Really dumb question about defaultlistmodel

having a mental block, but i have a defaultlistmodel and i would like to make a copy of it. something like:
myListmodel2 = myListModel1.clone()
?????????

and also colours.. why is there no:
myColour2 = myColour1.clone();
or
myColour2 = new Color(myColour);
I have had to do:
mycolour2 = new Color(mycolour2.getred(), mycolour2.getGreen(), mycolour2.getBlue());
so mysterious......

Similar Messages

Really dumb question about linewidth

I feel like I already knew this answer, so maybe I'm slowly losing it... but how can I change the linewidth when drawing with awt.Graphics?
I looked through all the methods and found nothing. it's driving me crazy!!

Line width? I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean the setFont() method to resize the font you're using?
Font font = new Font("Monospace", Font.PLAIN, 36);
g.setFont(font);
g.drawString("Hello world!", 20,20);

This maybe a really dumb question...

I know this maybe a really dumb question but I do need to ask:
-Do I need to buy a new vista to install on my new mac?
(I have a start up one that was included with my previous pc laptop..)
-In terms of partitioning, how should I distribute space?
Thank you in advance.

jlee636:
The Boot Camp installation guide is [HERE|http://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp>. It should be able to answer questions related to installation. Of course these discussions have several other information on boot camp/ windows. All you need to do is launch a search on them.
-In terms of partitioning, how should I distribute space?
Too many people make a partition very small and then regret having done so. My recommendation is to have a partition of at least 32GB. It is highly dependent on what your will be installing on Windows XP/Vista.
-Do I need to buy a new vista to install on my new mac?(I have a start up one that was included with my previous pc laptop..)
It is more than likely that the Windows disk that came with your previous PC/Laptop is an OEM disk and will only work properly with that particular PC. This is generally the case with Dell, HP, Sony etc. The installation disk in the cases above are usually branded.
For more information on which Windows version(s) work with Boot Camp then please click [HERE|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.5/en/11889.html].
Axel F.

Dumb question about browser dectection

I have a web application that looks awesome in IE but in Firefox it looks clunky and blocky. What I need to perform is a validation to see what browser the client is using. I have done this before on simple html pages javascript browser sniffing. Well it seems that I can't for the life of me to be able to get this working in Creator.
My web project is a Sun Creator Web application. My OS is Windows
Does anyone have any idea or references that you could supply to me?
The following code works in an html environment but in a jsp I cant get the different style sheets to work.
document.write("<link id="link1" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/WebDemoExtractor/resources/introductionFireFox.css" /> ");
U jave tried many variations of the following
document.write("<ui:link binding='#{introduction.link2}' id='link2' url='/resources/introductionFireFox.css'/>")
I have tried performing many variations with the the above and I have had no success.
Is it even possible to perform this function??
Thank you

jackiepanpan wrote:
Not a dumb question at all.
I think you mean how is it possible to view YouTube videos in Safari on iPad, right?
Basically, YouTube senses the browser you're using. Because Safari on iPad doesn't support Flash, YouTube delivers the movie in a format the iPad can play (like H.264, as a previous post mentioned). This happens with YouTube videos embedded on other web sites, too.
I hope this helps.
I was in an Apple Store a few days ago, and a teenage kid really wanted an iPad. His dad said, "but it doesn't play flash, so you won't get to see YouTube videos that you love." Kid said, something expletive deleted.
The son then picked up the iPad, and he clicked on the YouTube icon. Walked out of the store with it. Sales guy and I laughed. Made my day.

Probably a really dumb question...but so am I

Just bought a brand new iMac (specs below). Old one? Panther (3.10.9), 1 GHz, 2 RAM, 80 GB space)
Keeping the old iMac. A perfectly good machine. Only reason I bought a new one: kind of maxed out regarding my primary use of a computer...home music recording. Just needed more space, power, speed, etc.
Question: Before I call the phone company (our ISP: ATT), want your advice.
Can I just hook up two computers (both iMacs, one old, one new), on the same telephone line (a land line...this would be the only phone line coming into the house), and have them work? Or, would the ISP, the telephone company, charge us more for doing this? Meaning operating two computers on the same line simultaneously. (Forget about wireless here. Don't use it, not sure that I will anytime soon.)
Why couldn't I just plug in the other computer into a phone jack in another room in the house and have it work while the other one, in another room but using the same phone line, is running at the same time? Both simultaneously. (Sure, I'd need a modem for each machine going into the ethernet port.)
As I said, possibly a dumb question. On the other hand, I'm pretty dumb too.
Thoughts, advice, suggestions? Greatly appreciated.

