Question on scanned images and coloring in Photoshop

I have some sketches from my drawing class that I would like to scan and color in Photoshop. I scan the sketch
but I can't add color. I've tried 'lassoing' a portion of the drawing
but the paint bucket still won't add color.
What am I doing wrong? Please help.
thanks.

The Paint Bucket tool may be the wrong tool, or at least you may have its Threshold set to a low value, as it replaces pixels only of a similar color to the one you click on.
It may be more direct to just select the Brush tool and set up a large brush to paint solid color in the region you selected.
If you want to get into more advanced functionality, which will allow you to correct mistakes or continue to adjust your colorizing for example, perhaps you will want to create a new layer and paint on that layer. Without knowing your goals it's hard to advise further, but you might also want to learn more about Layer blending mode "Color" vs. "Normal".
-Noel

Similar Messages

FCPX: Still Images and Color Effects

What I am doing is not working so clearly I am doing it incorrectly . . .
I have some still images and want to change the color to night-time "over time". I thought I could use keyframes to do it but when I do that, it changes the color of the entire image instantly. It is not a gradual change. Maybe I am setting the keyframe in the wrong place, I am not sure. Anyway here is how I am settin the keyframs and also the panel I am working in to do the color adjustment. It seems the keyframes are being set in the "Transform All" section and I want them in the color section but can't get them in there. Can someone please tell me how to do this correctly?

Tom, I have a question. I can split the clip -no problem; however, when I add the first color correction (going from day to night color), it is going to apply the color change instantly with no gradual fade to night. In the second clip, I can do another color correction going from night back to day but, again, it will be applied instantly. I think I might be misunderstanding your method. Can you explain, please.
Or are you saying that one clip would be day and one would be night, and the cross-dissolve would blend the two?

Automator to scan images using Twain into Photoshop CS

Hi, I Need to scan about 500 certificates to my hard drive.
I have Photoshop CS and Epson 1650 scanner. What I would like to do it to be able to run an automate task from Photoshop that scans, imports and opens the certificate.
To import at the moment I have to go to FIle>Import>EpsonTwain 5. Then I have to wait each time as Epson Twain boots up (Is there a way of keeping this open?). Then I have press either the Full Auto Mode or Scan (Scan for Preset manual parameters, which I would prefer) before the image finally appears.
I would then like to finish the automator run with Image>Adjustments>Auto levels and Save as.
Photoshop does not appear in the Applications Library in Automator and I am very new to Automator, so if SKS could point me in the reight direction I would be very grateful.
Thanks and take care. Matt
iMac 800MHz Power PC G4 Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1GB SDRAM

>
Hi,
You can try a package named: JTwain, which is
available at http://asprise.com/product/jtwain.
JTwain supports all kinds of digital cameras and
scanners. You can use Java to access, contorl digital
cameras and scanners, and of course, to acquire
images with flexible settings.
The developers' guide is available @
http://asprise.com/product/jtwain/devGuide.php
In its simplest case, one line of Java code can solve
your problem.
Good luck!Hi
this is licensed... have to figure out an implementation of TWAIN itself..

Background images and color

What instance would background image and background colors
not show in a browser? (All other images are fine)

Cosmic rays.
Murray --- ICQ 71997575
Adobe Community Expert
(If you *MUST* email me, don't LAUGH when you do so!)
==================
http://www.projectseven.com/go
- DW FAQs, Tutorials & Resources
http://www.dwfaq.com - DW FAQs,
Tutorials & Resources
==================
"Murray *ACE*" <[email protected]> wrote
in message
news:gbu845$7gd$[email protected]..
>A color specification without the required octothorpe
>
> --
> Murray --- ICQ 71997575
> Adobe Community Expert
> (If you *MUST* email me, don't LAUGH when you do so!)
> ==================
>
http://www.projectseven.com/go
- DW FAQs, Tutorials & Resources
>
http://www.dwfaq.com - DW FAQs,
Tutorials & Resources
> ==================
>
>
> "TC2112" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:gbu7sb$782$[email protected]..
>> Hello,
>>
>> Some examples would be incorrect CSS, an incorrect
link to a CSS
>> stylesheet, another element with a background color
"on top" of the
>> background blocking it, an incorrect path to the
image....
>>
>> The answer is in the code.
>> Do you have a link you could post?
>>
>> Take care,
>> Tim
>>
>> "TaraLeigh" <[email protected]>
wrote in message
>> news:gbu7bj$6hs$[email protected]..
>>> What instance would background image and
background colors not show in a
>>> browser? (All other images are fine)
>>
>>
>

