Question about TimeCode breaks

Hopefully the questions will get less!!
Having discovered the HV30 can shoot in both HDV and DV mode, I am now trying to capture the scenes, which is going well. However, my ref book goes into quite a bit of detail about the issues of "timecode breaks".
I purposefully added some breaks to the movie I shot, by simply stopping and starting, nothing else. Used the Capture Now feature. FCE was able to find these breaks ( DV Start/Stop Detect) without problems, so I wonder what it is that I am missing about the significance of this method. {Capture is being done from HV30, FCE 4.0, 10.5.2) using a 800f/w cable directly to a drive on the computer).
Thanks in advance.

I have worked out a solution for timecode breaks which is easy and relatively uncomplicated.
Background:
I recently borrowed by Father's Canon ZR700 mini-DV video camera. I have an older ZR200. Both are decent cameras, especially for the price. However, when I tried to import video from the ZR700 camera using FCE 3.5.1, I experienced breaks in the time-code which produced an unworkably slow process as FCE looked for timecode breaks.
Solution:
After some thought, I decided to use iMovie 06 to experiment with off-loading the video to DV and then "sharing" it back to "video camera" via mini-DV tape.
By using this transfer technique and employing the ZR200 camera as the "sharing" camera - which takes a little extra time and loses the original time code information - I was able to produce a tape which created a smooth and continuous import into FCE without timecode breaks.
I went on to experiment with this same process using the original ZR700 as the "sharing" camera, that is to say, I shared the DV back to the same tape from which the original video was extracted, and it worked fine.
Although I can't exactly explain why this works, I suspect that the timecode is placed in the video using a different route than the record head and FCE can see it.
Why the Canon ZR700 model exhibits such random and poor quality timecode quality is unclear. It may be this particular unit or for some other reason associated with the design or production quality. However, the older ZR200 camera is great and gives solid timecodes on all my videos.
Last note: I also used a record speed of LP versus SP when I "shared" in iMovie 06, even though the original video came from an SP tape. I can't see any difference except that the tape lasts longer.
WARNING: This technique loses - or appears to lose - the original recording information which is imprinted on the tape, including the date and time when the video was recorded. In order to re-create that information, I place a note into the video in iMovie 06 which states when (date and time) the video was taken. Some people care about this information, others don't.
Well, that's my solution to dropped or irregular timecodes. I would be interested to know if this technique works with other cameras.

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    To unsubscribe, email '[email protected]' with
    'unsubscribe forte-users' as the body of the message.
    Searchable thread archive <URL:http://pinehurst.sageit.com/listarchive/>
    Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
    To unsubscribe, email '[email protected]' with
    'unsubscribe forte-users' as the body of the message.
    Searchable thread archive <URL:http://pinehurst.sageit.com/listarchive/>

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    Graphics cards have all those standard today... or at least they should unless you get a really cheap Graphics card. The kind of graphics card and processor and other specs of the computer you want to get should depend on what you want to do with it. It also depends on the kind of games you want to play. If you're playing FPS [first person shooter] then you need a really good graphics card and processor. If you're playing something like Diablo 2 or something that's on the lower end of graphics then you just need decent specs. Graphics cards, I suggest something with aGeForce Nividia card... as of today, they are in the 9 series for high-end cards I believe. For processors... get something like Intel Core 2 Duo T9500 or T9600 or the Core 2 Quatros or Extremes. Extremes are intended for hardcore gaming and would be more expensive. For RAM you should have at least 2GB... you can always upgrade that later.
    For laptops my suggestions are:
    $3k+ get a customized alienware
    $2-3 get a customized dell xps, or macbook pro [although if you're gaming i would suggest you dual boot with windows xp or vista]
    $1-2k get a cheaper customized dell, or sony vaio
    under $1k... well I don't know what to say... you can't really get a nice gaming computer for under that price.
    I personally DO NOT like HP computers at all because they are so quirky and have so many problems and break down easily.

