Question about monitor calibration

I'm hoping someone can tell me what role the monitor factory settings play on monitor calibration. My Spyder 3 Elite calibration device tells me (before I start calibration) that I should reset the factory settings on my monitor. On my old monitor I didn't know what the factory settings were and couldn't find a way to reset them. My new monitor just arrived today with a brightness setting of over 90 (on a scale from 0-100, and the contrast setting was around 80. The first thing I did when I turned the monitor on was to change that because the display was so bright I could hardly read the forum on it. I can't imagine that those are the "factory settings" that I am supposed to use! Thanks!

This is actually a VERY good question, because the initial settings will affect, to some extent, how you'll see all things that are not color-managed.
Things get even more complicated if you're going to maintain two monitors and would like them to more or less match.
What I'd do is spend some time, before firing up the profiling device, to try to set the on-monitor settings so that you have a comfortable brightness level and get the response as close as possible to gamma 2.2. Then the video card curve cablibration process won't have as much to change.
There's a chart I like to use to see if the gamma is close to 2.2:
First, make sure any remnants of a monitor profile from your old monitor are removed, and that you're back to defaults (e.g., sRGB IEC61966-2.1).
Make sure and view the above chart at 100% full size, and using your on-monitor controls try to get the gray bars in the left column to seem as one smooth gradient, the same brightness from side to side. Also, you should barely be able to see dark gray on black squares in the top-right black bar on white background.
Depending on your monitor gamut, you may not be able to get all the color out of the center column, but get it as close as possible. Then you'll leave the calibration/profiling process a good starting point, and you shouldn't be hugely disappointed in what you see from your non-color-managed applications.
-Noel

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A question about monitor settings and printing?

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There are no free calibration tools. Like most things you get what you pay for. However, the low end versions are quite good, so take a look at the Xrite Huey.
This will get your display calibrated which ensures you see the best rendering of the image on screen. It does not guarantee good print matching since this also requires a print colour managed process and good viewing conditions.
Colour settings in Elements are mis-leading. They apply to new documents being created in Elements or to images being opened that don't contain a colour profile. Virtually all JPEG images from cameras will have a profile tagged in them. So choose any setting but not the one that says 'No Colour Management'. The best default in my opinion is 'Optimise for Screen'
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Im trying to find a good monitor to use at home for Graphic Design, Web Design and 3D animation.
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A search for "best large monitors" turn up a Hans G that you mentioned
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When I use WCS and go the 'Clients' tab on the Home page and then click 'Associated Clients' it shows me a whole list of usernames/MAC adresses/ip addresses/ etc.
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thanks
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Hi I read your post. I see the "mobile" status of clients on my network when they are being forwarded from another wireless controller via a mobility group. I use this feature for our guest network. Do you have any of your WLC's in the same mobility group or any kind of guest network?

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I'm curious how people deal with the automatic screen dimming that late 2007 and up MBP do to compensate for ambient light conditions. Do you turn that off while working with photos? The dimming must effect screen colors.
Also, should I re-calibrate my screen often for different ambient light conditions? My MBP is in the kitchen with many windows, so light conditions vary throughout the day. I know that optimal conditions for a digital "darkroom" are a dark room with consistent light conditions.
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Well, it is worth calibrating the screen, but a laptop is always going to be a compromise. There are degrees of calibrated workflow, from nothing at all, to compromise, to perfection. Very few people attain perfection, and really you only need this where absolute colour accuracy is required (fashion, product, etc, usually). In most cases, calibration is more about getting a consistent and predictable behaviour from your system, and not getting too stressed about it all. Unless you're going to work in a grey painted cell with regulated illumination and a locked down monitor, then I don't think there's a lot of point bothering with ambient light. As far as the MBP's reaction to light is concerned, certainly you should turn this off when calibrating, and probably when working as well, although I rarely bother. My eyes adapt too

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Thanks so much for responding! One question about your post. When you say that the Mac Mini cannot boot in OS 9, does that mean that if I wanted it to hold Filemaker Pro 4 files (which runs on OS 9), that it cannot do this? We would not be running Filemaker on the Mini, just storing the files. We would run Filemaker off of our desktop computers. Sorry, I don't know a ton about computers, so sometimes I need clarification about the terms that people use.-Rob

