Question Regarding 2010 iMac 11,3 Ram...
Good afternoon to all,
I own two Mac computers... 1st is a 2010 iMac 11,3 2.93mhz and it has 8g's of RAM that consists of 4-2g. The 2nd is a mid 2012 13" MBP 9,2 2.9mhz and it came with 8g's of RAM installed.
The iMac runs 1333mhz DDR3
The MBP runs 1600mhz DDR3
I am upgrading the MBP to 16g's and I would like to use the 2-4g chips out of the MBP in the iMac.
I understand that it will not work at 1600mhz because the iMac is clocked at 1333mhz but will it work in my iMac. The reason I ask is merely to not waste it.
Only use the RAM specified for each iMac. iMacs are sensitive to RAM and installing incorrect RAM at the very least can cause crashes and at an extreme cause damage to OS X. It is always wise to hold onto original RAM as it can be used for testing in the event you have future RAM related problems. I strongly suggest that when upgrading the RAM that you use either OWC (www.macsales.com) or Crucial due to their reliability.
Similar Messages
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Several Questions Regarding the Imac
Hello everyone.
I'm on the fence about purchasing a new Imac. I'm interested in a 24" model, potentially with the 2.4 Ghz processor.
I'm a lifelong Windows user, and like many Windows users, I have some reservations from making the switch over to an Imac. Led by the fact that I'd need to purchase Microsoft Office for Mac ($150) and a screenwriting software ($100) that already runs smoothly on my current XP based Dell tower (it would be an additional computer to authorize the software on, because they limit the number of times you can add it to individual computers. bastards).
However, after using the 24" Imac at an Apple store, I'm intrigued by the idea of getting one, led by my desires to begin shooting short films/editing them with my Imac.
I have questions. A whole bunch. But your answers would be greatly, greatly, greatly appreciated. Here goes......
1. I have an ancient HP Inkjet 932c printer. I believe it's 6 years old. Will I be able to use this printer with my Imac?
2. How well will Final Cut Pro run on my desired Imac if I upgrade it to 4 GB of RAM? Is it better to upgrade the memory vs. purchasing the 2.8 Ghz Imac?
3. Is purchasing 4 GB of RAM from Crucial the best way to get the most out of my new computer/using Final Cut? (Certainly much cheaper than doing it via Apple).
4. Perhaps I'm making myself paranoid by reading through all the forum sections regarding the Imac, but I'm reading a lot of posts regarding internet speed issues using a router. I have a Linksys WRT54GS router. I was planning on using it via an ethernet cable to the Imac. Can anyone confirm or deny that this would be an easy transition?
5. This is a BIGGIE for me: the glare found on these new screens. My Imac would be located in a room that contains several windows from different sides (shades pulled up during the day). I don't want to have to draw my shades during the day in order to avoid the glare. Do you reckon this will be a major issue in this room?
6. What is Apple's return policy? If I hold off upgrading the RAM manually, but decide the Imac is not for me (glare issues, internet connection, other reason), can I easily return it? Is there a set amount of time I have to do so?
7. Someone complained on this forum about this version of the Imac I'm describing as having a "super slow dvd unit". I'm looking to do a lot of video editing and DVD burning. Does the Imac have a relatively slow DVD player/burner/component?
I know I have a lot of questions, but this is a huge investment for me financially, and I also want to make sure my next home computer purchase is something that can last me a long time (8 - 10 years).
Your answers are GREATLY appreciated in advance. Thanks!Hello,
Remember a Mac is a PC so you can get install Windows XP or Vista and continue to make use of your software investments on the Windows side to ease your migration. Personally I do use Microsoft Office (v.X) but there are alternatives out there. Apple's iWork is Office compatible and although very different may do all that you require. Also look at open-source (free) alternatives like NeoOffice (link).
Just to confirm George's excellent answers:
1. Mac HP 932 Driver (link).
2. I've never used FCP but I used to edit video on my iMac G3 400MHz with 256MB RAM back in 1999 so I can't see you'd have any issues on a modern iMac. I do have the 2.8GHz and it breezes through all the video tasks I throw at it. I expect the 2.4GHz would be similar.
3. Crucial, or OWC or any other reliable Mac-RAM supplier (link).
4. You should be able to pull the Ethernet from the PC and connect the iMac (or connect both at once).
5. Difficult to answer. The screens are very shiny. My iMac faces away from the window so I don't notice it. Not sure I'd want a window behind.
6. Apple's normal policy is a 10% restocking fee if you return the iMac through your choice. I agree with George that you should buy the minimum RAM from Apple. If you did get the 2.8GHz this would mean customizing the iMac which apparently makes returns impossible. Returns Policy.
7. Most iMac models (including the current batch) use laptop optical drives rather than the fuill size desktop optical drives. This means that the burn speeds are lower. The maximum speed is 8x DVD burn versus the 20x or 18x you'd expect from a desktop drive today. If you do a lot of burning external (desktop size) drives can be had very cheaply.
