Ready to take it one higher ...need advice on best way to get more audio in

Nearly ready to upgrade to LP7...need advice on more gear.
Longtime Logic user, my old rig running with an Audiowerk 8 card (dont laugh too hard please, its worked great for years! ).
Now, after purchasing a MBP and LE7 ... how best to upgrade even further, to be able to record say 4-8 tracks (live instrument) at a time, into the optical or Firewire ports. I have an external 750Gb FW drive.
Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
Unfortunately, all of the boxes and gizmos Ive looked at so far seem to duplicate functions I already have, esp mic preamps (dont need any more of those !). I prefer 19" rackmount devices as they work well with portability, and fit into my SKB rig easily.
TIA

Also have a Mackie 16 chnl mixer and hoping to find a way to send the
Master stereo pair (or maybe even track inserts) from the Mackie to the
optical or FW input of my MBP. But how to do this ? Im guessing there's
a box or gizmo somewhere that would be perfect.
if you really want to use the pre's on your mackie, and it has multiple bus/aux outputs which I presume it does, then you can easily set up a device such as the 828 to take all your input channels from the mackie, and then to run a bunch of return pairs back out to it.
depending on your budget there are prob a few others for you to look at. RME and metric halo always get rave reviews from users, but are pricier. also the focusrite sapphire might be worth a look, as well as the apogee ensemble.
also I just noticed you are using logic express, not pro. so there may be some limitations on the number of simultaneous inputs and outputs that I'm unaware of.

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Need advice on "best" way to prepare book cover for printing

This newbie has created a front cover, back cover, and spline in Photoshop Elements with multiple layers consisting of a background image of a mountain, text, and on the front cover, an airplane. I've combined the three parts into a wraparound cover within a single indd file, which I've exported to PDF for upload to Amazon's CreateSpace (CS) for a print-on-demand book.
CS instructions say to "flatten" the cover. I've researched the term and found forum discussions that mention "raster" and "vector" and the pros and cons of different options for preparing a layered image for printing. I'm aware of the cautions about flattening being an irreversible process, and to never do that to a master copy. Beyond that, to say I'm confused would be an understatement.
I realize this is an InDesign forum, but I'm seeking advice on whether there are actions I should take in Elements before placing the three parts of the cover into the InDesign document for converting to PDF. For example, should I flatten them within Elements before placing them in the InDesign document, then convert to PDF? Or is it better to do that on the complete cover within InDesign?
Any assistance on clearing up this fog would be appreciated.

The print-on-demand site's instruction to flatten really has no direct relationship to InDesign, Peter. They don't say anything about what application you should use prior to creating the pdf, and that's what generated my original plea for help as to whether it would be best to flatten the individual images within PSE before placing them into InDesign, wait until they are combined and then do it, or if it is even necessary to do that at all.
I've been doing some additional reading on the CreateSpace forum and found a couple of very detailed (translation: too detailed for me) discussions on the differences in the output based on how you tell Adobe to create the pdf. I also found the following buried in the Help section:
                  Check the PDF settings that will be used to create your PDF file. If available, select "PDF/X-1a," "High-Quality Print" or "Press Quality" from the list of presets. If your system allows, make sure the following settings are chosen. Any other settings should be left to default in most cases.
                  Fonts and images are embedded.
                  Bookmarks, annotations, and comments are disabled.
                  Document security (any type) is not used.
                  PDF/X format is used. PDF/X is preferred, but if you are submitting non-PDF/X files (for example, PDF/A), any comments, forms, or other non-printing objects could be removed during our review process.
                  Transparent objects are flattened.
                  Spreads and printer's marks are disabled.
                  Downsampling, or decreasing resolution, of images is disabled.
                  Bleeds are enabled (if applicable).
                  Click "Export" or "OK" in the export dialog box.
                  Once created, make sure to open the PDF file to see that it appears as you intended. Otherwise, make the necessary adjustments in the native document and re-create the PDF file.
The mention of "High Quality Print" in the first line and the fact that it was InDesign's default setting for export left me with the impression that I didn't need to do anything other than export the cover and it would be in compliance with the requirements. Then when I read on the other forum about what each of the settings does to output, and all this discussion about which setting is best, I wasn't sure if the comment about flatttening applied to my output pdf or not.
As for bleed, yes, and I hope my math is correct in calculating the spline width for cream b&w paper, 374 total pages, trim size of 5.25x8, and a bleed of .125" all the way around, which increases the InDesign document by .25" in width and height over the trim size. I fully expect to have to do all that again, but such is life in the fast lane.