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I have a question about step 5, +Turn off the computer or allow it to sleep for five hours or more+. First off, does it mean let the battery completely run out and turn off the computer, or are we supposed to turn it off. Second, what is the purpose of letting it wait 5 hours before turning it back on? Thanks

Tucker77 wrote:
I have a query regarding this, my Macbook went to sleep after draining the power last night (following its first full charge). I plugged it in to recharge at 5:30 this morning and over four hours later, it still hasn't charged, or at least the light is still orange.
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Hi,
I have some very basic questions about using a Macbook Pro + external display. I don't actually have them but need to know how things works.
So, here they are:
1) Can I use the external display as the main display?
2) Will the external display run with its resolution or with that of the mbook pro?
3) Somewhere I read that you cannot keep the macbook pro open and get the full resolution of the external display. Is that true ?
4) Is it dangerous to keep the mbook closed while using the external display?
5) Does the usage of the external display impact on mbook performance?
I know...a lot of questions , but would be nice if someone could help me.
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Hi - I am presently using an external display.
To answer your questions in sequence:
1. Yes you can use the external display as your main display. The way to enable that mode is to put your MacBook Pro to sleep, attach the external display. Wake up your MBPro with the lid closed and you will see the external display as you main display. You can alternatively set the external to "Mirror" your notebook by using preferences/display.
2. The external display will run at its resolution although you can adjust and calibrate it using Preferences/Display.
3. Not true. You get max resolution on both displays. Of course you may have to tweak as mentioned above.
4. Not at all. I use this mode all the time. Just make sure you initially set up as mentioned above and your LCD on the MBPro will stay off.
5. I have not seen any performance degradation whatsoever.
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Hi, I sarted a new job and they have an Apple 23" cinema HD monitor and a 12" Sony Triniton PVM-14N5U NTSC monitor. The computer screen looks fine but everything in the NTSC monitor looks aweful green.
Is there any kind of service for monitor calibration that you guys are aware of? like a company which will send professionals to our office to calibrate all the computer displays and all the NTSC monitors?
or should i buy one of those mousy calibrating thing. Is it possible to calibrate the sony NTSC monitors?
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Well... VERY early on in the fcp manual is a whole section on how to calibrate ntsc monitors.
No charge.

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I believe this is some kind of color space or EXIF data issue I'm having. The jist of it is this: if I view one of my pictures (they're in jpg format) in Windows Explorer, they look fine. But when Lightroom opens the picture or displays it in the library, it looks too dark. (Important note: this is not a monitor calibration issue. Searching on Google reveals tons of advice along these lines, but that's not what's happening here. Lightroom is simply displaying things differently than anything else.)
Photoshop had this problem also, but Adobe supplied a patch that made Photoshop ignore the color space EXIF data so my pictures would display "correctly". There does not seem to be any such equivalent fix for Lightroom. I'm using Windows XP - perhaps there's something I can do in the OS to fix this issue? I believe most of my pictures are sRGB.
How do I get Lightroom to display my pictures correctly? They are, of course, impossible to edit while they display like this. Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks for the responses. I freely admit I don't understand color management. I also admit I have not calibrated my monitor. I know, therefore, that my colors are not perfectly synchronized across all my devices - and I'm fine with that for the moment, because they are close enough. What comes out of my camera, what is displayed on my monitor, and what comes out of my printer are all pretty close. I will calibrate soon and get even closer, but for now perfect color isn't my chief concern.
My problem is not that the colors don't match, it's that the pictures are too dark when displayed in Lightroom. By "too dark", I mean several stops of exposure too dark. A picture will display a certain way on my camera and in Windows, and the histogram reflects this. Then I load it into Lightroom, and while the histogram looks the same of course, the picture itself is being displayed like I took it at night. Hence, as far as I can tell, it's not a monitor calibration issue. If I were to calibrate the monitor to display the pictures in Lightroom correctly, everything else would look too bright, wouldn't it? Including Lightroom itself. Besides, it wouldn't be possible to brighten my monitor to the point that the pictures looked acceptable - that's how dark they are.
Here's another clue: if I'm at work, and I RDP to my PC at home, and open Lightroom in the RDP session, everything looks great. So, I'm thinking it's a Windows color space issue of some kind. The question is, since I admit I don't know much about color space, what might be the problem and how might I fix it?
So to summarize: incorrect color calibration isn't my problem (though I know it's something I have to do if I ever want to perfectly match output on my monitor and printer). The colors across all my devices are close enough for my purposes. Incorrect color isn't my problem at all. The problem is that Lightroom on my PC displays pictures as if most of the histogram was on the left, even when that's not the case. The pictures in Lightroom look nothing like they look on my camera, in Windows Explorer, or when printed on my printer. Why is that, and what can I do to fix it? Thanks.

