Re: Router for about 50 users

Hello All,
I am planning to purchase a Router for about 50 users. In future it may increment to about 80 users. We also want ssl vpn and failover option. Please suggest me the best router to purchase. I would be having 2 mbps line as primary and 1 mbps line as secondary. We would be using the network for 24x7 and our company is into software developing. So, heavy download and uploads would be needed.
Thanks in Advance!!!!

Hi CSCO11776584,
Check out the SA540. It should have what you need:
http://www.cisco.com/cisco/web/solutions/small_business/products/security/SA_500/index.html-tab-Models

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Is it possible to do ecatt testing for about 3000 users

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My company is upgrading sap and needs ecatt testing to be don. Is it possible to do ecatt testing for about 3000 users.... i mean the requirement is to record the data given by the user and capture it as a log which can be analysed further??? anyone can help me?..please give me some reference and ideas..
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Welcome to SDN
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It looks like the creator of Netflix Desktop has a site for the project here:
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IPhone 4S Battery Life: Best solutions and procedures for 1st time user: 1-Do you have a battery life issue (learn first what the usage time spec is about) 2-What can you try to remedy the situation without reading 500 pages of posts

What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
Thank you and good luck!
General info and specs
First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge. The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
Optimize your settings
Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life. For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals. The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power. Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas. Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls. To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life. Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions. Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life. To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact. Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
Procedures
davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases. It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple. Good Luck!
ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the                 infrared is off after the reboot).
7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
* I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
If that doesn't work try :
Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
This is what I did:
1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
5. Add the iCloud account again.
That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
This is the MacRumors discussion:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ... tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
W. Raider tips (Sirii):
Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
Hope this is helpful!
Comments
jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac. I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud. The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x). Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone. It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification). I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file. I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync. I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that. My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi.    I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery. It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage. My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby. I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event. I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps. More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks that occur for the service on an os level not an app level. This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking. The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone. No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed. If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery. I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message. On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3 or 4 percent drop. On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop. Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain). For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info. I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable.
Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent. If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

Hi guys i had been an iPhone 5 user for about 3 years and i have recently swapped over to a samsung s4 i dont know if this was a good idea any assistance or light in the right direction would be appreciated?

Hi guys i had been an iPhone 5 user for about 3 years and i have recently swapped over to a samsung s4 i dont know if this was a good idea any assistance or light in the right direction would be appreciated?

Sorry i correct myself i had been an iPhone user for about 3 years. My last Apple iPhone was an iPhone 5. I am getting used to things with the Samsung but really think the extra features such as smart stay and scroll are coverting humans into robots. The configuration of the features is also difficult as it detects your eye movement so if the movement is out of place even the slightest the feature will not function. I think the ios user interface is simple in comparison to the android user interface. Any views are appreciated? I have many friends also using HTC and prefer it in comparison to the iPhone and Galaxy but as raymond73 mentioned choice is a wonderful thing.

HT204210 Still nothing about File Vault that needs a bug fix for almost every user. This is becoming even more disappointing!

Still nothing about File Vault that needs a bug fix for almost every user. This is becoming even more disappointing!

Apple Enterprise Support is aware of this issue. They have specific instructions which attempt to remediate the issue, however, attempting on two different MBP laptops, so far has not succeeded.
The problem to be specific is - hang at login. The Filevaulted user account gets its password entered, then the "progress bar" mid screen will be seen to halt, never resuming. NVRAM resets dont necessarily cure this issue, but turning off FV2 definitely does.
We are seeing this with 10.10.2 fully Apple-SUS updated machines.
Feedback has been sent to Apple over this as well.
Im recommending:
a. turn off FV2 until such time as a Apple provided update cures it
b. consider the Sophos WDE solution if WDE is absolutely required (disclosure: I havent attempted this, not sure about its workability)

HT1695 I am at home and have a wireless router on my DSL line. I have been using the iPad for about a month without difficulty and tonight it will not connect. I do not understand why and yes, I am electronically challenged so be gentle!

I recently purchased an iPad after using a laptop and PC for years. I use a wireless router connected to a DSL line at home and have been using the iPad without difficulty for about a month and tonight it will not connect to the Internet. There is not a problem with the DSL or router. I am using the laptop now. Could someone please give this eectnically challenged individual assistance?

