Rebel t3i Flash output settings

I have a new rebel t3i when i set the flash to manual the flash output level for the built in flash will not go higher than 1/4 power. it will go lower down to 1/128 power but not higher than 1/4. I contacted canon and they replied back that they do not know. I sent a second e-mail and that person said that is the way it works. I don't beleive these two people really know, and all they do is answer e-mails. Somebody must know why this happens. Any help would be appreciated.

I think you're mis interpreting the manual. From reading the t21 & t41 as well as the 7D manual you don't have the ability to set the power output of the built in flash. You do have that available on the Canon Speedlights (ad on flash units) which are specified as fully compatible with your camera. .
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Similar Messages

EOS Rebel T3i Flash

Hi I have a EOS Rebel T3i. My flash will come up but doesn't work, how do i fix this?

"t doesn't flash when we need it either. I've tried basically everything."
Except cleaning the pin which tells the camera the flash is up.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Canon Rebel T3i flash error

I am on my second Canon Rebel T3i. Out of the blue I get the Err 05 that the flash can not be raised. I turn it off and back on like it says but that doesn't help. Same thing happened with my first one only a month after I had it. This camera is less than a year old and doing this. Why? Do I have to send it away to be fixed?

There was an issue where the camera thinks an external flash is connected. You can check under the metal brackets where a shoe-bracket flash would go to see if the little button is being pushed down and blow some compressed air over it. If that doesn't help, you'll probably need to send it in for a defective flash release.
Although I do work for the Geek Squad, all comments and opinions are my own.

Best settings for Flash output PREL 8

Hi all,
I apologize if this is a repeat question, but I've spent a couple of hours already today trying to find the answer and to no avail.
Here's what's happening: once completed, my creative agency sends me the file (mov format...details below) and I export it to flash (see settings below). When I export to flash video, all the white text on the black screen is fuzzy and borderline illegible, yet the rest of the video is fine. Any idea why this is happening?
Here's the details:
mov file settings:
exported in Apple Compressor
MPEG-4 format
ISMA Profile: Improved
Frame rate: 29.97
Key Frame: 30
Bit Rate: High VBR
Frame size: 720 x 300
Pixel aspect: 1.000 square
Fields: Progressive
Retiming: (Best) High qual. motion compensated
Resize filter: Best (Motion comp)
Adaptive details: off
Antialias: 0
Detail: 0
Audio: AAC stereo
48 kHz
Sample rate: 44.100
Bit rate: 160
Flash output settings:
format: flv
codec: sorenson spark
frame rate: same as source
size:700 by 300
bitrate encoding:cbr
bitrate: 4,000
mpeg layer III - stero - 96 kps
system:
Premier elements 8
xp sp3
intel core 2 dup cpu e8400 @ 3ghz
2gb ram
2x7200 raid HD; 1 with program files, 1 with source/project files
page file 4000/9000.
Many thanks for your help
Jeff

Do you have any control over the format that your agency is sending the files to you in? An MP4 is one of the more challenging formats for Premiere Elements to work with.
You don't say which project settings you're using in Premiere Elements to work with these files -- but the combination of that and your file format could by why you're getting such mediocre results.
If they can send you MOVs using the DV codec rather than the H.264 codec, that would be a good start. You should be able to get great results editing a DV file in Premiere Elements project set up for DV.
I'm not sure why you're outputting your FLV file at those strange dimensions (700x300), but that could also account for your blurriness, since you've down-rezzing the file to a lower resolution. Are these the specs your agency wants your video at?
Finally, how are you judging the quality of your FLV files? What are you playing them on and are you looking at them at 100% actual size or are you looking at them oversized or, worse, at full-screen on your computer? This too can affect your results.

Recommendation for correct wide angle lens and flash for real estate photos for Canon Rebel T3i?