Monitor calibrating etc.

Hello,
If I calibrate my monitor with different makes of monitor calibration instruments
e.g. Color Vision... and Monaco Optic... will the result be in theory identical or
do these different makes have somewhat different interpretation of hue, contrast
and so on?
Then about color profiles. Let's say that I send a photo with embedded profile
ProPhotoRGB to a friend. I assume that he in order to see correct colors must
use the same profile (ProPhoto...).
Will the colors be OK if his system uses e.g. AdobeRGB as working space and
he preserves the embedded ProPhoto... profile?
One last confused question, a red color of 255,0,0 will produce different hue depending
on the color profile in use - right or wrong?
Thank You for your patience,
Martti

Sisyphos,
Thank you very much indeed, very comprehensive.
/Martti

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Hello
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With either the Kona or the Io, you then can output to uncompressed HD tape... that's what they do for you no matter what codec you've edited in. ProRes is designed to be the codec of choice for all HD projects when you're shooting different formats especially... Get them all singing the same tune in your editing stations, and you'll be a much happier camper. Only reason to buy laptops is portability... otherwise you're much better off with towers and the Kona 3 speed wise.
Jerry
Message was edited by: Jerry Hofmann

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#1 Are there any good, comprehensive guides to show you how to do this?
#2 Can the movies be accessed when not at home on the shared network?
#3 Can the iPads or the macbook pro download the shared movies to be stored locally?
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seanfenton wrote:
1. I want to replace the Optical drive with a 2TB SATA. can I use this 2.5 inch?
I do not know if it is the same model number, but this one will work in your MBP:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/SEAGATE%20OWC/ST2000LM003M/
2. I want to replace the HD with a 128GB SSD 840. When I replace these drives, will my OS still be in tact? I have never done this job before.
No. You will have to format the drives in Disk Utility>Erase to Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and then install the OSX by using the original install disks.
3.) I want to replace the ram sticks to max capacity. This is 2 2GB sticks, Correct?
No. An early 17" 2008 MBP will accept 6GB RAM with the following specifications: 200-pin PC2-5300 (667MHz) DDR2 SO-DIMM. The best sources of Mac compatible RAM are OWC and Crucial.
4.) Most difficult...
I want to extend the monitor wirelessly to a projector. I thought about using Apple TV and Airplay. However, support for airplay is for MacBooks 2011 and newer. I thought of using a PS3 and the media server, but I think this brings on a format compatibility issue. (my library is so large I could not afford to convert all my movies to MP4.) So, how would you recommend I put my extended monitor with VLC player onto a projector?
Could I possibly connect the MBP to a Mac Mini as an extension? would this work natively? I would rather use a VGA cord than F with 3rd party app BS.
Cannot help you there.
5..) I want to Bypass iTunes this time around. I would prefer to use Finder and VLC to manage all of my music. I mostly play all my music on shuffle, so, could I create a playlist on VLC with all of my music and play it randomly? (im sure this is possible but i'd like to organize all my plans with confirmation.)
You are not obligated to use iTunes.
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All MBPs have back lighted keyboards. Your either needs a NVRAM reset or a repair.
Ciao.

Question about monitor calibration

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