AS3 images and colors

I need some help with AS3. I got my color pickers working to change the image and background color. So everything is working like i want it for one image. I have about 10 images i need to be able to choose from. I want to be able to select an image from a drop down or something and that image replaces the image in the box. any help is much appriciated.

not sure what i'm doing with the loader, i went throught the tutorial and got it to work in the tutorial, but i don't know how i would incorporate that function to work with my script. i appriciate all your help.
here is my script on the (turtle image layer).
// theimage is a display object on the Stage.
// blueBtn, redBtn, greenBtn, and blackBtn are buttons on the Stage.
import flash.events.MouseEvent;
import flash.geom.ColorTransform;
// Get access to the ColorTransform instance associated with theimage.
var colorInfo:ColorTransform = theimage.transform.colorTransform;
// This function is called when blueBtn is clicked.
function makeBlue(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0x003399;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
blueBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeBlue);
blueBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeBlue);
// This function is called when redBtn is clicked.
function makeRed(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0xFF0000;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
redBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeRed);
redBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeRed);
// This function is called when greenBtn is clicked.
function makeGreen(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0x00CC00;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
greenBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeGreen);
greenBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeGreen);
// This function is called when blackBtn is clicked.
function makeBlack(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0x000000;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
blackBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeBlack);
blackBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeBlack);

Question about "Native ISO" and Color Grading in PP

I have a question about "Native ISO" in the real world and how it relates to color grading. I was shooting 35mm film before all these digital cameras became flat-out amazing practically overnight. Then the goal was always to shoot with the lowest ISO possible to achieve the least amount of grain (unless you were making an artistic decision to get that look). If I was shooting outside plus had a nice lighting package I'd shoot 5201/50 ASA (Daylight) and 5212/100 ASA (Tungsten) 99 times out of 100.
I've recently been shooting a lot with the Blackmagic 4K and have read that its "Native ISO" is 400. Because of my film background this seems counter-intuitive. Yesterday I was shooting for a client and had the camera at an f16 with a 200 ISO. Because of what I'd read, I was tempted stop down to an f22 and change my ISO to 400... but the "little film voice in my head" just wouldn't let me do it. It kept telling me "Higher ISO means more noise... stay at 200 and you will get a cleaner image".
So how does it work with "Native ISO"? Should I really shoot at a 400 ISO every chance I get in order to capture the best image for how the camera is calibrated? Will it really give me more latitude when color grading? Or would I still get a cleaner image staying at ISO 200? I've Googled around quite, but haven't found any articles that answer specifically this question. Would love to hear from someone who knows a bit more on the subject or has a link that could point me in the right direction.
Thanks much.

Hey, shooter ... yea, interesting discussion and always nice to learn. Great pic, too!
jamesp2 ...
Great answer. I've followed quite a bit of the discussion about the BM cams as well, one does feel a need to check out the possibilities for that next beastie one will need to acquire. But ... which one?
I've always been a bit of a hard-case about testing testing testing. For instance, what happens with dome down or use of a flat diffuser vs. dome in the up position in metering? Back in the film days, we had our own lab and did our own printing as well as the um ... difficult images ... from other studios. I needed to know how to get exactly the same diffuse highlight no matter whether it was a "standard" light 3:1 studio shot, or a near-profile with no fill that needs dark shadows. I tested & burned through boxes of medium-format polaroid & 120 film and a lot of color paper. Finding? To get the same print time no matter the contrast or lighting style, needed to be metered either with the flat disc (Minolta) or dome-down (Sekonic) and held at the highlight-location pointed at the main light source. I could meter and nail the exposure every time. Ahh no, insist so many ... one must have the dome on/up and pointed at the camera! Right. Do that, change the contrast, and see what happens to your diffuse forehead highlight on a densitometer ... and see how your printing exposure times change. Oh, and you've just moved your center-of-exposure up or down on the film's H&D curve, which will also change the way the shadows & highlights print. In truth, though it was subtle, we had realistically no matter latitude for a best-case image with pro neg film as one had with chromes. You could probably get away with being "off" easier, but it still wasn't dead-on.
So wading into video ... oi vey, you may have noticed the things claimed here there & everywhere ... this setting is God's Gift to Humanity but no, it's total crap ... this sensor is totally flawed but someone else is certain it's the finest piece out there. Yes, opinions will be all over ... but ... in film, it was the densitometer. In video, it's the scopes. Truth. And getting to that can be a right pain. I've seen quite a few contradictory comments about using the BM cams in film mode and also at ISO 200. Yours above gives the most ... comforting? ... explanation (for me) because of your reference to your scopes & the waveform patterns. Thank you.
Love to learn ...
Neil