Hi I'm new to the forum. I always hire out a professional photog for my real estate photos however have thought that with the amount that I pay them, I could buy my own wide angle lens to do on my own.
Any recommendations for what wide angle lens and flash to buy?
Here are some examples of the work they have done in the past for me:
Any advice would be much appreciated. I enjoy amateur photography with my family and portraits but am hoping to be able to do more of my own work on my listings. Thanks!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Your samples look like incredibility simple images to do. I also suspect little artificial light was added. Possibly just a bounce off the ceiling.
Since you already have a Rebel T3i, I would get the Canon 430 EX, and just one. But be aware it will likely not provide equal coverage for a 10-22mm lens. Ten millimeters is pretty wide even on a T3i. Bouncing off the ceiling will help this.
Some ceilings may not be good for bounce either.
Give it a go and you will learn what works and what not. But the old saying, KISS, applies. You will learn!
Photshop and/or Lightroom are great additions. They both have learning curves and PS a very long learning curve.
Still think your photographer is overpaid?
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

My Rebel T3i overexposes in all automatic settings?

When I shoot in automatic setting on my Rebel T3i it overexposes all my shots? What can I do about that?

There can be a couple of reasons for this.
1) In the semi-automatic modes (Program, Tv, and Av) the camera has a feature called "Exposure Compensation". There's a button on the rear of the camera with [Av +/-] on it. This allows you to tell the camera that you want it to exposure the shot brighter or darker than the exposure that the camera would otherwise have selected based on metering.
Exposure compensation has no effect when shooting Manual because when doing Manual, the exposure indicator in the viewfinder (or the rear of the camera) will indicate the "0" position (center position) if your exposure matches what the light meter reads. If you wanted to over-expose or under-expose when shooting manual, you'd just adjust the exposure so the exposure indicator reads higher or lower.
Here's a video demonstrating how to adjust your exposure compensation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBOo1aOb3IE
2) It can also be the result of the selected metering method and the subject. The camera has three metering methods... "Evaluative" metering is the default and uses the the full 63 zone metering system. "Center weighted" also uses the entire 63 zone metering system EXCEPT it gives the greatest weight to the meter readings detected in the central area (but not the center point) of the display. Finally there's "Spot" metering. This does not use the full 63 zone metering system and instead just meters the shot based on the light detect in in the very center of the display.
The meter is a "reflected" light meter. It cannot tell how much light is actually falling on a subject... it can only detect the light that reflects off the subject and into the camera. If a subject is dressed completely in black and there's a black background, then the camera detects very little reflection. This makes the camera believe there is not enough light so it will increase the exposure. It "presumes" the image, if thought of as a black and white image, should render as a middle-gray tone. This causes the camera to over-expose the blacks and anything in the image that was not actually black will be strongly over-exposed.
The reverse is also true... take a photo of a subject wearing white on a white snowy background and the camera, thinking the typical scene rendered in black and white should be a middle-gray will think there's too much light. It will compensate by decreasing the exposure and that will cause everything that wasn't actually "white" to be extremely dark and under-exposed.
Hand-held light meters (meters not built into cameras) have a sensor that you simply hold in the very light where your subject is located and it measure the light falling on that point. Those meters detect the true light... not just the light being reflected by the subject. They are extremely accurate -- just not nearly as convenient as the meter built into your camera.
Usually an external hand-held light meter is not necessary... the reflected meter built into the camera is fine as long as YOU remember that very black scenes and subjects tend to over-expose and very white scenes and subjects tend to under-expose. And that's one key reason why you'd actually want to use your camera's exposure compenation.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Editing Canon Rebel T3i files in FCP 5

I'm a newbie to FCP and shoot videos with a Canon Rebel T3i. Obviously, I can copy the .mov files from the SD card to my Mac and edit in Final Cut Pro 5, but it's a bear (slow rendering time and whatnot) and I'm never impressed with the video quality output once I'm done rendering. Specially, the files I am trying to work with now are in 1280x720 format, 60 fps.
Here are some questions/scenarios:
1. Can I import my video files straight from my SD card into Final Cut Pro 5 (seeing as I only have Log and Capture and not Log and Transfer)?
2. Can I use Compressor or some other program to convert my files to a more FCP-friendly file?
3. What setting must I use in FCP to import my HD files and export them as HD files?
Thanks!

