RE: White Balance and Color Temperature

Can we do the same kind of White Balancing, Like we have In Photoshop Camera Raw, In Premiere pro ?
Also, can we change the Color Temperature In Premiere Pro?
Thanks.

Photoshop CC has made Camera RAW available as a filter. That means it is easy to use it on video.
Can you do anything in Camera RAW to a video that you can't do the hard way with color correction and levels, etc, in Premiere Pro? No. Is it easier because you are used to the sliders? You bet!
This first frame is from a video I shot to test the codecs my camera can use. The trees are rather dark, because, well, I didn't care when I shot the video. I was concerned with the movement of the juggling toys.
But if I take it into Photoshop and use Camera RAW I can do very quickly what would take a lot longer, for me, in Premiere Pro. You will have to take my word for it that the color of the shirt in the corrected frame is more realistic. The Camera RAW settings were pretty much what I do to almost all of my photographs. Very slight adjustment to exposure, a little clarity, bring out the shadows, bring down the highlights that are too white and bring up the contrast.

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White Balance and Color are off!!! NEF D80

I was unable to get my images to appear as I shot them. I shoot with a Nikon D80 and shoot with a Vivid setting. Now after shooting a wedding of more than 1500 images I have to find a way to color correct them all. I have attempted the downgrade to the previous version, unsuccessful. I have forwarded on my comments to apple and find that this issue effects tens of thousands of photos. As a MFA student at a major university, and studying color management and workflow, I feel I need to look elsewhere for file management as iPhoto is not able to do the job and the fact that it affects my entire library system of photos... simply unacceptable. I have always found the discussion groups extremely helpful, but this issue has effected so many of us and is such a huge integral part of the photographic process that I need to look to other programs to effectively handle my color management.
Disappointing.
Daryn

You might look atMedia Expression as a DAM (digital asset management) application for your work. It's the M$ version of iView MediaPro which MS bought out. It is a professional DAM application. There's also Aperture, Bridge and Lightroom. You can learn more about these from professional photographers at the DAM forum: http://thedambook.com/smf/index.php
iPhoto is an entry level DAM application geared more for the home photographer.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. Just put the application in the Dock and click on it whenever you want to backup the dB file. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
Note: There's now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Command Click in edit changes color white balance and tint in edit

Command Click in edit changes color white balance and tint in edit, what is happening?

robwouds:
Welcome to the Apple Discussions. Must be a hidden keyboard combination for temperature and tint. Not sure if the user can set different settings of each that the keystrokes will take you thru. Just hit the reset button in the Adjust pane to get it back to normal.
Do you Twango?

White Balance in Color

I have been using Color for my first short film and I wanted to get feedback about my process in balancing the white balance. Color is absent the easy white balance eye-dropper. So this is my process in the Primary In room.
1. Balance the contrast - crushing blacks and boosting the highlights.
2. Balance skin tone using the mid-tones color wheel.
3. "Eye-ball" the white balance by moving the Highlights color wheel until I achieve whites I deem white.
Do the scopes help me balance the white better? Is this a proper process? After I complete these steps I move to saturation and secondary CC.
Thoughts?
cja

If you were airline pilots, I'm not sure I'd want to fly with that carrier. Instruments are there for some reason, I guess, but you don't need 'em on ultralights, but on second thought maybe that's why there are so many stall-spin fatals. Hmmmmm. Well, anyway...
COLOR does have an auto balance, but it needs something in the frame that really wants to be R=G=B, because that is what it does, after sneaking a peak at where the corresponding Y-luminance sits. Sometimes its a reasonable starting point. But if the brightest thing in the picture really is a brilliant blue, then it won't work.
COLOR is concatenated Primary In, Secondary, COLORFX, Primary Out deliberately. The opening premise is to achieve a balanced, non-clipped, non-crushed image to send onwards for qualified-area corrections, look enhancement, and then overall final contrast, overexposure and black crushing at the end in Primary OUT. That was the idea. Its how Silicon Color trained the first round of Final Touch operators. You are free to pursue any avenue that achieves the result you desire.
Use of instruments. It is possible to use the scopes to achieve balance, especially using the vectorscope display. One of the simplest concepts is to learn to "lay the furball over the origin". Eventually you will figure out what part of the furball corresponds to the white point, the black origin, and how to guide the values into a particular area, especially when hue matching scene-to-scene in the still store. One of the egregious drawbacks of the COLOR scopes is the omission in the RGB parade of the Y signal. That would be most helpful (to people who pay attention to that stuff) and its why its the default on most outboard scopes. I'm particularly fond of the Tektronix Double-Diamond gamut display... makes getting a grey scale as simple as "standing up" the two trees.
Strictly speaking you don't really need to know what the exact numbers are, until you try to get a project past a QA somewhere. Those people have no sense of humour.
jPo

Correcting white balance and exposure

Does FCE offer good ways to fix bad white balance and underexposure?
I just tested the video filter for underexposure and color and they improve things are just pathetic compared to an edit an editor friend did in full Final Cut. So maybe FCE can do better and I just missed or did not see what to do?

