Reapply thermal paste and get more noise?

Hi guys, from what I read, reapplying thermal paste reduces the heat but makes the fans go on much faster.
For those who reapplyed it, does it go on too often or only when processor is used at a certain level (say, 50%)?
Thanks!

T9600 in a T500 isn't going to cause your laptop to melt down. I have a T9900 in my current T500, and it is working just as well as when i had the P8600.
These vacuum cooler are pretty much useless in these large thinkpads, and sometimes will cause other issues. Some of these external plug in fans can cause a path crossover between the directional flow of the cool intake air and the hot exhaust air, thus causing an area with stagnant air pocket, which means it will actually cause more harm than good.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

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MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

Hi all,
I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
- Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
- Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
- What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
- Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
- I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Vito

Hello V-MA!
I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
marek

Reapply thermal paste? Last gen black MacBook fans running.

Hi.
I have a black MacBook (MacBook4,1) that seems to get pretty hot sometimes. It happens even when I'm not running Illustrator, Aperture, or Photoshop. It can also happen when I visit a site without flash.
I had to replace the top case last year because someone poured water into the keyboard.
I'm thinking I may have ruptured or otherwise unseated the heatsinks, which may have displaced some of the thermal paste's contact with the heatsink. The computer was purchased in early 2008, so it's kind of old.
Would it benefit me to replace the thermal paste between the processor and the heatsink? How much of a pain is it to do that?

My computer is a bit older than yours and I have never seen that problem with this machine.
Have you checked Activity Monitor (Applications>Utilities) to see if any processes are using more than 30% of your CPU?
~Lyssa

MSI X58M IOH Heatsink - Reapplying Thermal Paste

Hey guys, I just got a MSI X58M, and although I haven't tested temperatures yet, I want to deal with this IOH issue right now.
First off, is the IOH the one with the fins and the ICH the one with the MSI logo?
What procedures should I use for taking off both of these heatsinks?
How should I clean the existing paste off, and how should I reapply the Noctua NT-H1 I have? More specifically, what materials do I need to clean off the heatsinks and what method should I use to reapply the thermal paste. Then, how do I reinstall the heatsink onto the IOH/ICH?
Thanks for your help!

Quote
I haven't tested temperatures yet, I want to deal with this IOH issue right now.
Yes, the heatsink with the fins is the IOH. The Logo'd heatsink is the ICH. Before you take everything apart, I would recommend you read this link, & then the other links listed within it, to read & learn 'how to' should you decide to go ahead with a redo.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129940.0

Thermal paste and mb replacement

has any one who reapplied the thermal paste tried to call apple to ask for a MB replacement(for getting rid of the whine)? would apple allow it?

The thermal paste issue is not considered a problem that needs repair. Thankfully, it does impact performance drastically, although one must ask why a company that prides itself on quality would allow a contracter to provide motherboards with CPU's floating in grease. I am guessing it was the rapid roll-out, and the fact that these "high end" machines are produced in mainland China, not Taiwan or other locations. I have a replaced logic board and a replaced battery. My laptop is significantly warped. I wont complain further.
My plea is for all of us to hold Apple to it's warranty. Thankfully, I puchased AppleCare, which obviously will be neeed. I hope for some sort of recall, and a dramatic focus on the next MacBook Pro that demonstrates correction of these problems. Having them built in mainland China is a profit move, not one for quality. Far better manufacturers exist in Taiwan. let's see what happens. If nothing does, I think that the free market will speak. Apple has not increased it's share of the laptop market. If they don't get this act together, I can say tha there will be one less purchase in the future. I really want Apple to succeed, but it won't happen if they cannot address their niche 3% market with a machine that is worth the "Apple Premium".