1. Yes, but you won't be happy working with it.
2. Yes, and that would be whatever HD editing codec you have in your QT library…hopefully Pro Res 422.
3. Some flavor of 720p60. (I don't have 5.1, so I can't be more specific.) The sequence settings should be Frame size: 1280X720 frame size, Pixel AR: square, Field Dominance: None.
I'd use a card reader and copy everything to a media drive. Then transcode (MPEG STreamclip is faster than Compressor). Then import.
Good luck.
Russ

New Rebel t3i

I just purchased a Rebel t3i from amazon and it will be here around the end of the month. I was wondering if there was anything I need to know about the camera or dSLR's in general, because this is my first digital camera since a point-and-shoot Kodak in 2007.

Your manual is your friend & because this was wrote a few years ago some may not apply in the same way due to control differences. I have no idea whethor or not my daughter took the time to learn it all but she gets GREAT images with it still, and amaxingly the original batteries still give good service.
Camera Instruction summary.
These are in order of importance, once you have one so that you can usually do it without thinking or having the manual close by, then start on the next one.
DON’T USE “Auto” mode, it makes poor choices in camera settings, USE THE “P” mode (program) until you have learned the next few things.
You need to learn how to run through the menu system, but not that often, but it isn’t that difficult.
First setting to learn is “exposure compensation” which you use to change how over or under exposed you want a picture to look after taking it at the base setting you started with. Once you take a photo look at the LCD, (or better yet the Histogram on the LCD) which you can set to always display after each shot. If it’s overexposed (washed out, too bright etc) then you need to reduce the exposure & shoot another shot. If it’s too dark, then you need to set the exposure for a brighter image. The needle moves to the left for less exposure, & to the right for a brighter exposure.
Next “Flash Exposure Compensation” which is the same as above but needed when using the flash. Generally that camera ALWAYS needs some extra help with a setting to the right of about 1 or higher.
Auto Focus point selection. I generally prefer to use just the centre point, focus, and then reframe rather than all of the points possible, but it’s good to learn how to change it & decide what you like.
ONE SHOT / AI SERVO. You can change how the AF works, in ONE SHOT it assumes that you are shooting a stationary target, and once the AF locks onto the target it doesn’t change if the target moves. You see the little red light which indicated focus lock & where.
AI SERVO is for things which keep moving, and the AF tracks the movement, but you will not see the red dot light up. YOU CAN USE THIS ALL THE TIME, but it isn’t as useful for reframing as the focus point may not work as well as the ONE SHOT mode.
YOU can learn this but don’t worry about it for now, just get an idea of what I am talking about.
Tv mode = Time Value, or SHUTTER SPEED, important for fast moving things, a fast shutter speed freezes what otherwise would have motion blur. Needs good light to work properly, the brighter the better.
Av mode = Apetrure value, which is a lens setting that is hard to explain in simple terms but has the following effect. Apertures are measured in “stops” and the reference to lenses is that a “fast” lens will have a lower F stop number. F2.8 is faster than F 4.0 etc.
This becomes important for 2 reasons, low light, or to control Depth Of Field (DOF) which is an important thing in certain uses. The DOF at F 2.8 is about half of what it would be at F 4.0, therefore things that are a bit closer & a bit farther than where you lock the focus on will be out of focus, and as they get closer or further from the focal point they become just a blur. This is VERY useful where you only want the main object in the photo to be what draws your attention, leaving most everything else out of focus. This type of FAST refers to the fact that you can use a fast shutter speed, the lens is letting lots of light
Flash photos usually force a camera to use a wide open aperture, so indoor shots have a shallow DOF, but you might not notice it at print size, but blown up on a computer screen it shows.
The original camera language will always refer to “stops” which is a ratio thing, and when a camera has a P mode it uses a pre wrote internal program to pick both the Tv & Av.
Stops work like this Every lens has a F value which relates to how much light can pass through it at the widest F stop (faster lenses cost big bucks, hard to build, require top quality lens glass & are larger in diameter). If you close a lens by 1 stop you must select a slower shutter speed to make up for there being exactly ½ the light. An example (numbers only to help understand it)
If a lens was at F2.8 and according to the cameras light meter you need a shutter speed of 1/500 second then a change to F 4.0 requires 1/250 second.
WHY DOES IT MATTER???? The rule of photography is to always keep shutter speed higher than lens length when hand holding to eliminate blur caused by our motion of pressing the shutter, jitters etc. The 20D is known as a “CROP” body, and that means that lens length in it’s case is 1.6 times longer than the numbers (mm) so the 18-200 lens acts like a 28-320 mm lens, so the slowest shutter speed should exceed 1/320 sec when zoomed to the max.
CAMERA CONTROLS The ON / OFF switch can be left on all the time, it has a setting to put it into sleep mode that you can change using the menu, but it should be OK the way I have it set. A simple touch of the shutter button wakes it up instantly & it’s ready to shoot immediately.
IF at some time you can’t change a setting such as Exposure Compensation etc MAKE SURE the On / Off switch is fully on, It can still take photos with it a bit less than in the fully on position, but won’t allow changes. I HAVE RUN INTO THIS MORE THAN ONCE, AND WAS TOTALLY BAFFLED for a while, even the second & third time due to how seldom it happens. .
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Problems with Flash output using Safari

