Question on Noise Reduction - help

Dears,
simple question.
When i adjust the noise reduction sliders (luminance, etc.), i only see the corrections applied to the preview box, but not in the full image. Can you confirm this is normal behaviour, and the image is filtered only once i export it from RAW (format in which i work) to JPG?
Thanks,
Vanni

The sliders in the detail panel have an effect when the image is shown at 1:1 or larger only.

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Noise reduction on track1 using noise print from track2

I have an audio track from a video project that was recorded on track1 that has a lot of interference from the wirelss mic that was so strong that it crossed over to the idle track2. Track1 has the voice and interference intermixed. Track2 just has the interference. How can I take a noise print from track2 and use it to reduce the corresponding noise on track1? Any ideas?

Bristol87 wrote:
In addition, to make the process more challenging, I am unable to get the audio in the edit frame to play at the same gain as in the multi-track frame. In edit mode I seem to be at a 0db gain whereas the multi-track is playing at over 12 to 20db.
I am also unclear how to get the changes back to Final Cut. When I go to File to save it I do not see a Save option that would transfer the edited audio back to the Final Cut Project.
For the additional items you mention:
1. In your multi-track project, check your volume envelopes on the track, and check the level on your submix and master. To do this, click the the disclosure triangle just left of the track name. You'll see in purple the envelopes section, which is like keyframes in FCP.
2. You have to export a mix to send it back to FCP. Go to File -> Export, save the master mix with a file name, and most likely as an aiff file, then in the dropdown "After Export" choose "Send to Final Cut Pro Sequence."
For your noise reduction questions - applying noise reduction is for broadband, sustained noise, like an air conditioner or a hum. Are you trying to apply the same noise reduction to several files because they have the same type of background noise? I generally just save my settings, but set a new noise print for each file. I'll give you a quick step by step:
Select a bit in the file where there's JUST noise. Then go to Process -> Noise Reduction -> Set Noise Print. Then select the entire file, and go to Process -> Noise Reduction -> Reduce Noise. When the noise reduction window comes up, you just need to listen and play with the settings until you're satisfied with how it sounds. As a starting point, take a look at the level of the noise alone, and use that as the threshold. Usually 100% noise reduction doesn't sound good, but you just have to use some trial and error. Too much sounds worse than too little, in my opinion. When satisfied, apply it and save the preset.
Hope this helps!
Matthew

Newbie question about vinyl noise reduction

Dear folks,
I am entirely new to Audition (trying out the Mac beta), so if this question is entirely answered by other threads, please just point me in the right direction. Thanks!
I am transcribing all my vinyl albums (48KHz, 32 bit) as FLAC files and now I need to clean up the transcriptions. Both DeClicker and Noise Reduction (process) seem to do an excellent job at the default settings for each, but I am not sure of the best way to use them--
First, which order is it best to use them in; DeClicker first or Noise Reduction first?
Second, are the default settings ( threshold :30 and complexity:16 forDeClicker and 100%/40dB for Noise Reduction ) the best ones to be using in general? If not, what qualities, audible or otherwise should I be looking/listening forto help me figure out the best settings to use?
Third, any recommendations for help files or tutorials I should read on this subject?
Thanks for your help!
Ctein

Ctein wrote:
If I understand you correctly, you're recommending two passes with the Noise reduction process-- one with a large FFT followed by one with a smaller FFT sample size, right? The default for the process is a 4K sample window, with windows from 0.5K to 16K available. What values would you recommend for the two passes, and what NR percentages and dB "reduce by's" would you recommend for each pass.
Yes you understand correctly, but it's rather difficult to say how much to use in any given situation, because it depends entirely on the condition of the original recording. The basic rule is 'as little as you can to achieve an acceptable result', whatever FFT size you are using. As for sizes, the 4k is fine for the LF pass (you might want to look at adjusting the blue line to shape it so that it only attacks the bass, as well) and 16k is fine for everything else.
In some ways it's easier to talk about what is a realistic end result to achieve, than actual reduction numbers. Realistically, you should be able to get vinyl noise floors down to around minus 60-65dB, assuming that your signals get close to 0dB peaks. But with some older records, you may well not get this far before things start to sound rather 'fake' because you've over-processed the results. Often it's better to monitor the results on a pair of headphones rather than speakers - you'll hear more low-level detail, and have a better idea of how much processing you can get away with.
Yes, RX2 is pretty damn good - as good as you can get, in fact. But for vinyl, with care you can definitely get good results with Audition, but it takes more effort, especially with the NR. What actually makes RX2 good is that the multiple pass part of the processing is done for you by the software, and that's the major difference - other than that, the basic algorithms are quite similar. But, it costs an arm and a leg, so unless you have a massive amount to do, or somebody's paying you to do this, it's a dubious investment.

