Raw vs jpg?

my photos were shot in raw and open as jpgs in camera raw and photoshop cs6. can anyone help? camera is a canon eos rebel xsi
Message was edited by: camerashygirltx

camerashygirltx wrote:
the setting on my Canon Digital Rebel xsi is the L setting, which is RAW
L is high quality JPG
RAW and RAW+L will give you RAW.
Check p.64 of the manual

Similar Messages

Lost metadata in file after attempt to Save RAW As JPG in PS CS3

Someone in other place in this Forum advised me that this will be probably more appropriate place to ask these questions, so I will give it a go. Below is a copy of my post on PS Windows thread (well, two posts really edited into one):
Hi,
I have just found out that after I open RAW pictures from my Canon 5D (but same happens with pictures from Canon 10D) in PS and than try to save them as JPGs, I loose majority of my metadata from the files (after right click on filename in. I can still Windows Explorer and clicking Properties or simply adding additional columns in Win XP Windows Explorer detailed view.
So same picture, without any editing at all, just opened as RAW file (which it is a CR2 or CRW file in Canons), and then saved as JPG, suddenly does not show the date of picture taken, focal length or exposure time are all gone. Does not matter if I try Properties in Win Explorer or say Properties in MS Office Picture Manager.
Was trying to look for any setting in PS that would set the ability to save or abandon saving of this type of information in JPG file but could not find anything of this kind.
What is interesting I went back to my pictures I have saved from RAW to JPG using same PS years ago, and I this was not a problem. Everything was saving OK.
So in summary:
1. This would not be a problem related to camera (it is unlikely that same problem would occur on two different models at the same time - even though both are Canons)
2. It must be a way to force the Photoshop to do that, I f I was able to do it successfully, almost without knowing, before.
Therefore, I would think that either:
1. There is some set of defaults somewhere in PS that I have accidently turned off causing my PS not to save this metadata properly or in full, or
2. That it came as some kind of bug with some of the updates to PS CS3 that I was getting over last year from Adobe.
Has any one else encountered similar problem? If yes, what did you do to resolve this issue?
I will be very grateful for any help, as I am not a frequent user of Adobe Photoshop and may just not be very familiar with the part that regulates that type of issues.
And I do not use the Save for Web option.
I just used (in PS CS3 running on Win XP Professional with SP3) the Save As from File menu.
What is also strange is that if I use File - Open command and get the first window with Open dialog box, where you have some basic options for opening/converting RAW format pictures (this window does not come up when I open JPG files) and I use existing there button to Save (which does not actually allow to do any editing of the picture before such way of saving) all Camera Properties, or that metadata, is actually saved into the newly created JPG quite correctly.
However if I use button Open in that conversion dialog box, and than save already opened RAW file as JPG, the majority of that data is gone (date picture taken, exposure time, aperture, focal length, exposure compensation steps etc).
I can see that RAW file has all this in the sections called EXIF and XMP (under File - File Information) but Save As does not add this info in the JPG files for some reason.

No, not really, because I ma not sure what it is for.
I just used (in PS CS3 running on Win XP Proffessional) the Save As from File menu.
What is also strange is that if I use Open command and get the first window with Open dialog box, where you have some basic options for opening/converting RAW format pictures (this window does not come up when I open JPG files) and I use existing there option to Save (which does not actually allow to do any editing of the picture before such way of saving) the all Camera Properties, or that metadata is actually saved into the newly created JPG.However if i use button Open in that conversion dialog box, and than save as JPG, the majority of that dtata is gone (date picture taken, exposure time, aperture, focal lenght, exposure compensation steps etc).
I can see that RAW file has all this in the sections called EXIF and XMP (under File - File Information) but Save As does not add this info in the JPG files for some reason.

Bridge cs4 can not open raw and jpg directly by itself

i never did it! i want to open raw and jpg files by camera raw directly with open photoshop. i have made the choose to open by double click in the preference but still can not do.
my brother's computer can open both of them and we are similar xp system.
and i have checked and reinstalled many times and still failed.