Need advice about best way to update current AEBS network ...

Here's my current set up -- AT&T DSL service via a DSL modem (DSL modem is original to our DSL service, which means its 7 years old. I'd like to replace, but not from AT&T as they want to charge me $75 to buy a new one from them which seems crazy). Modem is connected via ethernet to an AEBS. iMac G5 running snow leopard is connected via ethernet to AEBS. The AEBS creates a wireless network, which is extended by one Airport Express, which is also connected to our home stereo, and used to stream music wirelessly. Have a PS3 that is connected via ethernet to the Airport Express, and have had some success streaming video from iMac to PS3 via MediaLink but network often bogs down. We also have an Intel MacBook running Snow Leopard.
Here's my question -- the fastest DSL service we can get from AT&T is their basic (1.5 mbps down/384 kbps up), but our wireless network often doesn't achieve those speeds and/or is subject to interference from neighbor's phone, microwave, etc. I'd like to figure out what equipment upgrades I can make that will increase the performance of our current network, and also allow us to stream video from iMac/Macbook to the PS3.
What equipment upgrades would you make and why? Thanks for the suggestions.

Welcome to the discussions!
In a nutshell, the best "equipment upgrade" would be in your wiring.
Is it possible to connect the PS3 and any other devices directly to the AEBS using ethernet? Your computers need to connect via ethernet as well if you are looking for the best network performance.
If you can't run the ethernet cable, take a look at ethernet powerline adapters. These won't work as well as a dedicated ethernet run...but they would be much faster and a lot more reliable than wireless.
Although you have the PS3 now connected to the ethernet port on the AX, the signal still must pass via wireless from the AEBS to the AX. There's a 10-20% bandwidth loss in the "extend a wireless network" transition and even more bandwidth loss again in the wireless back to ethernet transition. Don't mean to be critical, but this the slowest hookup you could choose. It would be faster if you simply allowed the PS3 to connect to the AX using wireless.
Wireless airspace is already overcrowded and will get much worse. Not much hope there, I'm afraid. 5 GHz wireless signals may offer a bit of relief from interference, but the signals do not travel or penetrate as effectively as 2.4 GHz, so it's almost a "line of sight" type of thing. I'm not sure if the PS3 would even handle 5 GHz or not. Might be worth experimenting a bit if it does.
Bottom line, your equipment is fine. A faster internet service would help. You might look at cable if it is available in your area.

Need advice on best way to acquire multiple vibration waveforms from a PXI-4472 board

I'm using a PXI-4472 board to acquire vibration data from 8 proximity probes, each with different scaling. Confused as to best approach to achieve this given all the options with MAX, LabView and its Sound & Vibration toolset scaling. Reading other posts, it appears that 24 bit acquisition also requires some special treatment.
This acquisition needs to be done continuously.
As an additional side note, I will eventually need to synchronize these channels with the channels on 2 other 4472 boards.
Any advice on how to use MAX in combination with LabView's AI CONFIG, START, READ, CLEAR and scaling
for this application would be greatly appreciated.
All the best,
Hunter

Hello Hunter --
In regards to your questions...
For scaling, I would recommend using either MAX or the Sound and Vibration Toolset (SVT) scaling, but not both together. The SVT is a bit more flexible, and in general I prefer that. One other thing to keep in mind about MAX is that virtual channels for accelerometers and microphones provide an option to control IEPE excitation, but in fact this can only be set from LabVIEW for the 4472.
24 bit acquisition does not require any special treatment if you are only reading the scaled (i.e. voltage or engineering unit) data. If you use the binary array option for AI read, you will only receive the top 16 bits.
If you use the SVT scaling, you should not worry about MAX at all. If you you do define virt
ual channels in MAX for scaling, you should simply wire a channel array with those channel names into AI Config. Other than this, what you do in MAX should not change how you write the LabVIEW code.
Please see the attached example for synchronizing PXI-4472s.
Hope this helps!
Bryan
Attachments:
PXI_4472_Continuous_Synchronized_AI.vi ‏156 KB

I have an 8gb iPhone 4 and i need more space, is there a way to get more space rather then buying a whole new phone?