1. Turn router off for 30 seconds and on again
2. Settings>General>Reset>Reset Network Settings

Information about the default setup for the demo user

Hi,
Can anyone guide me the properties which we have to set for the below
# Information about the default setup for the demo user.
db.adminUser=system
db.demoUser=FOD
db.demoUser.password=fusion
db.demoUser.tablespace=USERS
db.demoUser.tempTablespace=TEMP
And what exactly they represent
Regards,
Krishna

Krishna,
It's pretty obvious...
db.adminUser = the username of a dba user in your database
db.demoUser = the username of the demo user that will get created
db.demoUser.password = the password that will be used for the demo user
db.demoUser.tablespace = the default tablespace for the demo user
db.demoUser.tempTablespace = the default temporary tablespace for the demo user
You don't have to change any of them.
John

TS2972 i have done all 7 steps recommended by the troubleshooting articles and only when i restart my router does my library show on apple tv2 but only for about 5 minutes, this was never a problem before the updates of itunes and apple tv2,

i have done all 7 steps recommended by the troubleshooting articles and only when i restart my router does my library show on apple tv2 but only for about 5 minutes, this was never a problem before the updates of itunes and apple tv2, i have spent insane amounts of money on the apple store buying movies and tv shows that i cannot watch anymore, and no there is no firewall on my laptop nor my router, so no port configuration is needed
i have read many articles for this problem but there is no solution, some say restart the router, others say uncheck the option to sync iphone over wi-fi, others suggest not hitting the "done" button after setting up homeshare on itunes, NONE of them work. My itunes library disappears from ym apple tv 2 after 5 minutes or so

Did not work. I've selected iMessage to ON and left it. After a few hours I recieved a message "activation unsuccessful. Turn on iMessage to try again". This has been going on for the past 3 days.

About maximum ipv4 routes for GSR router

Hi all,
I am planning to install GSR 12404 router for Internet router to receive full BGP routing table. Just wondering what the maximum routes supported for GSR into the CEF?
The hardware will be used is as below
PRP-2
SIP-400 w/ SPA-2x1GE
Thanks,

looshfoo wrote:thinking about it, could it be the dhcp lease on the local router going up and it running a dhcp request and getting the route again?
Yes.
Your lease is only valid for X minutes/hours, after that it has to be renewed, which will recreate the def route. There's probably a config option in your dhcp client to ignore the def route.

Best router for multiple users

I'm looking for recommendations for a new router for home use. We are currently using an old, cheap Belkin and it's showing it's age. We have a Mac laptop, Dell laptop, an iPad, two iPhones and will soon be hooking up a Samsung Smart Blu-Ray player. Any suggestions? With just the two laptops, we've been experiencing too much lag, so I really need an upgrade.
THANKS
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If all of those are going to be using the network at the same time, you need a high-end router. Nothing under $100 will do. I recommend a Netgear WNDR3700 if you can still find them on the shelf. Also, do not expect great things from your network if you are streaming a lot of video wirelessly to your iDevices, notebooks, and Blu-Ray player as it wastes much of the internal bandwidth on your wireless network and will make everything slower. You should invest in Powerline Ethernet adapters for the Blu-Ray player unless it's in the same room as the router and you can run an Ethernet cable as Ethernet will outperform ANY wireless connection you could setup and streaming video through the Blu-Ray player will require A LOT of bandwidth for HD Netflix, HD Hulu, and other such things.