The iMac G3 I mentioned above is still going strong after 8 years (it's had RAM and hard disk replacements but only through my choice) although I did have to replace the PRAM battery (£6) to keep it working.
cheers
mrtotes -
Hi, I want to downgrade from OSX LEOPARD to OSX TIGER but I have a few questions regarding this. My iMac is originally from Sep 2007 it came preloaded with tiger. I have original install (2) tiger discs version 10.4.10. I want to know if it is safe and what are the necessary steps to do so. Also by downgrading im wondering if a lot of apps nowadays support tiger for example I have photoshop version 5 and 4 these are very important to me. One last question does anyone know of any reliable virus protection for mac that doesnt slow down your computer? because I have read that a lot of them do so. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it! Here are the specs for my iMac
Model Name:
iMac
Model Identifier:
iMac7,1
Processor Name:
Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:
2 GHz
Number Of Processors:
1
Total Number Of Cores:
2
L2 Cache:
4 MB
Memory:
2 GB
Bus Speed:
800 MHzMost of the time a perception of general slow performance is the result of installing third party junk alleged to speed up, "clean" or "optimize" your Mac, or to look for viruses that don't exist. Ideally you would know what you installed so you can uninstall it, but if you don't know or aren't sure there are techniques such as Safe Mode and creating a temporary user account to confirm that suspicion.
If you open Activity Monitor it may show a process, or processes, that occupy a lot of your system's time.
Slowness confined solely to web browser activity is often the result of an inexorable progress toward websites that demand ever more processor-intensive tasks. If your slow performance is strictly limited to web browsing, you might try disabling Flash by either uninstalling it, or use utilities such as ClickToFlash that allow you to control what Flash content gets loaded. Flash in itself is not inherently evil, but there is nothing to stop websites or the advertisers who pay for them from writing horrible Flash code that can do everything from hogging 100% of your CPU's time to causing random crashes. You can watch Activity Monitor as in the above to correlate these troublesome web pages with performance degradation.
You are correct; if your computer shipped with Tiger you may certainly revert to it. I forgot that Tiger was shipping on new Macs as recently as five years ago. To downgrade it would be necessary to completely erase your hard disk and boot with the Tiger installation DVD, followed by installing it anew. Such drastic measures are not necessary and you are unlikely to be satisfied with the results anyway.
Assuming your system is free of third party parasitic junk attached to OS X in an ill-conceived attempt to improve upon it, that your hard disk drive is sound and the boot volume has enough free space to work with, by far the best performance-enhancing improvement would be to add more memory. Buy as much as your computer can use and that you can afford. 2 GB is not that much any more.
Read the following for some recommended troubleshooting techniques from Apple:
General purpose Mac troubleshooting guide: Isolating issues in Mac OS X
Creating a temporary user to isolate user-specific problems: Isolating an issue by using another user account
Memory limitations: Using Activity Monitor to read System Memory and determine how much RAM is being used
Identifying resource hogs and other tips: Runaway applications can shorten battery runtime
Starting the computer in "safe mode": Mac OS X: What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode? -
I just updated my RAM (replaced the two 2 gig cards with two Corsair 8 gig cards) and I keep getting a crash report. I have a 21.5 Inch mid 2010 imac. I also am experiencing slow load times with Photoshop and when I try to open Final Cut it says that quartz extreme is not compatible and that I have no VRAM even though I do.
Here is the crash report:
Interval Since Last Panic Report: 5426204 sec
Panics Since Last Report: 2
Anonymous UUID: 2DD57DDB-BB42-5614-395A-CA6225BDAFD9
Wed Mar 20 11:36:53 2013
panic(cpu 0 caller 0xffffff801aa43d8e): "a freed zone element has been modified in zone: maps"@/SourceCache/xnu/xnu-2050.18.24/osfmk/kern/zalloc.c:219
Backtrace (CPU 0), Frame : Return Address
0xffffff81eb0eb950 : 0xffffff801aa1d626
0xffffff81eb0eb9c0 : 0xffffff801aa43d8e
0xffffff81eb0eba00 : 0xffffff801aa435d2
0xffffff81eb0ebae0 : 0xffffff801aa663f7
0xffffff81eb0ebb20 : 0xffffff801aa67398
0xffffff81eb0ebc70 : 0xffffff801aa6887c
0xffffff81eb0ebd20 : 0xffffff801ad5b8fe
0xffffff81eb0ebf50 : 0xffffff801ade182a
0xffffff81eb0ebfb0 : 0xffffff801aaced33
BSD process name corresponding to current thread: launchd
Mac OS version:
Not yet set
Kernel version:
Darwin Kernel Version 12.2.0: Sat Aug 25 00:48:52 PDT 2012; root:xnu-2050.18.24~1/RELEASE_X86_64
Kernel UUID: 69A5853F-375A-3EF4-9247-478FD0247333
Kernel slide: 0x000000001a800000
Kernel text base: 0xffffff801aa00000
System model name: iMac11,2 (Mac-F2238AC8)
System uptime in nanoseconds: 1070542822
last loaded kext at 707348380: com.apple.driver.AppleIRController 320.15 (addr 0xffffff7f9c53e000, size 28672)
loaded kexts:
at.obdev.nke.LittleSnitch 3908
com.apple.driver.AppleIRController 320.15
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBCardReader 3.1.0
com.apple.driver.AppleFileSystemDriver 3.0.1
com.apple.AppleFSCompression.AppleFSCompressionTypeDataless 1.0.0d1
com.apple.AppleFSCompression.AppleFSCompressionTypeZlib 1.0.0d1
com.apple.BootCache 34
com.apple.iokit.SCSITaskUserClient 3.5.1
com.apple.driver.XsanFilter 404
com.apple.iokit.IOAHCIBlockStorage 2.2.2
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBHub 5.2.5
com.apple.driver.AppleFWOHCI 4.9.6
com.apple.driver.AirPort.Atheros40 600.70.23
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBEHCI 5.4.0
com.apple.driver.AppleAHCIPort 2.4.1
com.apple.iokit.AppleBCM5701Ethernet 3.2.5b3
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBUHCI 5.2.5
com.apple.driver.AppleEFINVRAM 1.6.1
com.apple.driver.AppleACPIButtons 1.6
com.apple.driver.AppleRTC 1.5
com.apple.driver.AppleHPET 1.7
com.apple.driver.AppleSMBIOS 1.9
com.apple.driver.AppleACPIEC 1.6
com.apple.driver.AppleAPIC 1.6
com.apple.driver.AppleIntelCPUPowerManagementClient 196.0.0
com.apple.nke.applicationfirewall 4.0.39
com.apple.security.quarantine 2
com.apple.driver.AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement 196.0.0
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBHIDDriver 5.2.5
com.apple.iokit.IOSCSIBlockCommandsDevice 3.5.1
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBMassStorageClass 3.5.0
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBMergeNub 5.2.5
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBComposite 5.2.5
com.apple.iokit.IOSCSIMultimediaCommandsDevice 3.5.1
com.apple.iokit.IOBDStorageFamily 1.7
com.apple.iokit.IODVDStorageFamily 1.7.1
com.apple.iokit.IOCDStorageFamily 1.7.1
com.apple.iokit.IOAHCISerialATAPI 2.5.0
com.apple.iokit.IOSCSIArchitectureModelFamily 3.5.1
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBUserClient 5.2.5
com.apple.iokit.IOFireWireFamily 4.5.5
com.apple.iokit.IO80211Family 500.15
com.apple.iokit.IOAHCIFamily 2.2.1
com.apple.iokit.IOEthernetAVBController 1.0.2b1
com.apple.iokit.IONetworkingFamily 3.0
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBFamily 5.4.0
com.apple.driver.AppleEFIRuntime 1.6.1
com.apple.iokit.IOHIDFamily 1.8.0
com.apple.iokit.IOSMBusFamily 1.1
com.apple.security.sandbox 220
com.apple.kext.AppleMatch 1.0.0d1
com.apple.security.TMSafetyNet 7
com.apple.driver.DiskImages 344
com.apple.iokit.IOStorageFamily 1.8
com.apple.driver.AppleKeyStore 28.21
com.apple.driver.AppleACPIPlatform 1.6
com.apple.iokit.IOPCIFamily 2.7.2
com.apple.iokit.IOACPIFamily 1.4
com.apple.kec.corecrypto 1.0
Model: iMac11,2, BootROM IM112.0057.B00, 2 processors, Intel Core i3, 3.2 GHz, 16 GB, SMC 1.64f5
Graphics: ATI Radeon HD 5670, ATI Radeon HD 5670, PCIe, 512 MB
Memory Module: BANK 0/DIMM1, 8 GB, DDR3, 1333 MHz, 0x029E, 0x434D5341384758334D314131333333433920
Memory Module: BANK 1/DIMM1, 8 GB, DDR3, 1333 MHz, 0x029E, 0x434D5341384758334D314131333333433920
AirPort: spairport_wireless_card_type_airport_extreme (0x168C, 0x8F), Atheros 9280: 4.0.70.23-P2P
Bluetooth: Version 4.0.9f33 10885, 2 service, 18 devices, 0 incoming serial ports
Network Service: AirPort, AirPort, en1
Serial ATA Device: ST31000528AS, 1 TB
Serial ATA Device: HL-DT-STDVDRW GA32N
USB Device: hub_device, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2514, 0xfd100000 / 2
USB Device: IR Receiver, apple_vendor_id, 0x8242, 0xfd120000 / 4
USB Device: Built-in iSight, apple_vendor_id, 0x8502, 0xfd110000 / 3
USB Device: hub_device, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2514, 0xfa100000 / 2
USB Device: BRCM2046 Hub, 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.), 0x4500, 0xfa110000 / 4
USB Device: Bluetooth USB Host Controller, apple_vendor_id, 0x8215, 0xfa111000 / 6
USB Device: Internal Memory Card Reader, apple_vendor_id, 0x8403, 0xfa120000 / 3There have been a few reports on here where Corsair RAM seems to have caused users a lot of grief with crashes.
The recommendation on here, mostly, is to only buy RAM from macsales.com or crucial.com as they guarantee their modules will work and offer a no quibble lifetime guarantee.
I'd put the original RAM back in, return the Corsair chips for a refund and re-order from one of those two companies.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/apple/memory/iMac
http://www.crucial.com/ -
Maximum RAM for Mid-2010 iMac 3.2GHz w/ Core i3 Processor?