You would probably do better with the 2-way color corrector than what you originally did. The 3-way in FCP is a better tool but the 2-way is what comes with FCE.
In general, with the 2-way color corrector you should start adjustments this way:
Click the Auto Contrast button once
Then do Auto Black followed by Auto White (one click each)
Then adjust the Mids if necessary.
After all that, play with the color balance..
To better white balance your shot it often helps to crank the Saturation slider all the way up, then use the eyedropper tool at the lower left of the Balance wheel to select something in your shot that should be truly white (white, not necessarily bright). Since the saturation slider is all the way up, any adjustments you make will be exaggeraged but that helps you get it right. You can make further adjustments to get the whites as neutral as possible and then slide the saturation back down to a more normal level. It takes some noodling, but it can be done.

Issues with White Balance and other camera setting...

I have found a glitch with the camera on the Lumia 800: When you try to change a different white balance setting- (try it with incandescent so you can see the difference) as well as changing the scene (ie to portrait mode) it will flip back to auto white balance, although it will say that it is still incandescent. If you change the scene first and then the white balance and save those settings, it will take one picture like that and then revert back to auto white balance again for the next shot, but again it will tell you that it is still incandescent. (You can clearly see the white balance difference between the 2 shots, even though the camera settings say they should be the same). The whole point of saving settings is so that you can take multple shots with the same settings. I have spent hours on the phone to Nokia trying to explain this to them and they have assured me that it will be fixed in the next update. I took the phone back to the Orange shop and we tried 3 different handsets and they all had the same problem.
I also have the same problem with video autofocus that lots of people have mentioned. Has anyone found a solution yet? The main reason I got this phone (only last week) was for the camera so I am diappointed. I am a photographer so I am really fussy about cameras! They have said in the Orange shop that I can change the Lumia for another phone, such as a Galaxy S2, which is also an awesome phone. The thing is, I really love the Lumia otherwise. I really like the fact that I don't have an iPhone anymore, for a start!!
Does anyone think the network you are on makes a difference? It's just that several people have suggested that there could be a conflict with the Orange software and the Nokia/Windows software. Does anyone else have this problem who is not with Orange?

Thanks for all of your valuable suggestions.
The problem was compounded when there were drastic shifts in the levels of ambient light also occuring at the same time.
Happy Holidays to everyone.
Bruce

White Balance and other Mayhem

This past weekend I was shooting as usual when unexpectedly for several minutes, it was “open season”, anything goes color wise so the footage from that segment is filled with totally inappropriate tints, hues and false coloration like all of the sudden the white balance went haywire amongst other factors.
Then, thrown in for good measure the lighting keep shifting from light to dark to light.
Accordingly, my questions are these:
My goal is to somehow salvage these minutes if it isn’t too much work assuming it can be made to look right. The problem is all of my color correcting experience to date has been solely with digital photography. I have none at all with Premiere and CS3 which appears to eb very involved and complex comparatively speaking. Is there a solution that a newbie to color correction could pursue to some level of success at least as a viable starting point that anyone care to share and explain in some detail?
Does CS 3 have any autofixes or functions exclusively recommended for white balance issues?
For example digital photo editing programs have sliders named just that or maybe they’ll be split between temperature and another associated parameter.
Thanks as any information, suggestions or advice acquired will be used to learn and grow.

Thanks for all of your valuable suggestions.
The problem was compounded when there were drastic shifts in the levels of ambient light also occuring at the same time.
Happy Holidays to everyone.
Bruce

White balance and RAW

I have been importing RAW files from my Canon S70 for a while, and everything has worked very well. Recently, however, imported RAW files are showing up with the incorrect white balance in iPhoto (different from the one they were taken with on the camera). If I open the same RAW file in any other editor the correct white balance is displayed. Does anyone know how I might fix this?
The weird part is that it didn't used to do this--iPhoto used to display all my RAW files w/ the white balance they were taken with. It was nice because I could just export JPGs directly. Now, however, I have to open them up in another editor and export so they have the correct WB.
Any help would be great, thanks.