Thermal paste and cooling

Okay so I am making a switch to a new note book cpu (the t9600) and of course since it's a step up I am going to be a little overly cautious as far as cooling is concerned. I saw an article that said Intels stock thermal paste was actually better than theArtic Silvers. I am curious what goes into looking for a good thermal paste? Secondly, cooling systems for laptops. I hate those mats, but may decide to use one. I also saw a vacuum do hickey (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Notebook-Laptop-Vacuum-USB-Case-Cooling-Fan-Cooler-Pad-/220948357741?pt=LH_D... and I kind of like the concept and overall design but wonder if worth the money put into it or if it's just waste? On a more curious note with the fan. I want to get peoples opinions on that fan. It's more hypothetical from my stand point but if anybody has experiance I welcome it. That fan mentioned and my laptop the thinkpad t500. The t500 has to heat exhaust ports on the left hand corner one on the side and one on back. I think the cpu is pretty close to the one on the side. I am curious about airflow if adding two of those things assuming they are worth it (and despite severly reduced battery life)

T9600 in a T500 isn't going to cause your laptop to melt down. I have a T9900 in my current T500, and it is working just as well as when i had the P8600.
These vacuum cooler are pretty much useless in these large thinkpads, and sometimes will cause other issues. Some of these external plug in fans can cause a path crossover between the directional flow of the cool intake air and the hot exhaust air, thus causing an area with stagnant air pocket, which means it will actually cause more harm than good.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Macbook Pro running slower and making more noise.

Problem description:
Hey everyone, I have noticed that my macbook pro has been running slowly. Sometimes firefox freezes and never unfreezes and whenever I play videos my computer runs slower than usual. I have started turning off my laptop whenever it is not in use but it is not helping very much. Can anyone give me any advice. I have also provided my etrecheck report.
EtreCheck version: 2.0.11 (98)
Report generated November 10, 2014 at 12:24:28 AM EST
Hardware Information: ℹ️
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2010) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro7,1
1 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo CPU: 2-core
4 GB RAM Upgradeable
BANK 0/DIMM0
2 GB DDR3 1067 MHz ok
BANK 1/DIMM0
2 GB DDR3 1067 MHz ok
Bluetooth: Old - Handoff/Airdrop2 not supported
Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Video Information: ℹ️
NVIDIA GeForce 320M - VRAM: 256 MB
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ℹ️
OS X 10.9.5 (13F34) - Uptime: 5:34:13
Disk Information: ℹ️
ST1000LM024 HN-M101MBB disk0 : (1 TB)
S.M.A.R.T. Status: Verified
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
Super HDD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 999.35 GB (969.64 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-898
USB Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. Built-in iSight
Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Configuration files: ℹ️
/etc/hosts - Count: 20
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
/Applications/VMware View Client.app
[not loaded] com.vmware.kext.vmioplug.10.3.20 (10.3.20) Support
Launch Agents: ℹ️
[not loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[invalid?] com.adobe.SwitchBoard.plist Support
[loaded] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist Support
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
[loaded] com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist Support
[not loaded] jp.co.canon.Inkjet_Extended_Survey_Agent.plist Support
User Login Items: ℹ️
iTunesHelper Application (/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunesHelper.app)
Dropbox Application (/Applications/Dropbox.app)
Canon IJ Network Scanner Selector EX ApplicationHidden (/Applications/Canon Utilities/IJ Network Scanner Selector EX/Canon IJ Network Scanner Selector EX.app)
BitTorrent UNKNOWN (missing value)
uTorrent UNKNOWN (missing value)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
AdobeExManDetect: Version: AdobeExManDetect 1.1.0.0 - SDK 10.7 Support
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 15.0.0.189 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobeAAMDetect: Version: AdobeAAMDetect 1.0.0.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.09 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.09 - SDK 10.6 Support
Flash Player: Version: 15.0.0.189 - SDK 10.6 Support
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.3.9 - SDK 10.6 Support
Silverlight: Version: 5.1.20513.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
User Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
CitrixOnlineWebDeploymentPlugin: Version: 1.0.105 Support
ZoomUsPlugIn: Version: 2.0.28860.0927 - SDK 10.8 Support
Safari Extensions: ℹ️
Searchme
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
Flash Player Support
Time Machine: ℹ️
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
    100% firefox
      1% WindowServer
      0% Safari
      0% AppleSpell
      0% fontd
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
1.21 GB firefox
193 MB Safari
176 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
86 MB WindowServer
69 MB Dropbox
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
60 MB Free RAM
1.71 GB Active RAM
1.66 GB Inactive RAM
590 MB Wired RAM
789 MB Page-ins
35 MB Page-outs

Hi,
Maybe you should take a look at your Firefox add-ons and get rid of the ones you don't really need. Also, you have two torrent items mentioned in your report. Downloading torrents runs the risk of bringing in malware.
Another thing to do as maintenance is to start into Recovery -- holding down Command and R keys together while booting up -- and using Disk Utility (bottom of the box that appears) to Verify your disk and Repair disk permissions.
Regards.