It's probably connecting to a broadband modem (DSL or ADSL). That device allows you to get the high speed internet going on using the same phone jack in your house, and connects to the computer through an ethernet cable.
"Old school" or dial-up modems are traditionally built into the computer or plug into a USB port, and then use a normal phone cord (same thing other phones in the house use). Aside from being super slow, your line is usually busy and you're unable to make/receive calls when you're online.
I'm guessing you're connecting to a broadband modem (since you mentioned ethernet cable). With that in mind, the answer is yes, you can hook both those computers up so they can be online at the same time. What you need is what's called a router or switch, and they're not very expensive. One line connects to your broadband modem, then you have 3-4 jacks that you can plug additional computers in (so they can all use the connection at once).
If you want to have the machines in different rooms but don't want to run wires everywhere, look for a wi-fi router, which will usually give you a few jacks for connecting computers that don't have wi-fi but will also let you do a wireless internet hookup for your new iMac, the old one (if it has wi-fi), and even iPhones if you have 'em.
Apple has two products that might work for you. The Airport Extreme Base Station has super-fast wifi plus jacks for plugging computers in via ethernet, and even lets you share a printer. http://www.apple.com/airportextreme/ The Time Capsule does all that, and also has a built in hard drive (you can get with a 1TB or 2TB hard drive), which is great for using Time Machine. We've had a Time Capsule since they first came out and love it - super easy to set up, and all the backup stuff just happens without having to worry about it.
Hope that helps!

Dumb question about cycling a battery. Sorry!

I just received by new mac book pro replacement battery today and I have some questions regarding it. First of all, my original battery lasted 2 yrs, 2 mos. I purchased another apple battery for my 15 inch mac book pro (computer originally purch. Aug. 2007). I've seen on these boards that I'm supposed to "cycle" the battery once a week to get the maximum life out of it. I think a cycle means using the battery until it's power is used up and then charge up to 100% again. Is that right? Anyway, my question is, "What is the proper care for this new battery? Does it damage it to have it plugged in when it is fully charged? Or should I always keep it unplugged and use the battery until it runs out and then charge it again? And what does it mean to cycle it once a week, if I'm already using the battery and recharging it when needed?" Sorry if these are dumb questions. I'm not really computer savvy! Thanks.

You should use the battery for a while every day but not drain it right down, before re-connecting the power and re-charging it to 95%+ this is not a complete cycle but partial/normal cycling.
_Every couple of months_ you should re-calibrate the battery which means you keep using it until it goes into emergency sleep itself (you will see a warning then 5 minutes later it will go off by itself) and then _leave it in this state for at least 5 hours_ before you re-connect the power supply and fully charge it (without unplugging) - this is a proper re-calibration.

Maybe a dumb question, about which power connectors to use, but....

This may sound like an incredibly dumb question, but here goes anyway....
I upgraded my system a few weeks ago, and will be slapping in a new ATI X850 Pro AGP card in a few days. My current graphics card is a p.o.s. Radeon 9550, so it doesn't have its own power connector or even a fan. My PSU is a dual-rail Antec model, and I'm wondering if it should matter any about how many or which devices I have connected to each power cable set. My psu came with cables to attach, only 2 of the 4 though are the 4-pin molex - the other 2 are pci-e power connectors I believe. Should it make a difference which or how many devices I connect to each cable? For ease of plugging in, I believe my DVDRW and CDRom are using 1 cable, and my ide drive and floppy are using the other cable. Also, I have a pci fan and a case fan running off 1 or the other. I'm likely to jump the power cable for the video card off the one the hard drive is using, unless someone has some suggestion to offer to the contrary.
If it makes a difference, can anyone recommend how they would have them connect?
My list of devices to plug in would be:
1)IDE HDD
2)Floppy
3)CDRom
4)DVDRW
5)Case Fan
6)PCI Fan
7)Video Card
Thanks for any thoughts! SAB - you seem to be the man on builds.....any ideas?

Well, I put the new card in and connected it on a cable with the optical drives. Also, I had unwittingly connected my cdrom on the same ide channel as my hdd , so I changed that so both optical drives are on the secondary ide.
So far, so good. 3dMark03 jumped up from 3300 with an overclocked Radeon 9550 to 10570 with the stock Radeon 850 Pro
I wish I could find some local source to purchase additional molex cords for my Antec SmartPower 2.0 psu, though - I've got 2 more 'outlets' just sitting there on the psu doing nothing, because the other cables are for pci-e, and I'm not using pci-e...... If I could buy some additional molex cables to plug in like the ones that came with it, I could have the vid card on its own cable....

A dumb question about wifi...

I'm not as 'literate' as some are when it comes to computer technology...but here is the question...If I walk into a place that has wifi and my iphone is set with wifi ON, how will I know if there is a charge for using the wifi? Will my iphone automatically kick into the wifi or will there appear an invitation to pay a fee to connect...and how do you pay and do you have to have a password and if so, how do you get that? I know....dumb question...Thanks.