Noise Reduction question for Aperture

I recently purchased my first iMac (after years of being a windows user) and decided to try out Aperture (to use with Photoshop Elements 10 as an outside editor). I am basically an Olympus user and like the way Aperture handles the Olympus ORF RAW files a bit better than Lightroom (which I have used since it was released).
Anyway, I do think that Lightroom did a better job of handling/adjusting the noise in the higher ISO Olympus RAW files than Aperture - again just starting with Aperture.
2 Questions:
(1) Am I missing something or is the only Noise Reduction controls in Aperture the two sliders that come up in the Inspector column?
(2) What is a good plug in for noise reduction that works with Aperture?
Thanks, Steve

People like Noise Ninja.

Need help with the noise reduction settings

Hi,
After som experimenting I need some help with the settings for noise reduction.
I just edited and converted a few pictures from RAW (D200) til 8-bit TIFF. Opend the file up in photoshop and was shocked to see the amount of noise in the pictures. I then exported the RAW-files and did the same conversion in Capture One 3.7.3 - The result is a lot better regarding noise. In capture One I'm using the noise reduction step before "High".
Can you share your experience with the optimal settings for best noise removal ?
Thanks in advance,
fbrose

i use it once in a while, but i play around with the sliders in full screen mode and at 100% and then see what the sliders do. I don't have a definite procedure that I can suggest though.

Lightroom, Photoshop, RAW Presharpening, Noise Reduction Workflow Help

I'm tying to determine a best practices route using Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop and Nik Software Sharpener and Dfine (Noise Management Software).
I shoot only RAW with a Canon EOS 30D with good quality lenses.
I import the RAW files from the CF card directly (DNG and save) into LR, add keywords, organize, etc.
However, I am now at the point where I need to determine a sensible workflow that includes these steps:
Import RAW into LR as DNG.
Edit, as needed, in PS.
Apply RAW Presharpening (as provided in Nik Sharpener).
Manage Noise (with Nik Dfine (2.0 available in next 24 hours).
Apply usage-based sharpening prior to printing or saving final file version.
Maintain organization in LR.
My original plan was:
1. Import RAW in LR.
2. Open in PS.
3. Apply noise reduction.
4. Apply RAW presharpening.
5. Save (with new version being an "Edit" copy back in LR.
6. Maintain organization in LR.
I'm wondering, though, if I wouldn't be better off doing the basics to the files prior to LR import. Note that the Nik tools work in 16-bit mode.
This is theoretically what I'm thinking, and would appreciate other user's input:
1. Save RAW files to location on Mac.
2. Apply Noise reduction to RAW files with Nik software within PS (perhaps automated, perhaps batched).
3. Apply RAW presharpening to RAW files with Nik software within PS (perhaps automated, perhaps batched).
4. Import noise- and presharpening-adjusted files into LR, with metadata additions, etc.
5. Open files in PS as needed, with files becoming edit versions within LR.
Any thoughts?

To summarize, then:
First time opening a RAW file from Lightroom, LR automatically creates a copy and appends "-Edit" to the filename. If it's a RAW file, only available option is the third option in the dialog box: "Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments."
Once opened in Photoshop, any number of adjustments can be made and saved. All adjustments are reflected in the -Edit copy when previewed in back in LR.
If, later, I want to perform further PS edits on the -Edit version, I have 3 options as presented in the dialog box.
1. "Edit Original (LR adjustments will not be visible)"
2. "Edit a Copy (LR adjustments will not be visible)"
3. "Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments"
Option 1 will open -Edit version #1 (but it will not show any changes made in LR to the -Edit file when opened in PS)
Option 2 will create a copy of -Edit version #1 and open that new file, -Edit-2 (but it will not contain any changes made in LR to the -Edit file)
Option 3 will create a copy of -Edit version #1 and open that new file, -Edit-2 and it will contain any changes made in LR to the -Edit file
So, a typical workflow would be:
1. Import RAW file in LR.
2. Make adjustments in LR.
3. If needed, open a copy (by default) in PS via LR (command-E).
4. Adjust in PS, save.
5. Adjusted file is stacked with original RAW file in LR.
6A. Assuming no additional edits in LR, further PS adjustments can be made to -Edit version original, keeping just 1 stacked version in LR.
6B. If additional adjustments are made to the saved -Edit version in LR, and further PS adjustments are needed, I must edit a copy of the -Edit file, ultimately resulting in a second stacked file.