A bit of magic (if I'd remember):
1. open PS, from here File > Browse in Bridge
2. open any RAW/DNG - it goes to PS
3. switch to Bridge window (PS still open)
4. R-click, select "open in Camera RAW"
5. Close all
Now opening in Bridge should work :)
Chris

Multiple Black and white conversion from raw or jpgs

Hi All
Any help would be appreciated.
I have 300 wedding images taken on raw and jpg. I now want to convert them all to black and white. Any way I can do this without doing it one at a time (whether using raw or jpg files)?
Hope someone has the answer or else I need to fork out £500 for CS4!!
Clive

Hi
Thanks for reply. I am able to open and convert from raw ok, what I don’t know if I can do is process multiple files that have been changed, i.e. to black and white?
I don’t think PE8 will actually do this.
Clive Wilkinson
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Images as RAW and jpgs - how to separate?

I shoot both RAW and jpg, that way I have the RAW for detailed editing, and the jpg for quick edits to post on web, as required, or to send a quick copy to friends. I will probably stop this (shooting both) when I get used to editing RAW, but that is part of my evolution and growth in developing my skills in my digital darkroom.
When I first started with LR, I was using the Beta 2 version and simply imported my PS Elements 8 Catalog and that worked okay, because both versions of the image were imported so that I could see both of them and then pick the image I wanted for further editing. I have now upgraded to the new, full version of LR3 and have just downloaded my first set of images from a weekend of shooting - went looking for bluebirds and only found one nesting box with an active pair in it. I will go back for more in a day or so - more images that is. It is strange how the population of nesting bluebirds in my part of the Western Prairies has declined significantly in the past five years, but that is a whole, different story, Anyway to proceed...I downloaded the images from this afternoon's shoot and found that the RAW image (Canon - CR2) and the jpeg show as one image with a title that says IMG_xxxxx.CR2+jpg. I would like to be able to break the two different images out, or at least get at each one separately for editing purposes. For the life of me, I cannot figure this one out. I am still waiting for Kelby's LR3 book that I pre-ordered...maybe this week. Not sure if that will tell me how to do this, assuming I can. If I can't do this, then I will have to import into Elements 8 and then re-import that file into LR3 - a process I would rather not have to do.
Any insight that anyone can provide on how to do this (I assume it can be done) will be greatly appreciated. Maybe it is something as simple as a "switch" on an import preset, or setting up a "custom" import preset (if there is such a thing). Thanks in advance.
Regards,
WesternGuy

Susan, thanks for the insight. I think I will follow your lead and delete the images from my catalog and re-import them. Hopefully I can find the options that you have noted. It would be nice, though, if there was a way to break them apart after loading, but at least I don't have too many to redo.
Regards,
WesternGuy

Last wish, preset converting RAW into JPG with more contrast, saturation & sharpening

A close family member is dying and she has still many RAW files, which of course look slightly lifeless as all RAW files do. She asked me to look for a simple Lightroom preset which will convert her RAWs into Jpgs with more contrast, saturation and sharpening. She has Lightroom 3, but has no experience in making presets and neither do I. She needs the preset to make the RAW files as Jpgs available to her partner & children. No fancy effects; just simple. She cannot work on her computer anymore. Can you help me with a concrete preset or if not can you make one for her?

This forum is for plugin developers - consider posting in 'Photoshop Lightroom' forum instead (at top of page, New -> Discussion -> Photoshop Lightroom).

Question about RAW to JPG file sizes

Hello all, I have a question/concern in reference to file size changes when converting from RAW to JPG formats in PSE6. I've recently purchased a CANON 50D, and have started shooting in RAW format (actually RAW2+JPG). I have the CAMERA RAW 5.2 plugin and my workflow process is something akin to this:
1. Separate all RAW and JPG images into their respective folders.
2. Open the RAW folder in BRIDGE, and then open up a CR2 file. CR2 file is approx 15MB at this point, as reported in Finder.
3. Perform various corrections in ACR52 to the file, then do as SAVE AS to a DNG file.
4. Next step is to OPEN IMAGE, bringing it up in PSE6.
5. Make any necessary corrections to the picture, and then do a SAVE AS to a new file name and folder, selecting JPG format.
6. Selection MAX QUALITY from subsequent dialogue box, and SAVE.
When the file is saved, its now down to a mere 2.1 or 2.2MB, and when viewing its properties (vs. the same file that came from camera in JPG format), its down from a 44x66" format, to somewhere around 4x6" and 240dpi.
I've been doing some reading on this over the weekend, but cant explain away the severe loss in file size, and whether this is right, or if I'm doing something wrong in the process.
Appreciate any advice or suggestions to help improve my work processes, and ultimately the final photos!