Using a 3rd party router for Multicast

Hi all,
There’s a lot of feedback on this board about using third party routers with Multicast, so we’ve decided to put this information all in the one place for you.
NOTE: the workarounds below haven’t been tested by BT as we do not support 3rd party routers and we do not endorse any of them. Our recommended router remains the Home Hub.
With the above statement in mind, we know that a lot of you do choose to use other routers. The information contained here has come from fellow customers who have given their time to share this information in good faith. Thanks to all of the forum members who have helped make this information available to our community it is a great example of the wealth of information that a community can provide and we hope this encourages users to come back and visit us in the future.
A special mention goes to walkerx who has posted and prompted a lot of the provided information.
Hub configurations in alphabetical order:
Apple Airport Extreme
Put your Airport Extreme into Bridge Mode and turn the Home Hub's wireless off.
[From MartinH's post]
ASUS RT-N66U
You must configure 'Enable VPN + DHCP Connection' to 'No' under the WAN option.
Settings used were:
- Have router on the latest firmware: 3.0.0.4.374.130
- Use the following settings in LAN > IPTV:
- 'Select ISP Profile' = None
- 'Choose IPTV STB Port' = None
- 'Use DHCP routes' = Microsoft
- 'Enable multicast routing (IGMP Proxy) = Enable
- 'Enable efficient multicast forwarding (IGMP Snooping) = Enable
- 'UDB Proxy (Udpxy) = 0
[From sepph's post]
Billion 7800DXL
Router has been reported to work.
[From walkerx's post]
Billion 7800N
Requires you to add another profile (Pure Bridge) to the EWAN port along with the PPPoE profile. Save settings & restart. Also enable IGMP proxy & snooping.
[TimCurtis' post]
DLink Dir 825
If enable multicast you can see the on-demand players but get an IPC6023 error when viewing the test channel (this means poor internet channel quality). This error message comes up even though it works if use the Home Hub 4
[walkerx's post]
Netgear R6300
Netgear R6300, but with the Home Hub 3.0 and 500Mbit Powerline adapters in the picture.
Modem -> HH3 -> R6300 -> Powerline -> 2 x Youview Boxes on other Powerlines.
To do this, configure the Home Hub 3.0 as 192.168.1.1, then disable its wireless and DHCP. Make sure that NAT and UPNP were enabled, and then set it to use the address 192.168.1.254 as a DMZ server.
Then configure the R6300 as the address 192.168.0.1, using the WAN IP address of 192.168.1.254, with 192.168.1.1 as the gateway and DNS server. The R6300 is then connected via WAN port to the HH3 Gigabit port.
In the R6300 settings switch on IGMP.
The above settings allow both YouView boxes to use on demand content and different streaming channels simultaneously, as well as giving the full features of the R6300 such as AC1750 wireless, network printing, and DLNA
[wigglr's post]
TP-Link AC1750
Router has been reported to work.
[zarf2007's post]
TP-Link Archer C7
Router has been reported to work.
[HappySlayerUK's post]
TP-Link TL-WR1043ND
No configuration needed, plug and play.
[walkerx's post]
TP-Link WDR4300 N750
Router has been reported to work.
[aseymour's post]
TP-Link TL-WDR4900 N900
Router has been reported to work, plug and play.
[cactusbob's post]
TP-Link routers in general
How to configure Multicast on TP-Link routers (from the TP-Link website).
One of our posters also found the following:
He found that your router must be able to do the following for Multicast:
For an end user connected via Openreach GEA (FTTC and FTTH)
• The Residential Gateway will support:
– IPoE for multicast traffic and PPPoE for BB traffic;
– VLAN tag ID of 0 or no VLAN tag ID for multicast and BB traffic;
– Fork IGMP requests up multicast and BB paths.
For an end user connected to an MSAN (WBC copper)
• The Residential Gateway will support:
– A dual VC architecture;
– Accept TV Connect multicast traffic on ATM VP/VC 0/35 with IPoE and broadband traffic on ATM VP/VC 0/38 with PPPoE;
– Fork IGMP requests up multicast and broadband paths.
IGMP should v3 and will be in range from 225.0.0.0 to 239.255.255.255
[walkerx's post]
List of routers that do not appear to work:
Draytek 2750n
Linksys EA4500
linksys EA6300
Netgear AC6300
[From Red_Snow's post]
If you use a router that’s not listed here, do a search on the YouView from BT board to see if advice has been posted elsewhere. If it hasn’t, do post your question.
Thanks,
Stephanie
Stephanie
BTCare Community Manager
If you like a post, or want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side of the post. If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

Thanks for confirming that quails.
Cheers
David
BTCare Community Mod
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Microsoft Word Has Not Been Installed for the Current User

Hi, everybody
I'm just starting our attempt to put together ZfD app packages for MS Office 2007. I've tried 2 different route with poor results for each. I'm looking for guidance and suggestions and, hey really, the simple final solution. :)
Objectives: Each app package will install locally one of the Office apps (e.g., Word) if it is not installed and then launch it, otherwise it will launch it. It gets installed locally to the C: drive using all the MS default choices, but runs from the desktop ZEN/NAL shortcut. All desktops are XP, not Vista or W7.
Routes tried and failed...
1) Simple app, uses distribution and run scripts to figure out if already installed, then installs using network shared drive and config.xml file for just the one app. The result ought to work -- no particular error in the package, those are fixed -- but what happens is something different each time with the MS setup.exe, and it never does complete without its own error (various and different each time). So, this appears to be completely unreliable because launching MS's setup.exe from a simple app is unpredictable and incomplete.
2) Snapshot of a successful setup.exe and config.xml install. This ALMOST works... well it does in fact work but the snapshotted app gives an error once it finishes launching -- "Microsoft Word Has Not Been Installed for the Current User" -- and exits. From the research I've done on this message, the MS program sees the "wrong" Windows profile on the destination environment, compared to that in the snapshot, and figures it's now been installed from a bootleg copy of Office 2007.
At this stage all I can think of is expletives. We've paid for everything, I've followed all the usual and customary steps, played by the rules, been polite (and also used the necessary computer swear words), and now I just want to insult everyone in Microsoft's marketing department for ruining everyone's life yet again. Can't we just do this, is it too much to ask!?!
Please help me. What is really going to work for distributing and maintaining Office 2007 apps using our ZfD environment? ALL USEFUL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME. Thank you. Bless you.
-Kent S.
Be strong as a ship and wise as a whale