I have an 8gb iPhone 4 and i need more space, is there a way to get more space rather then buying a whole new phone?

No. Sell the 8gb and buy one with more capacity.

HT3775 I NEED I TUNES FOR A 64 BIT PC. OPERATING SYSTEM IS WINDOWS 8, NON TOUCH SCREEN. WHICH IS THE ABSOLUTELY BEST WAY TO GET ITUNES OPERATING CORRECTLY ON MY PC????//I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL THINGS, NONE OF WHICH ARE WORKING. IS ITUNES DELIBERATELY EXCLUDI

I cannot get itunes to work/install on myPC. I am running windows 8 in a 64 bit machine. I also want to purchase books via itunes for my Nook. Are you deliberately excluding PC owners so we cannot use ituens on our computers???? I have selected a community but have no idea what community I should be working with. Can somone explai these communities to me? Also. you don't allow much time to go thru the sign up process. I had to start over SEVERAL times as you kept timing me out. Jesus...when people are signing up for the first time, we have no idea of the questions that will be asked. Give us a break and give us time to sign up. Not everone is disability free and able to go thru your process quickly...you are NOT user friendly. You should be for people who are wanting to join your community. I used to want an Apple product but now that I have had first hand experience with your web page, I think I will probably stay away from Apple products. VERY DISAPPOINTING

Jan 11, 2014 10:26 AM Re: I NEED I TUNES FOR A 64 BIT PC. OPERATING SYSTEM IS WINDOWS 8, NON TOUCH SCREEN. WHICH IS THE ABSOLUTELY BEST WAY TO GET ITUNES OPERATING CORRECTLY ON MY PC????//I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL THINGS, NONE OF WHICH ARE WORKING. IS ITUNES DELIBERATELY EXCLUDING
Re: I NEED I TUNES FOR A 64 BIT PC. OPERATING SYSTEM IS WINDOWS 8, NON TOUCH SCREEN. WHICH IS THE ABSOLUTELY BEST WAY TO GET ITUNES OPERATING CORRECTLY ON MY PC????//I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL THINGS, NONE OF WHICH ARE WORKING. IS ITUNES DELIBERATELY EXCLUDING PC'S in response to Birdlover1
Post over in the iTunes for Windows forum, here:
https://discussions.apple.com/community/itunes/itunes_for_windows
sebastian

I have downloaded a Audio Book from Itunes Store, but rencently i have had to reinstall windows, is there any way to re-download the audio book from Itunes, i know that the audio books are one time downloads, but is there any way to get the audio book

I have downloaded a Audio Book from Itunes Store, but rencently i have had to reinstall windows, is there any way to re-download the audio book from Itunes, i know that the audio books are one time downloads, but is there any way to get the audio book back as i have already paid for it once and i would not like to pay for it twice.

If you haven't got a backup copy and if it's still in the store then you can try contacting iTunes support and see if they will grant you a re-download (there is no guarantee that they will) : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page

I am moving from Southern California to Maui, Hawaii and I need to figure out the best way to get my 24 inch iMac across the ocean. Does anyone know the best way to do this?

I am moving from Southern California to Maui, Hawaii and I need to figure out the best way to get my 24 inch iMac across the ocean. Does anyone know the best way to do this? I have found GearGrip's LCD harness so that I can do carry-on onto the plane... Or maybe use a Pelican Case to do it as a "checked bag"? Or any other suggestions??! Please help!
Thanks so much!!

I don't recommend you send the iMac in a checked bag. Might get damaged.
Check the airlines website for carry on guidelines.
Or, if you have the original box that the iMac came in, if you have someone who can pick up the iMac for you, send it ahead Fed Ex and insure the package.
Just make sure the display is covered to protect it. A blanket perhaps.
Aloha ...

HT5621 My husband and I both have iPhone 5. We currently share the same apple I'd. How do we get separate ones. Him keeping his and me getting a new one? What is the best way to go about doing this?

My husband and I both have iPhone 5. We currently share the same apple I'd. How do we get separate ones. Him keeping his and me getting a new one? What is the best way to go about doing this?

FAQ apple id http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5622?viewlocale=en_US

Best way to get high quality menus?

