post.
Well, I have got some solutions of sorts.
I found out most of the following by doing some lengthy seaches through this forum, and putting two and two together etc. :O
Some who are more experienced will probably say, yeah I knew that!
Well anyhow, hope this contributes in some way...........
The more obvious Tab in the Display settings which is greyed out and inaccessible is in fact a separate set of settings for a clone Monitor, and this would be active if the clone Monitor was set up (I have faith in this given the other postings about this matter).
The settings you really NEED are much more difficult to find.
You need to do Display Properties > Settings > Advanced Properties > (a few more stages) > nView > Device Settings.......and FINALLY select Colour Correction from a little pop up menu.
Bingo!, there is Brightness, Contrast, Gamma, Vibrance etc.
HOWEVER, I still have a problem.
1. I have used the "secret" nView Tab above to get the Brightness down, and did a Save As a particular filename.
2. If I then use "E-Color" or "Natural Color" which came bundled with the MX420, it causes nView to eject the saved settings (goes back to Hardware default) when I complete my gamma set-up etc.
3. The nView file is also ejected (goes back to Hardware default) each time you reboot.
This is a pain, but putting nViewTweak on the Taskbar makes it quicker to reload your file.
4. I have gotten over this problem in the meantime by NOT using "E-Color" or "Natural Color" but I am fussy, and WANT to do a proper Blackpoint/Gamma/etc set-up. It would appear that the nView software expects you only to use ONE means of setting up, but I want to be able to do a proper Blackpoint/Gamma/etc set-up ON TOP of settings already saved in nView. Please note that the essence of the problem is that without the "help" of nView Brightness reduction, I CANNOT achieve "BLACK" to start with.
QUESTION: How can I get my Color Profile to work IN CONJUNCTION with nView???
If, by definition, creation of a custom Color Profile always resets the nView settings, then this is a serious shortcoming.
I don't want to have to do a workaround that involves tinkering with the Hardware Default levels if I don't have to.

Exporting Issues - Video TOO SMALL when exporting

You can probably tell this, but this is my first time using Premiere after using Final Cut Pro for years. I have edited a fairly long sequence, but when I went to export, it exports all of the sequence into a small window with lots of black around it. Also, if I set the sequence window to "fit," it looks like this. The actual source file from which I pulled all my clips don't have any of these issues. They fit normally and have no black area around them. I have messed around with all the settings I can find. I usually don't resort to posting questions on forums... please help!

Welcome to the forum.
As Harm states, this is due to a mis-match between your source footage, and your Project/Sequence Preset.
What are the full specs. of your source footage? Your Project Preset MUST match that.. If there is not a Preset that does match, you can choose Desktop and then adjust the parameters of it to fit your footage.
When the above is done, you can Export to all sorts of Frame Sizes, and things will be fine, but you need to match that Project to the footage.
That will handle it.
Good luck,
Hunt

Colors are too bright when Indesign CS 5.5 exports .swf

I created a document in Illustrator and transferred the layers over to InDesign CS 5.5 to make an interactive .swf. The colors stayed the same until I exported the .swf from Indesign and the golden yellows became obnoxiously bright. What's even stranger is that I tried to do a screen shot of both to compare, but the color returns to normal in Photoshop and it looks like there's nothing wrong. It seems that only the preview is having issues with the color. Am I missing anything relating to color calibration?

I created a document in Illustrator and transferred the layers over to InDesign CS 5.5 to make an interactive .swf. The colors stayed the same until I exported the .swf from Indesign and the golden yellows became obnoxiously bright. What's even stranger is that I tried to do a screen shot of both to compare, but the color returns to normal in Photoshop and it looks like there's nothing wrong. It seems that only the preview is having issues with the color. Am I missing anything relating to color calibration?

Video too bright! What did I do wrong?

The following was shot using a Canon GL2 inside a theater. The stage lights reflected so much the colors and details became washed out. I can't even fix it in Final Cut Pro. What did I do wrong? The camera was set on "Easy Recording" so I know white balance was automatically set.
Here are some shots
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7buysQTMPg
Each shot is followed by an attempt to correct the image. As you can see, I wasn't successful.

Sorry, I'm a complete beginner to this line of work
It's a good thing you didn't decide to be a doctor or mechanic or ...
You should probably try to work for a local production company before trying to tackle any jobs by yourself. Especially if people are depending on you to deliver an acceptable product. That will give you the opportunity to learn how to shoot properly and learn the ins and outs of a video camera.
As Alchroma said, you white balance manually BEFORE the performance. During the performance you manually control the focus and iris (and panning and zooming).
Spotlight mode isn't infallible. In fact, it may not be able to handle stage lighting very well at all. Learn how to properly operate the camera you've chosen before committing to doing any work of this nature for pay.
-DH

Final rendering of video is low quality and too bright

Here is the link to my original video clip, the video clip in the project, and the final rendered copy all on my monitor at the same time:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/shadon1nja/FixingRenderQuality_zps124306a5.png
Here is the text of each video when fullscreened screened:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/shadon1nja/RenderText_zpsd1240701.png
The picture got downsised which makes it harder to see the issue,but here is most of the it:
The final copy is lower quality and way too bright. Noticibly too bright. The clean darks turn into rough gray, and the quality is noticibly lower as well. I have checked the "use maximum render quality" and tried exportiing in AVI and MP4, and nothing is fixing it. Any ideas?