Hi All,
does anyone know the solution to getting the flash output to work with safari? The project plays properly on Firefox and Chrome. On safari, my custom menus come up just the same as on the DVD version of the project, but the flash videos do not play - just a grey screen. Interestingly, the duration of the clips is set correctly in the player, it just doesn't start the video. The flash files play correctly when loaded directly into Adobe flash player, so I am assuming there is a compatibility issue with the generated XML files or index.html. The code inside the index.html seems very old and refereences macromedia.com and a windows .CAB file. I have shortened the file names and eliminated any offending characters (all are in the form "Chapter_1").
Anyway, this is stopping me delivering a project on USB stick for a client - seems to be a common issue when searching the web, but no solutions. Any assistance or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I have the full CC (2014), but still have Encore CS6 installed for DVD production.
Regards,
Mark

I read the thread you mentioned and all others relating to this issue - seems to be a number of people having the same issue over the last 3 years, but none have posted a successful conclusion. I did see the post about strange characters in file names causing issues in the XML - I did also look at this and change all my content file names to innocuous "Chapter_X" & etc. The paths to the "Sources" directory are all relative and the project works correctly on Chrome and Firefox. Just safari is not working. Agree, it could be permissions, but I have checked all security settings and the Abobe Flash player (with is called up by the script to display the videos in the browser) is specifically permitted to "Allow Always" in the security settings. I can't help thinking there is a problem with the generated XML that safari is not behaving correctly - it wouldnt be the first time that Apple doest things using their interpretation of a standard.
However, after all that, the generated code from Encore doesn't result in a working local project that I can send to a client and expect to work.

Need Info On Flash Output From Encore CS6

I have CC 2014 and I normally produce videos for YouTube and DVD for my clients.
I have no idea what Flash is, but I see that I can create a Flash version of a DVD project that plays just like a DVD. Will someone point me in the right direction on how to use this feature? How can it be put on a website? How does a Flash project work in Muse?
Is there a difference between a Flash created from Encore and a Flash project created in Adobe Flash Professional (which I also have)?
It would be nice to put a Flash video on my website. How is this done? What do I need?
How can I offer a Flash version of a DVD for my client? How can my client use a Flash video and what do they need to place it in a website?