These questions are really best in the Microsoft Office Forums.
These are MS Office Questions not ZEN Questions.
Novell did not design Microsoft's Office Install.
I have nothing against snapshots, but it does not work great with the Office
installs, which you yourself know since you are posting here with problems
based on that.
And your other method you are trying with the break out is not working well.
We also know that from experience.
We can tell you that the way most people install it and the way most people
succeed doing it, is by doing it the way recommended and designed by
Microsoft.
ZEN does that just fine.
Craig Wilson - MCNE, MCSE, CCNA
Novell Knowledge Partner
Novell does not officially monitor these forums.
Suggestions/Opinions/Statements made by me are solely my own.
These thoughts may not be shared by either Novell or any rational human.
"KentFSmith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Thank you, Grimlock (-Grimlock?-)
>
> Through a google search I encountered a very close suggestion, and the
> poster said they couldn't remember the name of a MS utility but that
> there was one that would break out the individual MSIs from the Office
> 2007 setup.exe bundle. The dependent app appears to be a simple and
> possibly elegant solution, but without a good way to break out the MSIs
> I don't see how to do anything other than with a config.xml ('Config.xml
> file in the 2007 Office system'
> (http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/l.../cc179195.aspx)).
>
> Do you know of that utility and where I can find it?
>
> There is a lot of history here now of just doing the individual
> applications. Everyone gets Word and Excel, but much fewer get
> PowerPoint and Access. All other reasons aside, a compelling one is the
> reduced number of help calls to the Help Desk here. Occasionally we
> also just run the whole Office install for someone who needs some of the
> odd utilities, but that is easily cost-justifiable for us to break them
> out as exceptions. Otherwise, we focus 90% of our support on just Word
> and Excel and it pays off nicely.
>
> If we switch to putting full Office 2007 on all PCs then there may be a
> better approach that include other tools than ZfD, such as the fact that
> we replace 1/3 of all PCs in the organization each year (so that no
> hardware is more than 3 years "behind"). We could put 1/3 of all Office
> 2007 installs into the new PC image. But we still need to support all
> the use of the apps after the install, so ZfD MUST work well, it simply
> MUST work well or we're screwed, to use the vernacular. Also, just
> switching from what we've been doing for years -- single app orientation
> -- means introducing new-ish issues that have to discover and explain to
> our comrades, and to adjust our orientation with unknown future costs.
>
> But that may end up being the simplest adequate solution. And that's
> what I want.
>
> -K
>
> grimlock;1883526 Wrote:
>> Craig Wilson wrote:
>> > You should really focus on #1.
>> > Snapshot is not the way to go.
>> >
>> > Details about what is Not working or what random behavior may help
>> folks.
>> > Ask in the MS forums may help too. dont' mention zenworks.
>> > Just say you are installing as Administrator from a share and getting
>> these
>> > errors.
>> >
>> > While not 100% accurate, it should be good enough to get some good
>> feedback.
>> >
>>
>> Nor is installing 1 app at a time. Install the whole suite, have an
>> icon for each app that runs the exe for that app with a dependency on
>> the another app that points to the installer msi.
>>
>> If any user runs any app, it will run if the executable is there
>> (meaning it's been installed). If the executable is not there then it
>> calls the dependent application (the installer app) and installs it,
>> and
>> then runs it.
>
>
> --
> KentFSmith
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> KentFSmith's Profile: http://forums.novell.com/member.php?userid=2927
> View this thread: http://forums.novell.com/showthread.php?t=391573
>
>

Which is better for Branch Office Cisco ASA or Cisco 1900 router for Branch Office?

Which is a better solution ?
Using ASA55XX or 1900 series router for WAN and Internet access for 25 - 100 users?

Without knowing more about the environment and what the real requirements are, it is difficult to give a really good answer. If your main concern is effective stateful inspection of traffic entering and leaving the site then the ASA is optimized for that. If you want redundancy (active/active or active/standby) then the ASA is better for this. There are other potential requirements which may make the router the better choice:
- what is the connection to the Internet? If it is Ethernet then either ASA or router will do fine. But if it is something other than Ethernet then you may need the router.
- is there a need for services such as Policy Based Routing? These are available on the router and not on the ASA.
- is there a need for load balancing on outbound traffic? This is available on the router and not on the ASA.
- will there be a need to do routing on the inside network? The range of available options is wider on the router than on the ASA.
- is there a need to run a routing protocol with the Internet provider? The usual choice for this is BGP and that is available on router and not on ASA.
So consider these criteria as you make your choice. Or provide more detail about your environment and what your real requirements are and we may be able to give better advice.
HTH
Rick

Re: Router for about 50 users

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