Read DVD at a slower speed?

How can I read a DVD as\t slower speeds?
I have a home made DVD which I would like to convert to MP3 (Gospel sermon from my church)
But the guy who made the DVD's for me put a CD label/sticker (like those printable ones -> like this template here ) but the genius didn't place the label to the center of the DVD.. so how when my Macbook Pro read the DVD it seems to be spinning to fast and starts to vibrate (the label is throwing it of balance a bit while it is spinning) and then I start to get a light noise & vibration from the DVD reader/drive on my laptop

I sucessfully installed Solaris 10 via the installation dvd after reburning it on a lower setting. The OS booted and works wonderfully. When I start my computer, the GRUB loader comes up and I am able to select both my Windows and Solaris operating systems to boot!
Unfortunately, when I select Windows (Vista Home Premium) from GRUB, it loads into Vista's "cannot boot windows!" dialogue. I loaded the Vista install disc and attempted a fixmbr and a system repair, but BOTH said that my filesystem was corrupt! However, I opened up a command prompt and can access not only all files on the windows partition, but can run the dos programs from the command prompt, so the drive is fully intact. Is this normal, and do I have to boot Windows Vista with GRUB in a special manner? Vista uses a different type of bootsector than previous versions, so maybe I need to configure GRUB? I know this is no longer completely a "Solaris Installation" discussion, but my problem arose from Solaris Installation, so help would be appreciated. I don't want to rewrite a second Vista over my lovely new (working!) Solaris partition. :(

Similar Messages

Can't read dvd

I have some dvds I have recorded from old movies in the past. I know the content is good, they play on a dvd player, however, they read as a blank dvd on my imac. I want to edit them...any suggestions. Some of them read...even same brand of dvd...help:-)

Welcome to discussions!
Perhaps it isn't the media you are using, but, instead the manner in which you are burning.
(Thanks to Len Goff for the copy & paste):
Suggest you create a disc image and then burn the DVD. File/Save as Disc Image...
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=164927
This will isolate any encoding/burning issues you may encounter. Once the disc image is created, double-click the .img and burn the virtual disc that should appear on your desktop, using Toast to burn the DVD. Disk Utility to burn the .img file. Usually, you can select a burning speed in Disk Utility.
There are variations to this process based on which OS X you are using...
Open Disk Utility (in Utilities folder in Applications folder), click on the virtual disc (maybe the .img) in the left-hand window. Click the Burn icon. A new window should drop down and your SuperDrive tray will open after clicking the Burn icon. Insert a recordable DVD. (Verbatim DVD-R preferred by me.) Click the Close button. Wait. Select a burn speed. If you hold your mouse cursor over the pop-up it says: "Select a slower speed to work around burn failures," so select 4x or slower for best results. Then click the Burn button.
-->If the virtual disk selection won't allow you to click the Burn icon, use the .img file instead. This may have changed in 10.3.9 and did change in Tiger.
Also, you can use DVD Player to play the virtual disk to check your iDVD project before burning to DVD. Launch DVD Player. File/Open VIDEO_TS (Open DVD Media... in Player 4.6). Find the VIDEO_TS folder and open that. (The audio folder is for DVD-Audio disks.)
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93006
Burning with the disk utility allows you to burn slower. That means a better play-back DVD.
Sue

Unable to read DVDs on iMac G4

iMac G4 Flat screen, OS 10.4.10
I can burn CDs abd DVDs using Toast Titanium 8. All these DVDs are read on other computers including PCs.
However, my iMac G4 simply ejects the DVD. CDs are read OK but the DVDs are a NO GO!
I do have a Super Drive that has worked perfectly in the past. This phenomenon is NEW.
Is is possible that it is dirty? What can it be cleaned with?
Is it also possible that the DVD Optical Drive has burned out?
If so, can it be replaced inexpensively?
Many thanks for your help.
Regards,
Dr. Mel Wilner

