Quest to lower dv5-1000 series temps

temps were taken from core temp software
original idle temp 106 F
original load temp 130-140 F
using stock 492314-001 heat sink on intel dv5-1132us
using copper shim and thermal grease with original heat sink
idle temp 103 F
load temp 130-140 F
using dv6 heat sink 512830-001 plus shims and thermal grease
idle temp 89-91 F
load temp 115-128 F (the 128 was maxing out both cores converting video for an hour)
notes the dv6 heat sink looks like cheap garbage next to the dv5 heat sink. The casting is rough, and so is the heat tube. the fan has fewer fins on it, but the fins are wider.
however.. if you take the fan out of the heat sink casing, the casing has an extra layer of cooling fins on the dv6 model.
i havnt tried it yet, but i suppect the dv5 fan itself may be slightly more effient when the laptop is not on a hard surface, just because the fins on the fan are raised from the bottom of the casing.
i ended up using an almost paper thin shim above the cpu, just because the copper pad on the heat sink was pretty rough compared to the dv5 one. I also used a thicker shim above the gpu to make up for my cpu shim and to have the heat sink actually touch the gpu.
the dv6 fan is slightly louder, could be also be because i used a old fan, not a new one.. I expect it will be much more difficult to blow out the heat sink on the dv6 version with a can of air, sence it has more fins inside the case. I actually cleaned it in the sink before i put it in, (very full of dust and crud).
my quest continues...

i have also noticed the broadcom wifi card in the dv5-1132us was getting very hot, and being placed under the hard drive, was making the hard drive over heat.
I replaced the broadcom unit with an intel 5100. hard drive temps are back to normal.

Similar Messages

Adding tv tuner to dv5 1000 series

what you need to add the internal tv tuner to a dv5. I used a dv5-1132us
1. ability to completly dissasemble the unit.
2. DC370000V00 antenna cable (listed for a dv7 on ebay)
3. an avermedia tuner card i used an A317. at least in the united states make sure you get an atsc card not just analog
4. external adapter to connect to coax 407342-002
dissasemble unit. remove plug for antenna connector from right side of case.
install internal connector cable
reassemble unit
install tv tuner card
install driver. i installed an incorrect driver then used windows update to get the right one.
connect tuner to ether cable, or antenna
use media center or hp media smart live tv
i could not get hp's remote to work with media center. but it did work on media smart

kewl, but does your tv turner card detect in the bios setup, mine only detects in the device manager, like hp atsc, or unknown device to errors but windows 7 says unknown device can't find any drivers,???

Remote update of a 1000 series LWAP

My company recently went from an old airspace 4024 with firmware 3-2-195-13 to a new 4402-50 running 4-1-185-0. Using Option 43 in DHCP allowed the new 4402 to see the AP's on different VLan's and Subnet's and issue IP addresses to the AP's and clients. It appears several of the AP's have not pulled down the new firmware and are stuck at 3.2. I have rebooted the AP's and tried multiple other tricks. Is there a Cisco utility that will allow me to update these LWAP's via mac or IP? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm sure I could go around, collect these AP's bring them back to the 4402's location throw it in layer 2, reboot and they would take the update but that is too time consuming of a process.

I know from experience that the 1131 and 1230 APs can't be upgraded from 3.2 to 4.1 because a 440x controller can't be upgraded from 3.2 to 4.1.
Check the release notes on the 4-1-185 software.
They state:
"Important Note: If you are running any lower version than 4.0.206.0 in 4.0 stream or if you are running lower version than 3.2.195.10 image in 3.0 stream , please upgrade the controller to 4.0.206.0 or higher for 4.0 stream and 3.2.195.10 or higher for 3.0 stream before loading 4.1.171.0 image."
They are suggesting that if you want your APs to upgrade from their current 3.2 software you must upgrade them to 4.0.x software first. Then you can upgrade to 4-1-185.
I would downgrade the controller software and see if the 1000 series APs will run the lower version. Then I would upgrade the controller to the latest software and verify that these APs are running 4-1-185 software.
Hope this helps.

Printer driver for an HP LaserJet 1000 series for use with Windows 7

The CD ROM HP LaserJet 1000 series printer driver is not recognized by my new Windows 7 PC. So the printer does not work. I've looked on the HP web site for compatible drives and get the hint that a Vista driver would work. Can someone please confirm if this possible and how this is accomplished? Thanks.