Not a dumb question at all.
First of all, set your iPhone up like this:
1) Go to Settings on the main screen (looks like gears)
2) Click on "Wi-Fi" (second option from the top)
3) At the bottom of this page (Which should say "Wi-Fi Networks" at the top) turn "Ask to Join Networks" to the "ON" position.
Now when you walk into a place that has Wi-Fi, your iPhone will display a little window that asks you whether you want to join the network or not.
In some places, you may even see a list of more than one Wi-Fi network to join. This is quite common in New York City. The reason is because so many people have Wi-Fi in there apartments, and they all live so close together, that sometime your iPhone can detect multiple networks. The coffee shop near my apartment has their own network, but I can also connect to the Wi-Fi network in my apartment because I only live about 50 feet away.
Anyway, when you see the list of Networks to join, you may notice a little padlock symbol next to some of them. This means these are closed networks that require a password to connect to. (My network is "Closed", ie requires a password so that everyone in the coffee shop next door doesn't use my internet).
Networks that DO NOT have the little lock symbol are "Open" which means you can join them without a password. But there is a catch... A lot of coffee shops have open networks, but as soon as you try to browse the web, they redirect your browser to their own page, no matter what web address you enter. Basically, they are letting you connect to their network without a password, but not letting you browse the internet without giving them some money.
So (as the previous poster said) the page that the coffee shops redirects you to, usually has instructions, and of course a place to put in a credit card. Once you do all that, then you can browse the internet without getting redirected to their little payment page. Its sort of confusing because you don't need a password to connect to their "open" network, but you do need one to browse any web pages. How you get the password differs from coffee shop to coffee shop, but usually they give it to you right inside your web browser once you give them your credit card number.
T-Mobile provides wireless for Starbucks (at least in a lot of places they do). So once you have an account with t-mobile, you can use it in any starbucks or "T-mobile hotspot"
Now this all sounds kind of complicated, but more and more these days, you can just walk into a place, find an open network (one without a lock next to it) and start browsing without being redirected or dealing with credit cards. Basically these places are providing free internet to try to attract customers.
Good luck
P.S. Wi-Fi eats up battery life. If you aren't going to be using it to browse web pages, you can go into settings, then Wi-Fi, and turn Wi-Fi off. This will save you battery life, but you have to remember to turn it back on. Even without Wi-Fi on, you can still browse the internet if you see a little "E" at the top of your screen. The E stands for the AT&Ts Edge network, which isn't as fast as Wi-Fi, but covers pretty much everywhere that your phone can get a signal.
Message was edited by: erik graham

Really dumb question re Quicktime Pro

Good morning . .
My Mac is running OS 10.4.9 and I have updated my Quicktime player to 7.3.1.
Purchased Quicktime PRO, registered successfully but still only get Quicktime Player when opening the program. Any suggestions where to find QT Pro? Sorry for the dumb question but thanks for your help.
Jon

There is no separate QT Pro application. Successfully registering Pro enables Pro features already present in the Player. Items that previosly mentioned Pro should now just list the feature without mentioning Pro.
Message was edited by: Dick Napoli

Dumb Question about multiple BSSIDs

This is probably a dumb question, but enquiring minds want to know...
When using Yosemite's built-in Wireless Diagnostics scan I see many unique WiFi BSSIDs (MAC addresses) associated with my Time Capsule: 5 for my Guest Network and 6 for my "main" network. I see that not all have the same 802.11 protocol, but not all have unique 802.11 protocols. Also I see my "main" network is the 802.11ac network.
So my questions are:
- Why are there so many different BSSIDs and how should I interpret them?
- Which of these BSSIDs are "relevant" that I should pay attention to?
Thanks,
Kevin

Why are there so many different BSSIDs and how should I interpret them?
The 5 GHz band on the main network is one unique BSSID
The 2.4 GHz band on the main network is one unique BSSID
If you have the Guest Network setup......
The 5 GHz band on the guest network is one unique BSSID
The 2.4 GHz band on the guest network is one unique BSSID
If you have multiple AirPort routers, repeat the information above for each router.
Which of these BSSIDs are "relevant" that I should pay attention to?
Personally, I pay no attention to this, but some users place great importance on this.
The BSSID tells you which AirPort.....if you have multiple AirPorts....and which band....2.4 GHz or 5 GHz.....that you are connected to at the current time....as well as whether you are connected to the "main" network, or the "guest" network.....if you have enabled the guest function.