Have your tried a drive cleaning disc. The build up of dust can affect the much finer DVD laser/pits before the CD reading is affected.
<hr width="400">
Current iMacs, Mac Minis, MacBooks and MacBook Pros all have an 8x slot-loading Superdrive only. 18x DVD±RW DL External Firewire drives are much faster and will also handle small (8cm) or mis-shapen discs. If your issues persist I suggest you consider the investment. Given the slow speed and limitations of Superdrives in the current Intel Macs your investment will continue to be of great use even if you upgrade your computer. You can also choose to purchase a Lightscribe drive if that interests you.
UK.
US.
DIY internal drive replacements are about $35.
mrtotes

K9N2 Sli Platinum + SSD OCZ Vertex 3 = Slow Speed Problem [PARTIALLY SOLVED]

Hey folks,
I have a problem with my new SSD. I only get sequential reads of 140MB/s and writes of 114MB/s.
I think it is a driver related issue. I once got faster SATA2-like speeds but cannot reproduce the system settings again... Everything back to SATA1-like speeds after reboot.
First my pc specs:
MSI K9N2 Sli Platinum, BIOS v3.9
- 6 SATAII ports by nForce 750a SLI
- 2 ESATA (External-SATA) ports (back panel) by JMB363
- Supports storage and data transfers at up to 3 Gb/s
AMD Phenom II 965 Black
Patriot PV224G8500ELKB Viper II Series DDR2 4GB (2 x 2GB, CL5 PC-8500/1066MHz)
SSD SATAIII OCZ Vertex 3, 120GB, FW v2.11
LG Internal BlueRay BH10LS30
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I only get very slow speeds with the SSD. I tried so many things that I am getting very frustrated now, I am even thinking about getting a new board and ram just to get the SSD up to speed...
1)
I installed Win7 first with all the default settings in Windows Setup from DVD. Default "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" driver was "Standard AHCI1.0 Serial ATA Controller".
SSD was connected to SATA1-port, On-Chip Sata Controller AHCI enabled in BIOS, Extra RAID/IDE Controller disabled.
All fine, but whichever benchmark I used (AS SSD, HD Tune Pro, Atto Disk Benchmark, CrystalDiskMark; other tools used: DriveControllerInfo, AIDA64/Everest, CrystalDiskInfo ) I got e.g. 140MB/s Read and 114MB/s Write sequentially (CrystalDiskmark, similar with random data AND only zeros ).
Trim working (it seems) with AHCI driver. I also changed to nvstor64 driver (nforce driver setup 15.56), with is marginally faster but not what you would expect from a SATAIII drive on SATAII controller.
2)
I installed Win7 using "diskpart" (Shift-F10) during disk setup, setting a cluster size of 64k instead of default. No real change.
3)
After reinstall of Win7 x64 (again...), I changed from SATA1 port to SATA6 port, also enabled Extra Raid/IDE controller set to AHCI as well.
Nothing changed. With all settings to default in Windows (ahci default driver), I then manually updated the ahci to nvstore64 driver in Device Management, rebooted.
Then a minute later after reboot I got the following Sequential speeds with CrystalDiskMark:
273MB/s read and 137MB/s write (random data) + 274MB/s read and 220MB/s write (with zeros) !!!
While I ran this benchmark Windows came up with a message: "You must restart your computer to apply these changes - Restart Now/Restart Later".
After the previos reboot, when I changed manually from AHCI to NVSTORE, I had changed nothing in the current session, apart from running CrystalDiskMark.
I did reboot and I was back to the slow SSD speeds again = 140/114 MB/s...
4)
I have tried every possible combination of mainboard SATA ports, drivers changing with nvidia setup/manually, deleting and disabling controllers (incl BSOD and startup repair :D ), chaning bios settings around, but I just cannot get back the faster speeds
There is never any change in speed, whether I use ahci or nvstore64, whichever benchmark I use, whether random or zeros...
5)
Could the SSD be broken, something internally preventing it from faster speeds (with this one random exception)?
Could it be that my K9N2 SataPorts only allows for / reduced to SATA1 speeds?
Am I missing something with the driver setup?
Do I need additional drivers for the extra JMicron Controller when using SataPorts 5/6 ?
I have no other mainboard to test this with...
Please guys, I am going to jump out of the window if I can't fix it... :(
Thanks, Mike