Where did you find a hint that Vista drivers would work? This page says:
Your LaserJet model is not supported in Windows 7.
For more information regarding upgrade programs and new product information, please visit the HP Trade-In/Trade Up website at www.hp.com/united-states/tradein/home_flash.html or directly from HP at www.hp.com .
Additionally, this page says the Laserjet 1000 is not supported in Vista.
If you are using the 32 bit version of Windows 7 it may be possible to download the XP drivers here and install them.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
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I need hp laserjet 1000 series driver for win 8 64 bit

i need hp laserjet 1000 series driver for win 8 64 bit
[Personal Information Removed]

Hi,
The printer is not supported on Windows 8 or Windows 8.1, a drevice is not available for the OS:
http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docLocale=en_US&docId=emr_na-c03450061
Regards,
Shlomi
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos thumb up in the post.
If my post resolve your problem please mark it as an Accepted Solution

IOTECH DAQ PCI5501 1000 Series - ADC

I'm a student and new to Labview and DAQ cards, so this should be easy for most of you reading this...
I have an IOTECH 1000 series DAQ card. I am able to input a sine wave into one channel and get results of the A/D conversion; however, I cannot get more than one channel to work...
I have configured the channels I want and am getting data, but it isn't valid data. I have also configured for single-ended and am getting errors (invalid configuration error #5601).
Specifically, when I am configured for one input 0(1) and differential, I get what seems to be valid data (sine wave from signal generator on CH0 and SGND). When I configure for two channels 0(1),1(1) I get crap...moreoever, the second column of the array is nothing but ones and zeros, which led me to believe the DAQ is set for differential by default. So, I configured it for single-ended and I get the same data, but I also get an error for the single-ended configuration (invalid configuration error# 5601). Also, when I tie the same input to CH0 and CH1, I get ones and zeros in both columns of the array.
The documentation for IOTECH seems to be ok for initial setup, but they don't give any examples. They say that it's compatible with Labview and provide a pdf file for using the DAQ with Labview, but it's nothing more than basic setup/config info for the VI's. I've searched and searched and can't find a clear answer or any information that seems to help. I also ran across a comment about a HI and LO side for the analog inputs...but they say it has 16 single-ended inputs...and I have 16 analog inputs on my card...nothing about a HI and LO. Anyway...
I hope this was clear. If not, feel free to ask for clarification and additional information. I'm sure anyone who has used this DAQ card and Labview can answer this question. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
D.Norwood

Howdy norwood,
Unfortunately, I'm unfamiliar with IOTech DAQ devices, so I can't offer any personal experience to guide you in that regard. However, you might want to contact IOtech through their technical support page here for additional help with their LabVIEW driver package and hardware configuration. They would be best suited to answer your questions.
Sorry again that I could not be of more help!
Warm regards,
pBerg

Recmd for low cost, multi point temp logging

Can someone recommend the best, low cost way to monitor temp at 16
pts. We are doing qualifiation tests of an oven used in an bio tech
research application. But we are a startup and I need to stretch my
capital budget as much as possible. Here are the details:
1. type k theromocouople
2. 40-150F temp range
3. 16 tc input channels
4. scan rate = 1 reading / minute
5. log period = 60 hrs
I used National Instruments Field Point modules about 2 yrs ago for
this since they were the cheapest approach I found for the signal
condtioning since a 8 channels of type K tc inputs, the TC120 module,
cost $350.
Is there a better approach I should look at? I do not have to work
with LV or NI hw if there is a better approach.
Thanks in adv
ance for your advice,
Doug Danielson
[email protected]
Atlanta, GA
recmd for low cost, multi point temp logging

On 18 Jul 2003 14:59:07 -0700, [email protected] (William
Danielson) wrote:
>Can someone recommend the best, low cost way to monitor temp at 16
>pts. We are doing qualifiation tests of an oven used in an bio tech
>research application. But we are a startup and I need to stretch my
>capital budget as much as possible. Here are the details:
>
>1. type k theromocouople
>2. 40-150F temp range
>3. 16 tc input channels
>4. scan rate = 1 reading / minute
>5. log period = 60 hrs
>
>I used National Instruments Field Point modules about 2 yrs ago for
>this since they were the cheapest approach I found for the signal
>condtioning since a 8 channels of type K tc inputs, the TC120 module,
>cost $350.
>
>Is there a better approach I should look at? I do not have to
work
>with LV or NI hw if there is a better approach.
>
>Thanks in advance for your advice,
>
>Doug Danielson
>
>[email protected]
>Atlanta, GA
>
>
>recmd for low cost, multi point temp logging
I don't remember where I got them from but I had a similar project a
few years ago and found that thermistors are a lot cheaper (and
slightly less accurate) than thermocouples. get an AtoD card for a pc
and you are pretty much in buisness. You'll need some resistors too
for voltage dividers. You need to watch what voltage you put across
them so you don't get significant internal heating. The suppliers
have the schematics and other usefull info. Thermistors don't give
you a linear reaction, so you need to use a table, graph, or an
emperical equation get actual temps. You will also want to calibrate
all of them as there will be some variance between sensors (even if
they were perfect the resistors you use along with them will vary)
rather than try to get them all dead nuts on with li
ttle trimpots just
figure a fudge factor for each sensor for when you calculate back the
actual temps. I'd try them all in ice water and boiling water, just
seal them in plastidip or something.before immersing them.
David