I am looking to upgrade the RAM on my iMac. This is the first time I've ever done so and the reason for it is that I'm finally starting to experience some noticeable lag while playing games. I'm not a hardcore gamer by any means but I feel as though the kinds of games I play shouldn't be struggling so much to run. Some examples of games I've played that have had trouble include Amnesia: The Dark Descent and Left 4 Dead. These games came out a few years ago so it's not like I'm pushing the limits of my machine here! I've done quite a bit of research online but I've come across some conflicting reports on the maximum amount of RAM I can install.
Apple's support files state that the computer can hold up to 16GB of RAM, but then go on to state that this would be equivalent to a 4GB SO-DIMM in each slot. Is that because there are four total slots in my iMac? (See... I told you I'm new at this!)
At the same time, I've also read that it is possible to install up to 32GB of RAM in this particular model of iMac. Is this actually true?
Whichever the case may be... can anyone recommend some good, quality, dependable brands of RAM? Because in doing my research I've read a few horror stories about faulty RAM (and no... I'm not planning on shopping on eBay so don't worry!).
My final question is this: Is upping my RAM actually worth it? As in, will it help my games run smoother and/or better? I ask because I've also wondered if the video card might be the bigger problem (which I hope it's not because I have no idea if it's even possible to replace that).
Sorry for being so long-winded but I just really want to make sure I do this right and don't waste my money. Thank you in advance for any help! =)Your computer has 4 slots. When Apple shipped the computer the largest DIMM shipping was 4GB so Apple advertises 16GB as the max. According to OWC that remains the maximum for your computer, only the i5 and i7 models can be upgrade to 32GB. At this time 16GB should be plenty for most people.
There are a number of things that have an impact on speed and, of course, one of them is RAM. When your computer first came out the operating system you were using was less RAM hungry. It seems that each new upgrade (or every other OS upgrade) ups the RAM ante. Other things that have an impact are the utilities and programs you run behind the scenes. They can burn up lots of CPU cycles and RAM. Hard drive space is another factor - the operating system and programs need room for temporary files and when this room isn't available the computer slows down. So, are you running anything like anti-malware? Dump it, not needed. Do you have about 25GB of free drive space? If not, free some up.
Quality RAM - not only what you buy but who you buy it from is important. I go with Crucial or OWC. -
Hi all,
I got one basic question regarding SSIS 2010 Package where source is Microsoft Excel 97-2005. I wanted to know How this package works in production where there is no Microsoft office or Excel driver installed. To check that there is excel driver installed
or not, I followed steps: Start-->Administrative Tools--> Data Sources(ODBC)-->Drivers and I found only 2 drivers one is SQL Server and another one is SQL Server Native Client 11.0.
Windows edition is Windows Server 2008 R2 Enterprise, Service Pack-1 and System type is 64-bit Operating System.
We are running this package from SQL Server Agent and using 32-bit (\\Machine_Name\d$\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft SQL Server\110\DTS\Binn\DTExec.exe /FILE "\\Machine_Name\d$\ Folder_Name\EtL.dtsx" /CONFIGFILE "\\Machine_Name\d$\Folder_Name\Config.dtsConfig"
/MAXCONCURRENT " -1 " /CHECKPOINTING OFF /REPORTING E) to run this package. I opened the package and tried to find out what connection we have used and found that we have used "Excel Connection Manager" and ConnectionString=Provider=Microsoft.Jet.OLEDB.4.0;Data
Source=F:\Fares.xls;Extended Properties="EXCEL 8.0;HDR=YES"; and source is ‘Excel Source’
I discussed with my DBA and He said that SSIS is having inbuilt Excel driver but I am not convinced.
Could anyone please clear my confusion/doubt?
I have gone through various links but my doubt is still not clear.
Quick Reference:
SSIS in 32- and 64-bits
http://toddmcdermid.blogspot.com.au/2009/10/quick-reference-ssis-in-32-and-64-bits.html
Why do I get "product level is insufficient..." error when I run my SSIS package?
http://blogs.msdn.com/b/michen/archive/2006/11/11/ssis-product-level-is-insufficient.aspx
How to run SSIS Packages using 32-bit drivers on 64-bit machine
http://help.pragmaticworks.com/dtsxchange/scr/FAQ%20-%20How%20to%20run%20SSIS%20Packages%20using%2032bit%20drivers%20on%2064bit%20machine.htm
Troubleshooting OLE DB Provider Microsoft.ACE.OLEDB.12.0 is not registered Error when importing data from an Excel 2007 file to SQL Server 2008
http://www.mytechmantra.com/LearnSQLServer/Troubleshoot_OLE_DB_Provider_Error_P1.html
How Can I Get a List of the ODBC Drivers that are Installed on a Computer?
http://blogs.technet.com/b/heyscriptingguy/archive/2005/07/07/how-can-i-get-a-list-of-the-odbc-drivers-that-are-installed-on-a-computer.aspx
Thanks Shiven:) If Answer is Helpful, Please VoteHi S Kumar Dubey,
In SSIS, the Excel Source and Excel Destination natively use the Microsoft Jet 4.0 OLE DB Provider which is installed by SQL Server. The Microsoft Jet 4.0 OLE DB Provider deals with .xls files created by Excel 97-2003. To deal with .xlsx files created by
Excel 2007, we need the Microsoft ACE OLEDB Provider. SQL Server doesn’t install the Microsoft ACE OLEDB Provider, to get it we can install the
2007 Office System Driver: Data Connectivity Components or
Microsoft Access Database Engine 2010 Redistributable or Microsoft Office suit.