Regarding your file size questions, have a look at this thread and see if it answers some of your questions:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/741532/0
> When the file is saved, its now down to a mere 2.1 or 2.2MB, and when viewing its properties (vs. the same file that came from camera in JPG format), its down from a 44x66" format, to somewhere around 4x6" and 240dpi.
Dimensions and resolution are related and multiple combinations can be produced from the same number of pixels. For example, your 50D at maximum image size produces 4,752 by 3,168 pixels. This full-size image could be printed at:
- 19.8 x 13.2 inches at 240 PPI
- 47.52 x 31.68 inches at 100 PPI
- 7.92 x 5.28 inches at 600 PPI
As you can maybe see, talking about dimensions and resolution doesn't make much sense until you are ready to consider printing. Note also that I used "PPI" or Pixels Per Inch since this is the slightly more correct terminology. DPI or "Dots Per Inch" is usually a reference to how a printer lays down the ink drops onto the paper. Many printers actually put more "dots" on the paper than there are pixels. Many people and companies use DPI when they mean PPI.
Now in your case you are apparently starting with an SRAW2 raw file. SRAW2 files from the 50D have a reduced number of pixels and are 2,276 pixels wide by 1,584 pixels high. At 240 PPI this would allow you to print the image at 9.9 by 6.6 inches. If you are ending up with something smaller than that, it means you have either re-sampled the image (changed the image so the same image is displayed with fewer pixels) or you have cropped the image.
Hope that helps.

Raw and jpg as one in Lightroom 3 second try.

When I import the pictures from my camera I get my raw and jpg together as one image. But the pictures I already have in Lightroom 3 are divided into separate folders and show up as separate pictures. Is it possible to merge the raw and jpg together without importing them anew? I have put keywords on almost all my jpg in Elemenst 8 and don't want to do it again if I don't have to. It took me weeks to do.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks!
I'm in no hurry so I'' wait to see if someone comes up with a solution. Otherwise I guess I have to import them anew and tag them again. Not difficult. Just taskes a while. Should have done it correct from the beginning.

Comparing RAW vs. jpg in Aperture When Shooting RAW + jpg

I just started shooting RAW + jpg with a brand new camera. I imported these photos into Aperture. The photos all have jpg as the master with the associated Badge indicating there is also a RAW version. Changing each Badge, I can toggle between the jpg and the RAW versions.
However, I would like to compare both versions (side by side). If I don’t like the jpeg version, I’ll post process using the RAW version. How can I do this in Aperture? Ideally, I would like to have these respective RAW and jpg versions of each photo in a single Stack to facilitate comparison.

Sven Erik wrote:
Excellent! However, do you know I can create separate masters after I've already imported?
You can do this either one at a time or in multiple selection:
1 - Select image(s) you want to see both JPEG and RAW masters for (let's say you have the JPEG set as master by default).
2 - Photos menu > Set RAW as Master (this switches JPEG master to RAW master)
3 - With image(s) still selected: 'Photos menu > New version from master'
4 - You now have two RAW versions of each image (the original master version and a new version)
5 - Select all original versions and then: 'Photos menu > Set JPEG as Master'
6 - You should now have a JPEG master and a RAW version of each image (the same as having a JPEG and RAW master side by side). The only difference is that the RAW will have '-version #' after the image name.
7 - You can run a batch change via 'Metadata menu > Batch change...' and use the Version Name Format drop-down / Edit function to change the name on the new masters (I sometimes use the 'Master File Name' and remove all other items from the format field, which leaves the same master name and the file extension).
I use the 'Both (JPEG as Master)' in Tony's screenshot and then just create a RAW version if the JPEG does not meet my needs for some reason.

Since mountain lion my MBP won't import RAW or jpg files

my MBP won't import RAW or jpg files. Worked fine before. Could it be Mountain Lion?

By way of a double check I just imported photos, both jpg and RAW, without any problems into Aperture 3.3.2 on Mountain Lion without any problems what so ever.
Allan

PSE8 Crash open as Raw a .jpg image in Editor to get Raw Editor

Although it works in release 6/7, I crash when I try to open a .jpg image in the raw editor in PSE8. I use menu file,open as, select an image, and select Camera Raw on open as drop down menu and then click on Open. At that point the editor crashes and goes away and has to be restarted. Anyone have any workaround suggestions or is this broken until relase 9?