Is Hard Drive Cable of m6-1105dx Same with m6-1000 series?

Hi my laptop is m6-1105dx, and the hard drive cable does not work now. I tried to find it online but I could hardly find anything. As I heard, it seems the m6-1000 series are using the same cable. Is that true?
Thank you.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

ExExE wrote:
Hi my laptop is m6-1105dx, and the hard drive cable does not work now. I tried to find it online but I could hardly find anything. As I heard, it seems the m6-1000 series are using the same cable. Is that true?
Thank you.
Hi there,
Here are the spare part numbers of both:
m6-1000 entertainment notebook
Hard Drive Hardware Kit (includes hard drive bracket, hard drive connector cable, and screws)
686907-001
Envy m6-1105dx notebook
Hard Drive Hardware Kit (includes hard drive bracket, hard drive connector cable, and screws)
686907-001
So, essentially both are the SAME.
Here are some online sellers selling it: amazon , ebay
Hope your concern is resolved.
thanks,
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DV5-1000 touchpad buttons, premature wear

After about a year of using my DV5-1000, the silver coated left touchpad button began to wear through to the black plastic underneath. Also, the button became noticeably loose, especially when compared to the right touchpad button. It eventually got to the point where the button would click unreliably.
I managed to buy a replacement palmrest part for the DV5, which contains the touchpad assembly (you cannot buy the assembly separately). Unfortunately, the palmrest is an integral part of the laptop, requiring 75% of it to be disassembled to remove the original part. I downloaded a service manual and went to work... and I got it done after 2 long hours. The new part fit properly and the laptop appeared as new.
A year later, I'm faced with the same problem yet again! I am not abusive to the touchpad buttons. This kind of wear should not be happening. I dread having to take apart the laptop again... but I am worried that the button will start developing click problems as the previous one did. I wonder if some kind of protective coating added to the button would help it. Anybody else here suffer premature wear to the left touchpad button?
"If you keep an open mind, life will give you more possibilities."

I had a look at some of the newer DV5 models and... I'm rather taken aback with how HP solved the touchpad button problem. They no longer have tactile keys. Instead, there's a soft touch membrane. This makes it very difficult to control sustained pressing of the button, as the travel from on to off is so short. It was a real cop-out in my mind, that HP didn't stick with tactile buttons. Sure, there were some problems with how they were intially implemented, but c'mon--so many other laptop makers have tactile buttons that don't wear out. Why couldn't HP have gone that route of just improving the button?
Also, what's with all of the wacky patterns that HP is now slathering over their laptop casings? It makes the laptop look a lot less professional. If they want to appeal to kids, make it so that there's an optional shell you can get with the laptop with whatever zany pattern you wish. Or instead, just opt for something conservative and wear resistant.
"If you keep an open mind, life will give you more possibilities."

Hp laserjet 1000 series for windows 7

friend, I had a question for you, I have an HP LaserJet 1000 printer series but now I get a new computer with Windows 7, but do I not found hp 1000 printer drivers, pls send me the link or drivers ready

Yes - you can use the Laserjet 1000 with Windows 7. (I have two Windows 7 PCs printing to my LJ 1000).
Case 1 - (Easiest case) If your Windows 7 installation is 32-bit (How to check this)
Solution: Provided by user jriv9 in this discussion
use HP LJ1000 XP HostBased Driver
Just installed it and it works perfectly.
1. exe extracts to a directory of your choice.
2. right click on printer -> properties -> update driver
3. select to search in a specific location and select dir from step one.
Case 2 - If your Windows 7 is 64-bit and you have another PC on your network running Windows 32-bit (XP, Vista or 7)
Solution provided by user Los15 on this forum page. I have tried this and it works. I had to make one change - the port name had to be \\Computer Name\hp Laserjet 1000 DOS
Case 3 - If your Windows 7 is 64-bit and you have no other PC.
You can install the XP driver in XP Mode, and then install the XP driver as for a 32-bit machine.
Solution given by user erpp on this forum page.
Alternative
On same forum page as the XP Mode solution, another solution is given, using another piece of software called PDF Creator.
I'd just like to add my thanks to everyone who has contributed those solutions above. The LJ 1000 is a marvellous workhorse of a printer - the engineers who built it did a good job. It's too bad HP didn't follow their lead and produce 64-bit drivers.