Heya Black eyes,
I've never heard of this one before except in an instance where the person was using Photoshop CS to edit the files right after importing them into iPhoto (Photoshop was adding its own colorprofile and throwing off poor iphoto).
Consider removing ~/library/caches, and ~/library/preferences/com.apple.iphoto.plist, and ~/pictures/iphotolibrary/albumdata.xml to the trash.
Restart your computer.
Test iPhoto - does the issue persist?
If so then try creating a new iphoto library by launching iphoto with the option key.
Import from your camera to there.
If it works then your original iphoto library needs to be rebuilt following kbase 107947 and using all 4 options.
If not then I would make sure that the color sync profiles on your system as a whole have not been changed.
Hope that helps!
Cheers!

White balance and B+W image

I understand how I can use the colour information in a raw file to create a B+W image with some considerable depth and variety. In the B&W tab, I can reset the various contributions of the different colours to the image (which is great), and I can use these to create all kinds of filter effects, etc.
There is one thing I'd like to be able to do that LR doesn't seem to allow me. I would like to get a netural (true) reading of the luminance values of the sensor when I'm converting to B+W. I should be able to do that by setting these values to their middle location (option click gives me a "reset"). However, I'd really like to completely neutralise the white balance settings as this setting is still altering the luminance values of the image.
I really want to have a completely neutral representation of the luminance values as recorded by the sensor with no colour bias in how these are rendered, but I don't see how I can do that with the requirement to set a white balance. It really seems to me that LR should have a way to disable WB when converting to B+W, or at least some way to have WB be bypassed (or neutral). I understand that this can be a part of a creative interpretation (so I'm not suggesting it should be disabled). Then I can still use the B+W colour sliders to control the contribution of each colour, which also might include manipulating white balance.
From the reading I've done, I can chose a 6500K (or 5500K, opinions seem to vary about which value is "most neutral") - and I would assume a value of 0 on the red-green tint, but even in this setting, there still seems to be some notion of a weighting being applied to the recorded colour values.
I don't think I can use LAB in Photoshop for this; I could just take the "L" channel, but then I've lost the colour information, and if I were to keep all three channels, then I think I would still have a WB setting to contend with? (Sorry, I don't know much about how LAB works, so maybe I can do it this way)?
So, basically, I want to start with as neutral a rendering into B+W as I can, just as an achromatic sensor (or B+W film) would record the shot, then use the color information in the RAW file from that point.
Thanks!
Bill

So, basically, I want to start with as neutral a rendering into B+W as I can, just as an achromatic sensor (or B+W film) would record the shot, then use the color information in the RAW file from that point.
An achromatic sensor would have no colour information, but it would still have a certain effective WB built into its hue sensitivity. Same for B&W film, or for any variants on that such as the orthochromatic film which preceded that. Early movie film required lurid coloured makeup (green lipstick IIRC) for the actors, to make their mouths show up in a way that seemed natural in B&W terms. Then the film stock improved, became "panchromatic".
IMO you are misusing the word "neutral" here, since all photographic techniques are carefully designed, developed and then honed by testing so as to correspond credibly to human vision. So it's a matter of choosing among the many representations that are available, one that WE (using some standardised average) consider subjectively believable or natural-looking. All cameras or all Raw conversion impose a contrast curve as standard, which can be varied to taste, but there is no greater "neutrality" to one or another setting for that curve, except what WE choose to invest in that. Same for WB.
If you wished to define a central-weighted averaging-metered shot in LR "neutral" tone curve (under the 2012 process version), using Adobe Standard camera profile, with all other settings at Adobe defaults, Daylight WB, you would not be alone in considering that some kind of an - at least useful - idea of an un-fiddled-with starting point ... merely because, this has not been overtly individualised for a given picture. However any other setup that you can apply consistently, would be an equally valid starting point.
This is like the reliability of witnesses in court - we do not require them to be omniscient and infallible, and would be more (not less) suspicious of the testimony if there was any claim to that; we only require them to be candid, without applying bias or distortion or pretending to be other than they are.
The Raw data is not conventionally human viewable - or at least, we know that we are looking at an artificiality however we make it viewable, and this cannot be a "better" picture per se (whatever it is) without having considered, "better" for what?
If you instead wanted to define a pattern-metered exposure, Camera Standard, auto tone (assuming that worked - grin), AutoWB, apply auto mix to first B&W conversion... as your "vanilla", you might in truth better reflect the highly adaptable nature of human vision... and more particularly, of the kind of camera you picked, as having a pictorial character which seems more natural to you. If you consistently think ALL your out-of-camera images need some kind of correction, then that is YOUR normal. Even "vanilla" does not taste of nothing, it is distinctively sweet and fragrant; but in a way that we become so used to, that it can eventually pass our notice without comment.
A daylight balanced WB picture of a candle-lit scene represents an odd variation on human perceptions, but so does a perfectly WB-corrected one - since our experience of candle-lighting includes the awareness of how much what we see is "warmed", which might be why we have chosen that kind of illumination. The camera WB, and/or the B&W conversion we might make, or (for example) our decision to use tungsten-balanced rather than daylight-balanced film (or a corrective colour filter) to represent it, reflects the same perceptual relativism.
To paraphrase Pontius Pilate, "what is neutrality?" (applies noise reduction, as a digital equivalent of washing hands).