Enjoy your day!
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:00:24 -0600
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: PSE8 Crash open as Raw a .jpg image in Editor to get Raw Editor
Same behaviour here (WinXP Pro SP3, PSE upgrade path was 3-4-5-6-7-8).
I also see 2 times Camera Raw in about plug-ins as well as in the Open as list. Chosing the first one in results in error message "The operation could not be completed, Class alread exists", using the second one in Open as results in error message (my translation from German to English) "This process could not be executed, because there was a program error" (As a software developer, I love this message ).
I'd be interested in solutions as well.
Beat Gossweiler
Switzerland
>

RAW and JPG...

When I open my photos (RAW and JPG) from my Canon 70D camera in Bridge, it says that I only have 2 JPG's instead of a RAW file and JPG file. This makes it hard to work on my RAW photos. Does anyone know how I can fix this?

I am a PC user so cannot tell you from personal experience, but it seems that a screen-capture with Cmd-Shift-3 does the entire screen, and Cmd-Shift-4 does the active window, which may be better for a situation where a single application, in this case, Bridge, contains the information to be shown. After you have captured the screen or window then there will be a file on the desktop that contains an image of the screen.
The next step would be to put the image from that desktop file into a message, here. The way to do that is go tot he web version of the forums thread, rather than replying via e-mail, then in the area where you can type in more text, click the camera icon above, and browse to the screen capture image on your desktop and select, then click Upload or whatever your browser says, then you should see the picture in your message and you can type in more of the reply before or after the image.
Here is what the camera icon looks like at the type of where you type in text on the web version of the forums:

Bridge CS5 is Corrupting Raw and JPG Files Right Before My Eyes

I am using Bridge CS5 on a Mac to work on Raw files from a Canon camera. The files all looked good in the cameras review, and looked good when downloaded to the computer then the files started to corrupt and become unusable one at a time as I watched. They became all white or lines of color. Not all of them corrupted yhough (about 225 of 1100 did though). I eventually worked the uncorrupted files and even turned them into JPGs and sent them out. The next day I pull up the pics in bridge to see if they are still bad. All of a sudden files I opened and worked on yesterday started to corrupt one after another. Both the JPG and Raw files are corrupt and unusable even though they worked yesterday. It only happens when in Bridge. What is going on? This is riduculous.
Terry

Thanks for responding. What happens is I highlight a large group of files then click on open with Bridge or in Bridge I go to the subdirectory with the files. All the files are in a filmstrip on the left side of the screen. All of a sudden the file that I am viewing becomes corrupt (that is it turns into multiple horizontal lines of colors. Then I can watch as it happens to one file after another. I would compare it to when you quickly view film strips that were just uploaded and the initial thumbnail is blurry and then slowly all the thumbnails get clear as they process. But here they appear to already be fine thumbnails but then turn into the files with horizontal lines or sometimes just 30% or so so of the pic is visible and the rest is white or gray. When I try to open it the file cannot be opened because it is corrupt. It happens to both the RAW and the JPG file (I shoot in Raw+JPG). The first day it happened to about 200 of the 1200 files. So I was able to process the 1000 good ones in Raw convertor and create JPGs with no trouble. The next day I open all the files in Bridge again to see if the bad ones are good now and files I had already opened and were perfectly fine in RAW converter start to corrupt one after another like the ones did the day before. So I doubt it is the card or hardware it only happens in Bridge. Bridge must have the capability to do something to the files. It isnt making XMF files so thats not it, it is actually corrupting the RAW and JPG files. Have you ever heard of that. I found another forum with what sounded like the same issue to someone who had a Canon: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/645620
But this happened to Windows and I use MAC.....but I do use a 7D like them. I still wonder if Bridge just doesnt work well with Canon 7Ds or something like that. The above thread never found a solution. Maybe someone from Adobe has heard of this from others and discovered a reason or solution. Until then I cant trust Adobe products at all....which really sucks after how much it cost me, but whole shoots lost is worse, I guess.

Should I shoot RAW or JPG and what ratio should I pick when shooting stills?