Dumb question about user_sdo_geom_metadata DIMINFO entries

I'm sure that this is a dumb question!
I create a new entry in user_sdo_geom_metadata as follows...
INSERT INTO USER_SDO_GEOM_METADATA
VALUES ( 'PR_A', 'GEOM',
MDSYS.SDO_DIM_ARRAY(
MDSYS.SDO_DIM_ELEMENT('X',190000.0,640000.0, 0.05),
MDSYS.SDO_DIM_ELEMENT('Y',120000.0,680000.0, 0.05)
NULL );
But when I select the DIMINFO from the table...
SQL> select diminfo from user_sdo_geom_metadata a where table_name = 'PR_A';
DIMINFO(SDO_DIMNAME, SDO_LB, SDO_UB, SDO_TOLERANCE)
SDO_DIM_ARRAY(SDO_DIM_ELEMENT('X', 190000, 640000, 0), SDO_DIM_ELEMENT('Y', 1200
00, 680000, 0))
The sdo_dim_element and sdo_tolerance
elements show no decimal places.
Is this because I have not set some
display number format option in SQLPLUS
or for some other reason?
regards
Simon

Simon,
If you are using an old sqlplus client
(815) then you won't be able to see the decimal places in the diminfo object.
But if you hace a newer (816/817) sqlplus
client you should be able to see the decimal places.
If you are not seeing them in these clients
then there might be some format paramter set
to show numbers without decimals.
You can do a
show numformat
in sqlplus to see if there is any format set for that paramter.
null

Ridiculously dumb question about drawing in JPanel

Howdy everyone,
I gotta really stupid question that I cant figure out the answer to. How do I draw an image to a JPanel, when my class inherits from JFrame?
Thanks,
Rick

Ok,
Problem. The image isnt showing up in the Frame I set up for it. Heres my code. Im trying to get this image to show up in a scollable window. Can anyone tell what the problem with this code is??
JPanel imgPanel= new JPanel(){
protected void paintComponent(Graphics g){
super.paintComponent(g);
g.drawImage(getToolkit().createImage(imstr),imgw,imgh,this);
imgPanel.setVisible(true);
this.getContentPane().setLayout(new BorderLayout());
this.getContentPane().add(new JScrollPane(imgPanel));
this.setVisible(true);
Any ideas?
Thanks
Rick

A dumb question about kelvin and white balance in Lightroom

I keep reading a high kelvin number is cooler and a low number is warmer, but in light room, in the develope module, the lower number ( 3500 ) is blue, and a higher number, (7000) is very yellow. What am I missing?

Lee is essentially correct with his analysis but incorrect with the details. The Kelvin colour temperature scale is between Yellow and Blue, not Red and Blue as stated.
There's a lot of confusion about this, with many digital photographers missing the significance of the difference between cyan and blue, magenta and red etc.
To be fair, the printing industry has added to the confusion by traditionally calling printing inks Blue, Red and Yellow when they really are cyan, magenta and yellow.
Even Adobe can get it wrong. In the initial Lightroom beta release, the temperature scale had the colours Cyan at one end and Yellow at the other. I suggested it be changed to Blue to make it correct and less confusing which thankfully was implemented in the next update.
Despite decades of working with colour both in the darkroom and with Photoshop, I too struggle with the counter-intuitive approach of the colour temperature reading in Lightroom.
Essentially, if you shoot in light that is too blue, then you need to add Yellow. So the Kelvin number displayed in Lightroom isn't the 'Mired' correction or the amount of Yellow added, but a readout of the scene's original colour temperature before the Yellow correction.
This can be really useful. I use several different branded flash units with various reflectors and attachments. I recently ran a test, shooting a Macbeth colour checker with all the different combinations.
I then used the White Balance Selector (dropper) on the neutral 5 patch and wrote down the resulting colour temperature.
From that I could work out what filter corrections I needed to use on each flash and reflector to produce consistent daylight balance.
Most flashes seem to be around 6000ºK but I had variation between 5200ºK & 6400ºK with the combinations.

A very dumb question about sharing preview in an iPad

Hi, folks
I have to share some content I have made in some iPad devices. I am taking about a dozen of people, some of whom I don't even know.
To test all this, I have reloaded in Folio Builder the content with our shared user account (ie: not mine) and now I want to test this sharing with myself, to see that in my own account and my own iPad.
However, I see that this seems not to be possible. As fas as I have been reading posts here and there, each user has to start session with that shared account and then download the folio. Afterwards, they can restart with their own account and still see the folio, as it has been downloaded to their devices...
Is that right? I mean: is there no other way but sharing the account and password with every individual likely involved? That gives me the creeps, to be honest.
Thanking you in advance for all your patience
Gustavo (Posting from Madrid).

Yes, Bob I thought that was the way
But I am a bit dumb-stuck in this. The user... let's say [email protected] has shared it and I have received his e-mail in my iPad. I have my account, let's say [email protected]
How do I see / download it in the iPad?
I must be a bit overworked to see it, sorry if so.
Gustavo

Really easy question about DVDs

I am about to get a new 5g iPod, and I am excited about being able to watch videos on it. But I have a quick question, is it possible to rip DVDs(like you can with CDs) from iTunes?
Thanks

This article addresses your question:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302758

Really dumb question about defaultlistmodel

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