The drivers listed in the ODBC Data Source Administrator are ODBC drivers not OLEDB drivers, therefore, the Excel Source/Destination in SSIS won’t use the ODBC driver for Excel listed in it by default. On a 64-bit Windows platform, there are two versions
of ODBC Data Source Administrator. The 64-bit ODBC Data Source Administrator is C:\Windows\System32\odbcad32.exe, while the 32-bit one is C:\Windows\SysWOW64\odbcad32.exe. The original 32-bit and 64-bit ODBC drivers are installed by the Windows operating system.
By default, there are multiple 32-bit ODBC drivers and fewer 64-bit ODBC drivers installed on a 64-bit platform. To get more ODBC drivers, we can install the 2007 Office System Driver: Data Connectivity Components or Microsoft Access Database Engine 2010 Redistributable.
Besides, please note that 2007 Office System Driver: Data Connectivity Components only install 32-bit ODBC and OLEDB drivers because it only has 32-bit version, but the Microsoft Access Database Engine 2010 Redistributable has both 32- bit version and 64-bit
version.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Regards,
Mike Yin
TechNet Community Support -
27" imac i7 16GB RAM mid-2010 turns off randomly
I've done a lot of reading on the existing posts, and so far no real solutions except for removing RAM. I have 27" imac with APPLE-INSTALLED 16GB RAM. It is a mid-2010 imac model 11,3.
The random shutdowns don't seem to correlate to particular apps or usage. They started a few weeks ago with shutdowns once in a week or so, and now are happening about 3 times a day.
What I've tried so far:
- installed istatpro temperature dashboard thing & smcFanControl. I've been monitoring HD and CPU temps and turning up the fans to keep CPU under 110 degrees F. Did not fix it.
- reset SMC; did not fix it.
- zapped PRAM; did not fix it.
I see from other threads that others are having the same problem. The next thing I am going to try is removing RAM. I'll report back in the next few days what I discover.It's a new machine and still under warranty. Why are you bothering to play with it? Get straight onto Apple and take it back before you do something that voids your warranty.
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I want to install some new RAM in my 2010 imac, and test it. On Mountion Lion, the hardware test does not run when pressing ctrl+d or holding down the d key. Also, booting memtest from dvd does not work, it is simply ignored? Is there a way of testing RAM?
See http://https://discussions.apple.com/message/20014699#20014699 for starters. As for memtest, use Rember.
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27" 2010 iMac 16gb RAM...still swapping?
I upgraded my 27" 2010 iMac (quad core i7) to 16gb RAM, and some things are a bit faster e.g. photoshop. But perhaps it wasn't the noticeable speed boost I was expecting. Also, I can definitely hear a lot of swapping out to virtual memory happening at times. On startup it happens a lot. I can't believe it's going beyond 16gb in terms of memory requirements just to start up. The "About this mac" info panel shows that it has definitely recognised all 16gb memory.
Am I imagining things re the swapping? Do I have anything to be concerned about? What tests can I do to ensure that this is as fast as it should be and that it's not dodgy hardware or something? Any comments appreciated.
cheers,
IanOpen your Activity Monitor.
Mac OS X: Reading system memory usage in Activity Monitor
There you can see System Memory (Usage, Swaping, VM, etc.) plus Disk Activity and CPU Usage.
What Is Activity Monitor (or How to Take Your Mac's Pulse) - O'Reilly Media -
ANOTHER Question about my iMac G3. Mac OS X and RAM
Hey, I have ANOTHER question about my iMac G3.
I know that I'm supposed to have the latest firmware updates for my iMac G3 running OS 8.1, which I do, but I read some where these firmware updates could only be updated if you're running OS 9.2. Yet when I run the firmware updater, it says my firmware is up to date. I just wanted to make sure this was correct because I just ordered an OS X 10.2 CD today, and I don't want my mac to be "dead" when I install it.
My next question is how much RAM can my mac hold. It's an iMac G3 with a 233 mhz processor, if that makes a differemce.
Again, thanks to the people who have helped me with my first Mac.hi there--
unfortunately you require system 9.1 or 9.2 for the required firmware update 1.2 for your computer http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86117. so you'll have to install that if you want to install 10.2. it may work for you for a little while, but then you could possibly lose all your information. so i wouldn't advise attempting installing 10.2 without the correct firmware. [ : ) ] -
Will old Canopus ADVC-100 work on 2010 imac?
HI There
I am running 10.6.8, have a 2010 imac 27" with 8gb ram
I want to start importing my video footage into either imovie or FCP connecting an old VHS to my Canopus ADVC-100 and then the Canopus to the mac
I am guessing i just need a firewire converter or something? Can someone advise which cable i need?