Hey guys - problem 'solved':
I tested the OCZ SSD Vertex 3 120GB with following sata3 controller card http://www.lycom.com.tw/PE-115H.htm.
The card itself works immediately (needs at least PCIe x4 slot, will work slower otherwise but still faster than the OCZ SSD @sata1 with nvidia chipset).
There is some raid setup, doesn't apply to me, the boot even with the card is really only a few seconds longer and not annoying at all. Windows (7 x64) needed a driver, supplied on CD (which is cheap and making noise like h**l). The card works w/o the driver but doesn't harm to install it...
Also, just to clarify, this sata controller card did not need any specific setup at all. Just put it in, plug in sata cable (I use akasa sata3-rated), maybe change boot device in BIOS (I didn't even have to), done - booting Windows as usual.
Benchmark CDM with sata controller card Lycom PE-115H:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3845/cdmpe115hahci0x00.png
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/7549/cdmpe115hahcirand.png
Speed is much better than before with nvidia chipset 750a SLI controller: sata1 (sata2 whenever it randomly worked):
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/505/cdmahci0x0.png
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6258/cdmahci0x0sata6contnv64.png
Final thoughts:
Well, I am happy with the SSD speed now (PCIe limited to 5Gbps). However, I had to spent quite some time to get it working on my sata2-cabable mainboard. Finally, I had to buy a extra controller card to get it working reliably at speeds faster than sata1. There is hardly any useful information on why this problem occurs with (older) nvidia chipsets and OCZ (sata3) SSDs. I still think that OCZ must know about this problem, but regards this issue as low priority, while at the same time not planning on giving up on sales to people with nvidia chipsets. Maybe OCZ should just make a big sticker on the box the drives come in with something like "Does/Might not work with nvidia chipsets, please use third-party sata controller card or different SSD manufacturer". But then none of these potential customers would buy OCZ SSDs...
I will keep the sata3 controller, anyway handy to have, but return the OCZ Vertex 3 120GB and replace it with a SSD from a different manufacturer (Corsair Force GT, Patriot and OWC are not that great to get around here). The benchmarks for most people will not achieve the maximum advertised OCZ speeds anyway, so why not go with a brand that allows for some plug'n'play with some customer support.
Hope this post helps others like me with their nvidia chipset + sata1 speed problem
Cheers, Mike

MBP cant read DVD+RW?

Hi, When I record to a DVD+RW on my DVD recorder and then try to read the same disc on the MBP it thinks it is a blank disc? Any idea's? specs say it should be compatible?
Thanks
Bob

So much for that idea - sorry. What brand of disks are you using? And have you successfully used your MBP drive with DVD+RW's before? I'd try a different brand (Verbatim seems to be the least problematic; I've also used Imation successfully on both my Macs and the DVD recorder). And I have a case number with Applecare for my MBP's drive (60 seconds for an icon to appear on the desktop and it won't burn at my preferred slower speeds). So, it could be either the media or your drive - those two possibilities are the only other things I can think of. If you have an Apple store near you, you might want to make an appointment there.

Which Mac Pro? More cores=slower speeds? And most of us know the speed matters or FPU for music and I don't understand the faster is for the least amount of procs. And while I get the whole rendering thing and why it makes sense.