Casio Brigade rebooting in the middle of calls and getting more frequent.

My Casio Brigade reboots in the middle of calls. It was usually preceded by a humming noise but it is happening more frequently and no longer hums just reboots. The battery is fine and has a normal life. The phone has never been dropped or wet (the Brigade is supposed to withstand both anyway). No, I do not have access to another phone so Verizon can tell me to reset it. I already reset and it didn't help. I programmed it again yesterday so it is up-to-date. Only reboots during calls (for now). Occasional dropped calls are expected but rebooting is not acceptable!
Can anyone help?

It is an awesome phone....if it worked right. I love the keyboard and the ruggedness of this phone. If only it wouldn't reboot in the middle of calls and/or Verizon had a solution that worked. It had this problem since day one and they had me reset it several times. It was OK for awhile. Then it started again but infrequently so I just lived with it. But now, it was every other call. I tried resetting it again several times and it is now out of warranty, of course. The last tech guy told me to uninstall all of the programs like navigator and backup assistant and THEN reset it. But it wouldn't let me remove backup assistant.
Anyway, I am back on my old phone that I only stopped using because of the poor sound quality. But, I guess I'll have to live with it until my contact for the other phone is up. ... NEXT JUNE. I believe this to be a software issue.. The phone itself is probably great. Good luck.
Oh, I also learned that it is more prudent to buy an unlocked dual-mode phone that accommodates both GSM and CDMA so that your phone will be usable if you decide to switch to another carrier. Verizon is about the only one using CDMA now. If you want a Verizon phone, get one that is "global ready". They have both modes. Hope it helps...

Print with pasta and getting error

hello, i have customs printing driver for pasta but as i print report i find an error,
APP-FND-00500: AFPPRN received a return code of failure from routine FDUPRN. Program exited with status 1
Cause: AFPPRN received a return code of failure from the OSD routine FDUPRN. Program exited with status 1.
The output .pdf has zero file size.
Any one help? .
And how can i locate which part cause this problems?
Thanks.

Please post the details of the application release, database version and OS.
Please see if these docs help.
How to investigate printing issues and work towards its resolution ? (Doc ID 297522.1)
APP-FND-00500: Afpprn when Using pdf2ps with Pasta (Doc ID 413402.1)
APP-FND-00500: AFPPRN ... An Error Occurred In Getting Printer Driver Information (Doc ID 867965.1)
How to Print PDF with UTF8 in R12? (Doc ID 778970.1)
11i : Pasta Pasta Printing Setup Test (Doc ID 264118.1)
Diagnostic Test Catalog for 12.1.3 (Doc ID 1083807.1) -- PASTA
Thanks,
Hussein

I'm on a MacBook pro .. how can FF be kept from crashing, freezing, being slow in general, and get more support for Plugins (which break every time I update)? Thanks in advance, I really do want to see FF regain the glory it once had!

I've been using Firefox since version 1 and it's always been my #1 web browser of choice. Since version 4, Firefox has become my #3 browser of choice, behind Safari & Chrome. I would like FF to go back to being #1, because frankly FF 4 & FF 5 have been a royal pain in the a$$.
Since FF 4, my SEO for Firefox plugin has not worked properly. Since FF 5, the Google Toolbar has not worked ... probably soon to have a fix, I'm sure.

