Questions on scanning negatives?

I thought I'd post a new thread, as had some remaining questions and didn't want to hijack someone else's thread.
I'm embarking on scanning in all my previous 35mm colour negatives, and have so far learnt quite a lot both from experimentation and from reading threads on this forum.
Whilst I know there is no black and white answer to these questions I'd love to hear other peoples views based on their experiences and expertise:
1. What colour depth are people using . 48-bit or 24-bit ?
2. I have Epson V500 which has digital ICE technology for dust removal. It increases the scan time a fair amount and even the manufactures instructions recommend using only on frames that you want to improve due to this increased time. The problem is I want to set up a bit of a 'production line' so I can just get downs to scanning rather than inspecting each image as I scan. The question is : Is it better to do the dust removal at the physical scan stage or is it possible to achieve the same result with Photoshop? I've just had a quick play with Photoshop (never used it before) and the Reduce Dust and Scratches filter didn't seem particularly good doing this for a whole image?
3. As I'm no David Bailey, am I wasting my time (or rather Hard Drive) with TIFF files rather than Jpegs? As a point of reference, all my recent photography has been done on a Canon EOS350D which takes beautiful images that I'm proud of, but I store these as Jpegs (approx 3200x2200 3MB) so it's probably overkill to store my less quality film scans as TIFFs?
That said, I have plenty of external HDD's so as long as iPhoto is just as happy with external drives of TIFF's it's not a problem for me.
Anyway, many thanks for any hints & suggestions.
Dan.

Dan:
I would go without the dust removal (use a can of compressed air to clean the negative strip first) and use Photoshop for the touchup work. I use the clone tool and the Spot Healing Brush to fix blemishes. Granted it's more labor intensive but it would depend on how many of the negatives are needing touchup and how much time you have. If only a few then scan without.
If the ICE feature also fixes scratches and other blemished and you find you need it then you can switch to it. Unless your work is for professional use I'd go for 24 bit color and JPG format. Once you get the jpg file onto the HD and into iPhoto it will be preserved as it was scanned as a "digital negative". If you plan of doing a lot of editing of one file then create a psd file of it and use photoshop on duplicate layers. That way you can have multiple versions in one file.
When I retired I went on a binge of scanning over 5000 photos and 5000 slides. It took me 5 years to complete. I've learned a lot since then. My slide scanner was a one trick pony and when I was done I had a nice door stop. The new flat bed scanners do slides and negatives very nicely and can scan multiples of each and create separate files for each (my Canon does that).
However, as I'm sure you already know or have been told, put into place an efficient backup strategy. It's very important.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.≤br>
Note: There now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

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Hi Dave,
This is quite strange. There is as such no limit to the size of the scanned image.
To isolate the problem, can you please try this?
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Do you still get the same error?
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When I try to scan negative to file the program returns extended error info :4,[(2,6,8004005),(3,6,0)].
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Hello Gennady01111952, and welcome to the HP Forums.
I am sorry, but to get your issue more exposure I would suggest posting it in the commercial forums since this is a commercial product. You can do this at HP Commercial Scanjet Forums.
I hope this helps!
Please click “Accept as Solution " if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks" for helping!
Jamieson
I work on behalf of HP
"Remember, I'm pulling for you, we're all in this together!" - Red Green.

HP Scanjet G4050 won't scan negatives or or individual pictures Windows 8.1

I have an HP Scanjet G4050 that will not scan negatives or individual pictures. It worked great with my Windows XP.

Hi,
Please try for Windows 8:
HP Scanjet G4050 Photo Scanner
Otherwise, well - use a computer with older Operating system to scan.
Regards.
BH
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Color Cast Strips in a Scanned Negative

I have scanned negatives that show a couple of subtle color cast stripes. In corrected space these show up as yellow, but in negative space they are only in the blue channel. The stripes seem to be on the negative and not a scanner artifact.
Can photoshop mask for these areas and correct the color ?

Some cross-posting here while I typed up mine (I didn't see Trevor's posts), but I didn't have time to comment further.
Yes, scanned negatives can be a nightmare. I would never attempt to batch that, I just do the most important ones individually and put the rest back in storage. It's just too much work. However:
If you have many negatives taken at the same time that show these color bands, you can use the same adjustment layer(s) on all of them. The adjustment layer can simply be dragged from the layers panel over to the next photo; or you can make a preset. If it's a single roll of film you may not even have to redo the mask.
Another advantage of "painting in" the adjustment is that if you overdo it you can press X and paint back very easily. The example you posted took only a couple of minutes, with two layers - one plus blue to kill the yellow, and then one minus blue for the excess blue on the right.

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NB Bogdan Hrastnik has developed a Windows GUI wrapper for ExifTool available here: http://u88.n24.queensu.ca/~bogdan/
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Thanks to you all :-)
I have tried tese methods and they works fine - but it is only the capture time I can change, not the METADATA date.
But at least I can now sort the photos, tested some.
In the LIBRARY view I chose Metadata (Library filter) and then 'date'.
The photos were sorted by the captured date.
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Hans-P.

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Hi,
I'm using Lightroom for processing and cataloging scans of both old slides and even older prints, and find it very convenient to use. Firstly the develop capabilities are pretty good for adjusting white balance and tone curve either on individual images or batch processing (e.g. correcting a magenta cast or skylight haze on a whole box of slides in one go). My slide scanner does a decent job of auto cropping the slides though I imagine LR would be good for this if not, however I do have to manually crop and straighten scans of prints from my flatbed scanner, and the lightroom UI seems to me to be good for that also.
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I think Lightroom is also very good for the task due to the integrated nature of the DAM and Develop tools - it doesn't force you into a fixed sequence of working (such as having to do developing before cataloging and other metadata operations or vice versa).
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RJP

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Found this, it worked.
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I'm now starting to use iPhoto exclusively as my photo library - (previously I would store raw files in folders - but starting to use the iphone daily to take pics makes the upgrade a no-brainer)
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since this forum is for troubleshooting Apple Software Update for Windows, a software package for Windows designed to update Apple products that run on Windows, and not related to Mac software, you should probably post your question in the OS X forums.
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¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
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This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
From the following manuals, I can't see this option:
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nothing from the online guide:
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nothing mentioned in the following reviews:
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Regards.
BH
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Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

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Is this what you need?
Attachments:
SNAG-002.jpg ‏91 KB
SNAG-003.jpg ‏20 KB

Questions on scanning negatives?

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