Which Mac Pro? More cores=slower speeds? And most of us know the speed matters or FPU for music and I don't understand the faster is for the least amount of procs. And while I get the whole rendering thing and why it makes sense.
The above is what the bar says. It's been a while and wondered, maybe Apple changed the format for forums. Then got this nice big blank canvas to air my concerns. Went to school for Computer Science, BSEE, even worked at Analog Devices in Newton Massachusetts, where they make something for apple.
The bottom line is fast CPU = more FPU = more headroom and still can't figure out why the more cores= the slower it gets unless it's to get us in to a 6 core then come out with faster cores down the road or a newer Mac that uses the GPU. Also. Few. I'm the guy who said a few years ago Mac has an FCP that looks like iMovie on Steroids. Having said that I called the campus one day to ask them something and while I used to work for Apple, I think she thought I still did as she asked me, "HOW ARE THE 32 CORES/1DYE COMING ALONG? Not wanting to embarrass her I said fine, fine and then hung up. Makes the most sense as I never quite got the 2,6,12 cores when for years everything from memory to CPU's have been, in sets of 2 to the 2nd power. 2,4,8,16,32,64,120,256,512, 1024, 2048,4196,8192, 72,768. Wow. W-O-W and will be using whatever I get with Apollo Quad.
Peace to all and hope someone can point us in THE RIGHT DIRECTION. THANK YOU

Thanks for your reply via email/msg. He wrote:
If you are interested in the actual design data for the Xeon processor, go to the Intel site and the actual CPU part numbers are:
Xeon 4 core - E5.1620v2
Xeon 6 core - E5.1650v2
Xeon 8 core - E5.1680v2
Xeon 12 core - E5.2697v2
I read that the CPU is easy to swap out but am sure something goes wrong at a certain point - even if solderedon they make material to absorb the solder, making your work area VERY clean.
My Question now is this, get an 8 core, then replace with 2 3.7 QUAD CHIPS, what would happen?
I also noticed that the 8 core Mac Pro is 3.0 when in fact they do have a 3.4 8 core chip, so 2 =16? Or if correct, wouldn't you be able to replace a QUAD CHIP WITH THAT? I;M SURE THEY ARE UO TO SOMETHING AS 1) WE HAVE SEEN NO AUDIO FPU OR PERHAPS I SHOULD CHECK OUT PC MAKERS WINDOWS machines for Sisoft Sandra "B-E-N-C-H-M-A-R-K-S" -
SOMETHINGS UP AND AM SURE WE'LL ALL BE PLEASED, AS the mac pro was announced Last year, barely made the December mark, then pushed to January, then February and now April.
Would rather wait and have it done correct than released to early only to have it benchmarked in audio and found to be slower in a few areas- - - the logical part of my brain is wondering what else I would have to swap out as I am sure it would run, and fine for a while, then, poof....
PEACE===AM SURE APPLE WILL BLOW US AWAY - they have to figure out how to increase the power for 150 watts or make the GPU work which in regard to FPU, I thought was NVIDIA?

Slow speeds. Apparently I don't have a bt broadban...