I want to take artistic pictures. Does that mean I should shoot RAW and then deal with the settings in Photoshop? I realize I can't for the corporate photo contest because I am not allowed to Photoshop anything for the contest. And pictures at a party that I intend to share or immediately upload, I understand why I would not shoot RAW.
Are there other reasons not to do so?
Many of you know me. I have been shooting video for a while and I am just now starting to shoot stills. These are tough questions for me.
I always assumed I would shoot stills using the maximum frame size possible. However, I have other choices.
When the aspect ratio setting is [4:3]
4608x3456 pixels, 3264x2448 pixels, 2336x1752 pixels
When the aspect ratio setting is [3:2]
4608x3072 pixels, 3264x2176 pixels, 2336x1560 pixels
When the aspect ratio setting is [16:9]
4608x2592 pixels, 3264x1840 pixels, 1920x1080 pixels
When the aspect ratio setting is [1:1 ]
3456x3456 pixels, 2448x2448 pixels, 1744x1744 pixels
Now, to be honest, I can't think of a reason to shoot stills at any size other than the 4:3 based 4608x3456 except to save room on the memory card. But I figured I should probably ask just in case I am missing something. Storage is not an issue as far as I can tell at this time. I bought two 64GB cards and I will be able to use part of my 16GB Smartphone memory card for additional storage should the need arise. Most likely I will have plenty of room until I can copy over to my laptop and then on to an external drive.
For reference: http://www.herviewphotography.com/2012/06/18/raw-vs-jpg-file-formats.html

Steven,
You are correct, that you should not shoot the Holiday Party pics in RAW, as they will only be used to blackmail your boss, and co-workers, so JPEG would be adequate for that (unless you really need to do Photoshop work, to make the images more "compromising... ").
Now, shooting in Camera RAW has several advantages, and really only two disadvantages, that I can think of.
Camera RAW captures everything that the sensor can, but it is in unprocessed form (one of the disadvantages), and then Photoshop with the ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) can "process" your images. I do this, when I have real use for the Images. I have developed a Preset for my Nikon Camera RAW, for each camera, so it's fairly easy to batch process. I always Save_As PSD, since I will very likely do additional work (not useful for the company competition, but CAN be useful for those black-mail pictures, if you have much "work" to do).
I Save my NEF's (Nikon Camera RAW) Images, and then, in a separate folder, my processed PSD's. Those are sort of like duplicate transparencies, but with slightly different data in each. From the first, the NEF's, I could always run them through ACR again, should something happen to my PSD's. The reverse is not true, but at least I would have my PSD's.
For use in Video, I will almost always Open my PSD's, and Scale them, plus possibly do other Image-editing, per my needs. As I shoot at max. resolution (~ 4000 x 3000), I will be Scaling, and then likely Cropping (as most Projects now, are 16:9). If you do any 4:3 Projects, then you are already there, save for the Square Pixel vs Rectangular Pixel issue, but if you Scale the 4:3 material to 640 x 480 Square, it should look just fine in a 4:3 PAR=0.9 Project's Frame.
In camera, I always try to mentally compose the Images into 16:9 horizontal, if I see the potential for Video use. It's like keeping 11 x 17 in the back of my mind, when shooting for potential double-truck magazine use. [Back in film days, I made several Nikon screens, to fit various common uses.]
Though PrPro CS 6 (as of CS 5), with full CUDA/MPE support, can do a great job of Scaling, I still use my PS Actions to batch process entire folders, and usually on Bicubic Sharper, though for some subjects, I choose Bicubic Smoother. This means that I am not "pushing around" a bunch of unused pixels. I Crop each Image, and then Scale it, with the Action, to match the Frame Size of the Project.
Now, back to RAW. That allows you the full capture from the sensor, so you have everything to work with. I shoot in 16-bit, for as much data, as I can get. One step in the process, but usually well after the ARC processing, and Saving_As PSD, will be the conversion to 8-bit Mode, but only after ALL of my processing, as PrPro cannot use 16-bit Bit-Depth, for Video.
For just general shooting (usually "happy-snaps"), with no inteneded high-rez printing, or Video use, I will shoot JPEG, at the highest quality setting (lowest compression), and be done with it.
One disatvantage of Camera RAW is the write time to the card, but with newer cameras, and faster cards, that is less of a problem, than it once was. Still, even high-rez JPEG's, though they do require in-camera processing to JPEG, will allow one to shoot more quickly. [That can be very important with those Holiday Party pics, as who knows what will happen in the next nanosecond?]
To me, Camera RAW is sort of like standing in front of a photograph, with my entire set of cameras. I ask, "Is this really a great shot?" If so, out comes the 4 x 5. If the answer is "maybe," then I grab a Hassleblad. If the answer is "no, but it IS interesting," then the 35mm is my choice. Sort of the same thing, but instead of cameras, it's RAW vs High-rez JPEG.
Just some thoughts.
Hunt
[Edit] PS - what the linked article said.