The Canopus has the small and normal firewire ports of the past (see manual here: http://finearts.uvic.ca/sim/equipment/manuals/_av_convert/advc100.pdf)
I haven't had any need for this new firewire port on the back and wondered if i invested in a firewire converter it would work or whether the hardware is too old for the imac?
Sorry if this is a daft question
regards..I'm not sure why there would be conflicts. The ouput of the ADVC is pure DV video, that's the beauty of the ADVC, it doesn't need any proprietary drivers or capture applications like most USB solutions do, so it isn't really OS dependent in any way. As long as your application understands DV cameras you should be OK. I've used my ADVC-55 with Snow Leopard before and am now using it with Lion, with iMovie.
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Several questions regarding File Vault
Hi!
I have several questions regarding File Vault - right now I'm using Mac OS 10.4.8
1.: The battery lock of my iBook is defect thus it happens from time to time that while transporting it the battery drops out while the laptop is sleeping. What happens with the File Vault-disk image?
2.: I want to (have to ) set up my Intel iMac again. The installer-CD I have will bring it back to 10.4.6
AFAIK the data format used for File Vault since 10.4.7 is version 2. What happens if I encrypt my stuff now (10.4.8 - thus version 2), back it up to my backup disc, install a new system (10.4.6 - therefore version 1) and want to access my data via Migration Manager (don't want to use archive and install)?
3.: How do I actually do a backup of my data while the system is running? The backup should be encrypted as well.
I use the demo-version of SuperDuper for backing up my system because with it I can ensure that I have a complete bootable backup of my running system.
Thanks for your answers in advance
ibook g4 12" 1.2 GHz 768 MB RAM / Intel iMac Core 2 Duo 17" 2.0 GHz 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.8)Parker,
You said:1. If it did, Apple would not use FileVault, as everyones computer will have a battery problem once in their life, and Apple would lose buisness from angry people who lost all of their data.I have seen enough reports of data loss with FileVault that I feel compelled to dispute your statement.
In Data corruption and loss: causes and avoidance, Dr. Smoke writes...If your data-security needs demand FileVault, you should backup your encrypted Home folder regularly, preferably daily. Like any hard drive or disk image, a Home folder protected by FileVault — an encrypted, sparse disk image — does not respond well to the causes of data corruption...Loss of power definitely is a cause of data corruption.
For Niels....,
An Unencrypted Look at FileVault, by François Joseph de Kermadec is an excellent discussion of the features, pitfalls, and cautions regarding Filevault.
Although the article discusses Panther and is dated 12/19/2003, the concepts as they apply Tiger have not changed.
The cautions and warnings are prominent in any of the Apple Knowledge Base articles referring to the use of FileVault. If a user is unfamiliar with any aspect of FileVault, it should not in my opinion be activated.
As good as FileVault is in protecting your sensitive data, it also presents the danger of locking up your files in an irretrievable ball of one's and zero's. Backups are critical. You must ensure that you have a comprehensive backup plan. Backup and Recovery, by Dr. Smoke is a fine example of what you need to consider.
;~) -
I have a mid-2010 iMac and just purchased a 2TB TC, I just found out that it can't join existing wireless network with new AC standard so attached to iMac via ethernet with TC's wifi turned off. How do i access TC now? not showing up in disk utility or on desktop. It is working fine with TM. My cheeper seagate drives etc kept crashing, so i didnt trust cheeper back up options anymore. Connected those drives to TM via firewire and could see the drives and access them.
Also, I didn't want to bridge TC with my new fios router that I paid 100 dollars for, to get N speed and also paying 10 dollars more a month for fast speed. I heard that bridging slows down everything and then there can be port issues with mail etc. I connect to the internet via airport only and it is pretty fast. Getting over 50mbs downloads and over 30mbs uploads. Plus everything in my home it connected to my fios router, airport express for music streaming, two apple tvs, vuezone camer system. I really didn't want to monkey around too much with my system. But are there other options to connect the new TC. Can't find info anywhere for this and called apple who gave me the info above. after hanging up, i see that i cant access my TC and I am wondering if i would have to reset it to turn wifi on again to make changes to the drive, turn off blinking light or repair it in disk utility if it should become corrupted.
For other with similar issues i did solve some other problems: when i connected it to my ethernet port on my iMac wifi stopped working. Found that I had to turn off the ethernet in the system>network screen, but then TM didn't see the TC so i restarted after changes and then it saw it.
Now a rant. I can't believe in this wireless age that Apple would make a product that cant join a wireless net work. The apple rep said i could return it and look for the previous TC that would join an existing wireless network. Are we going backwards?
Thanks!
lennydasOk... it is getting a bit clearer but there are still some questions.
I connect to the internet via airport only and it is pretty fast.
I was assuming airport in this statement in your first post meant the TC or the Express.. but I now realise we are still in the mass confusion stage where apple calls everything wireless an airport. So what you mean is the airport internal card of the computer??
Also, I didn't want to bridge TC with my new fios router that I paid 100 dollars for, to get N speed and also paying 10 dollars more a month for fast speed. I heard that bridging slows down everything and then there can be port issues with mail etc.
I think this is mistaken.