After using bt's own e-form to email them about my long running loss of speed over the year from 2.6mb for the last say 10 years, to 1.6mb (1.4mb at its lowest) download / 0.36 up. ping latency around 0.38 i think, apart from today where its 42.25!! what's that?!
All I've got back so far is:
"Recently you requested personal assistance from our on-line support centre. Below is a summary of your request and our response.
If this issue is not resolved to your satisfaction, you may reopen it within the next 14 days.
Thank you for allowing us to be of service to you. " ....and....
"This is in regards to the e-mail you have send on 20th August 2014. We are sorry to inform you that there is no sufficient information in the e-mail to pull up any active broadband account. We would request you to provide the details of your broadband account so that we can pull up the account and help you further."
Just to be clear, their OWN e-form didn't have enough information for them to find my account??? It asks for my name, address, phone number my broadband is on, email address, my account number (assume its the BT account as that's all I have), plus the problem. What else can I type in if there's no other fields.
So I submitted the form. A couple of days later I got an email back with the above included in it.
1. Why automatically close the call? They hadn't resolved anything, so why close it? The only other thing they mentioned was going onto their Help pages (durr how did i manage to use their e-form in the first place?).
2. No mention of what these missing "details" are. (On purpose?)
So I replied and being a little annoyed at their poor response, which just sounds like "yep dealt with that call within the response time target I got to make".
I've had BT broadband since its inception, even before, but they cannot find my account? Amazing they can bill me each quarter without any problems. So I sent my bt account number again even thought it was included in the e-form. Asked them clearly to tell me what "details" of my broadband account they need from me. More than happy to oblige. Oh, and no I'm not satisfied with their resolution and re-open the call!!
So some more days have now passed and guess what. I get an email with the exact same text!!
I replied. In CAPITAL LETTERS for the hard of hearing. What specific details do you want from me?
I wait in baited breath.
OMG I haven't even got onto the problem of the slow speed issue yet!
I guess they want me to phone (premium 0800 number?), or do something myself. I don't want to phone them as I've experienced the same ol' routine before, life's too short. I've paid the top price for ever, so I would think they could do some of the leg work eh? I mean part of the cost is the support they provide, right? How do you lose a broadband account?
It niggles me is that I pay same price infinity customers do and I'm still stuck in the dial-up speed ages. And don't get me on about those tv ads. Like everyone can get infinity. Yeah I'm still waiting after 5 years that it was coming. Amazing the Isles of Scilly with about 10 people living on there manage to get it quicker than me living in a town in the middle of the UK. I digress...
If I can do a speed test from both their bt.com site and btwholesale speed test and get a poor speed (approx 1.8 max) from exchange to router then I know by the time it gets to my pc its not going to be 2.6 is it.
PS i don't have a master socket/test socket to try. its the old type. And why has the speed just dropped and kept down (like for so many others in this forum), where nothing has changed, at least at the customers end of the line.
I don't expect someone in the forum to come up with the solution, but its more of a rant on my part at the poor response to my request, let alone some kind of investigation into the problem itself.
I work in "IT" and part of it is dealing with calls from customers. If I had dealt with a call like BT had then I'd be getting a ear bashing from my manager.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

if you want help about your conenction speed from the forum members then can you post the adsl stats from your router please.
can you try quiet line test dial 17070 option 2 should be quiet nohiss/crackle and best with corded phone if cordless then dull hum normal
can you enter your phone number and post results remember to delete number https://www.btwholesale.com/includes/adsl/main.html
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Running a mid 2009 iMac on 10.7.5, 3 gb memory, 320 gb hd. Suddenly the computer stoped reading DVDs and the only time I can read a CD is if I restart. Quite often when I insert a CD it gets stuck and I cannot get it out until I restart and it shows u

Running a mid 2009 iMac on 10.7.5, 3 gb memory, 320 gb hd.
Suddenly the computer stoped reading DVDs and the only time I can read a CD is if I restart. Quite often when I insert a CD it gets stuck and I cannot get it out until I restart and it shows up on the desktop where I can then eject it.
I have checked and double checked the finder prefs and all looks normal showing a check mark on CDs,DVDs etc. (the ones I want to show up on the desktop)
I have reset the PEAM, repaired permissions with both the disk utility on the computer and the disk utility when I start up in the Recovery Disk. I did notice that sometimes the permission repeat the same correction several times before it moves on, and sometimes it doesn’t. I have Windows installed on a partition but I keep it unmounted until it is needed for my wife’s work. The dock seems to be just fine and all the apps seems to run just fine. When I insert a photo CD iPhoto does not open but when I insert a music CD iTunes does open.
Also, most every time I open iPhoto it takes a long time(sometimes as long as 2 minutes) for it to load.
Sometimes my Mail (Mail 5.3) does not post new mail but most of the time it does.
Once and a while it seems like the computer slows way down but then it seems ok ten minutes later.
All of these ‘things’ seemed to have happen suddenly and I have not downloaded anything from the internet in some time.
Of course the warranty and extended warranty are both no longer in effect having had this computer for more than three years.
I am running Java and Adobe Player because some of the sites I go to a lot require both.

I believe that insufficient RAM may be the source of some of your problems. If you have a RAM of somewhere 4 to 8GB, you will experience smoother computing. 3GB doesn't seem right, so you might want to learn more by going to this site:
http://www.crucial.com/store/drammemory.aspx
I don't know what know what's happening with your optical drive, but it seems you use your drive quite a bit. In that case, look into a lens cleaner for your machine. It's inexpensive, works quite well.
I hope you'll post here with your results!