Please save me from hours or days of experimenting and give me the benefit of your experience. What's the best way to get good looking text in SD DVD projects. I normally make simple menus wih overlays in Photoshop exporting to DVDSP as flattened .psd or jpegs. Sometimes I generate text in DVDSP and just have the text change colour when selected and activated. The only thing I've noticed there is that certain color settings look edgy when the button (text) is selected but I assume that's just a shortcoming of doing it this way. Apart from that the quality looks OK but not briliant. What's the recommended way of doing it, can't find anything in he manual.
Thanks.

You can get good results with the Photoshop method, make sure to use larger fonts (20pts+), Sans-Serif, flatten all the layers, rasterize text etc. (Sounds ike you have the last part down.)
Make sure the menu is the proper size and do not let DVD SP scale it. If you are using one of the presets (NTSC, NTSC widescreen, etc) from Photoshop, etc it works well. I prefer picts or tifs, would avoid jpegs.
Not sure what the pixel dimensions are, but make sure they are proper (in other words you do not want DVD SP to rescale at all) Not sure which format you bought in (JPG, PICT, TIFF). Also there can be a hit depending on how you make the menu - in a nutshell DVD SP 4 has certain instances (not all) where menus will have to be compiled/rendered (Pg 230 of the PDF), but other things are not.
Some combinations of colors can look bad (e.g., white on black, bright red) and pure white should be avoided.
I usually make my menus in Motion as of now, export in an uncompressed codec then encode to a m2v as a background (even if it is only a "still") then use that as the background with a still at the end as the option.

I'm ready to upgrade to an iMac. need advice, please.

i'm a designer/photographer.
i always have 3+ CS6 apps open, as well as lightroom, acrobat, and the web. i don't do video but am thinking more about it.
i store and manipulate a lot of RAW photos.
i am going to get an imac, but unsure how much to upgrade it. right now i have an early mac pro tower w/ 1tb drive that is almost full. i think that in the next 4+ years i'll need at *least* another tb.
Two questions:
1. i really only want a 21.5" imac but i'm not sure i can get enough storage without going for the 27".
can i?
2. if i *have* to go for the 27", which sounds better for my needs... the 3tb fusion or 512 flash?
thank you.

If you are a serious designer and photographer and want to get into video in the future, then your only REAL option is to go for a higher end, 27 inch screen iMac.
Get a 27 inch screen model with the fastest i7 CPU, either the 2 or 4 GB VRAM GPU will be more than enough for graphics, photos and video work.
I am on the fence on the fusion drives at this time as there have been postings about slowdowns when using for either video work and/or 3D animation work.
IF you can afford either the 512 GB or 1 TB Flash drive, go for one of those options.
Get a 27 inch screen iMac with the base 8 GBs of RAM and install cheaper, Mac compatible third party RAM.
The 27 inch iMac models are the only ones that still have user installable RAM and the 27 inch screen models can take a max. of 32 GBs of RAM.
IF you need an optical drive, you need to budget for one of these as the new iMacs no longer have bulit-in optical drives.
Make sure to budget for 3-year extended AppleCare.
Also, budget for two external drives. One either a large storage (2-4 TB ) fast data connected (USB 3.0 or THunderbolt) standard hard. drive OR another SSD in an external enclosure for normal everyday working storage.
The other external drive needs to be used exclusively for a data backup drive.
Good Luck!

I need advice on first certification to get.

5 years experience, check what the old MCDST is called now, you will be able to pass the first exam fairly easily, and that gets you an MCP to add to the CV :o)CompTia has its place, but it will all depend on what you wish to end up doing ?for me, I would prefer to do that pairing game, match two certs, run a pros n cons against both, and select a winner to add to the wish list ie - Network+ v CCNAfor me, CCNA FTW as it is a far more relevant ticket to hold, and even though Cisco isn't the onlygame on the network today, it still has a lot of boxes out thereNetwork+ is hardware agnostic, and in reality the exam is 100 questions with 4 options, so is effectively a memory test, albeit one you have to get through inquite a fast rate, so read - reread and answer and move on, no time to think, you would need to know it dead, but still no...