Noise reduction not showing in develop module

I have noticed today that when I am reducing the noise in the develop module, the changes are not being represented on the image I am working with, except in the top left hand corner... too small for me to see clearly. But when I switch to Library module, the changes have indeed taken place. Has anyone experienced this? I need a fix because it's a bad guessing game adjusting my slider without seeing results until I switch modules. Haven't had this problem before. A lot of my work is turning out tooooo smooth!! I appreciate any help I can get with this.

Without question noise reduction and sharpening should only be adjusted at 100% view magnification. Hopefully the OP understands why now.
I tried viewing both 21Mp and 6Mp RAW images at 'Fit' magnification in the Develop module on my office system:
Vista Home Premium SP2 64bit
Lightroom 3.4.1
1280 x 1024 Monitor (Calibrated with i1 Display 2)
The 'Fit' size image on my 1,280 x1024 display with side panels up is 650 x 430. I increased the side panels for a 400 x 266 picture size, and tried it with side panels off for a 1,000 x 666 picture size – Noise reduction and sharpening is clearly applied in the Develop module for all of three view magnification sizes!
I would be interested for others to try this and report what they are seeing. I used a High ISO 128,000 RAW image so I could easily see the affect of noise reduction and sharpening controls at the 'Fit' magnification. If you don't see any change, try moving the Sharpening Amount and Luminance controls to 100 and then down to 0.
Note to the OP – Regardless of what you are seeing at 'Fit' view size, only adjust Sharpening and Noise Reduction at 100%. I'm just suggesting that you may in fact have a problem with your system. What Camera and file type are you using, LR version, operating system, and monitor(s)?

NOISE reduction for Vocal Track?

Hi,
I'm wondering whether will you use the Noise Reduction for Vocal Tracks?
Why i question it?because, most of the Home Recording Studio doesn't have a Proper Room Treatment, So might make the Room Noise recorded into the Vocal track...For that,will you use the Noise Reduction to solve the Noises?
appreciate to the helpful thread you've provide

but if the noise is... a sound that has been recorded in the same track with the
voice... you cannot do anything
Sure you can.
if the room is not separate are there is a ambient noise recorderd such as Phones
rings or Child crying
RX can deal with this too.
you can also try to silence every free space between the vocal parts...
because the sockets of breath voice will be certainly compromised
Not a problem with noise print removal. We're only removing/reducing the noise print, not any wanted signal.

Noise reduction, Clarity and Masking Vs Sharpness

Maybe I have been using too much noise reduction and clarity for bird photos. Some people on dpReview recommend no noise reduction and now I am inclined to believe them. Recently I tried using little to no noise reduction, little to no Clarity, lots of sharpening and about 40% masking.This gives the bird good feather detail and anything with less detail has little noise and better bokeh. In low detail areas it looks to me like masking reduces the noise caused by Sharpening but it has less affect on the noise increased by Clarity. Is this true? If it is, in bird photography is Clarity best used sparingly and selectively like on there heads?
Another reason for asking all this is I once read that even a little masking degrades sharpness but now I doubt that. Maybe LR has improved that through the years.
Thanks,
Doug

Indeed luminance noise reduction (and to some extent color noise reduction) has a tendency to wipe out fine feather detail.
I recommend:
* lowered noise reduction, and if you do use it, crank the nr.detail slider way up - this will help maintain fine feather detail and is superior to sharpening detail for maintaining feather detail otherwise lost due to noise reduction.
* lowered sharpening detail, to keep noise down, and reduce the "need" for noise reduction.
* and sharpen masking to taste..
Also note: local sharpening at exactly -50 masks all global sharpening, and so can be used in conjunction with noise reduction to smooth the bokeh areas.
And of course you can add sharpening and/or clarity locally too.
I realize I didn't answer your exact question perfectly as asked, but I'm not sure what else to say, so..
Have fun,
Rob