Slow speeds, almost dead, can't figure out what's ...

Hi all, I've had very slow speeds from my homehub for almost a week. I've tried a factory reset on the hub to no avail. I also spoke to technical support in India I think, but they were no help.
When I perform a speed check the speed from the exchange to my house is fine, it's after that it dies a death.
I've checked all cables and it is not cabling after the hub as this problem effects internet tv's that are connected via ethernet cable and others that are wireless and also tablets that work on wifi.
In the last week I have had download speeds as low as 0.03 and for only a few hours last Monday has it been OK all of a sudden. I presumed a fix elsewhere but the problem came back an hour or two later.
At the moment we can't use iplayer, youtube and every webpage takes ages to load. It's quite horrible.
Has anyone got any idea's what could be wrong and are there any diagnostic tests I can run on the hub to see if it's borked.

Hi Welcome to the community forums
Here is a basic guide to getting help from the community members done by CL Keith Please read through the link posted http://forumhelp.dyndns.info/speed/first_steps.html
once you have posted the information asked for then the community members can help you more
Thank You
This is a customer to customer self help forum the only BT presence here are the forum moderators
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Slow speed/high SNR margin after upgrade to ADSL2+...

I have an issue with slow speed that I am suspecting is caused by a high SNR margin (about 12dB) which has come about (I believe) due to the fact that my router was repeatedly reset during the first few days of the upgraded service. The exchange was upgraded to ADSL2+ on 3rd January.
I have a US Robotics 9108 which has worked fine for nearly six years. I was getting around 8Mbps before the upgrade which isn't far off the theoretical maximum.
There was a problem with my router and I only found it to be my router at fault over the last few days. Upgrading its firmware has cured the problem which was that requests weren't being fulfilled once connection had been established, (seemingly particularly when this was ADSL2+ or ADSL2 mode). Consequently, I reset my router in these instances and I believe that this will have been interpretted by the exchange as being due to line noise. In general, I disabled ADSL2 and 2+ modes on my router to force it back to G.DMT and it usually worked fine (albeit slow sync rate relative to that I had before 3rd January).
During fault conditions, the connection synced OK. I recently borrowed a router and tried it and it immediately connected faster than mine had done previously and I could access the web without issue. This confirmed that my US Robotics was at fault, and after downloading its latest firmware, it fixed the problem.
There is no bell wire as there are no hard wired extensions from the master socket. I use a single filter which plugs directly into the master socket (i.e. no extension lead to the filter).
I was using a BT filter (MF50) I got in 2004 when I first got broadband. This came with a Voyager 100 modem and is a rebranded YCL one. I have since replaced this with a Z350-UK which I have borrowed. The US Robotics didn't come with any filters.
With the BT filter, caller display does not work at all when the router is connected in ADSL2 mode. In G.DMT mode the problem with caller display was intermittent. The Z350-UK has rectified the problem with caller display not working when in ADSL2 mode. I have ordered a Pressac Interstitial VDSL Faceplate as a perminant solution.
Do I need to contact the support helpline to get this fixed? Or will the SNR margin drop over time? As I say, I got around 8Mbps before the upgrade.
I am presently connected in 2+ mode and stats are:
SNR margin (dB):
12.8
5.4
Attenuation (dB):
34.0
12.0
Output power (dBm):
0.0
12.8
Attainable rate (Kbps):
8984
1144
Rate (Kbps):
6495
1144
I have just run the BT Speed Test and the results are:
Test1 comprises of two tests
1. Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
5282 Kbps
0 Kbps
7150 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 5282 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 2000-7150 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :6495 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 1144 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 5730 Kbps
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed
938 Kbps
0 Kbps
1144 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
>Upload speed achieved during the test was - 938 Kbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 1144 Kbps
We were unable to identify any performance problem with your service at this time.
It is possible that any problem you are currently, or had previously experienced may have been caused by traffic congestion on the Internet or by the server you were accessing responding slowly.
If you continue to encounter a problem with a specific server, please contact the administrator of that server in the first instance.