Colors of RAW vs JPG in Lightroom and CS3

I am confused by this.
When shooting RAW +JPG on my Canon 350D, the RAW and JPG have different color qualities. The RAW is more yellow, or maybe warmer. The JPG more blue or cooler.
I think this is odd. And it is consistent in Lightroom AND CS3 and yet in Irfanview and Canon Digital Photo Professional they they are identical. Totally.
Why would this be? And which is "right" in Lightroom? The RAW? It looks the better of the two, but hard to compare across programs. But why the difference and why not in all programs, just ADOBE?
Thanks.
~Bob

DPP uses the in camera settings as its starting point to view RAW files, so these files will appear identical to any jpegs produced at the same time. The in camera settings are attached to the RAW file and DPP reads this information when opening or loading a RAW file for the first time.
Lightroom does not have access to this information and so it has its own starting point that it uses when you open a RAW file, thus the RAW file will look different than the JPEG and different to the RAW file opened in DPP (while the JPEG and RAW file in DPP will look the same). Most other RAW programs do not have access to this information (Capture 1, Bibble etc) and they also will have a starting point that is different to DPP. One of the significant advantages of Lightroom over DPP is that you can create your own profiles so you can tailor your "starting point" to suit your preferences and style whereas with DPP you always start where the Canon guy says you should be.
There are a few programs that use the Canon SDK or Canon RAW viewer utility in windows to display images (Breeze Browser comes to mind). Irfranview may be one of these which is why RAW files viewed here may look te same as DPP or the JPEG.
As to which is right. Neither, none or all of them. Right or wrong is purely subjective and based on which you prefer. If you never make any changes to the RAW file you may as well just shoot jpegs and that will be right for you. But then you loose thae ability to influence the look of your files proior to the file creation which is why we shoot RAW in the first place.
Hope this helps
Gordon

RAW vs JPG quality question

Just got Lightroom and am now for the first time taking images in RAW format. I am using a Canon SLR as well as a Panasonic P&S both shooting in JPG and RAW. The Canon RAW images have an extension of .CR2 and the Panasonic has an extension of .RW2..
Okay with that out of the way, I'm going through my images and notice that the RAW images don't look nearly as nice as the JPG images. As I understand it, RAW has all of the information from the picture taken and gives more flexibility with adjustments. But how is it that the two images side by side look so different? I like the look of the JPG images most of the time.. They have better color quality and the lighting seems to be more accurate to what was shot. Some even seem to have a higher level of sharpness where the RAW images almost look like they could be slightly out of focus. I've tried to get the RAW and JPG images to look the same to see if there is a specific difference (see if contrast is always x lower or x higher etc... ) but can't seem to get a RAW image to look like what was actually shot.
Any input on working with RAW images or experience that would help me out here?
Much appreciated!
Nathan

The main “quality” thing you’ll probably see different your camera’s raw conversion (to JPGs) and Adobe’s is that there is no default luminance noise-reduction so there will be grain you can see and that the sharpening is more subtle.
You can adjust both the noise-reduction and sharpening to taste, just don’t overdo it. When I look at a camera JPG I typically see too much noise reduction which has removed too much fine detail, and sharpening halos along edges, both of which I dislike, now that I’ve worked with raws for so long.
Here is the first part of a three-part tutorial about the three types of sharpening, capture, creative, output, that you can do to raw files in Lightroom. The links to the other two parts are at the bottom of part one:
http://laurashoe.com/2011/08/21/sharpening-in-lightroom-part-one-overview-and-capture-shar pening/
You should also be doing your capture and creative sharpening with the zoom set to 100% or 1:1. The resampling algorithim used to show smaller-than-100%-zoom views in Lightroom Develop will give inaccurate sharpening preview results, so what you think you’re doing will be different than what is actually visible in the output you produce with LR, unless you use 1:1.

Raw vs jpg?

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