Applying Noise Print and Noise Reduction to Entire Sound File

It has been a while since I've opened Soundtrack Pro so I can't quite recall a final step in a noise reduction process I'm attempting:
1. I selected a portion of the track I'm working on that has just the tape hiss I'm trying to reduce.
2. then I selected "Set Noise Print",
3. then "Reduce Noise"
Question: how do I now apply the Reduce Noise setting to the entire track and not just on the portion of the track I sampled for the the Noise Print? I can't remember what the next step is. What am I forgetting here? Thanks.

It was so obvious that I figured it out immediately after the post.
After "Set Noise Print" I reselected the entire track and THEN applied "Reduce Noise".
Maybe getting a full night's sleep sometime would help me figure this sort of thing more quickly on my own.
Bye

B8080 (10 HD+) How I can OFF "microphone noise reduction" at video-recording?

With my Yoga 10 HD+ (model B8080) I have very bad sound than I recording (and play) sport-disco competition (with modern loud music) than I seating at scene (not under big dynamic loudspeaker).
B8080 can't record this music...
I listen only trash (crunch and sound holes).
How can I to OFF "microphone noise reduction"?
to test recording without reduction.
Thans for help!

Yes, you are right - you do already have most of the parts to the answer of your question.
For clarity here's the whole procedure:
1. Make sure you have cloned your drive properly, using Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper!*, and had set the clone to be bootable in the relevant utlity's preferences.
2. With the external drive still connected via FireWire, restart the PowerBook.
3. Upon hearing the startup chime, press and hold down the 'option'/alt key until you see the Startup Manager.
4. Select the icon of the drive you want to boot up from.
5. Click the 'right arrow' icon to boot up from the drive you have chosen.
*SD! has an option to automatically reboot from the external drive after the cloning process.
15" 1.25GHz/12" 1GHz PBs, 2xPPC Mac minis, 12" iBook G4, Mac OS X (10.4.7) Cube, 2xTAMs, iPod 4G & nano 2G, iPs, AEBS, AX

Why does PhotoShop CC 2014 crash my Windows 7 Professional 64-bit PC every time I try to use Sharpen/Blur Reduction and also Noise Reduction ??!!!???

Hi Adobe
You a have a really wonderful PhotoShop CC product. It's really great, and I know new versions such as 2014 have their teething problems.
But I am getting really sick of my Windows 7 Professional 64-bit PC being crashed whenever I try to use PhotoShop CC 2014 Sharpen / Blur Reduction and also Noise Reduction.
This happens both with JPG's and PSD's.
Please sort your **** out and get some patches out to address this quickly !!
Chris Tattersall

Chris,
It doesn't crash for everyone. A person could be forgiven for saying, in return, "Please sort out your **** system problems".
Trust me when I say many, many problems are caused by the computer system setup not being up to the needs of this cutting-edge graphics software. Photoshop is heavily dependent on the GPU, and GPU drivers are notorious for having bugs (they're primarily written to run games).
However, that being said, recent driver releases from both ATI and nVidia do actually work pretty well with Photoshop CC 2014.
What video card do you have?
What display driver version are you running?
If you're unsure how to tell these things, go into Photoshop, choose Help - System Info, copy the data, and post it here.
-Noel

How do PS CS3 Noise Reduction Filters compare with dedicated third-party plug-ins?

Am I missing something by not installing a dedicated Noise Reduction application into my PS CS3? Can Neat Image, Noise Ninja, Noiseware Pro, etc. do something that the PS CS3 Noise Filters can't do? Do these third-party aplications do it better?
Since I like flashless photography, and I generally carry with me small-sensor compacts when I travel, I'm frequently confronted with the problem of digital noise. I've always wondered how the third-party noise reduction applications perform in comparison with the Photoshop Noise Filters. I hope someone in this Forum has been able to acquire direct experience on this topic and will be kind enough to share this experience with us.
Kindest Regards,
Conrad