once you have maintained 3 days + stable connection then you can contact the forum mods on this link and request a noise margin reset http://bt.custhelp.com/app/contact_email/c/4951
they normally reply by email or phone directly to you within 72 hours
you do not need to contact the helpline
They are a UK based BT specialist team who have a good record at getting problems solved
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SLOW SPEEDS YET AGAIN IN SHETLAND

Once again I find myself on here complaining about slow speeds. This time were down to 626kbps and I have spoken to other folk around the isles who say theres is at a crawl as well. Can we get this looked into please mods?
Latest BT speedtest results
Test1 comprises of Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
   Download Speed
   626 Kbps
0 Kbps   2000 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 626 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 400-2000 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :2592 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 448 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 2000 Kbps
Heres my router stats:
ADSL line status
Connection information
Line state
Connected
Connection time
11 days, 23:23:39
Downstream
2,592 Kbps
Upstream
448 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI
0/38
Type
PPPoA
Modulation
ITU-T G.992.1
Latency type
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up)
7.6 dB / 17.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up)
57.0 dB / 29.0 dB
Output power (Down/Up)
18.2 dBm / 12.3 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local)
0
Loss of Signal (Local)
0
Loss of Power (Local)
0
FEC Errors (Down/Up)
10692092 / 131
CRC Errors (Down/Up)
6075 / N/A
HEC Errors (Down/Up)
N/A / 91
Error Seconds (Local)
3882

Hi Shetlander,
I am sorry that you are having problems again. I have just sent you an email.
Drop me a reply when you get a chance.
Thx
Craig
BTCare Community Mod
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
We are sorry but we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)”
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I can no longer burn CDs - "may be incompatible with this disc burner, try slower speed, try another make of disc" Still doesn't work

I can no longer burn CDs - "may be incompatible with this disc burner, try a slower speed, try another make of disc" Tried that, still doesn't work.

Try a free burning utility which allows you to turn off the laser for test burning (so you don't waste media). Try burning a test CD outside of iTunes. If it works it's iTunes. If it doesn't work it could be computer software or hardware but then we know how to proceed.
List of burning software on pure-mac.com - http://www.pure-mac.com/diskfile.html
Burn - http://burn-osx.sourceforge.net/Pages/English/home.html - includes basic DVD authoring

Extremely slow speeds on Windows Computers with 5th Generation AirPort Extreme

I just got a new refurbished AirPort Extreme 5th generation. Everything works great for all of my OS X devices and iOS Devices. I am getting my ISPs speeds when doing tests. The issue is when I am using Windows devices. My roommate has a desktop and a netbook and both are getting extremely slow speeds. Speeds like .07Mbps down. Does anyone have any idea what the issue might be?

You have no large file?? Really.. in the whole computer there is not a windows update file.. a backup file... a movie download file.. nothing.. ??
Anyway that is irrelevant.. the issue is wireless.
Download the latest drivers from the wireless manufacturer.
You will need to find out what wireless card is used and locate the correct download for that model.
On the Airport it is well worth doing the following tests.
1. Change the name to SMB standard.. short no spaces pure alphanumeric.
So if your wireless name is Fred Blog's Airport Extreme wireless
Plesae change it to AEwifi
2. Take off all security for a test.
3. Set channels.. I am guessing the computers are only using 2.4ghz, so set 11,6, 1 in that order.
No improvement.. just put the security back to WPA2 Personal with pure alphanumeric password..
Try and test new drivers and use no firewalls on the computer.. ensure that the computer is correctly set for home network.
Beyond that it is just incompatible.