White balance and lightroom

is there anywhere in the program that lists the white balance used for an image? thanks

> Develop mode, top right-hand panel. In degrees and tint tilting, ...
... altho it will not likely agree with your camea setting. Lr (and ACR) use a different Wb "model" (e.g., temp, tint) than a camera's Wb temp.

Custom white balance and EXIF data

Using 3.1.1 for two weeks or so, all is good for now but I have a question. After shooting the same subject with different white balance (still learning digital photography) with my D7000, a few with auto WB, a few with the camera's incandescent settings and a few with customized K degrees, 4,500K, 5,000K and 6,200K to analyze the differences, on the exif data, Aperture only shows AWB and the "incandescent" setting on the camera whenever used, but it doesn't show me when I set the degrees by numbers on the camera, it shows as "auto white balance", is this part of the white balance glitch? Although I can see the difference between those custom K degrees on preview, how do I find out in Aperture the exact K used on those custom WB other than looking back on the camera?

Thanks for replying.
No, not in Auto mode. I was in Aperature mode.
I have used custom white balance many times before.
I tried the battery removal etc. No luck there.
Removed and reinserted card. No help.
I finally got out of this hangup.
I downloaded all images to PC using the Canon EOS software.
Then I deleted all images from card in camera.
Then when I set up custom white balance again, it worked just as expected.
There was a very brief flash of the "Busy..." message and then into the next step to set .
Have no clue as why this suddenly started.
Maybe struck by stray gamma ray burst
Canon 3Ti, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II, 320EX Speedlite

Trying to custom white balance and camera is saying "busy ..please wait"

cant custom white balance my 60d never had this problem before the camera is about a year old and started that today.cant figure this out and tech support didnt sound like they heard of it before.

Thanks for replying.
No, not in Auto mode. I was in Aperature mode.
I have used custom white balance many times before.
I tried the battery removal etc. No luck there.
Removed and reinserted card. No help.
I finally got out of this hangup.
I downloaded all images to PC using the Canon EOS software.
Then I deleted all images from card in camera.
Then when I set up custom white balance again, it worked just as expected.
There was a very brief flash of the "Busy..." message and then into the next step to set .
Have no clue as why this suddenly started.
Maybe struck by stray gamma ray burst
Canon 3Ti, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II, 320EX Speedlite

Lumia 810 front camera white balance and flicker

Maybe I'm expecting too much from the front camera, but it gives a purple tint to everything! Is this normal on this phone? I can manually set the whitebalence but it never looks right.
Also, I noticed it was flickering badly in low light last night. Its only my second day with the phone so I am going to do more testing tonight.
Are these normal or should I exchange the phone? The back camera has **bleep** whitebalance as well but at least I can get it to look decent.

The front-facing camera and white balance issues also occur on the Samsung Galaxy Tab.
I tried following Joe ... Ward's link http:www.adobe.com/go/wish which led me to eventually led me to "Adobe AIR Ideas website" and this link: http://ideas.adobe.com/air/ is not working: HTTP 500 Internal Server Error
Adobe, please make a note of it... we need automatic white balance "WHITE_BALANCE_AUTO" support on these tablets and mobile devices in AIR for Android!

Batch white balance and file conversion?

How can I take hundreds of .CR2 files and:
1. Apply the same white balance settings to all of them?
2. Convert them all to .JPG?
Thanks.

Bring all the images into ACR, use the Synchronize function to transfer white balance settings from one image to all, use the Save Image section to save all selected images as jpegs. There are several options, I assume you can use the help screens to figure out the details.
I suggest you experiment with a few images before trying with hundreds.
Richard Southworth

Mixing Black and White effects and color to one picture in iPhoto

is there any way to combine these to effects to have part of a picture black and white and another part color?

No, not with iPhoto. You'll need a 3rd party application like Photoshop Elements which can select areas in a photo and desaturate it, leaving the rest in color like this. This is another example of what you can do with it.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB file backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.
G5 Dual Core 2GHz, 2G RAM, 250G HD; G4 Dual 1Ghz, 1.5G RAM, 80G HD, QT 7.1.3, Mac OS X (10.4.8) 22 LCD, 200G/160G FW HDs, Canon SD700IS, i850 & LIDE 50, Epson R200, 30G iPod

RE: White Balance and Color Temperature

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