Poetsave wrote:
I just bought my first Mac, Macbook Pro 15in 2.53GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB (two 2GB SO-DIMMs) of 1066MHz DDR3 SDRAM, 320GB Serial ATA; 5400 rpm.
I installed XP of a disk I had then used a Vista upgrade disk i had to install Vista. I noticed quickly that it was a 32bit version since it only recognized 3gb ram. I have been trolling the forums here and still have yet to get a straight answer on how to install vista 64 and have it actually work. So when what you are saying is I need a Mac Pro disk? Not the disk that came with my Macbook Pro to install all the drivers I need?
James
So it really depends. If you have an "early 2008" MBP as follows:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: MacBook Pro
Model Identifier: MacBookPro4,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2.6 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 6 MB
Memory: 4 GB
Bus Speed: 800 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MBP41.00C1.B00
SMC Version: 1.27f1
Serial Number: xxxxxxxxxxx
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State: Enabled
Then the disk from an equivalent Mac Pro (needs to be of similar vintage) may help you. But if you have once of the newer models ("late 2008") this has an nVidia chipset in it and the drivers for that may not be on the Mac Pro.
You'll need 64bit drivers for the nVidia chipset for this to work.
A side note is that the EFI implementation on the "Early 2008" MPB might well be 32 bit, so it's debatable if you get the full advantage of 64bit Vista in terms of performance. It worked for me, but YMMV. In any case when Windows 7 ships, my Macs will mostly be in "Legacy" mode.
-- Nick

I lifted my heatsink, do I need to reapply thermal paste?

Hi evrybody.
So I bought a used Sawtooth about a week ago, and long story short the mobo might have been fried in an experiment. While the computer was down I took the CPU off the mobo to smell if it's fried as well. Then I took off the heat sink to check it out. So like my title says, do I have to re apply the paste?

Thanks.

APIC, and getting more IRQs

Hi everybody!
I know that this issue has been mentioned before in the forums, but I can't seem to get my Windows XP to take advantage of the APIC features. I would like to do this since XP has decided that IRQ5 is to be used for both my new video card and the nForce onboard audio!
I have read this thread and gone through the procedure on this thread thread but I still only get 15 IRQs. (If you don't want to read the links basically it says to reinstall XP, press F5 when it prompts you to press F6 for third-party drivers, and then choose APCI Uniprocessor PC form the menu. Also the menu is confusing since it only shows two lines at a time but actually you can go up and down thru about ten different choices...tricky)
I am not giving up so easily, becuase I know I can get this to happen!
Right now I have the following settings:
PNP OS: Yes
Reset ESCD: Enables
APIC: Enabled
APIC Mode: 1.4
I think I will switch to Standard PC in Device Manager and THEN try to reinstall XP with the F5 trick...
Wish me luck!

HI again...well it hasn't been too long since my last post and I got the IRQs! For some reason my computer was already listed as an ACPI Compliant system in Device Manager, so I changed that to Standard PC and rebooted. Well, that was ugly because it re-found ALL my hardware (I'm talking like the keyboard and floppy controller.)
BUT I just cancelled out of installing any new drivers and shut the thing down normally, THEN I went into the BIOS and loaded the Standard defaults, except I upped the FSB to 133 and enabled boot from CD-ROM.
I booted off the XP CD and pressed F5 when the "Press F6..." message pops up, and I chose "ACPI Uniprocessor PC" from the list. The reinstall went okay and now i have 22 IRQs. Though for some reason the system is still sharing IRQ 20 between the NVidia nForce MCP Audio Processing Unit and the Standard OpenHCP USB Host Controller. Well whatever, what really matters is that there's much less sharing going on!
Of course I may discover that I hate the APIC features, but at least I know how to switch back and forth (relatively) painlessly....except for the 30MB to download from Windows Update...ugh!

How can I successfully reapply the thermal paste in my MacBook Pro? (2008)

I'm having issues with keeping my computer cool, mainly while playing games like SC2 that require a good amount of power. I've downloaded fan control apps, bought cooling pads (usb powered) and still no luck in cooling this thing down. I recently learned that Apple for some reason applies the thermal paste too thick, which can cause the computers to be a lot hotter than they should be.
I'm not worried about voiding warranty, seeing as I don't even have a warranty. I've already opened it up to upgrade the ram and the hard drive so I know my way around inside there and have the stuff I need in order to do it properly.
What I need to know is where I can get the thermal paste, what kind I need, how it needs to be applied and with what (as well as how to get the old paste off), the steps I need to take in order to get to where this paste is even at inside the computer...etc.
If there's anyone who's already successfully pulled this off, lemme know how you did it and if it helped any. I've read there've been significant temp drops since reapplying it in a lot of these pros, so I'm just interested.