Putting the TC in bridge mode plugged into your FIOS will not slow the network.. nor will it cause mail or port issues.. in bridge the TC is just a fancy WAP and switch plus the network hard drive.
If the computer is close it will be faster than the FIOS.
You can run both wireless networks with different names.. so it is clear which is which. But you can also setup roaming so the computers themselves pick which is the best wireless.
I tried extending the wireless net work and tried joining wireless network, but the TC kept crashing and I had to keep resetting the TC. the Apple support person said these, extend wireless network and joint wireless network, are no longer a connection option with the new TC because of the new AC protocol.
Thanks again!
You cannot extend to a non-apple wireless router.
You cannot use join a wireless network because when you do the ethernet ports will be cut off.
But that has not changed.. I don't think Apple support is correct.. there has been no change with the AC model.. it is simply a fact that apple routers do not work in join wireless mode other than as a dumb client. The same applies to AC as to the earlier version.. but I have asked another person to check this.
Join in the express is the only apple router that still allows an ethernet connection.
For now you best use of the TC is bridged to the FIOS. Wireless you can sort out between several options. -
Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual Cable/Adapter for mid-2010 iMac?
Hi . . .
Sorry to pester with a question that's been covered from various angles before, but I'm new to the Mac world. Am a musician in BC, Canada doing a project remotely with people in Ontario. Decided to ditch my PC-based recording rig and went with a 2010 iMac and Logic Pro X (hallelujah!) because the other people are using Logic Pro X. So . . . I'm just learning the ropes.
Anyway . . . I have a spare monitor I want to run in dual setup extended desktop, and I'm not 100% certain of the cable and/or adapter I'll need. I'm also not sure why the adapters are bigger and seem to contain more internal components, whereas the cables just look like a simple "Plug 1" connected to "Plug 2" cable in a variety of lengths (in the same way you'd have a XLR to 1/4" phono cable).
Here's the info on my system, and any help would be greatly appreciated (will a cable suffice or do I need an separate adapter, DVI type, etc).
My iMac (mid-2010 21" Core i3 with Firewire running Moutain Lion 10.8.5):
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac-core-i3-3.06-21-inch-alumi num-mid-2010-specs.html
My monitor I want use as an extended desktop (Acer 22" X223W LCD):
http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/acer-x223w-lcd-monitor/4507-3174_7-32627876 .html
So, it appears I'll need a male Mini DisplayPort to a male DVI-D Dual adapter and/or cable. Do I need to specifically buy a DVI-D Dual cable? Will a simple cable function properly or do I also need an adapter? I'm pretty sure a DVI-I cable won't work because it would have extra pins that aren't present in the DVI-D.
Thanks again . . . the assistance is appreciated.
Suds . . .You are overthinking this.
"DVI dual link support" is concerned about the resolution of the display, not the number of displays. A dual-link adapter or cable basically has double the number of wires to carry extra data to support higher resolutions than a single-link cable. Of course, both the computer and the external display must also support the higher resolutions in order to take advantage of the capabilities of dual-link.
You want to use two displays ... your iMac's buit-in display + your Acer display as a second monitor (what you called "dual monitors"). You can do this, as I explained earlier.
Your Acer monitor's maxiumum resolution of 1680 x 1050 is not high enough to require a dual-link connection.
"In single-link mode, the maximum pixel clock frequency is 165 MHz that supports a maximum resolution of 2.75 megapixels (including blanking interval) at 60 Hz refresh. For practical purposes, this allows a maximum 16:9 screen resolution of 1920 × 1080 at 60 Hz (1915 × 1436 at a 4:3 ratio).
To support higher-resolution display devices, the DVI specification contains a provision for dual link. Dual-link DVI doubles the number of TMDS pairs, effectively doubling the video bandwidth. As a result, higher resolutions up to 2560 × 1600 are supported at 60 Hz [via dual-link DVI]." (See Digital Visual Interface, Wikipedia)
You can connect almost any VGA, DVI or HDMI display to your iMac, using the appropriate cable and/or adapter. Of course, you always have to make sure that your cable has the correct gender plug on each end. The Apple adapter I recommended has a female connector, so you will need a cable with a male DVI-D plug on one end. As for the other end of the cable, check the input on your Acer display to see what it has and select a cable that has an appropriate gender connector on the end that will plug into your Acer monitor.
In extended desktop mode, you can set separate (independent) resolutions for your iMac display and your external Acer display, taking advantage of the maximum resolution of each. (For example, that's why the MacBookPro example you cited works, it's because that model MacBook Pro can support higher resolutions on an external display than it's built-in LCD panel can.) -
I have some questions regarding setting up a software RAID 0 on a Mac Pro
I have some questions regarding setting up a software RAID 0 on a Mac pro (early 2009).
These questions might seem stupid to many of you, but, as my last, in fact my one and only, computer before the Mac Pro was a IICX/4/80 running System 7.5, I am a complete novice regarding this particular matter.
A few days ago I installed a WD3000HLFS VelociRaptor 300GB in bay 1, and moved the original 640GB HD to bay 2. I now have 2 bootable internal drives, and currently I am using the VR300 as my startup disk. Instead of cloning from the original drive, I have reinstalled the Mac OS, and all my applications & software onto the VR300. Everything is backed up onto a WD SE II 2TB external drive, using Time Machine. The original 640GB has an eDrive partition, which was created some time ago using TechTool Pro 5.