Sorry; I did not see this, and I don't always get into this "CS6 and CC" subforum.
I have no idea what Flash is, but I see that I can create a Flash version of a DVD project that plays just like a DVD. Will someone point me in the right direction on how to use this feature? How can it be put on a website? How does a Flash project work in Muse?
Don't know about Muse.
First, it is simple. Second, it has quirks and these can undo how simple it is!
Go here, and try it:
Encore Help | Exporting projects to Flash format
Fundamentally, on the build tab in Encore, you just change the output format to Flash, and the output will change to Flash swf. There are limitations and some advantages regarding things like subtitles, highlight bit depth and such. Read the help file information I linked to. Each version of Encore (CS4, CS5, CS6) added options, primarily regarding modification of the templates and player controls.
Creating this in Flash Pro would take you forever. Basically, Encore creates a swf player that plays the video content in the form of flv files, creates the various screens as still images, and manages their linkages.
Do not stream as your first attempts; in the "Flash Video File" buttons at the bottom of the build screen, use the "Keep With Flash SWF" option.
If you did not install "templates" when you installed the Encore library, don't worry about it yet, but you won't have any templates under Flash options.
FLV/F4V are on their way out, but Encore still happily creates them. It does not matter what your source file is, or the size/type of output file, it all takes about the same about of time to transcode. So pick what you really want. I don't recall now if I successfully tested it, but there is no preset for 1080; but you can customize and use it. (F4V uses H.264).
Everything you need is in the output directory. Open the "index.html" file and it plays in a web browser. You can do it on your local hard drvie, from a usb flash drive, or on the web.
BUT flash security settings can be a bear, and I assume some of the Mac issues for this are due to lack of flash support.
Let us know how it goes.

No prompt to update when Flash Player Settings Manager is set to check for updates automatically

My understading of http://forums.adobe.com/message/3562892#3562892 (March 2011) is that when an outdated version of the Player is used on Windows, the prompt to update should occur after the next restart of the operating system.
So, when http://www.adobe.com/software/flash/about/ in Safari for Windows shows an outdated version 10.x of the Player:
I restart Windows
I log on
I wait a few minutes.
Problem
Usually, no matter how long I wait, there is no prompt to update; Flash Player Settings Manager continues to show an outdated plug-in alongside a greater version of the ActiveX item.
I see this problem with multiple computers running Windows XP and Windows 7.
Any suggestions?

Flash Player checks for updates every 7 days. The NCP doesn’t change this. Where the user in that post is getting confused is that only after Flash Player detected an update (on average 3.5 days after a new version is released), the dialog will appear after a restart.
Chris

Sound Control Panel doesn't retain output settings.

Since updating to 10.6.2, I've discovered that, after starting up or a reboot, the output settings revert to "Internal Speakers/Built-in Output." This is a pain, since I rely on a external speaker system (and so use the "Line Out/Built-in Line Output" setting).
I have tried resetting PRAM and re-installing 10.6.2 using the Combo updater, all to no avail.
Has anyone experienced this and/or solved it?
Many thanks in advance.

delete all files in /Library/preferences/audio (that's the Library at the top level of the hard drive) and restart. sound settings should retain on restarts after that.

Is there a fix for Mountain Lion audio output settings after the laptop goes to sleep and wakes back up?

Mac Book Pro running Mountain Lion OS X 10.8.5 after the notebook sleeps audio and video does work (for example on YouTube). I have been able to temporarily work around this by toggling the settings on Built-in Output in Audio Midi Setup, Audio window between 2ch-20bit Integer and 2ch-24bit Integer. But this is a temporary fix until the laptop sleeps again.
When it's not working, all system sounds (emails "dings", delete file "swish", etc.) are silenced, and video playbacks on YouTube and elsewhere freeze and have no audio until the Audio Output settings are toggled then they all immediately start working.
Has anyone encountered the same? Have a long term fix for this annoyance?
I cannot upgrade the OS to 10.9 Mavericks yet because of a corporate policy - there is some conflict with 10.9 and our corporate VPN connection.