Conrad,
ACR 4.3 has better NR (noise reduction) than previous versions and can handle NR in most normal situations. However, available light photography with a small pixel sensor may require more NR and the specialized plugins such as Noise Ninja, NeatImage, and NoiseWare Pro can do a better job. I have all three and they do an excellent job, but I currently use NoiseWare most of the time.
Here is a demonstration of NoiseWare vs ACR NR, using 100% crops of an image taken with the Nikon D200, 1/320 sec at f/2.8. The image is reasonably sharp at normal viewing conditions, but has quite a lot of luminance noise. It was rendered with ACR and the settings were exposure +0.85, brightness +60. One thing you learn early in this type of shooting is to expose to the right to reduce noise, but this may conflict with stopping action and reducing camera shake. More exposure would have helped this image, and one should try to avoid exposures requiring this amount of positive exposure adjustment.
The results are shown below, followed by some discussion. Other comments are welcome. Color noise is not prominent in this image and I left color NR at its default.
ACR, No sharpening, no NR
ACR, Luminance NR 53, no sharpening
ACR, No NR, No sharpening, NoiseWare default, no sharpening
Noise reduction and sharpening are antagonistic processes. It is important that NR is applied before sharpening--you don't want to sharpen noise. Following NR there is an inevitable loss of detail, and some sharpening is necessary to restore the detail, but this also brings back the noise. One can use masks and blend if sliders in Photoshop in both NR and sharpening to mitigate some of these effects, and Bruce Fraser discusses the details in his excellent book on sharpening.
If you use an add on such as NoiseWare, you should turn off luminance sharpening in ACR. In doing so, you lose all those nifty sharpening features that have recently been added to ACR. I leave color NR at the default. It has a minimal effect on detail.
In adjusting the NR in ACR at 100% viewing, I estimated that a luminance setting of +53 was optimal. Beyond that, blotchy artifacts appear in the image.
For NoiseWarePro, I used the default settings with no sharpening. The NR effect is dramatic, but detail is lost and some sharpening is needed. This could be applied in NoiseWare or in Photoshop, perhaps with a plugin such as PhotoKit Sharpener. Personally, I have found that PK does not work well with this type of image because it bring back noise and produces artifacts.
In all of these examples, sharpening is needed following the NR. One could try to use surface masks to keep sharpening in Photoshop with the unsharp mask away from the edges. However, I find it is difficult to get a good surface mask, and I don't take the trouble.
For now, I use the sharpening built into NoiseWare. I don't know how it works internally, but it does have a slider for detail protection, and you can play with this to get the best result. It would be best to have the robust NR of the add ons built into ACR much like NoiseNinja is built into Bibble Pro. However, this is an ACR forum and I would expect that ACR is the preferred raw converter of those who frequent this forum.
After expending this much effort on the post, I hope to get some helpful feedback.

Upscaling and noise reduction in ACR

I've been thinking about upscaling images and the best time to do so (if I need to of course) in my workflow. As I understand it, it's always best to carry out any noise reduction prior to upsampling an image, as this helps avoid increasing the size of any noise that may be apparent in the image.
However, I'm thinking that in ACR, this in theory would not be neccessary as ACR would carry out any noise reduction and upsampling in a pre-defined processing order. So put simply, I could increase the image size and then carry out any NR as required after upscaling. This would allow me to tailor the NR to fit the increased image dimensions (and of course I could then carry out capture sharpening for the larger image as well).
Is my thinking correct here - does it not really matter in terms of image quality if I don't do any NR before changing the image dimensions in ACR?
M

I did a lot of experimentation with upsampling during conversion.
I found that - in my opinion - upsampling during Camera Raw operation yields superior results to doing it later. I also believe that dialing in some noise reduction during Camera Raw is needed, as even low ISO images get pretty grainy otherwise.
Every camera is different, but what I ended up saving for defaults is this, keeping in mind that I do my conversions to the largest possible image size, then downsample later for specific uses.
Only you know what your goals are and what you like in your images, so I encourage you to experiment as I did with different combinations of settings to try to find the right balance.
-Noel

Rauschen - Noise reduction - Denoise

I need to reduce noise on my photos, but it does not work with PS Touch even if the option is there! I have moved the slider from 0 to 100. It tried with another app that is adobe ps express, and it worked well.

I have the same exact issue!
I've tried re-installing and rebooting the phone. I literally bought the app to make my skin look sexy and smooth with the noise-reduction! But it's not working! Please help my skin look good!

Question on Noise Reduction - help

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