  • Question about Tritton AX 720 Dolby Digital Surround Gaming Headset

    Hello, I have a question about the AX 720 that I hope someone can answer. I emailed Tritton and I'm not sure they understood what I was asking, so Ill try here. Ok, my question is this, Will I get audio through the headset if my set up is this: My X-BOX 360, my PS3 , and my Direct TV box are all hooked up to my TV via HDMI. My TV has an optical audio output, so if I hook up the AX 720's amp to my TV with the optical cable will I get the audio that is coming from that output into my headset? I'm using the Tritton AX 180's now hooked up almost exactly the same, except instead of the optical out, I'm using the red and white out that is right next to the optical out, and it works perfect. I get full audio from all 3, and the only time I have to change any cables is when I want to chat, but thats rare. I'm looking to upgrade to the 720 because I'm on my 3rd set of broken AX 180's. Ive read several reviews about the 720's and a few of them said that if your TV has an optical output that you can use that, and I hope its true. I hope this question makes sense, and thanks in advance for the help.

    @Rockadile: You are totally right about the AX 180's breaking, like I said Im on my 3rd set. Thankfully for the first break it was within the return period, then I made sure to buy the warranty when I got the second. Now that the 3rd has broken in the same exact place Im done with these. The problem is my heads big (wide), and because of this theres extra pressure on the plastic piece that connects to the ear piece. I had to make a custom metal bracket to fix it. What I did was take 2 pieces of flat metal and bent them into the shape and angle of the plastic that attaches the earpiece, then I electrical taped them VERY tight. So basically instead of the plastic getting the stress, the metal does. And it worked great up until now, its breaking just below the adjustable part where the plastic goes into top of the headset. I looked at the AX 720's and it seems like there alot wider and stronger in that area. But if I do get them I will be sure to buy the replacement warranty. Sucks having a big head!

  • How can I prevent my Camera Archive import from being interrupted by timecode breaks?

    I'm trying to create Camera Archives from my old mini-dv tapes. I have a Sony Handycam DCR-TRV22 connected via FireWire. When I start the Camera Archive import process, everything is fine for a while but then the process stops with a message about a break in the timecode preventing the archiving from completing.
    Solutions to this problem I've seen online relied on changing import preferences in Final Cut 7. Unfortunately, I only have Final Cut Pro X and I'm not sure how to control this setting.
    I don't really care about timecodes, I just want to dump the entire tape to disk so I have a backup of the tape but the timecode break is interrupting the process and making me get involved a lot more often during the import process.
    Does anyone know how to force Final Cut Pro X to push through timecode breaks in a Camera Archive import?

    To clarify, this problem is not simply making me get involved more, but is preventing the Camera Archive operation from completing.

  • Capturing issues looking for timecode break

    I am using FCP 4.5 and capturing onto a G raid Sata drive. But the capture process is very fragmented it keeps taking in about 20 seperate clips per 40 min role of DV. The message that comes up in the capture window says it is searching for timecode break but there is not one on the tape.
    Any tips?

    Strange maybe, but as a shooter, I've seen material show 'timecode' breaks on footage I've shot, knowing there was no break in tape....occasionally within a rolling shot. (JVC GY-DV500 camera)
    Could be the camera not laying a strong timecode signal...I've read that Canon's are notorious for this, though I've not experienced it myself...yet.
    Turning the camera off/on is very likely a culprit here. Not to be condescending, but here are my camera procedures to eliminate timecode breaks...not that you don't know this already...
    - Get in the habit of always rolling 5 sec. of tape before action starts and 5 seconds of tape after action ends.
    - Try not to turn the camera off.
    - Try not to do 'searches' on tapes that are being recorded on.
    - If the camera is turned off, or you need to search back into the tape, make sure you do NOT roll past the end of the last recorded frame...preferable stop a couple of seconds prior to the last recorded frame, and begin recording there.
    - If your camera is capable of generating Bars, try to record 10 seconds of bars in between scene or location changes.
    -if you have to pop the tape out of the camera at any point, follow the above listed practice of cueing up to a couple of seconds prior to the last recorded frame, and start recording there to pick up continous timecode.
    -Really, really try not to... (IOW - DON'T) use 'free-run' timecode. It will make editing an absolute nightmare...particularly for NLE's.
    not sure what mac os extended means
    This is how the drive is initially formatted. Often drives are designed to work with PCs and MACs. If you drive is not formatted Mac OS Extended, you could see abbreviated captures as well...among other problems...
    start/stop detect
    This will take a long capture and place markers at the points the camera stopped/started rolling, allowing you to create subclips from the original long clip...Main Menu/Mark/DV Start/Stop Detect...the camera must have an internal clock running, and not all cameras support this feature.
    Hope that helps,
    Kevan