Apple support article:
Startup Grey Screen
You can try to check your hard drive.
Apple Hardware Test doesn't catch everything, so even if it doesn't find a problem, you could have one.
Apple Hardware Test

Help please with output settings in Save For Web Photoshop CS4

I am new to CS4 Photoshop so have been watching tutorials on Lynda.com. According to that tutorial I should have the ability to save a photo as an image in the Output Settings dialog box. The only options my panel gives me are:
HTML
Slices
Background
Saving Files
I don't have the option for Images Only or for HTML & Images. Are these two hidden somewhere?
I have been experimenting with Save For Web, but when I click on Save I get a panel that lists all the images saved in a folder named "Photos" but I cannot find in that folder any of the images that I optimized and saved for the web. Where are they to be found? Images that show up in Bridge are not my optimized images either.I would be grateful for some assistance with this.

Those settings, HTML, Slices, etc, are the Output Settings you don't normally need to change aonything in there.
Leave it at default and you will just save a version of the image stripped of unnecessary data and reduced to the degree you specified next to the file format choice.
When you press Save in the SfW interface it calls up a Windows OS Save dialog box showing the last used location.
The destination can be changed in the normal way. The Images you already saved will be in the the location that was in that dialog when you saved them.
There is a lot more information in the help pages on this topic! (Hint.)

Can't Left Click in Flash Player Settings Panel - HELP PLEASE

Hi and thanks for taking the time to read this. Believe me it is a fraction of the time I have wasted trying to resolve this issue.
Basic problem is:
I am trying to stream to Ustream but since downloading AFP11 for my Windows PC when I open the Flash Player Settings panel i can't left click on anything. It is set to deny but I can't click allow, or close or any of the icons.
Right click does work.
I have followed countless instructions in other forums from other posts that have encountered the problem on Mac and older versions of AFP but as yet none of the solutions have proven succesul.
I have tried all of the following but nothing has resolved the problem.
1. Uninstall and reinstall Adobe Flash Player (although this is impossible using Google Chrome) and restart computer.
2. Unistall flash and install older version. (made no difference on Google Chrome and on IE8 had no flash whatsoever).
5. Uninstall older AFP and reinstall AFP11.
4. Uninstall Google Chrome and restart computer.
5. Uninstall QuickTime (I got this off http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f10/flash-player-not-working-properly-please-help-1 61552.html) and restart computer
6. Last resort use keyboard shortcuts such as tab, enter and ctrl+arrows. This either didn't highlight the panel at all or if it did I still couln't select allow, or close the panel itself so was no help either.
So now I'm back to square one.
Now here's a really bizarre thing... I am using a shared laptop computer and if I use my colleagues profile where she hasn't updated her AFP to Adobe Flash Player 11 the settings panel is responding just fine. IT'S THE SAME PC!
I know I am alone with this problem but someone out there has an answer. If you can help please let me know how to fix this problem where I can't left click in the Adobe Flash Player settings panel.and I will be eternily grateful.
many thanks
nik

OK the amount I hate myself right now is more than a fat guy's self loathing for raiding the fridge at 2am for Pizza but less than an armed robber who's accidentally shot a pregnant woman in the stomach during a shootout. but not much less.
So after I had miraculously got the Flash Player Setting Panel to work again, (after deleting QuickTime and leaving the window open for abut an hour it just started working again) I then got enticed into downloading the ustream producer software.
While downloading it informed me that it would only work with QuickTime.
Stupidly and Optimistically hoping it would remove the need to use flash player altogether I downloaded and installed both.
I then discovered to my horror that Ustream producer is not a patch on Vidbalster and that it was not capable of delivering the same level of broadcast.
I then opened the flash player settings panel on ustream and... the problem has returned!
This means I am 99% sure that QuickTime IS the cause of the problem so I have uninstalled QT off the PC. I have also uninstalled Ustream Producer.
The thing is though, now no matter how many times I restart, or uninstall and reinstall Adobe, or Google Chrome, I am once again UNABLE TO LEFT CLICK IN THE FLASH PLAYER SETTINGS PANEL. AAAARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!
What did I do? I fixed it and f***ing broke it again!
Now it properly will not come back to life! the problem is not solved and i urgently need help.
Why does Adobe Flash Player Settings Panel and Apple QuickTime hate each other so much that they've got to ruin my life?
Help forum PLEASE!
Regards,
nik

Rebel t3i Flash output settings

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for