Optimizing images and color problems in Catalyst

I really need your guy's help.
First of all, I am trying to figure out the best way to optimize images. I have a bunch of logos that are pdfs/ai files that I want to make thumbnails and full size images for a part of my portfolio site. No matter what I do the logos get choppy. Whether creating jpegs in illustrator, rasterizing the images, etc. Any ideas?
Also, every time I bring an AI file into catalyst blacks/grays seem to be different. Anywhere I use any kind of low opacity or something things are screwed up. Faded whites in illustrator are bright white in catalysy. Low opacity whites (grays) are brown. WAY off. Any ideas there?
This is driving me crazy and I have a deadline for this coming up very soon. I feel like I have gotten nowhere after hours and hours of this
Thanks!

Hi there,
Here's a collection of material that should help:
FAQ: How do I optimize Illustrator graphics for best performance in Flash Catalyst?
Here are a few specific snippets from that collection that apply to your specific situation:
-To reduce color differences when comparing colors in Catalyst and Illustrator/Photoshop, set Proof Colors to "Monitor RGB" (In Illustrator, go to View> Proof Setup and choose Monitor RGB). (From Ian Giblin's slide deck, pg. 19)
-When creating documents in Illustrator that will be imported into Catalyst, set the document color space to RGB. There is a new document profile for Flash Catalyst built into Illustrator (select it from the New Document menu in Illustrator's new document dialog box). This does other helpful things like turning on "Align to Pixel Grid, and setting your document size to the commonly-used 800 x 600 pixels.)
-Regarding the choppy logos, try using the "Optimize vector graphics" command in Catalyst (select your logo on the artboard, and in the Heads-Up-Display, choose Optimize artwork and then Optimize vector graphics. This feature is made for optimizing vector art for good performance, while still maintaining the ability to edit the vectors later if needed. You can also convert the logos to raster images right inside of Catalyst, by choosing "Rasterize" instead of Optimize vector graphics. More details are in this great FlashCats blog post.

Question about brightening images and automating layers

I've been using Photoshop CS5 for a while now but there are still a few things I'm wondering about.
The first is about brightening an image without adding or reducing too much contrast at the same time. If I increase the Brightness slider in the Brightness/Contrast window it often adds too much unwanted contrast and will wash out parts of the image or cause too much saturation. Same thing when using Curves to brighten the image. On the other hand I've found that using Levels to brighten the image reduces too much contrast and desaturates the image too much...and then when I add more contrast in afterward, parts of the image will become washed out again. So far the best solution I've found has been to brighten the images with Shadows/Highlights, but this will often pose its own set of problems by creating or eliminating shadows in a way that doesn't flatter the image. It can also add too much contrast in some cases. Is there any other way around this that I'm missing? Or is this all to be expected when brightening images? The only other workaround I've found has been to add in separate un-affected layers for the areas of the picture that become too washed out when the brightness is increased but then there's always a problem of getting those parts of the picture to match up with the rest afterward.
The second is about having layers for each change applied to an image. Is there any way to have each change that is applied to an image automatically also be made into its own separate layer? For example, if I sharpen a part of the image that would automatically become layer 2, then if I adjusted the saturation that would automatically become layer 3 and so on. I know the History Panel does something very similar to this, and that's the type of thing I'm looking for, but I'd like each of those changes being made into a layer instead of just a recorded history state. This way, for example, I could individually adjust each change with the opacity slider and compare the image with and without some of the changes by clicking the eye icon next to each layer. I know new layers can be created manually but I'm looking for some way to automate it.
Thanks for the help.