  • Several Questions about Aperture Problems

    Having used Aperture for some time, and being a Mac user since 1985, I have a list of questions about Aperture that I need help with.
    1. Periodically operating the sliders will make an image turn black. Sometimes this is early in a session, sometimes late. Various workarounds will bring the image back, but once this starts, quitting seems the only option. Can anyone help me with why this happens and how to stop it?
    2. About 20% of the RAW files from my supported camera display the Unsupported Image Format error screen. These files operate perfectly in the manufacturers software and in other image management software that does not use the OS RAW libraries. Can someone help me with the cause of this and the solution (not a "workaround" but a way to make it stop happening).
    3. ALL of my RAW files from my supported camera, when I try to lift metadata, return the error message that there is no metadata to lift. But in fact, the metadata inspector displays metadata. How can I stop this from happening and experience normal metadata lifting?
    4. When I use the DNG format from my supported camera, a great many EXIF fields do not display, such as lens data. Can someone help me with DNG files, since these never generate the UIF error screen (cf. #2 above) as the manufacturer's RAW files do. I'm forced to use DNGs to have all my shots, but the EXIF data is not fully displayed.
    5. Today I opened Aperture and no previews would display. Aperture froze while updating thumbnails. I'd not done any non-routine edits or imported any unusual files or formats. Aperture then would not quit. Is it safe to attempt to restart Aperture?
    6. At times Aperture slows to the point of not working at all. Long pauses simply in trying to enlarge the selection circles for redeye removal, for example. What would cause Aperture to slow down without warning at any point in the workflow? How can I experience a more consistent operating speed from Aperture.
    7. How do other image management programs like Lightroom compare on these points? Is Aperture typical or should I seek a change in my workflow, improvement in my hardware, or some adjustment in my installation?
    Info: MacBook Pro, 4 GB RAM (apple), 320 GB drive, 45 GB free on drive; library of 3800 images. Fewer than 12 projects.
    Thanks for your assistance.

    n #3. It looks like you're absolutely right on this. I went back and checked on photos I'd edited and there was the altered metadata. +Many thanks for dispelling that concern!+ I love being a happy camper. Check that one off the list!
    On 1, I've followed the black-screen issues and pretty much all we know is that a workaround exists--usually selecting the crop box restores the picture, but a lot of times it blacks out again. Having used Apple products over 25 years, all of which was in my adult professional life, I haven't seen Apple willing to just let users tolerate an irritating "workaround." I think this is something that needs fixing.
    On 6--I don't understand how the rotational speed would produce erratic performance issues. I can go a month of reasonable performance, and then suddenly things bog down. Also, if that is the reason, this really ought to be part of the System Requirements, or at least, a recommendation. Maybe it is already--I should check to be sure. I confess this is one aspect I had not thought about.
    Thanks so much for thinking about these. I love my Apple products and have owned almost every generation of Mac since the "Fat Mac" (512K RAM! 800Kb Floppies!) and hate to stare at the screen and think I've been given a truly poor product--not in my DNA--but these things break my heart.
    Message was edited by: LawsonStone
    Message was edited by: LawsonStone

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