Hello everyone I really need some advice on what certification to get. I am currently a help desk tech and I don't have any certs. The bad part is I have been doing the same job for 5 years. I am really good at my job but I think its time for me to move ahead. I am currently trying to decide between A+, Network+ and Security +. I have gotten complacent with my current job because of the nice environment and the people I work with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

Need advice on best approach for Time Machine on Macbook

I have several external disks attached to my iMac, one of which is the Time Machine disk for that computer. I just got a Macbook for my wife and I am trying to figure out the best way to use Time Machine with it. I am thinking the easiest would be to add another external hard disk to my iMac, make it sharable and have the Macbook Time Machine backup over the wireless network to that disk. That way it can back up no matter where it is in the house.
But I am new enough to the Mac that I don't know if that is 1) possible 2) the easiest. I got the sense that I could buy an Airport and attach a hard disk to that but it seemed like a kind of expensive solution.
Any comments/ideas? I am trying to do this as simply as possible without it costing a bunch.

bobmcgraw
Yes, in theory. This is exactly how i have been using time machine... however I have just come up against a major issue with this.
I was backing up my Macbook Air, by using a drive attached to my iMac, and the iMac was sharing the drive. I could happily connect, and configure time machine on the Macbook to use the drive, and away it went.....
Looking at the drive itself, I had a folder for my imac backups... and for the Macbook there was a 'sparsebundle' image.
All seemed well, and Time Machine functioned as expected on the Macbook Air.
The problem occurred when I decided to replace my Macbook Air with a new macbook. Once I had set up the new machine, I thought I could use the time machine backup to restore the new macbook with the old macbook Air's details (in much the same way as I would assume that I could restore back to a new unit if the old machine had failed).
Even with the time machine volume mounted on the new Macbook, the 'sparsebundle' Macbook air was simply not recognised as a backed up machine. Whenever I tried to use the migration assistant to restore back my data, the ONLY time machine backup that it would find on my Time Machine drive was the iMac's one... not the Macbook Air's.
So.... in short... If you chose this option, It is fine for backing up, and restoring as far as it goes... but beware if you ever need to restore the machine in its entirety using migration assistant or the like - as it doesn't seem to work.
Now I have discovered this, I really need to re-think my setup - perhaps share the volume by plugging it into my Airport Extreme Base Station.
The unfortunate situation is that the current backup is absolutely useless in its present form, as one of the things I need to protect myself against is machine failure,and I need to be able to restore a new machine to look like the old one. In this situation I was able to connect BOTH old and new macbooks to the network, and use migration assistant to migrate from one to the other. All was well there, but this would not have been an option if I did not have access to both machines.

Need advice on best setup for Extreme and Express w/ (n only) network

I'd like to get some advice on the best setup for my situation. I've read a number of posts on WDS, Extending a Network, etc. and, unfortunately, I'm now more confused than ever.
We have an Airport Extreme 802.11n using WPA2 Personal, 2.4Ghz (n only connection) which I've found to give us the best range/connection speeds for the following devices (all computers running 10.5.5, Apple TV's using most current update):
(2) MacBooks
iMac
(2) AppleTVs
The good news we have a large house, the bad news we have a large house. Meaning of course that I don't get the range in parts of the house I'd like to. I also have an older Mini (G4) connected to the AEBS thru ethernet (the Mini acts as the iTunes server for the ATVs).
I just bought a new Airport Express with the desire to place it on the other side of the house to both enhance the range of the wireless network and to provide another wired to wireless connection to the network.
I initially merely chose to "Extend a wireless network" but that seems to have a MAJOR adverse impact on the speeds of the wireless network. dropping the streaming to one of the ATV by like 90%. I would like to maintain the security settings I have as well as the 2.4Ghz (n only) since these provide the best speed/connection range on the AEBS.
My question then is what is the best way to use the AX (WDS? Bridge?).

The best way to use it is the option you chose "Extend a wireless network".
WDS forces you to the much slower 802.11g and even cuts that bandwidth in half.
Operating as a bridge has nothing to do with wirelessly extending a network. Changing this option won't have any effect on wireless bandwidth.

Need advice about best characterset for XMLDB

Hi,
Oracle 9.2.0.5 Windows 2000
Please, give me an advice about best character set
configuration for XML DB.
During installation Oracle istallator suggests
charset =AL32UTF8 for multilingual data and ncharset=
AL16UTF16.
Is it good settings for database, which will be
used for usual multilingual data and XML DB ?
Thanks,
Viacheslav

Yes, we strongly recommend the use of AL32UTF8 for XML DB.

Ready to take it one higher ...need advice on best way to get more audio in

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