The second is about having layers for each change applied to an image. Is there any way to have each change that is applied to an image automatically also be made into its own separate layer? For example, if I sharpen a part of the image that would automatically become layer 2, then if I adjusted the saturation that would automatically become layer 3 and so on. I know the History Panel does something very similar to this, and that's the type of thing I'm looking for, but I'd like each of those changes being made into a layer instead of just a recorded history state. This way, for example, I could individually adjust each change with the opacity slider and compare the image with and without some of the changes by clicking the eye icon next to each layer. I know new layers can be created manually but I'm looking for some way to automate it.
You seem to have no firm grasp yet on the concept of non-destructive image editing using Photoshop’s existing options, specifically Adjustment Layers, Smart Objects/Smart Filters and Layer Masks.
The Layers structure is a much more valuable tool than the History in my opinion.
Instead of applying an Adjustment or Filter destructively you might want to try applying it as an Adjustment Layer or a Smart Filter (either with its own Mask or on a copy of the Smart Object with a Layer Mask, because all Smart Filters applied to one instance of a Smart Object must share one Mask).
Those Layers can subsequently be changed with regard to Opacity, Blend Mode etc. or the Adjustment and Filter settings themselves.

Jpeg images and color gamuts

When I make a jpeg image in my camera, it is assigned the adobe rgb gamut.
What happens when it is imported in LR? Does the gamut change to prophoto automatically?
When I print the jpeg do I have to specify the color gamut? If it isn't prophoto rgb, there is no place to specify the gamut?
Can anyone explain?
Andy

Yes it is. You might want to read up in the manual about still importing and also about audio sampling rates.

Scanned images and dates

Suppose you know the dates that negative film images were taken. Any
suggestions on how to manage these dates? Scanners will typically include
the date the image was scanned, but how and where do you put the date of the
original photograph? Do you set the date in LR or some other tool?
Best,
Christopher

I put them in outside of LR before loading them into LR. There are various tools you can use for doing this. If you want to have two dates, you have to do it yourself. There is the original date (called various things) and the date digitized. Date time original and digitized date are the same with digital cameras. I like to put in the date digitized, if for no other reason I know which scanner I used.
Lightroom has had problems with dates. I don't know if these problems are fixed. The trouble is dates are included in all three portions of the metadata. The camera writes (and I wrote with my editing tools) the date time in EXIF. There are also IPTC dates and LR writes XMP dates. This is why it's important to do it before LR touches the files.
Date time original and date time digitized are shown in the right metadata panel. "Date time" for my scans is the date I wrote the metadata, I guess a date time modified.
Judy

Lead Page Layout General Question - User Interface - Fields and Color

General question if possible to do this or not, can we make a field be in color similar to the red required fields?

Changing field or text colours is not support by OnDemand at this time

How do I restore a photo to its original image and color?

I do not know where to find the "restore to original" feature. I forgot to make a copy before I changed the photo. This is new to me.
Mark Only

If you've saved over it and closed it, you can't. If you haven't closed it, use undo to get back to the original.
You don't have a backup or the original on a memory card?