The system will be used primarily for photo editing, digital imaging, and to produce colour prints up to A2 size. Some of the image files, from scanned imports of film negatives & transparencies, will be 40MB or larger. Next year I hope to buy a high resolution full frame digital SLR, which will also generate large files.
Currently I am using Apple's bundled iPhoto, Aperture 2, Photoshop Elements 8, Silverfast Ai, ColorMunki Photo, EZcolor and other applications/software. I will also be using Photoshop CS5, when it becomes available, and I will probably change over to Lightroom 3, which is currently in Beta, because I have had problems with Aperture, which, until recent upgrades (HD, RAM & graphics card) to my system, would not even load images for print. All I had was a blank preview page, and a constant, frozen "loading" message - the symbol underneath remained static, instead of revolving!
It is now possible to print images from within Aperture 2, but I am not happy with the colour fidelity, whereas it is possible to produce excellent, natural colour prints using its "minnow" sibling, iPhoto!
My intention is to buy another 3 VR300s to form a 4 drive Raid 0 array for optimum performance, and to store the original 640GB drive as an emergency bootable back-up. I would have ordered the additional VR300s already, but for the fact that there appears to have been a run on them, and currently they are out of stock at all, but the more expensive, UK resellers.
I should be most grateful to receive advice regarding the following questions:
QUESTION 1:
I have had a look at the RAID setting up facility in Disk Utility and it states: "To create a RAID set, drag disks or partitions into the list below".
If I install another 3 VR300s, can I drag all 4 of them into the "list below" box, without any risk of losing everything I have already installed on the existing VR300?
Or would I have to reinstall the OS, applications and software again?
I mention this, because one of the applications, Personal accountz, has a label on its CD wallet stating that the Licence Key can only be used once, and I have already used it when I installed it on the existing VR300.
QUESTION 2:
I understand that the failure of just one drive will result in all the data in a Raid 0 array being lost.
Does this mean that I would not be able to boot up from the 4 drive array in that scenario?
Even so, it would be worth the risk to gain the optimum performance provide by Raid 0 over the other RAID setup options, and, in addition to the SE II, I will probably back up all my image files onto a portable drive as an additional precaution.
QUESTION 3:
Is it possible to create an eDrive partition, using TechTool Pro 5, on the VR300 in bay !?
Or would this not be of any use anyway, in the event of a single drive failure?
QUESTION 4:
Would there be a significant increase in performance using a 4 x VR300 drive RAID 0 array, compared to only 2 or 3 drives?
QUESTION 5:
If I used a 3 x VR300 RAID 0 array, and installed either a cloned VR300 or the original 640GB HD in bay 4, and I left the Startup Disk in System Preferences unlocked, would the system boot up automatically from the 4th. drive in the event of a single drive failure in the 3 drive RAID 0 array which had been selected for startup?
Apologies if these seem stupid questions, but I am trying to determine the best option without foregoing optimum performance.Well said.
Steps to set up RAID
Setting up a RAID array in Mac OS X is part of the installation process. This procedure assumes that you have already installed Mac OS 10.1 and the hard drive subsystem (two hard drives and a PCI controller card, for example) that RAID will be implemented on. Follow these steps:
1. Open Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities).
2. When the disks appear in the pane on the left, select the disks you wish to be in the array and drag them to the disk panel.
3. Choose Stripe or Mirror from the RAID Scheme pop-up menu.
4. Name the RAID set.
5. Choose a volume format. The size of the array will be automatically determined based on what you selected.
6. Click Create.
Recovering from a hard drive failure on a mirrored array
1. Open Disk Utility in (/Applications/Utilities).
2. Click the RAID tab. If an issue has occurred, a dialog box will appear that describes it.
3. If an issue with the disk is indicated, click Rebuild.
4. If Rebuild does not work, shut down the computer and replace the damaged hard disk.
5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
6. Drag the icon of the new disk on top of that of the removed disk.
7. Click Rebuild.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2559
Drive A + B = VOLUME ONE
Drive C + D = VOLUME TWO
What you put on those volumes is of course up to you and easy to do.
A system really only needs to be backed up "as needed" like before you add or update or install anything.
/Users can be backed up hourly, daily, weekly schedule
Media files as needed.
Things that hurt performance:
Page outs
Spotlight - disable this for boot drive and 'scratch'
SCRATCH: Temporary space; erased between projects and steps.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/StandardRAIDlevels
(normally I'd link to Wikipedia but I can't load right now)
Disk drives are the slowest component, so tackling that has always made sense. Easy way to make a difference. More RAM only if it will be of value and used. Same with more/faster processors, or graphic card.
To help understand and configure your 2009 Nehalem Mac Pro:
http://arstechnica.com/apple/reviews/2009/04/266ghz-8-core-mac-pro-review.ars/1
http://macperformanceguide.com/
http://www.macgurus.com/guides/storageaccelguide.php
http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/harddrives/index.html
http://macperformanceguide.com/OptimizingPhotoshop-Configuration.html
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/404/kb404440.html
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