First of all, what type of file do you need? If you're looking for lossless quality then I would suggest exporting a quicktime file with the Animation codec or some other lossless codec. However, these type of files are huge and they might not play back on your desktop. But, if you're just going to put this video on the internet when you're finished with it then I would suggest starting with one of the Youtube or Vimeo H.264 presets and modifying it to match your clip. It still won't look as good as your original, but you can't expect miracles when working in SD and exporting to H.264, which is a very lossy codec to begin with. If you want to try exporting to a lossless Quicktime or AVI, then change the settings so they look something like this:

When I open Mail the screen flickers random blue and gray appeared on the screen. I took a video too. Will that happen again? Is it hardware problem? This ipad2 32GB was replaced yesterday and I think it is refurbished. Are replace product refurbished?

I got my ipad2 replaced yesterday. And this new ipad started giving me problem by crashing aps. Then I restored the ipad twice but the problem was still there. I called apple and they fixed it by doing Reset All Settings. But now I have this weird problem. When I open Mail the screen flickers random blue and gray appeared on the screen. I took a video too. Will that happen again? Is it hardware problem? This ipad2 32GB was replaced yesterday and I think it is refurbished. Are replace product refurbished?

There is no way for anyone here to know if your replacement iPad is a refurbished unit. Per Apple's replacement policy, replacements can be refurbished units. If you feel the unit is not working correctly, take it back, let them check it out and if found defective, they will replace that unit.

Why would my video clips be running too fast when played on the monitor panel?

I posted my problem earlier today, but re-reading it maybe I didn't explain myself well enough.
My main question is: "why would my video clips be running too fast when played on the monitor panel ?". This is occuring after I have selected my media from the Tasks Panel and placed them in correct order in the Timeline/Sceneline. I knew something was wrong when I could see that the clips were not indicating their right length when viewed in the (expanded) timeline. They were compressed into just a few seconds, whereas the clips should have been at least 5 minutes. I ran the clips in the monitor and sure enough they ran too fast, with a lot of jerking movements.
The 3 video clips I am trying to make into a HD PAL video were taken with my Nokia N8 mobile video camera. These are in mp4 format. Can this present a problem ? Note that when I play these individual HD clips on my computer in (Windows Media Player) they run fine.
After I placed the clips in my Project Panel (or before in the Organize Workspace), I have perforned no change or manipulation of the clips. They are in their original state.
Just too confirm that the clips did seem to be compressed, I burnt a DVD, the resultant video ran in a matter of seconds.
Help would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, that is what the problem was.
Although the video camera on my Nokia N8, mobile was capturing at 25fps,
for some reason once transfered over to PrE9 (via file transfer), the clip was interpreted as 500fps. Once in Interpret Footage I was able to change the fps to 25.
Thanks for the help.

HT5100 How to limit the number of downloaded videos in parallel to one.i want my iPad itunesu to download only one video at once at time and when finished from downloading it to pass to the second queued one.

How to limit the number of downloaded videos in parallel to one.i want my iPad itunesu to download only one video at once at time and when finished from downloading it to pass to the second queued one.

@Tylerdowner: hmm.. maybe yes.. I just want to use the DOWNTHEMALL AddsOn for the saving file not the default download.. because my costumer download MP3 files and save it 3 or more files at a time so my Internet Connection goes down :( so I just want to limit them to save 1 file at a time.
or if there is another way to limit it to 1.. please tell me :(

CL acquisition hangs when image gets too bright?

I'm having a bit of a strange problem and I can't be sure whether it's the camera or the board: basically, in any run mode, when the image gets too bright, the aquisition stops and I get a timeout in MAX.This is with a PCIe-1433 and a Point Grey Gazelle. Capping the camera and restarting the acquistion works fine. This happens any time the majority of the image gets to ~80% brightness.
Making things more confusing, this can sometimes be fixed by switching cables (the same model 5 meter NI cable, but just a different one); now, however, I have a couple of cameras that exhibit this with any cable and so I need to get it figured out. It certainly might be a camera issue or some combination and so I'm contacting PGR as well. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for any info!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Thanks for the replies so far.
* If the brightness is overdriven with EITHER gain OR exposure OR aperture OR by shining a light in the camera, it can happen.
* It seems that choosing different cables or a different camera can change the amount of overdrive required to do this, but it can always be forced.
* If I clip the acquisition window and overdrive outside the window, still happens. If I clip the ROI on-camera and overdrive outside that, does not happen.
* Strangely, in the NI camera file generator, a "Snap" will always succeed, no matter how bright. The "Grab" will fail with a timeout if the image starts too bright.
* Bit of a breakthrough. The gradient test pattern (which contains 16384 of each grey level) works fine no matter what I do with the physical camera. The pseudo-random pattern (Snap attached) causes this failure.
* In 2-tap mode (which is a no go for frame rate, but I checked for troubleshooting) I can see the pseudorandom pattern with no problems, but overdrive still causes the initial issue.
Unless there's something really weird happening, this makes me think that the problem, such as it is, lies with the board. Something to do with how it is detecting blanking, or the end of the frame, is being fooled by the pattern?
Thanks so much for the test pattern tip, BlueCheese, I still down have a fix but I know where to direct my attention now.
Attachments:
psuedo.png ‏281 KB