Broadband slow speed,ongoing since end of april

Hi,i have been suffering slow speeds and dropping out since end of april,i have had 9 engineers out,but still no wiser.
I use a desk top and laptop and have problems on both,running at 8 meg,cant open web pages,or do internet shopping,engineer blames the websites.
i am a 2 min walk from the exchange,
if i take my laptop to my sisters 4 miles away it works fine,and shes only on 2 meg.
I had an it consultant round who did a ping test from laptop to router,and router to exchange,laptop to router was fine,but the router to exchange keeps timing out 19 times in 5 mins,where as my sisters did it once in 40 mins.
i have opened a little square bt box from my socket box to the wiring outside,wiring looks in poor condition with wires not actually connected to anything,engineers say that wouldnt affect it,

Hi Efcpaul
I can take a look at this for you.
Send an email to [email protected] with your BT account number, telephone number and a link to this thread.
Cheers
Stuart
BTCare Community Mod
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MacBook Pro(Early 2011) extremely slow speed on Yosemite(10.10.2)

Hi All,
I installed and then reinstalled a fresh Yosemite But now i am experiencing issues like very slow speed of the OS & fan continuously ON. Mavericks was working fine.
this is my ertecheck report
EtreCheck version: 2.1.8 (121)
Report generated 1 April 2015 12:03:11 am IST
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
    MacBook Pro (13-inch, Early 2011) (Technical Specifications)
    MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8,1
    1 2.7 GHz Intel Core i7 CPU: 2-core
    10 GB RAM Upgradeable
        BANK 0/DIMM0
            2 GB DDR3 1333 MHz ok
        BANK 1/DIMM0
            8 GB DDR3 1333 MHz ok
    Bluetooth: Old - Handoff/Airdrop2 not supported
    Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
    Battery Health: Replace Soon - Cycle count 1329
Video Information: ℹ️
    Intel HD Graphics 3000 - VRAM: 512 MB
        Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ℹ️
    OS X 10.10.2 (14C1514) - Time since boot: 4:1:57
Disk Information: ℹ️
    Hitachi HTS545050B9A302 disk0 : (500.11 GB)
        EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
        Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
        MacHDD_2 (disk0s4) /Volumes/MacHDD_2 : 349.63 GB (118.65 GB free)
        MacHDD_1 (disk1) / : 149.11 GB (104.40 GB free)
            Core Storage: disk0s2 149.48 GB Online
    MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-898
USB Information: ℹ️
    Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
    Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
    Apple Inc. BRCM2070 Hub
        Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
    Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
    Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
    Mac App Store and identified developers
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist [Click for support]
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.google.keystone.agent.plist [Click for support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
    iTunesHelper    Application (/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunesHelper.app)
    Google Chrome    Application Hidden (/Applications/Google Chrome.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
    Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
    QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
    SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.4.8 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
    None
Time Machine: ℹ️
    Mobile backups: OFF
    Auto backup: NO - Auto backup turned off
    Volumes being backed up:
        MacHDD_1: Disk size: 149.11 GB Disk used: 44.71 GB
    Destinations:
        MacHDD_2 [Local]
        Total size: 349.63 GB
        Total number of backups: 0
        Oldest backup: -
        Last backup: -
        Size of backup disk: Adequate
            Backup size 349.63 GB > (Disk used 44.71 GB X 3)
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
        26%    Microsoft Outlook
        12%    coreaudiod
         6%    Google Chrome
         3%    WindowServer
         1%    launchservicesd
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
    215 MB    mds_stores
    193 MB    Google Chrome
    183 MB    Google Chrome Helper
    129 MB    iTunes
    107 MB    Microsoft Outlook
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
    5.04 GB    Free RAM
    3.41 GB    Active RAM
    698 MB    Inactive RAM
    1.59 GB    Wired RAM
    4.71 GB    Page-ins
    0 B    Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
    Mar 31, 2015, 07:59:25 PM    Self test - passed

Try these in order testing your system after each to see if it's back to normal:
1. a. Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
    b. Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
2. Restart the computer in Safe Mode, then restart again, normally. If this doesn't help, then:
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the Utilities menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
3. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
4. Reinstall Yosemite: Reboot from the Recovery HD. Select Reinstall OS X from the Utilities menu, and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.
5. Reinstall Yosemite from Scratch:
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
How to Clean Install OS X Yosemite
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.

Read DVD at a slower speed?

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