Hi
I’ve yet to remove the heatsinks of the CPU and GPU on my MBP. But I’ve replaced CPU and GPU heatsinks on my PC many times, so hopefully you’ll find my suggestions helpful.
1st use the laptop for a bit to get both the CPU and GPU warmed up so it will be easier to remove the heatsinks.
Remove the back cover and run your hands over the back side of the metal cover few time to get ride of any static charge that might be there (or any unprinted metal surface will do).
Remove the screws and heatsink one at a time. You might find the thermal past dried up (happens when company used cheap past and after computer is used for few years). Use tissues to wipe the past off both cores and heasinks.
You can also buy thermal past remover and clearer such as this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-ArctiClean-Material-Purifier/dp/B000BKP306 /ref=pdbxgy_computers_textb
I normally use Arctic Silver Thermal Paste, I found it's the best past around, and everybody I know are happy with it.
There are two ways to apply the past. If your CPU is a Core2Duo, than you can just put a little bit on the center and press down with the heatsink. This is because the 2 cores on the CPU are located near the center of the processor so it does not matter if the edges are not covered with past.
Or if you want to play safe, you can cover the enter CPU with an even thin lay of past using a flat plastic card.
When it comes to thermal past, less is more, you only want little bit to cover up the metal cover on the processor. I say no more than 0.5 mm thick.
Cover the entire GPU with past as well, I’m not sure if the RAMs on your graphic card are cooled by the heatsinks. If they are, you might need some thermal pads for them.
You’ll find the whole process quite easy as long as you take your time. You can found lots of info on this with Google and Youtube.
Good luck and don’t forget to give the heatsinks a clean with a can of compassed air before you put them back on.

Laptop doesn't turn on after re-assembly and replacing thermal paste. Please help!

Hi,
I hope anyone can help me. I took apart my laptop HP HDX16 to replace thermal paste and clean up the fan. I did everything very carefully as showed in manual. I cleaned the old paste and pads off and replaced thermal paste but not the pads as someone in the store suggested that there is no need for putting pads and that the thermal compound is enough to have it on there. I left only one pad on the heat sink in place where it services Northbridge as it was in good condition. On the Northbridge itself I put thermal compound as well as on the GPU and CPU. I put back every screw and connected each cable as it was before (I am pretty sure about it). I was quite happy with my job but after I tried to turn the computer on it wouldn't start at all. Did I do something wrong? Please help me because I don't have any idea what to do now.

I am a little confused here, it sounds like you removed all the thermal pads except for one, if this is so, you need to put all the thermal pads back in place.
Anyways aside from that, if you plug the adapter in you will have a steady light where it plugs into the laptop. The light will always be on whether the machine is booted up or not.
If you don't have a steady light then you need to check the DC receptor where it plugs into the MoBo. Sometimes a cable may look like it's fully seated, but isn't. It still will boot up with the battery in place even if the DC jack plug is not correctly seated.
Check the small ribbon cable on the power button board where it connects into the MoBo.
Check that the processor is correctly aligned with it's key and that the locking mechanism is fully locked.
Make sure the RAM is seated correctly.
If these suggestions sound obvious, I have to start some where.
The problem here is that only you can help your self because you disassembled you machine, I can only make suggestions as what you may have missed and obviously something was missed.
If your thinking that you incorrectly applied the thermal paste, then that's not the problem. Even if there were no thermal pads or paste in place, the machine would still boot up, but it would heat up very quickly.
If the fan plug was plugged in incorrectly you would get a message in the BIOS upon boot up saying that the fan has a problem and it would shut down, but it sound like it's not even getting that far.
There is also a secondary fan that is used to cool the hard drive bays, check that plug as well. You may not get a BIOS message if this fan is not plugged in.
Here is the HP Media Services Library, you may find it helpful. Make sure you're signed in before clicking on the link.
http://h20574.www2.hp.com/default.htm?lang=en&cc=US&hpappid=psml
If you need help with the library, post again, give the video page time to load, the small video screen may stay black for a little while.

Reapply thermal paste and get more noise?

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