VBA code to import scanned images into Photoshop CS2 with TWAIN

Hi,
I have to develop a solution that automates the scanning of an image using the TWAIN driver interface. Once scanned, the image appears as a new document in Photoshop where it will be further processed using VBScript scripts.
The solution so far :
Using the freeware 'EZTW32.dll' (copied into C:\WINDOWS\System\), I am able to open the TWAIN scan dialogue on screen, using the function 'TWAIN_AcquireToClipboard(Me.Hwnd, nPixTypes) from the 'EZTW32' dll.
Once the image is scanned, the TWAIN driver is automatically closed, leaving the scanned image on the Windows clipboard.
I then launch Photoshop CS2 using a shell code :
(It is important that Photoshop runs minimized)
Dim strPathname As String
Dim lngShellReturn As Long
Dim appRef As Object
Dim newDocRef
strPathname = "C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop CS2\Photoshop.exe"
lngShellReturn = Shell(strPathname, vbMinimizedNoFocus)
Set appRef = CreateObject("Photoshop.Application")
When Photoshop is running, then a new document is created and the scanned image is pasted into the document from the Windows clipboard...
Set newDocRef = Documents.Add(8.268, 11.693, 600, "New Doc")
newDocRef.Paste
OK, this works up to a point. The newly scanned image appears automatically in Photoshop.
The big problem is that when the user makes a change in resolution or draws a selection box in the TWAIN dialog, this data is not recovered from TWAIN, so the image size parameters in the new document cannot be set.
A beter solution would be to write code that emulates the menu commands in Photoshop CS2:
File -> Import -> [Current Scanner]
that launches the TWAIN driver for the current scanner (the code must close TWAIN immediately after scanning). In this case, the resolution and image selection parameters are also imported into the new document.
I am currently refering to the Photoshop CS2 SDK. Do I need to request the Advanced SDK ?
Once beyond this point, then I think I can continue the image processing routines using VBScript as per the SDK.
Any help or other pointers to the TWAIN problem would be VERY APPRECIATED !
Lars

PLEASE IGNORE MY PREVIOUS POST !
I have now fully resolved the TWAIN problem. It works perfectly and is very robust. I am now continuing with the batch image processing for the newly scanned images using the Photoshop CS2 SDK scripting documents, that I find very detailed, well written, and VERY helpful :)
Peace and love,
Lars

I am using Photoshop CC, how do I scan an image (hand drawn) into photoshop?

I am using Photoshop CC, how do I scan an image (hand drawn) into photoshop?

Hello,
please have a look at "Photoshop Help/Acquiring images from cameras and scanners" >>>
http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/acquiring-images-cameras-scanners.html#WSfd1234e1c4 b69f30ea53e41001031ab64-790ca
>>> Importing scanned Images and so too here for some critical responses/voices in
https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1245120
https://forums.adobe.com/message/6152457
Hans-Günter

How to send images and other colored text in email body

Hi
We are using SAP CRM 4.0 and we would like to send email to our customers using actions configured for activity. Our objective is to send Marketing Emails containing <u>Images and Color texts</u> in the BODY OF THE email and not as a PDF attachment.
The only relevant provision we could see in SCOT is either Text or PDF. On using text , we are loosing all images and color. The PDF option works , but the email generated is a blank email with PDF document as attachment.
We want the matter to be inserted in the body of the email and not as attachment.
Please do let us know if any one has faced similar situation and is there a resolution.
Thanks and Advance.
Regards
Sachi

Are you pasting in the HTML code?
You can't use the formats in the CRM editor to set bold text, etc. You have to use the HTML code and have set the Form up as Internet mail
http://help.sap.com/saphelp_crm40sr1/helpdata/en/82/dbfd38ccd23942e10000000a114084/content.htm
Here's the first screen setting for my test email:
Form          Y_TRADE_SHOW_INVITATION        / Trade Show Invitation (Test)
                                                                                Form Usage              1 Internet Mail (SMTP)
    Text Type               1 HTML
    IBU Scenario
    Customer Scenario
Page Format             DINA4         Status    Created
Characters Per Inch     10.00
    Lines Per Inch          6.00
    Style                   SYSTEM SAP Smart Forms Default
Created By         MANECITO            Changed By         MANECITO
     Date               01/16/2007          Date               05/22/2007
     Time               09:49:12            Time               18:01:51
then, your email has to have the HTML tags
A bare minimum is your email has to have the <HTML> tag at the top, but it's advisable to be sure you have a more complete setup like this:
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"
"http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd">
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<title>Untitled Document</title>
<style type="text/css">

</style>
</head>
<body>
ENTER YOUR HTML MESSAGE HERE
</body>
</html>

Question on scanned images and coloring in Photoshop

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