Message "video too long to send" when trying to move a video off my IPAD.

I have IPAD IOS 7 but am unable to move a video, almost 2 minutes in length off the IPAD in either email or direct connection to my laptop...message I get is "video too long to send"...I am just trying to get this video off my IPAD and into permanent storage.
I bought app VideoEmail tried to move video quality setting to "low" but it still only sends part of the video.

Shut down the app...
- From any Home Screen, double tap the home button to bring up the Recents List
- Tap and hold any icon until they wiggle
- Press the red to delete the offending app from this list.
- Press the home button twice when done.
- Restart the app

HT1349 why are my pictures and videos from 4s iphone when downloaded sideways and the videos too? Please help with feedback

Ok who has been having problems everytime you want to download your videos and pictures they download sideways and videos too, please help

The photos and videos are not imported that way. The problem lies with whatever photo/video viewing software you are using with Windoze which is ignoring or not recognizing the photo/video orientation info which is included with the photo/video EXIF data by the iPhone.
I've never had this problem but I use a Mac which doesn't ignore photo/video orientation info included with photo/video EXIF data.

Nikon D300s images too bright and interlaced.

So this is my first time shooting and editing video and I'm getting some weird errors.
I'm running Windows 7, and when I view the video files after downloading them from the card, the whites all seem too bright and blown out, no matter which media player I use. When I import the videos into Premiere CS5, the whites are not so blown out and there's detail.
BUT when I'm done editing and save the file as a HD H.264 720p 24fps file, the whites are again blown out AND there's obvious interlacing.
How do I get my whites to not be blown out, and how do I get the output to be deinterlaced?

You've told others on this forum to use professional monitors.
Not everyone has access to a professional monitor. I will never have access to a professional monitor. Not everyone is a video professional and not everyone cares to be one. I just want a video that looks good on YouTube. A professional monitor is not an option.
All I know is that on the same monitor, when playing the originals and the final exported file the whites look noticably more blown out than they do when previewed within Premiere.
The D300s only shoots in progressive, but when I export from Premiere (making sure Progressive is selected) the video looks interlaced.

Monitor too bright

Hi,
I'm re-purposing a quad core 2.8Ghz Mac Pro with Mac OS 10.6.8.
I'm having a problem in that the monitor/screen image is too bright, even with the monitor controls set to minimum.
When I use the monito calibrator in System Prefs, the black/grey/white oval graphic is very very very light and washed out and there's no way I can adjust the monitor to get the black bit black.
This monitors (2 of them) worked perfectly on the G5 it came from, black was black white was paper-white and it worked well for photo editing - printed results were a good match with the image on the monitors. However when I plug them into this MacPro they're virtually unusable.
Window borders, furniture (buttons, tabs etc) and the desktop (Mac OS bits???) seem fine - it's just the inner part of windows (the bit controlled by the application rather than the Mac OS???) that is too biright and wahsed out.
It's as if the graphics card is misbehaving. Is there a way to "reset" the graphics card?
Note; I'm not sure if this actually has anything to do with it - I noticed this happening when I installed Illustrator CS2 (yes, I know, its old) and the installed asked permission to install Rosetta. It may be coicidence that I just noticed it at this stage or it may be the cause. How do I temorarily remove or disable Rosetta?
Both monitors can't suddently have become faulty, so I'm doscounting an issue with the monitors.
Mac OS 10.6.8, Quad 2.8 GHz Mac Pro
Monitors are connected with digital cables direct to the digi ports (no VGA converters)
Many thanks,
G.

Many thanks to both responders. Various points for both:
The graphics card is ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT.
The OS is a fresh install on a newly reformatted main drive. The old OS is on the secon'd drive but has been moved into a separate folder called "Old System".
Apps are all new/clean installs from original disks, then updates applied.
It seems implausible that the drive partitioning system is affecting the video output, is this likely to be the problem?
I know CS2 is old, but I don't have a choice and CS2 was running OK on the PPC Mac and these 2 monitors.
The problem is always present whether I have CS components running or not. Quark 8 is too bright, as is Preview and all other apps.
Does the graphics card have a non-volatile memory for settings? What if it has previously been config'd badly; can it be reset?
Can I uninstall Rosetta to see if this is the issue?
Thnaks again, both.
G.

Qiucktime video too bright when finished!

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for