Deskjet 710/720/810/820/1000 Series printers - Patch for 64 bit Vista and Windows 7

There is an issue with the 64 bit Vista, Windows 7 and Windows 8 or 8.1 drivers that causes the spooler to crash with the following HP Deskjet printers:
Deskjet 710
Deskjet 712
Deskjet 720
Deskjet 722
Deskjet 810
Deskjet 812
Deskjet 820
Deskjet 822
Deskjet 1000
The attached file contains a patch for this issue for Vista and Windows 7.
[The patch does not currently work for Windows 8 or 8.1 x64 systems. There are some efforts to address this, if a solution is developed it will be posted here. {Edit - I have not made any progress in getting the patch to work in Windows 8 x64.}]
First make sure the driver for the printer is installed. If the driver has not been installed go to Start, Devices and Printers, Add a Printer, Local Printer, choose the proper port (for USB-Parallel converters the port will likely be USB001: or perhaps USB002: ), Next, click Windows Update then choose HP for the manufacturer and select the appropriate printer.
Apply the patch as follows: Log into the computer with an administrative account. Download the patch by clicking on this link or on the paper clip at the end of this post. Save the patch file to your computer, then unzip it. Next copy the three DLL files to the following directory: %windir%\system32\spool\drivers\x64\3
Note that %windir% is a system variable that points to the location of the Windows directory. For most systems this will be C:\Windows. You can click Start, Computer and type %windir%\system32\spool\drivers\x64\3 in the address bar and it will find the right place.
This can be done from a DOS prompt if DOS is opened with the "run as administrator" command, or from explorer with a copy and paste. Depending on your UAC settings you may need to provide confirmation. Also allow the current files to be overwritten if prompted.
This patch is not required and should not applied to a 32 bit version of Vista or Windows 7.
Thanks to extraordinary Microsoft engineer Alan Morris for guidance for the patch.
Update - the following are more detailed installation instructions:
Download the patch from here. Now click on the file and open it, then extract the patch to some directory that is easy to find. (I use c:\temp. If this directory does not exist you can create it as follows: open the administrative DOS prompt by clicking on Start, All Programs, Accessories, then right click on CMD.EXE and select Run as Administrator. Click in the DOS box then type the following:
MD c:\temp
CD \temp
Now extract the patch files into the c:\temp directory (extract all, chose c:\temp as the destination).
[Update - Windows security settings may prevent these files from being used, please open Computer, type c:\temp in the address bar and then right click on each of the dll files and select Properties. If there is a message in Properties indicating the file was downloaded from the internet and may be blocked then unblock the file before proceeding.]
Next click back in the administrative DOS prompt and type the following: (stuff in green is comments, do not type them...)
DIR *.dll (this is just to verify the files are there, it should list hpvdb720.dll, hpvdb820.dll and hpwm5db1.dll and perhaps others.)
Net stop spooler (makes sure the files are not in use.)
Copy hpvdb720.dll C:\windows\system32\spool\drivers\x64\3 (this is for the Deskjet 710/712/720/722)
Copy hpvdb820.dll c:\windows\system32\spool\drivers\x64\3 (this covers the Deskjet 820 and 822)
Copy hpwm5db1.dll c:\windows\system32\spool\drivers\x64\3(this covers the Deskjet 1000)
Net Start Spooler
Exit
[Edit - note that these DLL files will already be in the directory. You will get a warning asking if it is OK to overwrite the files, say "yes".]
At this point the patch is installed and ready to print.
Note that the printers here do not support USB connections, they have only parallel ports. [Edit - if your printer does have a parallel port use it, this will likely be much less problematic than using a USB-Parallel converter.] If you use a USB-parallel converter make sure it is supported in your operating system. The following posts are flagged with USB-parallel cables that are reported to work in Windows 7.   A driver is required for the USB-parallel converter in addition to the driver for the printer. For supported converters this is typically supplied automatically in Windows 7. Note: the proper port to select for the USB-Parallel converters is often USB001:. I have heard of some cases where the port was USB002: or LPT3: as well. If the port you are using does not succeed (after applying the patch) try changing the port by going to Start, Devices and Printers, right click on your printer and select Printer Properties, then click on the Ports tab.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V
This question was solved.
View Solution.
Attachments:
DJ_Patch.zip ‏34 KB

Just want to send a thanks. Purchased a new HP computer with 64 bit Windows 7 and haven't been able to get my 722c to work. This patch worked like a charm!

"Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work. I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it. I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I). I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area. It's already optimal.
2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins. There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason. Aluminum is no good. Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect. First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me. Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it. The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in. Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out. Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case. Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan. It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?). It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle. The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case. This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved. I'll let you know how this turns out.
I may also try the following:
1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that
I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that. But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
/Wezz

7600 or ASR 1000 Series as ISP EDGE WAN

Hi experts,
I want your opinion on something.
We currently have 6 STM1 and will soon have an additional 2x STM4.
The existing STM's are connected on a 7600.
We are planning to do a major upgrade in order to cater for the additional STM4 and will be grateful if i can have your views on the matter.
Right now we cannot accept full BGP table from our upstream provider due to the low mem on the 7600.
So we are thinking on either going towards two 7600 with SUP3cXL which will be able to cater for the full BGP table + we need to buy additional line cards. Or we go towards the ASR1000 series, which i think might be an overkill, but am definitely thinking of future growth.
Thanks to advise.
Regards,
Steve

Thanks vmiller.
We don't need any additional cards apart for the POS ports and 3X10G interfaces.
Plus we need something that will be able to cater for the whole BGP table.
I was task to build a business case on the matter. But it will be a bit difficult to convince the business on the go about of the ASR (if you know what i mean). So my business case needs to be solid.
Anyway thanks for your help.
Regards,
Steve

I'm trying to install an HP LaserJet 1000 series printer so all systems on my network can access it.

Topography: All systems are Windows XP. Wireless network. Printer is physically attached to one of the XP systems, and printing from that system works as expected. Trying to add this printer via the "Add Printer" fails.
In "Add Printer", selecting "A Network Printer, or a printer attached to another computer"; press "Next"
On "Next" panel, selected "Browse for a printer", press "next"
On "Next panel", this printer I am looking for "\\host\printername" appears (along with other printers attached to other hosts"; press "Next"
On "Next panel", get popup "You are about to connect to a printer on host, which will automatically installa print driver on your machine. Printer drivers may contain viruses or scripts that can be harmful to your computer. It is important to be certain that the computer sharing this printer is trustworthy. Would you like to continue?"
Select "yes". Get a popup "The server for the "hp Laser Jet 1000" printer does not have the correct printer driver installed. If you want to search for the proper driver, click OK. Otherwise, click Cancel and contact your network administrator (that's me) or original equipment manufacturer for the correct printer driver."
Select "OK". Get a popup box titled "File needed: printer driver INF for hp LaserJet 1000" Box has input for typing the path where the file is located."
And ... I'm stuck. :-( I have no idea what it's looking for, or where it should be found.
The printer itself was a hand-me-down, so it's not like there's any real $$ involved in this; and I could always instll the printer directly on the system that will be using it most, but I'd really like to have it on my network. Did not receive any original CDs or publications. The installation file that I used, which I presume installed the driver was down loaded from this site, filename "lj1000hostbased-en-exe"
Any good advice on how to get this printer (it's a VERY nice printer, by the way ... prints wonderfully from the host it's actually attached to) onto my network for remote printing?
Thanks, in advance!
Update w/ additional possibly useful information: The HP Print and Scan Doctor does NOT see this printer at all. however the add printer dialog does. I don't know if that's useful or not, but it is what it is.
Thanks in advance again!
Phil

Hi,
How do you connect the printer to the XP machine ? If USB, you need to make that machine as a Print server. Please try this:
http://techtips.salon.com/make-windows-computer-print-server-11914.html
Regards.
BH
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8.1 Not Connecting to HP laserjet 1000 series printer

The headline says it all. I upgraded with new software to the 8.1 and now can not connect to my favorite printer, an HP laserjet 1000. I need some really specific, step-by-step help and direction about how to fix this issue. I can find
my away pretty well on a computer but I'm not the most tech savvy with lingo.
I'm not really certain how to get an answer once I submit this question??
Thanks
Scott

SH
You may be able to use an earlier driver by installing it in compatibility mode
To install in compatibility mode do the following:
Right click the installer>properties>compatibility>choose OS
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/Make-older-programs-run-in-this-version-of-Windows?SignedIn=1
(works in vista, win 7, win 8, and win 10)
Wanikiya and Dyami--Team Zigzag

Quest to lower dv5-1000 series temps

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